I have one. Tried it with a 12V analog booster pack 18200 lead/acid and no go. Used a nice big BMW 105 Ah battery and welds like a motherfkr at 20 setting. I ran a huge solder bead down each of the copper rods on the board to increase the surface area of board contact.
Yup, battery power is the way to go to ensure it can deliver enough current for a proper weld! :) Check out my other spot welder as well! ua-cam.com/video/mgQwVT7V_q4/v-deo.html
i have 90A AMG BMW battery, first welding and device is in short circuit, i thing transistor is KO. I think it was my fault bc i use it in 100 setting...
I don't know what a contact iron is. Does it use heat? If it does, that was exactly what I was avoiding from soldering. But something is better than nothing. :)
@@ImaginationTech I call it that cus it heats the strip instant and joins the 2 together if tinned first that is but ive has issues with a pack without the support structure as it is on my bike 👍
If it's instant, then yeah I guess it's ok since hopefully the temperature doesn't propagate too much. A regular soldering iron needs to stay in contact with the 18650 too long that's why it heats it up too much.
Thanks for the video. Really appreciate it. I bought the same unit and could not figure out the beeps and the LED lights. Couldn't make mine work, maybe the battery I was using was also pretty dead. Couldn't get the supplier to give me any other info on the LED and beeps as well. Was about to chuck it in the bin. Thumbs up to you.
I'm glad this video helped someone! Yes, the beeps are very confusing! Something I learned after I made this video is that there are two "green modes", presumably low/high, that puts out regular bursts, whereas the red only pulses when connected. I've found the high green mode works best for me. :)
How many amps are needed to get a proper spot weld? I’m wondering if Lipo batteries are the way to go, or if Lithium ion batteries will have enough current.
It needs a fairly high current for a very short amount of time. Based on other DIY spot welders, you would need 100A or so which is why a LiPo is ideal. LiIon usually can't deliver as high a current.
T1 is a voltage regulator, but I'm not sure which one. Unfortunately, I broke mine a long time ago. This is what I've been using for some time now. 👉👉 ua-cam.com/video/mgQwVT7V_q4/v-deo.html
Used a 3S LiPo and a not-fully-charged 4S LiPo. Some people have told me this can handle a fully charged 4S LiPo as well (16.8V) even if it's only rated to 14.4V. Haven't tried so try at your own risk.
8A should be enough to power the board and make it beep, but not enough to make a spot weld which you'll need about 100A or so. Try it with a car or motorcycle battery, if it still doesn't work your unit is busted.
Thanks so much for the video, I just ordered one of these and I was worried it would not work well... I have a 4S 45C 5,000Mah lipo I’m gonna connect it to... should work
Yup, it'll work. Just finished a video on a newer spot welder though - ua-cam.com/video/mgQwVT7V_q4/v-deo.html The mod I did on that one should help prevent burned mosfets on this too, though not sure which pin would be the equivalent as I don't have mine anymore.
This unit works really well with a car battery. Mine is 340cca. I've tried using a Li-ion battery I made 12.6v 12ah and it wouldn't do anything. May try and make a 40ah 3s battery pack to see if that will work better.
Liion batteries generally can’t deliver high enough amps that spot welding requires. You want to make sure you can do about 100A instantaneous, so the car battery is perfect, as well as a high C-rating LiPo👌
The soldering machine acts as a timer and current limiter. It has nowhere to bring more amps than the source gives. Soldering is done by the battery amperage. That's why it works very well with car batteries, which have high short-circuit amperage.
What power source are you using? A spot welder is just a stopper for the current. Without it it's just like connecting the spot welding tips directly to your battery or power source, so if you can't make a weld first suspect is the source.
@@fadli1987 try connecting the spot welding leads directly to your batteries (no spot welder). Touch them to a piece of nickel strip. Sparks should fly and it means your spot welder isn't working. If not, your power source can't deliver enough amps. Warning: be careful not to touch both leads, and be especially careful you don't touch both leads to your self.
never use with depleted batteries. the voltage of the battery is feeding the mosftes controller directly (through a 5v controller offcourse). if it sag too much (get really low), the controller will mess up and could short the board while the leads are soldering (it means boom)
Thanks, this is really useful bit of info. I eventually wrecked this spot welder, but might be because I tried with 4S (sure wasn't with a depleted battery), or it might just have been it's time, IDK. But I did get plenty of spot welding done with it (biggest was a 10S3P pack, 30 batteries).
