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- Опубліковано 14 чер 2020
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💦Sump pump fails #flooding 🌊 basement with MOLD!
• 💦Sump pump failure 🌊FL...
This video shows a poor judgment of location and elevation for building a home. It is standard in the building trades to look at the elevation and swales of landscaping to prevent water penetration in the basement. This is a tri-level design, improperly built near a pond with improper elevation of the water table.
This 20-year-old home was built with footing tiles and a sump pit with a sump pump to control the ground water. This pump also includes a battery backup due to the extreme chances of power outage & failure. Unfortunately, due to the elevation & water table, the sump pump continuously runs every 1 to 2 minutes and this can be a very costly expense to owning this particular home. It can be a risky situation with the failure of water control which can cause flooding & mold damages in the basement areas.
ADDITIONAL INFORMATION: Ground Water Control
In most cases, water penetration into a #basement or #crawlspace can be controlled at the exterior by directing water away from the #foundation. Remember, roof areas will capture a lot of rainwater and dump it right next to the foundation. In addition, driveways patios and sidewalks that may have settled towards the house foundation will also retain and discharge large volumes of #water towards the basement/crawlspaces.
Here is a list of common homeowner remedies for controlling ground water in the basement:
• Install eaves troughs (must be cleaned and checked periodically)
• Install down spouts to direct #rain #water away from the house foundation
• Positive grade (landscaping) away from the foundation
• Seal cracks in foundation
• Concrete lifting (mud jacking) - consult with professional concrete contractor.
• Inspect for pooling water next to the foundation on the exterior during rainy days. If you find any, plan for landscaping and positive grading to direct the water away.
Homes built with footing tiles and/or sump pump pits are typically found installed in homes dating back to the 1960/70’s. Footing tiles are installed two ways depending on the elevation of the foundation. For example; in walkout basements the footing tiles will drain water away from the house to the lowest point using natural flow. Whereas, the other option is using a sump pit which brings the footing tile ground water into the sump pit and using a pump to eject the ground water out of the sump pit. At the discharge location just outside the foundation it is recommended for an additional tile to be installed into the landscaping to continue the water flowing away from the house foundation.
Homes that are built on or near high water table, flood planes or natural water springs typically rely on tiles and sump pits with pumps to continuously maintain the water level which protects the house structure from mold damage.
Homes with high volume use of sump pumps require more attention to ensure the security of its function. Sump pumps are known to fail for many reasons such as floaters, mechanics & power outages. It is recommended to have emergency backups for the sump pumps. Auxiliary pumps can be installed with the use of batteries but the battery only lasts for so long. If you have city water, there is another option; it is component that allows backflow pressure by using city water pressure to push water out of the sump pit.
ADDITIONAL INFORMATION: #mold
Exposure to mold & mold spores can cause a range of allergic reactions such as eye irritation, runny nose, sore throat, sneezing, nasal and sinus congestion, coughing, sneezing, difficulty breaking, rhinitis asthmatic episodes, headaches & fatigue.
Molds act as nature’s decomposers breaking down organic matter, and can be many colors - white, orange, green, or black. Molds release spores into the air, which then enter our homes through windows, doors, cracks, and vents. Old spores can also be carried in on clothing pets and foot traffic. 1 type of black mold is called Stachybotrys. It is rare, white or greenish-black to black mold that grows on materials with high cellulose content that has been wet for several days. Cellulose rich materials include drywall, wood, paper, and drop ceiling tiles.
The best way to control mold is to control the moisture. Stopping the source of the water or humidity is the most important step in cleanup and prevention.
©copyright 1999 - 2020 John Frejeris
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#inspection
#home #house #construction #contractor #builder #maintenance #viralvideos #viralvideo #viral #fail #fails
Beautiful home but wow thats a lot of water. Id need a high water alarm, a spare pump and a generac just to sleep at night.
Nightmare waiting to happen when the power goes out longer than the batteries can power the backup system for
What sump pump battery backup would you recommend?
If that 1 pump fails they are in big trouble.
Hi, quick question. I bought a property last year in august, when I did the inspection I saw the sump pump in the basement, good working condition. I move in day oct last year everything was good until say like dec or jan this year. I notice the sump pump started coming on every like 40 mins. Now is like every 15-20 mins. I went down and inspect it today. I see water coming into the sump pit very slowly water looks clean but I don’t know where it’s coming from. We recently had all those snow storm north east, I was thinking I wait for summer time and see if it continues running cause I’m thinking maybe it’s seasonal. Should I be worried? Because I am getting concerned.
Thanks for watching the video and for the question . As a home owner, you should always be aware of all the components of your home and sump pumps can be a big one. Your assessment sounds about right with "seasonal" . And yes, their was alot of snow then melt off. So, depending on location of where a house is built with its local weather conditions it can determine the use of a sump pit. I see sump pits that have been dry the whole time, some that are used nonstop and some that are seasonal. I recommend to all my clients to "monitor and control" any sump pit. Also to be prepared for backup plans of pump failures and ground water control. There is some very good detailed description and recommendations below the video under "ADDITIONAL information " please view them. Thanks again and ask anytime.
