Mustang Cable Clutch Adjustment Mythbusting!
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- Опубліковано 29 вер 2024
- How to adjust your Mustang's cable clutch linkage. Mustang pivot ball stud length. People mess this up all the time, so I made a video to hopefully help people learn how to adjust their Mustang's clutch cable correctly, and how to know when you need a different pivot ball stud. Maladjustment is very common when people install McLeod RXT and RST clutches with a firewall adjuster, because the instructions are wrong. The same applies with how to adjust an RXT and RST clutch. If it's a cable linkage, there should be NO gap between the clutch fingers and the throw-out bearing. The gap is only needed with the cable disconnected to allow for adjustment as the clutch wears.
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I’ve got a 1977 fastback and having problems with getting the correct clutch cable can you help please
Wow. Mustang II? I'd try Napa.
I love how my mechanic wrote my mustang up for having clutch engagement too high on the pedal... he obviously doesnt know mustangs lol
Lube pivotball stud and throw out bearing shaft?
Grease the pivot ball stud, but most new throw-out bearings are lightly lubricated from the factory. Otherwise, but a *light* coating of grease on the bearing sleeve. Better yet: Molycote.
Hi I bought a new edge 03 gt and it’s a stage 3 clutch previous owner told me and I have a feeling something is wrong with it cause it doesn’t make my car stall it still on.
Sorry, I don't understand your question.
I have 1989 Mustang with a t5. Installing a new mcloud street pro clutch do I need a different size pivot and it also came with a bronze pilot bearing do I use a ford racing one? Pls help
The factory pivot ball should be fine. I'd use a roller bearing (Ford Racing), but either should be fine.
@@Mustang-Geek thanks saved me tons of time!
@@boxer280225 Great!
I have a 94 mustang gt, about 5 years ago the TOB went out so we replaced everything. We got a stage 1 clutch kit and then we got the steeda 3 way adjustable clutch cable. Now while driving its like the clutch is engaging when i give it gas sometimes without me pushing the clutch, last time this happened the clutch needed adjusted, but honestly been ripped off by so many "mechanics" in my area i just want to do it myself. I found how to do the adjustment at the firewall but i am trying to figure out how i adjust the quadrant as well any suggestions?
If your cable is adjustable (down by the fork) AND/OR you have a firewall adjuster, adjust the clutch cable length (longer) or screw the fire wall adjuster IN until there is slack in the cable. Then to back on the adjustment(s) until there is no slack in the cable. Check for proper clutch release: (1) Select Neutral and depress the clutch. (2) Start the engine. (3) Select Reverse. If the transmission grinds going into Reverse, the clutch is not releasing enough, and you need to tighten up the cable.
@Mustang-Geek thank you I will give it a try
@@jessicascism891 You got this! Let me know how it goes.
@@Mustang-Geekdoes the stock cable have any adjustment at all? My throw out bearing (I think) makes a noise whenever my pedal is depressed, it’s a brand new ford performance throw out bearing, I really don’t want to have to take out my whole transmission again. I have long tubes lol
@@luisuribe5432 Pull up on the pedal. If it has a factory quadrant, it will self-adjust.
I have an MMR quadrant, cable, and firewall adjuster along with a RAM 10.5 dual disc clutch and I have one of the worst feeling clutch take-ups known to mankind.
I'm assuming my cable is too tight because the clutch grabs at the very top of the pedal. But should I loosen the cable at the clutch fork instead of the firewall adjuster?
And what's really weird is that it'll feel like it's grabbing halfway up the pedal, the car will drop RPMs like the clutch is grabbing, yet when I give it gas it's like I'm riding the clutch up until it grabs at the very top and then pulls out like normal. Yet if I don't ride the clutch at that halfway mark when the clutch engages, it'll stall out before I can lift the clutch all the to the top?
The pedal effort is actually surprisingly light for a cable clutch. It reminds me of my last cars McLeod RXT hydraulic clutch. I love the pedal feel, just HATE the take-up on it.
I'm hoping maybe you can give me some insight on where to start first.
Interesting. It's possible that the cable was too tight and you "overstroked" the pressure plate. Regardless, try loosening the clutch cable and see how it does. I'd loosen it at the fork first, then make fine adjustments at the firewall. Check to make sure that it's releasing fully using the following procedure:
1) Put clutch in.
2) Start engine.
3) Select first gear.
4) Select neutral.
5) Wait five seconds.
6) Select reverse. If you hear a "clunk," then the clutch isn't releasing all the way. Tighten the cable.
My clutch only engages when I’m almost at the very top of clutch and when I go into third I hear a loud cluck noise & have vibration do you know what that could be ?
If it engages at the top of the pedal travel, then the cable is too loose, or the clutch is worn out. Regarding the clunk, that may be drive shaft related.
