Do any of you guys ever think to show the entire assembly Before all the close-ups? UA-cam needs an option to play stuff like this backwards. Besides, it's not safe. Or legal. How many weeks did it last?
nice job, I designed the same tilt over mast but used 4 X 4's (2) 12 foot in the ground and the center pivot is 20 feet, same as you, 3 feet into the ground, and 4 feet nested between the 2 base 4 X 4's, crank is on a lynch post (9 ft. + 16 ft. = 25 feet) then electrical kindorf (U channel) bolt mounts a piece of chain link fence top rail (10.5 ft.) to the top of the pivot 4 X 4 mast adding 6.5 feet for a total of 31.5 feet to the base of the antenna Keep up the good work Rekindling The Reformation !!
Recently code has changed. They found not enough oxygen is underneath to support the rust theory. Rebar can now be ran into the ground on house footings .
The crank winch has a locking mechanism that could be padlocked if necessary. I never have the antenna up for long as I only use it when I DX. I only crank the antenna up when I DX.
For additional safety, I would put another 1/2" bolt/wing nut near the bottom or middle to secure the mast for accidently falling, using the crank to secure the mast is asking for trouble!!!!
Hi Ben, Thanks for the concern. The winch has a locking mechanism and the ability to actually put a lock or bolt to secure it (when up or down) as well - so there is no worry of it failing. The cable is 1/4" steel cable and has several thousand pounds breaking strength and about 1400 lbs working strength. For my uses it very safe as I only use it in good weather...I think it is more than sufficient for how I use it.
I totally agree with you, Ben. The time and cost to do that is minimal and the added safety priceless. The cable is already rusting and there is no way I would risk my safety or the safety of loved ones on just that cable. Good luck though! I love the idea!
Nice, simplistic idea that could work well with a sleeved Spiderbeam or DX Commander setup for those of us with strict HOA's that we unfortunately have to deal with... thanks for taking the time to make the post! 73
Most HOA's allow for the installation of a flagpole in the front yard. I always thought if I lived in a neighborhood that had a lot of restrictions I would put up that largest flagpole they would allow...flagpole insulated from the base of course then set the length to the frequency range I dx the most of course. Utilize a matching transformer if needed. ;'D
That is a very neat antenna mast design and you have done a brilliant job describing it. Thanks for posting it. Have you made any modifications to it since the video was first published in 2015 ? Thanks, Jamie VK2YCJ
No I have not made any further mods - other than adjusting the U-bolts as others have recommended. It is currently the same as in the video. Everything seems to be holding up well to the weather and time.
I am really, really liking these ideas. It has me really thinking of doing something like this. Especially since my HOA has started coming down on me for having a small temp 2m mast in my front yard and already stomped on me for my g5rv HF antenna. I have an area on the side of my house much like you do. So i'm thinking of this x2. Thx so much!
Have you seen my "Stealthy tilt-over mast hidden by chimney" video? I built it for my VHF/UHF antennas ad it hides them fairly well. m.ua-cam.com/video/jS-reVGR_2s/v-deo.html
Thank you!!! Watched a lot of videos on this and yours is the best idea I've seen yet!!! I will be building this as soon as the weather breaks!!!! Thanks again!!
first use SS aircraft grade wire rope. second build a cover for the winch. third rebuild the winch with a screw drive system this way the weight on the winch drum will not go wiled with the handle. a worm can drive a gear, but a gear can not drive a worm. were you are attaching the wire rope to the tower pole just us a loop bolt. no need for those two clamps. and get the pole end of the wire set up right in a pressure clamp . just looks cleaner than those grip nut/bolts.
Just a heads up on the use of the cable clamps. The little "U" shaped clamps. I'm a retired crane operator after 50 years in the field. Did a lot of changing of cables through the years. Here's a little saying to help you remember which way the clamps face when you put them on the cable. "You never saddle a dead horse." So the little short end of cable sticking out past the clamps is the dead end. You don't put the saddle on that cable. Spin it around so the saddle sits on the long cable, "The live end" Also you only need one cable clamp. Because each clamp you put on the cable reduces the strength of the cable by 50%. All of this information is located in a book of cable rigging standards.
Thanks for the comment. You are the second person to mention that in the last month but gave a more detailed explanation. I will go fix that when I get the chance. When I put this mast up about 9 years ago it was the first time I ever did anything with steel cable. I definitely want it to be as safe as possible. Cheers.
I recently saw this video and liked the idea a lot. I decided to go ahead with putting my own crank-up mast in place. So last week the hole was dug. 1 meter long by 3/4 meter wide by 1 meter deep. Each pole is 3 meters long and 50mm wide so 10 feet long by 2 inches wide by 1/8 wall thickness. Today I put in a cavity concrete block and got some rebar and 5 other 1 meter lengths of various galvanised 26 mm steel bars, wired them all together with galvanised fence wire. Lined the hole with stones of various sizes and put sixteen bags of concrete mix on top of all that. Today is Wednesday 14/04/21 and by Sunday coming, the 18/04/21 the concrete should be well dry and time then to put the rest of it together. I hope to be able to raise the mast to about 35 feet or so. I put a latch bar on so when it is raised it goes across the back of the mast to hold it in place, put there as a little extra safety precaution, no harm it being there. I enjoyed the project but doing it is hard work. Mine is up a hill so everything had to be carried by hand. Thanks for sharing your idea and I'll give an update on the rest of the project at a later date.
Learn how to use those wire clamps properly. Be careful to use a high grade bolt as the hinge pin... come cheap bolts are very soft and not safe in shear like this. Paying a little extra for a worm drive winch.. will pay benefits in retained teeth.
Thank you very much for sharing this video. This is what I had in mind for my future vertical antenna but I wasn't sure how to go about putting it together. Amazing job! Where did you buy the crank mechanism? Make / model. Thanks again!
