Molasses did THIS to my Engine Block!?!!
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- Опубліковано 24 сер 2024
- This might change things... How do you guys remove rust?
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For me the answer is always distilled/white vinegar.
Got rust? Dunk it in white vinegar.
Limescale and rust in your radiators? Pour in White Vinegar and run it till you're nervous you've left it in too long, then flush out twenty years of tap water and head gasket. Marvel at how hot your heater core is now.
Cut your finger? Dab on White Vinegar. It doesn't do shit, but it stings like a bitch and makes you feel like it might have killed something with it.
Marital problems? Spray them with White Vinegar which then causes a divorce because of your unhealthy obsession with acetic acid. No more marrage so no more problems.
I _KNEW_ there was a mistake in how I ended my marriage.... I only heard the word ACID, so I used concentrated Suplhuric acid (H2SO4) instead of the prescribed Acetic acid (CH3COOH). I should get out in about 5 more years (which, I might add, is still quite a good deal).
Its like one of natures ultimate problem solver. If you ever wanta find yourself in a pickle, white vinegar can make that happen!
I thought we are the only one who uses white vinegar for wounds!
Suffering from COVID-19 or similar? White vinegar. Dab a little behind the ears, do a few circles... bam.
Want your food to taste better? vinegar.
Chips? Vinegar
Tomato sauce? Vinegar.
Making eggs? Fuckin vinegar in the boiling water.
Molasses and water will definitely remove rust from ferrous metals. It will also dissolve non-ferrous metals. If the metals that were pitted were alloyed with something other than iron and carbon you will at the very least pit them. It would be interesting to find out the metallurgy of the pieces that became pitted after the treatment. Thank you.
Normally cast iron is alloyed with nickle to add strength and ductility.
That cast iron has copper in it
I tried this trick but won't again. Pontiac engine block, was siezed, process work well enough for engine to be saved. Second go on a toyota flywheel turned out exactly like that brake disc, was able to dig into the surface like it was clay.
I had been taught some years ago to use 1 part molasses w/9 parts water. I always mixed mine @ 1 part molasses 5 parts water. First time I tried it, I cut of two rings of 2-1/2" black pipe that had been percolating outdoors for a couple of years so it was plenty rusty. Soaked the two rings in my molasses mixture for about a month and they came out a lovely gray color with the only pitting being that caused by the rust. In subsequent uses, I limited the soak time to about two weeks and have had excellent results. The only drawback is that molasses is EXPENSIVE, at least here in the South.
just run the brakes, they'll self level
I'm wondering if the molasses actually pitted the metal that much, or if that's just how deep the rust ran once you truly got all the oxide off.
Automatic transmission fluid is the best rust remover, we tanked old fluid at our shop and left parts in for a week then pulled them out shinny new! Try it! Also trans fluid is the best cutting fluid as well! Just a few tips from a NC country boy that's been fabricating for a minute.
Thanks for the tip. I use pinesol to clean carbs, it works great. ua-cam.com/video/wFmlif1SXpc/v-deo.html
Used old (used) transmission fluid on loosing rusted nuts and bolts, good stuff.
After watching a few episodes, including the one where you soaked the engine block in the “soup” I took the 400 block from the 67 GTO I’m working on and did the same thing, in fact I put the heads and exhaust manifolds in the same barrel. (It was fun getting them out and I had to shower with a wire brush to ge the stink off) To the point, I didn’t have any pitting on any of those parts, in fact they turned out pretty good. I had already decided to have the block bored because half the engine was seized due to rust, this gave me a better block to work with. I will add that the flange for the crankshaft where the crank pulley and balancer bolts to did come out extremely pitted and acted much like lead when I tried to clean it up. Thanks for helping me bring back my Goat by sharing your progress.
Electrolysis tanks work great also. Plastic 55 gallon drums work great as tank. Tested it out on a smaller scale in a 5 gallon napa bucket, completely removed rust from some old wrenches laying around. Lots of write ups and videos online
That's awesome! I had no clue that molasses could do that. Thanks for the vid.
Don't you have a whiny welder to appease
it's not the molasses, its the yeast! (bacteria) that loves molases
yeast is fungus not bacteria
Stephen Cox love your videos keep up the good work
so can coke a cola.
