Tell me about it. I've been going mad trying to find a stirling generator capable of producing electricity, but all I've found are toys and models. And I know it's not impossible to scale them up, because commercial gasifier generators already use 2 horsepower stirlings.
Yeah car alternators run at like 3000 rpm minimum my suggestion to you would be to use a permanent magnet alternator for a wind Turbine or hydro turbine as they run in about the low hundreds of rpm to get a charging voltage for your 12 volt battery
This is work that deserves respect and compliments for pressing on. I would like to see a small dc generator connected rather than an alternator from a car - perhaps the sort used by small wind turbines. Crack on!
Greeting from Alaska in the USA. As others have stated a variable resistor in series with the field power wire would help. I have used rotary dimmer switches like for use in your home from the hardware store. Most of them are rated at 600 watts which is more than adequate for the field circuit of the alternator.
Hello from England, I know the type your talking about. I've just taken a look at what's available online, but they all seem to be PWM type that only work with AC. I did however I did find some that are made for 12V DC LED lights that might be suitable. Good idea, thakyou
Nice work ! Sound is really impressive ! I would replace the alternator with a wind turbine generator given the low rpm of the stirling engine. Also would use closed circuit with a higher pressure working agent in order to maximise the power.
So.. ..what you want is a DC to DC switchmode battery charger with an unusually wide and low input voltage range. Something ruggedized for use on old 28VDC aviation power circuits or 48VDC telecoms might do the trick for you. If you want to keep it simple and considerably more period-appropriate, then you are on the right track with using a variable field winding control. It looks like your watt meter/ammeter/voltmeter thingy is resetting periodically - the current should not jump around like that. Maybe use a large water resistor or some headlight bulbs as a more controllable load at first, rather than the battery. I am very much enjoying this video series :-)
@@ShanePomeroy It's hard to say what's causing it without doing some additional testing - such as with a dummy load and a current shunt/sense resistor read by a simple voltmeter, maybe a good snubber capacitor across the terminals of the alternator to quiet noise from the brushes.
You could replace the alternator rotor with neo magnets, instead of a rotor coil that you have to energize, and therefore, you would not need as much speed to get a lot of Current to flow. I actually bought an alternator that was modified with neo magnets for a wind turbine project. Much lower RPM is needed.
A car alternator typically puts out max power at about 2500RPM. Your drive pulley is not heavy enough to maintain a stable RPM and your Amp meter is reacting to the power pulses from the engine. Hope that helps.
Great work as always!!! There seems to be a power missmatch between the engine & alternator. If you are wiring the field rotor directly to the battery, it is drawing the max current to the rotor which can be anywhere from 3 to 5 A, so in other words 40 to 60 watts are being lost in the field coil and loading down the engine without making any useful power as soon as you connect the field coil. Car alternators have an electronic regulator which limits current to the field. It is drawing max current when the battery is below 14 v and gradually goes down as the battery charges. What you need is a way to vary the current to the field rotor. That way the engine can speed up and you can find/match the optimum engine rpm at which to start charging the battery. Perhaps a rheostat in series with the field coil can help limit the current and you can play around with this loading the engine at different rpms ranges. Looking forward to the next video!!!
Thanks a lot, Excellent idea, Just been out to the garage and have isolated the field windings from the rest of the regulator and have separate wires coming out. I've just ordered a 12V PWM speed controller to hopefully vary the field strength! We will see, stay posted
@@ShanePomeroy The PWM module may work for you, or it may cause weird issues by inadvertently modulating the main power bus, depending on how well designed it is. I strongly suggest you first try a simple large rheostat or variable resistor to limit the current drawn by the field coil. You can measure the resistance and voltage drop during running and add the loss to your power figure if you like, to make up for the lack of efficiency wrt a PWM CCS
I love your project. I think you need to put a resistor on the alternator too. Cars have the battery lamp on the dash board connected to the alternator as a resistor. If you disconnect the lamp the alternator is not charging. You might want to measure the resistance of such a lamp and buy a potensiometer of similar value to be able to vary the resistance the alternator puts on the sterling engine. Hope this helps
try a hoverboard motor into a 3 phase bridge rectifire then mppt or some sort of buck converter to control voltage one could even use the voltage regulator from the alternator
Hey just a idea but maybe a jackshaft where the alternator is and then move it so you can play with the gearing way more bc ik 5 hp is enough if you had the gearing.
Car alternators run at many thousands of Rpm...magnets on the flywheel and stationary coils would eliminate losses from extra bearings and belts. Would be possible to put more or less magnets...or coils in order to match the engines output. Lots of work to make tho. I'm very impressed with your engine... fantastic project. Devil's in the details tho. They say when a project is nearly finished you are about half way.
I think this is perhaps the best way to do it. I might incorporate this into my next engine when I've recovered from this build! (As well as rectify tons of design problems learnt from this one!) Couldn't agree more about projects nearing completion but only half complete!
Ideal generator for this would be a wheel off a hover-board. It's output will be 3-phase AC so you need a 3-phase bridge rectifier to get DC. Most hoverboard wheels have a rounded tread profile, so a flat belt will seek the center of the wheel. They are typically rated at 150 watts as motors, and should be able to give that as a generator, depending on the speed. They also have permanent magnets, which means you don't have to waste electricity powering the field windings, as in an alternator. Add a battery, micro-controller, temperature sensor, and brushless motor controller, and you can make the hoverboard wheel into a motor (starter/generator) that would start the engine when the temp is high enough, then recharge it's own battery as well as power other things once it's up and running.
Hi Brian, thanks for taking the time to write this. I love the idea of using it for a starter motor. I'm busy designing my next stirling engine (1kw if it works out!) so I'm open to ideas, cheers
@@ShanePomeroy Think of this: You have a forced air propane furnace WITH NO INCOMING ELECTRICITY. It has a battery that runs the tiny micro controller, which is connected to the room temperature sensor. When the temp drops too low, it energizes the gas valve, sparks the igniter, detects the flame for safety, and pre-heats the engine. When it's hot enough, it cranks up the engine, which turns a blower that pulls in cool room air past the cool parts of the engine to keep them cool, then through the heat exchanger to heat the air, then sends it through the ductwork to heat the room. If the blower gets going too fast or if the room is already almost warm enough, the micro-controller opens a bleed valve that reduces engine pressure and slows it down. It could be set up to blow hard if the room is really chilly, then slow down and get very quiet as it runs only fast enough to maintain the heat. The starter-generator keeps the battery charged up so it will start every time. A forced air propane furnace with no need of electricity for it's blower or control system. AIR CONDITIONING? Yes, it would be an absorption system, like a camper refrigerator, but bigger. They used to make propane fired central air units. Again, the engine will drive the blower, but it will also have to run a small pump that moves the fluids around in the system. It's not a power-hungry compressor, just a little liquid pump. The fire does all the work instead of a compressor. How about pumping the well and heating the domestic hot water? Controller detects low water in the well tank, starts engine to generate electricity to run high efficiency water well pump to fill the tank. Water is used to cool the engines cool side, warming up the water. A bit more coil to pick up heat above the hot part of the cylinder, and the water is hot and sent to a storage tank. The filling of the tank will take little time, but it will take longer to heat the hot water. The engine's generator will charge up household batteries while the water is heating. There you are. Hot and cold running water, lights, central heat and AC, all without any electricity. You can do this with wood fuel, too, like a pellet stove instead of a propane burner. Or a regular wood or coal stove, but you will have to tend the fire, since a computer can't be relied on to tend a wood stove.
