The one time when a good mechanical connection can make a difference, in a solder joint, is when the component gets loose. Since I repair guitars all day I know that most people don't make the effort to tighten pots or output jacks, when they start getting loose. Instead they keep using the guitar until it stops working. But they should really tighten the components as soon as they start getting loose. On the flip side, the mechanical connections are super annoying when you have to resolder anything. In fact, they contribute to the increase risk of some future tech overheating the components when they have to rewire something.
THANK YOU DYLAN! You answered some major questions I had about my own personal soldering. These myth-busting things are VERY useful to me. Love your content, dude! I hope you and the Mrs. are still having a blast with the camper.
I used to inadvertently knock the switch out of my desired position on the tele and thought of swapping the controls around. Instead I taught myself not to hit the switch.
Get a supply of shielded cable to use for that run from the volume pot to the jack. I've found up to half a guitar's idle noise floor can be due to an unshielded pair (a loose or a twisted pair doesn't matter, they need a shield). Many guitars have no cavity shielding and it's even more important to protect the leaping off point for the guitar signal to the amp.
when i started doing guitar electronics at about 12 or 13 i thought the ground actually went to wood haha, i figured it out by 15 though. I've always used whatever wires i can get my hands on really and it all works nicely, from old motorbike/car wiring looms to old hifi speaker wire and even from washing machines! obviously if it's falling apart or burnt out I don't use it lol
And don't forget your bridge ground on new builds . Of course you don't need 100-400v Vishay ( Sprague Orange Drop )capacitors either . I like to use the little yellow Nichicon poly ones . It's nice to build your controls into a small cavity and use part of the thick veneer you have for the back as a cover . Make that screw less by using small neodymium magnets . If an antique build and for looks , non electrolytic in low voltage conditions stay good forever and in tolerance . I source real Sprague caps from defunct old aircraft instruments like Narco navigation or communication stuff which you can pick up cheaply anywhere even in the UK , and I have bucket loads . I have the orange drop types and the barrel types which look like a little orange fuse with wires coming out each end and Sprague in the biggest font they could get on this little things . These are often combined with those cloth wrapped white ones that Gibson used during certain periods and I have a number of those too all from old US aircraft instruments . They are film type but the outer was like a cloth material with value printed on it instead of straight onto the plastic or painted body . For the very few British made guitars I work on , I have Mullard mustards & trop fish and Hunts or Plessey poly in all the useful capacities for guitars . Screened wire for the output , old organs like Hammond , Farfisa etc that old people have left behind can be had for nothing just collection will not only get you caps old germanium transistors ( great for pedals ) etc but miles of vintage screened cable sometimes in a variety of colours too ( Farfisa) , perfect for guitars so you can colour match your screened cable with the body colour .
Dylan awesome video man! I have learned so much in the last couple weeks binge watching your channel ever since Matt from Texas Toast turned me on to your channel during one of their live streams. I’m so impressed I had to look you up on Patreon and show you some love. Will probably be taking your classes before Sunday gets here. A few questions? Where do you purchase your cloth covered wire, where did you purchase that kick ass soldering rig and finally do you always ground to the volume pod in every situation, providing there is a volume pod? Just one more, does grounding to the volume pod have anything to do with the capacitor being hooked up to the tone pod? Thanks man!
Would the harness you made up in this video fit a Harley Benton Telecaster switch control cavity ? I like the confident way you build that harness. What solder are you using for that job?
Hi Dylan! In some of your videos you were talking about a 'issue' that you keep hearing from guitar players - that guitar hums/buzzes while not touching the strings, and that this is not a real issue, because this is how guitar should work. But what about having a loud click when you do touch the strings or metal parts of guitar, is this something that could be fixed? So what I mean is, I loose contact with strings with both my hands, there's hum - ok, not a problem, but I touch the strings again and before humming quiets there's an audible pop which cuts through. In this example situation is not that realistic, because if you sort of let go of the playing all together, you'll probably turn the volume pot down as well. But this also happens when playing and, say, doing chord changes and loosing contact with strings for a moment.
When I did my Electronics course (30 years ago), I was "taught" to always make a mechanical joint with the wire. There are good reasons to do it (easier to solder, solder flows into the joint easier). From a repair point of view, it's stupid as what happens when the wire eventually breaks? Its a PITA to get that mechanically joined wire out of a lug. Much easier to butt the wire on and easy to take off it the wire happens to break. The only time I would say do it is if it's actually hard to hold the wire in place while soldering.
