Ryobi Inverter Generator Won't Start / Surging - Carburetor Cleaning - RYI2200
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- Опубліковано 10 вер 2024
- How to fix a hard to start surging Ryobi inverter generator.
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Just wanted to say thanks. I have the same unit, and had a very slight stumble at idle, which was more pronounced when Auto Idle was turned on, but all was fine under load. Took the carb off and found a clog in the idle jet (what a tiny hole!). Running great now. Thanks again.
One good thing about working on the concrete floor if you drop the carb parts they don't have far to go. Not like on the back of my tailgate in the gravel driveway. Lol
thank you so much!! I had my gen repaired by an auth svc center under warranty for not starting. Took them 3 mths and they replaced all sorts of boards etc under warranty. When I got it back it would not run smooth, always surging, they said they couldn't put any more time into it. That was about a yr ago, and this weekend I was camping and got tired of the noise and found your video. It is AMAZING how much better it starts and runs now. I used to have to pull it 10 or more times, now the second pull it fires right up. Runs nice and smooth, both unloaded and with various loads. I like my gen again! All because of a clogged jet. I used the wire brush wire like you said and it was blocked but I finally got it cleared and ran some throttle body cleaner threw it.
Roy Blair thanks for comment. Glad to hear that things are running well now.
Just finished doing this on my unit and I couldn't be happier. Runs awesome again fires up first pull. Thanks for these videos. My old neighbor had one with the same issue tried telling me it wasn't fixable. I guess he doesn't watch UA-cam.
Here is what worked for me with an older 2200 ryobi generator that started but stalled in few seconds. I drained the old fuel that was in it for many months over the winter with not being started. I added a little dry gas and a little sea foam and about half a gallon of fresh alcohol free gas. I started it. It ran first with choke then without. But stalled after a couple of minutes. Better then previous but still stalling. So I tried shaking it while it ran. It helped. It ran longer. But eventually it stalled . I let it be for the day. The next day after about 24 hours, I started it again. It ran on choke so I switched to no choke- it still run. 2 minutes then 3 minutes with no sign of stalling. I went away and came back after about 10 of 15 min. It was still running fine and even. I figured if it didn't stall after 10 minutes it won't stall at all. I figure had fixed it.
What is meant by "dry gas"?
Dry gas is additive to gasoline . If there is water in the gasoline dry gas ( mostly alcohol) combines with water and removes n it from gasoline. How it removes it I don't know.but i think all three: water bound to alcohol and gasoline go into cylinders where water turns to vapor alcohol and gas burn
And vapor and smoke leave thru exhaust.
A couple of years ago I rescued the exact same kind of Ryobi off of the curb from a pile. I cleaned the carb and the tank twice before I was able to get it running perfectly. Not an easy beast to service it does have a Kawasaki engine and runs great even after sitting with fuel preservative in it for over a year.
These are very good little Gens. I have 2, one 2200, I have had for over 5 years and a newer 2300. I have repaired the 2200 a few times. easy to work on and I can find parts easy enough. watch for the easy start valve release spring. if it will not start look there. also the control board burns a resistor if overload to many times, cheap fix.
I believe I am having trouble with my RYi2200 easy start valve spring. When I try to start the cord gets ripped out of my hand. Valve clearance seems okay at .010 intake and exhaust, however I can not find the specs online. Any advice on where I can source the ACS spring or any adjustment recommendations are appreciated!
Just wanted to say thanks for the video. I had the exact same problem and your guidance fixed it without any parts.
Very impressed. You do a fantastic job of getting back to people and helping. Quite amazing. I hope they appreciate it !
Video was presented very well and did not waste time.
Thank you!
Thanks. It's getting harder these days. Too many subscribers to keep up.
Quite the complex little machine! Great video James.
I just did mine yesterday cleaned out those Jets running smooth now
Thanks for sharing, cleaned my car and got my ryobi running strong again.
Use off insect repelant to remove sharpie of any hard surface. Found that out from the guy that built my cabinets. And my 3 year old got the sharpie and call him to fix it. He hooked me up over the phone. Came off easy.
Douglas Steen great tip. Thanks.