Hi Brian, there's a heap of fantastic ideas there, thankyou. I'm in the process of building the next one and need good ideas! (Hopefully more powerfull, quiet, etc) Many thanks for taking the time to write this : )
I have a suggestion. Add a dc motor and another alternator. The first one may provide enough current to run the dc motor at the required rpm to make the second alternator produce the desired wattage. It seems redundant but I have been figuring how to get more power from less. Most of my life and it seems possible. Kind of like pushing a car. Once you get it moving it takes less energy to keep moving. Use momentum to your advantage.
Nice machine. I'm not sure if charging a battery is really a good load test. Putting a real load like like a heater etc might give you better results. An alternator will try to keep the voltage up by increasing amps when it has a load and that will produce more watts.
You have an amazing machine there and I congratulate you. Have you considered making a rocket stove Stirling engine. I know you have enough clues and engineering ability to do it, also you would use less-less-less wood as rocket stoves are very efficient. Cheers Brian from NZ…
Hi Brian, I am really interested with the rocket stoves and other lean burn stoves. I will be building a mk3 engine soon so watch this space! Many thanks
@@ShanePomeroy That’s so good to know. I have now subscribed to your channel as I don’t want to miss you doing that… I am also interested in rocket stoves and during Covid lockdown, here in NZ, I made 10 stoves and two rocket stove ovens for my friends from Tanna, Vanuatu who work on the local orchards seasonally. Good luck with that project, I wish you well on it. cheers, Brian.
I would think to add capacitors to end so your voltage can even out. Only thing I can think that would help. I also think correct me if I’m wrong the end connection with the capacitors should be able to make enough available to use electricity.
Have just come across your channel and looks like an extremely interesting project. As you stated the need to energize the field windings makes it a very in efficient option. Off the top of my head, an alternator needs to be running at approx 1500 RPM before it produces an output of 12V . There used to be a Coy in the US called WindBlue that sells a Delco alternator that has been converted with permanent magnets and therefore develops 12V at approx 130 RPM, and approx 15A at 2000 RPM. The output is 3 phase AC so needs an external rectifier, but these can be purchased with the alternator. I purchased one approx 10 years ago and have only good things to say about it.
Wondering if a capacitor added would help level out the voltage output. Maybe using a large wattage resistor might help as well... though yes... the RPM is going to be an issue and the power load on the alternator. Neat!
I am wondering if the cable gauge has anything to do with it. I'm Canadian who is more familiar using the American Wire Gauge than cross-sectional area in mm^2 so I would say using 8, 6 or larger gauge may be beneficial with bringing overall voltage up. Also, getting power out of that alternator, on average, it would be better running the alternator itself at 2000-3000 RPM may help as well being a fairly standard automotive unit and also running it with a cog pulley and a timing belt or running a poly-v or serpentine belt like on a car would also boost the energy compared to the flat belt setup he has here.
Hi!, I find your work fantastic, I can give you two tips in order to measure your power output in a better way, first of all, using an alternator isn't the best, since they are very inefficient, use a permanent magnet motor/generator instead, looking at your setup, replacing the alternator with a hoverboard motor should be fairly easy. On the other side, don't use a battery as electric load, if your generator doesn't reach 12V power flow will go from the battery to the generator and not the other way, as a load you should use a pure resistor, and measure current and voltage. I'm a electrical engineer, if you feel like needing some advice I can help you nonprofit. Feel free to contact me. Love your project man! Greetings from Colombia.
Hi, thankyou for advice. The hoverboard idea is a great one! I've ordered one up and also a wind power turbine charge controller. Should be ready to test next weekend, thanks for your help
I dont know what kind of alternator You use, but in general car alternators generate rectified AC current. But this isnt DC current. You must use capacitors on the output of alternátor. Your wattmeter is also DC, therfore they not measurre current correctly. And Your speed controller is probably PWM based, that mean it cant be used with capacitive load like battery. It is only suitable for inductive or resistive load. But you need regulate current from alternator, because when is alternator load too much, they slow down the engine and efficiency fall.
I'm looking at trying to control the field winding strength to regulate the alternator output. I've just checked my alternator and it has the regulator/rectifier built into it so I think it's output should be DC. Your comments, Much appreciated
A simple gear box mounted to the alternator would give you all the RPM you needed for any ordinary 12v car alternator or use a permanent magnet alternator.
Respected sir, as of my knowledge (poor one at that) car alternator is one of the worst generators there is. Low coeficient, high power for field, etc... Probably would be going better with some permanent magnet motor from, say, those running machines. Some conversion would be really helpfull here. Maybe some MPPT would do the job, but is questionable how it would affect on RPM (and power of course). Very nice Stirling motor indeed. Best Regards
I don't know if this is mentioned before, but you might want to check out axial Flux generators. I think they can run at way lower rpm than a car generator.
Hi, Yes I could blow the same air through the radiator cooling radiator en-route and this could then feed the combustion air with pre-warmed air. I'm working out the design for the next engine and you've got me thinking..... cheers
Thanks, Everyone says its loud on the video but in real life it is really not! I think the camera mic picks up a lot of noise. Right! that's it, I'm buying a decibel noise meter to proof it's not that loud : ), Cheers
14.7 V * 40A (OPTIMAL RANGE OF AN 70 Amp CAR ALTERNATOR "AT > 2000 RPM " ) = 500w > 0.6 HP ! MY 2 CENTS you need an dinamo for increase efficiency at low speed or an big stepper motor used as alternator, my other thought is that the stilrling engine of equal size with a steam engine is less efficient, I would go in the direction of the steam engine to make an electric generator
Remove the voltage regulator from the alternator, it will never provide more than about 12-14 volts at those speeds with it....without it, it can produce 40+ volts. You can add a variable resistor between the field winding and battery to control the voltage output.....also.....if you remove the rectifier the alternator will produce 3 phase a/c power.
Car alternators run at 2000 rpm to 15000 rpm to give 13.8-14 volt engines as you say 1000 to 6000 rpm alternators are geared up from the crankshaft 2.5+ try a 12volt dc magnet motor you will possible get more out of it car alternators are NOT the most efficient things.
ever consider a Chevy one wire car alternator? Its simple as it gets used to be common in the US now can be found in speed shops mostly . w proper rpm ,14 volts is easy plus it has an internal regulator . Keeps things simple ,Best wishes sry. I'm new probably sounding like a broken record w old news
Nothing wrong with running an altenator. Depending on the amp rating however they can consume as much as 7HP or about 5.4 KW of power from the engine. By the way it's possible to remove the rectifier and get a three phase output from the altenator.
Take a look at DIY KING. Making a alternator windmill. This guy toke the alternator apart and chanced the outcome on the alternator connecting the cables on ohter spots. He had the same problem you had with low energy. After the chance he had 45 watts more than before.
Fill a bike rim with cement the whole rim use the one way clutch and the rim a large flywheel with a clutch will increase upur work load and speed also much larger cables car audio zero gauge and your not going to see watts till there is a load
That is not good option ,you need to make one by yourself,as this engine can produce much much more but idea to use car parts are just wrong. Balance that machine,i like it!!
you need to do some balancing otherwise it will shake itself to bits over time. I suggest you weigh all the articulating parts and weigh them individually and get the best weight.
all you now need is a loud train horn to hit every now and then.🤣🤣 Train coming thru. a smaller Alternator pulley should make the alt put out more amps etc. Can you try adding another alt and run 2 alts.
