24V 1000W power supply - what's inside
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- Опубліковано 8 сер 2021
- A teardown of a powerful Chinese 24V 41.7A 1000W switching power supply module from eBay. What surprises might me hiding inside?
The next episode - test & measurements:
• 24V 1000W power supply...
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Before it's even opened, it's already downgraded to 800W.
Maybe I should make a 10kW PSU using 100W rated parts, and claim "DO NOT EXCEED 1% OF RATING".
Lol
LMFAO
,,Bifore"
Chinese watts are half the size of normal ones already, so I wouldn't push this past 400 watts or so.
"Maybe I should make a 10kW PSU using 100W rated parts, and claim "DO NOT EXCEED 1% OF RATING"." - Wow, I see a bright future for you in the Chinese electronics engineering industry!
Geez. They take drop-shipping literally
My 1kVA variac was slightly damaged in shipping. I decided to rewire the thing anyway to solve some minor safety issues.
Another video without your cat :-( Just kidding, I am looking forward to the autopsy of the capacitors and transformer! Btw., do the pointy pins of the controller board touch the capacitor on the main board? Some vibration and heat and you might get sparks or an explosion :-)
The cat was probably hiding in a nuclear bunker thinking that I'm going to power it up in this episode :D. They don't touch the capacitors, but it's barely 1mm away.
@@DiodeGoneWild what a dangerous distance!
Yes! A new video from Diode!
The car alternator gives 14 V to the battery. I had the idea of designing a boost converter to make an home made "xenon lights". For note, the halogen lamps could not resist for long time with more than 15,5 V. But they can handle 15,5 V pretty well. During the experiments I fried a few MOSFETs until I discover that, if I switch on the MOSFET a few seconds after turning on the light the MOSFET would not burn (maybe the avalanche was avoided). So the final circuit had a relay that was activated with delay and turned on the MOSFET. Seeing this PS with a relay inside made me remember of that. I will wait for the next episode Mr. DGWild. Thank you.
I really appreciate your circuit explanations.
"BIFORE... bloody hell"! ahahahahahahahahhh 🤣😂🤣💖👍
I laughed so hard here lol
@@omniyambot9876 🤣
The stuff all over the board is probably flux residue from a half-hearted attempt to wash it after soldering which just spread the residue over the board rather than removing it. Ive had a few of this type of supply too and most of them have also had similar muck inside. It would be quite a coincidence if they had all had something spilled in them.
Very nice and informative tutorial bro
Honestly I think reusing old components that are known for their longevity from scrap electronics is a good thing. Environment friendly solution. Not sure about electrolytic caps, I would like them new in my device, but transformers, inductors, diodes, resistors - no problem.
Ecologically I full agree: Reusing parts is way better for the environment than recycling them for their raw materials. The challenge is recertification: Any used part needs to be verified to be in good condition, otherwise the quality of the product cannot be guaranteed. I'm not sure if there already exist best practises how to recertify used parts. If they exist I'm sure those Chinese garage manufacturers don't use them.
@@danielmantione Yep, that's what the "OK QC1" guy's sticker is....chinese recertification...LOL!
Transformer between primary and secondary is pretty much the most safety critical component in a PSU, and it's mighty expensive. There's isn't necessarily a way to tell whether it hasn't sustained thermal damage during its life, until it catches fire.
I mean you can rebuild it, you can reuse the core, recycle copper for scrap metal, and wind fresh copper and insulation; but then given it's a safety critical process, i really don't want a random alcoholic uncle in some Chinese cellar doing the winding. The uncle must be at the very least ISO9001 certified.
I also wouldn't say power semiconductors including diodes are particularly known for their longevity in such use. Basically everything it's made from is prone to substantial wear.
@@englishrupe01 QC probably means "Quality China". Just like CE is "China export"
"I would like them new in my device, but transformers, inductors, diodes, resistors - no problem." - That's really NOT a good idea. MAYBE inductors and resistors, but with semiconductor parts (e.g. diodes, transistors, triacs, chips etc.) and transformers (due to the thermal degradation of their winding) you really can't tell for sure how much component life is left in them. And that introduces an unacceptable level of uncertainty into a design, which gives you an increased risk of premature device failure.
Someone spilled their cocacola on the power supply
must have been a party in the factory at the day
Dont think they have cocacola in a Uighur staffed factory.