Thank you for the video. I just had to clean the carb out because of surging at idle. Running great now.
I don't know but it seems to me that they do everything they can to prevent the average-Joe from working on these things, themselves. We have allot of equipment here on the farm, if I called a "certified" mechanic every time we needed service or repair we'd be broke before the next quarter. You just have to learn to deal with things yourself, that's where these videos come in handy. Never know what goodies you'll come across. Thanks !
Found one at the dump today
Can't wait to get it running
I removed the wheel assembly and pointless pull handle to get of the crazy vibration noise! works wounders!!!
great idea with the fuel shut off valve
I have a similar predator inverter doing this same thing for the last 2 years. I think this may be the problem with mine also. Another weekend project after I clean the carb lol
Some years ago I bought a cheap 1200 Watt Zipper Inverter generator. The engine is a 54cc 4-stoke !
I tested it for some minutes and was not satisfied with the engine.
It did not run steady and I could barely got any load on this.
I stopped all the tests and burried it in a corner. It is and looks new and now I am interested what was/is going on.
Tank and carburator does not show any problems (it was and is new).
I opened the valve cover and took some measurements. The bolts were fastened very different. Some were very loose and some were hard to open.
The intake valve clearence was nearly good but the exhaust valve had no measurable clearence...
So the cheap units lack from a good factory assembly. Bolts are not fastened right and settings are not set.
Now the small Zipper inverter has a lot of power for this small type of generator. 1000 Watts and some more is not a problem anymore.
Thank you , I watched your video and I fixed my problem. Now, It works.
Thanks! Got my Ryobi running again!
harder find videos on these older Ryobi's. I got the same kinda junker unit but out of a dumpster. Cleaned the carb up and hosed it off and its working about the same as yours. What a pain to take that case off but overall I cant complain for the price haha.
The Sharpie "9"s makes me think the previous owner of this generator may have been somewhere in the licit substance supply chain... That said, great work and thanks for sharing.
I picked one up the other day that had been curbed. The crankcase is full of oil, and gas indicating what is probably a leaking needle seat. The plug is also fouled from running that way, but it fired first pull with a shot of carb cleaner in the intake. It's just missing the side panel, maybe I'll find a replacement some day.
A good watch, as I'm looking to purchase a Ryobi inverter generator and seeing this video helps alot. Thank you
Mine is doing the exact same thing....leaking gas out of overflow to air cleaner.....I'll let you know in a couple of days if your fix works on it. Thanks James!
...and the idle jet was completely clogged just as you showed! Worst part was removing and re-attaching the case. Runs like a champ now and no gas leaks/overflow from anywhere.
Hey please answer this. Where does the bottom longer fuel long attach to to? The clear one. I can’t find a entrance as to where it connects.
How did you clean the idle jet as well
@@dogbonetc7623 If it's the line I think your talking about, it attaches to the air cleaner case on the left side. The only other clear one is the overflow that attaches to nothing...just hangs down to the bottom of the case. I started with aerosol carb cleaner spraying it inside and out....then took some pliers and yanked a wire from a wire brush and used the pliers to push it into the jet from the bottom (longways--- the 16 minute mark of the video shows it)
You are a genius. Thanks for sharing.
Glad to hear.
James Condon this is a long shot, your video was amazing I was able to take mine apart and clean out the carb with no issues. Now for the bad news the spring flew off when I separated the carb from the housing and I have no clue how the new spring and joint connect to the solenoid. By any chance would you happen to have an up close picture of the area?
Matt Torres are you referring to that little spring that is on the throttle plate that goes in between throttle servo and the throttle control arm?
James Condon yes that is correct
Matt Torres just uploaded an unlisted video that might help. Let me know if you can view the following link ua-cam.com/video/hijQVYIS9t8/v-deo.html
Always learn something from your videos, I want to share a little tidbit about screwdrivers. You probably already know about JIS Screwdrivers, (Japanese Industrial Standard). The flutes have a steeper shape and may help with the little Ryobi carb. Keep on Keepin’ On!
Just got a set of those. Did not have them when I made this video.
Well done, just what I needed, thanks!
This video is 10/10.