Hello you have definitely made me think about the different types of wood that I burn for different purposes, here in American I use two types of wood. For a fire place I generally use mulberry wood as it does not produce a lot of as and smoke and burns relatively hot. But for a very hot fire here in the Midwest region, we use a very dense wood called Osage orange. If remember correctly, if you were able to cut it, it was the best fuel for boilers as it burned so hot.
Electrician here, alternator gearing on an ICE engine does roughly 3000rpm from idle alone, you're on the right track with limiting the field, gear up the alternator and use a 5v 2a usb on the field
Hi, I've just been out to the garage and have isolated the field windings from the rest of the regulator and have separate wires coming out. I've just ordered a 12V PWM speed controller to hopefully vary the field strength! We will see, stay posted. I'll measure the Alternator speed next test run to check I'm getting enough speed, Cheers
Would love to see a schematic of the engine. But I do have a sorta theory about increasing torque from re arrangements of the rod and piston cycle.Just a thought.
and what does it do?? I wasted 15 min to browse your videos to learn, that actually this engine is just a big dummy, not propelling the wheels beneath :D
Make your moving parts lighter. Reciprocating weight causes parasitic loss. In this case you need a flywheel but the lighter everything is the less energy it takes to move. The faster it moves the less it takes to maintain speed . The other side is the drag of the alternator.
Adding a diode in series should prevent your battery from backfeeding your alternator. I suspect you are losing quite a lot of power to heat in the alternator windings.
Also, mounting the alternator to a spring loaded lever arm should let you swap pulleys without having to adjust the length of your belt. You can even do a variable spring simular to a watch spring so you can play around with different belt tensions.
Alternators have diodes already. What’s happening is because it’s turning slower than a car would the regulator is pushing more current through the rotor. Which generates more heat trying to maintain the charging voltage. Auto alternators are not that efficient. A permanent magnet dyno with a 3 phase diode pack into a PWM regulator would be the most efficient. I believe I saw on Amazon a compact tractor setup that does this.
really cool. I'm no expert on stirling engines, but would it help to create a larger delta between the hot and cold side? I love the passive cooling simplicity, but i wonder if it would make it more efficient to pump the water and have a mechanically driven fan on a bigger radiator.
@@ShanePomeroy you spurred me to do more reading on the subject! I found a way to increase torque is to increase the pressure of the working fluid as well (air). That may also require to increase the piping size in the transfer to help reduce pumping losses. Just another thought. Can't wait to see what you come up with next!
12:10 Car alternators are designed to run at 10k, maybe 12k RPMs. They're geared to run 3 times the speed of the engine, witch is for most cars, 3.5k max at cruising speed. (I know they can spin up to 6,750 RPMs, but usually don't.) They're somewhere arround 63% efficiency at best, running slower it can get worse. Maybe you could have a look at some universal motors, (out of old drills machines or blenders) they're dumb easy to run as generators. Another kind of motor you can use to generate are induction motors, found in washing machines and a lot of other equipments. To run them as generators, you'll need to put some capacitors in paralel with the windings. It's a bit tricky, since you can't start under load, and they stop generating when overloaded. But I did turned on fluorescent lamps with this kind of motor. (not mine, just an exemple: ua-cam.com/video/tqy4nJ4cZ5A/v-deo.html) Just subscribed your channel, please, keep up this great work you're doing developing this engine! Saudações do Brasil
Hello, thankyou for your advice. I think you have a firmer grip on charging systems than myself! lol. I'm currently looking at these options to hopefully replace the alternator, cheers
I would Place magnets around your flywheel then place a coil of wire in close proximity and see what you get out of it. Every time you exchange energy you lose some of it. Using a belt to change RPM is a loss. Automotive alternators are inherently inefficient. Once you find The Sweet Spot with your magnets and coil you could always use a buck-boost converter to change your voltage.
Good idea! It might be the way to go eventually . I'm playing about with a hoverboard motor at the moment but I will still have the problem of finding the sweet spot, thankyou
A car alternator is not efficient, efficiencies of 60% are quoted quite widely, and they get even worse at low power outputs, I have seen figures of 10% quoted at an output of 10W. On a car engine this isn't going to make a noticeable difference, where available power is limited its going to be a deal breaker. I would consider either using a permanent magnet alternator, perhaps re-using a second hand motor, the sort that are used for wind turbines, together with a wide range charge regulator, or even constructing you own permanent magnet generator as part of the flywheel, as the belt drive will be another source of loss. There are quite a few diy constructors who have made slow speed systems using multiple magnets cast into a flywheel type assembly with resin and self wound coils, to be used on for example low speed water wheels. I am sure you could get some ideas.
Hi Mike, eek.... I didn't know they were that bad. I'm going to do one more test with the existing alternator and then may need to re-think strategy. "permanent magnet generator as part of the flywheel" sounds like a really good idea. Hits two birds with one stone, Thankyou
@@ShanePomeroy Something similar to this is what I had in mind ua-cam.com/video/lbpRdme4Tpg/v-deo.html I would turn it 'inside out' having the magnets cast into the flywheel, and coils on the outside. Claims of 200W at 170 rpm are reasonable, some of the claims you see online are just not believable. Losses with this type of system will be an order of magnitude lower.
Cool project BUT I think you need a rectifier. Your alternator produces alternating current(AC) and your batterie needs direct current(DC). You can turn AC into DC with some diodes, just search for a bridge-rectifier. (Diodes are like electrical valves, they only let current run into one direction, that's why you can use them to deal with AC) This alternation is also the reason why your Wattage readings are all over the place!
i would look at a different generator ideally something out of a wind turbine (perm magnets) and hook it up with a charge controller to get your power readings as for the alternator try putting a load on the battery (a couple of headlight bulbs) and see if the output changes i think the circuitry in the alternator is seeing the basicly full battery and not out putting anything hence the figures jumping all over the place I think once you apply a load you'll see consistant output followed by added load and stalling of your motor also the gearing for the alternator is off it needs to be in the 3000-4000 rpm range which you might be able to achieve if you correct your gearing and allow it to spin upto speed with the field disconnected then connect the field windings and see how it performs
Hi, I've binned the alternator and am doing what you've suggested. The next setup trial will have a PM motor from a hoverboard which seems ideal in theory! Watch out for next video!
An alternator that has been used before. Will have enough magnetism in it. That you dont need to energize the field wire. Just connect it to the output. It wont be as efficient but wont be so demanding. But if you want to energize the field wire. Use a pluse circuit. You can use a 555 chip or an arduino.
you will never get a 14 V, reading from a meter if the meter is hooked up to the battery unless the battery is already at 14 V, to get an accurate reading of what is being put out of the alternator unhook the battery ,what ever it reads then is what your battery will come to in time
alternators have optimal RPM, if you can't get it from datasheet, spin it by other means like car wheel to determine optimal RPM, and calculate it for RPM of stirling And let's not kid ourselves, setup like this would be considered amazing at 1% efficiency As of load, water heaters are ideal
8:56 I'm fairly certain that you need to be spinning the alternator faster. Idle RPMs in a vehicle is 500-600RPM. Some go up to 1000RPMs. You've got a lot of torque, it seems, so you should be able to add in a gear ratio to bring the RPMs up. Another issue you might be running into is the type of alternator you've got running. Some will spin fairly freely up until they get into charge range, then the resistance increases significantly. These are fine for vehicles because there's a LOT of torque coming from the engine... You may want to look into something like a windmill generator which can generate at lower RPMs, and don't have as much resistance. They don't generate as much as a car alternator, but it's a decent amount. You may also want to investigate electromagnet vs permanent magnet generators.
