All of us noobs really appreciate the help Gavin. Ultimately this will create a better informed and more involved community as more people turn to reloading.
Glad to hear it- was hoping that people would find this useful. I can remember when I started loading 5.56- wondering why my primers wouldn't seat (didn't know about primer pocket crimps at that time :) )
Ive been lugging my dads reloading stuff for years. Little did I know my dad used to be a pimp with his progressive reloaded haha. This is going to be a really fun learning process.
I haven’t had a single problem finding guns, ammunition, components or anything during the scamdemic. Prices went up a little but it doesn’t bother me as it keeps people from buying what I want.
Things can be found. But my experience for east coast usa, looking online, is you have to look 3xs harder than you before. Haven't looked brick n mortar yet
Gavin, I began reloading by learning what I could from several sources. My local gunsmith/gun shop guy advised me to get a reloading manual and to read it before making any decisions. At the time, about 3 years back, I had a couple 9mm pistols and a couple 5.56x45mm rifles and I bought 3,000 124 grain 9mm NATO rounds for $199 per thousand and 3000 Federal L.C. 5.56x45mm 62grain "green tip" rounds for $299 per thousand. I was interested in handloading but there really wasn't a financial benefit that I could use to help justify the purchase of the equipment. I did read the Lyman reloading manual and its counterpart; the Lyman AR15 reloading manual and I started watching your channel, Ultimate Reloader. This was about 2½ years back. I finally started buying equipment about a year ago when things were just starting to become scarce. I was able to get everything I needed and I have thoroughly enjoyed handloading ever since. I now load for 9mm, 10mm, 45 Auto, 5.56, 300BLK and .458 SOCOM. I have an HK91 but I don't load for it because I have a surplus of Wolf steel case ammo that I bought dirt cheap 2 years back and because I have been told that the fluted chamber weakens the brass cases making them unsuitable/unsafe for reloading. Maybe you can address that issue? Anyway, I just wanted to thank you because you have helped me tremendously over the last 2 years.
Gavin, for sizing you forgot to mention that lube is very, very important. Mix of lanolin and isopropyl works best. Hopefully no novice reloader will start sizing without case lube applied :)
Lots of luck finding isopropyl alcohol these days. Distilleries have switched from making vodka to isopropyl and making money as the many hand-sanitizer companies are buying up all they can. Perhaps this nonsense will fade now that the vaccination rates are climbing.
@@jekemi2010 prices went down, at least in my country (Slovakia, europe). Recently I bought 2 litres and my friend at the counter had a price of almost 3x of what it cost reulary, but he got it down to regular price as he said it was an old price during panic buys. I use that isopropyl to many things, it’s all purpose solution in home, just like winegar.
One bottle of ISO HEET red to one ounce of liquid lanolin. ISO HEET found at auto parts store. Liquid lanolin found at Natural market. Place batch of brass in large plastic bag, such as a Ziplock, several sprays from your spray bottle then close and shake. Pour out on old terry cloth towel and ready to go in minutes. Alcohol evaporates quickly and lube is not excessive.
@@Preceptor-lf1ht iso heet is isopropyl. No such thing in my country as iso heet and I would never buy overpriced marketing crap when pure isopropyl can be easily found in stores specialized for lab chemistry.
Excellent video. I've been introducing a family member to reloading over the past couple years and she just now started on rifle (.223 specifically) - perfect timing. Please add shirts in 2XL.
Gavin, you make it sound like is very easy and simple, which I think it is once you get to know all details about the loads, dimensions, setting up of the equipment, and so forth...for newbies like me, I guess reloading is still intimidating a bit, initial costs, and specially with the fact that any small forgotten detail might bring you some huge safety implications....but I guess if you want to squeeze the maximum performance of your gun / cartridge, there is only one way to go, and that is reloading....thanks for your hard work on making these videos look simple and intuitive.
I personally like to use 2 Single Stage presses myself. I have witnessed several sports shooters have failed consistency and as a result no powder (Squib) or a high primer in revolver causing lock ups. IMO speed kills. especially with un careful people running the presses too fast not checking as you go.
One very important part of sizing is case lube. I used to use the (Easy) One Shot case lube and a lot of people get along fine with it but I've stuck several cases using it so I went to the Imperial Case Wax and haven't looked back. Takes very little and works great.
Thank you, great video for beginners like me. I pretty much got all the info needed to start reloading. Though it seems more money than buying factory ammo. But having control and knowledge over what you shoot, is well worth it. Not to mention, that Im a sucker for this kind of work as a retiree.
It is a great overview of the process, but very much lacking in a lot of information needed to reload properly - primarily in die adjustment. Buy at least one reloading manual, preferably several, then read and understand the reloading procedures they detail.
As another new guy that's enjoying some success, you're gonna want to watch UR and JRB a lot. Both are great, though they have very different styles of instruction.
Ive been loading 223 with imr 8208xbr using 69gr hpbt. I started using it because my brother gave me an eight pound jug of it, but it seems to work very well.
