Cheap plane? No problem. Maximize it's performance in minutes
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- Опубліковано 30 чер 2024
- Plane Blades (on sale for a limited time): lddy.no/1esbd
Cubitron Stickit Discs: lddy.no/1esbh
MagJig 150: lddy.no/1esbe
Planes: lddy.no/1esbi
Making & Mastering Wood Planes By David Finck: lostartpress.com/products/mak...
Making & Mastering Wood Planes (Video) By David Finck (scroll down the page to find it towards the bottom): www.davidfinck.com/making-and...
Respirator: lddy.no/1esqs
Masks: lddy.no/1esqu
Wood By Wright's Video: • Plane Iron Test Result...
0:00 Intro
1:11 Blade information
5:56 Make your own hand plane
7:40 Summary
8:28 Which sanding discs to use
9:12 Lapping the plane sole
10:45 Plane iron flattening hack
I know you were presenting to the camera, so a mask would have been bad for audio, but just so other people know, steel/iron dust is really bad for your lungs. Wear a respirator if you have it and a mask if you don't.
Absolutely. Thank you for pointing that out for anyone watching.
Wow! Many thanks for pointing this out. I'm kind of a newbie and I have a few new plane irons and chisels that I need to tune up this winter before I get out the garage and put them to work in the spring. I'm glad you mentioned this as I might not have thought of it on my own. Cheers!
Good advise. I filter the air I breathe through a cigarette. If dust was so deadly all of our ancestors would have died long ago. Ya sissy.
I'll utter something that has never been uttered before (except maybe by Rob Cosman) I can't wait to flatten my plane! :)
I tuned up a cheap Harbor Freight plane and got it to work decently. I had no one but UA-cam teach me what I needed to know. Anyways I successfully used it for a year before I upgraded to a name brand plane. By then, my skills at sharpening and planing were honed and the transition was easy as pie.
There's not much to a hand plane really. What's important is sharpening it. If you don't get it wicked sharp it is not going to cut. Every plane except for a rabbeting plane needs a camber on the iron too. It can be really slight but it still has to be something. Basically people don't know how to sharpen and that's where their troubles are going to stem from. Most of the mooks around here are not offering good advise when it comes to sharpening too.
@@1pcfred I would argue that mating the chipbreaker is just as important as the sharpness, get your blade assembly together and you'd be golden.
So much good stuff here. Glad I found your site. I bought two of your replacement blades so far, now need to fill out the rest of the cabinet. Stan S
I did pick up a copy of that David Finck book. Shall we say it is very basic, as in beginner level. This made 80% of so of the book redundant to anyone who has a woodshop, and knows what to do with the tools. I did pick up some ideas though....
Side note, no matter what plane you buy, always take it apart and examine everything on it. I check the plane iron for square, and make sure the sides are straight. Check the sole, check the handles, check all the screws and bolts to make sure they are tight, and check the sharpness of the blade. They all seem to need some work.
The mag jig magnet trick - Genius. Great video.
Thank you!
@@TaylorToolworks, The bases for both of my dial indicators work the same way. (Why would I throw the old one away when its replaced when I can repurpose it instead?)
Great Video!
I purchased a couple of your harder 2" replacement blades, one with a chip breaker, awhile back and had a problem with the back of the blade having a "Hump" [for lack of a better term] and couldn't get it flat for the life of me. Since it was my first purchase from you I wasn't sure what to expect for a response, if any. Boy was I pleasantly surprised. I not only heard directly from you, you sent me a replacement blade free of charge & I didn't even have to send the problem one back - period. It flattened and sharpened up just fine, as did the other one so I bought another, all of which are working just fine. In fact, if I hadn't put one of your blades in my , made in Mexico, Stanley No. 5, I might have tried getting rid of it (& I'm a tool pack rat) because of the way Stanley has changed the configuration of where the sole and the bed of the frog meet, it no longer fully supports the back of the iron all the way to its cutting edge. The new, thicker style of irons do not need that final 1/4" of support to work well, w/o so-called chatter. Anyway, I was impressed enough with your service and products I went ahead and purchased one of your No. 7's through Amazon. It was good, but had a cosmetic problem so I had it replaced and it's great. Now, I'm thinking of your rendition of the Stanley No. 93 1" shoulder plane to augment the 3/4" Bench Dog No. 92 I already have - despite Rob Cosman's doubts regarding the adjustment semi-circular grove destroying the brass(?) adjustment wheel. [You may read my user comments/reviews of almost all tool products I post either under my Nom d'Tool-Comment as JBarleycorn, or my Nom d'Blog, Myron J. Poltroonian.]