Thankyou , all of what you've said makes sense. The biggest issue I've had is the generator draging the engine down. I need something that will allow it to get up to speed and then progressively apply load as speed increases. In my later video's I've been using a pernament magnet motor ( hoverboad motor) with some success. Thanks alot
Very nice !! Well done !! Replace the alternator with a treadmill motor.. they are high voltage brushed dc motors and they are working good as generators..
Usa un motor brushless ( uno de hoverboard 12 v puede servir) como generador. Los transistores de efecto hall ya te dan voltaje estabilizado. Saludos desde Uruguay.
Yes, Using pistons with their associated friction troubles me very much. Have you got a link to one of these flap engines you talk of? I'm interested, many thanks
@@ShanePomeroy well they flex, many possible configurations, main one being a flap engine that emulates the piston function of the normal stirling engine, but only flex as their main movement, some kind of flap valve (hole with a cover flap stirling engine, possibly one or two hole flaps)
@@Jkauppa Ah yes, I think I know the ones you mean. Is it like these ones www.google.co.uk/url?sa=i&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3Dv_e0981CLDI&psig=AOvVaw02GpCRRa8YJ0miSBK7XqxM&ust=1682261931563000&source=images&cd=vfe&ved=2ahUKEwil7IiY4L3-AhUykicCHXGQBEgQr4kDegUIARC9Ag
@@ShanePomeroy well no, more like a metal strip sheet that bends, but maybe, I meant a more rigid cantilever flap instead, so that its the least complex and self-supporting lever leaf spring
the engine is perfect the car alternator is not suitable as a low rpm generator you need to bin the alternator and use something more suitable like suggested in the comments ie from a wind turbine or stepper motor also love the snoopy t shirt
@@ShanePomeroy shane have a watch of this vid about using a universal(motor washing machine motor) as a generator it explains it super simple plus i think theres lots of other things there you will get ideas from ua-cam.com/video/gJrpwhBHpVM/v-deo.html
Could possibly use some more or less lead shot in the fly wheel? Chains are extremely efficient at transferring power. Also I really enjoy this project
You should NOT be using the coil exciter in the generator but rather a speaker type ring magnet (make sure you know what you're doing though!) and use preferably the strongest neodymium types (#45/55?) that should do the trick.
the oil companies would completely hate this idea: run an engine on any fuel you can burn oh the horror. steam does work but you would need monotube boilers (for speed) and there is always a delay of some kind with that specific technology. also the maintenance would be kinda nasty having to clean out all that water mineral deposits. but a sterling engine you dont have that but the power is so much less vs steam with pistons or turbines but the maintenance would be so much less.
77 dB isn't bad, Honda inverter generators, at about 10 ft depending on the load do anywhere between 60-70 dB, the average open frame does maybe 80. Conversation is on average about 60.
That’s an interesting mechanical device you have built there. How I pictured a Sterling is engines is running on the leftover heat produced by something necessary like the steam lines in New York City the heat of black asphalt in the summer, the heat off of a tar roof the heat from a muffler, which does come close to what you’re doing. But my idea was to use the Sterling engine to produce electricity from the wasted energy that goes into the atmosphere from all the things we do. It doesn’t make sense when its efficiency is so bad like a wood-burning stove circulate water through a radiator. Circulating the water from your hot water heater in your house that would make more sense using a Sterling motor to produce energy from heat sources. Like building a Sterling engine to sit on top of your air conditioning unit as it exhaust hot air producing air conditioning for your house.
It's good to see a large scale practical use of a sterling engine rather than table top model 👍
Tell me about it. I've been going mad trying to find a stirling generator capable of producing electricity, but all I've found are toys and models. And I know it's not impossible to scale them up, because commercial gasifier generators already use 2 horsepower stirlings.
Yeah car alternators run at like 3000 rpm minimum my suggestion to you would be to use a permanent magnet alternator for a wind Turbine or hydro turbine as they run in about the low hundreds of rpm to get a charging voltage for your 12 volt battery
Your experiments are great. I wish I knew English, but I understand a lot anyway. I wish you further success
Thank you very much!
This is work that deserves respect and compliments for pressing on. I would like to see a small dc generator connected rather than an alternator from a car - perhaps the sort used by small wind turbines. Crack on!
Many thanks and great suggestion! (I'll make a note of that one!)
I was thinking old school starter generator from a garden tractor. Then you wouldn't have to hand start the engine... ;-)
You need at least a 500 ohm load on the rectifier to make the regulator charge!
That's why u have that lil alternator light in ur dash.
Use a piece of spark plug wire! Just cut chunks and measure the resistance or use a 194 light bulb
Greeting from Alaska in the USA. As others have stated a variable resistor in series with the field power wire would help. I have used rotary dimmer switches like for use in your home from the hardware store. Most of them are rated at 600 watts which is more than adequate for the field circuit of the alternator.
Hello from England, I know the type your talking about. I've just taken a look at what's available online, but they all seem to be PWM type that only work with AC. I did however I did find some that are made for 12V DC LED lights that might be suitable. Good idea, thakyou
Nice work ! Sound is really impressive ! I would replace the alternator with a wind turbine generator given the low rpm of the stirling engine. Also would use closed circuit with a higher pressure working agent in order to maximise the power.
I got amazed by that engine.
So.. ..what you want is a DC to DC switchmode battery charger with an unusually wide and low input voltage range. Something ruggedized for use on old 28VDC aviation power circuits or 48VDC telecoms might do the trick for you. If you want to keep it simple and considerably more period-appropriate, then you are on the right track with using a variable field winding control. It looks like your watt meter/ammeter/voltmeter thingy is resetting periodically - the current should not jump around like that. Maybe use a large water resistor or some headlight bulbs as a more controllable load at first, rather than the battery. I am very much enjoying this video series :-)
Great comments , The dump load idea sounds like a good idea. I couldn't really understand why the watt meter was behaving like that?? All the best
@@ShanePomeroy It's hard to say what's causing it without doing some additional testing - such as with a dummy load and a current shunt/sense resistor read by a simple voltmeter, maybe a good snubber capacitor across the terminals of the alternator to quiet noise from the brushes.
You could replace the alternator rotor with neo magnets, instead of a rotor coil that you have to energize, and therefore, you would not need as much speed to get a lot of Current to flow. I actually bought an alternator that was modified with neo magnets for a wind turbine project. Much lower RPM is needed.
Neodymium?
@@pratapbalakrishna3036
Yes, neodymium 🧲
Not a good idea, there's a lot of theory behind project and build an generator. Better find a suitable generator to install.
@@emanuelgoncalvessantos4499
Not a good idea?
Why would you think it's not a good idea?
I'd say it would be easier to just buy a DC voltage wind powered generator and take the prop off and put the pulley on.
