I built a three section top rail mast, but I raised it up next to the gable end of my house, using a pully mounted on an S hook attached to an eye screw at the peak of the gable. I dug a 6 inch post hole in the ground about 2 and a half feet deep, and sunk a 2 inch pipe about 36 inches long in the hole, then filled the hole around the pipe with concrete. The center of the hole is 2 feet from the wall under the peak of the gable. The concrete took about a day to cure. The pulley made it easy to raise the mast while my son steadied the base of the mast and placed it into the pipe. Then I attached 2 foot standoffs at the 10 and 20 foot level of the mast and mounted them on the gable wall. This is very sturdy, but it hasn't been through a storm season yet, so we'll see. In the meantime, I have a half wave verticle end fed 10m antenna mounted at the top. So far, so good. KJ5DUL
I have a top rail mast that's been out in the weather for about 8 years now. Here's my design: My top rail mast design requires 1 8 foot 4x4, 2 lag bolts, 2 top rail sections, 1 top rail fence cap with hole and paracord. Bury about 3 feet of the 4x4. On the end opposite the top rail cap, drill 2 holes in the top rail near the end of the top rail about 8 inches apart. Assemble the 2 top rail sections and thread the paracord through the top rail cap hole. While laying on the ground grab the end with the 2 holes and lag bolt the bottom hole in the top rail to the 4x4 about 3 or so feet above ground. Get get a couple of guys to place the mast into the vertical position and drive in the top lag bolt. No trees in your yard? Double the recipe for any dimension you need! Now you have TILT OVER MAST(S)! Pull up any kind of antenna you like! 73 de KE2YK!
I built this last year with pvc pipe going another 5 feet up so the dipole wouldn’t contact metal and it made it a 35 feet mast. I’m so glad I found your channel 73 from KQ4GDB
ive had good luck with a 30ft telescopic flagpole for wire and vhf antennas, working alone. For pipe, fiberglass or wood, a few more bits, the first two cemented into the ground and you have a tilt over mast. For stronger masts, scrap yards are a good start. In the oil patch, drill pipe and fiberglass tubing and sucker rod are great makings.
For portable use I've been using a 40 foot Spiderbeam mast. I have a N9TAX roll up J pole at the top and a linked inverted V for 40/30/20 meters at about 34 feet at the same time.
I helped make a 30 foot mast with 16 ga fence vertical post pipes and 2- 8 foot 1 1/8" top rail pipes (1 .25" galv pipe are stronger but cost more) plumbed, spaced, pounded into ground, constructed like an ice fishing tip up. Adjust height for growth under pivoting mast, bolt across bottom area through all three tubes. , bolt through top area through all. A 1 inch galvanized post straps across the bottom prevents mast tipping passed center, bolts across top and bottom are final lock. Guy as usual
There is a toprail spec that is 21 feet long and they have the bell ends so with just 2 of them you have 42 feet minus a few inches and 3 of them is 63 feet minus about a foot. The top rail is about $50 each, but it's a quick way to get some height in a hurry. You can put one bolt through each bell end to secure it, but the weight of the rail on top will push down and help hold the sections together. Put your efforts into proper guying for such a mast, but it's quite impressive to get that kind of height so quick.
Hey Dave, Great vid and thanks for taking the time and effort to show the rest of us how to do this 30' mast from Home Depot parts! I'm going to try it out! And reading all the comments, there's some really great ideas from those as well, love it! The internet at its best!!! Thanks Dave!!!
Liking the Western Electric 500 in the background. 👍 Thank you for all you do for Amateur Radio Sir. We're pretty close in age, but you're still my Elmer. Thanks Dave 73's from Big D
great vid as always.. i used the same pipe but with 3 different inside dia. drilled holes to 6 in from top of each and bolt. no issues with wind. lots of trees to buffer wind. had 20 40 80 wired also aided as guy 20 inverted 40 and 80 were horizontal
I raise and lower several of my 50 foot steel masts in just a few minutes. I use an earth anchor on the bottom consisting of a 24 inch deep hole. I have three 2x4's (center one being 2 inch lower than outer ones) + 1/4 inch steel bolt. The 50 foot mast slides into the center of the 2x4 sandwich and simply rotates up and down while the bottom is held in place by the 2x4 anchor. Next to the first hole, I dig a second hole 4 feet deep and insert one 4x4. I can then use 2 conduit clamps to fasten the steel mast to the 4x4. No guys needed. I've had these in place for over 10 years in extremely severe weather.
You got a diagram for this somewhere? I would like to do a 60' in my backyard without guys but I'm not sure how to go about it. A tilting mast is the direction I would like to go, I just don't want to have guys to trip over.
@@sixcolors4226 I don't have a diagram - just the text description I gave. If you don't want to DIY... You can also purchase a tilting base plate from DX Engineering. I also have one of those which has been fantastic. I use the DXE plate for my Hustler 6 BTV vertical. I did a 6 ft vertical hole with steel rebar and 5 bags of concrete. Again, no guys.
I love this! This will be perfect for our camping trips (1-2 weeks), as well as for a scout project. Many thanks to the viewer that submitted this. Outstanding.
To repeat an earlier post: The stakes are concrete form stakes - that will get you to the right area. Same for the plastic caps. Highly recommended in any event. I'll recommend U-bolts instead of the hose clamps. Stronger, no sharp bits, easier to install. EMT has all sorts of fittings to look at that may work out better than shelf brackets to hold the pully. Plus things like turnbuckles and elbos and more U-bolts could be on the table. Instead of jam nuts, there are various forms of lock nuts or even plain nuts set with Locktite (vibration is not really a problem like in an automotive application) one could also use.
Why not just make the stakes out of #4 or #5 rebar cut down to whatever length you need? They sell it in 10 and 20 ft lengths at Home Depot and even with the 20 ft lengths, it doesn't really take that long to cut it down to size with a hacksaw to fit into your car if you don't have a utility trailer to to carry a long piece...
@@CurmudgeonExtraordinaire Some places carry precut rebar too. The only question that comes to mind, is the texture of the rebar good enough to keep the guy wires from slipping? Those holes on the stakes that you can add keeper pins are pretty handy.
@@ronboe6325 -- Bend the rebar until it has a greater than 90 degree angle "hook" on the end... Or if you want to get fancy, heat it up and bend a small loop in the end... Or weld a loop made out of #3 rebar (3/8") onto the end... The last suggesting is probably the easiest though... Take a piece of #3 rebar about 18" long... Put it halfway in two pieces of sched-40 steel pipe that are each around 3 ft long (so that you have plenty of leverage)... Pull the ends of the pipe together, thus bending the rebar into a U shape... Adjust the shape as necessary so that the distance between the legs of the U are the same size as the rebar you are going to be driving into the ground as stakes... Weld it together such that there is a couple of inches of loop that you can use to tie your guy wire / rope to... Welding rebar is easy since it is so thick that you don't have to worry about burning through it like you would with an 18-gauge tubing or sheet metal...
@@CurmudgeonExtraordinaire Dang good ideas (I'm not fond of nails sticking out of stakes) but I don't have a welder, don't know how to weld so personally I'd take the lazy way out and buy the stakes. But if I did weld, had a gas torch, then I'd probably have an anvil and I'd fab up something for sure.