The nines are probably a crew number, great video! I'm about to tear into mine 👍
Nice video breakdown.
Thanks for the video! It helped me get the tubes straightened out. I bought my generator from someone who took it apart and then gave up on getting it going. The main jet was completely plugged. Does anyone know what the jet sizes are? I don't want to clean them until they are oversize.
I’d say that’s a win.
I have the same generator, it still doesn't sound that great. Try removing the spark arrester off the exhaust tip. My gen was out of action and I tried that it was super blocked with carbon
When you cleaned the carbon, did that do the trick for you?
My genny has always had a starting problem, but ran great when running. A few months ago, it just stopped running and has been sitting ever since, til now.
I've drained the float bowl and will will dump the fuel, I've tested the fuel pump, and tested for spark - all good. I'll give your suggestion a try and do as the video suggests and clean the jets if there's no carbon build up.
Any other suggestions?
@@richgran Yes it works fine now. I use it everyday still, it often hits the rev limiter when I use it to. I use it to run a coffee pod machine sometimes (1400w). I have a friend with the 1000rig ryobi generator too it was sitting for ages he thought it was broken. after he removed the spark arrester it works 100% now. Let me know if that fixes your gen 👍
The fuel is clean, the jet is clear, the exhaust baffle is also clear. So far, I haven't corrected anything from the last time I tried starting it, but I haven't dumped the fuel.
I'm going to reassemble it and start from scratch. I'll let you know what happens.
I replaced the fuel with stored but treated 87 octane ($2.79 at Sam's).
Considering everything I did and mentioned above, there weren't many directions to go. I appreciate your suggestion about the exhaust, but mine was clean (low hours).
What I did to get it started was torch the spark plug (old trick).
So, I have to ask, is the standard plug Hot enough?
Thanks for a great video and showing all that is needed in making a problem go away. Too add the screw that is above the main idle jet,,is there to control idle as well. After going through my carb, I found the engine running richer than before. I messed with that screw and found this,, the further that it's screw in the faster the engine would run,, the further it's screwed out the slower the engine would run. I tuned mine by letting it run a minuet or two and then dialing in the idle that was the smoothest, then put all the casing back on. Thanks again
John Roberson thanks for the compliment. You want to be careful with that screw on a generator. Generators do not idle so the screw is not needed to control minimum engine speed, but is required for holding the idle jet in on most. On a traditional generator, turning the idle screw in bypasses the governors ability to slow the engine down past the screw set point. An inverter generator does not have a mechanical governor, rather a servo motor. If the computer is telling the servo to close the throttle and the idle screw prevents, not sure if that would cause a problem with the computer or servo long term.
@@jcondon1 I had noticed that my spark plug on this generator was always rich looking and wet from to much gas,,making it hard to start and fouling plugs as well. Thought when I found this reaction to moving the screw some, that I might alleviate the running rich problem. I will report back when I find out if this indeed takes care of the rich problem. That screw was just about to the back of the idle jet in proximity , now it's a little bit past halfway from the center of the top of the idle jet.
John Roberson my only complaint about the Ryobi inverter generators is that they are hard to start. I think the compression release lets out a little too much compression. Often I have to turn the choke partially off when starting. Also worked on a Honda inverter that was running rich, it would eventually flood out and stall. Tried new jets unsuccessfully. Ended up replacing the carburetor which did fix the issue. Unfortunately the epa does not allow adjustable jets anymore or it would be an easy fix. Try running without an air filter for a short time and see if that fixes the issue. Sometime a dirty filter or one with too much oil on it will act to restrict air and richen things up. The other issue that causes a rich condition is the float being out of adjustment so the fuel level is too high in the bowl. I have seen this multiple times where I cut the fuel flow off while running and the rich condition goes away almost immediately. But most use plastic floats now which also cannot be adjusted :(
@@jcondon1 I tried using a hair dryer as a load for the set up. At 800 watts things were fine as well as 1200 watts , but when I went to 1500 watts the generator started to over load and the red light came on. I opened up the casing again and turned the screw in some more while running and with the hair dyer on at 1500 watt setting and got the generator where it would not over load. Thing currently is starting on the first pull. I'm sure as the plugs gets some carbon on it, it will have to be cleaned for the first pull thing to be kept happening. So far so good. Sure wish that there was away to get correct fuel mixture,,thanks Mr Government
@@jcondon1 I know this comment is a year old but you can order adjustable carburetors from China. Aliexpress is great for that.
