After checking out a number of your videos now, all excellent, concise and to the point. Great information for anyone wanting to delve into film photography or switch to another camera system.
I’ve am fortunate to have just acquired two 645s, an ETRS and a silver ETRSI (Special Ed.). Not previously knowing about the potential shutter problem you described I put in new batteries and gave it a try. 6:54 The ETRS i seemed OK but the ETRS was intermittently faulty. ( I notice that apart from listening the double click, if you remove the finder you can watch the red battery light blink, more obvious is removing the back and watching the shutter operate. ) Thinking that the ETRS was duff I cleaned all the electrical contacts using some switch cleaner on a cotton bud. The ETRS now seems to be working OK so hopefully both cameras are usable. Thank you for your YT video.
Thank you for a great video packed with info. Just looking to buy a ETRSi and wouldn’t have known about the shutter issue, when testing the electronics. I will give it a good test and watch for any shutter change at the low speeds. Many thanks.
Excellent video, thank you. I did buy an ETRS several years ago, in very nice condition except that I only checked the shutter speeds once through the range. Several films later, I started to notice underexposed frames as the shutter had randomly operated at 1/500s.... However a good ETRS is a very nice camera with smooth light focusing and very bright viewfinder compared to other roll-film reflexes
That's really useful - thanks for the recommendation. Here's a link for anybody else looking for replacement Bronica, Hasselblad, Rollei etc focusing screens; rickoleson-brightscreen.com/
@@WorldwideCameraExchange I watched fleabay for a year just determining serial number ranges, waiting for one of the last/newest. I have a silver one that's far older that I got first, which is my backup now. Cheers.
I'm looking at a ZB ETRSi. The owner (ex-professional photographer) has two identical cameras, with two 75mm lenses. I've been testing shutter speeds, as you recommend in this video. Everything seems to be going well but at 1"/500 it shoots at clearly slower speeds, it could even be at 1"/2, with one of the lenses; with the other one it seems fine. I think it may be due to the shutter blades having some grease, but I don't understand why at other speeds it seems to work fine. On the other hand, the lens that seems to have problems seems to be in better condition as far as other aspects are concerned. Another problem is that when I shoot, the diaphragm does not close and reopen (as in video 7:51) but stays closed and it only opens when I reload. For example, at 1" when firing it closes, then opens for 1" and closes again. I think it is not a problem with the objectives since it also does it with a very new 150mm PE. And the strange thing is that both cameras do it. I am doing something wrong? Or is it the camera that is wrong? I have been testing, with the back off, raising and lowering the mirror lever and there has been a time when it has worked fine but it has closed again. I think it's a problem with the mirror that stays up after shooting. The prediaphragm works correctly. I have the camera in my possession to do a test with a roll of 120 in B&W. I would appreciate any comments or suggestions. Thank you very much for your excellent videos and this one in particular, which has helped me to know what should i look at . (translated with google translator) I hope you understand me. Edited 23:15. It was an error of appreciation on my part. Everything works correctly. The diaphragm opens and closes accordingly and then the shutter closes to avoid blurring the film as the mirror, unlike SLRs, stays up and only goes down when you reload the shutter for the shot. I'm sorry.
A service might solve the problem but I would recommend walking away. I would never recommend buying ex-professional equipment - especially when it’s 30+ years old!
Bronica cameras, along with Hasselblad, Mamiya and other cameras with leaf shutter lenses, do not have instant return mirrors. The mirror only returns to the viewing position after the film is advanced (unless the mirror lock up is active)
I have simple question. Just got an ETRS. So far everything works as expected. In normal picture taking more, ie no mirror lock up or multiple exposure, after taking a shot, should the mirror stay up until I wind the film for the next shot?
I've been looking between the ETRSi and Mamiya 645 Pro - all the camera shopw/repair shop owners I've spoken to have told me to stay away from Bronica because the parts are hard to find and basically no one repairs them anymore, whereas Mamiyas are aplenty. What are your thoughts on this advice?
Neither are easily repaired if parts are needed. Mamiya hasn’t manufactured film cameras or spares for decades (although, perhaps this repairer has a large stock of Mamiya spares?) Camera buyers beware. The truth you MUST know about older digital and film equipment. ua-cam.com/video/Icpe8tJqOIg/v-deo.html
If your an enthusiast, and you use the camera, but infrequently, is it a good idea to put the lenses into the camera occasionally and run the camera through a few different speeds, the exercise them? One person told me it was a good idea, and supposedly keeps the shutters working well if they don’t get used often. What are your thoughts?
I've got a weird problem, my PE 40mm f/4 seems only shoot at 1/500 but my EII 75mm f/2.8 works fine, is that my lens problem or my camera problem? Or did I mess something up?