@@ronboe6325 -- Just bend it more than 90 degrees then... It's not like there is ever going to be enough force on it to straighten out the bend... I'm not a *great* welder, but I can make thick pieces of metal stick together with just an old AC stick welding machine (Lincoln AC-225)... Now, welding up a tank so that it doesn't leak is not something that I've been that good at over the years... But for thick stuff that it doesn't matter if the weld is not perfect? Yeah, I can do that... I think I paid less than $100 for my Lincoln off of someone on CraigsList...
I used same Lowes Chain link TOP rail , two of them for 20 ft. but, it was self standing, I drove strong Fence Post farmer use, and tied to fence post with 4, 5 hose clamp. I put 145Mhz antenna on top of it. AG6JU
I made a 30' mast with 3 sections of top rail. If you use the top rail couplings in conjunction with the slip fit it makes a strong joint. I used two sets of guyed wires and assembled this on a small section of top rail driven in the ground.
I have a Diamond CP22E on top of two top rails, and the only guying I used is a bracket attached to my eave. It's seen some pretty decent wind a time or two. I'd probably add additional guying if I were to insert another 10 foot section, but I'm hitting repeaters 50+ miles away- so I don't see the point in going higher.
About to watch your Video - will just suggest the way i held the mast from slipping & or rising . used those Cement Blocks ,(forgot the term lol) w/ large two large holes . Had one other person hold their foot on it as well , had placed PVC pipe in ground with quickcrete to slip in EMT pipe X4 of them ,yes they looked funny and leaning a bit , i call these masts my Lazy Hillbilly Loop , have 4 in semi- square formation LOL . Yes have lost some masts to wind but have used them since 2014 with great success supporting over 530ft of 12ga wire LOL - i figure you have to try it to see if it Fails Big Time ! LOL Now seriously i do recommend guying for faint of Heart Hams - and have added some tree support but i will continue to repair and use them cause it Works - Love your info and sending you Many Blessings from ,"the Hillbilly Ham" W5HEH . 73 PS these masts go up 40+ FT !
Nice DIY idea and build and I have plenty of scrap tubing from car canopies that are swaged on one end, so this is a viable idea for easily raising various wire antennas. For my permanent 6-wire, all-band, cage vertical (TC2M that requires no tuner), I used a 46' telescoping fiberglass mast available from DX Engineering that free-ships in 7-foot sections, for $250. Weighing only 32.5 pounds, it is easily raised without any assistance. If you're not a basketball center, a stepladder is required. No need to slit the sections because hose clamps hold the sections in place. An old cantilever pool umbrella base and four concrete blocks stabilize the base of the mast while raising. The mast can then be guyed with guy ring kits from DXE as desired from mid-point and/or higher up. As is, it is almost freestanding. AD6AE
As to making a tiltable mast, go to a Farm store and purchase a Gate hinge. Attach one side of the hinge to the bottom of your mast pipe ! On the other side of the hinge, ( @ 90 °) purchase all thread of the appropriate size, to fit the holes in the hinge, and choose how long you want the all thread, and attatch appropriate nuts to top and bottom of the hinge, to secure the all thread to the hinge ! As it will be pushed, or driven into the ground, as your anchor point ! Attach your guy wires and antenna and lift into place ! Makes for cheap and easy tilt over mast, as when you are done, you can simply pull up the all thread, and be on your way, leaving only tiny holes in the Terra Firma ! Great for POTA ! 👍😉 Hope that makes sense !
These EMT long masts are raised by a hand operated winch. just mount a pulley to the underside of the overhang of your house or building. Mount the winch at the ground level. Look for a winch that will lock both when raising and lowering the mast. Some inexpensive winches will not lock when lowering. I purchased my winch on E-bay checking to insure that the winch locks in both directions. My system has been in use for 5 years. I have a heavy-duty 40 foot push up mast made from fiberglass. p.s. I use to use EMT metal tubing, but I felt it affected antenna radiation patterns with my phased arrays. 73 .....W7OSS
I took a 10' fence top rail, a 10' piece of fiberglass pole saw handle. Fit them together and put through bolts through. I pounded a 7' t post 4' into the ground. Used a dish tripod slipped over the t post. I then attached my 10' tri band antenna to the top. With a friend we tipped it up and slipped it into the tripod and over the t post. Staked the tripod down. So far so good with up to 40 mph winds. Works great
I love listening to you Dave. You are so professional and calmly and smartly remind everyone about safety along the way. This is such a wonderful project. I just need a larger piece of property so I can start playing with stuff like this.
Cost of OSHA certified hard hat at Home Depot:$7.50. Cost of getting a new haircut after skull surgery : $20.00. And the hard hat lasts a damn long time. Please...
Here's a bit of an update on Home Depot prices as of Aug. 2024. I priced all the parts for this project at Home Depot today and the total bill came in north of $300. As a comparison, I stopped by a business that builds horse barns, cattle pens, and rail fencing and asked if they could sell me a 30 foot long, 3 inch diameter pipe? Their answer, Yes. The cost would be $80. Moral of the story, keep your eyes open for every opportunity! There are alternatives to the big box stores! Now...... it's time to do some engineering work and get that 30 foot mast into the air, with antenna of course :o)
YES. The calculations should take this into effect. But consider mounting on an balanced outrigger mast or upgrading your design to a bobtail or dual Yagi beam so the antennae are out of alignment with the mast.
Dave, I find EMT and rail too heavy, Home Depot had Closet rail pipe, much easier to work with . then we bought there conduit pipe straps that fit around perfectly add screws. Or use real antenna mast. strong and light.
A ten foot piece of top rail is like $15, you can buy 2 and have a 20 foot mast thats quite sturdy for pretty cheap. A telescopic tv mast is much more expensive.
@@GoonyMclinuxI just bought a 25ft metal telescoping mast for $140 shipped to my door. Very, very strong. Came with guying rings. By the time you buy all of the materials here you are probably pushing near $100. Plus it isn't telescoping. Plus your time, and potential screw ups. For the $50 I'd just get something already built.
@@bassmanjr100 If it works for you it works. I use painters poles with 8 extra feet of fiberglass rod hoseclamped on, total cost is probably $60 for one. Mine recently withstood high winds from a near miss tornado no issue, trees were down but cheap azz masts survived. 🤣 But the fence top rail is so strong I use them for small yagis and such also. Here its like $20 a section.
I went 20 foot by sliding 1.25" EMT inside of 1.5" EMT and securing it with screws. Not sure if you could slide this into 1.75 EMT and go up 30 feet or not.
Hi Dave, nice 30 ft mast. I purchased a mast by Blue sky mast company in Florida. The Al1series mast system in really enjoy. Ask for the reconditioned al1 series mast. The mast is 9 3ft sections made of aluminum and a 5 ft tripod to hold up with 4 guyed wires. Check it out on line. Can be put up and taken down by 1 person about 15 minutes. I was made for the military.😊 let me know what you think? Ask for "Charles" in sales if he still works there. Ask for the "reconditioned al1 series don't need the crank to raise up very light and portable like for field day. 😊 Have used for 5 years no rusting part in the Philippines.
