16:39 this is what i missed!!!!! I put the vents back on and still had air leaking out the bottom. Now I know what I have to work on to get the vent to seal a little better. Some time ago, I had a shop change out my heater core and noticed that they had forgotten to put on the left side phillips screw and the entire center piece was loose. Once I got this piece seated properly, I had better air supply to the vents. Thank you again for your help!!
Thank you so much good sir I wouldn't have done it without your video! I undertook the fix today and it took me close to 6 hours from start to finish. The big plastic thing in front of the blend doors was the worst technical thing I had to deal with in my whole life. Taking off the two bloody screws and putting them back on took more than an hour alone. But anyway, it was all worth it! I can feel the heat wave inside my golf mk4 again! Thanks again and best wishes!
thank you so much for wasting time making this video. everything was very well explained and will help me to solve my problem. the most complete and demonstrative video I found. MANY CONGRATULATIONS and much success in your life. greetings from Portugal
I helped a good friend do this today, thank you so much for a great video and information on it. Here a couple helpful tips on what we did slightly different. 1. We didn’t remove the upper duct section. 2. We remove just the right side metal brace and the lower duct section came out pretty easily. 3. We used DPS Blend Door Plugs to install into the holes, applied a few dabs of sealant around the outside edge and they worked great! Thank you again!!
@@FireBeamgoing in I thought this would be a nightmare but I did it in less than 3 hours start to finish. Cutting a hole wouldn't really get the job done any quicker. The worst part is disassembly of all the trim
This is obviously hard-earned information. Thank you so much for sharing and also giving us a lot of the context and nuances to consider before starting the job. I am really looking forward to having a car that can heat much better this winter
Thanks for the sweet breakdown. Instead of fully removing the blend door access panel fully from underneath the housing, I found that simply wedging it as low as I could, allowed me access to the vents to seal them. Trying to wedge out that panel was just ridiculously hard, so I left it in place. But make sure you have all the cables and whatnot clear when you reinstall: When I was hooking up my radio, I realized I'd accidentally got the antenna cable behind the panel when I put it back in place (which explains why it was hard to seat! lolol)
Thank you for this video; very helpful. I experienced the foam coming through all the vents on my 2003 Jetta so I knew I had a blend door issue. I went to the dealer who gave me a $4,000 quote to do the job with no guarantee that it would work or that they may break some parts during the process. Even though the car is in perfect condition even after 21 years and 74k miles, the cost to repair would be greater than the value. I decided to do the project myself. It took about 15 hours from start to finish. I took pictures of everything and labelled every screw. Every part was laid out on a sheet of plywood and documented. The hardest part was extracting the black box in front of the blend doors; had to remove the 13mm bolts to get the added room to wiggle it out. For the blend doors, I used the heavy duty end foil tape with the plastic backing - wrapping the blend doors was surprisingly easy. Putting it back together was just as tedious to ensure that the trim gaps all lined up. The two screws to secure the black box could not be reinstalled; I could not get access as easily but I made sure the box was in there snug with the clips. One thing to watch out for is where the radio harness comes out - if you lay it on top of the bracket divider it will not be long enough; make sure it is below the divider. Once completed I had no screws left over and everything looked good. Despite the fact that I had removed a lot of foam during the dismantle, when I tested the system more foam came out until the vents cleared out from any remaining pieces. After that I tested all the baffles doors using both AC and heat and directing airflow from various vents. It all worked perfectly. This job requires patience, a slow pace so you don’t break anything and documentation; don’t rely on your memory as to where stuff goes.
It's funny I have the same steering wheel in my golf 😅 Good video , just did mine . I did not have to remove the top duct at all but I did remove the vents and unplug the wire harnesses. Also a 6 mm open end wrench easily removes the brass colored bolt on the right side of the plenum/ box ( or whatever it's called) the one on the left as stated is no problem with a socket and extension
Nothing like a MK1 TT steering wheel in a MK4 Golf / Jetta / Bora, etc. I had one in my MK4 TDI wagon until I realized it was a Tacata airbag and part of the recall. Great video, thanks.
I had a mk4 wagon I put the TT wheel in too . When I sold the wagon I put the wheel in my current mk4 golf . I did not know that was one of the bags with the recall. I hate airbags anyway so I'm yanking that thing out
Thanks for the detailed video! I wondered where all that foam was coming from that was coming out of my vents. Why did they put holes in the door and cover with foam? Doesn't seem like a very good design.
Hey. This was a very good video. It went a bit fast for taking the other stuff apart but I now know what the problem I have been dealing with for years.
Great video If I can add my experience Getting to the blend doors was took me about 50 min You need a 6 mm socket And 2 Tork bits all on a 1/4” drive wrench with extensions 3”6”14” & some plastic pry tools for trim The box takes a 6 mm on mine and on the pass side there is a hole in the dash bracing to fit a long extension then put 6 mm socket on and it. It’s a 1” long. Also the box has a top latch and a bottom hook. I put a long screwdriver in from pass side to release top latch but u have to unhook the bottom at same time. Also you should remove blower motor to clean evaporator. It’s full of rug and dirt bc when u use recirculate mode there is no filter. So you suck up rug and dust from pass footwell. there is a cabin filter on non-recirculate under cowling by wiper. Cleaning the evaporator is a real bummer. No solvents or cleaners breaks down rug lint. Also it wet from condensation. What I did was put out blowing side of clean shop vac in the drivers side of evaporator by the doors. The i let it blow for 1/2 hr to dry the rug lint and then gentle cleaned with small pick the pass side of evaporator while vac is blowing hot air. U can cut a access door and then tape it back up to get it super clean.
Just bought a 2002 TT Same problem! I think I am going to try to do a complete box removal, that way I can replace the heater core, fan and regulator to hopefully avoid problems in the future. Thanks for the great instructions!
@@lukasmendez9434 I ended up only covering the holes in the flaps because doing the fan and the heater core require a ton more work; you have to remove a lot more components and even evacuate the air conditioner circuit. I found great instructions that basically just have you removing the lower dash and then the part of the vent system which connects to the box with the flaps on it. You can get it open enough to be able to reach in and cover the flaps. Good luck to you.