I like to use a clear gas cup when I drain carb bowl to investigate fuel.
Works and looks great doing it
Thanks for this video. It really helps those of us who have this model to see what's "under the hood" without having to pull it apart ourselves! Just curious, why on earth did they design it to drain fuel into the air box instead of just letting it drain out the bottom?
My guess is that it will eventually make its way back to combustion.
sepulsteve: running the gas back into the engine is probably California CARB compliant. General rule: anything low performance on internal combustion engines, there you go.
Have you ever use that regular 90 gas, little more expensive but it adds a higher octane makes them run a little better !
Good job. It's good to see more troubleshooting videos on this genny.
My genny has always had a starting problem, but ran great when running. A few months ago, it just stopped running and has been sitting ever since, til now.
I've drained the float bowl and will will dump the fuel, I've tested the fuel pump, and tested for spark - all good. I'll check for carbon build up as recommended by another commentor, and do as the video suggests and clean the jets if there's no carbon build up.
Any other suggestions?
try using "Start your engines" stuff, that's what i use to get it going again after many months of storage. drain the bowl as you have, and all the old gas out of it, put a little bit of fresh gas, a whole can of start your engines, pull the cord a few times to get the fresh stuff moving into the lines, let sit for about 10 min, try to start, but only about 5 pulls, as to not flood it. you could even drain the bowl a 2nd time. few pulls to get fresh stuff in there, let it sit some more.... 5 more pulls... should fire up. I just did this method, with a new plug, and i did put a new fuel filter in it too
When I cleaned the Carburetor I found some debris. After cleaning and reassembling, it's started the 1st pool. That was a couple months ago. Recently I started the engine and it died with no warning. I tested for spark and all is good.. I have yet to look into the carburetor again but since it died quickly with no sputtering, I don't think it's fuel. The mystery continues.
Not sure if this will work for you, but i figured out the surging solution. IT"S THE GAS. I was using the regular gas trying to save money of course and it would surge all the time. One day I said what would happen if I switch to 93 Octane, and OMG this thing runs like a champ. I mean not problems at all. VERY QUIET.
great video! maybe the who owned was a Beetles fan "number 9, number 9, number 9" lol
Can you tell me where you got the replacement carb? I have 2 of these and figure I better have at least one carb on standby. I saw another channel had this very issue of the choke/fuel shutoff easy run knob being out of alignment. This indeed does wonders for the running of these little guys. I just used a marker for the exact spots to turn the knob! I run only no alcohol gas in these and always a preservative. Run em dry and drain before storage. Have had no issues with fuel after several years of intermittent use.
Don't get me started about rattles! 😂
3 years ago I was buying these generators from Auction Nation for 35 to 50 dollars each. They were returns from Home Depot and always listed in "NOT TESTED". And they all would not start. Out of the 7 that I bought, 6 would not start because of low oil. They all lost oil because the owners laid them on their side. Not one had an oil leak. The one that had the problem was due the a sheared key way pin on the stator. Replaced the pin and off it ran. All the units were 6 months or newer. I sold them for 300 each. Then the well dried up.
What a deal! These second generation Ryobi inverter are the best.
I believe I may have a sheared keyway pin on my 2200. Please let me know a part number or measurements if you can! I am tired of having the cord ripped out of my hand when I try to start it!
Great video, thanks!
I like how it messes with your camera
I pulled this out today after 2 years, gas goes out as fast as it goes in. Now I gotta go in and find the leak. Hopefully a bad gas line, but what a pain to get to.
Got to hand it to Ryobi / Baja/ Homelite their inverter gensets are very quiet. I bought a 900W propane Baja inverter genset that could easily carry on a conversation over without straining. It died after 17 hours and nobody in Florida would do warranty work on the Baja / Ryobi/ Homelite propane powered products. I had to return it after buying $20 in extra parts (filters, spark plugs, etc.).
