One of the better tutorial videos on this topic I’ve seen. Not over the top, you don’t assume I know everything you’re taking about. Very understandable. Thank you a bunch!
Mhhh we all love a tight camouflage pattern :) It looks all very convincing and i appreciate in particular that you showed us the route you normally take in order to come up with ideas for your models and how to make them unique and interesting.
I’ve learned so much from your channel, I really look up to you as a modeler & really appreciate the time you put into your uploads. Thanks for everything.
I've watched you for a few years now, seen your modeling skills progress and techniques refined. You are creating detailed, well thought out videos, as well. Excellent work!
Yes Jerry you are a familiar name to me in the comments section by now :) I appreciate all the comments and encouragement you post for me here. Thank you!
I build cars planes and battle ships, I have about 20 armor, half track and truck's on a shelf. This inspiring video will help me find The courage to get building them, great ideas you have. You and night shift are my favorites ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
Always great photography, information, your thought processes and great details, history, and advice! I'm sure we are all grateful for your videos and skills! Thankyou!
Thank you for the great tutorial! An example of how you greatly helped: I just got my first micro sol for Christmas, and I have been trying to figure out how how to use it. So now, I can try your method out on some of my old models. Thank you
Glad to hear my video was helpful :) yes micro sol is key for decal work. Just be careful as when you apply it, you can't adjust the decal position any more or else it might tear the decal. Basically it softens the decal so it melts down into the finish for the "painted-on" look.
I like your less-is-more approach to weathering. The hairspray technique serves its purpose well, especially with the hull red. Great stuff. Thank you.
Thanks! Yes, I'm trying to keep my chipping more toned-down recently, and with HS chipping I can get some convincing chips very easily. The Tamiya LP-18 is a really good red oxide colour.
I'm glad to see another modeling video from you. Nice close camera work and good explanations. I always learn something new which inspires me to go back to the bench to try it out. Keep up the good work!
HNY you too...cant agree more with refs....concerning camos...I saw a Panther commander talking about them...and he said they painted them themselves when needed,some with brush...brooms,mops even thrown on out of whatever they found to mix paint in,...paint which the had, what they had found or even stolen..he knew of tank crews who actually used american olive drab paint they found left by some troops...and even paints from french abandoned shops...been watching a while now and forgot to sub....done keep up good work,im impressed young man.
@@Panzermeister36 So far, all of your advice is working great. For example, I paint insignia myself with masks, as you have shown. They look great and are easy to scratch. For a beginner like me, each model is a test run, so I'm not worried about possible failure. 👌 Thanks Evan !
Nice to see a fellow Canadian on here and your doing great work. I just started doing diarama’s and 1:35 scale tank models and you have helped out tremendously thx and keep up the good work.
Happy New Year Panther , hope you had a good holiday , agree with you about the side skirts , pain in the neck and they just cover up the tracks , got a good reference book from my daughter for Christmas ⛄- German Tanks of WW2 39-45 by David Porter excellent reference guide . Best wishes and stay safe Edward.
Great video as ever, you always manage to inspire me to try new techniques. I have done hairspray chipping a few times now after watching your previous videos
@@Panzermeister36 south alberta. few hours from calgary. i can get the royal and langnickle ones at the local michaels. also, did you move to another modeling area? if so you should make another tour.
Good job and I agree, I use a lot of books and any photos from the internet. I will also, take snaps from Documentaries for dios and such. Keep up the great work. Subbed.
Good video from you! . I also get some good reference books for my models, but in 1:16 scale! I also do some research on UA-cam. War thunder also offers good reference templates, many views from the front, back, side views or in 3/4 perspectives.
Another fantastic tutorial! Thank you. Did you pick up the Das Werk StuG III in 1/16? I hope you did. I am sorta waiting on you to see your version. :)
Looks great but I think the camo was outlined with red brown there seems to be a color difference in the picture and I have seen that type of camo before otherwise awesome job
I like your thoughts on research. The problem I have had all across my modeling career is that 99% of all WWII photos are black and white. When the subject is a 3 color German vehicle you can generally figure out what is dark yellow, which is the camouflage green, and which is the chocolate brown. However, when it is only 2 color; the majority of the time I am having to guess. I call myself narrowing it down by the date. Spring/summer or autumn/winter. But, at the end of the day; it's still a guess. I have tried every way I can think of to further decipher B&W photos, but; I have always come up short. It's a shame that there doesn't seem to be some sort of resource for doing that. Nevertheless, always enjoy your work.