At my local Ace Hardware store. They have a lot of stuff you don't always see at the big box places. Here is a link to I think the same crank/winch I am using in the video: www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=17209176 I also added winch info to the video description up above.
Awesome stealthy. I think I'd use the stab in plant holders to stay at the mast supporting points so it lowers right into the hoop and lifts right out from the level supported point.
Thanks for posting this video. I live on the NC Coast. Lowes guided me to the fence post as antenna tower, but Hurricane Florence laughed at that 3 10' section of fence post, pretty much tying them into pretzels. So I regrouped and now I'm using thicker gauge steel electrical conduit and only 20 feet due to the weight, which is where your winch idea comes in!
I got my winch to lift a 35 ft of heavier gauge of telescoping fence posts starting with the 3" at the bottom. So it is plenty strong to lift what I have now. I over built it.
I know this is an old video but my internet company wants to charge me $5000 dollars to install a 50ft tower to hold their miniature receiver So I can receive their signal. Would it be possible to make this rigid for 50ft ?? Their equipment is like a miniature satellite dish. I’m sure I wouldn’t want any sway so I was wondering if thick gage pipe would stay rigid at that height ? .
I don't think they would allow that to be used for such an installation. Anything they would put up is on their liability for safety and site needs and w would have tp be to their specifications. They would definitely no want something to sway. Also, if this were a 50ft tall permanent construction you would have to have guy wires (or a much thicker mast with no guy wires.).
A brake-winch is a better idea than a ratchet winch. Have to protect them from the weather a bit more, but your thumb will thank you one day. Good vid, TY.
It works great when it is up. When it is in the down position it still works but the signal levels go way down and the noise goes up. The whole setup is still in great condition even though it has been installed for nearly 15 years in that spot.
I no longer have the mast as 35 feet of all steel pipe but I did describe it below under Gear Hammer's question. The base and winch are adequately strong to use steel pipe as I used to have it. Was that what you were asking?
Thanks for a great video. I subscribed and watched the whole video. I'm a new ham and am running long wire for HF. I want a tower system for 2 meter. This looks good.
WOULD YOU PLEASE MAKE A HOW TO BUILD ONE OF THESE USING TEE-YINY BABY STEPS FOR DUMMIES LIKE ME? PRETTY PLEASE. I need my Ambient Weather station WS-1001 WIFI unit up but understand hows to does it. HELP HELP anyone reading this, help help
Hey brother. I know this video is almost 7 years old. Im a ham radio tech but also a helium miner. Im in a sweet location but surrounded by trees and buildings. My antenna even at almost 30 feet up is performing poorly. This design is intriguing.... I've watched this video several times and am strongly considering giving it a try. But I want more height , approx 75 to 100 feet. I noticed you used fiberglass for the parts of the design beyond half way up and the reduction in weight makes sense. So I guess Im asking in your opinion could a mast built based on your design be upscaled to a possible 100 feet? If not please tell me why and if so, please explain what Im in for. And if you have any interest in helium mining I would be glad to trade out my expertise for yours. For some context many Hams are also helium mining because there are so many parallels between the two.
I would think everything would have to be scaled up considerably to go as high as 75-100 ft. You would certainly want guy wires of some sort if it is permanent the force from wind and sheer weight of the structure increase significantly. You would quite a bit more concrete for the pier as well to support the setup. Maybe you could hing the mast in the middle to make it easier to store when not deployed.
I never have the antenna up when I am not DX'ing. But I put a padlock on the winch when I am not using it so that it cannot be cranked up. Definitely a good safety tip.
The small winch is pretty much the same as one for a boat. It makes it really easy to raise the mast and locks in place. The exact winch I am using in in my video description above and has a link to it.
Consider it took about 9-10 bags of cement and the original mast was telescoping fence posts about 35 ft tall. I built this over 10 years ago as well. I want to say the fence posts cost me $250-300 USD, the cement was less then $100 and the winch is $30-40. So less than $500. If I were to rebuild it today as configured with the fiberglass mast and much less fence post it would not have to be so sturdy. I would say today it would be less than $400 in its current configuration - antennas/transformers not included. But I built all that myself too.
Can you send me the link where I could buy this that’s an excellent job you did I give you six stars I have a pipe that’s next to a pipe and 24 inch pipe plus Antenna 99 I see how you did yours can you tell me the best way to do it I’m in the middle of losing my legs I wanted to get this done before they take him one day congratulation
I like your set up I’m thinking of doing like you have Antron 99 I want to know if you can send me the link how do you made it all the detail I have no legs but I’m gonna have somebody do it for me and will you buy the wheel to crank it up and where it supposed to be safe that you don’t have to be tied down I think it’s 10 or 20 whatever and how I tied down to the bottom the whole detail Appreciate it my friend when you get a chance thank you
Getting ready to build this same setup. Ive had a 2-7/8" sch. 40 galvanized mast 24' for about 6 months now. Im adding a 2-3/8" light gauge galvanized, which will slip into the larger piece, and extending the mast. The piece Im adding is 16' and will slip into the sch 40 galvanized 8'. So the mast height will be 32', plus the 6' 2m antenna atop that. The HF antenna is an inverted L and will go up to 25' and then horizontal. Since Ive got to drop the mast to add on, Im going to go ahead and copy this setup. Will make things much easier later
It makes working at the antennas on top a breeze. Just make sure you leave enough cable at the pivot point to flex and bend as you put it up or crank it down.
Thank You for sharing your construction ideas! I have a place way out in the country (no cable tv, etc.), and need to erect an antenna tower for an antenna.
It is for AM BCB and LW BCB DX only. But you can put whatever length of mast on you want. I used have just the mast part of it 35ft before any antenna.