@@jameyevans291300.00 for the reconditioned mast system which is really just a discontinued model but still new. Been using it for 5 yrs ,3 yrs in the Philippines. 3 ft sectional. 2in OD . Military rated. I can take it down when bad weather is coming in 10-15 min . Their is a video of al1 blue sky on you tube I think. Good luck!😊
Am I missing something because per your drawing, how do you get 1-3/8" top rail inside 1-1/4" EMT? Stainless steel hardware with nyloc nuts might be a better choice than just steel and jam nuts.
Some pipe is specified by inside dimension, some by outside dimension. 1.25 EMT has an actual ID of 1.38 inches. Top rail has an actual OD of 1.32 inches.
Pipe and tube are measured differently - pipe is measured by ID, tube is measured by OD. It's weird. Then, there's top rail.. LOL - took me a while to figure this out too.
Hi Dave, I did the same thing but recreated an antenna system used by the military from a TM from 1953. I believe it is a AS/GRA 4/12 antenna kit. The military runs it in the air as a 50 ft mast system. I use it as a 30ft mast system. The actual manual is TM 11-2651, and another manual TM 11-5815-334-10 Mast AB-155/U Erection. I use all surplus parts , and some I created from Home Depot. I use aluminum cammo net poles, 8 poles are 29.5 ft tall and they use 3 guy rings per pole at different levels of the pole. 4 guy lines per ring. So a total of 12 guy lines per mast. Beings it is a military system it must withstand high winds in the field when erected. At the base of the pole they drive in the ground what they call a swivel stake. Very expensive to buy, I made them out of the concrete form stakes from Home Depot. I take square tube 1/4 in thick, cut 1 side out to make a U if you will, weld a 6 in piece of 1 1/2 in dia tube on the bottom of the U, then drill through the 2 sides and put a bolt through the U with the concrete stake. The U will be able to be laid over so you can drive the stake in the ground. You put the mast on the tube of the swivel stake, and when the pole is being walked up, the swivel pivots with the mast. The pulley is mounted to the top guy ring and can be used for running single wire virticle wire or dipole, or end fed. I have 3 30 ft masts in the air in this fashion and it has been fantastic. First time I did it was during my first field day during the Covid lock down. I ran a 80m off center fed dipole, and it was great. And the masts have with stood 60-80 mph winds. I also use the military comm wire for my antennas, I was able to get 1000 feet of double strand wire on the spool for 47.00 at the surplus store, and I split it down to single strand. And with the old surplus reel machines for the AN/GRA-4 antenna system, I am able to have 200 ft of wire on each one. I just reel out as much wire as I need from my balun, lock down the reel and run the reel up the mast on the halyards ( pulley’s) and check my antenna with my rig stick and I’m on the air. I have told hams of all the surplus I use to create my antennas and the old books and manuals I use, the response I normally get is I never thought about that, or where is that surplus store at? Hope this is helpful as far as how I get my antennas in the air. Where I live In Texas, most of our big trees are by power lines. Jeff KI5HGT
We have done a TON of projects using 13 Gauge Fence rails 10.5 feet long. I have my 12 and 15 yr General Class daughters Mig weld them up. We just weld ours up using 70s2 or 70s6, although Kiswel has some wire specifically for galvanized material. We then spot the welds with Cold Glavinized paint. We also put the pole ends with some rebar in a 5 Gallon bucket with concrete in them. Thats what we have done. Just need to pick your guy wire or rope points. Works Great.
Now that i watched your Video, i have seen a Vid. on a Fellow Ham who overlapped PVC on the outside of Top rail pipes at the joints , for added strength and it looked pretty strong. We only get strong winds ,(about 35-45mph), very seldom . I would have others look at the Steel TV Masts for light duty or even medium duty ,(wire or Light Hex Beams w/ very small rotors if needed ), guyed naturally . Fortunately we do not have next door neighbors except occasional Cow or Coyote, Bob Cat, Deer Etc . to consider . Cost has been the major consideration for my installation . Wonder if outside overlap is a stronger and shorter frugal solution . Keep these coming Thank You and 73
Drilling holes through the tubing weakens it significantly. Drill one hole just below the end point of the fence rail point in the emt. Placing 2 of the three guys pre measured for length lets you pull the mast to vertical using the third guy. A much simpler pivot point can be made with galvanized or black iron plumbing parts. A tee, and three pre threaded pipe sections of appropriate length. Nylock nuts are probably cheaper than jam nuts.
5:57 The SKU you show is for an 18" stake, according to Home Depot. Kinda makes sense, considering the '18' at the end. 6:14 A little? The 36" stakes they show now cost $94.96 for 10, which seems to be the only way they are sold. That's $9.50 each, almost double what you show. Let's go, Brandon! What I want is a 20' free-standing mast, no guy wires. Any suggestions?
I think you'll need to go with something like Rohn 25 with a good concrete base. Gonna cost you. A 20' mast made of two pieces of concrete fence top rail with guys will be much less expensive. I guess the price of the stakes varies a lot with time, depending on the cost of steel. I've collected quite a few.
Living in Arkansas, I envy people with clay soil. I lived in Missouri long ago and didn't realize how well I had it. Arkansas is full of rocks and would practically have to drill to get a rod three feet down.
need to alter this plan. very sturdy by using three top fence rails for”each section” bottom is one full length the cut a second one at the 1/3 point. then just add full length till you reach 30 or 40 feet long. then very thin conduit to protect the coax ( other wires). about the six foot point using square steel tubing only need a foot lone here and another one on the “bottom end. sink into concrete two four in channels or more of said tubing down in at least four feet but need to stick out just over the six foot mark. this makes a sound base. and tilt up point.
Many field days we have used a Simple extended ladder to push up a tall pole. This could’ve easily pushed a 30 foot mast up in just a couple of minutes with three or four people helping out.
Vertical mast won't affect horizontal wire antennas, and vertical mast won't affect vertical antennas mounted on top of them. If you go running a vertical wire antenna next to the mast, then yes it will affect it.
Those are nominal dimensions. Some pipe is specified by inside dimension, some by outside dimension. 1.25 EMT has an actual ID of 1.38 inches. Top rail has an actual OD of 1.32 inches.
never use the nominal dimensions. always use real specifications. there's a good reason the plans call for "thin-walled EMT" specifically. many-a-house would be out of square if the assumption was made that a 2X4 is exactly 2" by 4".
Those are nominal dimensions. Some pipe is specified by inside dimension, some by outside dimension. 1.25 EMT has an actual ID of 1.38 inches. Top rail has an actual OD of 1.32 inches.
I slid it in my trucks back window and rested the end on the dash. Tie a flag on the other end and off you go. If you don’t have a truck fond a friend with one.
? Just use a painters pole or a pole extension for painting or the fiberglass poles for trimming trees. They’re 30 feet, plus they are telescoping ,meaning you can raise it lower it by standing on the ground. These polls cost between 80 to 120 dollars for 30 feet. next thing you need is the guidewires or rope, it’s that simple 😉
A friend of mine uses a aluminum extension ladder to support his Tri-Bander during field day. He has some really serious stakes that he drives in the ground. They look like they are built for a "circus" tent. Two of the guys are pre-measured just like Dave did so a few people pull on the third rope while several people lift and tilt the ladder to the verticle position. I not sure, but I think it's a 20' ladder...