If the standard lens is working then it’s probably a lens problem. It’s worth having a repairer take a look as it might be something simple to fix (have you tried cleaning the lens contacts?).
A minor point about verifying shutter operation: the closing "click" is very soft to the untrained ear, because the mirror doesn't fold back down after exposure. So all shutter speeds sound _almost_ the same. I verified operation by shining a bright light through the lens and removing the film back, as in this video: ua-cam.com/video/d7zsKvlN5X4/v-deo.html
The closing click is load enough to be audible although as you say it is quieter than the mirror. There’s no need to visually check (I have never known a Bronica shutter click correctly at different speeds but not actually open), but if you want to it’s easier to look into the lens from the front.
@@WorldwideCameraExchange Yeah, I just didn't realize that the "click-clack" would be quite _so_ asymmetric. Only when the seller suggested I look through the lens did I realize that it was working just fine. (Thanks for making this video, btw!)
Yes, very asymmetric for the reason you said. It’s the same for Hasselblad, Mamiya, Rollei and all SLR cameras with leaf shutter lenses. The release is pressed, the mirror and light baffles raise, the shutter opens, the shutter closes. The mirror and light baffles don’t return to their original position until the film is advanced and shutter/camera reset.
My camera finally arrived. Watching this for the third time, now with the camera in my hand. Such a helpful video. Thank you!
Glad it’s useful. Thank you. Enjoy your Bronica!
After checking out a number of your videos now, all excellent, concise and to the point. Great information for anyone wanting to delve into film photography or switch to another camera system.
Glad you like them!
I’ve am fortunate to have just acquired two 645s, an ETRS and a silver ETRSI (Special Ed.). Not previously knowing about the potential shutter problem you described I put in new batteries and gave it a try. 6:54
The ETRS i seemed OK but the ETRS was intermittently faulty. ( I notice that apart from listening the double click, if you remove the finder you can watch the red battery light blink, more obvious is removing the back and watching the shutter operate. ) Thinking that the ETRS was duff I cleaned all the electrical contacts using some switch cleaner on a cotton bud. The ETRS now seems to be working OK so hopefully both cameras are usable.
Thank you for your YT video.
Good news! Bronica is generally very reliable.
Thank you for a great video packed with info. Just looking to buy a ETRSi and wouldn’t have known about the shutter issue, when testing the electronics. I will give it a good test and watch for any shutter change at the low speeds. Many thanks.
Glad it was useful.
Excellent video, thank you. I did buy an ETRS several years ago, in very nice condition except that I only checked the shutter speeds once through the range. Several films later, I started to notice underexposed frames as the shutter had randomly operated at 1/500s.... However a good ETRS is a very nice camera with smooth light focusing and very bright viewfinder compared to other roll-film reflexes
Bronica cameras are generally very reliable. It might be worth changing the battery and having the body serviced.
Great great video!Love ya!!rAre find such transparency!!
Just to mention - Rick Oleson in the U.S. makes screens for these, and they're superior to the originals.
That's really useful - thanks for the recommendation. Here's a link for anybody else looking for replacement Bronica, Hasselblad, Rollei etc focusing screens; rickoleson-brightscreen.com/
I have a 2003 body, serial 236xxx :) Fantastic piece of kit. I love how they made so many special editions. Great stuff!
Must have been one of the last Bronica cameras made!
@@WorldwideCameraExchange I watched fleabay for a year just determining serial number ranges, waiting for one of the last/newest. I have a silver one that's far older that I got first, which is my backup now. Cheers.
I'd forgotten about the silver Bronica cameras! Getting very rare these days.
@@WorldwideCameraExchange Is there any site with Bronica's serial numbers?
I'm not aware of any definitive database. I'd love to hear from anyone who knows of one?
Really handy guide, many thanks!
Thanks for commenting - always appreciated
Thank you for making this excellent buyers guide.
Glad it was helpful!
@@WorldwideCameraExchange I used your tips in this video, and your other, when I purchased an SQAI. Can't state enough how helpful it was. Cheers!
Very helpful, thanks!
You're welcome!
I have one and am adding more as it is a great camera system.
Excellent cameras!
Excellent video
Thank you - appreciated
Could you do a video about acquiring and loading the battery please? Where can the firm be acquired also?
Thanks for the great quality videos
Most Bronica cameras take 4SR44 (also called PX28) batteries. They are widely available. Any decent camera store should have them.
Gracias. Un vídeo de gran ayuda.
Glad it was useful - thanks
I'm looking at a ZB ETRSi. The owner (ex-professional photographer) has two identical cameras, with two 75mm lenses. I've been testing shutter speeds, as you recommend in this video. Everything seems to be going well but at 1"/500 it shoots at clearly slower speeds, it could even be at 1"/2, with one of the lenses; with the other one it seems fine. I think it may be due to the shutter blades having some grease, but I don't understand why at other speeds it seems to work fine. On the other hand, the lens that seems to have problems seems to be in better condition as far as other aspects are concerned.