Next episode will be interestinnngggg
Great review as always. THANX
Before my grandmother passed away..... I used to read her the instructions from Chinese products. I don't think I ever saw her laugh harder at anything. Did my mom got really sick and passed away last year and I used to go to the hospital every day for over a year and a lot of times I would read her the same type of manuals that come from some of the Chinese products that I purchased. It was always a good time and brought the laughs!!
Whether it be exaggerated or not, I really love our accent ❤️❤️❤️
Hello, another nice video, thanks ! can you please show how the fan is supplied ?
Do more videos on power supplies...I like it.... Greetings from India.
Outstanding many thumbs up.
The core of the output inductor isn't made of iron powder, it's made of sendust, which is similar to iron powder, but it's an alloy of iron, silicon and aluminium. An iron powder core of this size would cook itself at this power because of the core losses at high frequency.
That's one big badass power supply! :)
It will make a loud bang when it lets go. Maybe some sparks and flame too? The Chinese were always gifted when it came to crafting fireworks. They have not lost their touch in the modern era either.
True lol
10:20 Actually the current is lower than the previous power supply, and what matters when it comes to dissipation in a diode is the current, not the voltage.
But like I said in another comment, the last power supply was a 12V 30A 360W model, and I think this one is like 500 or 600W. You are always looking for the cheapest possible and then what you find is scams, not the real models
we wait next part :)
Nice!
1000W and no PFC? Huh the net sure likes that
Cheers !
‘Nichicon’ caps in a cheap Chinese power supply 🤣.
DiodeGoneWild: how much did you pay for this one? (Just curious). Thanks!
Possibly salvaged from old computer power supply or something else from the landfill. Or old stock caps that are electronically leaky. 😂
Or cheap caps with a fake heat shrink wrap.
Also curious about the price.
@@hullinstruments those are certainly salvaged from old computer power supplies cus the heatshrink wrap looks too real and i have previously bought some old used capacitors and they are very real but has dents ... i used them on tesla coil project so it was nothing critical .
@@KuntalGhosh If the wrap was real I would expect to see some tooling marks from when they were pulled from a board. Whoever pulled them used some force to dent the cans like they did. Unless they did have the jaws wrapped with tape? Which is a possibility. Sketchy Chinese electronics are a mystery.
@@1pcfred even if these parts are salvaged they can be good if u test them before purchasing , i am in india and local markets do sell salvaged electronic parts which makes hobby projects really cheap cus the price is like 10 times cheaper in many cases compared to new & better than getting fakes + if it blows up it won't be a huge loss. i bought some 450v 390uf aishi caps and they are very good for half a $ each .
@@1pcfred so did some research of the cap shown in video and it is fake , there is no 250v 1500uf cap made by UCC for KMH series . in the datasheet closest cap is either 1200uf or 1800uf .
I can't imagine this switcher costing more than 30 USD. And the components used surely are not new but recycled. Generally, you get what you pay for, but for Chinese stuff, you rarely get anything near what you pay for. Ah well, it is what it is. I want to see it spit fire and smoke!! Good video!
You are genius!!!!
That spill marks can be flux or rosin too not sure tho
And those primary caps might be also fake nippon chemi con or salvaged.
My thoughts also. These china factories use their flux like wall paint.
@@lauraiss1027 ya lol
Nice video. The fakes and/or recycled parts are rampant these days with all the parts shortages, more so then ever before.
Also add the 12V fan is running off the 24V supply output, so it will have a very short but very fast life. Yes likely the main filter capacitors are recycled, but I will bet they are actually 330uF 400V ones, probably originally no name brand, but with a new shrink sleeve, a new brown top plastic cap they magically are new again. Same for the output, they might not even be 105C ones, just regular 85C ones with a new sleeve on them, and again anything from 1000uF 50V to 4700uF 16V, as the can size is the same.
They passed QC check, in that, for the 10 seconds they were turned on, while the output adjustment was turned to get to 24V, they did not quite get hot enough to explode into orbit. Would not take any bets about polarity either, easy enough for the sleeve to be put on the wrong way, and for most capacitors they will operate for at least 15 seconds this way. Heatsink spreader likely also a recycled piece, they came off some other equipment, along with the thermal pad, and the power transistors, so were used here again, the thermal paste on the silpad is a give away they are recycled parts.
I was looking on the board for where the auxiliary PSU was for the fan. You think they're just running it at 12V? Zoom! I bet she's a real screamer if that's the case.
@@1pcfred I followed the traces on the video on the underside, ran to 0V plane, and then a thin one to the 24V output side.