My impression with avoiding "ground loops" in a guitar wasn't in terms of the completely proper use of the term, but actually avoiding making a loop shape with your ground. The idea being that you're making a essentially a single turn of a coil with the ground wire, and that could make it more likely to pick up extra EMI. All to say, like you said, no need to go crazy adding extra grounding.
Great video! I have HS tele that I want to wire with dual stack pots 250/500 - so when on bridge will use the 250 and when on neck will use the 500 for the hum - I saw that fender does it with the Costume shop HS telecaster but cannot find any diagram or video explaining how it works
Thanks for making what you do so accessible. I learn so much and you give it a different feel. Also, at some point could you do a vid on the pros & cons of pedal effects power supplies. I recently bought a top quality isolated power supply to replace my old cheapie one. Now my pedals sound awesome which leads me to think they were being starved of the correct mAmps. Most of my pedals are 9V
I believe you mentioned in one of your videos using a wiring harness that would switch between 500k and 250k based on the push/pull coil split (you had acquired the premade wiring setup from someone else, I don't remember what it was being used for). Can you talk about how you would set something like that up, and what the benefits of that setup would be?
2:02 yes! And also a way to make one more stiff or less stiff without replacing the whole switch (if there is such a non destructive way). edit: thanks for explaining ground loop situation!
Hi.. Can you show/tell me some the differents of ground wiring and those parts uses high end guitar and entry level guitar? I just wanna MOD my entry level guitar to be a great weapon 🙏
You mentioned keeping the caps inside to prevent interference with the cavity. Same goes for the leads on the pots. Which I am sure you know already. Just noting it for others that watch this video.
I love your videos, they're incredibly informative and helpful! I have a pickup question. Does anyone you know of make a humbucker-sized jazzmaster-style single-coil, and if not, do you think that would work? I know the size of the jazzmaster pickup is a big part of why it sounds the way it does, but what would happen if you just made it a little smaller?
I find cloth wiring to be easier because I'm getting old and can't see as well, plus I like the way it looks. I'm often bemused by supposed tone advantage claims too.
what about signal /where signal goes i had used coaxial wire and get those grounded ,,no matter where just to ground,,and i got no hiss after x4 home made pre amp built in /but post all wiring ,,now i had my pots changed and tone pot is useless i suspect he used audio pot on tone and rigged it in reverse because i got left bass,, plus i had i think linear pot in for tone //it has 470k -2 mark on it if it tell you and while both tone got just 470k please reply on my mail if you got time /thanks mitja slovenia
Hi. So only if you "ground" two components together, say the volume and tone pots, and then connect each individually to the negative output pin, then you get a ground loop? ie. like having 2 electronic devices connected to common ground (say, same outlet) and interconnect them with a cable that has a grounding wire, right? Of course voltages and paths to ground are not the same in both cases but they appear to be relative... So maybe even if a ground loop is present in a guitar, it has negligible effect on tone? Can you clarify this please? Thanks...
@@DylanTalksTone Thank you for taking the time and respond to my comment! So, the key here is the character of the system, and because it's passive no ground loops can occur even if the connections exist... Thanks!
a) it's not quite the same sound, albeit close. b) the switching to parallel is more complex. You need one dual switch per humbucker while one dual switch can split two humbuckers. c) the impedance change to parallel is such that tone controls barely work anymore. They become noticeably active only at the end of their course, say between 1 and 4. On the positive side, a parallel humbucker should have more high end than a split one.
It is not possible ever in a passive guitar, if you do what you wrote (assuming you mean from pot case to switch ground) you'll just have another connection point, but electrically nothing changes because they would be grounded through the plate anyways. Ground loop can only exist in powered devices with different ground potentials
Yep. Just go direct out from your volume pot to tour output jack. That'll make one less component to impede your signal or pickup any external noise. Your signal will be all the more pure.
That background music when you're talking is really distracting. I'm the guy in college that studied with no music or tv on though, so I get distracted easily by noise. Also, your AC started right when I picked up my guitar, and I thought the sound was from my amp lol (one computer speaker is by my amp). Anyway, thanks for the informative video!