@@ImaginationTech ah yes, i saw a bunch of those being on fire for some unknown reason... i bought one recently, not that model, but soon i'll try with 1s battery and see how it goes. I'm feeding the board with another battery, so the board "have a 12.6v battery" when in fact is only 4.2. Just connected the negative of the battery through the board, and the positive straight to solder leads. In that way the voltage of the board is independent from the voltage of the welding battery, should be safe. Should...🤣
You should make a video on that, it would be quite useful. Unfortunately I don't have any spare transformers so it wouldn't be free if I were to do it. :)
it has 5 power settings. hold button down to achieve each setting, a beep notifies which setting you are in. 1 beep when powered on = lowest power. 5 beeps = most power.
Oh i've got one and blew it like in few seconds. The battery i was using was 110Ah 850A type. The overall spot welder is good but you forgot to mention one the most important thing. higher the voltage, the less chance blowing this up. The manufacturers i hope, didn't think about what will happen when you basically short the battery out, especially lead acid ones. The voltage drops from 12.6 fully charged to 8 or 9 volts in microseconds but that time is enough to undervoltage gate voltage source and basically the mosfet is not fully open and can cause gate source internal shortage and then the mosfet stays open forever so basically no reaction from the IC to open and close . You can make the one simple change by changing the gate resistor to less ohm value. And i will also add some heatsinking on top of the mosfets to keep them nice and cold and solder some traces going in and out on the PCB, that will also help to get better welds. This is really DIY because when you use them wrong, you'd ended up with a blown welder and forced to buy another and improove it a bit.. mine just blew up in fourth try to spot weld... i'll give it 4 out of 10
Pinning your post, since I think that's some really useful info right there! :) This was my first spot welder, and I'm using a much nicer spot welder now for the same price as this one. Until I get a KWeld or something at lest :). Check it out here - ua-cam.com/video/mgQwVT7V_q4/v-deo.html
@@ImaginationTech i think about my comment and i need to change something. The higher the voltage, the less chance blowing this up is kinda right but there is something. You don't need to power this from one common source, you can power this from basically another powersupply, nevertheless, you're connecting only negative rail through the board. Positive is just hanging there for powering the board. Make some direct probes from positive terminal of the battery and another positive connection from another powersupply. The voltage should be the same but there should not be happening this gate phenomenon... should not but could 🤷 These chinese welders are a little bit tricky to operate with
@@ImaginationTech im currently using portable spot welder MinderRC DH30 MAX. Pretty cool spotwelder but as always , it needed some mods because i almost blew this too. The traces are non existing, needs to add a lot of solder to prevent this. Internal Battery is 10Ah and with this mod it could even weld 0.2mm nickel stripes
Depends on the video I guess. This one is for my first impressions, so the video is taken while I'm trying it out for the first time without prior testing.
Not gonna argue with that, it is a crap design. But it does the job, at least it should. What battery you using? The device just stops the flow of current so it just puts out a short pulse, it's the full power of the battery that creates the weld. So if it can't weld, you likely don't have enough input power.
I only showed information about how heat transfers quickly, even with a quick tap, and that heat stays on and spreads through the battery. If all you have is a soldering iron, then yeah that would be the best (and only) tool you have for the job. But, it's wrong to say that you should solder if you can spot weld instead. Spot welding will still be the optimal way to join 18650s.
Noted, but so you know I've built an electric skateboard Li-Ion pack with this, and probably 20-30 4S/6S quad Li-Ion packs for myself and others on commission and a couple more electric skateboard batteries for customers albeit using a different but equally cheap spot welder.
![[Eng sub] DIY- How to make a home use simple spot welder with car battery](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/8bxBGA0L8NQ/mqdefault.jpg)
UPDATE: I'm using a much nicer spot welder now for the same price as this one. Check it out here - ua-cam.com/video/mgQwVT7V_q4/v-deo.html
Thank 🙏 my friend 👍
Welcome 👍
I have one. Tried it with a 12V analog booster pack 18200 lead/acid and no go. Used a nice big BMW 105 Ah battery and welds like a motherfkr at 20 setting. I ran a huge solder bead down each of the copper rods on the board to increase the surface area of board contact.
Yup, battery power is the way to go to ensure it can deliver enough current for a proper weld! :) Check out my other spot welder as well! ua-cam.com/video/mgQwVT7V_q4/v-deo.html
i have 90A AMG BMW battery, first welding and device is in short circuit, i thing transistor is KO. I think it was my fault bc i use it in 100 setting...