A car alternator typically puts out max power at about 2500RPM. Your drive pulley is not heavy enough to maintain a stable RPM and your Amp meter is reacting to the power pulses from the engine. Hope that helps.
I think you should use a different generator instead of the car alternator, maybe a large stepping motor as a generator or something?
Good idea! There's tonnes of unwanted stepper motors around, many thanks
Stepper motors are great, I had one on a lawn mower, I used bridge rectifiers in order to combine all the windings. I was getting 40w from it.
Great work as always!!! There seems to be a power missmatch between the engine & alternator. If you are wiring the field rotor directly to the battery, it is drawing the max current to the rotor which can be anywhere from 3 to 5 A, so in other words 40 to 60 watts are being lost in the field coil and loading down the engine without making any useful power as soon as you connect the field coil. Car alternators have an electronic regulator which limits current to the field. It is drawing max current when the battery is below 14 v and gradually goes down as the battery charges. What you need is a way to vary the current to the field rotor. That way the engine can speed up and you can find/match the optimum engine rpm at which to start charging the battery. Perhaps a rheostat in series with the field coil can help limit the current and you can play around with this loading the engine at different rpms ranges. Looking forward to the next video!!!
Thanks a lot, Excellent idea, Just been out to the garage and have isolated the field windings from the rest of the regulator and have separate wires coming out. I've just ordered a 12V PWM speed controller to hopefully vary the field strength! We will see, stay posted
@@ShanePomeroy sounds like a great idea! Hopefully you'll get better results 👍👍
@@ShanePomeroy The PWM module may work for you, or it may cause weird issues by inadvertently modulating the main power bus, depending on how well designed it is. I strongly suggest you first try a simple large rheostat or variable resistor to limit the current drawn by the field coil. You can measure the resistance and voltage drop during running and add the loss to your power figure if you like, to make up for the lack of efficiency wrt a PWM CCS
I love your project. I think you need to put a resistor on the alternator too. Cars have the battery lamp on the dash board connected to the alternator as a resistor. If you disconnect the lamp the alternator is not charging. You might want to measure the resistance of such a lamp and buy a potensiometer of similar value to be able to vary the resistance the alternator puts on the sterling engine. Hope this helps
@@vasilispants8241 normally the bulbs connected to the alternator excitation are 3W
try a hoverboard motor into a 3 phase bridge rectifire then mppt or some sort of buck converter to control voltage one could even use the voltage regulator from the alternator
Hi David, I'll write that one down. thankyou
Really fantastic engine absolutely love it 👍🏻 I’m no expert but maybe a PMG from a small wind turbine would cope better than the alternator?
I think your probably right! Cheers
Please don't stop making good work, I strongly recommend. THANKS
Very kind, I plan to keep going, thankyou
Hey just a idea but maybe a jackshaft where the alternator is and then move it so you can play with the gearing way more bc ik 5 hp is enough if you had the gearing.
Car alternators run at many thousands of Rpm...magnets on the flywheel and stationary coils would eliminate losses from extra bearings and belts. Would be possible to put more or less magnets...or coils in order to match the engines output. Lots of work to make tho. I'm very impressed with your engine... fantastic project. Devil's in the details tho. They say when a project is nearly finished you are about half way.
I think this is perhaps the best way to do it. I might incorporate this into my next engine when I've recovered from this build! (As well as rectify tons of design problems learnt from this one!) Couldn't agree more about projects nearing completion but only half complete!
You should try using a wheel from a hoverboard/balanceboard for power. great vid 👍
Great suggestion! I'm on it! Watch out for the next video
Ideal generator for this would be a wheel off a hover-board. It's output will be 3-phase AC so you need a 3-phase bridge rectifier to get DC. Most hoverboard wheels have a rounded tread profile, so a flat belt will seek the center of the wheel. They are typically rated at 150 watts as motors, and should be able to give that as a generator, depending on the speed. They also have permanent magnets, which means you don't have to waste electricity powering the field windings, as in an alternator. Add a battery, micro-controller, temperature sensor, and brushless motor controller, and you can make the hoverboard wheel into a motor (starter/generator) that would start the engine when the temp is high enough, then recharge it's own battery as well as power other things once it's up and running.
Hi Brian, thanks for taking the time to write this. I love the idea of using it for a starter motor. I'm busy designing my next stirling engine (1kw if it works out!) so I'm open to ideas, cheers
@@ShanePomeroy Think of this: You have a forced air propane furnace WITH NO INCOMING ELECTRICITY. It has a battery that runs the tiny micro controller, which is connected to the room temperature sensor. When the temp drops too low, it energizes the gas valve, sparks the igniter, detects the flame for safety, and pre-heats the engine. When it's hot enough, it cranks up the engine, which turns a blower that pulls in cool room air past the cool parts of the engine to keep them cool, then through the heat exchanger to heat the air, then sends it through the ductwork to heat the room. If the blower gets going too fast or if the room is already almost warm enough, the micro-controller opens a bleed valve that reduces engine pressure and slows it down. It could be set up to blow hard if the room is really chilly, then slow down and get very quiet as it runs only fast enough to maintain the heat. The starter-generator keeps the battery charged up so it will start every time. A forced air propane furnace with no need of electricity for it's blower or control system.
AIR CONDITIONING? Yes, it would be an absorption system, like a camper refrigerator, but bigger. They used to make propane fired central air units. Again, the engine will drive the blower, but it will also have to run a small pump that moves the fluids around in the system. It's not a power-hungry compressor, just a little liquid pump. The fire does all the work instead of a compressor.
How about pumping the well and heating the domestic hot water? Controller detects low water in the well tank, starts engine to generate electricity to run high efficiency water well pump to fill the tank. Water is used to cool the engines cool side, warming up the water. A bit more coil to pick up heat above the hot part of the cylinder, and the water is hot and sent to a storage tank. The filling of the tank will take little time, but it will take longer to heat the hot water. The engine's generator will charge up household batteries while the water is heating.
There you are. Hot and cold running water, lights, central heat and AC, all without any electricity. You can do this with wood fuel, too, like a pellet stove instead of a propane burner. Or a regular wood or coal stove, but you will have to tend the fire, since a computer can't be relied on to tend a wood stove.
Hi Brian, there's a heap of fantastic ideas there, thankyou. I'm in the process of building the next one and need good ideas! (Hopefully more powerfull, quiet, etc) Many thanks for taking the time to write this : )
I have a suggestion. Add a dc motor and another alternator. The first one may provide enough current to run the dc motor at the required rpm to make the second alternator produce the desired wattage. It seems redundant but I have been figuring how to get more power from less. Most of my life and it seems possible. Kind of like pushing a car. Once you get it moving it takes less energy to keep moving. Use momentum to your advantage.
It sounds like it would regulate the load on the engine, which is what I want! Speed regulation, thanks
Nice machine. I'm not sure if charging a battery is really a good load test. Putting a real load like like a heater etc might give you better results. An alternator will try to keep the voltage up by increasing amps when it has a load and that will produce more watts.
Some capacitors will help smooth out the voltage.
You have an amazing machine there and I congratulate you.
Have you considered making a rocket stove Stirling engine.
I know you have enough clues and engineering ability to do it, also you would use less-less-less wood as rocket stoves are very efficient.
