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Cool trick to MAKE YOUR BASS NECK 10x FASTER
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- Опубліковано 29 бер 2018
- Glossy, lacquered necks are something that I've always disliked on my basses.
They stick to your hand when you're moving up and down the neck, and essentially they can end up slowing you down...
In this lesson I'm going to show you a super easy way to drastically speed up the feel of the neck on your bass... and everything you need is available from your local hardware store.
... the best bit?
It'll only take you a few minutes to do!
You ready?
As always, see you in the shed…
Scott :)
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Hey guys, also - if you wanna take it down to the bare wood (like I do) you have to start off with a heavier grit paper to start with, then transition to the 800. If you DON'T wanna take it down to the bare wood, you can still just take the glossy finish off with the 800 grit/wire wool - but you won't have to oil it. Oh... and obviously... thanks for checking out the video! Groove. Is. ON! ;)
Or just wear gloves so you never get the neck grimey...lol
YHey Scott...you have to put this sand paper in the water before doin it...you'll have better results!!!! wooow...dont do it with dry...oh my g...!!...but anyway,you're absolutely right to take off this f... gloss finish!
That's why they call it "wet" sanding...lol
Yes thats it!
Australian cricketers got banned for less. Bass cheats 😂
I did it the way you said, but my neck only got 8 times faster :(
Well, just do the procedure twice and I expect that the result will be 16 times faster.
or 64 times faster! Ouch, that might be dangerous!
You must have done it wrong. When done correctly, you will achieve the stated 10 times increase in speed.
I'm calling the police.
I PUT CRISCO OR LARD ON MY NECKS. SUPER-fast!
I spent two years learning to play fast and the next five trying to slow down.
kingstumble sounds like my sex life
I always told my bass players the same thing. Keep it simple and if you don't play the root note on all transitions and all accented beats please just sit down. This is how I ended up playing bass because everyone wanted to play soloing bass and show off.
Its a term referring to friction, not playing fast.
@@westsideken 🤣🤣🤣 I hear you
Having a fast neck has nothing to do with playing faster.
0:12 scott is now just cloning himself to staff SBL
It's true! I followed this video and can now play songs which were originally at 180 bpm at 1800 bpm! The only problem is that the frictional heat ignites my bass and the strings melt after a few seconds.
It doesn't matter that my neck is now 10x faster. I still suck.
But now you suck quickly. Just like a Kardashian.
Practice practice practice. Anyone can learn but you have to want it. Keep playing. The speed and fluidity will come in time.
Practice more...slowly.
Primus sucks.
My mum walked into my room while I was doing this! @2:03
Burt Reynolds lol
Burt Reynolds bahahahahahahaha
LMAO.
LLLOOOOLLL!!!
Your mum is a pervert,IMHO
Your method works for a while but it wears of really quickly. What you need is tung oil and put 3-4 very thin applications (at least 12-24 hrs between applications and light sanding between). I am a violin maker and this is what we use. DO NOT USE SHELLAC!
90% of "tung oil" products are mixed crap... use a pure BLO ("boiled linseed"), several layers rubbed in with brown paper until it gets noticeably warm
Flush BLO application papers into a toilet, linseed oil 'rags' of any kind are a spontaneous combustition fire hazard
@@kuruyad This is valuable info. Thank you. I'm going to try it.
Adieu Thanks for the information. Would teak oil be a suitable alternative to the pure boiled linseed you recommend?
@@kuruyad Depends on what brand you use. Formby's works fantastic.
We, as bass players are looking for as little finish of any kind as possible and tung oil is fantastic but I would recommend using as little as possible as it can get a bit tacky after playing in and sweating on it. I like the linseed oil for the fretboard but not sure if it’s suitable for sealing the wood after sanding and the need to do so is debatable. And you are exactly right about the shellac! It’s like the stickiest clumpiest tone killing coating I’ve ever experienced. I think letting the neck absorb thin coat of tung oil is the best way for me and reapply as necessary and letting it soak in and dry completely if adding another coat, as you stated, is crucial to getting a smooth and even coating. Great information! 👍💯
I've done something similar but not nearly as invasive, recommended to me by luthier Harry Fleishman: take the same wet/dry sandpaper, cut a 1"x2" piece, and soak it in warm "dishsoapy" water for 5 minutes. Take it out, lay your bass across your lap strings down, and use 2 fingers with the sandpaper to make "circles" all up and down the back of the neck. Don't use much pressure, let the sandpaper do the work. Do this for 5 minutes or until the paper seems to have dried up. Wipe down the back of the neck with a cloth (damp first, then dry), and you have converted your glossy finish to a SATIN finish. The great thing about this method is that the lacquer is still there 1) to protect the wood, and 2) if you want to buff it back to a gloss.