@@SeanBZA It is a bold choice they've made then. Overclocking the fan. It's extra cooling.
Did you not make a video on the type of topologies for smps?
Please do more Audits !
👍👍👍👍👍 My humble thanks.
we could also ask for a detailed description of this such as 12V 50A 600W power supply about
0:36 WTF? Is the 1000 watt power supply telling me not to load it more than 80%?
Good PC PSU provide the declared power for a long time and even higher than the declared one in short moments without any damage. The power reserve is created for the reliability and stability of the computer components, and not for the power supply to survive. The sticker says 1000 watts is just peak power and 800 watts nominal...
What?? 1000W without a PFC???? Isn't it illegal?
It is really nasty, lol. Yes, new designs above 150W or so need to have a PFC onboard to be approved by local institutes, otherwise they aren't allowed to be sold. Of course Chinese don't give a single fuck ;)
Of course. But it's "made in chinb"
@@teslakovalaborator European Union regulations require PFC even from 75W upwards. The "CE" mark is a self-certification that the manufacturer claims that the device complies to all relevant EU regulations. So in this case, if there is a CE mark, the manufacturer lies about compliance, just as they did in the 600W supply in the previous videos. You can't really call it a "fake" CE mark, because the CE mark for consumer equipment, even if applied honestly, doesn't require any certicication lab to check the equipment for compliance.
@Samuel As capacitor dropper LED lights are below 75W per unit, those lights are legal in the EU.
01:08....BIFORE....
Bloddy hell
LOL
You've probably already covered this... but I'm not very good at transformer black magic.... can you tell us more about why a flyback has an air gap?
hello, hoping you will explain why they put bridge rectifier in parallel. thanks
When in parallel, they share the current flowing through them, so in general - less load on each.
Yes 👍 🔌
I've got two UPS Power Supply in this style, which are just regular SMPS' with the classic honeycomb metal case but with connections for battery. Well, both exploded within minutes of operation, and, they got this same dirty PCB as yours. Maybe some kind of very ultra cheap production rosin? Not sure, I just bought them to explore the circuitry in the UPS part, and, it's just a resistor to limit the current going to the battery when on mains, and a relay to bypass the resistors when on battery, they are meant to be used with lead acid but the voltage adjustment for the output also change the voltage going to the battery, so I had no option but to adjust it to the optimal value to charge the batteries, anyway, now when I need to add UPS facility to a PSU module, I just wire it to the solar input of a simple PWM solar charge controller.
How to modify this smps to det dual supply of +-50VDC . Any simple ways to do it ?
in Samsung charger video what is wattage of fusible 12ohm resistor
Is there actually any point is putting diode bridges in parallel? From what I understand, only one of the diodes will conduct at a time because of slightly different voltage drops...
Diodes don't have a constant voltage drop. Their voltage drop grows with the logarithm of the current. So the current will somewhat divide between them, but not exactly 50% each. It depends on how much each piece differs. The voltage drop goes down with temperature, so there may also be a thermal runaway - the hotter one will have a lower voltage drop, thus it will carry more current and get even hotter and so on.
I have one of these. When I went to the website shown on the label the contact person listed said they had no affiliation with any company making this power supply ???
It seems like a very cheaply made power supply (the one I got from the same ebay company) I would buy NVVV instead for about the same money.
What is NVVV?
Perfect for a car amplifier for indoor use if only it was 12v :)
Please make a video on lab power supply diy
Where is your cat?I missed him so much!
Niiiiiceeeee!
Please do a video series designing an actual power supply.
I have a 24-volt, 1500-watt power supply same as this that barely gives a current of 26 amps. After that, it disconnects when the load increases. I replaced the capacitors, and knowing that the transformer coil is made of copper, I could not find any problem. Can you explain how to increase the current and the possible causes of this malfunction? With thanks and appreciation.
За хорошее видео лайкосик. Процветания Вашему каналу.
01:05 I laughed hard 🤣
He's trying to avoid his reflection on the case 😂
...while sitting on the floor in nothing but the boxers and crocs. 😁
I did note how shiny the case is. Very bling.
There's a pic of him on his website
What is the name of the ic used to drive the transistors
And is it mosfet or npn transistors?
Can we do 24V 100A maybe??
Yay we are back to testing and completely destroying a power supply 🙃
That power supply was doomed the day it was made. The day someone decided to make PSUs really. As their plan was not to produce the highest quality devices. Far from it.
👍
Was there no insulation between the bottom of the PCB and the case?