@@Panzermeister36 Thanks. I'll take a look. My son got me a very nice book back in November that gives an overview of every armored vehicle the Germans used in WWII. It has photos (B&W) of every one. There are some really obscure pictures in it.
The time period can also help. When they introduced the standard yellow base colour with the field applied brown and green in early 1943, typically you see just green over the yellow for most units (though the SS kursk StuG I showed earlier in the video with the boxart scheme is brown over green). It's not super common to see both brown and green used together over the base yellow until 1944. And then, in late 1944 and 1945 they painted on the green and brown in the factory in more standard patterns (so vehicles were camouflaged during transport to the units).
@@Panzermeister36 I'm going to keep that in mind. Many of the photos I have are, in fact; dated. The guidelines in your comment will help a great deal. I enjoy the research almost as much as the build. Just almost, though. 🙂
Looking great so far! I too really enjoy copying reference photos. Just wondering if you would check out my 1/35 JagdTiger in which I completely based it off of reference photos, and give me some tips. You can find it on my channel. Thanks, and happy new year!
If you were going to build RFM stug IV kit what factory and OVM layout and unique parts.Have loads of Stug and PzIV spares and A/M.Two sets of steel return rollers in kit,a circle within a circle and same with raised bar across face.
Thanks.I remember a David Byrdren reply to query about Stug IV,it was either “Krupp didn’t know where chassis were going” or didn’t know what they would be used for.That’s why I wondered if there was any factory specific details on Stug IV. Thanks again,if you see Das werk Stug kit it has all usual dragon parts for their Stug G plus zimmerit parts too,and Magic tracks.Retails about £35/40 here.
I'd say you massively overdo the chipping - these tanks had good quality paint and it wouldn't flake off as bad as that. Darker, burnished edges where dust has been worn away might look more appropriate. But I do like your other weathering techniques and the end result always looks good! :-)
One interesting detail you could add is actually Red outlines instead of white outlines on the german cross. According to the linked video this was used later in the war because Ally tank crews actually could identify/target the white outline better. Reference video here: ua-cam.com/video/9Y6oimhSJ7w/v-deo.html
I believe everything military would have the red primer. It would be a requirement for the vehicle to be accepted into the army, same as the camouflage colours. So halftracks and trucks and even antiaircraft guns would be treaded the same way. Civilian vehicles pressed into service, captured enemy equipment...those would not follow the guidelines.
Mr Panzermeister I never seem to be able to follow any cammo lines and get it like on the cammo scheme picture. Glad I started doing anime model kits because then I dont need to deal with all of these hard cammo schemes. I do like the cammolines I get but its hard to do the same as on the picture. I also dont want to waste paint on practising. Maybe I need to stick to allied tanks with no cammo?
You could try sketching it from a picture onto a piece of paper and then cut out some rough masks. You can also draw pencil lines onto the model as a guide and then erase the pencil after. But, there are plenty of interesting vehicles without camouflage too :)
@@Panzermeister36 Thanks, I am just too lazy too practise. But I do have a model witch I only use for testing. I have a lot of Italeri and Vallejo paints witch I can practise with because these paints are not durable and easily scratch. I changed back to solvent based paints and I dont regret it as they are so much better even do they requier you to wear a mask becaus even a spraybooth ain't enough with them. I like Aqueous, Tamiya and real colors they are my go to paints. Lacquers are the best so when im done with these I will go over to only using Tamiya LP, Gaia, Real colors and Mr color.
Great information. May I recommend dumping the background music? It simply adds an unnecessary element of tension to the narration and can be difficult to balance with volume of voice.
Hey panzermeister I have a question for you so early summer I got to hairspray application on my model then we ended up moving and having a kid and I’m just now getting back to finishing my model, will the applied hair spray from several months ago chip off or should I apply another coat for good measure ? Thanks!