Scott, however, used to build basses for a living, so I take nothing away at all from his recommended method. :-)
Aaaaand I just saw Scott's pinned reply, which is essentially just what I said without the soap & water.
I sanded a little too much, and my bass ended up being 15x faster. Now I can't play ballads.
Hi Scott. Love your stuff and your enthusiasm. I did the neck on my G&L about 20 years ago and applied a German brand Tung oil. Worked a treat and lasts for years. All the best
That "worn" P bass is gorgeous! I'm sure it has that amazing well loved, and played on forever feel. Thanks for your great videos!
just did this to my Moollon. Worked like a charm. Taped off the PUPs with masking tape as well though to keep the bits from the steel wool out of em. Super easy and the neck is super fast and has more of a vintage/relic feel to it. Cost about $30 altogether for supplies. Great tip!
Hi Scott, if you use the Wet and Dry with a little warm water and a bar of soap it will make the wood even smoother and this stops the paper clogging. Just dip paper in water then rub soap gently then sand the neck. Great video as always. John
I'm the opposite. Bit of gig sweat and I slide beautifully on gloss, grip and trip on sanded/ non gloss necks
Same here, a nice gloss is PERFECT compared to bare wood. Plus, there's NO WAY I'd sand any of my nice basses.
I love how no nonsense this is. No taping. No string removal. No pre-cleaning. Just sand it and carry on!!
Love the videos and Podcast.
Real important - if you are using steel wool you MUST tape off your pickups!!! Metal filament from steel wool can destroy pickups. Also mineral oil is a great oil for this project. Fodera recommends mineral oil.
Car stuff how can steel wool destroy the pickups? I used it once and the pickups got all covered in filaments, but i didn’t notice any differences in the sound
Could be wrong here, but I think Fodera recommends mineral oil for fretboard maintenance, not for sealing wood against moisture. If you sand a neck to bare wood and need to protect it, I would recommend Tru-oil. Have done three necks with it and they all play great. And yeah, agree on keeping steel wool away from magnets. There are synthetic steel wool substitutes you can use instead.
Car stuff yeah. Good tip. On bolt-ons, I usually pull the neck, but on glue in, or neck thru, I'll often even bag/mask and tape the body off, and just clean up the strays before unwrapping the instrument. Those little suckers get into everything once they get attracted to the magnets. Even worse when the work their way into the control cavity where they can find their way into pot openings.
I use cedar oil to keep parasites off my dog, and it also seals wood, having a catalyzing reaction that hardens its surface, and makes it waterproof. I put it on my sanded down guitar neck, and it feels like glass. I don't play bass yet, but just got an Ibanez TMB100 - it's neck is already satin slick (but HUGE - should have gone short scale?).
Still doing this in 2019! Just smoothed out the neck of an early 1980's Fresher Jazz bass. Super smooth!
Thanks Scott....I've been doing this for years. Love the way the neck feels. Tung oil is nice too.
You can also knock the glossy finish off by (gently) rubbing the neck with a simple scotch brite pad
Congrats on your new glasses! I have to say, the other ones were making me itch :D nice tip btw!
great idea!
I live in Houston Texas, one of the most humid cities in the USA. I did this down to bare wood on one of my basses years ago, and I ended up adjusting the neck every three weeks. Yes, I did oil it. A friend of mine who lives in Arizona now has it and said the problem is no more. He said he adjusted it once when he got it home, and it's been perfect since. That was 20 years ago. So be aware of your climate before doing this to your bass.
I live in Southern Illinois... also very humid unfortunately. It's a constant struggle to keep my basses necks where they should be. Drives me crazy! Haha
This can happen even if you don’t mess with the factory lacquer finish. Every piece of wood is different, some are more stable than others. Sometimes it is obvious if you examine the grain, density and look for grain runout. I think it is mostly luck of the draw. I once was in Guitar Center, I was looking at an American Standard Strat. I could not believe the poor choice of wood, it had such extreme runout, that neck is going to be nothing but trouble. I can’t believe it made it al l the way through prioduction and nobody thought “ whoa, this is not a good piece of wood for a neck”.