Mu dad made the same concept but we used 4 inch steel pipe for the base . Dad had threaded the ends so went from 10 foot 4 inch to 3 inch 10 foot 2 inch so on to reach 40 foot.We didn't think of the wench.Great design for those who like to play!
Have you had the antenna extended during any significant winds? I'm not talking about hurricane or cyclone strength, but say 25 - 35mph? If so how does it handle? Asking because of how flexible it is, any concerns about it maybe snapping? Like the concept, something like this might work well for my home, darn HOA. Thanks.
Jim K Hi Jim, If you look at my Low Noise Vertical MW BCB DX'ing Antennas video you can see this same antenna behaving in about 15 mph wind gusts. ua-cam.com/video/hSwkM9aaGNU/v-deo.html. I don't know if I would keep it up in much more than 15-20 mph gusting winds but it can take some winds as long as there is only a wire antenna supported by the mast as I have it. I used to have a much heavier and larger surface antenna on top and would not put it up with winds much over 10 mph. But as I currently have it in the video, I would say you could go to at least 15 mph w/o much worry. Of course if you rig some quick deploying guy wires it should be able to take more. As you can see by the flexing as I crank it up it in this video can bend quite a bit.
I don't guy it on the rare occasion it is up more than a day. It is very flexible fiberglass and I don't DX if winds are over 15-20 sustained. If you look at my Low-noise Vertical Antenna video you can see it flexing in some 15 mph ish winds in the last two minutes or so. It can flex a lot more than in that video.
One of your saddle clamps is in on the wrong way round...the best way to remember how they go on is the old saying, "Never saddle a dead horse." So the "U" bolt goes over the dead end, short part of the cable and the saddle goes over the live or long section of cable. And like the other fella said, you need a way to secure the moving mast near the bottom, relying on the boat winch is asking for a trip to the hospital. But well done, quite clever. I did something similar a few years ago with 4x4, 2x4 and a 12vdc ATV winch.
looks like a breeze rider we get 50- 60 mile per hour storms here bet its really steady then maybe you're trying to to get broadband the mast head should be in a broadband to say the least
It is used as a broadband antenna and has a matching transformer for MW that works a little bit for LW as well. Although it can stand a good bit of wind I rarely use it when winds are over about 10 mph.
Nice job! Quick question: What about using some 1 inch EMT conduit that is coupled together instead of the fiberglass tubing? I know it would be a bit heavier, but that winch you have seems heavy duty enough to be able to do the job. Also, are you just running coax up the length of that and using the coax as your antenna? What bands have you been able to get on that design? Thanks and 73! ka0rsn
+Gear Hammer I used to have the mast itself at 35 ft in length and then an antenna on top. The remainder of the mast was two more sections of heavy gauge fence post that telescoped into each other and into the remainder of the current 3 inch piece I am using as the mast for the fiberglass. I have also used fence top rail and EMT conduit in experiments. The problem I have found with using two or three sections of fence post or EMT, in my experience, is that due to the length I am using they are not very good in wind unless you are using guy wires. The weak points are at the coupling points. One ten foot section is fine but multiple sections become weak. I do use connected 1.25" fence top rail as a mast on an antenna tripod for temporary antenna experiments in the yard but not for my permanent installations. I have also used EMT for a 1/4 wave CB base antenna as well. In answer to your second question; The coax runs up the fiberglass mast and I am using the coax shield as the actual antenna. I have connected the inner conductor to the shield at the top and bottom as well. In addition, I put a female F connector at the top of the coax antenna so that I can use the coax as actual coax line to feed a small experimental antenna at the top if I desire. The design of the antenna is what MW DX'ers call a low-noise vertical which I use a broad band matching transformer of 44T:6T on an FT114 type J toroid in the small box at the bottom to match the MW and to some extent the LW bands. I am primarily a MW DX'er.
The crank is just a mini hand winch. I have all the parts and basic stuff I used in the more detailed part of the video description. You can probably use standard fence top rail for two sections for a temporary deployment w/o guy wires as a crank-up option like I am using it. But I would use thicker fence pipe for long-terp deployment. My antenna only up when I use it while I am using it.
+Darryl Mann It wasn't too hard to drill the holes. Just make sure your drill bit is sharp. Having a steel tap to make a little dimple on the tubing helps to get your drill started too.
I put it up about 10 years ago (2009) in its original version. I have had the fiberglass mast up for about 8 of those years. The galvanized steel parts show nothing other than the white/gray oxidation zinc gets over time. The fiberglass mast shows some discoloration from the sun but is still very flexible. The crank winch is the same as the metal mast pipe. The most affected by the weather has been the steel cable which was originally plastic coated. All of the plastic has dry-rotted, cracked and peeled off. The steel cable has surface rust/oxidation that looks normal and has not compromised strength. If/when I replace it I'd use a galvanized vs coated cable. All the bolt hardware is stainless and only shows rust in a couple of places like tips of threads or where there is a scratch. So overall I would say it is in excellent functioning shape. I wonder if a update video showing weathering would be useful?
I run a similar portable 29 foot wire vertical for field ops and POTA. I use a 9:1 transformer (EARCHI UnUn) to feed the wire and a 13 foot counterpoise. What's the turns/impedance ratio on your transformer in the box? De WB2VUO here near Buffalo, NY
@@kugellagers 42:6 would be a 7:1 turns ratio. The greater number of turns would help on the lower frequencies. This would yield a 49:1 impedance ratio. A common value seen in EFHW antennas. What ferrite or powdered iron mix do you use for the toroid? I tend to see a -43 ferrite mostly. De WB2VUO here near Buffalo, NY
@@Keith_WB2VUO Its been awhile since I cobbled all of this together but I believe I am using type J which is similar to type 75 ferrites. The low-noise vertical antennas I am using are based on those of Dallas Langford who uses a similar setup.
