7 Most Common Training Mistakes - Power Endurance
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- Опубліковано 23 кві 2023
- Training power endurance is the number one priority of sport climbers and trad climbers, and in some cases, boulderers. It usually is the make or break of a training plan, defining the effectiveness and success of the training season. However we have seen some major mistakes sabotaging endurance training and limiting its effectiveness to performing outside on real rock. In this video we cover each mistake so you can avoid them and have the most successful climbing season yet!
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I think my biggest endurance training mistake is that I plan to do it, but then end up doing limit boulders for 2 hours.
Jokes on me though. My endurance still sucks but I'm strong enough to get away with it if the route is less than 10-12 meters.
My suggestion is to write it down and find a friend to do it! So you will cheer on each other while resting. Of course, look for a friend that psyches you up for training and not for limit bouldering only. Finally, consider what are the motives for doing these type of trainings. Is it a route? Is it progression? How much do you care about it?
Sometimes people just don't realize that with these choices there come sacrifices (e.g. being able to do what you like only once a week). Anything is fine as long as you are prioritizing what is important for YOU! ☺
I find that falling training works extremely well during tapering periods as the climber feels more motivated to actually do them (hard without someone like a coach forcing you!).
much failure of endurance is from fear of falling, and developing a strong and healthy relationship with falling by purposeful, guided, and progressive exposure is essential. However, tell a climber who grabs at draws with any little pump to practice with a few falls and always, always resistance and a want to force this. Been trying to share your channel around as I think most mental aspects in climbing are not discussed enough.
@@zacharylaschober thank you very much! Unfortunately it requires much more discipline to do falling training, if you are scared, than any other type of training. That's why I would like to see fear of falling exercises to be scheduled as systematically as any other form of training. Otherwise is very easy to procrastinate!
Love this type of content, its acc surprisingly hard to find much on power endurance online.
Can definitely relate with most of those points, but I'd add 'zoning out' during sets where your technique and focus drops, which you dont want
Also pld add timestamps next time is rlly useful
I've just finished endurance training cycle, so I got really hesitant about watching this video. What if I wasted the whole month...? Luckily that wasn't the case. Great video, as always.
The title feels off in relation to the content of the video. Either way, very interesting.
Train falling on a rope- a very good advice! I never do that and always struggle at the beginning of the season. Also tapering the training is new to me. I always thought, 3 full days of recovery before a trip are sufficient 😕
Love the idea of fall training, I am very scared of falling!
think the biggest mistake in training any type of endurance is ignoring the tremendous influence technique, practice, and exposure have on the ability to be enduring as well as mistaking a route specific technique, practice, and exposure for growing endurance rather than economy of movement and reduction in anxiety on this one route.
However, good video and helps to expand while still being brief compared to the video you all did a couple years prior.
Fear of falling above the clips is a big thing for me so I am actively training that, first just climbing and falling on purpose and then try to make a move you are 90% sure you can't stick but still go for it. Resting is my biggest weakness, but somehow I am able to power trough small sections without rests where my friends take 5x longer to top... that being said it is something I need to practice for sure as sometime you might need to stop and re read the route etc.
I'm actually going on my very first climbing trip (overseas) next week and I took 3 months to try my best at conditionning myself for a type of rock I've never touched (steep limestone). I increased my max hang significantly, but cannot really measure what my endurance training did for me.
Also, I find it really hard to practice endurance training without climbing facilities. Half the year I only have access to a pull up bar, hangboard and regular fitness gym stuff.
Anyways, I look forward to that first trip in Manikia, Greece. Cheers, from Canada.
GL & HF !
Climb lots of moderate routes before you start projecting hard routes. Your endurance will quickly build up while you won't lose much strength. Once you adjusted to the rock and can read it better / climb more efficiently, you can start pushing the grades. Take proper rest days, despite being on a climbing trip where you want to climb as much as possible.
Enjoy Greece!
Pacing....definitely pacing!!!
Personally I don't think saying, "find how big a hold you need to rest your fingers" I think it's more important to be able to find the best rest per route's, and to try and determine by mean of fatigue on the wall where the best places to rest your fingers might be... Especially in the gym a lot of times it the same size holds all the way to the top.
so if you dont have climbing trips, you dont need power endurance?
bit confused as to why is that the limiting factor.. not sure if I learned anything about training power endurance..
How many of these have I done? What's the British equivalent of pleading the 5th?
Am I the only one staring at how that person is belaying like 10m away from the wall?
It must be freezing in that gym lol
Haha. Is this just a UK gym thing? We don't have heating in our centres so the gyms and our wall is usually just above outdoor temps.
@@LatticeTraining That's crazy. Do you guys at least have AC for the summer? Otherwise I imagine things could get pretty sweaty and smelly haha.
@@StpMakinMeChangMyNam No AC unfortunately
I've only climbed in a few gyms in the northeast US and I don't think I've ever seen someone with their jacket/coat on (even belaying). Create a poll and let us know what is the consensus worldwide 🙂