Cheers
Brian from NZ…
Hi Brian, I am really interested with the rocket stoves and other lean burn stoves. I will be building a mk3 engine soon so watch this space! Many thanks
@@ShanePomeroy That’s so good to know.
I have now subscribed to your channel as I don’t want to miss you doing that…
I am also interested in rocket stoves and during Covid lockdown, here in NZ, I made 10 stoves and two rocket stove ovens for my friends from Tanna, Vanuatu who work on the local orchards seasonally.
Good luck with that project, I wish you well on it.
cheers, Brian.
I would think to add capacitors to end so your voltage can even out. Only thing I can think that would help. I also think correct me if I’m wrong the end connection with the capacitors should be able to make enough available to use electricity.
Definitely worth a go! The output is rough even if it's DC. My inline watt meter doesn't like it. Cheers
Have just come across your channel and looks like an extremely interesting project. As you stated the need to energize the field windings makes it a very in efficient option. Off the top of my head, an alternator needs to be running at approx 1500 RPM before it produces an output of 12V . There used to be a Coy in the US called WindBlue that sells a Delco alternator that has been converted with permanent magnets and therefore develops 12V at approx 130 RPM, and approx 15A at 2000 RPM. The output is 3 phase AC so needs an external rectifier, but these can be purchased with the alternator. I purchased one approx 10 years ago and have only good things to say about it.
Hi Andrew, I'll look into that, thankyou
Wondering if a capacitor added would help level out the voltage output. Maybe using a large wattage resistor might help as well... though yes... the RPM is going to be an issue and the power load on the alternator. Neat!
I am wondering if the cable gauge has anything to do with it. I'm Canadian who is more familiar using the American Wire Gauge than cross-sectional area in mm^2 so I would say using 8, 6 or larger gauge may be beneficial with bringing overall voltage up. Also, getting power out of that alternator, on average, it would be better running the alternator itself at 2000-3000 RPM may help as well being a fairly standard automotive unit and also running it with a cog pulley and a timing belt or running a poly-v or serpentine belt like on a car would also boost the energy compared to the flat belt setup he has here.
Hi!, I find your work fantastic, I can give you two tips in order to measure your power output in a better way, first of all, using an alternator isn't the best, since they are very inefficient, use a permanent magnet motor/generator instead, looking at your setup, replacing the alternator with a hoverboard motor should be fairly easy. On the other side, don't use a battery as electric load, if your generator doesn't reach 12V power flow will go from the battery to the generator and not the other way, as a load you should use a pure resistor, and measure current and voltage. I'm a electrical engineer, if you feel like needing some advice I can help you nonprofit. Feel free to contact me. Love your project man! Greetings from Colombia.
Hi, thankyou for advice. The hoverboard idea is a great one! I've ordered one up and also a wind power turbine charge controller. Should be ready to test next weekend, thanks for your help
It looks really Great. Maybe it needs a fan on the radiator to get rid of more heat. SY Albert Harvey Rotary Engines
I dont know what kind of alternator You use, but in general car alternators generate rectified AC current. But this isnt DC current. You must use capacitors on the output of alternátor. Your wattmeter is also DC, therfore they not measurre current correctly. And Your speed controller is probably PWM based, that mean it cant be used with capacitive load like battery. It is only suitable for inductive or resistive load. But you need regulate current from alternator, because when is alternator load too much, they slow down the engine and efficiency fall.
I'm looking at trying to control the field winding strength to regulate the alternator output. I've just checked my alternator and it has the regulator/rectifier built into it so I think it's output should be DC. Your comments, Much appreciated
A simple gear box mounted to the alternator would give you all the RPM you needed for any ordinary 12v car alternator or use a permanent magnet alternator.
Respected sir, as of my knowledge (poor one at that) car alternator is one of the worst generators there is. Low coeficient, high power for field, etc... Probably would be going better with some permanent magnet motor from, say, those running machines. Some conversion would be really helpfull here. Maybe some MPPT would do the job, but is questionable how it would affect on RPM (and power of course). Very nice Stirling motor indeed. Best Regards
I don't know if this is mentioned before, but you might want to check out axial Flux generators. I think they can run at way lower rpm than a car generator.
Hi Jonathan, they look like a very good option because they can get built into the flywheel. Thanks
Would it be worth using a fan driven off the motor to blow air int the firebox, thus increasing it's temperature?
Kinda like a turbo charger...
Hi, Yes I could blow the same air through the radiator cooling radiator en-route and this could then feed the combustion air with pre-warmed air. I'm working out the design for the next engine and you've got me thinking..... cheers
Красава, прикольно получилось.
Соседи его через неделю поломают,громкий паравоз)))
Thanks, Everyone says its loud on the video but in real life it is really not! I think the camera mic picks up a lot of noise. Right! that's it, I'm buying a decibel noise meter to proof it's not that loud : ), Cheers
14.7 V * 40A (OPTIMAL RANGE OF AN 70 Amp CAR ALTERNATOR "AT > 2000 RPM " ) = 500w > 0.6 HP ! MY 2 CENTS you need an dinamo for increase efficiency at low speed or an big stepper motor used as alternator, my other thought is that the stilrling engine of equal size with a steam engine is less efficient, I would go in the direction of the steam engine to make an electric generator
yes, the car generator is no efficent at that. Better a 3 phase generator and a bridge rectifier (to feed a charge controller) :-)
Remove the voltage regulator from the alternator, it will never provide more than about 12-14 volts at those speeds with it....without it, it can produce 40+ volts.
You can add a variable resistor between the field winding and battery to control the voltage output.....also.....if you remove the rectifier the alternator will produce 3 phase a/c power.
Car alternators run at 2000 rpm to 15000 rpm to give 13.8-14 volt engines as you say 1000 to 6000 rpm alternators are geared up from the crankshaft 2.5+ try a 12volt dc magnet motor you will possible get more out of it car alternators are NOT the most efficient things.
ever consider a Chevy one wire car alternator? Its simple as it gets used to be common in the US now can be found in speed shops mostly . w proper rpm ,14 volts is easy plus it has an internal regulator . Keeps things simple ,Best wishes sry. I'm new probably sounding like a broken record w old news
Nothing wrong with running an altenator. Depending on the amp rating however they can consume as much as 7HP or about 5.4 KW of power from the engine.
By the way it's possible to remove the rectifier and get a three phase output from the altenator.
Surely you need to burn the flue gas?
Take a look at DIY KING. Making a alternator windmill.
This guy toke the alternator apart and chanced the outcome on the alternator connecting the cables on ohter spots.
He had the same problem you had with low energy. After the chance he had 45 watts more than before.
a car alternator is not suitable,do you have access to direct drive washing machine motors?these have perm magnet fields.
Hi, I think you're probably right! I'd imagine a washing machine motor wouldn't be to hard to get hold of, I'll look into that, Thanks
Fill a bike rim with cement the whole rim use the one way clutch and the rim a large flywheel with a clutch will increase upur work load and speed also much larger cables car audio zero gauge and your not going to see watts till there is a load
Swap the flywheel with a 10kw axilflux alternator
That is not good option ,you need to make one by yourself,as this engine can produce much much more but idea to use car parts are just wrong. Balance that machine,i like it!!
Perhaps your battery doesn't accept as much charge. Try resistive loads, like couple of 80w 12v head lights without battery plugged.