I wanted something that would be good in MW BCB and LW broadcast as well as NDB DX .Also, see my video detailing my low-noise antennas. ua-cam.com/video/hSwkM9aaGNU/v-deo.html
Similar to my setup. I'm using 30' top railing, 10' fiberglass antenna, 50' RG8X coaxial, a swivel clamp that connects the top railing to a 10' top railing next to it which is cemented. I have a 2' pvc that is cemented underneath the main mast so when the mast is up, I can slip it into the pvc which aids in keeping it stiff and secure, hand winch and pulley. It's all secured with aircraft galvanized wire rope at different points. Although the entire concept is about 30lbs, I don't often use the winch. It's not that heavy for me to tilt over with the swivel clamp. I have my CB antenna up, too.
The 30' of top rail doesn't flex too much? I've played with 20' of top rail with a temporary tripod setup for testing antennas but not 30'. My mast has been up there about 9 years now and the only signs of weathering has bee the plastic coating on the cable and a slight color change in the fiberglass mast. The original setup was much more heavy and tall and is totally overbuilt for how I have it configured now.
There's some flex with the 30' top railing when it reaches a specific angle while raising or lowering it, but, not much. It 's very stiff and doesn't move when I push it while It's up. But, It's still durable. Even with the flex, that stuff isn't going to bend. It's only taking about 3lbs-4lbs from the antenna for the highest top railing and the middle one take about 10lbs from the highest one, top railing is about 7lbs. I hammered the ends of the top railing in a bit to crimp it around each other, wrapped the ends with 3M electrical and rubber tape to make them thicker and add grip and keep them stiffer and some galvanized bolts and washers and Loctite. I had 20' of 1-1/4" pvc up for about three years, even during that mass hurricane I had last year. It held up, no damage. Maybe because the walls between both houses block a lot of wind. I wanted to go with a more easy and professional setup, though, so, I decided the top railing. That's good about your setup, though. I periodically addon little upgrades such as more guy wires when I have the funds to make sure everything is good. I just like taking extra steps sometimes. I thought of trying some conduit in the electrical area at home depot, about $7 for 10' galvanized. But, I went with the top railing because the ends were tapered so they can connect. Although galvanized sleeves don't cost much. Top railing was $12.99, so, the conduits were half price. I have eye bolts in the top raining to connect the winch and guy wires. I may relocate my pulley, but, it gets annoying drilling through masonry.
You gave me some ideas. I appreciate your hard work, and sharing it with us.
This is just brilliant!!! Thanks so much for taking the time to do this video! Cheers DE VK2DNA!
Very nice system. I like the choice of materials and the overall simplicity of the system that usually results in lower maintenance issues over time
The setup is still going strong now after about 12 years now. I should do a long-term weather effects video for my construction.
Do any of you guys ever think to show the entire assembly Before all the close-ups? UA-cam needs an option to play stuff like this backwards. Besides, it's not safe. Or legal. How many weeks did it last?
If you watched it you would know it’s been up for over 7 years.
nice job, I designed the same tilt over mast but used 4 X 4's (2) 12 foot in the ground and the center pivot is 20 feet, same as you, 3 feet into the ground, and 4 feet nested between the 2 base 4 X 4's, crank is on a lynch post (9 ft. + 16 ft. = 25 feet) then electrical kindorf (U channel) bolt mounts a piece of chain link fence top rail (10.5 ft.) to the top of the pivot 4 X 4 mast adding 6.5 feet for a total of 31.5 feet to the base of the antenna
Keep up the good work Rekindling The Reformation !!
Never run your rebar into the ground, they quickly rust all the way into the concrete.
Recently code has changed. They found not enough oxygen is underneath to support the rust theory. Rebar can now be ran into the ground on house footings .
nice job but how do you secure you mast? Not a good dea to let it hold on the crank winch!!!safety first
The crank winch has a locking mechanism that could be padlocked if necessary. I never have the antenna up for long as I only use it when I DX. I only crank the antenna up when I DX.
Never saddle a dead horse
Very ingenious! I like it a lot.
For additional safety, I would put another 1/2" bolt/wing nut near the bottom or middle to secure the mast for accidently falling, using the crank to secure the mast is asking for trouble!!!!
Hi Ben, Thanks for the concern. The winch has a locking mechanism and the ability to actually put a lock or bolt to secure it (when up or down) as well - so there is no worry of it failing. The cable is 1/4" steel cable and has several thousand pounds breaking strength and about 1400 lbs working strength. For my uses it very safe as I only use it in good weather...I think it is more than sufficient for how I use it.
I totally agree with you, Ben. The time and cost to do that is minimal and the added safety priceless. The cable is already rusting and there is no way I would risk my safety or the safety of loved ones on just that cable. Good luck though! I love the idea!
Same reason tow truck drivers have to use chains to secure the front of a vehicle... just in case the winch and/or cable breaks.
Nice, simplistic idea that could work well with a sleeved Spiderbeam or DX Commander setup for those of us with strict HOA's that we unfortunately have to deal with... thanks for taking the time to make the post! 73
Most HOA's allow for the installation of a flagpole in the front yard. I always thought if I lived in a neighborhood that had a lot of restrictions I would put up that largest flagpole they would allow...flagpole insulated from the base of course then set the length to the frequency range I dx the most of course. Utilize a matching transformer if needed. ;'D
That is a very neat antenna mast design and you have done a brilliant job describing it. Thanks for posting it. Have you made any modifications to it since the video was first published in 2015 ? Thanks, Jamie VK2YCJ
No I have not made any further mods - other than adjusting the U-bolts as others have recommended. It is currently the same as in the video. Everything seems to be holding up well to the weather and time.
Thanks, that is good news. Jamie VK2YCJ
@@kugellagers what adjustments to ubolts did you do ?