Your premise on grounding is skewed, because you do not take in to account oxidization ....which mean every metal is subject to corrosion of some sort over time when exposed to the atmosphere. SO you do need to physically solder a grounding bus to every ground so it terminates at the jack ground. The JACK itself would then become the wear and tear point of a ground system since it is a mechanical ground by contact with the lead wire linking the guitar to the amp and thus the amp's chassis ground and again with a mechanical contact ground. So those jacks exposed to the atmosphere eventually corrode out with oxidization of the metal. Its best to use a bore brush for a gun barrel as a cleaner for the jacks to knock out the corrosions and polish up the metal for that mechanical grounding situation....every so often. This is the difference between a proper ground in electronics......when you solder a grounding situation....the solder FUSES the 2 metal components together by FUSION.......though you are not welding....you are not melting the metals and then they mix and cool as one as a different form of FUSION. Soldering with solder is similar to brazing in a welding situation where you use a brass brazing rod to join 2 metals that would accept brazing.......and now with aluminum there are effectively aluminum rods that can be melted to fuse 2 aluminum parts together without actually going in to the official process to weld aluminum......which is way different than welding ferrous metals. But anyway.....contact mechanical grounds are not what you want in electronics.....or even crimp on terminals to wires for connections. In automobiles, its the designed obsolensence situation with a vehicles wiring harness......they are not soldered terminals but a bunch of crimp ons that go bad in time as with age.....hence the design to go bad aspect of the concept of designed obsolesence as a philosophy. Copper wires, its intrinsic that the copper gets brittle with age and tends to break......and that can be increased when the wire which has a bit of resistance is subject to heating and cools...or expansion and contractions over time as it ages..... When TV electronics evolved to the early solid state age, it was not uncommon for failures to surface based on cracked circuit boards......but not that they were damaged by dropping or an impact.....it was the heating and cooling and the expansion and contraction. The one method used to track a cracked board was to spray a coolant on the circuit boards to contract the board and cause the crack to bridge back together from the contraction and make a mechanical contact......which then would thus act up as the cold board warmed back up. In the vacuum tube days.....it was bad solder joints because of either the leads were not clean when soldered or that the soldering process did not reach heat for a good fusion and thus a cold joint. The bad solder joints didn't always manifest till the set had some age on it....hence some oxidatiion build up. These were design defects and assembly line defects in manufacturing and quality control........
@@DylanTalksTone Everything is great when its brand new. I deal with service and repair of old stuff. SO once the oxidations set in...you can clean it but it comes back fast. once the "infection" starts. Electricians use NAALOX for service panels and the aluminum wire since it oxidizes the fastest and worst. Oxidation doesn't ride the surface...it penetrates in to an extent as a situation of metalurgy. My home town makes stainless steel. My background is that I grew up in a family business, my father had a home appliance store and was a RCA dealer among other brands.....going back to the consumer beginning of TV in the late 1940's. You have to approach it as dealing with chrome guitar hardwares VS black coated hardwares that became popular for a period of time......and the issue of grounding and in particular the string grounding......just a microscopic layer was enough to create the issue..... When you ground a pot lug to the pot body.....thats fine, but the pot itself is a mechanical contact being mounted by tightening the nut. SO its either the pot metal or the brass...and that oxidizes. Just run the bus bar off the pot body to the jack ground...and any other subsequent grounds can be tapped to the grounding bus. Your grounds ultimately have to get back to the amplifer chassis ground....with the least amount of introduced resistance in the chain...since the chain is a contact ground with the guitar wire lead......without going in to the issue of capacitance in the wire lead...whether its a straight wire or a coiled wire. Whats your concept of ELECTRON FLOW.....internal or surface ???
Thanks for this video 👍 Cleared up some stuff for me. Please keep your videos like this and not turn into a super hyper Media produced UA-cam-channe. Really like the honest “ one man talks guitars and tech” thing👍👍
Hey Dylan. I found this interesting. ua-cam.com/video/PgLWLGHDs80/v-deo.html he gaussed and deguaussed this Strat pickup and not only did it affect the output (duh), the increased magnetism made it ‘harsher’ and decreased magnetism made it ‘sweeter’ to my ears. Was this just because of the change in output, or would it change the frequency curve and resonant frequency of the pickup too (what I thought I was hearing)? 😉
The reduced output makes it push the amp less hard and introduce less harmonics as it begins to distort. It doesn't alter the frequency response of the pickup, but altering how hard it hits the amplifier will give that impression. Turning the gain down or backing of the volume has a similar effect, although you may want a treble bleed as rolling off the volume does reduce the Q of your pickup. This may or may not be desirable. I prefer a treble bleed and a gentle (22nF) tone pot so I can dial this in reasonably independently. I'd rather have a pickup that was a little hot and bright that could be dialed back, as it's very hard to go the other way, and what sounds good solo gets buried live or in a recording.
Your weakest point is where the solder wicks up a stranded wire. At the point where the solder ends is a fracture point but again, with no movement it isn't an issue. Perhaps in 50 years you might develop issues but more likely it's when users various take their guitar to bits to explore.