Exceptional video with something for everyone. I was somewhat surprised that H335 or Winchester 748 were not listed as great performing powders. Thanks
I'm curious why Hodgdon H335 wasn't in the mix. It's sweet-spot is the 50-60 grain niche, especially in shorter barrels (10.5" to 16"). It has just enough brisance to get the bullet rapidly accelerating, yet slow enough to burnout just before muzzle exit. I can get 55gr at 2900-3000fps and 62gr at 2800-2900fps reliably.
So ive watched this video a few times since i started hand loading and Gavins videos are always a big help when i get stuck i go back to videos ive already watched
Just bought a dillon 750 to reload .223, After watching this video and many others it seems as if the first station of a progressive press is useless. Seems everyone recommends depriming before cleaning and how do you know if the case needs to be trimmed before resizing? So what I gather is depriming, sizing and trimming need to happen before you start on a progressive. That means you really only need a 3 position press. 1st station prime and powder drop, 2nd station bullet seating and third station crimping. Hell, even station 3 is not used on the dillon 750. so like I said 3 position press is all you need . Somehow feel cheated that all these steps have to happen off the press. It really doesnt seem much faster with the extra steps off press. Please tell me I am missing something. Oh yea, and with having to get rid of the crimp on 556 and all these extra stations on the press, why wouldnt they make one of them a swaging station? Considering the cost of this press and everything being an option, it sure isnt thought out well.
Thank you for an Excellent delivery of the concept, gist, substance of reloading. I really love to get into this but was always reluctant about the complexity of reloading. Now I can safely begin the acquisition...if only I can find the primer!
I’m just getting in to reloading because of you. I recently got my Dylan RL 1100 and can’t wait to start cranking out ammo! Love the channel, keep up the good work
@@Ultimatereloader I can’t help but be humbled, you’re the first and only UA-cam creator that has ever responded to my comment. After a long day at the hospital I can only give you my most sincere thanks!
thank you for the A-Z video, this really helped me under stand every step and while doing so I decided I do not need a multi stage press just buy a single and a few QD threads.
It does not include all the information for any single step. Read the reloading information in at least one reloading manual first, if the press you buy does not include detailed instructions.
Every rifle likes an exact menu. You can have 2 identical rifles that like slight different menus. With a particular Smith and Wesson sport model, I have found that a 55 grain varminter slug propelled by IMR 4895 @ 25 grains and a CCI magnum small rifle primer is the most accurate recipe.
Good comment I shoot many calibers imr 4895 is fantastic in all of them 308 wim and 243 as well as 223 and 300 savage it's the most useful powder for me
I have been using one of the Lee turret press, the classic one, and it has been working quite well. I feel a kind of hits the midpoint between my single stage press and that Dillon 550
A couple of important hings worth mentioning, 1) Bullet weights and the twist rate in the barrel, if you want to shoot bullets that are 60 grains and heavier, it's very important to make sure your barrel has a twist rate that's at least 1 twist in 7", otherwise you'll experience what's called Keyhole patterns in your groups, which is caused by lack of stabilization, and of course you'll be wasting components, and that's important these days when everything is scarce and priced much higher than it was just a year ago. 2) If you use stick powder in any caliber with a mechanical powder measure, it's better to set it about a half a grain lower than the charge listed in the reloading manual and use a powder trickler to get the precise desired measurement.
.223 is my fav cartridge. I love it. My best loads are 22.5gr Tac or 23.6gr CFE223 with a Hornady 68gr BTHP bullet. Both loads shoot 5 shot groups of 6mm (0.23 inch) at 100m (~110 yards) out of my Remington 700 Tac. 😁
Some solid advice right there... handloaders can end up chasing their own tail, keep it simple I switch from a fancy single stage press and all that jazz to the lee pro 100 with an auto disk ... carefully adjusting my seating depth for fine-tune
Dude, this is such a good video, thank you so much! Super interesting. I’m thinking about getting into precision shooting with a bolt action 5.56, and then learning to hand load, fantastic info 🔥👍🏻
Between full power loads and the equally as fun bunny farts, 223/556 is a hoot. I have my AR and the wife has her bolt action so we go through quite a bit at the range
Great video, as usual! Question: wouldn’t it be safer to remove your fingers from the case as you seat the primer? I know you are using high end equipment, BUT… if a primer goes off, I wouldn’t want my body parts anywhere near the detonation. As a retired mechanical engineer (engines) in the automotive industry I became a believer in the “anything that can conceivably go wrong (+ some inconceivable things) will eventually go wrong” school. I really like your videos because you do apply engineering methodology to your topics. Keep up the good work.
My vote would go to the 7mm PRC on this comparison, but I love the 280AI so I’d like to see the PRC and Ack Improved compared in the 7mm/.284 caliber chamberings.
