When it comes to engine breaking, I've made the experience that I want to lower it instead of increasing. You recover much more ERS in Rain, and in my experiences, I reach the recharge cap halfway through the lap. So I reduce engine breaking and allow the car to roll more through the corners, saving on fuel in the progress and being able to start a bit more lighter at the start of the race because of it
maximum psi = less tire degradation, less grip, more speed on the straights; In the rain or qualifying, it is not good to use the PSI at maximum, but in the race, yes. @@CallMeUncle534
The camber call is complete BS. I can’t get any sorts of traction with the camber settings set that way. No matter the track, adjusting tire temps, toe, downforce etc. you HAVE to run like 1-2 degrees of rear camber and 2.5 front to do anything. Get traction for coming out the turn as well as Initial turn in. Atleast this is how it is for me and my Fanatec CSL DD on Series X.
Sorry but have to completely disagree with you on the front toe setting. I run 100% races, which means tire wear means everything. And you want a "Pointy front end" but enough to give good turn, however the more you lower the front and rear toe the more tire wear due to slip friction. So there is a point for each track which is the best given the upgrades on the car and driving style that will give best tire wear. And it's certainly not "All the way to the left" Camber usually is all the way to the left however there are a few tracks that this isn't the case, I.E. Monza, Vegas (The new King of Speed) and Singapore pop to mind. You need far more flat grip on these tracks so taking the camber down a few clicks is actually faster and gives better tire life. Also people need to keep in mind that Engine braking DOES cause rear tire Heat, and Wear. So find a setting in practice that gives good recovery but not overkill. Lastly your suspension settings are all wrong for any kind of meaningful long distance race. 41/21 and 9/9 like you have takes a set of Mediums that should last say 28-30 laps and turns the rears and front outside tire to garbage by lap 18. Depending on the track take Silverstone for example front 28/16 and rear 24/14. There are only two low speed exits at this track. This will provide good exit traction, as well as the biggest key to tire life. Keep the surface of the tire from overheating in the medium and high speed turns. Both front and rears. You'll see a massive increase in rear tire life as well as your left front not wearing as badly as a 41/21 setup.
When it comes to engine breaking, I've made the experience that I want to lower it instead of increasing. You recover much more ERS in Rain, and in my experiences, I reach the recharge cap halfway through the lap. So I reduce engine breaking and allow the car to roll more through the corners, saving on fuel in the progress and being able to start a bit more lighter at the start of the race because of it
How much lower do you put? How many %
@Frozalante usually 20 lower than with the dry setup
Nice, love your videos, straight to point
Please make a complete setup per circuit like you did with dry setups
I realy love your setups
had a wet league race yesterday lol, had to try and fumble around to make a dry setup wet but had no clue what to do
So useful! So thankful ❤ thanks my good friend
please F1 24 Best Car Setup For Every Circuit (Race Setups) rain like it was in the one hour video which was very good 😄
Are you planning on making a setup guide video for each wet track?
im curious on what to do for a wet quali with dry race?
Fantastic content
What if you have a half and half race? Half dry half wet, what do you prioritise.
You’ll need higher ride height to avoid aquaplaning. You can change your front wing during a pit stop so try and create a compromise of the two
Will there be adjustments to tyre pressures after the next patch
We’ll have to see
What about if it’s a wet quali dry race? What’s the beta compromise with limited changes then
@@jackclark5118 depending on the track id just go with a dry setup, if its a track like monaco though id probably go for an intermediate setup
What happens when rain comes after parc ferme rules?
Just like real life, you deal with it. Haha
On any circuit?
If the car setup tires are set to maximum psi, does that mean I can’t really use it in an actual race?
Basically what I’m saying is can I copy a time trial set up and just lower the psi?
maximum psi = less tire degradation, less grip, more speed on the straights;
In the rain or qualifying, it is not good to use the PSI at maximum, but in the race, yes.
@@CallMeUncle534
The camber call is complete BS. I can’t get any sorts of traction with the camber settings set that way. No matter the track, adjusting tire temps, toe, downforce etc. you HAVE to run like 1-2 degrees of rear camber and 2.5 front to do anything. Get traction for coming out the turn as well as Initial turn in. Atleast this is how it is for me and my Fanatec CSL DD on Series X.
Sorry but have to completely disagree with you on the front toe setting. I run 100% races, which means tire wear means everything. And you want a "Pointy front end" but enough to give good turn, however the more you lower the front and rear toe the more tire wear due to slip friction. So there is a point for each track which is the best given the upgrades on the car and driving style that will give best tire wear. And it's certainly not "All the way to the left" Camber usually is all the way to the left however there are a few tracks that this isn't the case, I.E. Monza, Vegas (The new King of Speed) and Singapore pop to mind. You need far more flat grip on these tracks so taking the camber down a few clicks is actually faster and gives better tire life. Also people need to keep in mind that Engine braking DOES cause rear tire Heat, and Wear. So find a setting in practice that gives good recovery but not overkill. Lastly your suspension settings are all wrong for any kind of meaningful long distance race. 41/21 and 9/9 like you have takes a set of Mediums that should last say 28-30 laps and turns the rears and front outside tire to garbage by lap 18. Depending on the track take Silverstone for example front 28/16 and rear 24/14. There are only two low speed exits at this track. This will provide good exit traction, as well as the biggest key to tire life. Keep the surface of the tire from overheating in the medium and high speed turns. Both front and rears. You'll see a massive increase in rear tire life as well as your left front not wearing as badly as a 41/21 setup.