Maybe a video on propane powered would be useful.
The very first thing you should’ve done was checked the air cleaner. The next thing that you should’ve done was changed the spark plug. Air, electricity and fuel are your three main components that you work with in the motor. If you can get good airflow and make sure that your electrical contact from your spark is good. Fuel should flow as long as it is fresh and you should always be using non-ethanol fuel
At 20:24 you mentioned cleaning the pilot jet. For clarification is the main jet or the low speed/idle jet?
Nice work! 👍👍
very good video, thank you
Thanks!
Thanks you for the Super Thanks!
I am doing this on the same generator but when i went to remove the bolt in the bottom of the air box it just spin and you can feel it slipping inside any tips on how to get that off? Other thn cutting it.
I did everything you did it runs only if I stay gas in carb .Could it be the pump.i did the needle ceat
Test all went well. Also this generator always started. 😢
I have the same generator and am looking into replacing my fuel lines due to their age. Do you know the sizes I will need or of a good inexpensive source?
Thanks for sharing your videos with us I am just fix my generator thank you so much for your video🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧👍👍it help me thanks
As small as the metering devices ( jets ), are so small almost anything will jam them up. Seems like a great area for some engineer to come up with a better way. One tiny flake of rust and your a no good.
thanks for doin this, in your opinion, i have this same generator, all the sudden, the idle wont surge when i use my microwave, it bogs . when its my space heater it wont power it at all. how come the motor wont throttle up by itself like it used to?
Thanks for the video! The power grid failed several years ago selling many generators and now they are old timers needing repair or so it would seem! Many out door types are hooked to propane. Propane last in storage where as Gasohol and diesel have limited storage before not being usable. Non alcohol gasoline is available but will it last in storage???. Honeywell sells a 20KW installed Gen with a sleeved engine. Is that a good thing? Battery to AC converters are quiet. They have non acid batteries now that endure many years but upfront cost is high! No Solar here in the winter just snow! Ron
What's going to happen if you're running it like that it'll put out power, but by it running crappy like that it will start to run hot, end up killing your generator
Seems kinda weird that it surges so high before it settles when load hits it, is that a normal thing with these smaller gens?
Is yours pretty easy to pull start? I ask because I just found one and it seems medium tension to pull but spray in gas(spark works) and no go.
I think wd40 cleans off permanent markers also.
Перед длительным хранением сливайте бензин и дайте ему поработать и самому заглохнуть.
Проблем не будет.
Также с бензопилами и косилками.
They surge until nice and warm
Hello need help on my gen. It don't start i change the coil on it and still don't start i don't have no spark on the coil need help
James,
I'm not getting any spark at all at the spark plug. I have changed the plug, ignition coil twice, ignition module once and checked the oil level cut out. Any other thoughts? Definitely an electrical issue and not fuel related. Can I check the ignition coil with a multimeter? If so what should the primary and secondary coil readings be? I have around 1 to 1.5 ohms on the primary and no reading at all on the secondary (infinite resistance). I have tried three ignition coils and get similar readings on all of them. Should I be getting 2.5 to 5K ohms on the secondary? What else should I check?
Regards,
Ray
If not already, unplug the black small wire going to the coil. It sill not spark then the col is the issue. I have only tested the secondary on a Briggs coil and it was at 4.7 ohms. Done in this video at 10:30 ua-cam.com/video/Xa-akQ0Xl0I/v-deo.html
Also make sure the coil is not on backwards and the metal on the coil is making a good ground connection on the engine block where you put the screws in.
@@jcondon1 Thanks but the set up seems to be different on the Ryobi. The ignition coil has a blue and black wire going to it and the coil actually mounts on the plastic casing. It doesn't appear that the ignition coil is grounded through the mounting screws as they also go into the plastic casing. I'll double check this. I'm assuming the ground is through the black wire and the power and maybe the pulse is coming from the blue wire. I can't find anything on this unit on the internet. Checked that the screws holding the coil to the engine are just into the plastic case, no ground. Is there a "pulser" unit somewhere in the circuit? Is there a repair manual available for this machine? I measured 16K ohms between the spark plug cap and ground on the engine. The primary is 1.5 ohms.
