Four Year Review Of Epoxy Flake Floor
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- Опубліковано 8 лип 2021
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The original epoxy flooring kits used to install the floors in this video are:
concretefloorsolutions.com/pr...
We have been installing floors since 1994. Both polished concrete and epoxy flooring systems.
Visit our website concretefloorsolutions.com/
In 2019 we decided to introduce our materials developed for us to the public.
Now our materials are available in our online store:
concretefloorsolutions.com/st...
The materials we sell are the same materials that we have been installing for over 20 years. We have very extensive knowledge of all products and almost every concrete condition imaginable.
We will share our knowledge with you so you can install as good a floor as possible.
Email me direct jason@concretefloorsolutions.com if you have any questions about anything. - Навчання та стиль
If only everyone loved concrete as much as us lol the fact that you’re willing to provide such credible advice to people free of charge is awesome. Work is impeccable and I’ve learned more than I could imagine through your videos wether I like it or not lol but obviously I like it 😂
Thank you for watching
Glad to see a new video after a few weeks!
We had a couple weeks of jobs we could not record. We will be posting one or two in the next week. Thanks for watching
WOW just wow ............. looks brand new!
I like the drain in the middle of the garage . Thats really a great idea
Your wife has good taste in cars! Love your vids, trying to get the courage to epoxy my own garage!
I like to squeegee when wet/ dry right away and super clean look
Very neat. I have a 400 square foot detached 2.5 car garage. The floor has a lot of cracks in it unfortunately. I am not sure why it is as I haven't seen this issue in any other detached garage but on certain days of the year most commonly during the SPRING or FALL when there are excessive temperature swings, the floor will SWEAT heavily. Sometimes it is so odd because it will be dry but then as soon as you walk on it with shoes it will start leaving wet footprints behind (even though my shoes are dry.) Obviously the moisture from the earth is coming up through the floor but I haven't seen this in any other detached garage. Would the EPOXY coating with PRIMER stop this do you think as it would seal the concrete? Or would I have issues down the road with the moisture causing issues with the epoxy from beneath?
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The floors still look great! It does look like it yellowed a little on the 2 year old side that is exposed to the sun. W
as that floor done with the polyaspartic top coat and if so is that normal wear?
I used a straight 100% solids clear epoxy (CFS-137MUV) . It is not too bad though, we do offer a polyaspartic upgrade with our kits if interested.
Hello fellow kia stinger owner.
In your videos when you backroll, do u not have to worry about bubbles? I didnt see you guys using spiked rollers at all
We always have a spiked roller available, we have not needed one in 15 years. Bubbles are not caused from back rolling, they are caused from outgassing from the concrete.
Do you use any detergent on these floors to get the oil off? Such as simple green or something.
I never had to, it wipes right up with a rag. In the event you actually do have oil residue, you can use simple green cut with water.
Hi there, what solution if any do you use when wetting the floor? I see you only used water
Typically you only need water. If there are oils on the floor you mix simple green with water to clean the floor.
Appears the epoxy on the edge of the garage that's exposed to the outside got some yellow tint to it. If you did this floor again, would you lay epoxy on this spot again? Thanks
Good question, i would apply an epoxy primer, epoxy base coat with flake and single component polyaspartic topcoat. This kit with the single component polyaspartic topcoat:
concretefloorsolutions.com/store/epoxy-floor-kits/500-sq-ft-complete-epoxy-flake-floor-kit/
Did you acid etch that floor after it was prepped?
I never acid etch and would not ever recommend acid etching. Mechanical preparation is the way to go, either grind or shotblast only.
I did my floor with the professional grade epoxy shield with full flake and then clear. I did it in July of 2013 and it has held up very well. My buddy did this professionally and let me use his diamond floor grinder. The only problem is that it yellowed some where the sun hits it and it’s lost some gloss. I’ve got the gloss back with floor wax but I guess there is nothing I can do about the yellowing is there? I wondered if I could just sand it down and redo it or would I have to grind it all off again down to the bare concrete?
As long as it is all bonded, you can lightly grind the surface to create a scratch and apply another coat on top of it.There is nothing you can do to make the yellowing itself go away.
@@ConcreteFloorSolutions when you say lightly grind do you mean with the diamond grinder that I used or can I use a sander? And if so what grit of sandpaper?
@@ConcreteFloorSolutions thanks so much for responding. I appreciate it. Most people don’t respond.
@@mike5162 You need to create a scratch in the existing coating, you may be able to acquire that with sanding but might need to lightly diamond grind depending on how it reacts. The bottom line is you need a scratch so your new coating can bond to it. Just make sure you have all the oils removed from the surface before you apply anything.
Can you epoxy over self level with primer ? Thank you
Yes you can
What about FLOOR JACKS, STANDS AND WHEELED HOISTS?
Same thing as the last floor you,no problem just make sure you have a flat base under the jackstands.
Can you use a pressure washer to clean these epoxy floors?
not necessary, but you can. just dont run the tip into the surface.
What do you mean by keep the cinders out?
The salts, sands, and cinders they spread on snowy roads around here.
@@ConcreteFloorSolutions Sorry, I'm in Virginia so we occasionally salt for snow but I had not heard of using cinders for this application.
@@Warkive cinders - meaning anything "solid/abrasive" etc... That would scratch, gouge, etch the surface and compromise the coating.
3 months after mine was done it bubbled up filled with water in spots. The epoxy manufacturer sent out a rep and he said it needed a stronger epoxy because water was leeching up through the concrete. They came out and redid it. 5 months later it started again and they stopped answering my calls. So basically a waste of money and time as the floor is now half bubbled and cracked open.
I always say not all epoxy is created equally. Just out of curiosity, what type of preparation did they recommend?
Did they do a moisture test before the redo? If you have a high vapor pressure coming from below the concrete you may need a very expensive epoxy to overcome that. With that said, with some soils you may have too much water pressure. You may have to install French drains to reduce the total water content below the slab, and in some cases you may have to stick with bare concrete to let it breathe.
@@ConcreteFloorSolutions Do you have a video that shows how to do the moisture test. If not this would be a great video and how to deal with moisture at various levels.
5:40 why is it so discolored at the entrance?
That is 4 years of UV exposure. Using the CFS-1C Single Component Topcoat will eliminate that. concretefloorsolutions.com/store/polyaspartics/cfs-1c-polyaspartic/
My floor looks like garbage after 1 months it gets too dirty and the tires are leaving stains won’t come off
What brand material did you use?
@@ConcreteFloorSolutions polyaspartic a company did it, can a vinyl Matt be put down to prevent tire mark and oil leak stains ? What kind of a mat can be put down without leaving any stains or discoloration
It’s not the same gloss factor. It is starting to show wear in spots. Just keeping it real. Looks good but does show some wear. It’s not bulletproof and will wear.
Agreed, after four years, anything will show some wear.
feel like the light flake just defeats the purpose of a flake floor.