For noise comparison could you start a petrol engine beside it??
That's a good idea! If I think about it I'll get my chainsaw out next time!
you need to do some balancing otherwise it will shake itself to bits over time. I suggest you weigh all the articulating parts and weigh them individually and get the best weight.
all you now need is a loud train horn to hit every now and then.🤣🤣 Train coming thru. a smaller Alternator pulley should make the alt put out more amps etc. Can you try adding another alt and run 2 alts.
Hello you have definitely made me think about the different types of wood that I burn for different purposes, here in American I use two types of wood. For a fire place I generally use mulberry wood as it does not produce a lot of as and smoke and burns relatively hot. But for a very hot fire here in the Midwest region, we use a very dense wood called Osage orange. If remember correctly, if you were able to cut it, it was the best fuel for boilers as it burned so hot.
I'll look into that, I should proberbly learn a bit more about wood types!
Electrician here, alternator gearing on an ICE engine does roughly 3000rpm from idle alone, you're on the right track with limiting the field, gear up the alternator and use a 5v 2a usb on the field
Engineer here... 😁
Hi, I've just been out to the garage and have isolated the field windings from the rest of the regulator and have separate wires coming out. I've just ordered a 12V PWM speed controller to hopefully vary the field strength! We will see, stay posted. I'll measure the Alternator speed next test run to check I'm getting enough speed, Cheers
You need to put a load on your battery to find out what your engine will put out. All it is doing right now is maintaining the battery.
A rocket stove or similar would improve efficiency
Would love to see a schematic of the engine. But I do have a sorta theory about increasing torque from re arrangements of the rod and piston cycle.Just a thought.
and what does it do?? I wasted 15 min to browse your videos to learn, that actually this engine is just a big dummy, not propelling the wheels beneath :D
I can't tell you how much I had to resist making this self propelled!! Watch out for the Mk3 engine which should address this!
Maybe you should try a rocketstove instead of your conventional stove. Higher temperatures and less emission of smoke
I'll look into that for Mk3, thanks
Mabe a little ducted fan feeding extra air ?pellet feed for consistency.?
Awesome; 10 kilowatts of fire power input, to get about zero watts out.
Make your moving parts lighter. Reciprocating weight causes parasitic loss. In this case you need a flywheel but the lighter everything is the less energy it takes to move. The faster it moves the less it takes to maintain speed . The other side is the drag of the alternator.
Thanks for your comments. I had to Google parasitic losses! I understand now! Got me thinking about losses in general, particularly heat!
Adding a diode in series should prevent your battery from backfeeding your alternator. I suspect you are losing quite a lot of power to heat in the alternator windings.
Also, mounting the alternator to a spring loaded lever arm should let you swap pulleys without having to adjust the length of your belt. You can even do a variable spring simular to a watch spring so you can play around with different belt tensions.
And that most alternator’s have a fan on them when in a car
Yes, the windings are getting hot! I'll look into that, thanks
Alternators have diodes already. What’s happening is because it’s turning slower than a car would the regulator is pushing more current through the rotor. Which generates more heat trying to maintain the charging voltage. Auto alternators are not that efficient. A permanent magnet dyno with a 3 phase diode pack into a PWM regulator would be the most efficient. I believe I saw on Amazon a compact tractor setup that does this.
@@perrymattes4285 Huh, you are correct. My bad.
really cool. I'm no expert on stirling engines, but would it help to create a larger delta between the hot and cold side? I love the passive cooling simplicity, but i wonder if it would make it more efficient to pump the water and have a mechanically driven fan on a bigger radiator.
I think it defiantly will! Engine Mk3 is in the planning stage and I'll try to maximise this differently. The fan is a good idea for sure.
@@ShanePomeroy you spurred me to do more reading on the subject! I found a way to increase torque is to increase the pressure of the working fluid as well (air). That may also require to increase the piping size in the transfer to help reduce pumping losses. Just another thought. Can't wait to see what you come up with next!
12:10 Car alternators are designed to run at 10k, maybe 12k RPMs. They're geared to run 3 times the speed of the engine, witch is for most cars, 3.5k max at cruising speed. (I know they can spin up to 6,750 RPMs, but usually don't.)
They're somewhere arround 63% efficiency at best, running slower it can get worse. Maybe you could have a look at some universal motors, (out of old drills machines or blenders) they're dumb easy to run as generators.
Another kind of motor you can use to generate are induction motors, found in washing machines and a lot of other equipments. To run them as generators, you'll need to put some capacitors in paralel with the windings. It's a bit tricky, since you can't start under load, and they stop generating when overloaded. But I did turned on fluorescent lamps with this kind of motor. (not mine, just an exemple: ua-cam.com/video/tqy4nJ4cZ5A/v-deo.html)
Just subscribed your channel, please, keep up this great work you're doing developing this engine! Saudações do Brasil
Hello, thankyou for your advice. I think you have a firmer grip on charging systems than myself! lol. I'm currently looking at these options to hopefully replace the alternator, cheers
@@ShanePomeroy been working with these for a while...
Try a chain drive, more efficient than a belt.
smaller pulley will make it spin faster and put out more
Bung a motor from a hoverboard on there, or from a treadmill!
You might have more success with a smaller alternator
I would Place magnets around your flywheel then place a coil of wire in close proximity and see what you get out of it. Every time you exchange energy you lose some of it. Using a belt to change RPM is a loss. Automotive alternators are inherently inefficient. Once you find The Sweet Spot with your magnets and coil you could always use a buck-boost converter to change your voltage.
Good idea! It might be the way to go eventually . I'm playing about with a hoverboard motor at the moment but I will still have the problem of finding the sweet spot, thankyou
A car alternator is not efficient, efficiencies of 60% are quoted quite widely, and they get even worse at low power outputs, I have seen figures of 10% quoted at an output of 10W. On a car engine this isn't going to make a noticeable difference, where available power is limited its going to be a deal breaker. I would consider either using a permanent magnet alternator, perhaps re-using a second hand motor, the sort that are used for wind turbines, together with a wide range charge regulator, or even constructing you own permanent magnet generator as part of the flywheel, as the belt drive will be another source of loss. There are quite a few diy constructors who have made slow speed systems using multiple magnets cast into a flywheel type assembly with resin and self wound coils, to be used on for example low speed water wheels. I am sure you could get some ideas.
Hi Mike, eek.... I didn't know they were that bad. I'm going to do one more test with the existing alternator and then may need to re-think strategy. "permanent magnet generator as part of the flywheel" sounds like a really good idea. Hits two birds with one stone, Thankyou
@@ShanePomeroy Something similar to this is what I had in mind ua-cam.com/video/lbpRdme4Tpg/v-deo.html I would turn it 'inside out' having the magnets cast into the flywheel, and coils on the outside. Claims of 200W at 170 rpm are reasonable, some of the claims you see online are just not believable. Losses with this type of system will be an order of magnitude lower.
Have you considered using a gassifier in place of your conventional wood burner?
Cool project BUT I think you need a rectifier.
Your alternator produces alternating current(AC) and your batterie needs direct current(DC).
You can turn AC into DC with some diodes, just search for a bridge-rectifier.