Glad you talked about the case gauge. VERY IMPORTANT ico 223/5.56 .............. I use range brass and sometimes we have a 3-10% reject rate because of either bloated bases or deformed heads after punching primers. Got tired of stuck cases when I first started and still learning more as I go along. Started doing a more deliberate QC Standards check which also makes this round the biggest pain in the ass to reload. Very time consuming compared to 300 AAC, 308 and others. I use H335 with very good results in all my rifle rounds. Thanks for the video............... enjoy
My absolute best performing ammunition for Auto loading rifles with 1in7 through 1in9 twist rifled barrels, is 62gn with 22.5gn of Hodgdon H322. The groups are excellent. Whether a cheaper system or a high dollar AR, they have always shot beautifully. I load them on a Dillon 550B, sized and trimmed with a RT1500, swaged, loading for 3000 fps. This requires 5.55 NATO, or .223 Wilde. Try it for yourself, you won't be disappointed.
Gavin, I think a great idea for a video would be showing and explaining the difference between CUP and PSI when it comes to measuring pressure. A lot of reloaders read those numbers interchangeably but they are really different ways of measurement of the same thing.
I bought a RCBS Uniflow III after watching your video. I had been wanting a new powder measure for along time. My old Uniflow ( ca. 1970-ish ) was about worn out. I couldn't find it anywhere online, so I went direct to RCBS. It was in stock. Shipped free. Great upgrade. Thanks, Gavin.
Great video as usual. Looking to fibd my all around load with cfe 223 since i have alot of it. Have you done any testing with cfe? Mostly using it for service rifle matches with 1-6.5 twist ar and 77gr berger otms
I've started reloading again after 30 years and not moved to a progressive press yet I have 2 single stage presses my opinion is based on safty and consistency be safe take your time don't be afraid of a question if you're unsure
Thank you for the great content Gavin! I have a question wrt Staball 6.5: I also noticed that in the Hodgdon load data but was concerned that the burn rate could be so slow as to result in higher-than-wanted pressures at the gas port in a gas gun. Do you know if this is a legitimate concern or am I over thinking this?
On PRIMERS for either 223 Rem or 5.56 NATO. If you are shooting an AR, The firing pin does not have a spring so when the bolt goes home, the firing pin may impact the primer. FOR ARs I SERIOUSLY recommend teh CCI MIL SPEC SMALL RIFLE PRIMER (No.41) ONLY.
I reload .223 on a Lee load master. I have everything fine tuned, except the powder measure. It just won't throw a consistent charge. Can you recommend a powder measure that will work well with the load master? Thank you.
If you're using a mechanical cylinder type powder measure, as mentioned in the video, it's better to set the measure at about 1/2 grain lower than the load recommended in the reloading manual and use a powder trickler, especially if stick powder is used after loading every case. Seven years ago I invested in the RCBS Chargemaster electronic powder measure, which dispenses the gun powder onto a tray that sits on an electronic scale, the powder weight is preset/programmed into the measure, and it provides precise and consistent measurements with every case. I paid around $325 back then, there are others made by Hornady and Lyman and of course just like everything else, they're priced higher now, but they're worth it.
So I just got a lee precision press and dies in 223, I keep running into getting cases stuck even though I have been making sure my cases are properly lubed. Could it be I am trying to reload cases that were shot in an out of spec(too large) chamber and I am having trouble resizing them because of it?
Great Video Gavin. Appreciate the time you take to help new folk who are just getting started (and us old folk). I recently started loading .223. I resized 50 brass cases (once shot range brass with mixed head stamps). I noticed, out of the 50 cases, there were 30 or so that did not pass the case gage test. I looked to be sure there was no sign of case head separation. I have since found there is a Small Base Resizing Die to be used on cases being fired out of a semi automatic rifle. Have you (or anyone on this thread) had any experience with these dies (RCBS 11103 Series A Small Base Die Set, 223 Remington)? Thanks again!
Great stuff like all your videos. I would add 2 items . Measure the fired case datum for your rifle and bump the shoulder .002 shorter than fired case . I also have great results with the RCBS small base dies for the gas guns. Keep up the good work sir !!
*stares at the massive pile of 223 brass, 55gr and 77gr bullets, and 6 different powders that arrived today to reload for my AR* You haven't been watching me have you? What did I have for breakfast?
discord.gg/reloading You can get notified when primers, powder, bullets, brass or anything comes in stock. Easily the worst thing for my wallet I've ever done
When reloading .223/5.56 you don't flare out the cases mouth to partially insert the bullet? You hold the bullet and case as long as you can until the bullet goes into the seating die, then the die aligns or guides the bullet into the case? Is this correct?
Hey buddy. You have been a great inspiration on my reloading journey. My question is what difference does it make to sort the brass by head stamp? I understand the differences between 223 and 5.56 but if I’m reloading 223 why would it be important to sort my 223 by headstamp? I appreciate your feedback. Thanks.
Don’t hear you reference lubing your cases when sizing/ removing primers. That’s a step i use so cases won’t get stuck in my die. Doing that also requires an additional case cleaning before proceeding to remaining steps? Also I have a question regarding load info between 223/5.56. I’m shooting both an AR in 223 Wylde and a Remington 700 bolt action rifle. Can I use the same load in 223 and 5.56 with no issues provided I have tested for overpressure with loads and have found OAL that feeds reliably?
When did Barnes come out with a 77gr match burner? Saw them yesterday, I love the little 52 match burners. Hopefully they weren’t just a one off trial run.