Hard for me to tell at 144p, but it didn't look like it.
there is a transparent insulation layer.
@@DiodeGoneWild It is the mobile version, known as MTIL! ;=)
Thank god caps are not filled with wax😂😂
We don't know yet. The wax would be under the sleeve.
@@1pcfred hope so
@@akhilesh7313 if they are filled the filling was not done well as a dent is still visible.
@@1pcfred ya 😂 that's Chinese style of fixing bro😂😂
@@akhilesh7313 maybe the dent is much deeper?
Hi! What's the number of the 8pins SMD IC?
Probably NCP1252A as is written on the back of the PCB
@@aleksandarvasilevski7410 Thank you. 😊😊😊
When China learning English in PRO way 🤣🤣🤣
Chinglish, level B+.
what country are you from Mr Diode Gone Wild?
Why is a forward converter so much more popular than a bridge?
It's simpler.
спасибо за субтитры
@0:49 i guess the video just ends here
This piece of an iron lead on your screwdriver bothers me a lot, lol.
Im amazed by the screw that is still holding on the screwdriver when he goes through the components. :D
Why the transistor is sad?
Because the transistor is crooked so it has poor thermal coupling which heats it up.
Bifore 😭
Lol
i like you videos dog... keep them going. please. don
Can someone explain why the caps can survive when they are only 250v on 230v mains
The power supply is based on half bridge topology.....The capacitors are connected in series to withstand upto 500v
Well they are is connected in series so they are can handle 230V mains
Není to nepohodlné natáčet na podlaze? Alespoň já bych se nevěděl soustředit 😄
Bifore LOL 🤣
Im waiting your making bunch power supply from this divece
Dont forget your promes
ITS SO SHINY
I'm telling you. The care it must have taken forming that case to keep it so shiny. That's Chinese stuff for you. Some bits are very nice then there's other bits that are not so nice.
no way in hell a N.C.C cap has that kind of print quality , 100% re bagged
There's absolutely no chance the label on the capacitors is genuine. A real manufacturer surely wouldn't have designed it as a semitone JPEG at 150dpi with visible dithering in printing. It would have been all vector and as sharp as the printing process can deliver.
Is there is another one if that's power supply is not enough?😂 And is it can truly supply 41amp? And which type of power supply is good for high voltage and current? transformer one or switching one?
Post this comment already, but possibly it will help you also.
Just leaving this info here, thought it might help some folks. I’ve learned a lot about power supplies over the years.
I have a electronics servicing business, and my own dedicated lab. I specialize in component level board repair, in industrial and Scientific equipment. For a wide range of industrial Clients. (Also a bit of test equipment recalibration and metrology to keep me on my toes)
I’m no genius… But I work with this stuff every day, and I’ve learned a lot the hard way. 😁
If you need a reliable power supply….that works no matter what…. for years and years… Buy a “Meanwell“ or other quality brand.
But if it’s not for an extremely important task, or a professional environment… or if you can’t afford a quality supply…. Don’t worry about it. Because a lot of these cheaper Chinese supplies are pretty decent. And with a bit of inspection and tinkering… You can have a pretty damn good supply in 5-10 minutes. But you have to be realistic, and know what to look for. Obviously if you’re watching this guys channel, then you know what to look for.
With cheaper power supplies, you should buy 50%-100% more powerful than needed. If you need 500 Watts….buy a 1000 Watt supply.
😁👍
Even with brand-name supplies will last longer if used below their maximum. So it’s good practice with either cheap or expensive supplies.
If you’re on a tight budget, or just want to tinker around.… buy a cheap supply… rated for more output wattage than you’re actually going to use…And use the videos on this channel to inspect common problems. If the transformer is well-made with copper windings…., everything else can be fixed or upgraded as needed. Or before you even use it.
For a few dollars, and a few minutes of your time…you can upgrade the filter caps and semiconductors. Or salvage them from a quality piece of electronics you have sitting around, or from the dump/e-waste center.
Or simply remove and test the important parts to be sure they are functioning properly.
You can even put the supply under load, like he’s done many times on this channel. But instead of pushing it to failure, test it to the same wattage you’re going to use….. to make sure it won’t explode or catch fire.
This is a wonderful way to learn and enjoy the Hobby of electronics.
Or if you’re not interested in electronics at all… At least your better equipped to diagnose and repair stuff in the future. Which is becoming extremely rare in this day and age. I swear, most of my time is spent pacing back-and-forth in my lab cursing under my breath ….”Jesus Christ nobody knows how to do shit anymore!”