Ok. I was worried that it might be using something a little more advanced like a CDI and a pulse generator. I have not worked on one of these yet. Is it the same model as in this video? RYI2200?
@@jcondon1 Yes it's identical to your video, you can see the blue and black wire going to the coil in the video but if you look at the coil mounting it's into the plastic casing. It must be grounded through the black wire as when I tested the plug cap to engine ground resistance I got 16K ohms. If you measure from the plug cap to the core of the coil you get infinite resistance. In the wiring diagram it mentions a pulse generator which seems to be a coil. The only thing I have not replaced is the pulse generator and I have not seen this part listed anywhere for sale. Does anyone know anything about the pulse generator, where can you buy one and exactly where on the engine is it located? Any help much appreciated.
Hi
Did you ever get the spark problem figured out? I have the same problem. I only changed the plug and replaced the coil. Thanks
you should always start out with evacuating all the old gas, putting in enough premium fuel to run tests, and of course if the float had fuel in it, DO YOU THINK YOU WOULD HAVE even got it to start at all?
I have the same unit, it turns on fine but the overload light stays on and doesn't switch to power what could be the problem
thanks in advance from PR
Most likely the inverter module is bad.
@@jcondon1 thanks
Great video try an NGK CR7HSA to replace its factory Torch branded plug. It is the exact same cross reference only built vastly much better and each one without variation... be sure it’s gaped .024 to .028. Try to get it dead in the middle. If it is still hard starting after some runtime it is okay to go one heat range hotter to an NGK CR6HSA, but don’t unless you need to. Also switch to ethanol-free gasoline stabilized with Stabil or PRI-G. Change the oil once immediately going with any Synthetic 10W-30. Personally, I run Mobil-1, but just make sure it’s changed at least once since you got it. Next that air filter that was coated in gasoline needs to be cleaned and oiled lightly. I use K&N oil. Finally, remove and clean that spark arrestor.
NETWizzJbirk thanks for the info. I am currently working on a Honda EG2200X. It starts and runs well, but running rich and misses sometimes. I pulled the NKG plug and the gap was twice what it should have been. After re-gapping no change. I had a new NKG which was one step hotter. Runs perfect. Bought a new NKG spark plug same as the original and does not run perfect. Any idea why the hotter plug runs the engine better and is it going to cause damage if I run with it?
@@jcondon1 Good evening. Yeah this happens sometimes with small engines. Short answer is that I would run the hotter plug provided it is a genuine NGK and only one (1) heat range hotter. A cheap Chinese plug (i.e. Torch) probably has an entire heat range variance plug to plug for the same part number! In fact, I also have a Ryobi 2200 inverted I bought from a friend for $300. Every other original Torch plug has a slight miss, and the good ones last about 25 hours before they start to miss. I changed to the NGK on the cross reference chart, and 200 hours later still no misses, no pings, and no plug changes. Longer answer: A TON of factors come into play from compression, to fuel type, timing advance, and the mixture, but there is an ideal temperature range for a spark plug. Basically, if it runs too cold it builds up deposits and foules, but it is not sudden. It starts to miss a little and possibly becomes hard starting all the way to the point it is unable to run/start. When the temperature is in the ideal range the plug is self cleaning and deposits burn away. You can get great service when a plug operates in this range. Finally, if the plug is too hot, there is the risk of self-ignition, where the engine starts acting a bit like a diesel only the fuel ignites at the wrong time and burns unevenly causing pinging. This is a tel-tale sign the plug is too hot. While it can cause damage over extended periods of time, I doubt one heat range is going to cause pre-ignition. One thing you could do for example if it is a concern is upgrade the gasoline one grade to a higher octane, which resists pre-ignition better. An engine that knocks and pings on 87 for example may run great on 91 or 93. Certainly no harm other than to your wallet comes running a premium gasoline, but if the unit runs without any detonation problems 87 is great especially for most small engines, which do not have a lot of compression and should not need high octane fuel. Looking at an older EU2000i manual and the service manual from 15 years ago they contradicted one another in that one recommended a CR5HSB and the other a CR6HSB, so even Honda is not always sure. That machine ran great (still does) on the CR5HSB, which is the hotter of the two and the one it came with out of the box back in 2004, so I never tried the colder plug. My 2018 EU2200i clearly states CR5HSB in both the owners manual and the service manual, so I stick with that plug... It also runs great on that plug though I have all of 17 hours on that machine.