Use a flash hole deburr tool....only has to be done once and you will have a slight but noticeable increase in accuracy. Cases must be deprimed in order to deburr the flash hole. Choose the one you like....Lyman, Sinclair, RCBS, Redding, among others make these tools.
Where does it load the primer on that progressive? I know you said station 1 was sizing and de-primer. Station 2 was powder. I figured the primer would have been done by that point?
Question regarding progressive presses- you must use stage 1 (resize and deprime) as a single stage press... Right? I'm looking to start the hobby (for 223 specifically) and don't know how the resizing die goes into the process if a case needs to be trimmed immediately afterwords
Reloading since early 1980s. I do a LOT of "plinking" loads on the Dillon 550 and do my precision loading (6.5 PRC and 308Win) on the RCBS single stage. I anneal cases for the precision rifle loads but wonder if it'd be worth annealing case mouth for 223? Only reason to ask is that I'm already setup for annealing and it's pretty easy with the Annealeez... or am I just wasting my time? If I get more case life with annealing, I'm all for it (especially with today's ammo insanity)
Great video, first and foremost. While you provide a great deal of content, it's all extremely important while not boring! I do, however, have a question with some of the breakaway podwers like Shooters World. Have you looked into it, or are you going to do any studies? I'm currently using a load of 24 gr SW TAC RIFLE, COAL: 2.240 (Trimmed as you provided in your video to 1.760), CCI SM Rifle Primers, and 55 gr FMJ and/or 55gr AMAX (all based ob availability). I'm just looking for your thoughts if you have a free moment. Thanks, and keep up the great work.
To my understanding, and per the Rep I talked with a CCI, for the AR platform, you should use small rifle magnum or #41 primers due to the free floating firing pins.
The CCI #41 primer is mil-spec and has a slightly thicker cup to prevent slam-fires. I, personally don't use anything but #41s for all small rifle primer applications. I've also found that Hodgdon BL-C2 to be a somewhat "universal powder". I use it exclusively for 5.56/.223, 7.62/.308, & .30-'06... I try to stay with "universal" components, because I buy in bulk (think 25# kegs of powder and brass by the 16gl drum)... I reload for myself and 20 other people in a training group...
All of us noobs really appreciate the help Gavin. Ultimately this will create a better informed and more involved community as more people turn to reloading.
Glad to hear it- was hoping that people would find this useful. I can remember when I started loading 5.56- wondering why my primers wouldn't seat (didn't know about primer pocket crimps at that time :) )
False... This will only create more difficulty in me sourcing h1000, reloder 26 and primers
Ive been lugging my dads reloading stuff for years. Little did I know my dad used to be a pimp with his progressive reloaded haha. This is going to be a really fun learning process.
Part 1 of this series find primers, we will see you in part 2 in 2024.
Even in germany primers are getting scarce. You guy are buying even our manufacturers supply. No offence, i got what i needed when it was cheap.
And powders those are getting thin on the ground to
I haven’t had a single problem finding guns, ammunition, components or anything during the scamdemic. Prices went up a little but it doesn’t bother me as it keeps people from buying what I want.
Things can be found. But my experience for east coast usa, looking online, is you have to look 3xs harder than you before. Haven't looked brick n mortar yet
For real hahahahahaha
Gavin, I began reloading by learning what I could from several sources. My local gunsmith/gun shop guy advised me to get a reloading manual and to read it before making any decisions. At the time, about 3 years back, I had a couple 9mm pistols and a couple 5.56x45mm rifles and I bought 3,000 124 grain 9mm NATO rounds for $199 per thousand and 3000 Federal L.C. 5.56x45mm 62grain "green tip" rounds for $299 per thousand. I was interested in handloading but there really wasn't a financial benefit that I could use to help justify the purchase of the equipment. I did read the Lyman reloading manual and its counterpart; the Lyman AR15 reloading manual and I started watching your channel, Ultimate Reloader. This was about 2½ years back. I finally started buying equipment about a year ago when things were just starting to become scarce. I was able to get everything I needed and I have thoroughly enjoyed handloading ever since. I now load for 9mm, 10mm, 45 Auto, 5.56, 300BLK and .458 SOCOM. I have an HK91 but I don't load for it because I have a surplus of Wolf steel case ammo that I bought dirt cheap 2 years back and because I have been told that the fluted chamber weakens the brass cases making them unsuitable/unsafe for reloading. Maybe you can address that issue? Anyway, I just wanted to thank you because you have helped me tremendously over the last 2 years.
I have been reloading for 25 years, and I truly appreciate the depth of the information you provide. Impressive.
Gavin, for sizing you forgot to mention that lube is very, very important. Mix of lanolin and isopropyl works best.
Hopefully no novice reloader will start sizing without case lube applied :)
and buy the good iso 90 percent. so it dries fast. good point
Lots of luck finding isopropyl alcohol these days. Distilleries have switched from making vodka to isopropyl and making money as the many hand-sanitizer companies are buying up all they can. Perhaps this nonsense will fade now that the vaccination rates are climbing.