@@lancelarymore1667 I fixed the Ubolts per Dave Vick's (and others) comments...I think I did it correctly anyway.
I was going to do a similar project, but with lumber (2x4 and 4x4). I like your idea better. Thanks for outstanding idea. George KD4FJ.
Excellent! Congrats on a fine feature. Gives me some ideas.
73
KD2MCH/AG
Bob
I'am Your Newest Subscriber In Florida I Love My Antron 99 Antenna I Just Got A Used Ground Plane Kit For My Antron 99 At The Hame Radio Fest 25.00 US
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I am really, really liking these ideas. It has me really thinking of doing something like this. Especially since my HOA has started coming down on me for having a small temp 2m mast in my front yard and already stomped on me for my g5rv HF antenna. I have an area on the side of my house much like you do. So i'm thinking of this x2. Thx so much!
Have you seen my "Stealthy tilt-over mast hidden by chimney" video? I built it for my VHF/UHF antennas ad it hides them fairly well. m.ua-cam.com/video/jS-reVGR_2s/v-deo.html
Excellent very secure base looking forward to following your design
Thank you!!! Watched a lot of videos on this and yours is the best idea I've seen yet!!! I will be building this as soon as the weather breaks!!!! Thanks again!!
Well…never thought of that! Great idea. Getting my general license soon so I’m looking for options and this one seems perfect!
Awesome, I wanna do this, should I work fine for my cushcraft MAB5
first use SS aircraft grade wire rope.
second build a cover for the winch.
third rebuild the winch with a screw drive system this way the weight on the winch drum will not go wiled with the handle.
a worm can drive a gear,
but a gear can not drive a worm.
were you are attaching the wire rope to the tower pole just us a loop bolt. no need for those two clamps. and get the pole end of the wire set up right in a pressure clamp . just looks cleaner than those grip nut/bolts.
Can I use it as a catapult to send packages from a house to another? Thanks.
Possibly. But only if it is less than 2 kg. Cheers.
Trebo-touché
packet radio v2.0
Just a heads up on the use of the cable clamps. The little "U" shaped clamps. I'm a retired crane operator after 50 years in the field. Did a lot of changing of cables through the years. Here's a little saying to help you remember which way the clamps face when you put them on the cable. "You never saddle a dead horse." So the little short end of cable sticking out past the clamps is the dead end. You don't put the saddle on that cable. Spin it around so the saddle sits on the long cable, "The live end" Also you only need one cable clamp. Because each clamp you put on the cable reduces the strength of the cable by 50%. All of this information is located in a book of cable rigging standards.
Thanks for the comment. You are the second person to mention that in the last month but gave a more detailed explanation. I will go fix that when I get the chance. When I put this mast up about 9 years ago it was the first time I ever did anything with steel cable. I definitely want it to be as safe as possible. Cheers.
Man!
You have gave me some really good ideas on how I am gonna do my mast :)
Thank You!
Love it! 73s from Ridge Hiker 595 Lake Tahoe, Nevada.
I recently saw this video and liked the idea a lot. I decided to go ahead with putting my own crank-up mast in place. So last week the hole was dug. 1 meter long by 3/4 meter wide by 1 meter deep. Each pole is 3 meters long and 50mm wide so 10 feet long by 2 inches wide by 1/8 wall thickness.
Today I put in a cavity concrete block and got some rebar and 5 other 1 meter lengths of various galvanised 26 mm steel bars, wired them all together with galvanised fence wire. Lined the hole with stones of various sizes and put sixteen bags of concrete mix on top of all that. Today is Wednesday 14/04/21 and by Sunday coming, the 18/04/21 the concrete should be well dry and time then to put the rest of it together. I hope to be able to raise the mast to about 35 feet or so. I put a latch bar on so when it is raised it goes across the back of the mast to hold it in place, put there as a little extra safety precaution, no harm it being there. I enjoyed the project but doing it is hard work. Mine is up a hill so everything had to be carried by hand. Thanks for sharing your idea and I'll give an update on the rest of the project at a later date.
Yay! Congratulations!
Learn how to use those wire clamps properly. Be careful to use a high grade bolt as the hinge pin... come cheap bolts are very soft and not safe in shear like this. Paying a little extra for a worm drive winch.. will pay benefits in retained teeth.
Yeah the video is over 7 years old and many have commented on it. Been fixed a long time ago.
Thank you very much for sharing this video. This is what I had in mind for my future vertical antenna but I wasn't sure how to go about putting it together. Amazing job! Where did you buy the crank mechanism? Make / model. Thanks again!
At my local Ace Hardware store. They have a lot of stuff you don't always see at the big box places. Here is a link to I think the same crank/winch I am using in the video: www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=17209176 I also added winch info to the video description up above.
+Kugellagers Noodle Excellent! I'll be ordering this winch very soon. Thanks again for your informative video and posting the link. 73's WA4NE
NICE! I have pretty much the same design in mind. You helped me flesh it out. 73
This is going to be my next build. Perfect setup for what i need
Nice set-up! Very nicely constructed. Thanks for sharing.
Awesome stealthy. I think I'd use the stab in plant holders to stay at the mast supporting points so it lowers right into the hoop and lifts right out from the level supported point.
I just didn't want another thing for the kids or the dog to potentially run into. That's why I support it with the hook/loops.
This is great, extremely functional. Probably going to borrow this idea.
Thanks for posting this video.
I live on the NC Coast. Lowes guided me to the fence post as antenna tower, but Hurricane Florence laughed at that 3 10' section of fence post, pretty much tying them into pretzels. So I regrouped and now I'm using thicker gauge steel electrical conduit and only 20 feet due to the weight, which is where your winch idea comes in!
I got my winch to lift a 35 ft of heavier gauge of telescoping fence posts starting with the 3" at the bottom. So it is plenty strong to lift what I have now. I over built it.