Can use solder if ya do it with contact iron and clean n tin both nickle strip and battery terminal but it's more work and don't use normal iron 😅
I don't know what a contact iron is. Does it use heat? If it does, that was exactly what I was avoiding from soldering. But something is better than nothing. :)
@@ImaginationTech I call it that cus it heats the strip instant and joins the 2 together if tinned first that is but ive has issues with a pack without the support structure as it is on my bike 👍
@@ImaginationTech it's jus like instant 150w iron but the tip is separated so it just heats the strip .....cus I didn't have spot welder at the time
If it's instant, then yeah I guess it's ok since hopefully the temperature doesn't propagate too much. A regular soldering iron needs to stay in contact with the 18650 too long that's why it heats it up too much.
Thanks for the video. Really appreciate it. I bought the same unit and could not figure out the beeps and the LED lights. Couldn't make mine work, maybe the battery I was using was also pretty dead. Couldn't get the supplier to give me any other info on the LED and beeps as well. Was about to chuck it in the bin. Thumbs up to you.
I'm glad this video helped someone! Yes, the beeps are very confusing! Something I learned after I made this video is that there are two "green modes", presumably low/high, that puts out regular bursts, whereas the red only pulses when connected. I've found the high green mode works best for me. :)
What the recomended power input for spotwelder like that?? Can i use psu 12v 40A?? Or i should use car battery??
Use a car battery. Your 40A supply would either trip the safety protection and shutoff or just not be able to supply enough amps.
@@ImaginationTech ok. Thank you for the input.
How many amps are needed to get a proper spot weld? I’m wondering if Lipo batteries are the way to go, or if Lithium ion batteries will have enough current.
It needs a fairly high current for a very short amount of time. Based on other DIY spot welders, you would need 100A or so which is why a LiPo is ideal. LiIon usually can't deliver as high a current.
Hi friend if you still have this I need your help. I have the same and T1 component burned .....can you tell me what it is? send me aphot or read it?
T1 is a voltage regulator, but I'm not sure which one. Unfortunately, I broke mine a long time ago. This is what I've been using for some time now.
👉👉 ua-cam.com/video/mgQwVT7V_q4/v-deo.html
@@ImaginationTech Thanks any way 😃. Have a nice day
Very good video. But what size of nickel strip did you use?
This was 8mm wide x 0.1mm thick, but 0.15 might be better for general use and it takes in more current too.
@@ImaginationTech I have this welder, it can't do 0.15, even after being modded with a thick line of solder along the mosfets.
hi How many ampere battery did you use.
I have the same product and it has never been welded
You will need something that can deliver about 100amps. A 1300mah 80c or higher should do it. Or a motorcycle/car battery
@@ImaginationTech Use 50A car battery and it has not welded. There is a pulse but not welding
100A, bro. That's not enough power.
100A, bro. That's not enough power.
@@ImaginationTech I'm sorry if I made a 18650 200A lithium battery, would it work? Thank you
If am to build my own batter recommend the amp rating for a 4s
Not sure if it will take a 4S though, but 2200mah with a high enough C rating should be good.
thanks for the video. I am quite clear about the battery sets used/recommended, would you repeat/write in your text pls? thanks
Used a 3S LiPo and a not-fully-charged 4S LiPo. Some people have told me this can handle a fully charged 4S LiPo as well (16.8V) even if it's only rated to 14.4V. Haven't tried so try at your own risk.
I conneted to 12v 8A power and it is no light indication or no buzzer beep from board. Can 12v 8A support ?
8A should be enough to power the board and make it beep, but not enough to make a spot weld which you'll need about 100A or so. Try it with a car or motorcycle battery, if it still doesn't work your unit is busted.
@@ImaginationTech thanks for info. I will try connect with car battery and will confirm with light indication or hear beep sound.
@@ImaginationTech ung sakin nasubukan ko na sa lifepo4 4s6p 30ah hindi padin nya mapadikit ung nickle plate... Sira na kaya ung saakin??
Thanks so much for the video, I just ordered one of these and I was worried it would not work well... I have a 4S 45C 5,000Mah lipo I’m gonna connect it to... should work
Yup, it'll work. Just finished a video on a newer spot welder though - ua-cam.com/video/mgQwVT7V_q4/v-deo.html
The mod I did on that one should help prevent burned mosfets on this too, though not sure which pin would be the equivalent as I don't have mine anymore.