I’ve got a 96’ Cobra with a TKO600, QuickTime Bell Bousing, and a McLeod clutch and have been fighting adjustment issues for awhile. I think I might need a shorter pivot ball because the clutch fork is as far back as it can go with the cable off.
If the bearing is still riding the clutch fingers with the cable disconnected, then yes, you need a shorter pivot ball.
I have a Factory 5 cobra, 351windsor stock. I've gone through 2 throwout bearing. My clutch pedal very hard, and when I adjust cable so I have very little pressure on pedal it won't go into gear. So after some adjustments so I can shift my pedal is hard again. Need advice. Do I have the wrong pivet ball ? Thanks
Hmmmmm. What clutch quadrant do you have?
after installing my new adjustable Ford performance cable the clutch doesn't want to engage, we tightened it to the max then we put the car in gear with the clutch pedal down and the car doesn't want to roll forward. we also untightened and still the same results. car doesn't wanna roll forward in gear with the pedal down after its been adjusted multiple times.
I'm sorry, I don't fully understand. Are you saying the clutch doesn't release or it doesn't grab?
Every time I press the clutch a strange noise goes away and TOB is spinning with the pressure plate ..so that’s normal???.. 1985 Ford F-150 4x4 4.9 no return spring on the fork for the clutch
Not sure what the clutch setup on a truck is. If there's no slop in the linkage, then the TOB likely needs to be replaced.
Possible front bearing, input to mainshaft bearing countershaft bearing. check the lube level.
Pretty helpful. I assume that if the clutch engages right off the floor and you have to tighten the cable then you have to loosen the cable if it’s engaging at the top of the pedal, which is my issue. I just installed an adjustable Steeda kit in my Cobra and the clutch doesn’t grab until almost the very top of the pedal travel.
That is correct!
Hey guys here trying to figure what to do with mine.. it is also grabbing way way at the top almost when you're foot comes off. Mine is a 97 cobra, new clutch, throw out bearing, and pilot bearing.. I think it has an adjustable BBK cable with the threaded locking nut under it but stock at the firewall. Would I just loosen that? Got the car blown up and just rebuilt the motor and now troubleshooting the new clutch it has 2 miles on it literally
@@jmitchell513try spinning the firewall adjuster all the way in the other direction and see if it makes a difference and just fine tune it from there. If you’re not seeing any difference there’s probably another issue going on like the cable binding up somewhere.
Have you ever heard of pulling the clutch pedal up towards you in order to "actuate" the adjuster to decrease cable slack?
Yes, but that's with the factory self-adjusting linkage.
So I've got a fwd. No mods all stock. Just replaced clutch, pressure plate and tob. I've got about a half inch or so of free play in the pedal. My issue is I believe the fork is pushing the fingers on the pressure plate to far cause the clutch center casing to rub on the inside of the pressure plate fingers. My original stock clutch failed do to the same issue I'm guessing. By adjusting the push rod will this help remove fork travel? Or should I add a stopper to the pedal to keep it from being fully depressed. As it only happens with the pedal to the floor if I let off slightly the sound stops
Sorry, I have no idea on cars other than Mustangs. Get a service manual for your car and go from there.
I’ve got a 1996 Cobra that is making some whirling noises when I press the clutch pedal in, but only after driving for about 30 minutes. It’s got a Ram HDX clutch kit with Ford throwout and pilot bearings, and a BBK adjustable cable, quadrant, and firewall adjuster that all have around 50k miles on them since i had them installed years back (I sold the car 8 years ago and luckily just bought it back so I’m not sure what all the previous owners since me have put it through). Could the cable being too tight cause the throwout bearing to make that type of sound or is it basically known that once it starts making noise it’s time to replace it regardless? I’d hate to put $1000 into another clutch kit if it just needs an adjustment but I also don’t want to make it worse by playing with it
If it makes a whirring noise when you press the clutch, it's likely the throwout bearing.
Why does my clutch get super hard and won’t move at all then it loosens and starts working again
Sorry, I don't understand the issue. That seems strange.
Mine engages right off the floor, but i don't have that adjustment on the firewall. What can i do?
Get a firewall adjuster. Really...it's the best solution.
@@Mustang-Geek do I have to get a different clutch cable?
@@richardbarnes4699 Honestly, just get this kit and be done with it: www.maximummotorsports.com/Not-currently-available-See-MMCP-52-Clutch-Cable-Quadrant-and-Firewall-Adjuster-Package-P385.aspx
thanks for your video.
What happens if I got every single step right except for having a longer pivot stud on a stock set up? i assume just more travel and different cable set up? car has driven fine just engages tiny past halfway 3x2.5x2.5 inch dorman 14367
You should be fine, but do this check: disconnect the clutch cable and make sure the fork can go back to the rear of the car. You don't want the clutch fork running out of travel and not fully releasing. Does that make sense?