There's a rumor that there is some benefit to twisting wires in that it is something they used to do before there was shielded wire. There's a minimum number of twists per inch to get the benefit, which I can't remember right off hand, but the one wire twisted around the other is said to behave as a shield that could potentially cancel some hum. Probably no noticeable benefit in a shielded control cavity, but in a big old hollow body electric? I don't know, maybe. I've only wired two guitars, Man. Just going off of stuff I read on the internet.
I’ve been in telecommunications for 30 years. Twisting pairs of wire to reduce interference is vital in voice and data cables. The more twists the better. Not sure if this is necessary with guitar wiring. I’m interested to see if there are opinions about it.
@@richardmorris363 I can tell you that one of the two guitars I wired was an unshielded hollow body and that i did twist the wires. I also used low output pickups to keep it from feeding back because I knew high output pickups might be a problem in that situation. Never tried it any other way, but the way I did it doesn't hum much at all.
Guitar CCTs are primitive. How you set that control plate up it is impossible to get a ground loop. That being said after 35 years Plus in the telecommunications/Data/Transmission industry avoiding ground-loops has become second nature also it makes fault finding when things break or go wrong easier. Where we live with its humidity no sane tech would use cloth (prehistoric junk) wire as it will eventually short seasonally with measurable resistance at low voltage and current. Modern lead free solder is a PITA to work with especial if you do not know what you are doing. Don't get me started on NOS parts I have a junk draw full of the stuff (out of spec failed parts)...
HELLO MY DEAR, GOOD NIGHT. I DO NOT SPEAK ENGLISH I'M ON THE GOOGLE TRANSLATOR. I AM FROM BRAZIL I LOVE YOUR VIDEOS PLEASURE: ELI CARVALHO. I AM HAVING A LOT OF DIFFICULTIES HERE. TO DO THIS .. MY IS THE SAME THING YOUR: 1. VOLUME AND 1. TUNE. MAI ACHAVE IS DIFFERENT. THIS IS MORE, IT IS OF 7 TEETH .. NOT AS IS A DENDE NEXT TO THE OTHER AND YES AN INDIAN FILK WITH 7 TEETH. CAN TEACH WITH THE 7-TEETH STANDARDS SO IT WILL BETTER. I LOVE YOUR VIDEOS SHORT YOUR VIDEOS I LOVE AND I HAVE A LOT OF ADMINISTRATION AND RESPECT FOR AMERICANS INCLISIVELY YOU .. JUST 2 WORDS: FOR BABIES .. YOUR VIDEOS IS A SHOWWWW
Hi, What you are saying is misleading and not technically correct. First of all, by using a metal plate on a Tele and letting the plate carry the ground instead of soldering wires onto all of the controls you ARE star grounding the guitar. Star grounding means that there is only one path to the jack ground that you have mentioned. As far as ground loops are concerned, I have actually caused ground loops in a few of my guitars by shielding the control cavity with copper tape but leaving the ground wires connected to the back of the controls, thereby creating more than one path to ground. You will not notice this much if you are plugged into a Fender twin with the volume on less than 8, but in a high gain amp situation you will hear a tremendous difference. Don't tell people that ground loops are a myth, just give them the proper information that there should only be one path to ground.
You are wrong with no difference in ground potential, it is scientifically impossible. Wether it makes a difference in audible noise level, it is another story
The one time when a good mechanical connection can make a difference, in a solder joint, is when the component gets loose. Since I repair guitars all day I know that most people don't make the effort to tighten pots or output jacks, when they start getting loose. Instead they keep using the guitar until it stops working. But they should really tighten the components as soon as they start getting loose.
On the flip side, the mechanical connections are super annoying when you have to resolder anything. In fact, they contribute to the increase risk of some future tech overheating the components when they have to rewire something.
THANK YOU DYLAN! You answered some major questions I had about my own personal soldering. These myth-busting things are VERY useful to me. Love your content, dude! I hope you and the Mrs. are still having a blast with the camper.
You slung it around like a boss! I like your attitude dude. The myth busting is killing it!
Excited to install the one I ordered
This is now one of my favourite channels . Very informative 👍
Wow, thanks!
I used to inadvertently knock the switch out of my desired position on the tele and thought of swapping the controls around. Instead I taught myself not to hit the switch.
I wanted to do the reverse on my Tele copy, but couldn't figure out how to do it! Loved this video. Love the background music.