Thank you VERY MUCH for this video. Much helpful. I followed suggestion of a few other comments and removed the right bracket with three 13mm bolts to pull out cover for blend doors and left the upper portion and center vents in place. Also used the plugs (from eBay) instead of tape.
Thank you! Between your video and Humble Mechanic' s 80% blend door fix video, I think I can accomplish this myself. With Climatronic it may be a little harder to get the doors to move while repairing, I may need to reconnect the Climatronic control panel.
Very helpful 👍 I thought the foam on my blend doors had deteriorated, but it turns out my white cable which controls the hot/cold air blend fell off. I ended up glueing it and refastening it. Took me a whole day, but I am so happy my ac finally works again! Thanks for the great vid.
Thanks for posting these instructions. Followed your instructions and my 2000 Jetta mk4 is blowing strong cold air again. And Hot air when winter comes.
@@pujo28 It took about 5 hours which included stopping for a sandwich if I remember right. Those two screws that are hard to get to - the ones on my car were hex/phillips head. I ended up using a hex socket to remove one and a phillips head on the other. Just worked out easier. A couple of plastic buttons on the stock radio disintegrated as I removed it. Seldom use the radio so no big deal. A couple of the vent louvers almost broke but was able to save most of their function. Humble Mechanic has a real good video showing the removal of the whole dash to do this job. I did not go that route but found it very helpful in doing this job. Just have to take your time with all that brittle plastic. A year later and my only regret was not doing this job sooner. Been very nice having a functioning heater/defroster in the winter and cold air in the summer!
As brittle as these dashes have become I only wanna go in there once. I recently did a heater core and new foam in a 99 Beetle for my neighbor. That obviously requires removing the whole dash which is probably not an option for some diyers. The heat would run you out of the car and the A/C would keep a case of beer cold after it was done. Some have a 2 piece box that makes the job a little bit easier, especially for those who do not have access to A/C recovery equipment. Not saying anything is wrong with how you did it as the complete removal and re foam of all the doors plus a new heater core depends on how much your customer wants to spend. What were they thinking putting holes in the doors anyway?
Doing this repair very soon on my Jetta, i hope its the exact same procedure on Climatronic cars😂 my blend doors arent bad yet as everything works perfectly, but there is a little bit of foam blowing through the vents so im just gonna rip the dash out and resurface the doors anyway, also gives me an excuse to pull some other interior pieces out and fix them to eliminate some rattling while driving
im pretty sure my jettas shift knob has never been removed, and i cant get it to budge at all. i followed some instructions. put it in neutral slide the chrome sleeve down push/pull the button (tried both) pull up/out i looked around and some people have said it comes out but with more force than you'd be comfortable with. idk what i should do.
they can be stubborn. Sometimes you have to push down slightly on the shift knob as you are pulling the button out. You can also try sort of wiggling the shift knob up and down slightly as you apply pulling force on the knob.What year is it? there was two different shift knobs in the MK 4 era. You can also try doing it in gear instead of neutral.
@@hesty32 04 jetta. Auto. I saw sone dude do one by pulling the button out until you saw the rim of it but ive seen others press n pull. EDIT: figured it out, now i gotta fight with the little brass screws at 11:05
zar se isplati isparati svu plastiku u autu.. s tim stvarima koje ste digli ispod sofersajbe?A lijepo ste objasnili... i nije los video.. samo nisam za to da se svasta spusta na elemente koje je lahko isparati.. pogotovo na kod starijih auta. A i plastika se lahko lomi..
Really helpful video, i have airflow, but ever since i bought my car (in 2013) a 2000 year golf 4, ever since i bought it, foam was blowing from the vents, back then there was still a bit warm air coming in, today 2020 nothing at all, only just a bit heat, will try later on my car
if you aren't getting anything from the A/C (air from vents is ambient temp) then something more significant is wrong than just the blend doors. Check to see if your A/C compressor is even coming on when the car is running and the A/C is on
I'm quite certain my AC compressor works, and it is at correct pressure. When I engage AC, it is cold for a moment, then warm air mixes with it. I'm assuming blend doors, but don't want to get in there and have it not be that.... anything else to check before I dig around in the dash?
There must be a reason why VW engineers included holes in the door panels and then covered them with foam. Taping over these holes might create other issues. I'm wondering why they didn't simply use solid door panels without any holes.
I bet the reason they covered them in foam is for noise absorption. It seems to me VW is always trying to do fancy stuff that isn't necessarily better for the lifetime mechanical operation of the vehicle
A question, not criticism...why did VW use foam in the first place? I have the entire air handling unit / HVAC box removed from the vehicle and will be refurbishing the blend doors. The aluminum tape seems so easy and convenient vs new foam. Have you had any adverse effects (rattling, noise, sealing issues, etc) since removing the foam?
the straight tape doesn't form as tight a seal as foam when a door is closed so you lose a little bit of efficiency there. The doors do clank when moving them but Ive only noticed it when moving them. If you are removing the entire HVAC box and have easy access, I would recommend taping them then gluing foam on them.
Any suggestions if you cannot get your hand in far enough to release the tab (12 minute mark). I'm stuck here, and the even with the screws out, the blend door access panel is solidly in place, doesn't wiggle at all. Every other step was spot on helpful, except I wish more time had been spent on removing the vents, as I spent a long time getting those out. Of course, I went to UA-cam for that, and discovered there are two different types of vents, and mine has the most difficult ones to remove. But I'm still stuck, and I just can't get my hand in there far enough to release the catch. Mine is a 2000 Jetta TDI, but I can't imagine being diesel would change anything.
The diesel is the same, I believe it was a TDI in the video. My only idea is to borrow someone with smaller hands. Kid, nephew or niece, neighbor kid or something
@@hestermannmotorwerks Progress! There is a connector near the brace where you slide your hand in, which I was able to unplug, and remove from the plastic it is clipped into. This gave me enough room to get my finger on the tab. Just don't have the finger strength to flip it off. Am I correct that it needs to go up and toward the rear of the vehicle? The remaining bracket for the connector is digging into the back of my hand, I may dremmel that off, as it is really poking into the back of my hand, and just zip tie the connector to something when I reassemble. Otherwise, adult grandson will be here next week to help. Many thanks for your video and response.