Iron vs. Steel? It seems the cast iron parts (high carbon content. 2-4% ) pit and the steel (less than 2%) carbon didn’t
Maybe even Nickel
Molasses contains chelating agents, imagine chemical claws that pull the metal apart. I imagine the alloys in steel leads to something like passivizing. Molasses works on cookware & OLD car parts because they're saturated with oil.
@Mr T Why are the uneducated often critical of the educated? You seem bothered by your stupidity to the point you lash out for no reason---you and a couple of admirers so far.
Cast is more porous than sheetmetal etc, so if rust or oils penetrate cast, then the effect of the molasses can end up being erratic. If worried about head gasket surfaces and bores, first coat them with grease and that area can't be affected.
Had the same issue with vinegar. Left some iron parts in a bath of it for a week and when I took them out, I could cut through the parts with a screw driver! Lesson learned. I'll stick with electrolysis.
yup same left in there two weeks looked in...no parts..bottom layer of sludge/ parts
You can also use a solution of Phosphoric acid and water. I usually use a 5~10% solution.It leaves a phospate coating on the surface.Good for stripping zinc coatings...works very quickly. Don't leave in the solution for very long as it will continue to chomp away on the parent material.
A side-by-side comparison of molasses and electrolysis would be interesting.
You're probably looking at the molasses dissolving the iron carbides in the cast parts. If it was pulling carbon or alloying metals out then it would be attacking the steel parts just as viciously. The difference is that cast iron has a wee bit more carbon and is cooled slowly enough to make carbides... cementite. If that's true, then white cast iron is much more susceptible than grey iron is... and a big piece like a block might actually have been rapidly cooled on the outer surface which causes cementite/white cast iron formation, because it's much more wear resistant. BUT... that's carbide.
If you feel like testing it, I'm sure you can find a dirt-cheap Chinese grey iron block of something, maybe compare with a high and low carbon steel sample. They're all managed differently with regard to cooling and make different complexes, but the carbides in the cementite are going to be most prone to dissolving.
I use muritic acid (cement etching acid) do derust all my stuff, bolts, motorcycle tanks, car parts everything.
Works pretty good on corroded electrical terminals , say in a connector.
Use a q-tip with some on it and then one with water to wash it off.
I’ve used molasses on old Ford 223 and Y-block engines to clean out the water jackets. The 223 was something like 4 days and it didn’t pit the deck or bores. The 292 was pretty well worn and spent longer in the barrel but I don’t remember seeing pitting. The machinist was impressed with how clean the engine was.
Edit: I mixed molasses with water. I didn’t hear if you used straight molasses or if you mixed it with water.
Yes, it was mixed 1:10
So that's 1 part molasses to 10 of water or the other way around
1 part molasses 10 parts water
If you are removing rust from a sandable surface such as a body panel you can use naval jelly to convert the rust to a black primer, then sand and paint.
Rust + Molasses = Sweet Metal 🎸
I bought some evaporust from princess auto .... works really good and non toxic
Molasses has to be 50gl to 1gl And don't leave in too long..dont remove any rust or scale leave it all on the piece. Many times the rust will convert back to steel.
Old farmer told me this 30 years ago. I did it the way he told me and never left anything in too long. Or used too much molasses. If you put say 1 gl molasses in 10gl of water for solid cast pieces take it the next day. Overnight is usually enough. I havnt done modern alloys or modern steel. Only old 1800 /1900 tractor. Truck or Machine parts. Less is best till you work with a few types and time periods. But don't go weeks of soaking ! Days at most..cheers.
"The Works" toilet bowl cleaner works WONDERS for smaller metal parts. Takes the rust right off after soaking for a while
i use the electrolysis as shown by keith rucker and others, usually using carbon rods as the sacrificial electrode, hook up a battery charger and sit in a solution of washing soda, works a treeat and replaces a layer of rust
Less deck equals more compression... WINNING !