Get a supply of shielded cable to use for that run from the volume pot to the jack. I've found up to half a guitar's idle noise floor can be due to an unshielded pair (a loose or a twisted pair doesn't matter, they need a shield). Many guitars have no cavity shielding and it's even more important to protect the leaping off point for the guitar signal to the amp.
Thank you so much for the star grounding explanation. Very helpful. I gonna check the solder point which i did it weeks ago as a green hand DIYer
Did you get that telecaster control plate soldering fixture from stewmac?😉
I was about to start recording and I seen your other video.. Taking a break uploading Ruff mix to UA-cam and I see this video .
Love your work, I’m trying to figure out ringing / hum, now I will check out all the solder joints.
Check that bad solder joint on your motor home roof. Excess noise. LoL. Thanks for another great info video. B Good.
when i started doing guitar electronics at about 12 or 13 i thought the ground actually went to wood haha, i figured it out by 15 though. I've always used whatever wires i can get my hands on really and it all works nicely, from old motorbike/car wiring looms to old hifi speaker wire and even from washing machines! obviously if it's falling apart or burnt out I don't use it lol
Yes please for the switches video.
And don't forget your bridge ground on new builds . Of course you don't need 100-400v Vishay ( Sprague Orange Drop )capacitors either . I like to use the little yellow Nichicon poly ones . It's nice to build your controls into a small cavity and use part of the thick veneer you have for the back as a cover . Make that screw less by using small neodymium magnets . If an antique build and for looks , non electrolytic in low voltage conditions stay good forever and in tolerance . I source real Sprague caps from defunct old aircraft instruments like Narco navigation or communication stuff which you can pick up cheaply anywhere even in the UK , and I have bucket loads . I have the orange drop types and the barrel types which look like a little orange fuse with wires coming out each end and Sprague in the biggest font they could get on this little things . These are often combined with those cloth wrapped white ones that Gibson used during certain periods and I have a number of those too all from old US aircraft instruments . They are film type but the outer was like a cloth material with value printed on it instead of straight onto the plastic or painted body . For the very few British made guitars I work on , I have Mullard mustards & trop fish and Hunts or Plessey poly in all the useful capacities for guitars . Screened wire for the output , old organs like Hammond , Farfisa etc that old people have left behind can be had for nothing just collection will not only get you caps old germanium transistors ( great for pedals ) etc but miles of vintage screened cable sometimes in a variety of colours too ( Farfisa) , perfect for guitars so you can colour match your screened cable with the body colour .
11:58 was a pretty bad ass way of showing your knowledge.
I just picked up a squier bullet tele to mod and it came with the big holes in the control plate. I was surprised.
Dylan awesome video man! I have learned so much in the last couple weeks binge watching your channel ever since Matt from Texas Toast turned me on to your channel during one of their live streams. I’m so impressed I had to look you up on Patreon and show you some love. Will probably be taking your classes before Sunday gets here. A few questions? Where do you purchase your cloth covered wire, where did you purchase that kick ass soldering rig and finally do you always ground to the volume pod in every situation, providing there is a volume pod? Just one more, does grounding to the volume pod have anything to do with the capacitor being hooked up to the tone pod? Thanks man!
Hey Dylan! How you would explain the best way of installing a kill switch? Explaining ground loops. Thanks man!
Would the harness you made up in this video fit a Harley Benton Telecaster switch control cavity ? I like the confident way you build that harness. What solder are you using for that job?
Hi Dylan! In some of your videos you were talking about a 'issue' that you keep hearing from guitar players - that guitar hums/buzzes while not touching the strings, and that this is not a real issue, because this is how guitar should work. But what about having a loud click when you do touch the strings or metal parts of guitar, is this something that could be fixed?
So what I mean is, I loose contact with strings with both my hands, there's hum - ok, not a problem, but I touch the strings again and before humming quiets there's an audible pop which cuts through. In this example situation is not that realistic, because if you sort of let go of the playing all together, you'll probably turn the volume pot down as well. But this also happens when playing and, say, doing chord changes and loosing contact with strings for a moment.
I love your myth busting (ground loops)
When I did my Electronics course (30 years ago), I was "taught" to always make a mechanical joint with the wire. There are good reasons to do it (easier to solder, solder flows into the joint easier). From a repair point of view, it's stupid as what happens when the wire eventually breaks? Its a PITA to get that mechanically joined wire out of a lug. Much easier to butt the wire on and easy to take off it the wire happens to break. The only time I would say do it is if it's actually hard to hold the wire in place while soldering.
My impression with avoiding "ground loops" in a guitar wasn't in terms of the completely proper use of the term, but actually avoiding making a loop shape with your ground. The idea being that you're making a essentially a single turn of a coil with the ground wire, and that could make it more likely to pick up extra EMI. All to say, like you said, no need to go crazy adding extra grounding.