@@SquarePeg1 yes lift it up and push back towards the rear of the car. Sometimes it helps to put just a little pressure on the other side of the lid. Put another way, reach your other hand through the radio cavity and push lightly towards the front of the car. This sometimes gives you a little slack in the tab that it will disengage easier.
@@hestermannmotorwerks Got her done, blend doors foil taped, and blend door cover reinstalled, also a hassle. The rest of re-assembly should be a cakewalk compared to getting the cover off and back on. Again, many thanks, of all the videos on fixing the blend doors, yours was my goto on many of the steps.
A question for OP, I had the temp control dial in the middle since it’s started being cold during part of the day. Turned it back to cold earlier today because it was too warm and suddenly the only thing it blows out is hot air. Am I right in guessing it’s more likely that a cable slipped off or broke rather than the foam went bad since it’s suddenly just hot air? The mixing knob worked fine the day before and now it’s face melting heat.
I agree, most likely a cable failure (popping off). The most common one is the white cable at the bottom. You can remove the shifter surround and see the attachment for the white cable at the very bottom of the mixing box.
@@hesty32 is the shifter removal any different if mine is stick? Can I just remove the bottom piece of the duct assembly to check that and maybe it’s an easier fix to pop it back in the lever and I won’t have to take out the top part of the duct assembly?
If you look at the video from about 15:15 to 17:00 there is a description and demo of where the cables commonly slip off the actuator levers. That access is just by removing the shifter surround. The surround comes out the same way if it’s auto or stick with the exception of the shifter boot on a stick
Hi, I broke the clip thing (the thing that you said was the hardest thing to get to) on the back of the box when trying to remove it. Is it a problem when I reassemble, do I need to buy a new box? Thanks!
depends. If you can still get the cover to fit snuggly and seal with the other fasteners, you should be fine. If it doesn't seal all the way, your air box will leak and you will have some degraded A/C and heat
So i have the electronic climate control (Climatronic) and it uses servos to move the blend doors. Will i be able to manipulate the doors without the control module being hooked up?
I think so but Im not 100% sure. If you do manually move the electric servos, Just go slowly so you dont strip out the small plastic gears. I think you can gently but firmly move the motors by hand. They'll be underneath (kind of right below the blend doors)
My ac started blowing warm so i had it service by the dealer and its still not very cold the dealer said the system checked out and is working as it should but theres now way the temp is acceptable by vw standards i wonder if the blend door foam came off only thing is i dont have any foam coming out of the vents do u think its worth taking it all apart and seeing if its that. Another thing that makes me worried is that the heat works amazing blows super hot air when its on high enough to where my aftermarket radion overheats and shuts off so that makes me think that the door wouldnt be the problem
check your heat, does it do the same thing? Only lukewarm air when the car is warmed up? Also check the amount of air being blown out each set of vents as you change the direction dial. if the heater is only lukewarm (when the car is all the way warmed up) and you get air flow from windshield, dash and footwell vents even the other positions are selected, then it probably is your blend doors
@@hesty32 the heat is amazing in the car gets so hot that my aftermarket radion overheats and shuts off just the ac isnt very good even when it was serviced
What is the purpose of the foam to start with🤔, if you already know they will degrade with time? Is this a manufacturing design issue? Just wondering. Thanks for sharing the tips and tricks to solve the issue. Now I know,where the foam pieces are coming from🤯.❤👍👍
It is probably cheaper to make the cars like that, I still have some leftover foam from the years my Golf has been throwing that thing out of the air vents. Waiting for the good weather to come by so I can start this repair.
@@hesty32 many thanks... yes the console is bit different and I've removed it a few times to make various jobs. as golf 4... beetle and audi a38l are basically the same car under the skin just wondering if the blend doors have the same position.... I'm going to take a dive into it
Very nice explanation unfortunately it looks like this is the problem I have also what I need is a local high school kid that can follow directions I'm too old for this having said that we just changed out the solenoid's in my transmission tip Tronic what a pain in the ass and of course rebuilt the dog bone transmission mount again,I guess it's worth it for a car that goes 145 thanks again chris z
that will help a lot but it will still mix ambient air with the A/C air so it won't get frigid. Fairly easy to do though, bypass the heater core and see how it goes.
Hello! Great very clear video, thank you! I also have the same problem, that is the air deviators with holes to be plugged, I can Know what the material with which they are called is , and by doing this what problem have you solved? have you recovered your heating efficiency? I hope you answer me thank you very much ☺️👍
@@hestermannmotorwerks I thank you infinitely! 3 days ago I did your same job ...you have to go crazy 🤣 but the result is excellent.I solved the heating problem, now heat a bomb! 😁 thanks to your video I avoided throwing down the whole dashboard to be able to do this job.Thanks again! I wish you a good year! ✌️☺️👋😁💯
Im not 100% sure what you are referencing but Im guessing you have an automatic and are trying to remove the gearshift handle? If so, 1/2 in should be it. if you are only getting 1/4 in, something isn't quite right but it might be enough. If you release the button and yank upward on the handle you will know. If the tube tries to go with the handle, it hasn't gotten far enough down to release
Check the cables (white, yellow and green) that actually control the blend doors. often then pop off or the connectors can break. When you turn the knob that changes where the air is directed, vents, floor or windshield) you should hear the doors moving or a soft thump when they fly open or close. You may have a cable off and its stuck on windshield
Which blend door cable (its colour) is connected to joint windshield/feet/upper body? On my mk4 on windshield and feet position it works fine, after that it stays on feet, like it does not move to upper body and feet+upper body position? May be cable slipped off or broken? Thanks in advance
I'm pretty sure the airbag is the same but the controls and how the cables run may be different since they are electric servos instead of manual controls
@@ryleyahrenholtz9291 The actual vent needs to come out of the housing. I use a small screwdriver and insert it between the moving part of the vent and the housing, then gently flex towards the vent. Usually that will let that side pop out, then do the same on the other side. Just be gentle though, the plastic can get brittle. There is a pin on each side that fits into a hole in the housing. You have to get just enough pressure on the vent to pop that pin out of the hole
seat cordoba 2004 model. is it without removing the breast. Is it as easy as your procedure?masters say complete breast cabin will be removed Thank you
sorry, we don't have the Seats here so I have no idea of their construction. As a VAG product I would assume very similar but as soon as you say that....