Love you bro!!!
Awesome tip Scott.
I've been doing this to lacquered necks for years. Often I'll just use 000, and 0000 steel wool and work it in a bit of a cross hatch pattern to break that tacky gloss. It feels a lot faster.
As you said, if you do take it down to the wood, sealing is important. Especially in climates where you get big swings in humidity levels throughout the year which can make necks do funky things with change of seasons.
Your teak oil is great. I've used boiled linseed, and Casey's Gunstock oil as well in conjunction with bee's wax.
Very good video.
Once you have it sanded and oil treated is there any further maintenance required on the neck in the future? (Apart from a standard wipe down with a damp cloth every so often)
Just tried this on my Peavey Grind. I'm amazed! On a mahogany neck, there's no change in the colour. If anything, it looks better. So smooth, too :) Excellent tip!
Thanks! I’m gonna do this.
Extremely helpfull
So funny, you taught me hair through your videos a few days ago then I see thats one of your random go tos for funk... Now me too. Haha😁Thanks mate. Subscribed.
a thoroughly new and somewhat challenging angle on 'fret wankery' young man, keep it up!
Another tip is to mask the pickups when using wire wool. That prevents the iron shavings from the wool sticking to the magnets. Danish lilla is good for finishing
I got a iRig and ended up playing for hours and woke up swore in the wrist from a old skateboard injury love 💖 the channel thanks copper
Just came across this video. Will try it in my Tony Franklin fretless. Will it improve my intonation too? LOL
Don't need to remove the finish. Don't need to use steelwool/wirewool. Scotchbrite pads in various colors/grades will retain the seal of the finish and give you the satin feel you want with no oil applications required. The old school 'sanding laquer' finishes respond very well to the Scotchbrite treatment, (actually better than the new urethanes), so don't get carried away with removing all the sealer on the neck. It's NOT necessary. Try it first, as you have nothing to lose. Blue, green or yellow pads are all in the range that work for this satin treatment. Avoid the black and gray as they are too harsh.
Years ago I built a Carvin BK-5. 5-string fretless with black chrome hardware. I finished the body (swamp ash) and back of the neck (maple, ebony fretboard) with several coats of Minwax Tung Oil and used very fine steel wool between coats. The neck was smooth as velvet.
Magnificent video xD
May have to try this on the harley benton I just got!
Awesome, just did this to my 62 reissue pbass. Made a hell of a difference ! I loved this so much, I also did a spoof vid on it :P
Going to check the vid now!
Thank you for the tips, Bald McAvoy 👍👍
Just did this for one of my guitars, it's great! I was always afraid to try it but it's no fail (generally). Also, linseed oil?
you are correct professor x.
I applied this technique to a Yamaha RBX375 bass that had a painted neck. I'll never understand why they did that to such fine wood. After numerous attempts to touch up all the minor nicks and scratches to the neck finish, I decided to strip all the paint away from the neck. I removed the strings, the neck from the body, and the tuners. Four hours with 220 and 320 grit sandpaper later, and the finish was marvellous! A light coat of mineral oil was all it needed . It plays so much better now.
I bought a used $100 Ibanez Destroyer, and sanded off the hideous blue and yellow 1980s zebra pattern... and my PLAN was to put Contact Paper on, from the hardware store (so i could fake the guitar was a slab of MARBLE or
whatever (!)...but it looked so great RAW that I kept it that way (and never had any problems). It looks like a kitchen butcher block!
How have I never thought of this ????? Awesome tip man . I'm gonna do this asap to my Sire v7. Which BTW, i think has more gloss on the neck than any bass ive seen.
I've always used linseed oil for my acoustic (upright) bass necks. Works very well.
I just use a little talcum powder - and it works for sweaty fingers too. Love your videos.
Tru-Oil Gunstock Finish. Oddly was intending to do this later on today :-)
Hey Scott... Easier and simpler method... Scotchbrite pads. One step and done. It takes out the "stiction" of gloss necks and turns a gloss neck into satin. But if you decide you ever want to make it glossy again, you can bring back the gloss with a buffer and even re-buffed it won't feel as sticky. My fear with steel wool is that the magnets will attract the steel particles coming off the pad. Another way to make the neck faster without any modification is Finger Ease. I don't know why this stuff isn't de rigueur for bass players for the strings, but it works for the back of the neck too. Lastly... Gloves. Why not? Easier on the fingers sliding up and down on roundwounds and zero stiction on the neck's back with any finish.