Great video! I have HS tele that I want to wire with dual stack pots 250/500 - so when on bridge will use the 250 and when on neck will use the 500 for the hum - I saw that fender does it with the Costume shop HS telecaster but cannot find any diagram or video explaining how it works
just use a 250 and wire a 250 resistor in series for the neck pickup
Very helpful - Thanks
Thanks for making what you do so accessible. I learn so much and you give it a different feel. Also, at some point could you do a vid on the pros & cons of pedal effects power supplies. I recently bought a top quality isolated power supply to replace my old cheapie one. Now my pedals sound awesome which leads me to think they were being starved of the correct mAmps. Most of my pedals are 9V
I believe you mentioned in one of your videos using a wiring harness that would switch between 500k and 250k based on the push/pull coil split (you had acquired the premade wiring setup from someone else, I don't remember what it was being used for). Can you talk about how you would set something like that up, and what the benefits of that setup would be?
2:02 yes! And also a way to make one more stiff or less stiff without replacing the whole switch (if there is such a non destructive way).
edit: thanks for explaining ground loop situation!
Hi.. Can you show/tell me some the differents of ground wiring and those parts uses high end guitar and entry level guitar? I just wanna MOD my entry level guitar to be a great weapon 🙏
You mentioned keeping the caps inside to prevent interference with the cavity. Same goes for the leads on the pots. Which I am sure you know already. Just noting it for others that watch this video.
Hi Dylan. Thanks for the video! Regarding the contest, what do you mean by UA-cam handle? How do I find mine?
When the AC started I think it was lika a drum roll. Message understood!
Would you do a video about burns trisonic pickups there's not a ton of info about them and I would love to hear your opinions on them
Thanks!
I love your videos, they're incredibly informative and helpful!
I have a pickup question. Does anyone you know of make a humbucker-sized jazzmaster-style single-coil, and if not, do you think that would work? I know the size of the jazzmaster pickup is a big part of why it sounds the way it does, but what would happen if you just made it a little smaller?
Ground wires that are untwisted can act as antennas and can pickup rf noise.
I find cloth wiring to be easier because I'm getting old and can't see as well, plus I like the way it looks. I'm often bemused by supposed tone advantage claims too.
There is no tone advantage, copper is copper... But if you like them for those either reasons right on man and power to you 🤘🤘
Cheers!
Space and Aviation applications could be a situation where mechanical connections could be important.
yup...
Awesome video keep it up
Thanks! Will do!
So you're actually soldering 2 ground-loops as the backplate is metal right?
and now u explained it, hope u'r right, thank you!
what about signal /where signal goes i had used coaxial wire and get those grounded ,,no matter where just to ground,,and i got no hiss after x4 home made pre amp built in /but post all wiring ,,now i had my pots changed and tone pot is useless i suspect he used audio pot on tone and rigged it in reverse because i got left bass,, plus i had i think linear pot in for tone //it has 470k -2 mark on it if it tell you and while both tone got just 470k please reply on my mail if you got time /thanks mitja slovenia
Hi. So only if you "ground" two components together, say the volume and tone pots, and then connect each individually to the negative output pin, then you get a ground loop? ie. like having 2 electronic devices connected to common ground (say, same outlet) and interconnect them with a cable that has a grounding wire, right? Of course voltages and paths to ground are not the same in both cases but they appear to be relative... So maybe even if a ground loop is present in a guitar, it has negligible effect on tone? Can you clarify this please? Thanks...
Ground loops are not possible in a passive electric guitar. Period.
@@DylanTalksTone Thank you for taking the time and respond to my comment! So, the key here is the character of the system, and because it's passive no ground loops can occur even if the connections exist... Thanks!
Love your mith busting videos😄👍🏻, why is everyone splitting their humbuckers when parallel gives you the same sound and is noise canceling?😳😑🎸
a) it's not quite the same sound, albeit close.
b) the switching to parallel is more complex. You need one dual switch per humbucker while one dual switch can split two humbuckers.
c) the impedance change to parallel is such that tone controls barely work anymore. They become noticeably active only at the end of their course, say between 1 and 4.
On the positive side, a parallel humbucker should have more high end than a split one.
Woo-hoo! Thanks, Dylan!
Just a quick question. What guitar are you traveling with?
we showed in the last video I think ... 3 of them
@@DylanTalksTone oops! Missed that one. Thanks, I'll have to watch that one.