I used 3 - 10 foot lengths of chain link fence top rail to make a 30 foot mast. I have it mounted on the front of my mobile home with a couple of brackets with a 2 meter vertical on it. Been there for years with no guy wires at all. I put it up all by myself.
I remember back in the early 70's my family decided to install a 50ft telescopic mast, the one we used was from ROHN I believe. I took 6 persons to raise, it was fully extended when we did it, my mom was a CB operator and bought a 2 element PDL antenna and wanted it on the top. took 6 persons to raise it to full height Was really surprised with all the work we did to do it
Forget the mast. That black rotary phone is the bom'diggity. I have one but it's a color I can't identify. Black in the Western Electric Ma'Bell looks the best. Be careful of the party-lines. KO4EMH
If you want to make the whole procedure much safer use 4-way guying rather than three way. Much safer. Triangular mast is not the same as round pipe, and saving money on a single set of guy lines is not worth the trade off.
Army TM11-5820-348-15 has instructions on how to raise a mast by yourself. Years ago, when I had an RC-292 antenna I used to raise it using the TM instructions with no trouble. Now thaat I am over 80 years old, I will not attempt that !
Dyneema works well. It's used a lot for safety lines and mast rigging on sailboats. Very UV resistant. It does tend to permanently elongate under heavy stress over time. This answered my dilemma as I have a ring of tall hills around me.
the tolerances of that lap joint aren't tight enough to stack up three times and retain strength. Your mast would look more like a keel if you tried to make it out of top rail alone. That is to say, it would bend into a C immediately. You could add a sheet metal shim inside each joint to improve the fit, but it's kind of janky and unreliable to use shims as an integral component like that.
@tissuepaper9962 I can see your point. There is no friction or compression fit of the inner tubing in this instance, as a matter of fact there is not an interference fit of any kind. I would think that this would allow the pole to untrue itself, but I guess that it won't because it didn't. LoL 73
Dave, I was interested because Home Depot is a parts source. You lost me when you said “drill press” and “welded.” I don’t have those tools or know anyone who does.
You can use a hammer and a punch to make a place for the drill bit to sit in. And look up the mfj-1903 tilt over base. Easy to replicate with C channel, few bolts, few pins.
If you don't have a welder, you can make that same piece with threaded steel pipe and a tee (either black pipe or galvanized). You don't really need a drill press either. Just take a punch and put a dimple in the pipe to keep the drill bit from walking.
Don't pound on anything with a mull, use an SDS+, SDS Max or an air hammer someone in your club must have one! SDS hammer drills also can install an 8 foot 5/8" ground in 15 seconds down below grass level It is not so much not using paracord, but instead only not dynamic rope but do use static rope like engine start rope which can be purchased in spools cheaply and will not stretch even a quarter inch or rappelling human loading lines they can stretch up to 10%! I have several start rope spools of 20 hp mowers those are 5/16th" thick and very strong. ________________________________________________________________________________ Looking for the design plans for the Canadian Marconi Company wooden crank up tower. Those can reach up to 90' but most were under 40'. They were used by the British, Canadian and United States militaries into the 1980's.
This is stupid from start to finish! Go to a fence company and you can get 30’ lengths of frnce post pipe up to 1/4” thickness. With one of your guy stakes you can tie the base off and stand the tower by yourself. I am guessing this tower is only for a 2m ground plane or maybe a 80m long wire.(no rotor or multi element beam)
I built a three section top rail mast, but I raised it up next to the gable end of my house, using a pully mounted on an S hook attached to an eye screw at the peak of the gable. I dug a 6 inch post hole in the ground about 2 and a half feet deep, and sunk a 2 inch pipe about 36 inches long in the hole, then filled the hole around the pipe with concrete. The center of the hole is 2 feet from the wall under the peak of the gable. The concrete took about a day to cure. The pulley made it easy to raise the mast while my son steadied the base of the mast and placed it into the pipe. Then I attached 2 foot standoffs at the 10 and 20 foot level of the mast and mounted them on the gable wall. This is very sturdy, but it hasn't been through a storm season yet, so we'll see. In the meantime, I have a half wave verticle end fed 10m antenna mounted at the top. So far, so good. KJ5DUL
I have a top rail mast that's been out in the weather for about 8 years now. Here's my design: My top rail mast design requires 1 8 foot 4x4, 2 lag bolts, 2 top rail sections, 1 top rail fence cap with hole and paracord. Bury about 3 feet of the 4x4. On the end opposite the top rail cap, drill 2 holes in the top rail near the end of the top rail about 8 inches apart. Assemble the 2 top rail sections and thread the paracord through the top rail cap hole. While laying on the ground grab the end with the 2 holes and lag bolt the bottom hole in the top rail to the 4x4 about 3 or so feet above ground. Get get a couple of guys to place the mast into the vertical position and drive in the top lag bolt. No trees in your yard? Double the recipe for any dimension you need! Now you have TILT OVER MAST(S)! Pull up any kind of antenna you like! 73 de KE2YK!
I built this last year with pvc pipe going another 5 feet up so the dipole wouldn’t contact metal and it made it a 35 feet mast.
I’m so glad I found your channel
73 from KQ4GDB
73 Ike
ive had good luck with a 30ft telescopic flagpole for wire and vhf antennas, working alone. For pipe, fiberglass or wood, a few more bits, the first two cemented into the ground and you have a tilt over mast. For stronger masts, scrap yards are a good start. In the oil patch, drill pipe and fiberglass tubing and sucker rod are great makings.
For portable use I've been using a 40 foot Spiderbeam mast. I have a N9TAX roll up J pole at the top and a linked inverted V for 40/30/20 meters at about 34 feet at the same time.
A no-weld option to the rebar "T" would be 3 iron pipe nipples-12" or longer and a t connector
I helped make a 30 foot mast with 16 ga fence vertical post pipes and 2- 8 foot 1 1/8" top rail pipes (1 .25" galv pipe are stronger but cost more) plumbed, spaced, pounded into ground, constructed like an ice fishing tip up. Adjust height for growth under pivoting mast, bolt across bottom area through all three tubes. , bolt through top area through all.
A 1 inch galvanized post straps across the bottom prevents mast tipping passed center, bolts across top and bottom are final lock. Guy as usual
What a beautiful mast! And thanks for the explanation how to build it!
There is a toprail spec that is 21 feet long and they have the bell ends so with just 2 of them you have 42 feet minus a few inches and 3 of them is 63 feet minus about a foot. The top rail is about $50 each, but it's a quick way to get some height in a hurry. You can put one bolt through each bell end to secure it, but the weight of the rail on top will push down and help hold the sections together. Put your efforts into proper guying for such a mast, but it's quite impressive to get that kind of height so quick.
Hey Dave, Great vid and thanks for taking the time and effort to show the rest of us how to do this 30' mast from Home Depot parts! I'm going to try it out! And reading all the comments, there's some really great ideas from those as well, love it! The internet at its best!!! Thanks Dave!!!
Liking the Western Electric 500 in the background. 👍
Thank you for all you do for Amateur Radio Sir.