@@inspectflix I notice there is like drill holes in the sump pit, only one of them in the bottom is bringing in clear clean water. I’m guessing it’s ground water. I will with till summer and see if anything changes. Thanks a lot of the input.
@@osas201 sounds very normal, no need to worry about it, its doing it's job
The neglected look of that pump and piping makes me cringe. And people wonder why they get flooded basements.
When it rains heavily here in Indiana, my new house's sump pump will run every 30 seconds for a few days, is this okay?
Lots of water comes in through the footing tile and there are some leaked in the basement that i patched mostly.
Thanks for watching and for the question. Sorry i didnt reply sooner, ive been away from my computer and cell phone. The good news is, your sump pit is doing what it's suppose to. But it sounds like an elevation and location situation . Sometimes Clay in the soil around the foundation, can retain water too. However, most homeowners don't realize that a roof will capture a lot of water and discharge it next to the foundation, finding its way to the footing tiles. Rain gutters are recommended (and must be kept clean) also down spouts should be extended away from the foundation. The soil grading around the foundation should slope away, to direct large volumes of water away from the foundation. 90% of the time you can prevent water in the basement and your sump pump use by directing water away at the exterior. I hope this information helps you.
Micah, I'm basically down here in Terre Haute and have a home that was built back in like 1920 or 1930 with original basement walls being comprise of old vitrified clay tile (it's a kiln-fired rigid ceramic block with horizontal voids). It's a 900 square foot home with a basement of about that same footage that had 2 entire sides of it rebuilt 2 Novembers ago because where the house sits, it deals with a lot of water (both on the surface and in the subsurface from a moderately-high water table, a result of lacking effective drainage; it also suffers from bad elevation with little-to-no drop in many places to take water away). I've done a lot of work with it for the past 10 years, including the addition of 2 external 4" footing drain lines outside of my 2 new basement walls (I used corrugated-perforated black pipe with pea gravel back-fill against the new walls along with an additional sump pump to pump it all out and eject the inbound water from the perimeter drain lines out and away from the home via an 8" street rainwater drain line). I also have an additional 8" drain line being installed by the city within the next couple weeks behind my house with a surface grate to remove surface pooling which will intersect the one out by the street. (The city is paying for it, too, which is nice because I showed them that the proximity of my property was fighting water I had no control over as much was coming from other properties I didn't own or that the city owned.)
For you, every 30 minutes for 2 entire days AFTER the rain has stopped sounds a bit much to me. By that point, it should be more like every 15-20 minutes if not more, but some of this just depends on how much rain you get or what kind of drainage, elevation, etc. exist that you deal with.
My house sits on soil that consists of what they call "clay loam" (which is a fancy term used to describe high clay-based soils, which really sucks as the percolation is almost nonexistent in these kinds of substrates, meaning, it retains water for longer periods of time). Chances are, you deal with this, too as most of Indiana suffers from this.
When we get "heavy rains" where I am (think anything above a 1/2" worth of rainfall rate in the span of no more than 30 minutes if not less), it can still take awhile for both of my 2 sump pumps to increase their pump cycle frequency as it often takes awhile for the ground to reach a saturation point that increases their frequency. In this scenario of the 1/2" of rainfall, and assuming the ground is ALREADY full saturated, it can cause both pumps to kick on every 5-6 minutes or so. There's a lot to it, but the 1 pump that I have connected to the external footing drainage outside of my 2 new walls will usually be the one to kick on more frequently as the water it deals with comes in quicker due to the effective pea gravel back-fill sitting on top of the 2 lines it's connected to outside of my new walls. The other sump pit (which handles various drain lines and surface grates inside my basement throughout various points in my slab that the original builders installed) often kicks on at the same intervals once the ground reaches full saturation as it deals with a lot of water that comes in underneath the slab (basement floor) that I haven't dealt with yet with drainage outside in my yard or along the footing levels of the other remaining older walls that still exist. But the moment the rain stops outside is the moment that the clock begins to increase for how long the pump cycle windows get. So for example, if we get 1" worth of rainfall in the span of about a half hour (which is pretty heavy) and assuming the ground is fully saturated by then, but the rain then stops after that one hour, the 2 pumps will likely have cycles of every 2-5 minutes for at least 3-5 hours but their rest periods will begin to sequentially increase as by hour 24, it will likely be somewhere between 10-15 minutes or so. After 48 hours of no rain, that cycle goes up to about every 15-20, maybe 30 minutes or so. (I've tried to keep track of this for my own personal means of assessing the extent of saturation.)
So really, for me at least, it's a situation now where it just depends on how much rain we get vs. when the rain finally stops. If the ground is fully saturated and we get a heavy rain on top of that, the water that the pumps deal can be significant, but the moment the rain stops is the moment the cycles begin to slowly calm down with their idle times increasing a little every hour. It wouldn't take this long if I had the drainage I'm planning on installing between now and the next few years, but these things take time to fix.