If you add a wire between potentiometer and switch, still ground loop isn't possible?
It is not possible ever in a passive guitar, if you do what you wrote (assuming you mean from pot case to switch ground) you'll just have another connection point, but electrically nothing changes because they would be grounded through the plate anyways. Ground loop can only exist in powered devices with different ground potentials
Why did they design the plate with one pot so close to the switch? Has anyone made a plate with that hole moved about a quarter inch?
RockRabbit telecaster control plate.
i use a empty box as my soldering jig but anything works
I don,t use Tone Knob can I just not put one in the Circuit?
Yep. Just go direct out from your volume pot to tour output jack. That'll make one less component to impede your signal or pickup any external noise. Your signal will be all the more pure.
That background music when you're talking is really distracting. I'm the guy in college that studied with no music or tv on though, so I get distracted easily by noise. Also, your AC started right when I picked up my guitar, and I thought the sound was from my amp lol (one computer speaker is by my amp). Anyway, thanks for the informative video!
Your premise on grounding is skewed, because you do not take in to account oxidization ....which mean every metal is subject to corrosion of some sort over time when exposed to the atmosphere. SO you do need to physically solder a grounding bus to every ground so it terminates at the jack ground. The JACK itself would then become the wear and tear point of a ground system since it is a mechanical ground by contact with the lead wire linking the guitar to the amp and thus the amp's chassis ground and again with a mechanical contact ground. So those jacks exposed to the atmosphere eventually corrode out with oxidization of the metal. Its best to use a bore brush for a gun barrel as a cleaner for the jacks to knock out the corrosions and polish up the metal for that mechanical grounding situation....every so often. This is the difference between a proper ground in electronics......when you solder a grounding situation....the solder FUSES the 2 metal components together by FUSION.......though you are not welding....you are not melting the metals and then they mix and cool as one as a different form of FUSION. Soldering with solder is similar to brazing in a welding situation where you use a brass brazing rod to join 2 metals that would accept brazing.......and now with aluminum there are effectively aluminum rods that can be melted to fuse 2 aluminum parts together without actually going in to the official process to weld aluminum......which is way different than welding ferrous metals. But anyway.....contact mechanical grounds are not what you want in electronics.....or even crimp on terminals to wires for connections. In automobiles, its the designed obsolensence situation with a vehicles wiring harness......they are not soldered terminals but a bunch of crimp ons that go bad in time as with age.....hence the design to go bad aspect of the concept of designed obsolesence as a philosophy. Copper wires, its intrinsic that the copper gets brittle with age and tends to break......and that can be increased when the wire which has a bit of resistance is subject to heating and cools...or expansion and contractions over time as it ages..... When TV electronics evolved to the early solid state age, it was not uncommon for failures to surface based on cracked circuit boards......but not that they were damaged by dropping or an impact.....it was the heating and cooling and the expansion and contraction. The one method used to track a cracked board was to spray a coolant on the circuit boards to contract the board and cause the crack to bridge back together from the contraction and make a mechanical contact......which then would thus act up as the cold board warmed back up. In the vacuum tube days.....it was bad solder joints because of either the leads were not clean when soldered or that the soldering process did not reach heat for a good fusion and thus a cold joint. The bad solder joints didn't always manifest till the set had some age on it....hence some oxidatiion build up. These were design defects and assembly line defects in manufacturing and quality control........
lol at least you have the time.... but no
@@DylanTalksTone Everything is great when its brand new. I deal with service and repair of old stuff. SO once the oxidations set in...you can clean it but it comes back fast. once the "infection" starts. Electricians use NAALOX for service panels and the aluminum wire since it oxidizes the fastest and worst. Oxidation doesn't ride the surface...it penetrates in to an extent as a situation of metalurgy. My home town makes stainless steel. My background is that I grew up in a family business, my father had a home appliance store and was a RCA dealer among other brands.....going back to the consumer beginning of TV in the late 1940's. You have to approach it as dealing with chrome guitar hardwares VS black coated hardwares that became popular for a period of time......and the issue of grounding and in particular the string grounding......just a microscopic layer was enough to create the issue..... When you ground a pot lug to the pot body.....thats fine, but the pot itself is a mechanical contact being mounted by tightening the nut. SO its either the pot metal or the brass...and that oxidizes. Just run the bus bar off the pot body to the jack ground...and any other subsequent grounds can be tapped to the grounding bus. Your grounds ultimately have to get back to the amplifer chassis ground....with the least amount of introduced resistance in the chain...since the chain is a contact ground with the guitar wire lead......without going in to the issue of capacitance in the wire lead...whether its a straight wire or a coiled wire. Whats your concept of ELECTRON FLOW.....internal or surface ???
