Thanks for this video. This helped us print our vectors. When doing file setup for png or rasterized files is there a trick we should start off with in using whites and rasterized art? We are getting tiny jagged pixel white edges around our colors when after it prints. It does not look as nice as your flower print.
You're likely getting jagged edges because you're adding white in-RIP rather than in the file itself, right? Within the RIP it's (mostly) an all-or-nothing proposition. So even if there's only like a 1% coverage of CMYK ink, you'd still get 100% coverage of white at that pixel. And that's what's causing the jagged edges. To really do it right for raster images that have soft edges, such as in the flower image in my video, you'll need to add white in Photoshop - which is what that file was. I address this in my "Adding White Ink in Adobe Photoshop Video" - ua-cam.com/video/ewDE7v5ntVo/v-deo.html - following the steps there should get you to where you need to be.
Hey Lee! I have finally gotten around to testing with white ink on our 2 800w's. However I seem to be having trouble using flexi to print and cut a white ink project. I have been successful with onyx go but not Flexi. I created the file in Illustrator with a white spot color layer and a contour cut spot color and layer.
What happens when you try in Flexi - where is the problem starting? If you want, contact me at lee.manevitch@hp.com and I'll either help you out if possible, or connect you with someone who can.
Thank you so much Lee. I have been trying to learn the PM in addition to the Flexi designer, and have struggled to get white to print. Being able to change the printer channel thru the preview is extremely helpful to know. I have not seen that in other videos. I have always done my artwork with Illustrator, but can't figure out how to designate white underbase as "Spot_white". Do you have any tuts using AI to prepare arrtwork for PM?
Always happy to help, James! I actually do have a video on my channel specifically made for setting up for white ink in Adobe Illustrator. The only thing you'd need to change from the tutorial to your particular workflow is the name of the color, from Spot to Spot_white. The video is at ua-cam.com/video/XH0-SsR7I9A/v-deo.html and if you still have questions then please don't hesitate to reach out to me and I'll get you squared away.
Hi Lee thanks for the video! Any idea on any differences when coming to print double sided WSW? I am attempting to print the same image using color (mirrored)/white/black/white/color to achieve a double sided static cling. I set up my layers in Illustrator as print image (mirrored), spot white, black, spot white, and then print image again. Let me know if I am missing anything, but I am following the end section for white sandwich printing on my 800W... Maybe the 5 layers is overkill for the same image, but wanted to make sure that neither side shows through to the other. Thanks!
It sounds like you need 5-layer mode based on your description, but if it's exactly the same image front and back then you're correct - it might be overkill. 3-layer sandwich is intended for day/night applications, where it is expected (and favorable) to have light coming from the non-viewing side. 5-layer sandwich mode has white/black/white as the inner three layers, which blocks light transmission from one color side to the other. Given the description in your comment I'd encourage you to first try a small sample of 3-layer and see if that meets your needs before committing to 5-layers, especially if you need to print a significant number of square feet.
@@LeeManevitch Sounds good, I'll test it out and see how it goes. My concern was due to it being the same art but one being flipped. Its intended purpose is to be placed on a window in a school building, they want the design visible from outside and inside. Luckily it is only a handful so we can test. Thanks again!
PNG files don't contain white. They may contain "white" areas but that would be onscreen white and not white ink. You would have to manually add white ink to your file and save as a TIFF. The print modes are in no way connected to your artwork so you could print as spot, overflood, underflood, or sandwich. That is decided at the RIP.
You know what? I'm not sure. I'm general, that would be controlled through the black generation settings inside the ICC profile but I've never tried it to do a 3-color profile.
i will be as its the software supplied with my new dtf that is on a boat from china, although i may have to get cadlink as i dont want to have to edit over 300 designs in png format to add spot colours, i am a dtg guy atm, and getting white to print with the brother rip is easy.@@babybirdscraftingmemories2468
Hi Lee, do you have any videos on how to batch jobs up. I have some small stickers that I need 250 off with no gaps in between so I do not have to make hundreds of little cuts cuts. I'm new to this. Thanks Steve
Steve, there's really no great way to do in the RIP. If you need to make "common cuts" between individual pieces then pretty much that's a manual process in the design software. That said, what you COULD do is create a grid of cutlines then populate your stickers inside each cut rectangle. That should be a fairly simple step-and-repeat process in the design software. But you would have to create those cutlines first...I don't know of any in-RIP shortcuts to handle that kind of requirement.