Suggestion... Use mule tape on your winch instead of wire rope.
Very elegant design. I am thinking of something similar for a 2m / 70cm antenna next to my house/garage.
I know this is an old video but my internet company wants to charge me $5000 dollars to install a 50ft tower to hold their miniature receiver So I can receive their signal. Would it be possible to make this rigid for 50ft ?? Their equipment is like a miniature satellite dish. I’m sure I wouldn’t want any sway so I was wondering if thick gage pipe would stay rigid at that height ? .
I don't think they would allow that to be used for such an installation. Anything they would put up is on their liability for safety and site needs and w
would have tp be to their specifications. They would definitely no want something to sway. Also, if this were a 50ft tall permanent construction you would have to have guy wires (or a much thicker mast with no guy wires.).
A brake-winch is a better idea than a ratchet winch. Have to protect them from the weather a bit more, but your thumb will thank you one day.
Good vid, TY.
Nice design
I saw you UA-cam video I did just like yours is a lot easier thank you very much
Thanks for the video, I like this set up! Good job!
Great DIY CB antenna mate!
Hope i dont need planning permission when mine goes up
Thank you for sharing this video. I've been scouring hours worth of videos trying to find THIS.
how is your antenna working? - both when it is up, and can you use it when it is down??
It works great when it is up. When it is in the down position it still works but the signal levels go way down and the noise goes up. The whole setup is still in great condition even though it has been installed for nearly 15 years in that spot.
KUT ,YOU SHOW HOW ITS WORK WITH THE 30 FEET STEELL PIPE ,THANKS RAMON ,I WANT TO BUILD ONE LIKE YOURS.
I no longer have the mast as 35 feet of all steel pipe but I did
describe it below under Gear Hammer's question. The base and winch are
adequately strong to use steel pipe as I used to have it. Was that what
you were asking?
Thanks for a great video. I subscribed and watched the whole video. I'm a new ham and am running long wire for HF. I want a tower system for 2 meter. This looks good.
This is a great design, just what I'm searching for. Many thanks for posting.
WOULD YOU PLEASE MAKE A HOW TO BUILD ONE OF THESE USING TEE-YINY BABY STEPS FOR DUMMIES LIKE ME?
PRETTY PLEASE.
I need my Ambient Weather station WS-1001 WIFI unit up but understand hows to does it.
HELP HELP anyone reading this, help help
I just do videos of what I do for myself. I honestly do not have the time or resources to videos that cover all aspects of what I do. Sorry. :(
Hey brother. I know this video is almost 7 years old. Im a ham radio tech but also a helium miner. Im in a sweet location but surrounded by trees and buildings. My antenna even at almost 30 feet up is performing poorly. This design is intriguing.... I've watched this video several times and am strongly considering giving it a try. But I want more height , approx 75 to 100 feet. I noticed you used fiberglass for the parts of the design beyond half way up and the reduction in weight makes sense. So I guess Im asking in your opinion could a mast built based on your design be upscaled to a possible 100 feet? If not please tell me why and if so, please explain what Im in for. And if you have any interest in helium mining I would be glad to trade out my expertise for yours. For some context many Hams are also helium mining because there are so many parallels between the two.
I would think everything would have to be scaled up considerably to go as high as 75-100 ft. You would certainly want guy wires of some sort if it is permanent the force from wind and sheer weight of the structure increase significantly. You would quite a bit more concrete for the pier as well to support the setup. Maybe you could hing the mast in the middle to make it easier to store when not deployed.
Fantastic idea. Thanks so much sir, for making the video. MC7 in Bama 7 3's
You apparently have never had a problem, but you should have a safety on that so nobody could play with it and have it come crashing down.
I never have the antenna up when I am not DX'ing. But I put a padlock on the winch when I am not using it so that it cannot be cranked up. Definitely a good safety tip.
Is your crank a regular boat crank or is one that set to where you have a easy to pull up?
The small winch is pretty much the same as one for a boat. It makes it really easy to raise the mast and locks in place. The exact winch I am using in in my video description above and has a link to it.
Nice! Mikey likey, and I'm old and crusty and I hate most everything.
best system
Good . Strong, cheap, fit for purpose. I'd be tempted to fit a through-bolt for when it is up, just for peace of mind.
Nice
Like!
Thinking of mounting a weather station on one like this.
Whats something like this cost? I wanna add my 50’ pole for something like this for easy access. Thanks
Consider it took about 9-10 bags of cement and the original mast was telescoping fence posts about 35 ft tall. I built this over 10 years ago as well. I want to say the fence posts cost me $250-300 USD, the cement was less then $100 and the winch is $30-40. So less than $500. If I were to rebuild it today as configured with the fiberglass mast and much less fence post it would not have to be so sturdy. I would say today it would be less than $400 in its current configuration - antennas/transformers not included. But I built all that myself too.
Can you send me the link where I could buy this that’s an excellent job you did I give you six stars I have a pipe that’s next to a pipe and 24 inch pipe plus Antenna 99 I see how you did yours can you tell me the best way to do it I’m in the middle of losing my legs I wanted to get this done before they take him one day congratulation
You can't just buy this. I built it from scratch.
I like your set up I’m thinking of doing like you have Antron 99 I want to know if you can send me the link how do you made it all the detail I have no legs but I’m gonna have somebody do it for me and will you buy the wheel to crank it up and where it supposed to be safe that you don’t have to be tied down I think it’s 10 or 20 whatever and how I tied down to the bottom the whole detail Appreciate it my friend when you get a chance thank you
I didn't follow and specific plan but cobbled it together from what I found on the web. The closest to a plan that I have is the diagram in the video.