Heat doesn't happen in YOUR guitar... Lol. Thanks for the tips!
you should pre tin your wires as well as the tabs and your connections will shine like chrome
Thanks for this video 👍
Cleared up some stuff for me.
Please keep your videos like this and not turn into a super hyper Media produced UA-cam-channe.
Really like the honest “ one man talks guitars and tech” thing👍👍
Hey Dylan. I found this interesting. ua-cam.com/video/PgLWLGHDs80/v-deo.html he gaussed and deguaussed this Strat pickup and not only did it affect the output (duh), the increased magnetism made it ‘harsher’ and decreased magnetism made it ‘sweeter’ to my ears. Was this just because of the change in output, or would it change the frequency curve and resonant frequency of the pickup too (what I thought I was hearing)? 😉
The reduced output makes it push the amp less hard and introduce less harmonics as it begins to distort. It doesn't alter the frequency response of the pickup, but altering how hard it hits the amplifier will give that impression.
Turning the gain down or backing of the volume has a similar effect, although you may want a treble bleed as rolling off the volume does reduce the Q of your pickup. This may or may not be desirable. I prefer a treble bleed and a gentle (22nF) tone pot so I can dial this in reasonably independently.
I'd rather have a pickup that was a little hot and bright that could be dialed back, as it's very hard to go the other way, and what sounds good solo gets buried live or in a recording.
Your weakest point is where the solder wicks up a stranded wire. At the point where the solder ends is a fracture point but again, with no movement it isn't an issue. Perhaps in 50 years you might develop issues but more likely it's when users various take their guitar to bits to explore.
...um, background music is distracting. Great content though!
There's a rumor that there is some benefit to twisting wires in that it is something they used to do before there was shielded wire. There's a minimum number of twists per inch to get the benefit, which I can't remember right off hand, but the one wire twisted around the other is said to behave as a shield that could potentially cancel some hum. Probably no noticeable benefit in a shielded control cavity, but in a big old hollow body electric? I don't know, maybe. I've only wired two guitars, Man. Just going off of stuff I read on the internet.
I’ve been in telecommunications for 30 years. Twisting pairs of wire to reduce interference is vital in voice and data cables. The more twists the better. Not sure if this is necessary with guitar wiring. I’m interested to see if there are opinions about it.
@@richardmorris363 I can tell you that one of the two guitars I wired was an unshielded hollow body and that i did twist the wires. I also used low output pickups to keep it from feeding back because I knew high output pickups might be a problem in that situation. Never tried it any other way, but the way I did it doesn't hum much at all.
Thanks for this video. So tired of explaining to jumped up morons that a ground loop isn't what they think it is.
Guitar CCTs are primitive. How you set that control plate up it is impossible to get a ground loop. That being said after 35 years Plus in the telecommunications/Data/Transmission industry avoiding ground-loops has become second nature also it makes fault finding when things break or go wrong easier. Where we live with its humidity no sane tech would use cloth (prehistoric junk) wire as it will eventually short seasonally with measurable resistance at low voltage and current. Modern lead free solder is a PITA to work with especial if you do not know what you are doing. Don't get me started on NOS parts I have a junk draw full of the stuff (out of spec failed parts)...
I envy your new mobile life
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Hi, What you are saying is misleading and not technically correct. First of all, by using a metal plate on a Tele and letting the plate carry the ground instead of soldering wires onto all of the controls you ARE star grounding the guitar. Star grounding means that there is only one path to the jack ground that you have mentioned. As far as ground loops are concerned, I have actually caused ground loops in a few of my guitars by shielding the control cavity with copper tape but leaving the ground wires connected to the back of the controls, thereby creating more than one path to ground. You will not notice this much if you are plugged into a Fender twin with the volume on less than 8, but in a high gain amp situation you will hear a tremendous difference. Don't tell people that ground loops are a myth, just give them the proper information that there should only be one path to ground.
What's the "Boycott Beyonce" t-shirt about?
Because she’s amazing and a genius. Google it.
@@DylanTalksTone ha! She IS pretty cool!
You are wrong with no difference in ground potential, it is scientifically impossible. Wether it makes a difference in audible noise level, it is another story
This guy is dead on right with ground info !!
Glad you made it back for another one
One thing that would make you more professional, and probably improve your work...an Astros cap. LOL
You are 40 minutes from my house.
Only time i solder a ground is when installing to a wood cavity like in my spectors (active pre amps and or pickups)