I have zero knowledge about DTF printers. In general, the workflow I laid out is for dealing with a printer that has a white channel, so in the absence of any personal experience the best I can offer is...probably?
Thanks Kalu. Well there are a couple of advantages: first, creating multiple layers in the design software allows you to manage your artwork easier - you can turn a layer on or off to view or hide it; you can lock the layer allowing you to see the artwork but not alter it; and you can easily select all elements in a layer with one click of the mouse. Secondly, and perhaps more important for this video, in RIP software like Flexi you can use it to more easily create color+white prints. If you mean "layering" meaning color and white together on the printer, well, imagine you're printing something dark red on clear material to be hung in a window. Without white it would look just like if you wrote on a window with a dry-erase marker - it would barely be visible if you're looking at something dark. But by adding white behind the image (as viewed) you provide enough contrast that you'll see red as intended.
@@LeeManevitch Thanks so much and I hope I hear you well when mention in the video, the ink would wash away easily after printing I am using FlexiPrint software for DTF t shirt transfer
@@pbinfotech oh, I have no idea. The video was really based on a different print technology - the inks I'm referring to are permanent and meant for signage and display graphics. I'm not sure how garment printing works, exactly.
Thank you for the great tutorials. What version is your Flexi? I’m switching from HP 560 with purchased flexi production manager 12 to HP700W with Onyx 1Yr subscription and $99 monthly after (or $6k in just 5 years!) Any toughs on other more affordable RIPs?
I'm using Flexi 21. If you have an earlier version then you'll need some sort of upgrade to get the proper drivers for the printer - pretty typical of any RIP product. But I don't know actual costs associated with that. Pretty much everything seems to hover around the $500 mark. As far as RIP options I have extensive experience with Onyx, flexi, and Caldera. Outside of that I have no real knowledge. They're all expensive, relatively. But the real way to think of it is this: it's the main driving force of your print business. At $99 a month for Onyx GO, for example, that's just one small sign order. Over my entire career I've seen a lot of people spending way too much energy trying to save a few bucks rather than spending the same energy growing their business. Bring in one additional $200 order per month and you've paid for the RIP, and that's not nearly as hard to accomplish compared to being productive with a substandard or unsupported RIP.
@@LeeManevitch upgrading makes sense, however I believe HP supposed to provide a RIP software with a printer, like they did in the past. It’s like buying a car and having to make monthly payments for the steering wheel. Everything has a price, and this software is not worth $6000 for 5 years that I normally keep my printers. I understand what you meant, but the small job you’ve mentioned is an income that could’ve been used for other means. Each item in sign business cost premium and requires that “small job” to be made. I have small family rum shop and honestly would much rather to purchase that software than make endless payments. In any case, I believe HP is wrong on not providing any free RIP with their product.
If you don't want to rely on a RIP then probably you should be looking at a printer that doesn't require one. I don't make decisions for the company; I just work for them in the capacity of a technical consultant. But every single wide-format printer requires a RIP of some sort and if one is "free" then you're still paying for it, bundled into your purchase price. And if it's a proprietary RIP then keep in mind that the only reason a manufacturer provides it is to specifically lock you in to their ecosystem. By working with a universal RIP you're free to change brands and printer types without having to learn new software to make it work. Onyx GO is also not the only way to get a RIP - you can also buy a license for a one-time fee and I think that fee is well under $2000. What you don't get for that price is perpetual upgrades and support. If it's not worth it to you then don't buy it. Sorry to sound harsh but that's the reality. You make a value decision and if the value isn't there, then you walk away. This discussion, though, is WAY beyond the scope of this video and if you want to continue then I'd suggest you work this through with your reseller or with a RIP manufacturer.
