I love quick instructions without a ton of self promotion and chatter. Thank you very much. Looks like even with a short video it took me longer to watch the video than it will take to install these.
I have been waiting over 5 years for someone else to install this item. Watched your video and did the job in 2 minutes! 😆 So crazy simple. Thank you! Off to the next item on my "To Do" list. Ladies, we can "Get'r Done!" I'm also learning to patch the drywall holes. I got this 😁💪
Thanks for watching and your input. Yes ladies you can "Get'r Done " I have a lot of videos for patching drywall holes. If you need them I can send you the links.
Thank you for this excellent video! 😊 My laundry room door was able to swing open and hit a table I just added to my studio. A Hinge Pin doorstop was a terrific solution. Besides needing to pick away some dried paint on the hinge, it was an easy installation, due to your clear instructions. Now, with the hinge pin door stop installed, the door won't go bump into the table. Problem solved!
I'm a General Contractor, specializing in finish carpentry. After 40 years of hanging thousands of doors and repairing their problems, I will have to disagree with Jim's solution to limiting the swing of a door. Those hinge-pin bumpers can easily fracture a door jamb if the door swings too far due to high leverage caused by the short distance from the fulcrum (in this case, from the hinge pin). When I see them installed at a customer's house, I always tell them that I would like to remove it and throw it as far a distance as I can. There are other, better solutions: 1. First choice would always be a common "door stop" that screws into the baseboard. I'm speaking of a rigid shaft with a small rubber bumper at the outer end where it meets the door, an inch or two above the floor. 2. Second choice for the situation in Jim's video would be a rubber bumper attached to the side of the cabinet so it contacts the door at the very top or very bottom as it swings open. These are usually a round 'dome' with a peel-off adhesive backing. Many doors today are hollow, so you want to make sure the bumper contacts the door at some point around the perimeter frame within the door where you have some "meat". This will prevent breaking a hole in the unsupported face of the door over time. 3. If there is no way to use the baseboard door stop or bumper mentioned above, the third alternative would be a "floor stop". This is a small round fixture with a rubber flat face that screws down to the floor and acts as a bumper so the door can't swing past its location. The downside with these are they can be a trip hazard, although they are always placed out of the traffic flow. So, think beyond these hinge-pin devices which can cause you a lot of grief when (not if) they go wrong!
What would you recommend for a door that has a large glass door cabinet behind it? ( moving the cabinet is not an option, I tried to convince my mother to simply not put anything there.) The door sits too high off the ground for the floor stop. It is a glass patio door with metal frame. It's my mom's door and she leaves it cracked open in the summer so her cats can go in and out but my dogs will ram it open from time to time if I'm not holding them. We were thinking the hinge pin stop would be the best option for us. What would you recommend? Thank you in advance.
I'm not sure if you'll see this Bob. In my case they aren't going to ruin the s*"" door install that already occurred by the previous owners.. screwing the stopper into the baseboard isn't as flexible? Some of the doors can swing more freely than others if that makes sense.
My door opens into the new stainless steel refrigerator and none of those three solutions would work. So this broken door jam is least evil compared to dented fridge.
I love quick instructions without a ton of self promotion and chatter. Thank you very much. Looks like even with a short video it took me longer to watch the video than it will take to install these.
I have been waiting over 5 years for someone else to install this item. Watched your video and did the job in 2 minutes! 😆 So crazy simple. Thank you! Off to the next item on my "To Do" list. Ladies, we can "Get'r Done!" I'm also learning to patch the drywall holes. I got this 😁💪
Thanks for watching and your input. Yes ladies you can "Get'r Done " I have a lot of videos for patching drywall holes. If you need them I can send you the links.
I just became a first time home owner & never had to do this before so I appreciate the easy to follow and quick video! 🙌🏾
Glad it was helpful! Subscribe to my channel for more advice. If you need any further advice just ask.
Thank you, sir. Couldn't have done it without your hammer and nail trick.
Glad to help
Thank you for this excellent video! 😊 My laundry room door was able to swing open and hit a table I just added to my studio. A Hinge Pin doorstop was a terrific solution. Besides needing to pick away some dried paint on the hinge, it was an easy installation, due to your clear instructions. Now, with the hinge pin door stop installed, the door won't go bump into the table. Problem solved!