We're pretty close in age, but you're still my Elmer. Thanks Dave
73's from Big D
That's not a WeCo.
It's Stromberg Carlson.
great vid as always.. i used the same pipe but with 3 different inside dia. drilled holes to 6 in from top of each and bolt. no issues with wind. lots of trees to buffer wind. had 20 40 80 wired also aided as guy 20 inverted 40 and 80 were horizontal
Dave, when in the video you say you replaced the 1/4 inch eye bolts you specified 5/8 inch! I think you meant 5/16 inch, not 5/8 inch Ray. W8ISK
I raise and lower several of my 50 foot steel masts in just a few minutes. I use an earth anchor on the bottom consisting of a 24 inch deep hole. I have three 2x4's (center one being 2 inch lower than outer ones) + 1/4 inch steel bolt. The 50 foot mast slides into the center of the 2x4 sandwich and simply rotates up and down while the bottom is held in place by the 2x4 anchor. Next to the first hole, I dig a second hole 4 feet deep and insert one 4x4. I can then use 2 conduit clamps to fasten the steel mast to the 4x4. No guys needed. I've had these in place for over 10 years in extremely severe weather.
You got a diagram for this somewhere? I would like to do a 60' in my backyard without guys but I'm not sure how to go about it. A tilting mast is the direction I would like to go, I just don't want to have guys to trip over.
@@sixcolors4226 I don't have a diagram - just the text description I gave. If you don't want to DIY... You can also purchase a tilting base plate from DX Engineering. I also have one of those which has been fantastic. I use the DXE plate for my Hustler 6 BTV vertical. I did a 6 ft vertical hole with steel rebar and 5 bags of concrete. Again, no guys.
@@mattstosh6960 I'm just no good with story problems. Pictures and numbers with descriptions are easier for my brain.
@@sixcolors4226 Got it... so how do I get some pictures and hand drawn illustrations to you.? UA-cam will not allow me to upload stuff like that.
I love this!
This will be perfect for our camping trips (1-2 weeks), as well as for a scout project. Many thanks to the viewer that submitted this. Outstanding.
To repeat an earlier post: The stakes are concrete form stakes - that will get you to the right area. Same for the plastic caps. Highly recommended in any event.
I'll recommend U-bolts instead of the hose clamps. Stronger, no sharp bits, easier to install.
EMT has all sorts of fittings to look at that may work out better than shelf brackets to hold the pully. Plus things like turnbuckles and elbos and more U-bolts could be on the table.
Instead of jam nuts, there are various forms of lock nuts or even plain nuts set with Locktite (vibration is not really a problem like in an automotive application) one could also use.
Why not just make the stakes out of #4 or #5 rebar cut down to whatever length you need? They sell it in 10 and 20 ft lengths at Home Depot and even with the 20 ft lengths, it doesn't really take that long to cut it down to size with a hacksaw to fit into your car if you don't have a utility trailer to to carry a long piece...
@@CurmudgeonExtraordinaire Some places carry precut rebar too. The only question that comes to mind, is the texture of the rebar good enough to keep the guy wires from slipping? Those holes on the stakes that you can add keeper pins are pretty handy.
@@ronboe6325 -- Bend the rebar until it has a greater than 90 degree angle "hook" on the end... Or if you want to get fancy, heat it up and bend a small loop in the end... Or weld a loop made out of #3 rebar (3/8") onto the end... The last suggesting is probably the easiest though... Take a piece of #3 rebar about 18" long... Put it halfway in two pieces of sched-40 steel pipe that are each around 3 ft long (so that you have plenty of leverage)... Pull the ends of the pipe together, thus bending the rebar into a U shape... Adjust the shape as necessary so that the distance between the legs of the U are the same size as the rebar you are going to be driving into the ground as stakes... Weld it together such that there is a couple of inches of loop that you can use to tie your guy wire / rope to... Welding rebar is easy since it is so thick that you don't have to worry about burning through it like you would with an 18-gauge tubing or sheet metal...
@@CurmudgeonExtraordinaire Dang good ideas (I'm not fond of nails sticking out of stakes) but I don't have a welder, don't know how to weld so personally I'd take the lazy way out and buy the stakes. But if I did weld, had a gas torch, then I'd probably have an anvil and I'd fab up something for sure.
@@ronboe6325 -- Just bend it more than 90 degrees then... It's not like there is ever going to be enough force on it to straighten out the bend... I'm not a *great* welder, but I can make thick pieces of metal stick together with just an old AC stick welding machine (Lincoln AC-225)... Now, welding up a tank so that it doesn't leak is not something that I've been that good at over the years... But for thick stuff that it doesn't matter if the weld is not perfect? Yeah, I can do that... I think I paid less than $100 for my Lincoln off of someone on CraigsList...
I used same Lowes Chain link TOP rail , two of them for 20 ft. but, it was self standing, I drove strong Fence Post farmer use, and tied to fence post with 4, 5 hose clamp. I put 145Mhz antenna on top of it. AG6JU
Try Dynema for guide wire. Found at larger boat stores. No stretch and very strong.
I made a 30' mast with 3 sections of top rail. If you use the top rail couplings in conjunction with the slip fit it makes a strong joint. I used two sets of guyed wires and assembled this on a small section of top rail driven in the ground.
You could also add a 1/4 wave or 5/8 wave light ground plane for 2 meters safely at the top. Not heavy and not much of a "sail".
I have a Diamond CP22E on top of two top rails, and the only guying I used is a bracket attached to my eave. It's seen some pretty decent wind a time or two. I'd probably add additional guying if I were to insert another 10 foot section, but I'm hitting repeaters 50+ miles away- so I don't see the point in going higher.
About to watch your Video - will just suggest the way i held the mast from slipping & or rising . used those Cement Blocks ,(forgot the term lol) w/ large two large holes . Had one other person hold their foot on it as well , had placed PVC pipe in ground with quickcrete to slip in EMT pipe X4 of them ,yes they looked funny and leaning a bit , i call these masts my Lazy Hillbilly Loop , have 4 in semi- square formation LOL . Yes have lost some masts to wind but have used them since 2014 with great success supporting over 530ft of 12ga wire LOL - i figure you have to try it to see if it Fails Big Time ! LOL Now seriously i do recommend guying for faint of Heart Hams - and have added some tree support but i will continue to repair and use them cause it Works - Love your info and sending you Many Blessings from ,"the Hillbilly Ham" W5HEH . 73
PS these masts go up 40+ FT !
Nice DIY idea and build and I have plenty of scrap tubing from car canopies that are swaged on one end, so this is a viable idea for easily raising various wire antennas. For my permanent 6-wire, all-band, cage vertical (TC2M that requires no tuner), I used a 46' telescoping fiberglass mast available from DX Engineering that free-ships in 7-foot sections, for $250. Weighing only 32.5 pounds, it is easily raised without any assistance. If you're not a basketball center, a stepladder is required. No need to slit the sections because hose clamps hold the sections in place. An old cantilever pool umbrella base and four concrete blocks stabilize the base of the mast while raising. The mast can then be guyed with guy ring kits from DXE as desired from mid-point and/or higher up. As is, it is almost freestanding. AD6AE
As to making a tiltable mast, go to a Farm store and purchase a Gate hinge.
