Thermal capacity isn't everything. TS100 has a less Thermal capacity, but its heating element is very close to the tip. So this increases the heat up speed and also it can transfer heat directly to the solder joint.
I do have several, as well as a grounding strip built into my desk (you can see the metal tape in the edges of my videos. For this soldering iron, however, I use a linear power supply, which has full isolation from mains voltage. They're harder to find and less efficient than switching power supplies, but they have better isolation.
I measured the output from a switching laptop supply, which puts out 19V at 2.64A, which seemed ideal, but it actually floats at about 51VAC relative to ground when measured. The actual DC voltage is fine, but the common mode voltage is way up there, and if you had a grounded work surface and put this on a MOSFET gate, it may be fare well.. Either ground it at the supply itself or run the ground wire to the soldering iron. It'd be neater to do it at the supply, but it's a tradeoff since I'd have to cut open the power supply to do that.
Can you post some more details on how you got it to show "chris's iron" when you plug it in? I created a gif and placed it in the iron but it won't use it. Maybe I named it wrong?
The image needs to be named LOGOIN.BMP, and be exactly 96x16 pixels. The iron might need to be in DFU mode which is accomplished by attaching the iron to your computer, then pressing the "A" button, which is the one closest to the iron's tip.
Changing those settings requires setting the iron to maintenance mode and adjusting the settings in a text file on the iron. I'm not sure of the specific commands, but all of the settings are in there. As far as your lipo battery - I would hope that your battery has the appropriate discharge protection built into it. Lipo batteries are about 4.1v at full charge, so you'd be needing a boost/buck converter in order to get the twelve volts you need for the iron, and your discharge protection should be in that circuitry, if not in a circuit board on the battery itself.
Gadgetboy i just ordered one from BG, for Lipo use. What Lipo are you using? And how do you connect to the iron? Need to make a special cable? Can maybe plug and strap on a 3$ volt meter on the Lipo to always have the voltage in check? Any advice on the use of †his iron on Lipo are welcome!!! Thanks
Most of us drone pilots are using 3s and 4s batteries which work amazing for this soldering gun. Best bet to stop the lipo from draining too much is simply putting a lipo battery voltage alarm on the balance port. Set the alarm to the same value as its setup on your drone. Link to GETFPV battery alarm. www.getfpv.com/1-8s-lipo-battery-voltage-tester-low-voltage-buzzer-alarm.html?gdffi=747627bc7e464db68e5f529d971aacf3&gdfms=F4786BE57E82481F9CA1B25E9BC7B27F&gclid=CjwKEAiA17LDBRDElqOGq8vR7m8SJAA1AC0_Tg6-VqcS5uAQ3Hpxw8cSNTUxPzKqsqxwXzKOvy4Z9hoCriTw_wcB
@@GadgetBoy I definately intend on doing so... That boost feature it has is one thing that really excites me, especially with stubborn solder joints that seem to wick away heat like nothing... I bet there's nothing like finally being able to give those "cold" spots a punch without having to set the temp up the whole time... Well, atleast, I hope that's the case, but thats just more of a bonus.
The boost thing is very useful. I keep forgetting about it. P.s. there's a newer firmware, but the links and procedure are the same as on my how-to video.
It has been almost a year since your original review. Would you recommend this iron? Has it held up well to use? I'm considering this and a digital hakko 888d. If this has served you well, then I might pull the trigger
I don't find myself using it except when I need to do some precision soldering. It doesn't have the thermal capacity of a larger iron, so it's more for delicate work. In retrospect, I probably should have used it on my herrnhuter project.
Just another update. My other iron died and my ex stole my really good one, so I've been using this one exclusively. Not too sure why I stopped using it in the first place.
Muhammad Salman Galileo Exactly. The quite large PACE HRSS at work heats almost instantly, but costs a small fortune! This is portable and certain fast enough for any micro-electronics engineer.
+thurgogopro I'm North American, grew up with the L mostly silent. I'm also well aware that we don't pronounce aluminium correctly, but then again, i grew up spelling it aluminum.
Thermal capacity isn't everything. TS100 has a less Thermal capacity, but its heating element is very close to the tip. So this increases the heat up speed and also it can transfer heat directly to the solder joint.
Consider adding that the GROUND POST is for a static discharge wrist strap...
of which you probably have SEVERAL. (I hope)
I do have several, as well as a grounding strip built into my desk (you can see the metal tape in the edges of my videos.
For this soldering iron, however, I use a linear power supply, which has full isolation from mains voltage. They're harder to find and less efficient than switching power supplies, but they have better isolation.
I suspect that the strap is to protect the iron from stray shocks, as the iron isn't grounded without the strap.
I measured the output from a switching laptop supply, which puts out 19V at 2.64A, which seemed ideal, but it actually floats at about 51VAC relative to ground when measured. The actual DC voltage is fine, but the common mode voltage is way up there, and if you had a grounded work surface and put this on a MOSFET gate, it may be fare well.. Either ground it at the supply itself or run the ground wire to the soldering iron. It'd be neater to do it at the supply, but it's a tradeoff since I'd have to cut open the power supply to do that.
Yes if you are soldering N-Chanel mosfet's gate. Its extremely sensitive.
Solution is simple, ground the common line of the transformer output.
if it's an isolated transformer, it should work fine.
wish they have a portable TIG WELDING MACHINE
Hey can you tell me where is the positive and negative in the dc plug? I am trying to build my own so i dont want to fry my iron...