I am more curious why it is operating rich. Is the carb adjustable? If not is the choke flapper or air filter dirty or laden with oil restricting air? The reason I ask is that carburetors that get dirty generally cause fuel starvation, a lean condition. If you did not get the machine new, one thing to do is verify you have an OEM Honda carburetor. Folks who don't know what they are doing like to spend $25 on eBay for the china special clone carburetor to get a generator running that has been siting 5 years with bad gas. In the unlikely event this is what it has, I would source a genuine carb then reassess everything going back to the factory recommended plug.
Hey please answer this. Where does the bottom longer fuel long attach to to? The clear one. I can’t find a entrance as to where it connects.
Marcos Toscano if you are talking about the one connected to the bottom of the bowl, it goes out a hole on the bottom/side of the case. It is just used when you open the bowl drain to empty the gas out the carb. It guides the fuel out of the case.
How long is the wait for a Generac generator?
Pretty sure the idling is how they come.
it was set and adjusted by the sticker placement....manufacturing error....
What is the small black clip w a doing that is under the electric part u didn’t remove and how does it go back in
Max Viana assume you are referring to that little plastic piece under the throttle servo? If so I think it provides a little buffer for the servo at full throttle so the servo does not break anything if it turns a little too far. I made a short video for someone else showing that in detail.
ua-cam.com/video/hijQVYIS9t8/v-deo.html
Those screws are probably needing a JIS screw driver. If there is a small dot they will be difficult to remove with a standard phillips. JIS I believe are a Japanese style.
Need to get me ones of those fancy Japanese screw drivers.
Good work, by any chance are U selling any generator, looking for a 8000 watt
Inverters have many more problems then open case regular genes, don't think it's worth it just to be more quiet, don't need 100% clean power, 4% vs 6%, not worth it for me. I have a 7000 watt honda with Italian gene head, works great everything, run it inside a closed garage, (detached from the house) ventilate before filling with gas, blah, blah....works for me
Hi, Ryobi 3400/4000 inverter generator back for an update. I let the generator sit in my unheated garage for 11 hours (overnight). Same problem would not start COLD. Pulled cord several times nothing. This time I decided to spray some carb cleaner into the carb with choke in the open position it did start. Could it be some internal problems with the carb? Too much or too little gas? I'm running out of ideas. 25 degrees today.
That is a common Ryobi inverter generator problem. I think just low compression due to either valves out of spec or an overly aggressive compression release.
@@jcondon1 I read online that Ducar also makes the Predator 212cc engine. I Cannot confirm. But if so, the Predator valve lash is as follows: Intake .004 to .006, exhaust : .006 to .008. Very much in line with your estimate was.
So I have one of these generators I just acquired. The issue with this one is it dont seem to Rev up to speed as it should and it seems like it's over fueling. I did the carb clean and replaced the fuel. The lady that owned it before me only used it two times since she purchased it new. Side note. When it runs the overload light flashes constantly until I take some compressed air and blow into the carb and get the rpms to increase slightly then the overload light stops and the top green light comes on. Also the "eco throttle switch has no effect when running.
Maybe you have an idea is to what's wrong. The oil lever is correct too.
It could be an issue with the inverter board since that controls the throttle position. Would double check that the throttle plate moves and is not stuck. Also could be a bad servo on the carb or a loose wire on the servo control.
@@jcondon1 do you happen to know the specs of the inverter board? ohm readings
@@victorflores3715 sorry I do not
One Of The Best Ways To Remove Permanent Marker Is To Go Over Top Of It With A Dry Erase Marker First, Then Wipe It Off. In Most Cases The So Called Permanent Marker Will Wipe Right Off.
I have this same Generator since 2016 had been working great but now it started giving me problems found your videos looking for a solution. Was working fine yesterday but my generator is actually leaking fuel by air filter housing can't figure out why, since hoses and carb looks just fine with no leaks in those areas. Do you have any suggestion on what to look for?