Attach one side of the hinge to the bottom of your mast pipe !
On the other side of the hinge, ( @ 90 °) purchase all thread of the appropriate size, to fit the holes in the hinge, and choose how long you want the all thread, and attatch appropriate nuts to top and bottom of the hinge, to secure the all thread to the hinge !
As it will be pushed, or driven into the ground, as your anchor point !
Attach your guy wires and antenna and lift into place !
Makes for cheap and easy tilt over mast, as when you are done, you can simply pull up the all thread, and be on your way, leaving only tiny holes in the Terra Firma !
Great for POTA !
👍😉
Hope that makes sense !
Ridgeway! I went to college (briefly) in Durango back in the early 70’s. Beautiful country.
I made one and put pool noodles zip tied over the cables at the stakes. Bright colored cables are hard to miss.
@6:11 What about my favorite tool the air hammer?
These EMT long masts are raised by a hand operated winch. just mount a pulley to the underside of the overhang of your house or building. Mount the winch at the ground level. Look for a winch that will lock both when raising and lowering the mast. Some inexpensive winches will not lock when lowering. I purchased my winch on E-bay checking to insure that the winch locks in both directions. My system has been in use for 5 years. I have a heavy-duty 40 foot push up mast made from fiberglass.
p.s. I use to use EMT metal tubing, but I felt it affected antenna radiation patterns with my phased arrays.
73 .....W7OSS
I took a 10' fence top rail, a 10' piece of fiberglass pole saw handle. Fit them together and put through bolts through. I pounded a 7' t post 4' into the ground. Used a dish tripod slipped over the t post. I then attached my 10' tri band antenna to the top. With a friend we tipped it up and slipped it into the tripod and over the t post. Staked the tripod down. So far so good with up to 40 mph winds. Works great
I love listening to you Dave. You are so professional and calmly and smartly remind everyone about safety along the way. This is such a wonderful project. I just need a larger piece of property so I can start playing with stuff like this.
Cost of OSHA certified hard hat at Home Depot:$7.50. Cost of getting a new haircut after skull surgery : $20.00.
And the hard hat lasts a damn long time. Please...
Here's a bit of an update on Home Depot prices as of Aug. 2024. I priced all the parts for this project at Home Depot today and the total bill came in north of $300. As a comparison, I stopped by a business that builds horse barns, cattle pens, and rail fencing and asked if they could sell me a 30 foot long, 3 inch diameter pipe? Their answer, Yes. The cost would be $80. Moral of the story, keep your eyes open for every opportunity! There are alternatives to the big box stores! Now...... it's time to do some engineering work and get that 30 foot mast into the air, with antenna of course :o)
Being that everything is made out of metal, does it interact much with dipoles?
YES. The calculations should take this into effect. But consider mounting on an balanced outrigger mast or upgrading your design to a bobtail or dual Yagi beam so the antennae are out of alignment with the mast.
A vertical pole won't interact much at all with a horizontal dipole.
I assume you meant STAINLESS steel bolts, not just steel. Consider Nylock nuts instead of using two nuts as they do not need anti-seize paste
If you use steel bolts, they don't need anti seize paste either.
Dave, I find EMT and rail too heavy, Home Depot had Closet rail pipe, much easier to work with . then we bought there conduit pipe straps that fit around perfectly add screws. Or use real antenna mast. strong and light.
Awesome video
Wouldn't it be easier (and probably cheaper) to just use a telescopic TV antenna mast?
A ten foot piece of top rail is like $15, you can buy 2 and have a 20 foot mast thats quite sturdy for pretty cheap. A telescopic tv mast is much more expensive.
Have you priced a 30 ft telescopic lately, with shipping?
@@mssippijim a 23' painters pole is like 1/4 the price of a fiberglass mast and probably tougher.
@@GoonyMclinuxI just bought a 25ft metal telescoping mast for $140 shipped to my door. Very, very strong. Came with guying rings. By the time you buy all of the materials here you are probably pushing near $100. Plus it isn't telescoping. Plus your time, and potential screw ups. For the $50 I'd just get something already built.
@@bassmanjr100 If it works for you it works. I use painters poles with 8 extra feet of fiberglass rod hoseclamped on, total cost is probably $60 for one. Mine recently withstood high winds from a near miss tornado no issue, trees were down but cheap azz masts survived. 🤣 But the fence top rail is so strong I use them for small yagis and such also. Here its like $20 a section.
Thank you Dave
I have a an AV 680 up right next to my house all above the roofline and use Darcon rope? Forgot how to spell it. Easy to get from HRO or online
I went 20 foot by sliding 1.25" EMT inside of 1.5" EMT and securing it with screws.
Not sure if you could slide this into 1.75 EMT and go up 30 feet or not.
Hi Dave, nice 30 ft mast. I purchased a mast by Blue sky mast company in Florida. The Al1series mast system in really
enjoy. Ask for the reconditioned al1 series mast. The mast is 9 3ft sections made of aluminum and a 5 ft tripod to hold up with 4 guyed wires. Check it out on line. Can be put up and taken down by 1 person about 15 minutes. I was made for the military.😊
let me know what you think?
Ask for "Charles" in sales if he still works there. Ask for the "reconditioned al1 series don't
need the crank to raise up very
light and portable like for field
day. 😊 Have used for 5 years no rusting part in the Philippines.
How much?
@@jameyevans291300.00 for the reconditioned mast system which is really just a discontinued model but still new. Been using it for 5 yrs ,3 yrs in the Philippines. 3 ft sectional. 2in OD . Military rated. I can take it down when bad weather is coming in 10-15 min . Their is a video of al1 blue sky on you tube I think. Good luck!😊
@@jamesabc372 I’ll look into it that. Thank you for the reply!
@@jameyevans29The sales manager name was "Charles" when I purchased. Total weight of system 83lbs comes with quality carry bag with wheels.😊
@@jamesabc372 That’s what I’m looking for to use with a wire dipole😁
Am I missing something because per your drawing, how do you get 1-3/8" top rail inside 1-1/4" EMT? Stainless steel hardware with nyloc nuts might be a better choice than just steel and jam nuts.
Yep, you're missing something. Those advertised sizes aren't actual sizes (much like a 2x4 isn't 2 inches by 4 inches).
Some pipe is specified by inside dimension, some by outside dimension. 1.25 EMT has an actual ID of 1.38 inches. Top rail has an actual OD of 1.32 inches.
Pipe and tube are measured differently - pipe is measured by ID, tube is measured by OD. It's weird. Then, there's top rail.. LOL - took me a while to figure this out too.
much easier stronger and more convenient to use 3 sections od TELESPAR which fit within each other
(use the one with holes) .
What aisle is that in at Home Depot?
Hi Dave,
I did the same thing but recreated an antenna system used by the military from a TM from 1953. I believe it is a AS/GRA 4/12 antenna kit. The military runs it in the air as a 50 ft mast system. I use it as a 30ft mast system. The actual manual is TM 11-2651, and another manual TM 11-5815-334-10 Mast AB-155/U Erection.
