I had that hot start issue with my DCOE equipped '78 MGB. I did install it with the soft mount mentioned by @westcoastdodge. It didn't seem to alleviate the hot start issue at all - not too surprising since it wasn't designed for that purpose. It's designed to reduce fuel aeration caused by vibration (same issue that plagued the early MGA Twin Cam). I also installed the small heat shield that fastens to the bottom of the carb, and covered the bottom of that shield with stick-on DEI Heat Shield. That seemed to help some, but didn't cure the issue completely. Then someone on the MGExp forum (I don't recall who) postulated that the issue wasn't fuel boiling off, but heat causing fuel in the float bowl to expand. That extra fuel has to go somewhere, likely ending up in the intake manifold. With that extra fuel in the manifold, it was essentially flooded. In the old days starting a flooded car was done by keeping the accelerator floored while cranking - allowing extra air into the intake. That's how I start mine now when hot and it seems to work quite well...fires after just a few revolutions...then blipping the throttle a couple of times helps clear it up. Your modifications would certainly help avoid that fuel expansion - if that really is the actual issue.
Gm had distributers in the late 70,s that required a heat sink paste that you put under the electric device that didaway with the points. I wonder if that would help your problem? Enjoy your videos. Warren in Vermont.
My 1968 MGC GT has a cooling fan on carburetor side with a thermostat to switch it on to cool off the SU carbs even with the ignition turned off. this will prevent the vapor lock issue. My 1981 280XZ has the OEM same cooling fan too. I had the same vapor lock issue with my 1968 MGB equipped with the down draft carb. I bought a Webber spacer and it fixed the problem.
Hi there Alex's Garage that is not really the correct way to mount a dcoe style carb,you need a misab mounting plate with 2 o rings and thackray washers.the carb has a little movement when correctly set,this may cure your issue.👍👍
I had that hot start issue with my DCOE equipped '78 MGB. I did install it with the soft mount mentioned by @westcoastdodge. It didn't seem to alleviate the hot start issue at all - not too surprising since it wasn't designed for that purpose. It's designed to reduce fuel aeration caused by vibration (same issue that plagued the early MGA Twin Cam). I also installed the small heat shield that fastens to the bottom of the carb, and covered the bottom of that shield with stick-on DEI Heat Shield. That seemed to help some, but didn't cure the issue completely. Then someone on the MGExp forum (I don't recall who) postulated that the issue wasn't fuel boiling off, but heat causing fuel in the float bowl to expand. That extra fuel has to go somewhere, likely ending up in the intake manifold. With that extra fuel in the manifold, it was essentially flooded. In the old days starting a flooded car was done by keeping the accelerator floored while cranking - allowing extra air into the intake. That's how I start mine now when hot and it seems to work quite well...fires after just a few revolutions...then blipping the throttle a couple of times helps clear it up. Your modifications would certainly help avoid that fuel expansion - if that really is the actual issue.
Gm had distributers in the late 70,s that required a heat sink paste that you put under the electric device that didaway with the points. I wonder if that would help your problem? Enjoy your videos. Warren in Vermont.
My 1968 MGC GT has a cooling fan on carburetor side with a thermostat to switch it on to cool off the SU carbs even with the ignition turned off. this will prevent the vapor lock issue. My 1981 280XZ has the OEM same cooling fan too. I had the same vapor lock issue with my 1968 MGB equipped with the down draft carb. I bought a Webber spacer and it fixed the problem.
Hi there Alex's Garage that is not really the correct way to mount a dcoe style carb,you need a misab mounting plate with 2 o rings and thackray washers.the carb has a little movement when correctly set,this may cure your issue.👍👍
Thanks for the share.
If you can provide some additional detail, I will include it in a follow-up video.
The best way is to simply wash the ethanol out of your fuel with copious amounts of water so none of that crap even makes it into your car.