@@LeeManevitch thanks for your perspective, sorry if I made it sound like you have anything to do with that, I’m actually very grateful for your videos and training. My previous comment was regarding the hp700w sale since hp560 came with a full version 12, which was expected and necessary to run the printer. I still believe HP is responsible for the RIP of their own since it’s required to operate the equipment.
Would you be able to give insight on how to set up a file in sandwich mode but with high quantities, like i wanted to make a batch of double sides decals. I am able to do 1. but i dont want to send the file 20 different times.
I can't test at the moment to see if anything has changed, but the last time I used Flexi to implement sandwich mode the software did not support nesting. So if that still holds true, the only way to accomplish what you're looking to do it to create your complete multiple-up layout in your design software. Once you have your design then you can follow the steps in the video to send that layout as a 5-layer job.
Sure - right-click your printer in Production Manager and select "Default Job Properties..." and then go to the 4th tab, Printer Options. In there you can change your choke amount to whatever you want. Any settings you change in the Default Job Properties dialog will remain whenever you open a file.
Hello, I have problem whith white layer on Corel X5. White layer is on CMYK layer image ofc on other project layer. Color what i use is name RDG_WHITE whith overprint option. Flexi see spot color, i change it for spot_1 but printer wont print white underbase. Regards
1. In the Color Management tab for the job, make sur you're choosing a white print mode. Also make sure that the Color Mode option is set to CMYKW, assuming you're printing underflood. 2. In the Separation tab, the RDG_White spot color should be set up to print as White - not spot_1.
Very nice video explanation! Thank you!!
Great stuff, thank you Lee!
Thanks Paul!
Thanks very nice job.
Thanks for this video. This helped us print our vectors. When doing file setup for png or rasterized files is there a trick we should start off with in using whites and rasterized art? We are getting tiny jagged pixel white edges around our colors when after it prints. It does not look as nice as your flower print.
You're likely getting jagged edges because you're adding white in-RIP rather than in the file itself, right? Within the RIP it's (mostly) an all-or-nothing proposition. So even if there's only like a 1% coverage of CMYK ink, you'd still get 100% coverage of white at that pixel. And that's what's causing the jagged edges.
To really do it right for raster images that have soft edges, such as in the flower image in my video, you'll need to add white in Photoshop - which is what that file was. I address this in my "Adding White Ink in Adobe Photoshop Video" - ua-cam.com/video/ewDE7v5ntVo/v-deo.html - following the steps there should get you to where you need to be.
Hey Lee! I have finally gotten around to testing with white ink on our 2 800w's. However I seem to be having trouble using flexi to print and cut a white ink project. I have been successful with onyx go but not Flexi. I created the file in Illustrator with a white spot color layer and a contour cut spot color and layer.
What happens when you try in Flexi - where is the problem starting?
If you want, contact me at lee.manevitch@hp.com and I'll either help you out if possible, or connect you with someone who can.
Thank you so much Lee. I have been trying to learn the PM in addition to the Flexi designer, and have struggled to get white to print. Being able to change the printer channel thru the preview is extremely helpful to know. I have not seen that in other videos. I have always done my artwork with Illustrator, but can't figure out how to designate white underbase as "Spot_white". Do you have any tuts using AI to prepare arrtwork for PM?
Always happy to help, James!
I actually do have a video on my channel specifically made for setting up for white ink in Adobe Illustrator. The only thing you'd need to change from the tutorial to your particular workflow is the name of the color, from Spot to Spot_white.
The video is at ua-cam.com/video/XH0-SsR7I9A/v-deo.html and if you still have questions then please don't hesitate to reach out to me and I'll get you squared away.
Hi Lee thanks for the video! Any idea on any differences when coming to print double sided WSW?
I am attempting to print the same image using color (mirrored)/white/black/white/color to achieve a double sided static cling. I set up my layers in Illustrator as print image (mirrored), spot white, black, spot white, and then print image again. Let me know if I am missing anything, but I am following the end section for white sandwich printing on my 800W... Maybe the 5 layers is overkill for the same image, but wanted to make sure that neither side shows through to the other. Thanks!