I use all surplus parts , and some I created from Home Depot. I use aluminum cammo net poles, 8 poles are 29.5 ft tall and they use 3 guy rings per pole at different levels of the pole. 4 guy lines per ring. So a total of 12 guy lines per mast. Beings it is a military system it must withstand high winds in the field when erected.
At the base of the pole they drive in the ground what they call a swivel stake. Very expensive to buy, I made them out of the concrete form stakes from Home Depot. I take square tube 1/4 in thick, cut 1 side out to make a U if you will, weld a 6 in piece of 1 1/2 in dia tube on the bottom of the U, then drill through the 2 sides and put a bolt through the U with the concrete stake. The U will be able to be laid over so you can drive the stake in the ground. You put the mast on the tube of the swivel stake, and when the pole is being walked up, the swivel pivots with the mast.
The pulley is mounted to the top guy ring and can be used for running single wire virticle wire or dipole, or end fed.
I have 3 30 ft masts in the air in this fashion and it has been fantastic.
First time I did it was during my first field day during the Covid lock down. I ran a 80m off center fed dipole, and it was great. And the masts have with stood 60-80 mph winds.
I also use the military comm wire for my antennas, I was able to get 1000 feet of double strand wire on the spool for 47.00 at the surplus store, and I split it down to single strand. And with the old surplus reel machines for the AN/GRA-4 antenna system, I am able to have 200 ft of wire on each one. I just reel out as much wire as I need from my balun, lock down the reel and run the reel up the mast on the halyards ( pulley’s) and check my antenna with my rig stick and I’m on the air.
I have told hams of all the surplus I use to create my antennas and the old books and manuals I use, the response I normally get is I never thought about that, or where is that surplus store at?
Hope this is helpful as far as how I get my antennas in the air. Where I live In Texas, most of our big trees are by power lines.
Jeff
KI5HGT
a halyard is the rope not the pulley.
I wonder if you put pulleys vs eye bolts for the guy wires make it easier to replace them as they age in the weather without having to take it down?
Use the right kind of cord and the guys will last over a decade. I've replaced mine once in 30 years.
I need to make a crank up pole for my trailer for my 3 element beam, how much you charge to make one up.
I did a similar pipe joining back in 2020 when I got my license for my apartment antenna.
We have done a TON of projects using 13 Gauge Fence rails 10.5 feet long. I have my 12 and 15 yr General Class daughters Mig weld them up. We just weld ours up using 70s2 or 70s6, although Kiswel has some wire specifically for galvanized material. We then spot the welds with Cold Glavinized paint. We also put the pole ends with some rebar in a 5 Gallon bucket with concrete in them. Thats what we have done. Just need to pick your guy wire or rope points. Works Great.
You can also get the steel stakes at almost all concrete companies!!
Dang, Dave! I love your telephone!
Now that i watched your Video, i have seen a Vid. on a Fellow Ham who overlapped PVC on the outside of Top rail pipes at the joints , for added strength and it looked pretty strong. We only get strong winds ,(about 35-45mph), very seldom . I would have others look at the Steel TV Masts for light duty or even medium duty ,(wire or Light Hex Beams w/ very small rotors if needed ), guyed naturally . Fortunately we do not have next door neighbors except occasional Cow or Coyote, Bob Cat, Deer Etc . to consider . Cost has been the major consideration for my installation . Wonder if outside overlap is a stronger and shorter frugal solution . Keep these coming Thank You and 73
I wonder how much concrete would be needed to lower the center of mass on this thing ?
I may go with a Rohn collapsible mast, but these are good ideas, even ignoring the pole-inside-pole.
Drilling holes through the tubing weakens it significantly.
Drill one hole just below the end point of the fence rail point in the emt.
Placing 2 of the three guys pre measured for length lets you pull the mast to vertical using the third guy.
A much simpler pivot point can be made with galvanized or black iron plumbing parts. A tee, and three pre threaded pipe sections of appropriate length.
Nylock nuts are probably cheaper than jam nuts.
5:57 The SKU you show is for an 18" stake, according to Home Depot. Kinda makes sense, considering the '18' at the end.
6:14 A little? The 36" stakes they show now cost $94.96 for 10, which seems to be the only way they are sold. That's $9.50 each, almost double what you show. Let's go, Brandon!
What I want is a 20' free-standing mast, no guy wires. Any suggestions?
I think you'll need to go with something like Rohn 25 with a good concrete base. Gonna cost you. A 20' mast made of two pieces of concrete fence top rail with guys will be much less expensive. I guess the price of the stakes varies a lot with time, depending on the cost of steel. I've collected quite a few.
Remember the old construction axiom:
You never have time to do it right but you can always find time to do it over.
Thanks for sharing this video and the advice, opinions and insights.
73 AA4SH Steve
How long is your coax from the mast pole to your house / shack ?
Living in Arkansas, I envy people with clay soil. I lived in Missouri long ago and didn't realize how well I had it. Arkansas is full of rocks and would practically have to drill to get a rod three feet down.
need to alter this plan.
very sturdy by using three top fence rails for”each section”
bottom is one full length the cut a second one at the 1/3 point.
then just add full length till you reach 30 or 40 feet long. then very thin conduit to protect the coax ( other wires).
about the six foot point using square steel tubing only need a foot lone here and another one on the “bottom end.
sink into concrete two four in channels or more of said tubing down in at least four feet but need to stick out just over the six foot mark.
this makes a sound base. and tilt up point.
An easuer way is to place a 18" to 24" piece of 3/4" angle and two clamps at each joint. It really stiffins joint.
Cheap flat mounts for flat roofs?
Many field days we have used a Simple extended ladder to push up a tall pole. This could’ve easily pushed a 30 foot mast up in just a couple of minutes with three or four people helping out.
Great stuff.! Very helpful. Won’t all the metal affect the antenna performance tho?
Vertical mast won't affect horizontal wire antennas, and vertical mast won't affect vertical antennas mounted on top of them. If you go running a vertical wire antenna next to the mast, then yes it will affect it.
Those stakes are usually found by the concrete with the rebar (former THD freight associate)
FYI the correct SKU is STKR36. R18 is for the 18" length.
How does a 1 3/8 too rail fit inside a 1 1/4 in conduit or did i miss something?
Yep, you're missing something. Those advertised sizes aren't actual sizes (much like a 2x4 isn't 2 inches by 4 inches).
Those are nominal dimensions. Some pipe is specified by inside dimension, some by outside dimension. 1.25 EMT has an actual ID of 1.38 inches. Top rail has an actual OD of 1.32 inches.
use ss aircraft 1/8 steel cable.
My FM reception is bad. Need to get a decent antenna and get it as high as possible. Roof mount will probably work fine
By FM I think you must mean VHF and UHF. A simple J-pole can be very effective. Ed Fong has some great multiband antennas. See edsantennas.weebly.com/
@@davecasler Thanks
How does the 1 3/8 top rail fit inside 1 1/4 emt?
Inside diameter of 1-1/4" EMT is 1.380" The 1-3/8 top rail is actually a little under 1-3/8 (1.375") and will slide inside the conduit.
never use the nominal dimensions. always use real specifications. there's a good reason the plans call for "thin-walled EMT" specifically. many-a-house would be out of square if the assumption was made that a 2X4 is exactly 2" by 4".