Actually every step going into the meat of things is important. So, why spend almost 10 minutes of the 22 minutes with the upfront narrative only to fast forward thru the important stuff? Otherwise, you did a fairly good job illustrating how to do the job. Also, if you remove those two metal support pieces on either side everything is so much easier. Lastly, on mine, there was a zip tie holding a bundled of wire on the right side of the black plastic piece. Oh, and you do not show us how you got the top piece out..... you show going back, but how did your get it out?
You forgot to tell everybody to cut off the tab to get your hand behind. Everything is a big connector there cut part of the tab off your connector out of the way.
I love and adore my entire fleet of VAG machines however this foam bullshit in place of solid, secure and reliable doors makes absolutely zero sense to me. A fellow V Dubber told me that these intentional holes punched into blend doors covered by highly porous and weak foam screens essentially that somehow redirect air was selected by my fellow manufacturing engineers to prevent whistling, HA! I wonder how many other hundreds of millions of cars across the globe whistle like an entire symphony of flutes or other wind instruments because of this oversight all the meanwhile providing SUPERIOR, reliable and long term HVAC functionality!!! Danke silly Germans.
Couldn’t agree more! Maybe a higher quality foam at least? This usually happens the same time the foam in the headliner degrades and the headliner starts sagging!
@@hesty32 Thanks for this video. I see you didn't mention the green mode selection cable above throttle pedal. Have you ever played with that before? After following your instructions I still don't have hardly any airflow from central windshield dashboard vent. I also don't see any provisions to extend/shorten or alter the green mode selection cable length. I believe the door to be operating as I can select between feet and face zones, just no airflow to passenger side vent or windshield vent.
I wish you would have shown yourself doing the brass screw on the driver side because I don't care what you do you can't get a socket on that screw because its recessed in a pocket in that plastic box
16:39 this is what i missed!!!!! I put the vents back on and still had air leaking out the bottom. Now I know what I have to work on to get the vent to seal a little better.
Some time ago, I had a shop change out my heater core and noticed that they had forgotten to put on the left side phillips screw and the entire center piece was loose. Once I got this piece seated properly, I had better air supply to the vents. Thank you again for your help!!
Thank you so much good sir I wouldn't have done it without your video! I undertook the fix today and it took me close to 6 hours from start to finish. The big plastic thing in front of the blend doors was the worst technical thing I had to deal with in my whole life. Taking off the two bloody screws and putting them back on took more than an hour alone. But anyway, it was all worth it! I can feel the heat wave inside my golf mk4 again! Thanks again and best wishes!
I am in the blend door access panel part of this project, and this video has helped out a ton. Thank you👏
You're very welcome! Glad it was helpful
thank you so much for wasting time making this video. everything was very well explained and will help me to solve my problem. the most complete and demonstrative video I found. MANY CONGRATULATIONS and much success in your life. greetings from Portugal
Never ,it is not wast of time ,it's how to control time to serve others like u and me ...thanks a lot
I helped a good friend do this today, thank you so much for a great video and information on it.
Here a couple helpful tips on what we did slightly different.
1. We didn’t remove the upper duct section.
2. We remove just the right side metal brace and the lower duct section came out pretty easily.
3. We used DPS Blend Door Plugs to install into the holes, applied a few dabs of sealant around the outside edge and they worked great!
Thank you again!!
Thanks for the additional tips! I wasn't aware of the DPS plugs but that is a great idea
I think (if it's your own car) that just cutting a square out of the plastic for access would negate most of this work.
@@FireBeamgoing in I thought this would be a nightmare but I did it in less than 3 hours start to finish. Cutting a hole wouldn't really get the job done any quicker. The worst part is disassembly of all the trim
This is obviously hard-earned information. Thank you so much for sharing and also giving us a lot of the context and nuances to consider before starting the job. I am really looking forward to having a car that can heat much better this winter
Thanks for the sweet breakdown. Instead of fully removing the blend door access panel fully from underneath the housing, I found that simply wedging it as low as I could, allowed me access to the vents to seal them.
Trying to wedge out that panel was just ridiculously hard, so I left it in place.
But make sure you have all the cables and whatnot clear when you reinstall:
When I was hooking up my radio, I realized I'd accidentally got the antenna cable behind the panel when I put it back in place (which explains why it was hard to seat! lolol)
All you have to do is remove the right side metal brace...... three 13mm bolts and it is out! This guy missed that big time!
Thank you for this video; very helpful. I experienced the foam coming through all the vents on my 2003 Jetta so I knew I had a blend door issue. I went to the dealer who gave me a $4,000 quote to do the job with no guarantee that it would work or that they may break some parts during the process. Even though the car is in perfect condition even after 21 years and 74k miles, the cost to repair would be greater than the value.
I decided to do the project myself. It took about 15 hours from start to finish. I took pictures of everything and labelled every screw. Every part was laid out on a sheet of plywood and documented. The hardest part was extracting the black box in front of the blend doors; had to remove the 13mm bolts to get the added room to wiggle it out. For the blend doors, I used the heavy duty end foil tape with the plastic backing - wrapping the blend doors was surprisingly easy.
Putting it back together was just as tedious to ensure that the trim gaps all lined up. The two screws to secure the black box could not be reinstalled; I could not get access as easily but I made sure the box was in there snug with the clips. One thing to watch out for is where the radio harness comes out - if you lay it on top of the bracket divider it will not be long enough; make sure it is below the divider. Once completed I had no screws left over and everything looked good.
Despite the fact that I had removed a lot of foam during the dismantle, when I tested the system more foam came out until the vents cleared out from any remaining pieces. After that I tested all the baffles doors using both AC and heat and directing airflow from various vents. It all worked perfectly.