@@jekemi2010 prices went down, at least in my country (Slovakia, europe). Recently I bought 2 litres and my friend at the counter had a price of almost 3x of what it cost reulary, but he got it down to regular price as he said it was an old price during panic buys.
I use that isopropyl to many things, it’s all purpose solution in home, just like winegar.
One bottle of ISO HEET red to one ounce of liquid lanolin. ISO HEET found at auto parts store. Liquid lanolin found at Natural market. Place batch of brass in large plastic bag, such as a Ziplock, several sprays from your spray bottle then close and shake. Pour out on old terry cloth towel and ready to go in minutes. Alcohol evaporates quickly and lube is not excessive.
@@Preceptor-lf1ht iso heet is isopropyl. No such thing in my country as iso heet and I would never buy overpriced marketing crap when pure isopropyl can be easily found in stores specialized for lab chemistry.
I am very new to reloading and I am also very keen on 223 reloads. Your videos are a TREMENDOUS help Gavin so thank you and cheers from South Africa.
S321 gives excellent results with light to heavy bullets. Start low and work up, as S321 can give pressure signs fast approaching max loads.
Excellent video. I've been introducing a family member to reloading over the past couple years and she just now started on rifle (.223 specifically) - perfect timing. Please add shirts in 2XL.
Gavin, you make it sound like is very easy and simple, which I think it is once you get to know all details about the loads, dimensions, setting up of the equipment, and so forth...for newbies like me, I guess reloading is still intimidating a bit, initial costs, and specially with the fact that any small forgotten detail might bring you some huge safety implications....but I guess if you want to squeeze the maximum performance of your gun / cartridge, there is only one way to go, and that is reloading....thanks for your hard work on making these videos look simple and intuitive.
Reloading manuals are a good resource also. Usually lots of great info in them get several and read through them.
I personally like to use 2 Single Stage presses myself. I have witnessed several sports shooters have failed consistency and as a result no powder (Squib) or a high primer in revolver causing lock ups. IMO speed kills. especially with un careful people running the presses too fast not checking as you go.
One very important part of sizing is case lube. I used to use the (Easy) One Shot case lube and a lot of people get along fine with it but I've stuck several cases using it so I went to the Imperial Case Wax and haven't looked back. Takes very little and works great.
wow, that is insane velocity on that 35 grn !
Thank you, great video for beginners like me. I pretty much got all the info needed to start reloading. Though it seems more money than buying factory ammo. But having control and knowledge over what you shoot, is well worth it. Not to mention, that Im a sucker for this kind of work as a retiree.
For me it's the journey or the enjoyment from doing it.
It is a great overview of the process, but very much lacking in a lot of information needed to reload properly - primarily in die adjustment. Buy at least one reloading manual, preferably several, then read and understand the reloading procedures they detail.
Just got my first press...got everything I need...now I just need to learn how to do it..so excited
As another new guy that's enjoying some success, you're gonna want to watch UR and JRB a lot. Both are great, though they have very different styles of instruction.
Same but how tf r u finding the reloading supplies
@@johndaley1210 I got to know the shipment schedules of the local stores and check each one on the expected days.
Gavin's channel is the #1 re-loading channel. Thanks again Gavin, great info!
That's gospel, keep it up Gavin.
I have loaded a bunch of handgun ammo on the RL550B but 556 will be my first rifle round on it. Thanks for sharing!
Im 1 minute in and already learned so much. Love this guy.
Very nicely done, looking forward to more videos like this from you. Keep up the good work.
More to come!
Ive been loading 223 with imr 8208xbr using 69gr hpbt. I started using it because my brother gave me an eight pound jug of it, but it seems to work very well.
Haven't finished it yet, but this is such a wonderful video...well done!
Thank you so much! We put a lot of time and effort into this one!
@@Ultimatereloader oh I can tell! Thanks again😊
Exceptional video with something for everyone. I was somewhat surprised that H335 or Winchester 748 were not listed as great performing powders. Thanks
lol, you can get cci primers from my buddy Robert, he lives in Phoenix though and he's got Hazmat, 6 zero 2 six 984 three 94. text him
I'm curious why Hodgdon H335 wasn't in the mix. It's sweet-spot is the 50-60 grain niche, especially in shorter barrels (10.5" to 16"). It has just enough brisance to get the bullet rapidly accelerating, yet slow enough to burnout just before muzzle exit. I can get 55gr at 2900-3000fps and 62gr at 2800-2900fps reliably.
What charge weight?
That's the powder I use 23 grains
So ive watched this video a few times since i started hand loading and Gavins videos are always a big help when i get stuck i go back to videos ive already watched
Just bought a dillon 750 to reload .223, After watching this video and many others it seems as if the first station of a progressive press is useless. Seems everyone recommends depriming before cleaning and how do you know if the case needs to be trimmed before resizing? So what I gather is depriming, sizing and trimming need to happen before you start on a progressive. That means you really only need a 3 position press. 1st station prime and powder drop, 2nd station bullet seating and third station crimping. Hell, even station 3 is not used on the dillon 750. so like I said 3 position press is all you need . Somehow feel cheated that all these steps have to happen off the press. It really doesnt seem much faster with the extra steps off press. Please tell me I am missing something. Oh yea, and with having to get rid of the crimp on 556 and all these extra stations on the press, why wouldnt they make one of them a swaging station? Considering the cost of this press and everything being an option, it sure isnt thought out well.