Those are nominal dimensions. Some pipe is specified by inside dimension, some by outside dimension. 1.25 EMT has an actual ID of 1.38 inches. Top rail has an actual OD of 1.32 inches.
I slid it in my trucks back window and rested the end on the dash. Tie a flag on the other end and off you go. If you don’t have a truck fond a friend with one.
? Just use a painters pole or a pole extension for painting or the fiberglass poles for trimming trees. They’re 30 feet, plus they are telescoping ,meaning you can raise it lower it by standing on the ground. These polls cost between 80 to 120 dollars for 30 feet. next thing you need is the guidewires or rope, it’s that simple 😉
1.5 inch EMT was $40+ tax at the lowes in Columbia TN so not cheap by any means I already had the 1.75 and 1.25 pieces or would have been $200+
Or to by rope from a ship shop, in any other colour, that is still UV resistance.
A friend of mine uses a aluminum extension ladder to support his Tri-Bander during field day. He has some really serious stakes that he drives in the ground. They look like they are built for a "circus" tent. Two of the guys are pre-measured just like Dave did so a few people pull on the third rope while several people lift and tilt the ladder to the verticle position. I not sure, but I think it's a 20' ladder...
I used 3 - 10 foot lengths of chain link fence top rail to make a 30 foot mast. I have it mounted on the front of my mobile home with a couple of brackets with a 2 meter vertical on it. Been there for years with no guy wires at all. I put it up all by myself.
Wow you still have a rotary phone.......sweet
A Gin Pole - the way we raise and lower wind turbines, that are mounted on top of a 50' pole.
Why would this be preferable to using 3 10-ft top rails?
Shipping. Anything over 5' may have to be completely handled as freight. Also a big problem to go POTA in a Prius.
@@stephenwhite1607 FFS. The EMT he's using is 10' too, and they're using materials you can get at Home Depot for a reason.
3 top rails would be pretty floppy. This is much stiffer.
Do not mean to be argueminitive, the pole can be raised by one man. 3 lines on 4 sides.
I suppose its all up to code, but the important question is whether it is deer proof.
I remember back in the early 70's my family decided to install a 50ft telescopic mast, the one we used was from ROHN I believe. I took 6 persons to raise, it was fully extended when we did it, my mom was a CB operator and bought a 2 element PDL antenna and wanted it on the top. took 6 persons to raise it to full height Was really surprised with all the work we did to do it
"We figured out what we were doing wrong, and did it again." :)
You shouldn’t need a drillpress if you insert the bolts before drilling the next hole.
Forget the mast. That black rotary phone is the bom'diggity. I have one but it's a color I can't identify. Black in the Western Electric Ma'Bell looks the best. Be careful of the party-lines.
KO4EMH
If you want to make the whole procedure much safer use 4-way guying rather than three way. Much safer. Triangular mast is not the same as round pipe, and saving money on a single set of guy lines is not worth the trade off.
At 14:00 "He's holding on to the old 20 METER mast" (should be 20 FOOT mast)
Army TM11-5820-348-15 has instructions on how to raise a mast by yourself. Years ago, when I had an RC-292 antenna I used to raise it using the TM instructions with no trouble. Now thaat I am over 80 years old, I will not attempt that !
It’s not “the Biden affect” it’s “bidenomics” we aren’t smart enough, apparently, to realize how wonderful everything is.
Thirty feet = a LOT of leverage!
Yes, we dropped it once due to a tiny puff of wind. Created a bit of havoc!
Dyneema works well. It's used a lot for safety lines and mast rigging on sailboats. Very UV resistant. It does tend to permanently elongate under heavy stress over time. This answered my dilemma as I have a ring of tall hills around me.
Please forgive me if I am showing my ignorance, why not just use 3 pieces of top rail?
the tolerances of that lap joint aren't tight enough to stack up three times and retain strength. Your mast would look more like a keel if you tried to make it out of top rail alone. That is to say, it would bend into a C immediately. You could add a sheet metal shim inside each joint to improve the fit, but it's kind of janky and unreliable to use shims as an integral component like that.
@tissuepaper9962 I can see your point. There is no friction or compression fit of the inner tubing in this instance, as a matter of fact there is not an interference fit of any kind. I would think that this would allow the pole to untrue itself, but I guess that it won't because it didn't. LoL 73
5:10 Why would anyone use aluminum bolts? What a strange thing to caution against. I recommend you don't use metallic hydrogen bolts either.
You never know!
Dave, I was interested because Home Depot is a parts source. You lost me when you said “drill press” and “welded.” I don’t have those tools or know anyone who does.
You can use a hammer and a punch to make a place for the drill bit to sit in. And look up the mfj-1903 tilt over base. Easy to replicate with C channel, few bolts, few pins.
If you don't have a welder, you can make that same piece with threaded steel pipe and a tee (either black pipe or galvanized). You don't really need a drill press either. Just take a punch and put a dimple in the pipe to keep the drill bit from walking.
A welder maybe I can understand. But a drill press? They're under $100 at Harbor Freight.
I’ve had a mast made of 1” conduit overlapping 2 feet with hose clamps 30’ tall standing for over 10 years. No issues at all.
Great build, Dave! Very complete info, too. Thanks!
Forming pins.. in concrete
At my local Home Depot, those long metal steaks are actually cold steaks. Apologies for misspelling. I think my iPad is hungry. 73 from Dave
The stakes can be found in the Cement section of the store. They are used to strengthen concrete forms
Thanks for the shelf bracket idea. In the past I used several weird contraptions that were never satisfactory.
Don't pound on anything with a mull, use an SDS+, SDS Max or an air hammer someone in your club must have one! SDS hammer drills also can install an 8 foot 5/8" ground in 15 seconds down below grass level
It is not so much not using paracord, but instead only not dynamic rope but do use static rope like engine start rope which can be purchased in spools cheaply and will not stretch even a quarter inch or rappelling human loading lines they can stretch up to 10%! I have several start rope spools of 20 hp mowers those are 5/16th" thick and very strong.
________________________________________________________________________________
Looking for the design plans for the Canadian Marconi Company wooden crank up tower. Those can reach up to 90' but most were under 40'. They were used by the British, Canadian and United States militaries into the 1980's.
This is stupid from start to finish! Go to a fence company and you can get 30’ lengths of frnce post pipe up to 1/4” thickness. With one of your guy stakes you can tie the base off and stand the tower by yourself. I am guessing this tower is only for a 2m ground plane or maybe a 80m long wire.(no rotor or multi element beam)
Hardly stupid given it works. This is my test tower. I know a guy who has a fencing business up in Montrose--I'll ask him about the pipe.
How exactly would you get a 30 foot length of pipe home?
@@stargazer7644 You'd have to get it delivered. A contractor friend brought my 20' pipe home using the rack on top of his truck.
We know everything has gone up in price, it's called the "Biden effect."
He says it is Bidenomics and that everything is better because of it.
@@BryanTorok"Bidenomics" is now a forbidden word ...
@@MrSummitville Why? The left and the president himself are still using that word to tout the advantages of his plan.
This is game radio, not politics, thank you
It’s called inflation, jackwagon