This job requires patience, a slow pace so you don’t break anything and documentation; don’t rely on your memory as to where stuff goes.
This was absolute hell to do. The car was fighting me every step of the way.
It's funny I have the same steering wheel in my golf 😅
Good video , just did mine . I did not have to remove the top duct at all but I did remove the vents and unplug the wire harnesses. Also a 6 mm open end wrench easily removes the brass colored bolt on the right side of the plenum/ box ( or whatever it's called) the one on the left as stated is no problem with a socket and extension
Nothing like a MK1 TT steering wheel in a MK4 Golf / Jetta / Bora, etc. I had one in my MK4 TDI wagon until I realized it was a Tacata airbag and part of the recall. Great video, thanks.
I had a mk4 wagon I put the TT wheel in too . When I sold the wagon I put the wheel in my current mk4 golf . I did not know that was one of the bags with the recall. I hate airbags anyway so I'm yanking that thing out
Thanks for the detailed video! I wondered where all that foam was coming from that was coming out of my vents. Why did they put holes in the door and cover with foam? Doesn't seem like a very good design.
Hey. This was a very good video. It went a bit fast for taking the other stuff apart but I now know what the problem I have been dealing with for years.
BEST VIDEO EEEEEEVVVVVEEEEEEERRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Great video
If I can add my experience
Getting to the blend doors was took me about 50 min
You need a 6 mm socket
And 2 Tork bits all on a 1/4” drive wrench with extensions 3”6”14”
& some plastic pry tools for trim
The box takes a 6 mm on mine and on the pass side there is a hole in the dash bracing to fit a long extension then put 6 mm socket on and it. It’s a 1” long. Also the box has a top latch and a bottom hook. I put a long screwdriver in from pass side to release top latch but u have to unhook the bottom at same time. Also you should remove blower motor to clean evaporator. It’s full of rug and dirt bc when u use recirculate mode there is no filter. So you suck up rug and dust from pass footwell. there is a cabin filter on non-recirculate under cowling by wiper.
Cleaning the evaporator is a real bummer. No solvents or cleaners breaks down rug lint.
Also it wet from condensation. What I did was put out blowing side of clean shop vac in the drivers side of evaporator by the doors.
The i let it blow for 1/2 hr to dry the rug lint and then gentle cleaned with small pick the pass side of evaporator while vac is blowing hot air.
U can cut a access door and then tape it back up to get it super clean.
Best video on this repair. Thank you so much.
Just bought a 2002 TT Same problem! I think I am going to try to do a complete box removal, that way I can replace the heater core, fan and regulator to hopefully avoid problems in the future. Thanks for the great instructions!
Good luck!
I have a TT as well. How did it go?
@@lukasmendez9434 I ended up only covering the holes in the flaps because doing the fan and the heater core require a ton more work; you have to remove a lot more components and even evacuate the air conditioner circuit.
I found great instructions that basically just have you removing the lower dash and then the part of the vent system which connects to the box with the flaps on it. You can get it open enough to be able to reach in and cover the flaps.
Good luck to you.
@@mscher22 and did it solve your problems? 😃
Thank you very much for this informative video. I wasn't looking forward to removing the entire dash to do this job.
I know that feeling! and this works pretty well.
Great job seem need to do the same in my Vw mk4 as not getting much cool air when I put the AC
Thank you VERY MUCH for this video. Much helpful. I followed suggestion of a few other comments and removed the right bracket with three 13mm bolts to pull out cover for blend doors and left the upper portion and center vents in place. Also used the plugs (from eBay) instead of tape.
Bro you absolutely ROCK. Thanks for the video and saving me thousands.
@@jonathanhamilton5 glad to help!
Thank you! Between your video and Humble Mechanic' s 80% blend door fix video, I think I can accomplish this myself. With Climatronic it may be a little harder to get the doors to move while repairing, I may need to reconnect the Climatronic control panel.
Cool. Thanks for the video. I planning on fixing mine within next few days. 👏👏👏👏👏👏👏
Excellent video. This helped me a lot. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for the info, Got a climatronic model Golf thats not responding, Need to open it up and see if something is broken
Very helpful 👍 I thought the foam on my blend doors had deteriorated, but it turns out my white cable which controls the hot/cold air blend fell off. I ended up glueing it and refastening it. Took me a whole day, but I am so happy my ac finally works again! Thanks for the great vid.
You're welcome! Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for posting these instructions. Followed your instructions and my 2000 Jetta mk4 is blowing strong cold air again. And Hot air when winter comes.
Awesome! glad it helped!
I have an 01 golf and will be attempting this after the summer. How long start to finish did it take you?
@@pujo28 It took about 5 hours which included stopping for a sandwich if I remember right. Those two screws that are hard to get to - the ones on my car were hex/phillips head. I ended up using a hex socket to remove one and a phillips head on the other. Just worked out easier. A couple of plastic buttons on the stock radio disintegrated as I removed it. Seldom use the radio so no big deal. A couple of the vent louvers almost broke but was able to save most of their function. Humble Mechanic has a real good video showing the removal of the whole dash to do this job. I did not go that route but found it very helpful in doing this job. Just have to take your time with all that brittle plastic.
A year later and my only regret was not doing this job sooner. Been very nice having a functioning heater/defroster in the winter and cold air in the summer!
@@paulschoppe1448 thx for the reply. I’ll try not removing the dash. Just the center part. Not looking forward to this job but necessary
Perfect video, articulated well, thank you, this is next project.
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks so much, I'm looking forward to the sound of those doors clanging!
I have the same problem ,think you for your help.
Great video my hands were all sorts of cut up after this job. Getting to that top latch is killer.