I prefer tung oil to teak oil. You can also use Scotch-Brite abrasive pads instead of sandpaper and steel wool. On coarse grain wood I've had steel wool fibers embed and then rust and it looks like hell. If you do use steel wool be careful not to let the little steel wool fibers land on your magnetic pickups.
Definitely seek out 3M fine sanding pads over steel wool. No steel fibers. Easy to find at USA home improvement stores.
I wonder if TSP would also work well. It's a de-glosser used to clean woodwork before re-painting. Just be careful it doesn't get anywhere you want to keep glossy!
Oh yeah, I do it on all my guitars and basses too, but I gently use a Scotch Brite to remove the glossy coating on both natural and painted finishes. Love that smoothy finish.
I used to own a Fender P that had this type of neck and it was very bare, smooth, easy to play. I won't buy a six-string or a bass with a heavy coat because it sticks to my hand. Good vid.
I've done this for years. I stripped it from my Jazz. I've done it on one of my Rics. I love it.
My J bass has a satin neck and I was always happy with it. However my hands used to sweat a lot. Long nights playing in bars with pool tables gave me the idea to once in a while towel off my hands and the neck and then put a little talcum powder on them (like pool players sometimes do with their cue sticks). I’m told this doesn’t work for some people but it worked for me.
Hello Joel.. I will try this sanding on a cheap bass first to see if it works haha
There’s a way to keep your gloss poly necks just as fast and smooth as bare wood, while keeping them protected from moisture, dirt and insects, without steel wool. Especially on lower-priced basses, there are often almost invisible bumps and dips in the finish. Hand sanding just follows those contours. Instead, get a hard sanding block. Just a few swipes with 220 grit will temporarily turn the finish white, revealing the imperfections. A few more will level them out. Be gentle around sharp corners, to avoid sanding through to bare wood. Gently hand-polish the remaining poly back to clear with a progression of grits- 320, 400, 600, 800, 1000, 1200. Don’t overdo- just a few strokes at each grit is all it takes. Repeat with 1200 grit whenever it feels sticky again.
Cool tricks, but I actually prefer the glossy necks. One of my basses has a neck that’s not even wood at all and it’s super slick and glossy.
Bare Wood, 3 lagers of tru oil , ( user the fine steel Wool in between ) after the last layer and steel wool birchwood wax.
Like Musical Man ....
Keep up the good work Scott !!
Enjoy your channel !!
Musical Man?
bare wood, steel wool but only 3 lagers? Ouch!!
yeahh I use this trick for years, when I repair basses and guitars I use sand paper #1000 and I use red polishment and White Polishment...is INSANE
GREETINGS FROM MEXICO
I am a woodworker by trade, be careful with the sand paper not to put a flat area on the neck, usually it will occur right in the middle of the neck, you should "cup" the paper so that you sand evenly down the neck, making sure not to stay in one area too long....just wanted to say....the neck is critical for play so be sure not to put that flat area in there !!!!!
good point... although that's part of the charm of 800 grit! that's some super-fine 'paper!
Use a foam sanding block so it conforms to the contour of the neck.
Hi Scott. I just purchased a Sterling shorty. I love Satin necks, but this one is a little-dry. (not the fretboard). Is there anything that I can put-on the Neck: Tru-oil, or similar, to make it retain the Satin-feel, but become more slick with less drag? I hit Subscribe as I enjoy your content. oNe LovE from NYC
wonderful! got a new bass from fender and it has a glossy neck, went to play my favorite riff and I couldn't seem to get to the notes fast enough, practiced it like hell, then found this video and got rid of the finish on my neck, now im too fast!
My current and previous bass all had satin non glossy finishes. For me I do not prefer a glossy lacquer finish. I found the glossy finish becoming tacky when my hand got the slightest bit moist and it was worse at outdoor gigs with humidity. My bass necks currently have multiple tung oil applications rubbed in followed by a high quality wood paste wax. That combination gives a very satin smooth protective finish that for me plays great in all humidity conditions. Glossy/Satin....to each their own. Whatever works best for you! ;)
I usually use Tru-oil on my necks. It's a drying oil gunstock finish that gives great results speeding up a neck.