You must have better luck with hairspray chipping using laquer paints. I love HS technique but tamiya laquer makes it near impossible for chipping. My thinner better?
I had no issues at all chipping with the new Tamiya LP paints. They actually felt better for chipping than the Tamiya XF acrylics. But I should get more experience with these lacquers before I say for sure...
I have a printer but I still have not yet opened it up yet. I still need some more bits for it. 3D Printimg is something I will start on this year, and I'll cover it in some videos :)
4:54 how many takes did it before that can rolled to exactly where you needed it? Yeah pics can inspire, I did that Stug in Arnhem with the mismatched second skirt with the spots.
I've done a video in the past where I found AK heavy chipping fluid had less working time and produced less in-scale chips. So hairspray is better in my experience.
The little square sandbags are simple old school paper weights. The triangular one is indeed from Tankraft but I'm not sure if it was just a prototype they sent me...it might have never been put into production.
The Tamiya Pz III Ausf.L is a classic kit and is very decent. But if you want something with more details, some PE, not rubber tracks, etc. then the Dragon or RFM kits are good too. For Pz IV, the Dragon kits here are good but again they're more complex than other brands. Border Model might be another good option besides the Tamiya kits.
@@Panzermeister36 thanks for the reply. i’ll probably mess around with the thinning ratios and do some deep cleaning on my airbrush and see if that helps.
Hey Panzermeister would you be interested in doing a collab on my channel? I think military modelers uniquely connect with history and I would like to work with you to highlight that. Thanks for the content, I have been a fan for years!
B&W pictures ironically are great for capturing detail's.Yet using them to recreate an exact colour is too vague,more a statistic.75% see dark yellow,20% yellowy brown,5% Magnolia?Too many variables for colour match exactly.The Haynes Stug III manual has some very HQ interior photo's of stug and crew.
I built interior for RFM stug,then after adding their detail set and two Tresseme chipped dark yellow shades of ral 7028 over oxide( valleho) i only splattered the 'bleached' paint coat(ral 1001) all over rear deck.The kit it a lot lower standard compared to PzIII release.Don't forget shimamoura Alec "Holly" 0.15 scriber.It will make a difference,mine still okay after 3yrs.
I'm not sure why you always bash against using gloss to help with decals.......there is always more than one way to apply decals and so for some it may work and for others maybe not but stop always making that a point in everyone of your videos. We get it.
I bash because people tell me you ALWAYS have to gloss or else you WILL get silvering. I'm showing that it's not true. You can always do the gloss if you want to, it's just a little extra time and effort that, in my experience, is not required.
@@Panzermeister36 as you have stated it depends on the paint used. I actually use multiple methods from gloss to pledge to nothing but the mico-set and sol or just water, but I never discredit a method that others use. 20 years ago everyone dry brushed and oil washes. Now it’s paint chipping, pin washes and micro detailing, so I guess what I am saying things change. I don’t think one method always has to be bashed to promote another or that it’s gospel. You do great work and I would never bash your efforts.
The notion that you have to use a gloss coat to apply decals is a myth and always has been. As long as you apply a smooth and even coat of primer and paint you shouldn't have any problems. Paul budzik made an excellent video about this very topic. Another overlooked aspect of decal application is good adhesion, which is a common reason for silvering. That's why there are so many decal products with adhesive additives (Mr Mark setter, VMS Decal Set & Soften, and others).
Hope everyone had a good holiday and new year :)
Happy new year
Happy New Years!
Happy New Year
Happy New Year for 2022 mate
One of the better tutorial videos on this topic I’ve seen. Not over the top, you don’t assume I know everything you’re taking about. Very understandable. Thank you a bunch!
Thank you for the kind words :)
Mhhh we all love a tight camouflage pattern :) It looks all very convincing and i appreciate in particular that you showed us the route you normally take in order to come up with ideas for your models and how to make them unique and interesting.
Thank you Michael! Some day we still need to have a "crappy camouflage" group build or something. There are so many cool patterns...
I’ve learned so much from your channel, I really look up to you as a modeler & really appreciate the time you put into your uploads. Thanks for everything.
Thank you so much for the comment :) that means a lot to me! I am glad my videos have been enjoyable for you.