Getting ready to build this same setup. Ive had a 2-7/8" sch. 40 galvanized mast 24' for about 6 months now. Im adding a 2-3/8" light gauge galvanized, which will slip into the larger piece, and extending the mast. The piece Im adding is 16' and will slip into the sch 40 galvanized 8'. So the mast height will be 32', plus the 6' 2m antenna atop that. The HF antenna is an inverted L and will go up to 25' and then horizontal. Since Ive got to drop the mast to add on, Im going to go ahead and copy this setup. Will make things much easier later
It makes working at the antennas on top a breeze. Just make sure you leave enough cable at the pivot point to flex and bend as you put it up or crank it down.
Thank You for sharing your construction ideas! I have a place way out in the country (no cable tv, etc.), and need to erect an antenna tower for an antenna.
4 meters from the ground is low, My 5/8 Wave Antenna sits on a 10 meter pole
It is for AM BCB and LW BCB DX only. But you can put whatever length of mast on you want. I used have just the mast part of it 35ft before any antenna.
Mu dad made the same concept but we used 4 inch steel pipe for the base . Dad had threaded the ends so went from 10 foot 4 inch to 3 inch 10 foot 2 inch so on to reach 40 foot.We didn't think of the wench.Great design for those who like to play!
thanks for anwser my question. ramon berry goood,i want to made 1 like yours ,for a dipole and i want to put 3 fence pipes of 10 feet each.
Have you had the antenna extended during any significant winds? I'm not talking about hurricane or cyclone strength, but say 25 - 35mph? If so how does it handle? Asking because of how flexible it is, any concerns about it maybe snapping? Like the concept, something like this might work well for my home, darn HOA. Thanks.
Jim K Hi Jim, If you look at my Low Noise Vertical MW BCB DX'ing Antennas video you can see this same antenna behaving in about 15 mph wind gusts. ua-cam.com/video/hSwkM9aaGNU/v-deo.html. I don't know if I would keep it up in much more than 15-20 mph gusting winds but it can take some winds as long as there is only a wire antenna supported by the mast as I have it. I used to have a much heavier and larger surface antenna on top and would not put it up with winds much over 10 mph. But as I currently have it in the video, I would say you could go to at least 15 mph w/o much worry. Of course if you rig some quick deploying guy wires it should be able to take more. As you can see by the flexing as I crank it up it in this video can bend quite a bit.
Thanks for this, the diagram and video have helped me plan my own mast.
Nice video. Thank you for sharing it. Great job!
You need to get a Helium Hotspot and hook an antenna up to that thing =)
I would Add rod through the 3 posts when in up pos. so not relying on cranks finger latch only to hold her up. nice though
I can put a lock in the crank if I leave it up any amount of time. But I crank it up only why I am using it.
Very cool project with great results has given me some excellent ideas nice job !!
If you decide to leave the antenna up, do you guy it?
I don't guy it on the rare occasion it is up more than a day. It is very flexible fiberglass and I don't DX if winds are over 15-20 sustained. If you look at my Low-noise Vertical Antenna video you can see it flexing in some 15 mph ish winds in the last two minutes or so. It can flex a lot more than in that video.
One of your saddle clamps is in on the wrong way round...the best way to remember how they go on is the old saying, "Never saddle a dead horse." So the "U" bolt goes over the dead end, short part of the cable and the saddle goes over the live or long section of cable. And like the other fella said, you need a way to secure the moving mast near the bottom, relying on the boat winch is asking for a trip to the hospital. But well done, quite clever.
I did something similar a few years ago with 4x4, 2x4 and a 12vdc ATV winch.
I have a few grey hairs, and I never knew that about saddle clamps. Thanks for the lesson!
Great system!
Could you tell us what is the actual antenna you are using?
Thanks
It's a 27' low-noise vertical of my own construction for MW/LW dx'ing and based on designs of Dallas Lankford.
really neat and looks easy
Great set up ,thanks for sharing
What do you think of useing a longer center fence pole for a 10 ft fiberglass antenna
I think it is plenty strong for that. Fiberglass is light.
looks like a breeze rider we get 50- 60 mile per hour storms here bet its really steady then maybe you're trying to to get broadband the mast head should be in a broadband to say the least
It is used as a broadband antenna and has a matching transformer for MW that works a little bit for LW as well. Although it can stand a good bit of wind I rarely use it when winds are over about 10 mph.
Nice job! Quick question: What about using some 1 inch EMT conduit that is coupled together instead of the fiberglass tubing? I know it would be a bit heavier, but that winch you have seems heavy duty enough to be able to do the job. Also, are you just running coax up the length of that and using the coax as your antenna? What bands have you been able to get on that design?
Thanks and 73!
ka0rsn
+Gear Hammer I used to have the mast itself at 35 ft in length and then an antenna on top. The remainder of the mast was two more sections of heavy gauge fence post that telescoped into each other and into the remainder of the current 3 inch piece I am using as the mast for the fiberglass. I have also used fence top rail and EMT conduit in experiments. The problem I have found with using two or three sections of fence post or EMT, in my experience, is that due to the length I am using they are not very good in wind unless you are using guy wires. The weak points are at the coupling points. One ten foot section is fine but multiple sections become weak. I do use connected 1.25" fence top rail as a mast on an antenna tripod for temporary antenna experiments in the yard but not for my permanent installations. I have also used EMT for a 1/4 wave CB base antenna as well.
In answer to your second question; The coax runs up the fiberglass mast and I am using the coax shield as the actual antenna. I have connected the inner conductor to the shield at the top and bottom as well. In addition, I put a female F connector at the top of the coax antenna so that I can use the coax as actual coax line to feed a small experimental antenna at the top if I desire. The design of the antenna is what MW DX'ers call a low-noise vertical which I use a broad band matching transformer of 44T:6T on an FT114 type J toroid in the small box at the bottom to match the MW and to some extent the LW bands. I am primarily a MW DX'er.