I showed my bass this and now it runs 10x faster than me!!
Thank you.
Tru oil or tung oil work really well
Although the process appears fraught with peril, it does seem like a worthwhile endeavour! :)
I used to do this but with time I don't notice much difference and besides the safety risks.
Weird question but what racks/stands do you recommend to store a lot of basses for minimal amount of money, not including wall mounts.
Hey Scott. This is super cool and I am terrified to do it to my MIM Mike Dirnt Fender P, but I think it might actually be quite useful.Random unrelated question - have you ever tried to restring a bass and one of the strings just keeps slipping out of/off the tuning post? My E, A, and D are all good but the G just pulls straight out of the post centre hole and slips right off as I tighten it up. Have you ever come across that?
Try not to bend the end of G string about edge of tuner hole. Just put it in the hole, hold the string with your thumb a little bit and carefully turn the peg
You can also use boiled linseed oil for the neck. It's a non-glossy natural finish that soaks into the wood and preserves the natural grain.
Can you do this on painted necks like a les paul, or does this only work on finished necks without paint ?
Scott, lubricate the steel wool with Johnson’s paste wax. It’ll be smoother, feel softer and the wax will seal the wood.
I'm not sure I would do this to a vintage instrument or a high priced one, unless I had no plans of ever parting with it. Wouldn't this hurt the overall value?
Scott, Rather than Teak Oil, what I like for sealing a “raw” neck is bowling alley wax. It works great!
Fast Fret will clean the neck and leave a nice slick feel without having to remove the finish. Works on satin finishes too, which is basically what you've created here... If you do remove the finish, DO NOT apply shellac... Trust me on this one...
You are right about shellac. It will get sticky on you!!
What can you use to clean your fretboard? Mine has loads of gunk around the frets, I wanna clean it when I restring my bass
Scott this is a totally unrelated comment my friend. I am a big fan of the infinity scarfs you wear and wanted to know where you get them. My wife makes mine but I am always looking for new ones. By way great video too.
Scotch wipes are very good too,they have less runaway fibers than wire wool.💛
Really never found it a problem on my jazz bass, and don’t fancy doing it. Just tried polishing the neck with something called Wood Silk furniture polish. Gives a lot less friction. Good enough.
I have the opposite problem. The finish on my bass was matte black. It was fast when I bought it new. After years of use, it became glossy... mostly because of the worm matte finish. Any tips to restore the non-shiny finish without removing the black paint?
The green Scotch pads are what pool players use to get their pools sticks to be non stick, I like them because it becomes no stick without removing the finish.
Scott, Watching from Australia. Any objections if I can only get yellow sand paper?
Ballistol is my favorite Oil. To remove the laquer you can take a dish sponge, too ...
tried it on my guitar, an Epiphone Casino. Amazing
A couple coats of Tru-oil feels fantastic and protects the neck!
Hi, Scott, what gloves are you using for playing?
I'd love to find a way to do something similar to my Modulus neck.. any thoughts? Cheers.
That's exactly what I always do to my necks. Feels much better.
That’s exactly what I did with my Sire V7 a few months ago
Mr. Clean Magic Eraser works great for me !
My bass has a darker stripe on the back which I’m assuming is for the truss rod. Will doing this to my neck affect that in any way?
Is it really neccesairy to put on the teak oil. Can it also be done without it?
Cool. I just use a scotch bright pad. Green works well.... Yes the same thing that is on the back of dish washing sponges.
what do you think of gun oiled neck finish? it is the fastest on earth!! and it is a great finish!
Sanded the neck on my custom fretless Jazz thirty-five years ago, keep it sanded a couple times a year, depending on how many hours I play. Can't imagine playing the neck any other way.
The metaphor used to be “polishing my sword”, now it’s “making my neck faster” .
Scott - 0000 steel wool also works wonders rubbed on itchy bald scalps, and with a bit of hot glue and some creativity, it makes a fine looking (low cost) toupee that scores big points with groupies.
Is there a difference between 0000 steel wool and wire wool? All I can find at the store is 0000 steel wool.
Danish Oil? I built one of those cheap kits last year (Strat bodied guitar) and finished the body and neck with Danish oil, dark for the body and clear for the neck