I've watched you for a few years now, seen your modeling skills progress and techniques refined. You are creating detailed, well thought out videos, as well. Excellent work!
Yes Jerry you are a familiar name to me in the comments section by now :) I appreciate all the comments and encouragement you post for me here. Thank you!
I build cars planes and battle ships, I have about 20 armor, half track and truck's on a shelf. This inspiring video will help me find
The courage to get building them, great ideas you have. You and night shift are my favorites ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
Always great photography, information, your thought processes and great details, history, and advice! I'm sure we are all grateful for your videos and skills! Thankyou!
Thanks Harald :)
Thank you for the great tutorial!
An example of how you greatly helped:
I just got my first micro sol for Christmas, and I have been trying to figure out how how to use it. So now, I can try your method out on some of my old models. Thank you
Glad to hear my video was helpful :) yes micro sol is key for decal work. Just be careful as when you apply it, you can't adjust the decal position any more or else it might tear the decal. Basically it softens the decal so it melts down into the finish for the "painted-on" look.
Love the camo on the side skirts! Nice clean build, and I can’t wait to see how the rest of the painting and weathering turns out.
Thank you Bruce :)
Always the best Panzer build videos! Thank you and happy new year to you and your family.
As stated before, one of the best!
I get very inspired when i look at Martin Covacs and your videos ! Very informative !! You guys are great ! You guys are born to do what you do!!!!!!
Thank you so much!
I like your less-is-more approach to weathering. The hairspray technique serves its purpose well, especially with the hull red. Great stuff. Thank you.
Thanks! Yes, I'm trying to keep my chipping more toned-down recently, and with HS chipping I can get some convincing chips very easily. The Tamiya LP-18 is a really good red oxide colour.
I'm glad to see another modeling video from you. Nice close camera work and good explanations. I always learn something new which inspires me to go back to the bench to try it out. Keep up the good work!
Thank you!
13:08 - wow!!!! Amazing.
Fascinating… and extremely informative, Evan 👌👌 Many thanks for filming and posting. 👍👍
Thank you Mark!
Very good video about topic how to make good models with references photos. good job college
Found all 3 FB Groups - thx for the suggestion!
Your best video to date.
Well done!
Thank you!
UA-cam videos have tons of great stuff.
Love your work, absolutely top shelf.
Glad you enjoy it!
HNY you too...cant agree more with refs....concerning camos...I saw a Panther commander talking about them...and he said they painted them themselves when needed,some with brush...brooms,mops even thrown on out of whatever they found to mix paint in,...paint which the had, what they had found or even stolen..he knew of tank crews who actually used american olive drab paint they found left by some troops...and even paints from french abandoned shops...been watching a while now and forgot to sub....done keep up good work,im impressed young man.
Great seeing your techniques. Also happy to see you back, posting again. Hope you continue. Thanks. (Ralph)
I will be doing more videos soon :) thank you!
Always love your videos so informative.
I also use several vehicles as inspiration for a single model:) and glad u liked my KV in FSM;)
Great tutorial. I'll try Your way for decals only with Micro Sol fluid. Thanks.
Just make sure you try it out on a test model in case it doesn't work for you 😅 I'm always worried about giving advice that only works for me...
@@Panzermeister36 So far, all of your advice is working great. For example, I paint insignia myself with masks, as you have shown. They look great and are easy to scratch. For a beginner like me, each model is a test run, so I'm not worried about possible failure. 👌 Thanks Evan !
Awesome tutorial. I am going to try this on my Sherman. I’m not as afraid to try it now.
Have fun!
Nice to see a fellow Canadian on here and your doing great work. I just started doing diarama’s and 1:35 scale tank models and you have helped out tremendously thx and keep up the good work.
Thank you Terry :) glad you enjoy my content!
@@Panzermeister36 I’d like to support your page send me a link
Thank you! Here is me patreon link: www.patreon.com/Panzermeister36
*Marvelous work on the paint, 👍👏*
As always great to see your new video.
Thank you :)
Very skilled - thanks.
Nice video. You really pulled a lot of topics together. As usual you did a great job. Outstanding!!
Thank you Rick!
Perfect video, so informative, keep doing this, love the authentic
Thank you :) glad you enjoyed!