I just started this project my middle actuator is broken. I can tell it was refoamed. Now i have to take the whole assembly out to see if i can fix it
Thank you so .uch for this video. It took me forever to find this. I have had these exact issues and will be fixed tomorrow morning before work
As brittle as these dashes have become I only wanna go in there once. I recently did a heater core and new foam in a 99 Beetle for my neighbor. That obviously requires removing the whole dash which is probably not an option for some diyers. The heat would run you out of the car and the A/C would keep a case of beer cold after it was done. Some have a 2 piece box that makes the job a little bit easier, especially for those who do not have access to A/C recovery equipment. Not saying anything is wrong with how you did it as the complete removal and re foam of all the doors plus a new heater core depends on how much your customer wants to spend. What were they thinking putting holes in the doors anyway?
I know right? I m not enough of an engineer to figure that one out.
They were thinking that a few years down the road they would make money on AC Service
You are the man. Thank you
Glad it was helpful!
thanks for detailed explanation.I was able to solve heater problem of my car.
Glad it helped!
Doing this repair very soon on my Jetta, i hope its the exact same procedure on Climatronic cars😂 my blend doors arent bad yet as everything works perfectly, but there is a little bit of foam blowing through the vents so im just gonna rip the dash out and resurface the doors anyway, also gives me an excuse to pull some other interior pieces out and fix them to eliminate some rattling while driving
Haven’t done a climatronic yet so I don’t really know for sure but please post your results cuz I get that question all the time!
Thanks for the video yours was the most explained from others ☺️
Gad it was helpful!
im pretty sure my jettas shift knob has never been removed, and i cant get it to budge at all. i followed some instructions.
put it in neutral
slide the chrome sleeve down
push/pull the button (tried both)
pull up/out
i looked around and some people have said it comes out but with more force than you'd be comfortable with. idk what i should do.
they can be stubborn. Sometimes you have to push down slightly on the shift knob as you are pulling the button out. You can also try sort of wiggling the shift knob up and down slightly as you apply pulling force on the knob.What year is it? there was two different shift knobs in the MK 4 era. You can also try doing it in gear instead of neutral.
@@hesty32 04 jetta. Auto. I saw sone dude do one by pulling the button out until you saw the rim of it but ive seen others press n pull.
EDIT: figured it out, now i gotta fight with the little brass screws at 11:05
Thanks, You helped me a lot ... Greetings from Croatia 😊
Glad it helped! Greetings back to you! Been a long time since I was in Croatia but it was beautiful in the spring!
I'm in the process of doing this myself and this helped me sooooo much! Thank you for the guide
Glad I could help!
Thank you for the video, it is really helping me fix my car, but one thing I wondered, what exactly does the green blend door wire do?
zar se isplati isparati svu plastiku u autu.. s tim stvarima koje ste digli ispod sofersajbe?A lijepo ste objasnili... i nije los video.. samo nisam za to da se svasta spusta na elemente koje je lahko isparati.. pogotovo na kod starijih auta. A i plastika se lahko lomi..
Really helpful video, i have airflow, but ever since i bought my car (in 2013) a 2000 year golf 4, ever since i bought it, foam was blowing from the vents, back then there was still a bit warm air coming in, today 2020 nothing at all, only just a bit heat, will try later on my car
if you aren't getting anything from the A/C (air from vents is ambient temp) then something more significant is wrong than just the blend doors. Check to see if your A/C compressor is even coming on when the car is running and the A/C is on
I'm quite certain my AC compressor works, and it is at correct pressure. When I engage AC, it is cold for a moment, then warm air mixes with it. I'm assuming blend doors, but don't want to get in there and have it not be that.... anything else to check before I dig around in the dash?
@@jasonalvis2508 take a look at the lever (from passenger side) that moves the blend doors. Could be loose.
отличная инструкция,не так все сложно как Вы говорите
Nicely done thanks for the tips
Could you kindly put the heavy duty aluminum tape link please? Or the brand and model?
There must be a reason why VW engineers included holes in the door panels and then covered them with foam. Taping over these holes might create other issues. I'm wondering why they didn't simply use solid door panels without any holes.
I bet the reason they covered them in foam is for noise absorption. It seems to me VW is always trying to do fancy stuff that isn't necessarily better for the lifetime mechanical operation of the vehicle
Interesting, but i think I will stick a endoscopic camera down the vents before I start anything.
A question, not criticism...why did VW use foam in the first place? I have the entire air handling unit / HVAC box removed from the vehicle and will be refurbishing the blend doors. The aluminum tape seems so easy and convenient vs new foam. Have you had any adverse effects (rattling, noise, sealing issues, etc) since removing the foam?
the straight tape doesn't form as tight a seal as foam when a door is closed so you lose a little bit of efficiency there. The doors do clank when moving them but Ive only noticed it when moving them. If you are removing the entire HVAC box and have easy access, I would recommend taping them then gluing foam on them.
Any suggestions if you cannot get your hand in far enough to release the tab (12 minute mark). I'm stuck here, and the even with the screws out, the blend door access panel is solidly in place, doesn't wiggle at all.
Every other step was spot on helpful, except I wish more time had been spent on removing the vents, as I spent a long time getting those out. Of course, I went to UA-cam for that, and discovered there are two different types of vents, and mine has the most difficult ones to remove.
But I'm still stuck, and I just can't get my hand in there far enough to release the catch.
Mine is a 2000 Jetta TDI, but I can't imagine being diesel would change anything.
The diesel is the same, I believe it was a TDI in the video. My only idea is to borrow someone with smaller hands. Kid, nephew or niece, neighbor kid or something
@@hestermannmotorwerks Progress! There is a connector near the brace where you slide your hand in, which I was able to unplug, and remove from the plastic it is clipped into. This gave me enough room to get my finger on the tab. Just don't have the finger strength to flip it off.
Am I correct that it needs to go up and toward the rear of the vehicle?
The remaining bracket for the connector is digging into the back of my hand, I may dremmel that off, as it is really poking into the back of my hand, and just zip tie the connector to something when I reassemble.
Otherwise, adult grandson will be here next week to help.
Many thanks for your video and response.
@@SquarePeg1 yes lift it up and push back towards the rear of the car. Sometimes it helps to put just a little pressure on the other side of the lid. Put another way, reach your other hand through the radio cavity and push lightly towards the front of the car. This sometimes gives you a little slack in the tab that it will disengage easier.