Sorry to keep rambling…. Maybe this will help someone. Dan’s channel is a wonderful source of information for Hobbyists and professionals alike!
But we all know the cat is really calling the shots. 🐈👍
You're going to have to stay tuned to see what the output really is. DGW usually load tests them.
ha ha yes indeed, as if they would use new real Nippon Chemi-con caps on this supply LOL it would been too good for the rest of it
Nippon Chem-icon Capacitor is world famous and Made in Japan. But here Fake Chinese level.
Another great vid. But dear chinese we have to learn english again: "Bifore" 🤣🤣🤣
Just leaving this info here, thought it might help some folks. I’ve learned a lot about power supplies over the years.
I guess I should mention my “qualifications“….. or why I feel like I am worthy of giving advice. 😂
I am no genius, but I have a electronics servicing business, and my own dedicated lab. I specialize in component level board repair, in industrial and Scientific equipment. For a wide range of industrial Clients. (Also a bit of test equipment recalibration and metrology to keep me on my toes)
I’m usually one of the dumbest people in the room…But I work with this stuff every day, And I work way too many hours…..and I’ve learned a lot. (some of it the hard way)😁
If you need a reliable power supply….that works no matter what…. for years and years… Buy a “Meanwell“ or other quality brand.
But if it’s not for an extremely important task, or a professional environment… or if you can’t afford a quality supply…. Don’t worry about it. Because a lot of these cheaper Chinese supplies are pretty decent. And with a bit of inspection and tinkering… You can have a pretty damn good supply in 5-10 minutes. But you have to be realistic, and know what to look for. Obviously if you’re watching this guys channel, then you know what to look for.
With cheaper power supplies, you should buy 50%-100% more powerful than needed. If you need 500 Watts….buy a 1000 Watt supply.
😁👍
Even with brand-name supplies will last longer if used below their maximum. So it’s good practice with either cheap or expensive supplies.
If you’re on a tight budget, or just want to tinker around.… buy a cheap supply… rated for more output wattage than you’re actually going to use…And use the videos on this channel to inspect common problems. If the transformer is well-made with copper windings…., everything else can be fixed or upgraded as needed. Or before you even use it.
For a few dollars, and a few minutes of your time…you can upgrade the filter caps and semiconductors. Or salvage them from a quality piece of electronics you have sitting around, or from the dump/e-waste center.
Or simply remove and test the important parts to be sure they are functioning properly.
You can even put the supply under load, like he’s done many times on this channel. But instead of pushing it to failure, test it to the same wattage you’re going to use….. to make sure it won’t explode or catch fire.
This is a wonderful way to learn and enjoy the Hobby of electronics.
Or if you’re not interested in electronics at all… At least your better equipped to diagnose and repair stuff in the future. Which is becoming extremely rare in this day and age. I swear, most of my time is spent pacing back-and-forth in my lab cursing under my breath ….”Jesus Christ nobody knows how to do shit anymore!”
Sorry to keep rambling…. Maybe this will help someone. Dan’s channel is a wonderful source of information for Hobbyists and professionals alike!
But we all know the cat is really calling the shots. 🐈👍
Schemetic awaited...
Did anyone see the marking on the board from the downside? It says that this power supply has capability to deliever 1200W instead of 1000W.
Zespoda na desce je napsáno 1200W místo 1000W @DiodeGoneWild
dík, sem si ani nevšim :). Možná to původně mělo dát 1200W, ale pak tomu asi dali hliníkový vinutí, menší chladiče atd.
Poor Nippon-Chemicon capacitors all dented up. If that is what they really are. The damage China has done to the integrity of the electronics industry is incalculable at this point. If it is a salvaged cap how do you determine its service life from when you put it into use? It is not new now. I guess you just don't worry about it. When flames come shooting out of the case it's done.
Putting a heatsink on the top of to247 package is a complete nonsense. The amount of heat going through the resin is so small that it is always neglected in RTH Jc thermal simulations.
It's just being used as a convenient rigid bar to clamp the transistors onto the case.
@@petehiggins33 I hope that was their thought as well. If not, then that's a problem.
No heatsink compound on it either, so it REALLY wont do much..
Why everyone is 1 day ago :(((.
Patreon supporters
Bifor 😂😂😂
Bifore 😂😂😂🤣🤞
In English, "Chinese" translates to fake.
no facecam?
why is your voice like that dude??