Nice pattern. Given me some ideas now . 👍
Happy New Year Panther , hope you had a good holiday , agree with you about the side skirts , pain in the neck and they just cover up the tracks , got a good reference book from my daughter for Christmas ⛄- German Tanks of WW2 39-45 by David Porter excellent reference guide .
Best wishes and stay safe
Edward.
Great video as ever, you always manage to inspire me to try new techniques. I have done hairspray chipping a few times now after watching your previous videos
Thanks! Did you enjoy your HS chipping?
@@Panzermeister36 yes, quite easy to do with good results
I didn't think you could chip leveling thinner that easily. Thank you
One of the fun parts about watching your videos is recognizing the brushes you are using
Interesting...a lot of people ask about them, but I'm never sure if they're available elsewhere in the world. Where do you live?
@@Panzermeister36 south alberta. few hours from calgary. i can get the royal and langnickle ones at the local michaels. also, did you move to another modeling area? if so you should make another tour.
Excellent love your channel
Might have to get this kit,. Never built a dragon kit before
This kit along with Dragon 6320 are the best StuG kits by Dragon. They're very good :)
That's a really cool camouflage pattern. Nice finish so far 👍
Thank you!
Good job and I agree, I use a lot of books and any photos from the internet. I will also, take snaps from Documentaries for dios and such. Keep up the great work. Subbed.
Happy new year
Good video from you! .
I also get some good reference books for my models, but in 1:16 scale! I also do some research on UA-cam. War thunder also offers good reference templates, many views from the front, back, side views or in 3/4 perspectives.
Nice video. Useful information.
Thank you! I'm glad you enjoyed
Great one, Evan. Happy new year 🎉🎉
Thank you! Happy new year :)
Good shit man
Great vid............ 👍👍👍
Another fantastic tutorial! Thank you.
Did you pick up the Das Werk StuG III in 1/16?
I hope you did. I am sorta waiting on you to see your version. :)
Looks great but I think the camo was outlined with red brown there seems to be a color difference in the picture and I have seen that type of camo before otherwise awesome job
I like your thoughts on research. The problem I have had all across my modeling career is that 99% of all WWII photos are black and white. When the subject is a 3 color German vehicle you can generally figure out what is dark yellow, which is the camouflage green, and which is the chocolate brown. However, when it is only 2 color; the majority of the time I am having to guess. I call myself narrowing it down by the date. Spring/summer or autumn/winter. But, at the end of the day; it's still a guess. I have tried every way I can think of to further decipher B&W photos, but; I have always come up short. It's a shame that there doesn't seem to be some sort of resource for doing that. Nevertheless, always enjoy your work.
There are a couple of good groups on Facebook that are purely historical photos in original colour. Also some books for it too!
@@Panzermeister36 Thanks. I'll take a look. My son got me a very nice book back in November that gives an overview of every armored vehicle the Germans used in WWII. It has photos (B&W) of every one. There are some really obscure pictures in it.
The time period can also help. When they introduced the standard yellow base colour with the field applied brown and green in early 1943, typically you see just green over the yellow for most units (though the SS kursk StuG I showed earlier in the video with the boxart scheme is brown over green). It's not super common to see both brown and green used together over the base yellow until 1944. And then, in late 1944 and 1945 they painted on the green and brown in the factory in more standard patterns (so vehicles were camouflaged during transport to the units).
@@Panzermeister36 I'm going to keep that in mind. Many of the photos I have are, in fact; dated. The guidelines in your comment will help a great deal. I enjoy the research almost as much as the build. Just almost, though. 🙂
Excellent video. Beautiful chipping, nice camo. I love that Mr Color Leveling Thinner but man does it stink.
Yeah its great but smells so bad!
Здравствуйте, очень красиво получилось)
Looking great so far! I too really enjoy copying reference photos. Just wondering if you would check out my 1/35 JagdTiger in which I completely based it off of reference photos, and give me some tips. You can find it on my channel. Thanks, and happy new year!
If you were going to build RFM stug IV kit what factory and OVM layout and unique parts.Have loads of Stug and PzIV spares and A/M.Two sets of steel return rollers in kit,a circle within a circle and same with raised bar across face.