Great job 👏
I only need like top rails and the crank tilt over parts. Not sure yet tho how to do it or the best way.
The crank is just a mini hand winch. I have all the parts and basic stuff I used in the more detailed part of the video description. You can probably use standard fence top rail for two sections for a temporary deployment w/o guy wires as a crank-up option like I am using it. But I would use thicker fence pipe for long-terp deployment. My antenna only up when I use it while I am using it.
Are you using ground radials on this at all or just the vertical? What bands do you use this on?
This is only used for AM and LW DX'ing. I don't transmit. However, there is an 8 ft ground rod grounding the mast.
nice setup, great ideas. Cheers :) atb Richie.
Who makes the mast?
I made it. See description for details/links.
A marine store sells stainless steel cable that would never rust.
It's a pretty arid environment here and very little rust but I would totally recommend your suggestion.
Nice video. What's the capacity of your hand winch?
All the details are in my video description but the working capacity is 1300 lbs. Cost is about $40-50 USD.
Do you have any measure drawings for this tower ?
Just in the first static slide at the beginning and again at the end of the video.
Great video, you've given me some ideas! Thanks!
Nice job. Good video and instruction. I might be doing this sort of antenna.
Just remembered I have a crank on my old boat trailer. Put the pole in the ground today. How hard was it to drill in the holes?
+Darryl Mann It wasn't too hard to drill the holes. Just make sure your drill bit is sharp. Having a steel tap to make a little dimple on the tubing helps to get your drill started too.
good set-up..well built,,design and thought out...
Clever stuff thanks Shane uk
very cool.
Considering this myself. thanks for the video. What is the status of your antenna mast now that it's may 9, 2019?
I put it up about 10 years ago (2009) in its original version. I have had the fiberglass mast up for about 8 of those years. The galvanized steel parts show nothing other than the white/gray oxidation zinc gets over time. The fiberglass mast shows some discoloration from the sun but is still very flexible. The crank winch is the same as the metal mast pipe. The most affected by the weather has been the steel cable which was originally plastic coated. All of the plastic has dry-rotted, cracked and peeled off. The steel cable has surface rust/oxidation that looks normal and has not compromised strength. If/when I replace it I'd use a galvanized vs coated cable. All the bolt hardware is stainless and only shows rust in a couple of places like tips of threads or where there is a scratch. So overall I would say it is in excellent functioning shape. I wonder if a update video showing weathering would be useful?
Genius! Lots of good ideas. Thanks.
I run a similar portable 29 foot wire vertical for field ops and POTA. I use a 9:1 transformer (EARCHI UnUn) to feed the wire and a 13 foot counterpoise. What's the turns/impedance ratio on your transformer in the box?
De WB2VUO here near Buffalo, NY
I'm using 42:6 turns for AM BCB and LW based on articles by John Bryant: www.dxing.info/equipment/
@@kugellagers 42:6 would be a 7:1 turns ratio. The greater number of turns would help on the lower frequencies. This would yield a 49:1 impedance ratio. A common value seen in EFHW antennas. What ferrite or powdered iron mix do you use for the toroid? I tend to see a -43 ferrite mostly.
De WB2VUO here near Buffalo, NY
@@Keith_WB2VUO Its been awhile since I cobbled all of this together but I believe I am using type J which is similar to type 75 ferrites. The low-noise vertical antennas I am using are based on those of Dallas Langford who uses a similar setup.
I wanted something that would be good in MW BCB and LW broadcast as well as NDB DX .Also, see my video detailing my low-noise antennas. ua-cam.com/video/hSwkM9aaGNU/v-deo.html
Similar to my setup. I'm using 30' top railing, 10' fiberglass antenna, 50' RG8X coaxial, a swivel clamp that connects the top railing to a 10' top railing next to it which is cemented. I have a 2' pvc that is cemented underneath the main mast so when the mast is up, I can slip it into the pvc which aids in keeping it stiff and secure, hand winch and pulley. It's all secured with aircraft galvanized wire rope at different points. Although the entire concept is about 30lbs, I don't often use the winch. It's not that heavy for me to tilt over with the swivel clamp. I have my CB antenna up, too.
The 30' of top rail doesn't flex too much? I've played with 20' of top rail with a temporary tripod setup for testing antennas but not 30'. My mast has been up there about 9 years now and the only signs of weathering has bee the plastic coating on the cable and a slight color change in the fiberglass mast. The original setup was much more heavy and tall and is totally overbuilt for how I have it configured now.
There's some flex with the 30' top railing when it reaches a specific angle while raising or lowering it, but, not much. It 's very stiff and doesn't move when I push it while It's up. But, It's still durable. Even with the flex, that stuff isn't going to bend. It's only taking about 3lbs-4lbs from the antenna for the highest top railing and the middle one take about 10lbs from the highest one, top railing is about 7lbs. I hammered the ends of the top railing in a bit to crimp it around each other, wrapped the ends with 3M electrical and rubber tape to make them thicker and add grip and keep them stiffer and some galvanized bolts and washers and Loctite. I had 20' of 1-1/4" pvc up for about three years, even during that mass hurricane I had last year. It held up, no damage. Maybe because the walls between both houses block a lot of wind. I wanted to go with a more easy and professional setup, though, so, I decided the top railing. That's good about your setup, though. I periodically addon little upgrades such as more guy wires when I have the funds to make sure everything is good. I just like taking extra steps sometimes. I thought of trying some conduit in the electrical area at home depot, about $7 for 10' galvanized. But, I went with the top railing because the ends were tapered so they can connect. Although galvanized sleeves don't cost much. Top railing was $12.99, so, the conduits were half price. I have eye bolts in the top raining to connect the winch and guy wires. I may relocate my pulley, but, it gets annoying drilling through masonry.