You know what this makes sense cause I have an 03 Mach 1 with a T56, with an RST twin disc and put on the extended pivot ball and now the car WILL NOT CRANK!!! You can even feel the fork not moving or giving any sort of slack which is NOT good and yes the TO bearing will be fine on the teeth I have been fighting with constant adjustments but after watching this video I know what to do!! So I said fuck the extended pivot ball and I’m going back to the OE pivot ball and gonna slap some grease on there and adjust the cable just enough to have some contact with the teeth then call it a day. I’ve just been fighting with constant chirping and thought it was my brand new bearing nope…. Because if some steps are missed during reassembly things can and will make ugly noises so whenever you putting the pivot ball back on or even the TO bearing onto the sleeve just add a slight amount of grease this keeps friction and noise down but DONT GLOB THE SHIT UP JUST ENOUGH FOR EVERYTHING TO WORK PROPERLY AND SAFELY
Sounds like you're on the right track, @@zachgagne2664 !
I will be sticking with Ford's Shop Service Manual. They made the car so they know better than ANYONE.
This is for Mustangs with aftermarket clutch adjustment.
Aftermarket clutch adjusters are so you can adjust pedal to your liking instead of living with clutch releasing where it wants and durability reasons such as aluminium or steel replacing plastic parts. This vid should be removed based on bad advice to ignore manufacturer install instructions.@@Mustang-Geek
I have a 02 gt and the clutch engages on the floorboard haha I have a factory firewall piece is that adjustable?
No, but try pulling up on the clutch pedal. It should "self adjust." If not, get this setup and be done with it: www.maximummotorsports.com/Clutch-Cable-Quadrant-and-Firewall-Adjuster-Package-P385.aspx
My clutch fork on my 89 Saleen is about mid center but seems lose and makes slight contact with the bellhousing making a rattling noise. If I tighten the cable it goes away but afraid to make it too tight. My clutch releases mid=center towards the top with no grinding issues, just that annoying chatter from the fork bouncing of the bellhousing. The bottom of the fork is making contact with the bellhousing vertically up and down.
If the fork is contacting the "window" in the bell housing, something is very wrong. I suspect one of two things: fork is disconnected from the pivot ball, or the release bearing sleeve is broken, and not centering the TOB anymore. Use a flashlight to look inside and see what's up. You might be able to reconnect the fork to the pivot ball by disconnecting the cable and sliding the fork out to reattach it to the pivot ball. Worst case, just remove the trans and get to the bottom of it. Something will be obvious when you get it out.
@@Mustang-Geek thank you. I'll check that out. I did notice I can pull the lever out a little but wasn't sure if it was supposed to be that way. Worst case I'll remove the trans and inspect thoroughly. Thank you.
@@johnlocklear Yes, if you take the transmission out something will be obvious!
Same exact thing happens to me a few years back. It was the bearing retainer that the t/o bearing slides on. It broke around the base and the sleeve was rattling around causing the fork to vibrate and rattle on the bell housing. Noisy and super annoying.
@@JoanWilder1985 I check mine yesterday and the cable had some slack in it. I tightened it up and it is sitting center now. Clutch releases at the top more now but doesn't rattle. I'm going to go through and replace the clutch and all this winter. It's only driven a few days a month if that.
I’ve got an 04 Cobra and my throwout bearing recently exploded. So new throwout bearing is in and I’m in a dilemma on how I should adjust the clutch cable. It seems like no matter what I do I can’t tighten this cable enough by hand to avoid getting locked out of gears at high rpm. If I hold the cable itself with vice grips and turn the firewall adjuster counterclockwise it’ll let me into the next gear at high rpm but I’m afraid to leave it this way incase it wears out the new throwout bearing prematurely
That sounds like a really complex issue. What brand adjuster and cable are you using?
@@Mustang-Geek sr performance adjuster and maximum Motorsports oem style cable
@@jakelogan630 Which quadrant?
@@Mustang-Geek ford performance double hook. The cable is set on the first hook
@@jakelogan630 Try the cable on a different hook, or get the MM quadrant.
I Have 800 whp built 2v with t56 swap
I guess ill get TOB to engage while in neutral slightly and give it 3-4 turn on adjustment so it has around 5lbs of preload on the pressure plate fingers?
That sounds about right. Just take up all the slack.
I have a 03 gt with a t56 swap as well. If I pull hard on the clutch cable I have gap about the width of a dime, does that seem right?
@@otisdriftwood8469 Yes, that's fine. There shouldn't be any free play without tugging on it.
@@Mustang-Geek ty
Does anyone have any idea how.much the fork should move and stock resting spot?
There should be NO slack.