@@hestermannmotorwerks Got her done, blend doors foil taped, and blend door cover reinstalled, also a hassle. The rest of re-assembly should be a cakewalk compared to getting the cover off and back on.
Again, many thanks, of all the videos on fixing the blend doors, yours was my goto on many of the steps.
awesome! glad to hear you got it done!
A question for OP, I had the temp control dial in the middle since it’s started being cold during part of the day. Turned it back to cold earlier today because it was too warm and suddenly the only thing it blows out is hot air. Am I right in guessing it’s more likely that a cable slipped off or broke rather than the foam went bad since it’s suddenly just hot air? The mixing knob worked fine the day before and now it’s face melting heat.
I agree, most likely a cable failure (popping off). The most common one is the white cable at the bottom. You can remove the shifter surround and see the attachment for the white cable at the very bottom of the mixing box.
@@hesty32 is the shifter removal any different if mine is stick? Can I just remove the bottom piece of the duct assembly to check that and maybe it’s an easier fix to pop it back in the lever and I won’t have to take out the top part of the duct assembly?
If you look at the video from about 15:15 to 17:00 there is a description and demo of where the cables commonly slip off the actuator levers. That access is just by removing the shifter surround. The surround comes out the same way if it’s auto or stick with the exception of the shifter boot on a stick
Hi, I broke the clip thing (the thing that you said was the hardest thing to get to) on the back of the box when trying to remove it. Is it a problem when I reassemble, do I need to buy a new box? Thanks!
depends. If you can still get the cover to fit snuggly and seal with the other fasteners, you should be fine. If it doesn't seal all the way, your air box will leak and you will have some degraded A/C and heat
So i have the electronic climate control (Climatronic) and it uses servos to move the blend doors. Will i be able to manipulate the doors without the control module being hooked up?
I think so but Im not 100% sure. If you do manually move the electric servos, Just go slowly so you dont strip out the small plastic gears. I think you can gently but firmly move the motors by hand. They'll be underneath (kind of right below the blend doors)
El video es increíble! Muchas gracias :)
My ac started blowing warm so i had it service by the dealer and its still not very cold the dealer said the system checked out and is working as it should but theres now way the temp is acceptable by vw standards i wonder if the blend door foam came off only thing is i dont have any foam coming out of the vents do u think its worth taking it all apart and seeing if its that. Another thing that makes me worried is that the heat works amazing blows super hot air when its on high enough to where my aftermarket radion overheats and shuts off so that makes me think that the door wouldnt be the problem
check your heat, does it do the same thing? Only lukewarm air when the car is warmed up? Also check the amount of air being blown out each set of vents as you change the direction dial. if the heater is only lukewarm (when the car is all the way warmed up) and you get air flow from windshield, dash and footwell vents even the other positions are selected, then it probably is your blend doors
@@hesty32 the heat is amazing in the car gets so hot that my aftermarket radion overheats and shuts off just the ac isnt very good even when it was serviced
thanks!
What is the purpose of the foam to start with🤔, if you already know they will degrade with time? Is this a manufacturing design issue? Just wondering. Thanks for sharing the tips and tricks to solve the issue. Now I know,where the foam pieces are coming from🤯.❤👍👍
It is probably cheaper to make the cars like that, I still have some leftover foam from the years my Golf has been throwing that thing out of the air vents. Waiting for the good weather to come by so I can start this repair.
Why did they go with foam? Why not any other material
I don’t know for sure but I think it was to dampen noise. Doesn’t seem like that great of a design though lol
Anybody have an opinion on how well the AC works compared to OE? Also, Anyone want to give in if this repair lasts?
Just a question: if there was foam covering up those holes, wouldn't the air supposed to go through? If one duck tapes it, no air will pass...
this is true. I don't know why exactly they designed it that way but I haven't had any issues using tape or using plugs.
The sticky film to which the foam is attached to acts as a barrier. I noticed I still had some and had to remove that little bit of leftover film.
this is great!! thank you
glad it was helpful!
about doing this job on an audi a3 8l..
is it exactly the same?
regards from italy
no sorry the audi is going to be different. Probably similar but I know the console comes apart differently
@@hesty32 many thanks... yes the console is bit different and I've removed it a few times to make various jobs.
as golf 4... beetle and audi a38l are basically the same car under the skin just wondering if the blend doors have the same position.... I'm going to take a dive into it
In the video you mention a manual. What would you recommend? Is Bentley a good one for VW?
I love the Bentley manuals. They aren't perfect but they are pretty good. Highly recommend one if you are going to do any work on your VW.
Hi, I own golf 4. I have to change the sponge of the ducts because there are vibrations. Is the procedure the same for golf 4? Thank you
yes Jetta and Golf are identical
Very nice explanation unfortunately it looks like this is the problem I have also what I need is a local high school kid that can follow directions I'm too old for this having said that we just changed out the solenoid's in my transmission tip Tronic what a pain in the ass and of course rebuilt the dog bone transmission mount again,I guess it's worth it for a car that goes 145 thanks again chris z
Will it work if I do have a climatronic in my Golf??
The controls and how they hook up are different but I’m pretty sure the air box and access is the same
@@hestermannmotorwerks Thank you, sir.
The white one is for Heat/Cold ....What´s the other door for? The one actioned by the yellow one?
that determines if the air will come out the dash vents or the floor vents (or blended). The green one directs air to the windshield.
Great video thanks bro
Thank You. You helped me a lot 👍
If I disconnect the heater hoses from the engine will it blow cold without doing this repair?
that will help a lot but it will still mix ambient air with the A/C air so it won't get frigid. Fairly easy to do though, bypass the heater core and see how it goes.
@@hesty32 I ended fixing the blend door with flex tape, it blows cold now
@@slowvag8v excellent!
Taking off the glove compartment door @7:53
Thnx mate ,thank you sooooo much ,i really appreciated ....
Hello! Great very clear video, thank you! I also have the same problem, that is the air deviators with holes to be plugged, I can Know what the material with which they are called is , and by doing this what problem have you solved? have you recovered your heating efficiency? I hope you answer me thank you very much ☺️👍
yes you regain your heating and cooling efficiency by doing this. The doors are galvanized steel.