We use purple power. Just a 55 gallon barrel with straight non diluted purple power. Blocks come out looking brand new. They do need a pressure wash after but a week or 2 and they're golden. And you can reuse it for quite a long time. I'm wanting to try the electrolysis method of rust removal. I'll let you know how it does once I get it built and working.
you sound well versed in the roadside spread and handcuff's :)))
Caustic soda and a hotwater heater element in a 50 gal drum for cast iron. or steel (no aluminum or potmetal ) it comes in powder form I used in my shop for years
and its the best way ive found to clean blocks and heads, I'm 73 and it worksgreat no metal loss takes off grease, pain, rust
When I took auto shop in high school they had a "hot tank" and it used lye. You guys are using acids. Bases are better if you're removing rust and baked n gunk without attacking the base iron/steel.
I’ve tried electrolysis, citric acid, molasses, vinegar, & probably some others. I did find for the most part that cast iron left in for a longer time seemed to suffer/degrade in its integrity. Not that I know, but have heard it referred to hydrogen embrittlement. I think that could explain the block & the rotors (aren’t they cast iron too?). I don’t think steel is affected nearly to the same degree. I’m not a professional-don’t trust me, just sayin....(doesn’t mean I’m wrong). I think the benefit of molasses is the economy of scale. I wonder if multiple short soak times coupled with power washing would yield a better surface? Just a thought.
Lots of folks mentioning wD40 but it doesnt keep rust off bare metal very well. Dwn south with our humidity it is worthless. Oil on a rag is a sure bet. And be careful on cylinders, i always heard only use the oil you plan to run on 2 stroke cyl. Especially. Lots of stuff can soak in and screw up your break in of the rings.
Could it be that the molasses can damage the surface of cast iron, but does not affect the steel surfaces ?
I've had great success using it on Ford blocks without pitting. I use the feed grade molasses sold by TSC and cut it with 50% water. Don't just put parts in and forget it. Check the parts every three to four days. You just want to be able to remove the rust with a steel wire brush. I had heard however, that vinegar will ultimately eat away cast iron if left immersed too long.
Oxalic acid is a good alternative. Overnight or a bit longer for heavy rust. It's very safe too.
Great when restoring cars and don't want to compromise the item by grinding. Great tip
How did you catch that many moles? 😁
Where? Come check my lawn, probably fill that drum twice over! How? Nash Choker Loops and Easy Set Eliminators.
Wonder what he did with the other parts of them?!?
@@bvcxzgt5451 Moleskin is good for blisters
On car parts I've used muriatic acid to remove rust within a few minutes. It can be purchased at any pool/sauna supply store. For cast iron cookware, I use vinegar for much slower results.
Look up rust electrolysis on youtube much easier faster and less damage. Best to spray wd40 right after you dry them.
ibidu1 I've tried that and vinegar before. both work well to remove the rust but vinegar is a lot more messy to deal with and smells a lot worse.
Yup ive tried vinegar aswell but vinegar is not as fast as electrolysis. Plus electroylysis you can see the rust form on the metal rod adds to the cool factor
yes and id you forget the part it will eat up good steel. electrolysis only attacks rust.
Make sure you do electrolysis in a plastic container though. No fun coming out to the oil drum to find it sitting in a puddle of water cause the drum was rusty.
Molasses WILL etch cast metal parts!!! It's best to use it on really bad rusted up parts to break them free but done do any surfaces that need a smooth finish. Use electrolysis instead.
“Trust me I’m a professional” then pulls the block out of molasses
I wouldn’t have even thought to put it in molasses. That’s pretty crazy.
The pitting is caused by whats called Hydrogen enbrittlement. The molasses ferments and makes acid that then eats the oxide and forms hydrogen which then is absorbed by the bronze in cast iron and hardened steel causeing it to decompose. Mild steel is ok as it dose not have a high bronze content. I just use plain white vinegar for no more than 4hrs then soak in bicarbonate soda and water as it is a neutral and therefor will neutralize the acid.
Electrolysis. Works great! Do not mix up the plus and minus.
Its rustier than ever before!
Very interesting. I'm going to try an experiment using a molasses and vinegar mixture as a natural (i.e. non-chemical) drain cleaner. That's how I came across your video.
Basically I need a natural liquid that is viscous and will mix with vinegar without chemically reacting with it. I figure molasses will do the job.
I wonder why the molasses attacked the cast steel auto parts you were using it with. I'm not a chemist, but my guess is that it acted as a catalyst to accelerate oxidation of the iron in the steel with oxygen dissolved in the water.