It's centre positive.
Is this reliable as a go to controlled temp soldering iron?
I've really enjoyed having it. I hadn't considered it a daily use soldering iron, but it's the only thing I have at the moment.
Can you post some more details on how you got it to show "chris's iron" when you plug it in? I created a gif and placed it in the iron but it won't use it. Maybe I named it wrong?
The image needs to be named LOGOIN.BMP, and be exactly 96x16 pixels. The iron might need to be in DFU mode which is accomplished by attaching the iron to your computer, then pressing the "A" button, which is the one closest to the iron's tip.
Has to be exactly that size, not smaller, not larger
I've done a new video on the iron, showing how to update the firmware and install a logo here - ua-cam.com/video/B2k_kvUDuPY/v-deo.html
Can you please make a video on how to change the auto cut off feature I'm using a lipo battery and don't want to drain battery past a certain voltage
Changing those settings requires setting the iron to maintenance mode and adjusting the settings in a text file on the iron. I'm not sure of the specific commands, but all of the settings are in there.
As far as your lipo battery - I would hope that your battery has the appropriate discharge protection built into it. Lipo batteries are about 4.1v at full charge, so you'd be needing a boost/buck converter in order to get the twelve volts you need for the iron, and your discharge protection should be in that circuitry, if not in a circuit board on the battery itself.
Gadgetboy i just ordered one from BG, for Lipo use. What Lipo are you using? And how do you connect to the iron? Need to make a special cable? Can maybe plug and strap on a 3$ volt meter on the Lipo to always have the voltage in check? Any advice on the use of †his iron on Lipo are welcome!!! Thanks
Most of us drone pilots are using 3s and 4s batteries which work amazing for this soldering gun. Best bet to stop the lipo from draining too much is simply putting a lipo battery voltage alarm on the balance port. Set the alarm to the same value as its setup on your drone.
Link to GETFPV battery alarm.
www.getfpv.com/1-8s-lipo-battery-voltage-tester-low-voltage-buzzer-alarm.html?gdffi=747627bc7e464db68e5f529d971aacf3&gdfms=F4786BE57E82481F9CA1B25E9BC7B27F&gclid=CjwKEAiA17LDBRDElqOGq8vR7m8SJAA1AC0_Tg6-VqcS5uAQ3Hpxw8cSNTUxPzKqsqxwXzKOvy4Z9hoCriTw_wcB
would you know where i can find a DC plug that I can solder to a xt 60 connector to power this iron ? thanks!
Ray Choi I dont use batteries to power the iron. I use a 19v linear dc power supply connected to the mains.
after a few years, how is it holding up?
Quite well. I use it on a regular basis.
@@GadgetBoy Awesome, thanks for letting me know! I just needed to find out some stuff since I want to get one for myself as well soon.
I highly recommend using the custom open source firmware. it has much better control options.
@@GadgetBoy I definately intend on doing so... That boost feature it has is one thing that really excites me, especially with stubborn solder joints that seem to wick away heat like nothing... I bet there's nothing like finally being able to give those "cold" spots a punch without having to set the temp up the whole time... Well, atleast, I hope that's the case, but thats just more of a bonus.
The boost thing is very useful. I keep forgetting about it.
P.s. there's a newer firmware, but the links and procedure are the same as on my how-to video.
It has been almost a year since your original review. Would you recommend this iron? Has it held up well to use?
I'm considering this and a digital hakko 888d. If this has served you well, then I might pull the trigger
I don't find myself using it except when I need to do some precision soldering. It doesn't have the thermal capacity of a larger iron, so it's more for delicate work. In retrospect, I probably should have used it on my herrnhuter project.
Just another update. My other iron died and my ex stole my really good one, so I've been using this one exclusively. Not too sure why I stopped using it in the first place.
Could you just run it off 2 9v batteries
Sure...for about 5 minutes. Those batteries don't have enough capacity to run a high-current application like a soldering iron.
There is a great uodate on github giving some more functions
All that shows up is config when I plug mine in.
Rc Addict with planes can you give me more detail what you're doing?
It is not able to run from USB power. The USB port is for config and firmware update only.
fastest heating soldering iron in world 0-300 in 9sec
Not really. JBC can heat up to 350 in only 2-3 secs.
Ajay Kumar Julka maybe for the price lol.
Muhammad Salman Galileo Exactly. The quite large PACE HRSS at work heats almost instantly, but costs a small fortune! This is portable and certain fast enough for any micro-electronics engineer.
Tesla should make one.
nice ^^
FIRST COMENT+LIKE😉
+Adam Budai >^..^
i want one.. But the damn cheap.. You get what you pay for. Hmmm...
It's actually a pretty solid piece of gear.
Soddering! There is the letter 'l' in this word. Please feel free to use it 👍😉
I was raised pronouncing it with a silent L, I cant help it. :
In may English speaking countries, including the US, the L is silent. Please feel free to pronounce it however is deemed proper wherever your from.
I have never heard anyone say it with an l.
Americans don't pronounce the L. Here in the UK we pronounce the L
How about soldier? We say so-jer. Would the Precise Diction People say sold-ee-er?
solder, solder, solder with an L
And while I'm at it
Aluminium, aluminium, aluminium with two i's in there for a reason
+thurgogopro I'm North American, grew up with the L mostly silent. I'm also well aware that we don't pronounce aluminium correctly, but then again, i grew up spelling it aluminum.