@@hestermannmotorwerks I thank you infinitely! 3 days ago I did your same job ...you have to go crazy 🤣 but the result is excellent.I solved the heating problem, now heat a bomb! 😁 thanks to your video I avoided throwing down the whole dashboard to be able to do this job.Thanks again! I wish you a good year! ✌️☺️👋😁💯
My white cable arm that goes inside is completely gone, what do I do?
I'd head to the junk yard if you need to fix it cheaply
@@hesty32 like the plastic arm that the cable connects to under the dash to the heat and ac flap door is gone, do you know the past name?
Thanks. I just decided to put him for sale.
2004 Beetle convertible. I got gear shift tube down a quarter inch. How far should it go?
Im not 100% sure what you are referencing but Im guessing you have an automatic and are trying to remove the gearshift handle? If so, 1/2 in should be it. if you are only getting 1/4 in, something isn't quite right but it might be enough. If you release the button and yank upward on the handle you will know. If the tube tries to go with the handle, it hasn't gotten far enough down to release
@@hesty32 Got it thanks. Great video.
hi im not getting any air coming from vents even on full, I replaced motor i hear it blowing but nothing from vents
Check the cables (white, yellow and green) that actually control the blend doors. often then pop off or the connectors can break. When you turn the knob that changes where the air is directed, vents, floor or windshield) you should hear the doors moving or a soft thump when they fly open or close. You may have a cable off and its stuck on windshield
Which blend door cable (its colour) is connected to joint windshield/feet/upper body? On my mk4 on windshield and feet position it works fine, after that it stays on feet, like it does not move to upper body and feet+upper body position? May be cable slipped off or broken? Thanks in advance
I looked for the hd tape and can't find it. What is the brand of the tape so I can order it. Thanks
3M makes some nice stuff but if you look on Amazon you'll find all kinds
Hi is this same for a vw golf mk4 with climate control
I'm pretty sure the airbag is the same but the controls and how the cables run may be different since they are electric servos instead of manual controls
is this a permanent fix or just temporary?
this is pretty permanent. Obviously some day the tape will let go but it will last a few years if you use high quality tape
@@hesty32 i see, thanks
I just wanna know why the hell are there holes there in the first place....
haha my 15 year-old son asked the same thing! why not make them solid LOL
@@SFlores1979 Engineered to prevent whistling is what another poster posted
Thank so mucho for this video 🙏
What type of tape did you use?
It is covered in the video, aluminum HVAC duct tape
I can’t get my center air vents to move. Any advice?
do you mean they wont tilt or move side to side? Or do you mean you are trying to remove them and can't get them to budge?
@@hestermannmotorwerks I’m trying to pull them out and they won’t budge. Are there any clips on it that I need to release?
@@ryleyahrenholtz9291 The actual vent needs to come out of the housing. I use a small screwdriver and insert it between the moving part of the vent and the housing, then gently flex towards the vent. Usually that will let that side pop out, then do the same on the other side. Just be gentle though, the plastic can get brittle. There is a pin on each side that fits into a hole in the housing. You have to get just enough pressure on the vent to pop that pin out of the hole
But the real question is why does VW make holes in the flaps and cover it with foam
thats a good question that I don't know the answer to
You love vw or audi?
seat cordoba 2004 model. is it without removing the breast. Is it as easy as your procedure?masters say complete breast cabin will be removed
Thank you
sorry, we don't have the Seats here so I have no idea of their construction. As a VAG product I would assume very similar but as soon as you say that....
@@hesty32 thank you
Bravo 💪
O en son çıkardığımız havalandırma parçasını ben çıkarmıyorum yardımınıza ihtiyacım var...
thank you so much
Tnx man.
I haven't had much sex....I mean success either lol. Little slip of the sub conscious lol jk. Great video man
perfect video
Thanks glad it was helpful
Actually every step going into the meat of things is important. So, why spend almost 10 minutes of the 22 minutes with the upfront narrative only to fast forward thru the important stuff? Otherwise, you did a fairly good job illustrating how to do the job. Also, if you remove those two metal support pieces on either side everything is so much easier. Lastly, on mine, there was a zip tie holding a bundled of wire on the right side of the black plastic piece. Oh, and you do not show us how you got the top piece out..... you show going back, but how did your get it out?
Thankyou ...!!!
You forgot to tell everybody to cut off the tab to get your hand behind. Everything is a big connector there cut part of the tab off your connector out of the way.
This job sucks but my wife now has heat in the car. Your gonna break some plastic tabs doing this job.
I love and adore my entire fleet of VAG machines however this foam bullshit in place of solid, secure and reliable doors makes absolutely zero sense to me. A fellow V Dubber told me that these intentional holes punched into blend doors covered by highly porous and weak foam screens essentially that somehow redirect air was selected by my fellow manufacturing engineers to prevent whistling, HA! I wonder how many other hundreds of millions of cars across the globe whistle like an entire symphony of flutes or other wind instruments because of this oversight all the meanwhile providing SUPERIOR, reliable and long term HVAC functionality!!! Danke silly Germans.
Couldn’t agree more! Maybe a higher quality foam at least? This usually happens the same time the foam in the headliner degrades and the headliner starts sagging!
@@hesty32 NO FOAM! ONLY SOLID BLEND DOORS! When covered with aluminum tape do these whistle afterwards? Not at all.
@@hesty32 Thanks for this video. I see you didn't mention the green mode selection cable above throttle pedal. Have you ever played with that before? After following your instructions I still don't have hardly any airflow from central windshield dashboard vent. I also don't see any provisions to extend/shorten or alter the green mode selection cable length. I believe the door to be operating as I can select between feet and face zones, just no airflow to passenger side vent or windshield vent.
I wish you would have shown yourself doing the brass screw on the driver side because I don't care what you do you can't get a socket on that screw because its recessed in a pocket in that plastic box
yeah that one is a PITA to get. I actually used a thin wall socket to get to the hex head ones. The phillips or torx head ones are much easier!
Use a deep well 6mm or I wound up using a 1" long 1/4" drive extension and got it straight on