Cast iron is porous and likely has may voids, impurities, and unknown alloys. Molasses will undermine the surface if left long enough and create pitting as you found out. Try covering the parts you don't want eaten away with grease or such. Pressure wash and clean for inspection weekly. Also, your submersion tank is better off being something inert to the process like plastic.
I've made a easy electrolosis tank at home. Rebar in the corners, part hanging on a hanger. Super easy, super fast and doesn't touch steel. It will remove almost all finishes though.
Well I'll be... I've never heard of using molasses. My old man used to put bread (the more the better I think) in a 44 gallon drum (Aussie) full of water which did similar to anything rusty. It was a very slow process from memory.... a few years back. Anything die cast would dissolve. We'd wash old chev panels with water and brush to bare metal. Had to spray with a rust inhibitor to stop it rusting before your eyes. If only we had Lanogard back in those days. I cannot remember doing anything made of cast iron.... at least I now know not too. if I get a chance with an old Massey or truck. Have eyes on one a few miles out.. The smell of rotting bread is like the smell of 2.75"..
thats interesting to see happen. I have never tried molasses yet but wanted too. I use white vinegar on allot of the smaller rusty parts that i come across, not sure about pitting as most parts are rough cast that i clean
I would love to see a Molasses vs Vinegar comparison! Interesting what it did to the cast material and not the stamped steel.
Build a bubble tank . 44 gallon drum water with copper coil full of holes onto compressor . Put your block in it after the Molasses .
If the rust already ate through the metal molasses wouldn't help. I don't think the damage is from the molasses it's from the rust.
Vinegar works great on cast and it doesn't take weeks, just have to hit it with WD40 after you wash the vinegar off, or it will flash rust.
lye and water in a covered tank for one week just like u would do for cast iron pots I did this at my engine shop for yrs just hose off and spay some water and viguar and rinse again with water and dry and put some oil spray on and all done or dry and paint right away papadoc's engine shop
Brakes and engine blocks are made of cast iron. You can use molasses, but keep a watchful eye on your product. Molasses works much better on steel.
I use lye. They also make half refrigerator sized soap and water pressure wash cabinets that make the iron look like new. If you are doing that much work, you might want to invest in one. Really that pitted deck probably wouldn't have been a problem with a 0.040 thick composition gasket, copper or steel would be a different story.
While not environmentally friendly, I've used Drano crystals and water heated in a steel drum to clean large locomotive engine components and air brake pipe brakets with really good results, down to bare clean metal with no weird pitting. Don't breathe the fumes. Rinse the parts and you're ready for paint.
If you do auto seat frames, don't leave them in very long. I did & ended up with frames & no springs, just disappeared!
I use white vinegar for basid de-rusting. Cheap and plentiful.
I been using Citric acid it works really good ...i have car bonnet in a old cattle trough with 6 hands fulls of citric acid so far so good ...
Electrolysis has always worked good for me, degrease it first...then 48 hours in the tank, then pressure wash.
Nah, Evapo-Rust is damn near a magical product. Safe, reusable, no tacky residue, works quickly and evenly.
I use vinegar and only about 24 hours per soak. It is reusable too.
i would suggest evap-o-rust
shit is amazeballs
dunked a 1940's tablesaw that had been left out for god knows how long, every surface was rust
pulled it out of the evap-o-rust after 2-3 days, all rust gone AND LEFT THE ORIGINAL PAINT
i was blown away
This is the most Canadian thing I’ve seen in a long time.
I usually use vinegar but don’t leave it the bath for too long.
When I was a kid, my mom told me I had a Cast Iron Stomach - because I eat anything.
Now I won't eat Molasses, because I've probably got a rusty tummy after all these years.
Are you going to set up a lemonade stand with that juice? Looks delicious!
I have used it on steel not cast iron and not had any issue at all. Cast Iron is dubious at best. Now if it were cast steel or had a high nickle content like AMC blocks prob. would have been fine. Also I have never left steel parts in longer than 2 weeks.
Of course it works.... I have tried many other substances... Many seem to work. However, what is the ratio for Molasses? 1 part water... 5 parts molasses as one author claims? What ratio did you use.?????????
Molasses? I thought Canadians only used maple syrup!
Only when we est p...ss...y
Just plain white vinegar it has 5% acidity, and dirt cheap and environmentally safe.
