Snapper Briggs Twin Engine Alternator Upgrade
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- Опубліковано 6 жов 2024
- This modified MTD tractor cobbled together from various surplus parts is a mule for experimenting with engine modifications, such as adapting for use with auto ignition components. This time around, we swap in Briggs and Stratton's higher end alternator, which came off a Snapper rider equipped with a 12 horse B & S IC motor. The second B & S 19 HP opposed flathead twin is slated to go into that Snapper chassis. The alternator needs to see at least 5 volts DC to work, and regulates amperage to the battery. The circuit now supplies DC instead of AC to the lights, the rear of which is an LED. For those interested in more on this project, you can look at the other videos about this and the Snappers on this channel.
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I give you props bro, that is some creative shit to get all of those gm car ignition parts to work tougher on a twin cyl briggs.. impressive.. 🤜🤛👍
Question: where exactly did you hook the red B+ wire from the regulator to?
Goes to battery+
The magnetic pickup from a 1968 chevelle that is on the briggs engine. That is a standard part from the manufacturer Sir ?? Could rewinding the coils under the flywheel increase the output from the engine ???
I look forward to see the Snapper with the big twin running Van. Thanks
You would need to add a regulator to limit alternator output to 13.8 VDC to avoid battery issues and over voltage to the ignition module
Also the magnet was removed from the pickup coil. The flywheel has the magnet.
@@vanstechcorral So the flywheel just has two magnets to trigger each cylinder or are there more than two magnets Sir ??
@@victoryfirst2878 4 cycle engine, spark fires on exhaust stroke as well, known as wasted spark ignition. Works with opposed twin 180 degrees apart.
So are alternators upgradable ?
I Have two identical Briggs and Stratton but one has a 16 amp alternator and the new one has a 9 amp alternator.
You should be able to. Alternators are under the flywheel. Use care in removing and use a puller so flywheel is not damaged.
do you have a part number for the upgraded stator or on what it came from?
@@wrecked3362 I don't have a part number, but it came off a single cylinder 12.5 Briggs that was on an MTD lawn tractor.
@@vanstechcorral So it doesnt matter which engine it comes from? All briggs have the same bolt patern for the stator?Opposed twin or single cylinder?
@@wrecked3362 Not sure. Has to match magnets underside of flywheel.
At 4:56 where did you soldered or spliced the couple red wires coming from the regulator red lead?
Into the switch that disconnects from the positive battery terminal.
Starter switch?
And does it have to be 2 red wires twisted together and plugged into that red wire terminal connector from the regulator? Sorry too many questions, I’m trying to see if I can fix mine
@@josem.2909 I changed to a different alternator. Also there is a pushbutton to energize the starter. The switch turns on battery power to the HEI ignition module and the coil and the positive side of the regulator is tied to that, as well as the switch for the lights. The ignition is a battery powered GM car ignition system.
@@vanstechcorral ok I think I get it, let me tell you something, I got an old mower and found it doesn’t charge the battery, but because it’s missing the wiring from the connector coming off the stator, (it could also be that the stator itself is burnt and won’t put out any voltage, but let’s suppose it does put out voltage and current) ok, I checked put those wires and judging by the connector seems to be the dual charging stator like the one you removed off your mower, it has one black wire and one red wire with a diode. So the wiring should be like this, the black wire (AC output) should go to the light switch and the red wire (with the diode) I should hook it to either the positive battery post or to the post on the solenoid connected to the +battery post,
Did I get it right?
@@vanstechcorral ok I think I get it, let me tell you something, I got an old mower and found it doesn’t charge the battery, but because it’s missing the wiring from the connector coming off the stator, (it could also be that the stator itself is burnt and won’t put out any voltage, but let’s suppose it does put out voltage and current) ok, I checked put those wires and judging by the connector seems to be the dual charging stator like the one you removed off your mower, it has one black wire and one red wire with a diode. So the wiring should be like this, the black wire (AC output) should go to the light switch and the red wire (with the diode) I should hook it to either the positive battery post or to the post on the solenoid connected to the +battery post,
Did I get it right?
Will this work on a 16hp opposed twin
It should.
If I run lights on my mower will this make sure the battery won't die correct?
Yes it will charge the battery.
How did you remove the Flywheel?
He used a puller. You do not need to use a puller, wastes time. Loosen the bolt screw it in like half way out pry bar under the flywheel put upwards pressure and one wack on the bolt hiding the flywheel while holding upwards pressure on flywheel with prybar it'll come right off doesn't hurt anything doesn't even damage the bolt takes 30 seconds
@@sawyerbennett8227 You can weaken the flywheel. It's not a pleasant experience when they disintegrate at 3000 rpm. It could be life-threatening or result in serious injury. Exchanging a few minutes for a lifetime of suffering is a terrible bargain.
Socket diameter ?😊
Can't recall at the moment but matched from SAE size, not metric.
What size socket u used to take fly wheel off
Can't recall now but used an air impact and socket. Measure nut head with calipers.
Also used a puller tool to avoid problems with flywheel cracking. Hammer blows a no-no.
My mower has a 1 and1/4 standard.
Can't you just cut the diode out instead of replacing the stator?
There are two separate sections in the old stator, that independently produce current, with different gauge wires and number of windings. The replacement produces one AC output that can be rectified into DC and regulated.
@@vanstechcorral You seem familiar with this. What would happen if I removed the diode and hooked a regulator up to it? (The same regulator in your video)
@@5.43v If you look at the Briggs engine manual you will see the regulator requires a different stator. Leads are not the same, the two output stator has one side on each part as common ground.
@@vanstechcorral So, it's impossible to use the ac side as dc?
@@5.43v Check out the leads with a multimeter while running the engine at varying speeds.
You making any $ on UA-cam?
Nah but they do
Sorry but the truth is that you only need the regulator system if you’re running a electric clutch because you need the extra amps. Otherwise the small one is sufficient I’m so tired of videos not properly given the proper content. I’m not picking you personally but had you actually told people this I would’ve applauded you but this is just another wrong content information video.
You're mistaken in this particular case because the custom ignition source, coil and car battery are needing regulated 13.8 to function, being car 12V equipment, and the lighting and tach are digital 12V LED. I am sure you know that unregulated voltages vary widely higher.
I need more power to run a sprayer pump so need to do this Mod good info re the coils
Just changed the stater coil and fitted the voltage regulator both with the two Yellow AC wires so I can get power to drive my spray pump This is a perfect upgrade as will charge a flat battery at 10 Amps and battery now floating at just over 14volts Now converted all lights to work on 12v DC and all good
The old AC and half wave DC battery trickle charge system with a the diode in the red wire is a well out of date low cost system that does not look after the battery very well in any shape or form
Are you saying above that the old Stator can be used with the diode in the wire work with a voltage regulator Is this the other regulator I see on ebay with just the one yellow wire please
Yes this does need explaining full by someone as it all seems not explains fully
But this post has got me working fine thanks for info
I also see there is a single yellow wire voltage regulator on ebay this is maybe the one to work off the original stater with the red and black wire would thing you would just use the wire with the half wave diode in it what do other people know
You didn’t show us where you ran the wires too and now you wired it so you really didn’t help us at all
@@skippy7545 There is no mystery. A basic understanding of electrical systems is very helpful. There are only positive and ground connections. Since there can be various colors of wires and connection locations, as well as safety cutoff switches, some portion must be left to the student's own discovery.