All StuG IV were built at Krupp, so they should match that factory. I'm not a Pz IV expert so I don't know the specific details.
Thanks.I remember a David Byrdren reply to query about Stug IV,it was either “Krupp didn’t know where chassis were going” or didn’t know what they would be used for.That’s why I wondered if there was any factory specific details on Stug IV. Thanks again,if you see Das werk Stug kit it has all usual dragon parts for their Stug G plus zimmerit parts too,and Magic tracks.Retails about £35/40 here.
I'd say you massively overdo the chipping - these tanks had good quality paint and it wouldn't flake off as bad as that. Darker, burnished edges where dust has been worn away might look more appropriate. But I do like your other weathering techniques and the end result always looks good! :-)
One interesting detail you could add is actually Red outlines instead of white outlines on the german cross. According to the linked video this was used later in the war because Ally tank crews actually could identify/target the white outline better. Reference video here:
ua-cam.com/video/9Y6oimhSJ7w/v-deo.html
Yeah I put too much hair spray on my hetzer and made this huge chip on the front so I’m kinda sad bout that lol
Would like to see what you think of new 1 16 Stug that has been released! Come back. Where are you?
Hello Brian. I've been busy lately moving to a new apartment.
Great job ,straight forward to the point. Really enjoyed reference material. Did all German vehicles get the red primer colour or just the tanks. ?
I believe everything military would have the red primer. It would be a requirement for the vehicle to be accepted into the army, same as the camouflage colours. So halftracks and trucks and even antiaircraft guns would be treaded the same way. Civilian vehicles pressed into service, captured enemy equipment...those would not follow the guidelines.
👍👍👍👍👍👍
: 0 a new upload, you should do that more..
Yes, I will have more videos soon. I was in a lul for the past few months...
ty for the video. I have 2 questions: Do u use a respirator when painting with the airbrush? and also when using cement glue?
What Is the StuG book you’re looking through? It has some great quality photos
Mr Panzermeister I never seem to be able to follow any cammo lines and get it like on the cammo scheme picture. Glad I started doing anime model kits because then I dont need to deal with all of these hard cammo schemes. I do like the cammolines I get but its hard to do the same as on the picture. I also dont want to waste paint on practising. Maybe I need to stick to allied tanks with no cammo?
You could try sketching it from a picture onto a piece of paper and then cut out some rough masks. You can also draw pencil lines onto the model as a guide and then erase the pencil after. But, there are plenty of interesting vehicles without camouflage too :)
@@Panzermeister36 Thanks, I am just too lazy too practise. But I do have a model witch I only use for testing. I have a lot of Italeri and Vallejo paints witch I can practise with because these paints are not durable and easily scratch. I changed back to solvent based paints and I dont regret it as they are so much better even do they requier you to wear a mask becaus even a spraybooth ain't enough with them. I like Aqueous, Tamiya and real colors they are my go to paints. Lacquers are the best so when im done with these I will go over to only using Tamiya LP, Gaia, Real colors and Mr color.
Great information. May I recommend dumping the background music? It simply adds an unnecessary element of tension to the narration and can be difficult to balance with volume of voice.
Looks great - what psi did you did the camo at?
Should say on screen but around 12-13 psi.
dear friend, what compressor and airbrush do you use when painting models?
Hey panzermeister I have a question for you so early summer I got to hairspray application on my model then we ended up moving and having a kid and I’m just now getting back to finishing my model, will the applied hair spray from several months ago chip off or should I apply another coat for good measure ? Thanks!
You must have better luck with hairspray chipping using laquer paints. I love HS technique but tamiya laquer makes it near impossible for chipping. My thinner better?
I had no issues at all chipping with the new Tamiya LP paints. They actually felt better for chipping than the Tamiya XF acrylics. But I should get more experience with these lacquers before I say for sure...
Скажите пожалуйста,аэрографом сложно пользоваться? Хочу купить в будущем,но боюсь испортить))😅
Great and useful video!!!
by the way do you have a 3d printer and if you have where do you take 3d models or where do you make them?