I would bet fuel is coming from the carb into the air filter.
You might be leaving it on choke too long I found out as soon as it fires up shut the choke off or you'll get gas leaking out of the air box
is there a way to set, adjust the voltage on one of these ryobi 2200 generators. thanks
Inverter generators have no adjustment.
What gauge wire are you using to clean the jet? My ryobi has run great for a long time but now doing what yours is. Looks smaller than a paper clip
I used a bristle from a wire brush.
@@jcondon1 Thanks!
Great fix, any idea how old or how many hours are on the Ryobi, can't argue with one pull, like a Honda or my Predator for that matter
I think it was 3-4 years old. Not sure how many hours.
Dang, how old is this thing? Worth buying new?
James, thank you so much for this video. I contacted Ryobi inquiring about what I could do about a marked decrease in performance/wattage output at higher elevations. Sealevel it will handle the microwave of our trailer, but not at 4,000' elev in the Sierra's. In 2 weeks we are taking the trailer up to Mammoth at 8,000'. They sent me "Kit High Alt Topsun 2000-7000 by Homelite #120968013 which is the carburetor and I guess is specifically set up for altitude. Bottom line, I got as far as you did, to the 2-3 screws holding the module to the carburetor and I can't get the screws to budge, just like you. Any suggestions? Again, thanks for the video. Regards, Bob Carley
One thing to keep in mind is that even with the kit, you will lose 10% of your power every 3000 ft. As far as what to do, I guess that depends on if you want to save the old carburetor. If you want to save it two things come to mind 1) Usually it is only the jetting that is different at altitude. You could try switching the idle jet and main jet from the new carburetor into the existing. Maybe the emulation tube as well to be safe. or 2) try an impact screw driver to break the screws free. www.amazon.com/dp/B07R96M9VW/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_.Oj9Eb6QSHPJ0. Option 2 would require you to hold the carb very tightly in a vice. Not sure how well that would work. Not sure the bit is long enough or thin enough. If you do not care about the old carburetor and just want the parts off of it then would just drill the heads off the screws to free up the bracket and servo motor. Those screws are M4 so the drill bit only needs to be a little bit larger. NOTE: there is a plastic bracket and spring on the throttle plate. Just note how they are installed and that spring can launch across the room. Here is a short video I made for someone about that ua-cam.com/video/hijQVYIS9t8/v-deo.html.
What size engine do they put in that? Can you see who makes it?
Rob H I believe it is a 106cc engine. Did not see the engine tags on it and already sold it. Ryobi uses CHONGQING RATO POWER based in China for their larger generators. Not sure about this one. If you need parts you can order through Ryobi. Hard to find elsewhere.
@@jcondon1 Thanks. Those 2000W generators with only a 79cc engine are not good.
Another thing to remember don’t buy somebody else’s problems
Use a dry eraser and the perm marker comes right off
I did my first maintenance on both my RYi2200's (I run them in parallel) and discovered their spark plugs were't properly gaped from the factory. No wonder they were ended up hard to start over time.
robert gillies would also switch to a NGK plug. Will have less issues in the long run.
The parts in that generator are packed in like organs in a person. It's hard to believe that design could have been established. It's organic.
Inverter generators are hard to work on. A lot like 2 cycle stuff. Everything is just packed in and hard to access.
anyone tell me where i can purchase the low speed idle jet? or at least know the part number
BRICK HAWAII I do not think Ryobi sells carburetor parts only the whole thing. Found that out the hard way when I drilled a low speed jet too big. Figured I would just get a new one for $9. I ended up having to buy a new carburetor.
James my name is Sergio how i can contact you with some questions?
UA-cam comments work the best.
Wd-40 will also take magic marker off
WD works well and generally pretty safe
We have used the ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxOTeIs0vv4_9B5hsmnLsk9r930uDQLu_Y for probably 30 hours with our camper and it’s been great! The noise level is really only noticeable when running the AC and other appliances like the microwave, hair dryer, or coffee pot. It’s not huge like other ones and it has wheels so even at 90lbs, I can move it!