Thank you for an Excellent delivery of the concept, gist, substance of reloading. I really love to get into this but was always reluctant about the complexity of reloading. Now I can safely begin the acquisition...if only I can find the primer!
I’m just getting in to reloading because of you. I recently got my Dylan RL 1100 and can’t wait to start cranking out ammo! Love the channel, keep up the good work
Awesome! Glad I could help to get you going!
@@Ultimatereloader I can’t help but be humbled, you’re the first and only UA-cam creator that has ever responded to my comment. After a long day at the hospital I can only give you my most sincere thanks!
lol, you can get cci primers from my buddy Robert, he lives in Phoenix though and he's got Hazmat, 6 zero 2 six 984 three 94. text him
My go to combination for the AR 15 is CCI 41 primers, 22 gr. H335 and 62 grain SS109 or 62 gr. Hollow points.
thank you for the A-Z video, this really helped me under stand every step and while doing so I decided I do not need a multi stage press just buy a single and a few QD threads.
It does not include all the information for any single step. Read the reloading information in at least one reloading manual first, if the press you buy does not include detailed instructions.
Every rifle likes an exact menu. You can have 2 identical rifles that like slight different menus. With a particular Smith and Wesson sport model, I have found that a 55 grain varminter slug propelled by IMR 4895 @ 25 grains and a CCI magnum small rifle primer is the most accurate recipe.
Good comment I shoot many calibers imr 4895 is fantastic in all of them 308 wim and 243 as well as 223 and 300 savage it's the most useful powder for me
Awesome Intro Gavin! Thanks for the write up and video on this topic!
Glad you liked it!!!
Thank you, I've been waiting for this video for a while.
I have been using one of the Lee turret press, the classic one, and it has been working quite well. I feel a kind of hits the midpoint between my single stage press and that Dillon 550
Yep. I have that press too. Does everything except my 30-06.
A couple of important hings worth mentioning, 1) Bullet weights and the twist rate in the barrel, if you want to shoot bullets that are 60 grains and heavier, it's very important to make sure your barrel has a twist rate that's at least 1 twist in 7", otherwise you'll experience what's called Keyhole patterns in your groups, which is caused by lack of stabilization, and of course you'll be wasting components, and that's important these days when everything is scarce and priced much higher than it was just a year ago.
2) If you use stick powder in any caliber with a mechanical powder measure, it's better to set it about a half a grain lower than the charge listed in the reloading manual and use a powder trickler to get the precise desired measurement.
.223 is my fav cartridge. I love it. My best loads are 22.5gr Tac or 23.6gr CFE223 with a Hornady 68gr
BTHP bullet. Both loads shoot 5 shot groups of 6mm (0.23 inch) at 100m (~110 yards) out of my Remington 700 Tac. 😁
Most of the information in this video is based on AR 15 rds
When the intro music starts, ya get up to rock! Then Gavin starts talking, so we set right back down.
A prayer answered.Thank you.
Some solid advice right there... handloaders can end up chasing their own tail, keep it simple I switch from a fancy single stage press and all that jazz to the lee pro 100 with an auto disk ... carefully adjusting my seating depth for fine-tune
Dude, this is such a good video, thank you so much! Super interesting. I’m thinking about getting into precision shooting with a bolt action 5.56, and then learning to hand load, fantastic info 🔥👍🏻
Thank you, Thank you. What a great breakdown. Clear and concise instructions.
Between full power loads and the equally as fun bunny farts, 223/556 is a hoot. I have my AR and the wife has her bolt action so we go through quite a bit at the range
This is one of my favorite videos from you, well done and thank you!
Great video, as usual!
Question: wouldn’t it be safer to remove your fingers from the case as you seat the primer? I know you are using high end equipment, BUT… if a primer goes off, I wouldn’t want my body parts anywhere near the detonation. As a retired mechanical engineer (engines) in the automotive industry I became a believer in the “anything that can conceivably go wrong (+ some inconceivable things) will eventually go wrong” school.
I really like your videos because you do apply engineering methodology to your topics. Keep up the good work.
lol, you can get cci primers from my buddy Robert, he lives in Phoenix though and he's got Hazmat, 6 zero 2 six 984 three 94. text him
My vote would go to the 7mm PRC on this comparison, but I love the 280AI so I’d like to see the PRC and Ack Improved compared in the 7mm/.284 caliber chamberings.
Everyone I see using nice new equipment and I'm over here with stuff from the 60s and 70s
If it works who cares....
The best video, start to finish it had all the information I needed. Thank you.
Glad you talked about the case gauge. VERY IMPORTANT ico 223/5.56 .............. I use range brass and sometimes we have a 3-10% reject rate because of either bloated bases or deformed heads after punching primers. Got tired of stuck cases when I first started and still learning more as I go along. Started doing a more deliberate QC Standards check which also makes this round the biggest pain in the ass to reload. Very time consuming compared to 300 AAC, 308 and others. I use H335 with very good results in all my rifle rounds.