Great job!
Going to Ace to pick one up today but wanted to know how to install it before buying one. Thanks for the help. God bless!!
Thank you!😊
You're welcome 😊
Used this video to get an old one out that was doing more damage than good, thanks!
Glad it helped!
I was having that problem and found your video. Thank you Sir!
Glad it helped
Thank you. I actually have those same kitchen cabinets. Just changed all the hardware and door hinges to silver from a former gold.
That is awesome!
Super helpful
Glad it helped
Thanks
No problem
Thank you!!!!!!!
You're welcome!
I'm a General Contractor, specializing in finish carpentry. After 40 years of hanging thousands of doors and repairing their problems, I will have to disagree with Jim's solution to limiting the swing of a door. Those hinge-pin bumpers can easily fracture a door jamb if the door swings too far due to high leverage caused by the short distance from the fulcrum (in this case, from the hinge pin). When I see them installed at a customer's house, I always tell them that I would like to remove it and throw it as far a distance as I can. There are other, better solutions:
1. First choice would always be a common "door stop" that screws into the baseboard. I'm speaking of a rigid shaft with a small rubber bumper at the outer end where it meets the door, an inch or two above the floor.
2. Second choice for the situation in Jim's video would be a rubber bumper attached to the side of the cabinet so it contacts the door at the very top or very bottom as it swings open. These are usually a round 'dome' with a peel-off adhesive backing. Many doors today are hollow, so you want to make sure the bumper contacts the door at some point around the perimeter frame within the door where you have some "meat". This will prevent breaking a hole in the unsupported face of the door over time.
3. If there is no way to use the baseboard door stop or bumper mentioned above, the third alternative would be a "floor stop". This is a small round fixture with a rubber flat face that screws down to the floor and acts as a bumper so the door can't swing past its location. The downside with these are they can be a trip hazard, although they are always placed out of the traffic flow.
So, think beyond these hinge-pin devices which can cause you a lot of grief when (not if) they go wrong!
Thanks for watching
Next time you see one let me know I’ll help you get rid of them they’ll end up at my house I need a couple of them!!!!!!!!!
What would you recommend for a door that has a large glass door cabinet behind it? ( moving the cabinet is not an option, I tried to convince my mother to simply not put anything there.) The door sits too high off the ground for the floor stop. It is a glass patio door with metal frame. It's my mom's door and she leaves it cracked open in the summer so her cats can go in and out but my dogs will ram it open from time to time if I'm not holding them. We were thinking the hinge pin stop would be the best option for us. What would you recommend? Thank you in advance.
I'm not sure if you'll see this Bob. In my case they aren't going to ruin the s*"" door install that already occurred by the previous owners.. screwing the stopper into the baseboard isn't as flexible? Some of the doors can swing more freely than others if that makes sense.
My door opens into the new stainless steel refrigerator and none of those three solutions would work. So this broken door jam is least evil compared to dented fridge.
Clear and simple. Thank you. And thanks for the tip about the nail. It helped.
Thanks for watching.
Thank you so much for this!
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for the tip and tutorial!
Happy to help!Thanks for watching. Don't forget to sub.
Great video with clear instructions
Thank you Maestro 🙏🏻
You are very welcome
Awesome man. Thanks! I had to do 10 of these today.
Glad I could help!
Excellent video. 🔥
Glad you liked it!
Good vid, thanks for the upload!
Glad you enjoyed it!
perfecr
Thank you so much! This was a huge help!
You're welcome!
I learned something new-thank you!!!
You are so welcome!
Thank you!
You're welcome!
Great stuff thank you!
Glad you liked it!
I have problems with these things damaging doors and molding. Any suggestions to avoid that problem?
Thanks!!
Thanks for watching. I'm happy to help.
Installing one in my sister’s house. The pin trick was great!
Great to hear!
Any tricks about how to keep the door aligned when putting the pin back?
Yes you can hold the door knob and lift up or push down as needed.
Does it matter which hinge the stop goes on? Some of my doors have it on the middle and bottom hinges.
No it does't matter. Thanks for watching.
I wish this actually worked
.