Did a rebuild on my 2009 LGT a couple of years ago. We had rod bearing failure at 108k miles on the car. It was actually a fun rebuild job once I got over the price of the Subaru parts... Good luck.
Thanks, yeah part of it is fun, and individual prices aren't bad at all, there's just a lot of them that add up. For example an OEM piston is only $80, of course I am going with forged ones instead though.
@@rainvillecreative5410 I actually reused my pistons but had to replace crankshaft, put in ACL bearings on mains and rods. I also did something I dont see many people do or talk about. I used a 12mm JDM oil pump from a twin turbo legacy only available over there. It is my attempt to get as much oil pressure as possible to overcome the lack of pressure towards the back of the engine. Also swapped out filter bolts for open ones. All other parts are directly from Subaru. Yeah, they definitely add up.
@@beyondhelp8845 Interesting, I bought an OEM pump for my car, I am hoping it will be OK. I noticed the filtered bolts- those are only an issue if they clog, it is good to keep debris out of the turbo, so I will probably leave mine in.
I realize you had ring land failure on your pistons, but what is the basis for splitting the block? In your case, I understand you wanted to see if the motor had further damage, like on the rods, bearings, journals, etc.. But let’s say I take apart mine and the pistons are ok, what is the basis/reason for splitting the block? And once you do, do you need to hone it or do any type of resurfacing where the crank rides? My car has 212K miles, if I just want to replace the pistons/rings with better ones, do I need to split the block?
It is possible to get the pistons out without splitting the block. In my case, I wanted to check the crank, crank bearings, rods, etc. And of course there could be metal shards left from the cracked piston so it all needs to be cleaned out. I did in fact get the cylinders bored and honed, the crank polished, and the rods reconditioned, which of course requires splitting the block. None of this is necessary, but it's a good idea for longevity. I didn't have the mains line bored, I think this is only really done for high HP builds. Plus my crank wasn't bent, so it was fine. If your engine looks OK, sure, you don't need to split the block, but I would say it's absolutely a good idea unless you're on a tight budget (and if you're on a tight budget, don't build a Subaru motor, lol). Skipping out on boring (or at least honing) the cylinders, checking the rods, checking the crank, and checking the bearings would be foolish if you've got it all apart already, in my opinion. Doing just the rings might not solve anything anyways.
Replying to this comment again- the one you posted most recently is bugged and won't show me the whole thing. Anyways, I kind of assumed you were talking about a turbo motor, perhaps like mine that is being pushed a bit. For an NA that you just want to keep on the road a bit longer, it's not as big of an issue. I'd just make sure the bores look good and there's no damage elsewhere and it'll continue to run fine. It'd still be preferable to hone the cylinders and check the bearings, but not a big deal.
@@rainvillecreative5410 I have the same car/engine as you LGT, except in a wagon version. I was referring earlier to the work I had previously done on my ‘01 Forester n/a. My question was if it was necessary to split the block if I see no damage in my pistons once the motor is removed. Thank you
@@Mike_44 OK, I couldn't see the last half of your comment. Is it necessary? No, it'll continue to run how it did before. Should you? Yes, especially if there is wear on the cylinders, which is almost certain. See how it looks and decide then.
Did a rebuild on my 2009 LGT a couple of years ago. We had rod bearing failure at 108k miles on the car. It was actually a fun rebuild job once I got over the price of the Subaru parts... Good luck.
Thanks, yeah part of it is fun, and individual prices aren't bad at all, there's just a lot of them that add up. For example an OEM piston is only $80, of course I am going with forged ones instead though.
@@rainvillecreative5410 I actually reused my pistons but had to replace crankshaft, put in ACL bearings on mains and rods. I also did something I dont see many people do or talk about. I used a 12mm JDM oil pump from a twin turbo legacy only available over there. It is my attempt to get as much oil pressure as possible to overcome the lack of pressure towards the back of the engine. Also swapped out filter bolts for open ones. All other parts are directly from Subaru. Yeah, they definitely add up.
@@beyondhelp8845 Interesting, I bought an OEM pump for my car, I am hoping it will be OK. I noticed the filtered bolts- those are only an issue if they clog, it is good to keep debris out of the turbo, so I will probably leave mine in.
Awesome videos getting ready to take my motor out my 08 WRX and feel like I can get it done thanks
I realize you had ring land failure on your pistons, but what is the basis for splitting the block? In your case, I understand you wanted to see if the motor had further damage, like on the rods, bearings, journals, etc.. But let’s say I take apart mine and the pistons are ok, what is the basis/reason for splitting the block? And once you do, do you need to hone it or do any type of resurfacing where the crank rides? My car has 212K miles, if I just want to replace the pistons/rings with better ones, do I need to split the block?
It is possible to get the pistons out without splitting the block. In my case, I wanted to check the crank, crank bearings, rods, etc. And of course there could be metal shards left from the cracked piston so it all needs to be cleaned out. I did in fact get the cylinders bored and honed, the crank polished, and the rods reconditioned, which of course requires splitting the block. None of this is necessary, but it's a good idea for longevity. I didn't have the mains line bored, I think this is only really done for high HP builds. Plus my crank wasn't bent, so it was fine.
If your engine looks OK, sure, you don't need to split the block, but I would say it's absolutely a good idea unless you're on a tight budget (and if you're on a tight budget, don't build a Subaru motor, lol). Skipping out on boring (or at least honing) the cylinders, checking the rods, checking the crank, and checking the bearings would be foolish if you've got it all apart already, in my opinion. Doing just the rings might not solve anything anyways.
Replying to this comment again- the one you posted most recently is bugged and won't show me the whole thing.
Anyways, I kind of assumed you were talking about a turbo motor, perhaps like mine that is being pushed a bit. For an NA that you just want to keep on the road a bit longer, it's not as big of an issue. I'd just make sure the bores look good and there's no damage elsewhere and it'll continue to run fine. It'd still be preferable to hone the cylinders and check the bearings, but not a big deal.
@@rainvillecreative5410 I have the same car/engine as you LGT, except in a wagon version. I was referring earlier to the work I had previously done on my ‘01 Forester n/a. My question was if it was necessary to split the block if I see no damage in my pistons once the motor is removed. Thank you
@@Mike_44 OK, I couldn't see the last half of your comment. Is it necessary? No, it'll continue to run how it did before. Should you? Yes, especially if there is wear on the cylinders, which is almost certain. See how it looks and decide then.
@@rainvillecreative5410 Right, will do, thanks
Nah you're good, just reuse the pistons