Thanks for the video............... enjoy
H335 charge weight and projectile for 223?
@@cs7285 I replied on facebook. Couldn't post any more here on UA-cam on your blog...................... Till now... Was blocked from a reply
My absolute best performing ammunition for Auto loading rifles with 1in7 through 1in9 twist rifled barrels, is 62gn with 22.5gn of Hodgdon H322. The groups are excellent. Whether a cheaper system or a high dollar AR, they have always shot beautifully. I load them on a Dillon 550B, sized and trimmed with a RT1500, swaged, loading for 3000 fps. This requires 5.55 NATO, or .223 Wilde. Try it for yourself, you won't be disappointed.
Gavin, I think a great idea for a video would be showing and explaining the difference between CUP and PSI when it comes to measuring pressure. A lot of reloaders read those numbers interchangeably but they are really different ways of measurement of the same thing.
EVERYONE SHOULD HEAR THIS TODAY 556 RIFLE
Another great video, thanks! Will you be making one for 9mm as well?
Hell yeah just about to to get started on 223/556 been working 308, 9mm and 45acp
I bought a RCBS Uniflow III after watching your video. I had been wanting a new powder measure for along time. My old Uniflow ( ca. 1970-ish ) was about worn out. I couldn't find it anywhere online, so I went direct to RCBS. It was in stock. Shipped free. Great upgrade. Thanks, Gavin.
Great video as usual. Looking to fibd my all around load with cfe 223 since i have alot of it. Have you done any testing with cfe? Mostly using it for service rifle matches with 1-6.5 twist ar and 77gr berger otms
also curious about CFE223. I hear it's alright, it's all I can find right now for a decent price
@@the_kingd0m where can you find cfe223, i have been looking for that for a while now, and got no luck :(
You are an excellent teacher!
Thanks for sharing
You should do a 22 rimfire benchrest build
Great info for all the people getting into rifle reloading. Still waiting on that progressive press comparison!
I've started reloading again after 30 years and not moved to a progressive press yet I have 2 single stage presses my opinion is based on safty and consistency be safe take your time don't be afraid of a question if you're unsure
Thank you for the great content Gavin! I have a question wrt Staball 6.5: I also noticed that in the Hodgdon load data but was concerned that the burn rate could be so slow as to result in higher-than-wanted pressures at the gas port in a gas gun. Do you know if this is a legitimate concern or am I over thinking this?
Stay within the published load data and work up loads watching for issues and pressure signs. Good luck
On PRIMERS for either 223 Rem or 5.56 NATO. If you are shooting an AR, The firing pin does not have a spring so when the bolt goes home, the firing pin may impact the primer. FOR ARs I SERIOUSLY recommend teh CCI MIL SPEC SMALL RIFLE PRIMER (No.41) ONLY.
I reload .223 on a Lee load master. I have everything fine tuned, except the powder measure. It just won't throw a consistent charge. Can you recommend a powder measure that will work well with the load master? Thank you.
If you're using a mechanical cylinder type powder measure, as mentioned in the video, it's better to set the measure at about 1/2 grain lower than the load recommended in the reloading manual and use a powder trickler, especially if stick powder is used after loading every case. Seven years ago I invested in the RCBS Chargemaster electronic powder measure, which dispenses the gun powder onto a tray that sits on an electronic scale, the powder weight is preset/programmed into the measure, and it provides precise and consistent measurements with every case. I paid around $325 back then, there are others made by Hornady and Lyman and of course just like everything else, they're priced higher now, but they're worth it.
Would def like to see more videos like this.
Thanks, more in the works!
@@Ultimatereloader would really like to see an educational video on burn rates and powder choices more in depth
So I just got a lee precision press and dies in 223, I keep running into getting cases stuck even though I have been making sure my cases are properly lubed. Could it be I am trying to reload cases that were shot in an out of spec(too large) chamber and I am having trouble resizing them because of it?
Great Video Gavin. Appreciate the time you take to help new folk who are just getting started (and us old folk). I recently started loading .223. I resized 50 brass cases (once shot range brass with mixed head stamps). I noticed, out of the 50 cases, there were 30 or so that did not pass the case gage test. I looked to be sure there was no sign of case head separation. I have since found there is a Small Base Resizing Die to be used on cases being fired out of a semi automatic rifle. Have you (or anyone on this thread) had any experience with these dies (RCBS 11103 Series A Small Base Die Set, 223 Remington)? Thanks again!
Great stuff like all your videos. I would add 2 items . Measure the fired case datum for your rifle and bump the shoulder .002 shorter than fired case . I also have great results with the RCBS small base dies for the gas guns. Keep up the good work sir !!
Awesome video. Thanks for taking the time to make it.
I was surprised you never mentioned H335 for 5.56 powder.
Had the same thought
Currently waiting on my 223 dies. This video is very helpful
*stares at the massive pile of 223 brass, 55gr and 77gr bullets, and 6 different powders that arrived today to reload for my AR* You haven't been watching me have you? What did I have for breakfast?
