@@cynthiamueller675 Hi Cynthia, I had a question - is this Larry Meuller located in San Antonio, and if he is, is he still doing repads for other woodwinds as well?
I use a razor blade cardboard cover folded in half to prop open the upper joint bridge key, rather than holding the F# key down while making my top joint adjustments.
This is really superb instruction on oboe repair, thank you very much! The only thing I need to point out is tapping your screw driver on the silver, doesn’t it scratch it?
Hi, I was probably focused on the content, using the screwdriver as a pointer, and yes, shouldn't have tapped on the keys like that. After many years of using this oboe, I've worn some plating off with my fingers, but the keys don't look noticeably scratched.
I have a l’oree Royal. Middle E is sharp. Any ideas how to adjust this. Low E is fine but when I press the octave key, it’s sharp. Tested same reed on my old loree and it’s fine.
The adjustment screw from the D key to the F resonance rocker key, can be tightened so that the D key doesn't come up as far. The F resonance will also raise less, but getting the middle E in tune is most important. You can lower the D key height quite a bit this way, until the E gets too stuffy in either octave, and then it's a bit too far. If that doesn't do enough, and you're adept at taking keys off, you can fill the tone hole a bit with nail polish or wax. The upper part (opening) of the hole effects the octave E with little effect on the lower octave. Put a little nail polish just below the rim of the hole, on the south (bell side) only, but don't fill in very deeply, just nearest the opening. You can get the middle E as low as you like, without making low E go flat. This is true of any of those right hand octave notes also, D,F#,G; they tend to feel sharper over time, as the bore changes. It may take as many as 2 or 3 layers of nail polish, and may require taking the oboe apart 2 or 3 times, before you're satisfied. Good luck.
Hi, it depends somewhat on the make of oboe, but generally something about 2.5 mm across. It should be a pretty good fit, especially in thickness, so it doesn't noticeably damage the screw slot. I'll regrind them a bit if necessary. If you do a lot of work, you'll appreciate something a bit longer, with a larger handle. Your hands will thank you over time. Leave the smaller ones for in the case, on the gig.
Hi, it could be a few things; the key got bent, the pad is too thick, or the adjustment screw over the octave key could use backing out. There could also be too thick of a key cork besides the pad itself, under the thumb lever, or around the adjustment screw.
What a sound! I think it's one of the best I've heard - beautiful tone!
Thanks! Depends on the speakers, I'm sure. It sounds really buzzy here!
@@cynthiamueller675 Hi Cynthia, I had a question - is this Larry Meuller located in San Antonio, and if he is, is he still doing repads for other woodwinds as well?
I use a razor blade cardboard cover folded in half to prop open the upper joint bridge key, rather than holding the F# key down while making my top joint adjustments.
Hi Chris. I’ve been known to do that too.
This is really superb instruction on oboe repair, thank you very much! The only thing I need to point out is tapping your screw driver on the silver, doesn’t it scratch it?
Hi, I was probably focused on the content, using the screwdriver as a pointer, and yes, shouldn't have tapped on the keys like that. After many years of using this oboe, I've worn some plating off with my fingers, but the keys don't look noticeably scratched.
I have a l’oree Royal. Middle E is sharp. Any ideas how to adjust this. Low E is fine but when I press the octave key, it’s sharp. Tested same reed on my old loree and it’s fine.
The adjustment screw from the D key to the F resonance rocker key, can be tightened so that the D key doesn't come up as far. The F resonance will also raise less, but getting the middle E in tune is most important. You can lower the D key height quite a bit this way, until the E gets too stuffy in either octave, and then it's a bit too far. If that doesn't do enough, and you're adept at taking keys off, you can fill the tone hole a bit with nail polish or wax. The upper part (opening) of the hole effects the octave E with little effect on the lower octave. Put a little nail polish just below the rim of the hole, on the south (bell side) only, but don't fill in very deeply, just nearest the opening. You can get the middle E as low as you like, without making low E go flat. This is true of any of those right hand octave notes also, D,F#,G; they tend to feel sharper over time, as the bore changes. It may take as many as 2 or 3 layers of nail polish, and may require taking the oboe apart 2 or 3 times, before you're satisfied. Good luck.
@@larrymueller4698 Thank you so much! I will try it.
What is the best size screwdriver to use to make adjustments?
Hi, it depends somewhat on the make of oboe, but generally something about 2.5 mm across. It should be a pretty good fit, especially in thickness, so it doesn't noticeably damage the screw slot. I'll regrind them a bit if necessary. If you do a lot of work, you'll appreciate something a bit longer, with a larger handle. Your hands will thank you over time. Leave the smaller ones for in the case, on the gig.
hello! I am having issues with my thumb octave. When I press it the cork pad doesnt raise up high enough. What should I do?
Hi, it could be a few things; the key got bent, the pad is too thick, or the adjustment screw over the octave key could use backing out. There could also be too thick of a key cork besides the pad itself, under the thumb lever, or around the adjustment screw.