Last thing I used it on was dash parts from an old Bronco, the steel came out lookin BRAND NEW. and definitely no pitting with the stuff with surface rust...if it has thick crusty rust you will have pitting but thats cause the rust already did it and the vinegar ate the rust away exposing what damage was there.
you decked & honed the block but have you checked the bearing tunnels.
use electrolysis on one of your engine block and it well take vall the rust off with out pitting
My father used to do this when I was younger I thought he was crazy but it worked lol
Anything cast is a no go in a molasses tank. Gotta use evaporust for that.
If I had to guess, I'd say the molasses ferments and becomes acidic? That's what cleans the rust
So, Where does one go about getting 55 gallons worth of molasses anyway? This is cool stuff man, Never heard of it until you mentioned it in a previous video. I've had a few projects where that would have come in very handy! Thanks for the vid!
Hamilton Mechanical Farm feed stores
i use white vinegar, it seems to work on most rusty stuff i dunk in it, a week or two here and there
Phosphoric acid works to remove rust in about a half hour and does not harm steel. You can get it where they sell concrete etch cleaner. Spray it on let it sit a while and wash with the pressure washer. Phosphoric acid is what's in coke that makes it remove rust but in a far more concentrated form
damn molasses works
What block was it? Some GM engines are high nickel alloy, but most are not. So, it would be interesting to see what alloy your parts are.
My friends have been using muriatic acid to clean very rusty '61 Willys parts. It even un-seized a rusty hood hinge. Not sure how it would do with a block or brakes, though.
Muriatic acid is corrosive and will harm or weaken the good metal too though.
I know the molasses and water react to what ever rust is Fe3 I think? It turns into a mild acid. So when you are cleaning with molasses you are still acid cleaning but the acid is being chemically produced from the solvent interacting with the rust. So with steel it is self limiting kind of when the rust is done the process should stop assuming you do not have all kinds of impurities. Cast Iron I have no clue. Comes to think of it I used it once at my local airport to clean a cast iron small block Chevy manifold but only left it in a week and had no pitting. That was so long ago I had forgotten about it. Might be interesting to see you test some trash cast iron pieces and see if they always pit or if it was a time situation?
Phosphroc acid in a spray bottle, 50/50 with water, few drops of washing up liquid, works a treat..
I put an old 2 stroke water cool barrel in the molasis and left it a long time and the iron bore had completely disolved and 99% of the aluminium barrel was in tact
Maybe market it as "organic non GMO cleaner. In Gov we used citrus based CRC from lemons. No cfc s . It worked good!
Carbon in cast may be dissolved causing pitting.
I use vinegar on cast iron pans I get that need restoring. Gotta watch it though once it's done with the rust it attacks the pan.
We had an old Morton building that was terribly rusted and we wanted to take it down, well we saved a lot of time by painting it with molasses,3 months later it was gone, it dissolved and blew away on night. 🤔🥓
Allot of old blocks contained allot of nickle in the iron, probably why the old ones come out better.
Try electrolysis the metal will not pit. Water and baking soda. I can't remember the ratio. Than cathode and anode. The metal part is the cathode I think?
I've used it before, bit hit and miss with the cleaning, and takes to long for me. But certainly far more gentle than acid or even vinegar.
I used this trick on a cast iron woodstove.
Pitted the cylinder walls!!!!!! That's not pitting, it is the new style of cross hatches😋
Molasses eats cast iron, works great on steel. Do vinegar on cast.
Hot tank my stuff, never had a problem.
Try powdered citric acid. One tea spoon for every litre of water
Pretty sure the alcohol from the fermenting molasses is eating away at the nickle, copper, and aluminum in any of the damaged alloys you noted.
Molasses is great on fresh rolls.
It's good in grits too.
Interesting. How long is it recommend to leave the steel in for? I may try this lol. Great vids by the way! Keep up the good work
hot tank is hard to find since it is so toxic. Many NAPA shops got rid of tanks. This is cool. Make candy out of it when done..lol
I found that the secret with molasses is to not leave your item in there too long. After a while, the molasses goes too far & starts eating the metal.
Just keep checking until you have achieved the result you are after.
Could always do electrolysis with a battery charger some rebar and a 45 gallon drum of lye