It's not rated for 4s, or? Did you fully charged it or only on storage charge?
@@petles I've tried it with a full charged 4S and it was fine. That said, if you have a 3S it'll probably be better.
This unit works really well with a car battery. Mine is 340cca. I've tried using a Li-ion battery I made 12.6v 12ah and it wouldn't do anything. May try and make a 40ah 3s battery pack to see if that will work better.
Liion batteries generally can’t deliver high enough amps that spot welding requires. You want to make sure you can do about 100A instantaneous, so the car battery is perfect, as well as a high C-rating LiPo👌
The soldering machine acts as a timer and current limiter. It has nowhere to bring more amps than the source gives. Soldering is done by the battery amperage. That's why it works very well with car batteries, which have high short-circuit amperage.
Exactly right!
Mine seems to run fine with a 105 Ah car battery. Welds really strong at a low setting actually lol.
where can u get those nickel strips ?
I've put the links in the description.
what is the max thickness of the nickel strips it can weld through? 0.1, 0.12 or 0.15 mm?
Using 0.12 here but should be fine with 0.15
Thanks for this video :)
Glad you liked it! :)
@@ImaginationTech Thanks, do you think it will like a 4S pack at all?
Hi sir..Can I use a 12v 5.0ah motorcycle battery ??? Can I know what is the minimum ampere value for this spot welder ??
Answered this on my other spot welder video ua-cam.com/video/mgQwVT7V_q4/v-deo.html
I just saw this video now. So that is how and why you are able to sell those Li-Ion packs! Good one!
Well, I got it initially to build myself an electric longboard battery. But might as well, right?
Bro ilang C yung gamit mong 3s dito?thanks.
100C 1300mah nga lang yan, kinaya naman hahaha!
100C x 1300 = 13A. Pwede rin 5000mah kahit 30C (15A) or higher.
@@ImaginationTech ok bro salamat,3s 5000mah 35c yung andito..umorder narin ako nung spot welder.
I've been use this same module but the weld can't perform well, even i use last level (red LED)
What power source are you using? A spot welder is just a stopper for the current. Without it it's just like connecting the spot welding tips directly to your battery or power source, so if you can't make a weld first suspect is the source.
@@ImaginationTech i have tested using lead acid from motorcycle, lead acid from UPS, even 18650 liion 3S but all them are not good
@@fadli1987 try connecting the spot welding leads directly to your batteries (no spot welder). Touch them to a piece of nickel strip. Sparks should fly and it means your spot welder isn't working. If not, your power source can't deliver enough amps.
Warning: be careful not to touch both leads, and be especially careful you don't touch both leads to your self.
never use with depleted batteries. the voltage of the battery is feeding the mosftes controller directly (through a 5v controller offcourse). if it sag too much (get really low), the controller will mess up and could short the board while the leads are soldering (it means boom)
Thanks, this is really useful bit of info. I eventually wrecked this spot welder, but might be because I tried with 4S (sure wasn't with a depleted battery), or it might just have been it's time, IDK. But I did get plenty of spot welding done with it (biggest was a 10S3P pack, 30 batteries).
@@ImaginationTech ah yes, i saw a bunch of those being on fire for some unknown reason... i bought one recently, not that model, but soon i'll try with 1s battery and see how it goes.
I'm feeding the board with another battery, so the board "have a 12.6v battery" when in fact is only 4.2. Just connected the negative of the battery through the board, and the positive straight to solder leads.
In that way the voltage of the board is independent from the voltage of the welding battery, should be safe.
Should...🤣
I made an inexpensive (i.e. free) spot welder by rewiring a microwave transformer's secondary coil
with a few turns of flexible 1/0 wire. Works great!
You should make a video on that, it would be quite useful. Unfortunately I don't have any spare transformers so it wouldn't be free if I were to do it. :)
I was going to do that as I have one wired for 24 volts but it gets uncomfortably hot.
it has 5 power settings. hold button down to achieve each setting, a beep notifies which setting you are in. 1 beep when powered on = lowest power. 5 beeps = most power.
Ohh, that's good to know! I broke mine, but if I remember right mine only went up to 3 beeps. Or I just couldn't figure it out.
ayos yan ah..bnabalak ko n dati bumili ng spot welder kaso mahal nga..
maganda gumawa ng pang off grid :)
Kaya nga, di ko ma-justify (sa ngayon) bumili ng industrial spot welder. Ok na to, para sa paminsan-minsang gamitan.
you didnt tight the out- screw '-', i'm having anxiety
Lol, don't worry I did tighten it eventually once I started using it.