(Diodes are like electrical valves, they only let current run into one direction, that's why you can use them to deal with AC)
This alternation is also the reason why your Wattage readings are all over the place!
i would look at a different generator ideally something out of a wind turbine (perm magnets) and hook it up with a charge controller to get your power readings
as for the alternator try putting a load on the battery (a couple of headlight bulbs) and see if the output changes i think the circuitry in the alternator is seeing the basicly full battery and not out putting anything hence the figures jumping all over the place I think once you apply a load you'll see consistant output followed by added load and stalling of your motor also the gearing for the alternator is off it needs to be in the 3000-4000 rpm range which you might be able to achieve if you correct your gearing and allow it to spin upto speed with the field disconnected then connect the field windings and see how it performs
Hi, I've binned the alternator and am doing what you've suggested. The next setup trial will have a PM motor from a hoverboard which seems ideal in theory! Watch out for next video!
Do you have any drawings? Is it possible to get them from somewhere? Interesting videos, thanks. Best regards
just connect 12v halogen lamps in parallel till you have about 500-1000w ... they discard the generated energy and let you meassure it...
An alternator that has been used before. Will have enough magnetism in it. That you dont need to energize the field wire. Just connect it to the output. It wont be as efficient but wont be so demanding. But if you want to energize the field wire. Use a pluse circuit. You can use a 555 chip or an arduino.
I think you need a voltage regulator
put a load on the battery 100w light
Nise job👍👋
Thank you! Cheers!
you will never get a 14 V, reading from a meter if the meter is hooked up to the battery unless the battery is already at 14 V, to get an accurate reading of what is being put out of the alternator unhook the battery ,what ever it reads then is what your battery will come to in time
this only applies if you have a low amp out put like what you got
Convert your alternator to a PMA. The engine should be able to push this just fine and increase the RPM.
ua-cam.com/video/7KfHji41fDA/v-deo.html
alternators have optimal RPM, if you can't get it from datasheet, spin it by other means like car wheel to determine optimal RPM, and calculate it for RPM of stirling
And let's not kid ourselves, setup like this would be considered amazing at 1% efficiency
As of load, water heaters are ideal
That would actually be a good idea! thinking about it I could spin it with my lathe?
@@ShanePomeroy not sure what rpm lather can achieve, but that might be good idea, also could use heaters as load without rectification
8:56 I'm fairly certain that you need to be spinning the alternator faster. Idle RPMs in a vehicle is 500-600RPM. Some go up to 1000RPMs. You've got a lot of torque, it seems, so you should be able to add in a gear ratio to bring the RPMs up. Another issue you might be running into is the type of alternator you've got running. Some will spin fairly freely up until they get into charge range, then the resistance increases significantly. These are fine for vehicles because there's a LOT of torque coming from the engine... You may want to look into something like a windmill generator which can generate at lower RPMs, and don't have as much resistance. They don't generate as much as a car alternator, but it's a decent amount. You may also want to investigate electromagnet vs permanent magnet generators.
Thankyou , all of what you've said makes sense. The biggest issue I've had is the generator draging the engine down. I need something that will allow it to get up to speed and then progressively apply load as speed increases. In my later video's I've been using a pernament magnet motor ( hoverboad motor) with some success. Thanks alot
Alts put out the same power at any rpm
That engine is fantastic!
You need a proper "dummy" load for the generator to get meaningful results. Get a couple of car headlamps to start with.
Well done! I have an answer. Why you do not use a boxer conf
iguration?
Hi, I've never seen a stirling engine with this configuration, but then who knows, Some to look into?
77 dcb isn't bad at all.
Very nice !! Well done !! Replace the alternator with a treadmill motor.. they are high voltage brushed dc motors and they are working good as generators..
Great idea! Cheers
@@ShanePomeroy Cheers mate !!
I am interesting for build on
Fantastic, you need to put 2 pulley on the transmission and get more angle grip on the alternator
Would it be possible to integrate this engine with, say, a grain thresher / winnower?
I don't see any reason why not...
Usa un motor brushless ( uno de hoverboard 12 v puede servir) como generador. Los transistores de efecto hall ya te dan voltaje estabilizado. Saludos desde Uruguay.
Alternators need a load to get them going. Put a light in the circuit to get it going.
try air heat expansion flap engine instead, flex flaps are more durable and less destroyed than moving/rotating pistons and turbines, bearings
Yes, Using pistons with their associated friction troubles me very much. Have you got a link to one of these flap engines you talk of? I'm interested, many thanks
@@ShanePomeroy well they flex, many possible configurations, main one being a flap engine that emulates the piston function of the normal stirling engine, but only flex as their main movement, some kind of flap valve (hole with a cover flap stirling engine, possibly one or two hole flaps)
@@Jkauppa Ah yes, I think I know the ones you mean. Is it like these ones www.google.co.uk/url?sa=i&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3Dv_e0981CLDI&psig=AOvVaw02GpCRRa8YJ0miSBK7XqxM&ust=1682261931563000&source=images&cd=vfe&ved=2ahUKEwil7IiY4L3-AhUykicCHXGQBEgQr4kDegUIARC9Ag
@@ShanePomeroy well no, more like a metal strip sheet that bends, but maybe, I meant a more rigid cantilever flap instead, so that its the least complex and self-supporting lever leaf spring
@@ShanePomeroy it might be that there is no direct example, its a novel idea, kinda, application of the bending cantilevers
You could try a smaller alternator, Amazon sells a 35 amp for small tractors.
the engine is perfect the car alternator is not suitable as a low rpm generator you need to bin the alternator and use something more suitable like suggested in the comments ie from a wind turbine or stepper motor also love the snoopy t shirt
I think your right! I've binned the alternator and am now fitting a motor from a hoverboard ( 3 phase, high torque type thing) cheers
@@ShanePomeroy shane have a watch of this vid about using a universal(motor washing machine motor) as a generator it explains it super simple plus i think theres lots of other things there you will get ideas from
ua-cam.com/video/gJrpwhBHpVM/v-deo.html
Could possibly use some more or less lead shot in the fly wheel? Chains are extremely efficient at transferring power. Also I really enjoy this project
You should NOT be using the coil exciter in the generator but rather a speaker type ring magnet (make sure you know what you're doing though!) and use preferably the strongest neodymium types (#45/55?) that should do the trick.
the oil companies would completely hate this idea: run an engine on any fuel you can burn oh the horror.
steam does work but you would need monotube boilers (for speed) and there is always a delay of some kind with that specific technology. also the maintenance would be kinda nasty having to clean out all that water mineral deposits. but a sterling engine you dont have that but the power is so much less vs steam with pistons or turbines but the maintenance would be so much less.
77 dB isn't bad, Honda inverter generators, at about 10 ft depending on the load do anywhere between 60-70 dB, the average open frame does maybe 80. Conversation is on average about 60.
That’s an interesting mechanical device you have built there. How I pictured a Sterling is engines is running on the leftover heat produced by something necessary like the steam lines in New York City the heat of black asphalt in the summer, the heat off of a tar roof the heat from a muffler, which does come close to what you’re doing. But my idea was to use the Sterling engine to produce electricity from the wasted energy that goes into the atmosphere from all the things we do. It doesn’t make sense when its efficiency is so bad like a wood-burning stove circulate water through a radiator. Circulating the water from your hot water heater in your house that would make more sense using a Sterling motor to produce energy from heat sources. Like building a Sterling engine to sit on top of your air conditioning unit as it exhaust hot air producing air conditioning for your house.