It sounds like you need 5-layer mode based on your description, but if it's exactly the same image front and back then you're correct - it might be overkill.
3-layer sandwich is intended for day/night applications, where it is expected (and favorable) to have light coming from the non-viewing side. 5-layer sandwich mode has white/black/white as the inner three layers, which blocks light transmission from one color side to the other.
Given the description in your comment I'd encourage you to first try a small sample of 3-layer and see if that meets your needs before committing to 5-layers, especially if you need to print a significant number of square feet.
@@LeeManevitch Sounds good, I'll test it out and see how it goes. My concern was due to it being the same art but one being flipped. Its intended purpose is to be placed on a window in a school building, they want the design visible from outside and inside. Luckily it is only a handful so we can test. Thanks again!
Ah - if one image is mirrored then yes, you'll likely need 5-layer.
Is it possible to print a png with white and colour in it using one of the white type options other than spot colour ?
PNG files don't contain white. They may contain "white" areas but that would be onscreen white and not white ink. You would have to manually add white ink to your file and save as a TIFF. The print modes are in no way connected to your artwork so you could print as spot, overflood, underflood, or sandwich. That is decided at the RIP.
Can you print everything except black with flexi when printing on something that is black ? great video by the way, subscribed.
You know what? I'm not sure. I'm general, that would be controlled through the black generation settings inside the ICC profile but I've never tried it to do a 3-color profile.
Did you try this out on DTF printer ? @stuff9016
No. I have no access to a DTF printer nor do I understand that process at all.
i will be as its the software supplied with my new dtf that is on a boat from china, although i may have to get cadlink as i dont want to have to edit over 300 designs in png format to add spot colours, i am a dtg guy atm, and getting white to print with the brother rip is easy.@@babybirdscraftingmemories2468
Hi Lee, do you have any videos on how to batch jobs up. I have some small stickers that I need 250 off with no gaps in between so I do not have to make hundreds of little cuts cuts. I'm new to this. Thanks Steve
Steve, there's really no great way to do in the RIP. If you need to make "common cuts" between individual pieces then pretty much that's a manual process in the design software.
That said, what you COULD do is create a grid of cutlines then populate your stickers inside each cut rectangle. That should be a fairly simple step-and-repeat process in the design software. But you would have to create those cutlines first...I don't know of any in-RIP shortcuts to handle that kind of requirement.
it is possible to print with epson p7500 series in dtf??
I have zero knowledge about DTF printers. In general, the workflow I laid out is for dealing with a printer that has a white channel, so in the absence of any personal experience the best I can offer is...probably?
Thanks great explanation
Pls what is the advantages of creating multiple layer jobs
Thanks Kalu.
Well there are a couple of advantages: first, creating multiple layers in the design software allows you to manage your artwork easier - you can turn a layer on or off to view or hide it; you can lock the layer allowing you to see the artwork but not alter it; and you can easily select all elements in a layer with one click of the mouse. Secondly, and perhaps more important for this video, in RIP software like Flexi you can use it to more easily create color+white prints.
If you mean "layering" meaning color and white together on the printer, well, imagine you're printing something dark red on clear material to be hung in a window. Without white it would look just like if you wrote on a window with a dry-erase marker - it would barely be visible if you're looking at something dark. But by adding white behind the image (as viewed) you provide enough contrast that you'll see red as intended.
@@LeeManevitch
Thanks so much and I hope I hear you well when mention in the video, the ink would wash away easily after printing
I am using FlexiPrint software for DTF t shirt transfer
@@pbinfotech oh, I have no idea. The video was really based on a different print technology - the inks I'm referring to are permanent and meant for signage and display graphics. I'm not sure how garment printing works, exactly.
@@LeeManevitch your video really helps thanks
Thank you for the great tutorials. What version is your Flexi? I’m switching from HP 560 with purchased flexi production manager 12 to HP700W with Onyx 1Yr subscription and $99 monthly after (or $6k in just 5 years!) Any toughs on other more affordable RIPs?