I have a printer but I still have not yet opened it up yet. I still need some more bits for it. 3D Printimg is something I will start on this year, and I'll cover it in some videos :)
4:54 how many takes did it before that can rolled to exactly where you needed it? Yeah pics can inspire, I did that Stug in Arnhem with the mismatched second
skirt with the spots.
I spent about 5 minutes rolling that can : P glad you noticed how tricky it would be!
Do you prefer hairspray or something like AK Heavy Chipping Fluid, and why?
I've done a video in the past where I found AK heavy chipping fluid had less working time and produced less in-scale chips. So hairspray is better in my experience.
@@Panzermeister36 thank you
Hey there nIce work! Where did you get the bean bags and the leather triangular prop? I looked on the tankraft website but didnt see anything. Thanks
The little square sandbags are simple old school paper weights. The triangular one is indeed from Tankraft but I'm not sure if it was just a prototype they sent me...it might have never been put into production.
Is the new Tamiya paint solvent based?
Yes as lacquers they are solvent based.
Can you recommend a good oob panzer 3 or 4 kit? So far all i have is Tamiya's Tiger 1 (35146) and Panzer IV (35096).
The Tamiya Pz III Ausf.L is a classic kit and is very decent. But if you want something with more details, some PE, not rubber tracks, etc. then the Dragon or RFM kits are good too.
For Pz IV, the Dragon kits here are good but again they're more complex than other brands. Border Model might be another good option besides the Tamiya kits.
hey Panzermeister, what PSI do you use for spraying the camouflage? i can never get mine just right.
Hmm, probably 12-15 or so. But it depends on your airbrush, paint, where you live, etc.
@@Panzermeister36 thanks for the reply. i’ll probably mess around with the thinning ratios and do some deep cleaning on my airbrush and see if that helps.
Good luck! It takes experience but you'll figure it out ☺️
@@Panzermeister36 haha thanks, i've been doing scale models for around 6 years but ive always been mediocre at airbrushing!
Hey Panzermeister would you be interested in doing a collab on my channel? I think military modelers uniquely connect with history and I would like to work with you to highlight that. Thanks for the content, I have been a fan for years!
Hi
Noooo!!! How soon until your next video?
I'll have one next weekend too!
B&W pictures ironically are great for capturing detail's.Yet using them to recreate an exact colour is too vague,more a statistic.75% see dark yellow,20% yellowy brown,5% Magnolia?Too many variables for colour match exactly.The Haynes Stug III manual has some very HQ interior photo's of stug and crew.
I built interior for RFM stug,then after adding their detail set and two Tresseme chipped dark yellow shades of ral 7028 over oxide( valleho) i only splattered the 'bleached' paint coat(ral 1001) all over rear deck.The kit it a lot lower standard compared to PzIII release.Don't forget shimamoura Alec "Holly" 0.15 scriber.It will make a difference,mine still okay after 3yrs.
lmao the guy from the magazine literally copied Wilder kv1
That’s me:) and i also used ideas from KV by Pablo Perez;)
I saw you post on Facebook about the article and it looked so cool I had to buy the magazine :)
@@Panzermeister36 thanks!:)
I'm not sure why you always bash against using gloss to help with decals.......there is always more than one way to apply decals and so for some it may work and for others maybe not but stop always making that a point in everyone of your videos. We get it.
I bash because people tell me you ALWAYS have to gloss or else you WILL get silvering. I'm showing that it's not true.
You can always do the gloss if you want to, it's just a little extra time and effort that, in my experience, is not required.
@@Panzermeister36 as you have stated it depends on the paint used. I actually use multiple methods from gloss to pledge to nothing but the mico-set and sol or just water, but I never discredit a method that others use. 20 years ago everyone dry brushed and oil washes. Now it’s paint chipping, pin washes and micro detailing, so I guess what I am saying things change. I don’t think one method always has to be bashed to promote another or that it’s gospel. You do great work and I would never bash your efforts.
The notion that you have to use a gloss coat to apply decals is a myth and always has been. As long as you apply a smooth and even coat of primer and paint you shouldn't have any problems. Paul budzik made an excellent video about this very topic. Another overlooked aspect of decal application is good adhesion, which is a common reason for silvering. That's why there are so many decal products with adhesive additives (Mr Mark setter, VMS Decal Set & Soften, and others).