Well, I do a LOT of turning, and have used nothing but V10 and M42 high speed tools for years now. Veritas has their V11, and it surprises me that no one is making plane blades out of the M42 steel. It really holds an edge on my turning tools. Any idea why not? I know they have 1/8 inch stock. Bought some blanks from D Way tools up in Washington, and am going to make my own marking knives. Have one 1/4 inch thick piece I made a 1 inch wide chisel out of. Works great.
FYI, Hock blades for Krenov style planes: 2" x 3 1/2" = $55, 2" x 4 1/2" = $59. David Finck also has a video version of the book and it is amazing.
Thanks! I'll add a link in the description for those who may prefer the video.
@@TaylorToolworks - I followed the link to have a look. The price for the 4-hour video is only 10 bucks. What a bargain!
$59? Fuck that!
@@1pcfred You get what you pay for.
@@marvistawoodworks7624 I wouldn't place much stock in that claim. You get what you get and you pay what you pay. Price does not always reflect quality. The market dictates value.
You just sold me on Cubitron abrasives.
You can't go wrong with them - there are so many uses
When you said, "I changed the paper to 220 because this (180) wasn't cutting fast enough...." did you mean you changed it to 120? Or did you mean you were trying to get a more polished surface? Thanks for sharing this idea. It's a real game changer for lapping plane soles!
I was confused as well, obvs if the 220 cubitron somehow cuts faster than the 180 then it would never really make any sense to use anything but the 220!
There is absolutely nothing wrong with Stanley plane irons. They work fine for me. But I know how to bed an iron on a frog and that may be the critical factor. If your iron is flapping around in the breeze it will chatter then.
There's a world of difference on how the frog mates with the iron between my Made in England Stanley No. 6 Fore Plane that I bought brand new in the mid-'90's and my Made in Mexico No. 5 I bought a couple of years, or so, ago. I replaced the No. 5's iron with a Taylor and its great. I put the No. 5 Stanley iron in my 1946 Sargent No.409 and it works just fine as well.
does it really matter to put the blade in and all that stuff? I find it way easier to put accurate pressure when i only got the sole and no handle , frog, blade....
I have the one from harbor freight and it is complete garbage. The iron anyway. I got it razor sharp and the first pass it was dull and chipped up like i never touched it. And that was pine lol now I know what im ordering from Tay next
The 220 cubitron cuts faster than the 180..?!
This came up on my feed. not noticing the creator, 3 mins I think, I wonder if Taylor toolworks sells a decent plane...
Geeze, I wonder how those thin irons on planes managed to do so much high end woodworking 100 plus years ago without ruining everything... It seems ridiculous to me that everything that was perfectly find 100 years ago is now considered inadequate. Are new irons good? Sure, but the irons from 100 years ago managed to make everything with no problems.
That Stanley is definitely not 100yrs old. And the steel they used on the irons is of a lower quality the more recently manufactured the planes are. Older irons were thicker but modern steel holds an edge longer. No one’s saying they never used to be any good but it’s a given that they needed sharpening more regularly than we need to now
@@spycedezynuk No, you're right its not a 100yr old Stanley. It's a post war, Stanley with the kidney bean lever cap and raised toe and heel. But I didn't say it was a 100 yr old plane. My point is, the Stanley's haven't changed all that much until they started producing garbage within recent decades. Plane irons weren't that different on an early Stanley type 1, all the way to the type 16/17 era. And those planes built everything just fine. There's no reason to buy Veritas, Lie Nielsen, WoodRiver etc when a good old Stanley can do the same job for under 100 bucks, whether its 120 years old, or 60.
@@timothymallon Ok I really don’t get your rant though ? no one in this video is saying you do have the latest or that old ones are no good. The reason you might want a new iron is because the old one is just not worth the effort or too damaged to restore. I have two number 4s roughly the same age one iron near perfect and the other virtually disintegrated when I was restoring them.
@@spycedezynuk oh bullcrap. Vintage Stanley planes are second to none. That's why they dominated the world market like they did. You can't beat it. Regular sharpening isn't a problem if you sharpen efficiently. In fact you're better off to sharpen more often. It's counterintuitive but the more you sharpen the less time you'll spend overall sharpening. As soon as you lose that keen fresh edge freshen it up. Then it literally only takes a few strokes as opposed to being there who knows how long bringing an edge back. And you're always working sharp then too.
@@1pcfred what do you mean bull crap ? I never said anything related to your comment about sharpening ? Nor did I say anything was wrong with a Stanley I’ve got two myself but if you do some research the older ones are slightly better due to manufacturing changes over the course of time. And no actually your not right about sharpening often, Katz Moses has done a very good video about that go and watch it.