@@WesDuenkel I should have been more specific.. how far the clutch fork moves forward from resting position when you push the clutch peddle all the way down.. I'm converting to a hydraulic clutch on a v8 ranger using a foxbody t5, and needing to know how far the stock setup moves when you push the peddle in
@@19jody72 Oh, sorry. I'll have to measure. I won't be able to do that for a few more weeks.
wow i was amazed when you put the clutch to the floor by hand, my clutch has given me nothing but issues and is literally about impossible to depress by hand, any tips? its an oem style Luk clutch and were pulling to rebuild the trans friday since its seemingly got a bad input shaft bearing
Use this kit: www.maximummotorsports.com/Not-currently-available-See-MMCP-52-Clutch-Cable-Quadrant-and-Firewall-Adjuster-Package-P385.aspx
@@Mustang-Geekis $210 right? i have a UPR kit are they not any good
@@Mustang-Geek and also the clutch feel is awful like notchy and crunchy, i replaced the cable adjusted and lubed it but to no avail
@@Mustang-Geek i feel like for that price i should just convert it to hydraulic lol
@@CX2003GT Replace the input shaft bearing retainer.
I have an '02 GT with the tr3650 with about 144k miles...according the previous owner they put in an exedy stage 2 clutch and lightened flywheel at about 107k. Recently its been a little hard getting into 1st when the engine is on at a stop...and sometimes i get locked out of 2nd at high RPMs. It has a firewall adjuster so i turned it counterclockwise a bit and it seems to be better now. The clutch used to engage almost at the floor but now its about 3 inches off the floor...and isnt as stiff. This adjustment should be okay right?
Make sure that the clutch is fully disengaging. With the engine running and the trans in neutral, push the clutch in. Select first. Select neutral. Select reverse. If you hear a "clunk," then the clutch isn't releasing all the way. Tighten the cable slightly.
@@Mustang-Geek I will give it a shot, thank you so much for your reply
@@MarclenChin Please like and subscribe!
@@Mustang-Geek tighten as in counter clockwise ?
@@rhowe154 Yes.
03 mustang gt. Whining noise sitting in neural, if I rest my foot on the clutch the noise stops? Also has been grinding from 2nd to 3rd once this started happening? Any idea? Previous owner said clutch is 7-8k miles old along w TOB
I’d take it all apart and check the pilot bearing. When you put it back together, take your time and pay attention. Don’t trust that the person who had it before you knew what they were doing!
You ever figure it out I have this same thing going on on rn in mine
@@trevlikescarssold the car couple months back. Either my 3rd gear synchro was bad or the pilot bearing I believe
@@Troy-hp9et thank you bro I appreciate it that pretty much confirms that’s the issue that’s what I had been thinking it was.
@@trevlikescars also the throw out bearing. Change it all out pilot and throw out if doing a clutch.
My car wont go into gear after changing the clutch cable while its running. Idk what the issue is but its driving me nuts.
Adjust the clutch cable tighter. Is this with a factory clutch quadrant?
@@Mustang-Geek I already solved the issue. The clutch was slid off the pivot.
@@crimsonkings205 That would do it!
great video but where did you learn it from?
Paying attention, previous mistakes, and years of experience :)
@@Mustang-Geek thanks for putting it out there.
He pulled it out of his dumb ass.
I know this isn’t related to the video but can you please help me . I have a 1986 mustang and none of my gauges are working at all. Do you have any idea what could cause this or what to check ? Please help me
I'd start by checking the fuses and ground.
@@Mustang-Geek ok thank you
96 mustang furniture 96 mustang GT clutch adjustment
Keep it random!
What causes the peddle to stay on the floor when powershifting.
Yikes. I don't know, but that's a failure of some kind.
@@Mustang-Geek everything Brand new and supposed to be Quality Strip performance Ram Clutch! The first time I thought I missed second, when it happened the second time, I realized the peddle was staying on the floor, it comes slamming back when the power is lifted. I know it is a problem with the Clutch. The old Clutch had 4 years and about 1000 passes on it without any problem.
@@mylanmiller9656 Hmmm. Try calling RAM to see if they have any ideas!
Thank you!
You bet. I'm so tired of seeing people set it up wrong, and tell people wrong things.
Good info boss 🔧🚗💪👍💯🇺🇲
Bad info. 35 year transmission tech. Never ignore manufacturer instructions.
I never knew the TO bearing was supposed to be constantly touching. Always had it with an airgap, I guess i thought constant contact would wear it out.
Nope, that won't wear it out. It's designed to work that way.
wrong. only hydro clutches have zero. The fact that you instruct people to not follow instructions just show your ignorance. 35 year transmission tech. Not all TO bearings are made for constant pressure and rotation. Stop the misinformation and the instructing to ignore manufacturers recommendations. @@Mustang-Geek
@@fastnasty6627 1979-2004 Mustangs use a cable clutch and came from the factory with a spring-loaded pawl to keep tension on the cable. Therefore, every 1979-current (that's over forty years now) factory Mustang is designed to have slight pressure on the release bearing. But, you do you!