I'm using Flexi 21. If you have an earlier version then you'll need some sort of upgrade to get the proper drivers for the printer - pretty typical of any RIP product. But I don't know actual costs associated with that. Pretty much everything seems to hover around the $500 mark.
As far as RIP options I have extensive experience with Onyx, flexi, and Caldera. Outside of that I have no real knowledge. They're all expensive, relatively. But the real way to think of it is this: it's the main driving force of your print business. At $99 a month for Onyx GO, for example, that's just one small sign order.
Over my entire career I've seen a lot of people spending way too much energy trying to save a few bucks rather than spending the same energy growing their business. Bring in one additional $200 order per month and you've paid for the RIP, and that's not nearly as hard to accomplish compared to being productive with a substandard or unsupported RIP.
@@LeeManevitch upgrading makes sense, however I believe HP supposed to provide a RIP software with a printer, like they did in the past. It’s like buying a car and having to make monthly payments for the steering wheel. Everything has a price, and this software is not worth $6000 for 5 years that I normally keep my printers. I understand what you meant, but the small job you’ve mentioned is an income that could’ve been used for other means. Each item in sign business cost premium and requires that “small job” to be made. I have small family rum shop and honestly would much rather to purchase that software than make endless payments. In any case, I believe HP is wrong on not providing any free RIP with their product.
If you don't want to rely on a RIP then probably you should be looking at a printer that doesn't require one. I don't make decisions for the company; I just work for them in the capacity of a technical consultant. But every single wide-format printer requires a RIP of some sort and if one is "free" then you're still paying for it, bundled into your purchase price.
And if it's a proprietary RIP then keep in mind that the only reason a manufacturer provides it is to specifically lock you in to their ecosystem. By working with a universal RIP you're free to change brands and printer types without having to learn new software to make it work.
Onyx GO is also not the only way to get a RIP - you can also buy a license for a one-time fee and I think that fee is well under $2000. What you don't get for that price is perpetual upgrades and support.
If it's not worth it to you then don't buy it. Sorry to sound harsh but that's the reality. You make a value decision and if the value isn't there, then you walk away.
This discussion, though, is WAY beyond the scope of this video and if you want to continue then I'd suggest you work this through with your reseller or with a RIP manufacturer.
@@LeeManevitch thanks for your perspective, sorry if I made it sound like you have anything to do with that, I’m actually very grateful for your videos and training. My previous comment was regarding the hp700w sale since hp560 came with a full version 12, which was expected and necessary to run the printer. I still believe HP is responsible for the RIP of their own since it’s required to operate the equipment.
@@LeeManevitch as far as the 12 to 21 upgrade, I was quoted $2900 today.
Would you be able to give insight on how to set up a file in sandwich mode but with high quantities, like i wanted to make a batch of double sides decals. I am able to do 1. but i dont want to send the file 20 different times.
I can't test at the moment to see if anything has changed, but the last time I used Flexi to implement sandwich mode the software did not support nesting. So if that still holds true, the only way to accomplish what you're looking to do it to create your complete multiple-up layout in your design software. Once you have your design then you can follow the steps in the video to send that layout as a 5-layer job.
Anyway to get choke settings to save, so you don't have to enter the value each time?
Sure - right-click your printer in Production Manager and select "Default Job Properties..." and then go to the 4th tab, Printer Options. In there you can change your choke amount to whatever you want.
Any settings you change in the Default Job Properties dialog will remain whenever you open a file.
Hello, I have problem whith white layer on Corel X5. White layer is on CMYK layer image ofc on other project layer. Color what i use is name RDG_WHITE whith overprint option. Flexi see spot color, i change it for spot_1 but printer wont print white underbase. Regards
1. In the Color Management tab for the job, make sur you're choosing a white print mode. Also make sure that the Color Mode option is set to CMYKW, assuming you're printing underflood.
2. In the Separation tab, the RDG_White spot color should be set up to print as White - not spot_1.
pleas tell how to use for dtf printing.thanks in advance
I have zero experience with any DTF print system - I think you'll have to look for advice elsewhere. Sorry!