Shenanigans,, where did you get primers and powder?
discord.gg/reloading You can get notified when primers, powder, bullets, brass or anything comes in stock. Easily the worst thing for my wallet I've ever done
@@shanesizemore3654 Yep, my 8lbs of H4350 arrived today that I snagged thanks to the Discord.
@@HuskyKMA You lucky dog.
For range ammo I use mixed brass but trim all cases the same length, otherwise the seating/crimp will not be consistent.
Also gauge the flash hole. If to large it can blow primer out.
Thanks for the distinctions. Great video.
I enjoy watching you video. It’s interesting to see you use Alex stock. He builds a great rifle
Awesome, thanks for watching Ed. You'll like where this is going! :)
When reloading .223/5.56 you don't flare out the cases mouth to partially insert the bullet? You hold the bullet and case as long as you can until the bullet goes into the seating die, then the die aligns or guides the bullet into the case? Is this correct?
Hey buddy. You have been a great inspiration on my reloading journey. My question is what difference does it make to sort the brass by head stamp? I understand the differences between 223 and 5.56 but if I’m reloading 223 why would it be important to sort my 223 by headstamp? I appreciate your feedback. Thanks.
The new term for rhythm is now MOJO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thank you Tom Kenny
Don’t hear you reference lubing your cases when sizing/ removing primers. That’s a step i use so cases won’t get stuck in my die. Doing that also requires an additional case cleaning before proceeding to remaining steps?
Also I have a question regarding load info between 223/5.56. I’m shooting both an AR in 223 Wylde and a Remington 700 bolt action rifle. Can I use the same load in 223 and 5.56 with no issues provided I have tested for overpressure with loads and have found OAL that feeds reliably?
Great video using common tools. Thanks!
Primers are back!!!
Well said and very thorough! Bravo 👏
Would I be using a 224 55gr projectile as a 5.56, or do I reload the 223 55gr projectiles?
I am currently using H322 and H 4895 for 55g - 68g bullets with good results.
Hope you can do a video specifically on setting up and using Hornady crimping die
Hornady has videos on all their stuff on UA-cam . Learned how to set them up with them.
When did Barnes come out with a 77gr match burner? Saw them yesterday, I love the little 52 match burners. Hopefully they weren’t just a one off trial run.
Use a flash hole deburr tool....only has to be done once and you will have a slight but noticeable increase in accuracy. Cases must be deprimed in order to deburr the flash hole. Choose the one you like....Lyman, Sinclair, RCBS, Redding, among others make these tools.
Thanks very much. A very good video 👍
Where does it load the primer on that progressive? I know you said station 1 was sizing and de-primer. Station 2 was powder. I figured the primer would have been done by that point?
Thank you for another awesome video.
Intro music a million times better
Looks informative and educational. Well done sir.
Question regarding progressive presses- you must use stage 1 (resize and deprime) as a single stage press... Right? I'm looking to start the hobby (for 223 specifically) and don't know how the resizing die goes into the process if a case needs to be trimmed immediately afterwords
Excellent video! Thank you!
Another excellent video Gavin!!!
Weird, I've used H335 (on my 17th 8 pound tub) for 223REM loads.
Very surprised, not aention by your Hodgson rep??
Reloading since early 1980s. I do a LOT of "plinking" loads on the Dillon 550 and do my precision loading (6.5 PRC and 308Win) on the RCBS single stage. I anneal cases for the precision rifle loads but wonder if it'd be worth annealing case mouth for 223? Only reason to ask is that I'm already setup for annealing and it's pretty easy with the Annealeez... or am I just wasting my time? If I get more case life with annealing, I'm all for it (especially with today's ammo insanity)
Im glad you made this video 👍🏼
Great video, first and foremost. While you provide a great deal of content, it's all extremely important while not boring! I do, however, have a question with some of the breakaway podwers like Shooters World. Have you looked into it, or are you going to do any studies? I'm currently using a load of 24 gr SW TAC RIFLE, COAL: 2.240 (Trimmed as you provided in your video to 1.760), CCI SM Rifle Primers, and 55 gr FMJ and/or 55gr AMAX (all based ob availability). I'm just looking for your thoughts if you have a free moment. Thanks, and keep up the great work.
To my understanding, and per the Rep I talked with a CCI, for the AR platform, you should use small rifle magnum or #41 primers due to the free floating firing pins.
The CCI #41 primer is mil-spec and has a slightly thicker cup to prevent slam-fires. I, personally don't use anything but #41s for all small rifle primer applications. I've also found that Hodgdon BL-C2 to be a somewhat "universal powder". I use it exclusively for 5.56/.223, 7.62/.308, & .30-'06... I try to stay with "universal" components, because I buy in bulk (think 25# kegs of powder and brass by the 16gl drum)... I reload for myself and 20 other people in a training group...
@@tommysaulter9171 do you mind me asking where you get those items at? Never seen brass or power in those sizes before.
I have a RCBS turret press and like it very much.
So you don't have to worry about powder charge weight every time you pull that handle your powder doesn't change buy a grain or two or three?
You forgot the Lube, which is very important.... but overall well made and well informed video, well done!