Another problem is that when I shoot, the diaphragm does not close and reopen (as in video 7:51) but stays closed and it only opens when I reload. For example, at 1" when firing it closes, then opens for 1" and closes again.
I think it is not a problem with the objectives since it also does it with a very new 150mm PE. And the strange thing is that both cameras do it. I am doing something wrong? Or is it the camera that is wrong?
I have been testing, with the back off, raising and lowering the mirror lever and there has been a time when it has worked fine but it has closed again. I think it's a problem with the mirror that stays up after shooting.
The prediaphragm works correctly.
I have the camera in my possession to do a test with a roll of 120 in B&W.
I would appreciate any comments or suggestions.
Thank you very much for your excellent videos and this one in particular, which has helped me to know what should i look at .
(translated with google translator) I hope you understand me.
Edited 23:15. It was an error of appreciation on my part. Everything works correctly. The diaphragm opens and closes accordingly and then the shutter closes to avoid blurring the film as the mirror, unlike SLRs, stays up and only goes down when you reload the shutter for the shot.
I'm sorry.
A service might solve the problem but I would recommend walking away. I would never recommend buying ex-professional equipment - especially when it’s 30+ years old!
@@WorldwideCameraExchange Muchas gracias por su rápida respuesta.
@@WorldwideCameraExchangeSee edited comment 23:15
Bronica cameras, along with Hasselblad, Mamiya and other cameras with leaf shutter lenses, do not have instant return mirrors. The mirror only returns to the viewing position after the film is advanced (unless the mirror lock up is active)
I have simple question. Just got an ETRS. So far everything works as expected. In normal picture taking more, ie no mirror lock up or multiple exposure, after taking a shot, should the mirror stay up until I wind the film for the next shot?
Yes, perfectly normal. Cameras with leaf shutters (Bronica, Hasselblad, Mamiya etc) don’t have instant return mirrors.
I've been looking between the ETRSi and Mamiya 645 Pro - all the camera shopw/repair shop owners I've spoken to have told me to stay away from Bronica because the parts are hard to find and basically no one repairs them anymore, whereas Mamiyas are aplenty. What are your thoughts on this advice?
Neither are easily repaired if parts are needed. Mamiya hasn’t manufactured film cameras or spares for decades (although, perhaps this repairer has a large stock of Mamiya spares?)
Camera buyers beware. The truth you MUST know about older digital and film equipment.
ua-cam.com/video/Icpe8tJqOIg/v-deo.html
Thx boss
Welcome
If your an enthusiast, and you use the camera, but infrequently, is it a good idea to put the lenses into the camera occasionally and run the camera through a few different speeds, the exercise them? One person told me it was a good idea, and supposedly keeps the shutters working well if they don’t get used often. What are your thoughts?
Yes, definitely. Anything mechanical needs to be regularly ‘worked’.
@@WorldwideCameraExchange thanks…
I've got a weird problem, my PE 40mm f/4 seems only shoot at 1/500 but my EII 75mm f/2.8 works fine, is that my lens problem or my camera problem? Or did I mess something up?
If the standard lens is working then it’s probably a lens problem. It’s worth having a repairer take a look as it might be something simple to fix (have you tried cleaning the lens contacts?).
Are the bodies of these cameras interchangeable with the original lens, backs and viewers?
Yes, nearly all can be used on ETR, ETRS or ETRSi bodies
The camera is clean but the leather is peeling, should I buy it?
Quite a common problem with the Bronica cameras. If everything else is good it shouldn’t be an issue.
@@WorldwideCameraExchange Thank you!
Happy to help
A minor point about verifying shutter operation: the closing "click" is very soft to the untrained ear, because the mirror doesn't fold back down after exposure. So all shutter speeds sound _almost_ the same. I verified operation by shining a bright light through the lens and removing the film back, as in this video: ua-cam.com/video/d7zsKvlN5X4/v-deo.html
The closing click is load enough to be audible although as you say it is quieter than the mirror. There’s no need to visually check (I have never known a Bronica shutter click correctly at different speeds but not actually open), but if you want to it’s easier to look into the lens from the front.
@@WorldwideCameraExchange Yeah, I just didn't realize that the "click-clack" would be quite _so_ asymmetric. Only when the seller suggested I look through the lens did I realize that it was working just fine. (Thanks for making this video, btw!)
Yes, very asymmetric for the reason you said. It’s the same for Hasselblad, Mamiya, Rollei and all SLR cameras with leaf shutter lenses. The release is pressed, the mirror and light baffles raise, the shutter opens, the shutter closes. The mirror and light baffles don’t return to their original position until the film is advanced and shutter/camera reset.