Wow mura nito a. Tnx for sharing bro, gawa din ako heheh
Order na!
Haha I was just thinking the same thing “aand if you don’t have a soldering iron... you probably don’t have any business messing with this”
Right? 🤣
Hahahahaha right on!
Haha nice! You made one! How’s the 18650 experiment going?
Lots of things on the bench right now hahaha and almost burned something last night!
Oh i've got one and blew it like in few seconds. The battery i was using was 110Ah 850A type. The overall spot welder is good but you forgot to mention one the most important thing. higher the voltage, the less chance blowing this up. The manufacturers i hope, didn't think about what will happen when you basically short the battery out, especially lead acid ones. The voltage drops from 12.6 fully charged to 8 or 9 volts in microseconds but that time is enough to undervoltage gate voltage source and basically the mosfet is not fully open and can cause gate source internal shortage and then the mosfet stays open forever so basically no reaction from the IC to open and close . You can make the one simple change by changing the gate resistor to less ohm value. And i will also add some heatsinking on top of the mosfets to keep them nice and cold and solder some traces going in and out on the PCB, that will also help to get better welds. This is really DIY because when you use them wrong, you'd ended up with a blown welder and forced to buy another and improove it a bit.. mine just blew up in fourth try to spot weld... i'll give it 4 out of 10
Pinning your post, since I think that's some really useful info right there! :)
This was my first spot welder, and I'm using a much nicer spot welder now for the same price as this one. Until I get a KWeld or something at lest :). Check it out here - ua-cam.com/video/mgQwVT7V_q4/v-deo.html
@@ImaginationTech i think about my comment and i need to change something. The higher the voltage, the less chance blowing this up is kinda right but there is something. You don't need to power this from one common source, you can power this from basically another powersupply, nevertheless, you're connecting only negative rail through the board. Positive is just hanging there for powering the board. Make some direct probes from positive terminal of the battery and another positive connection from another powersupply. The voltage should be the same but there should not be happening this gate phenomenon... should not but could 🤷 These chinese welders are a little bit tricky to operate with
@@ImaginationTech im currently using portable spot welder MinderRC DH30 MAX. Pretty cool spotwelder but as always , it needed some mods because i almost blew this too. The traces are non existing, needs to add a lot of solder to prevent this. Internal Battery is 10Ah and with this mod it could even weld 0.2mm nickel stripes
I guess you need to testing before video
Thanks
Depends on the video I guess. This one is for my first impressions, so the video is taken while I'm trying it out for the first time without prior testing.
@@ImaginationTech
Excellent
Thanks for your time
I have 11.1v Lipo 5200 mah 35c continous/75 max burst
Can i use this battery
Thanks
@@mdaslamknl yup, that should deliver enough amps (35 x 5.2A = 182A).
For reference, I'm using a 100C 1300mah 3S LiPo (100 x 1.3A = 130A).
wow this is so useful! im bout to make one soon!
You should!
I'm going to use a lead acid starter battery. I think that will have the required amps :D
Yes, that will definitely do! Many DIYers use that as the power source since you don't usually have LiPos unless you're flying quads. :)
dude tie up those bolts there sparking
Yeah, it was scary. Learned my lesson 😌
I have one of these and I cannot get a decent weld regardless what battery I use. It is a crap design.
Not gonna argue with that, it is a crap design. But it does the job, at least it should. What battery you using? The device just stops the flow of current so it just puts out a short pulse, it's the full power of the battery that creates the weld. So if it can't weld, you likely don't have enough input power.
Um, get the correct soldering iron and know what you are doing and it's fine to solder them. WTH
I only showed information about how heat transfers quickly, even with a quick tap, and that heat stays on and spreads through the battery. If all you have is a soldering iron, then yeah that would be the best (and only) tool you have for the job. But, it's wrong to say that you should solder if you can spot weld instead. Spot welding will still be the optimal way to join 18650s.
You may want to stick to your drones
Noted, but so you know I've built an electric skateboard Li-Ion pack with this, and probably 20-30 4S/6S quad Li-Ion packs for myself and others on commission and a couple more electric skateboard batteries for customers albeit using a different but equally cheap spot welder.