For you, every 30 minutes AFTER 2 days of no rain seems a bit much. Besides the lazy, cliche noise about ensuring your downspouts are redirected and dropped no less than 10-15 feet from the house, I'd begin to call some contractors who specialize in waterproofing, foundations, and or drainage to get some quotes about eliminating the problem in full. Options definitely exist and if you run into anyone who claims you lack enough grade to deal with it, don't use them. Real excavators know how to drop a pipe at a good fall UNDERGROUND. They also understand the nuances inherent to things like perimeter drains, pea gravel, and putting drain lines at the bottom-edges of footers rather than on top of them if the footer isn't well below the surface level of your slab. Good ones also use waterproofing tar and or membrane to externally-seal your basement walls. If you go the route of installing an internal basement waterproofing system, make sure to avoid using one that comes with some sort of bullshit patent or some plastic design as the shoe salesmen who pitch these are legion. Stick with the French drain / drip board / weep hole approach as nothing else will work: they'll cut up about 1 or 2 feet worth of your slab around the wall joints of your basement to dig a trench around the perimeter of your basement edge inside your basement, dig up any dirt until they reach the bottom-edge of your footer, and at the bottom-edge of your footer inside your basement they'll plop down a layer of smooth rock and lay down a black corrugate-perforated 4" drain pipe to be covered by more smooth rock and topped with a drip board that covers the entire trench but also folds up along the wall about 4" or 5". All of this is then sealed with about 3-4" worth of cement. The line is connected to a sump pit and what this all does is remove the water under the slab (and BELOW the slab down to the footer) but also prevent seepage from even having a chance to make contact with the floor due to the drip board grooves that allow water to travel downward only and into the drain pipe). If the team drills weep holes into your bottom-most block, the drip board captures that and funnels it into the drain line to then be pumped out thereby further alleviating pressure and water resting inside or against your walls. The key in this is ensuring that the internal drain line in this waterproofing system is at the bottom-edge of your internal footing--it can't be above it or else it won't work. (I'm planning on installing one of these at some point myself.)
Hope this helps! But yeah, I'd suggest getting that cycle frequency time reduced because it just sounds like the pumps are struggling to keep up. Things should begin to calm down after about 6 hours and this comes from someone who's just about seen it all where basement water and sump pumps are concerned.
If you have any questions, feel free to let me know. I'll be happy to answer whatever I can.
Hi. We just bought a house and have the same problem. The previous sump pump was off and we replaced the pump and it runs every 2 minutes.
We also have a small pond about 10 yards from the house. What do you suggest we do about this?
Thanks for watching the video and for your question. I recommend to all my clients to "monitor and control" any sump pit. The average life of a sump pump is 10 years and that is good to know that you just replaced yours. However, the floaters can get stuck and pumps can fail. Therefore, be prepared, have backup plans for pump failures, have a 2nd new pump to be installed and control your ground water. There is a very good CHECK LIST & description with recommendations below the video under "ADDITIONAL information" please view those. I hope this is helpful. Congratulations on your new home purchase now its time for you to protect and preserve your investment. Great job!! Thanks again for your question.
Plumb it too your sanitary so you know for a fact its not recirculating. Eventually you'll pump it dry and maybe re locate the pond water somewheres farther if you can. Get some heavy duty pumps and find a new home for that pond.
This is pretty much the only scenario where I would justify the high cost of an automatic standby generator with automatic transfer switch - cheaper than refinishing the basement.
Yup. You said it. That basement never should have been allowed to be built at that elevation. Ive been inspecting homes since 1992 and seen alot of crazy installations. Back in 1998 i had a seller that decided to make a pond against the corner of their house foundation, approximately 15 by 15 feet. Felt like a moat on a castle when you looked out and down. not only could it be asking for water in basement, but in Michigan it will freeze, expand and damage the foundation. Thanks for watching...
@user-zm9zc7om5z
🤔 I don't understand your question. 🤔
Need to get those pipes cleaned lots of iron in the water
Yes, lots of iron. Just imagine the well water for the house and waterheater tank.
Where’s your back up pump and where’s your outside Sump pumps you might need two outside that go out to the footer and you might need a retaining wall with a Sump pump and where’s that water from your basement going to it has to be at least ten feet away from your basement you have more issues if you get two rain in row equal to eight inches or rain or more your house becomes a swimming pool maybe you want to consider to jack up your house two feet!Let me know your outcome gladly to help
Thanks for watching. As mentioned in the video and description, it never should have been allowed to be built like that. THEY do have a battery back up pump in the video but, i would never purchase a home with that elevation. In the last 30 years of inspecting i had another scenario like this on a lake front and the crawl did fill up like a swimming pool. They did lift the home, FILL the crawl with sand, top it with concrete slab then placed the house back down. I suppose the home in this video could have the same done. Just loosing small basement square ft.