For those thinking of getting into armour making... this is a great example of cold steel work. DO NOT use heat or a forge if you are just getting started in armouring .... learn how metal moves and works cold first... once you get the cold method down then you can start using heat in your work. Once you start using heat you must also learn how to properly heat treat your metal work so that it retains it's strength if you are using it for SCA or metal blade combat.
Chad O'Neill I am currently looking for sites or anything helpful tutorial wise to get me started in armour making, any way you could point me in the correct corner of the internet?
Nothing really tutorial wise.. best I can point you at is the armor archive. There are plenty of patterns that can get you started there. First thing I would do is make a dishing stump and just start banging away on something easy like a sugarloaf helm.
Chad O'Neill Out of curiosity why do you suggest not working hot initially? Mild steel can't be heat treated to nearly the hardness of carbon steel and that's what a lot of period armor is made of (or at least, the period equivalent). So there's not much downside to forging the armor instead of cold forming.
Heated metal moves much faster and much easier into the desired shape. This can lead to over working the metal. When you work with cold metal and start shaping it you learn exactly how the metal moves without overworking it. When you are confident in your skills and then start to apply heat you can shape metal even faster without fear of overworking. Myself after starting cold style I can now work heated metal much more efficiently and with ease compared to friends who have been at this much longer than myself.
Chad O'Neill Okay, I see where you're coming from. But I am a little confused about the notion of overworking hot metal when it requires less work to form. When working cold, you run the risk of making the armor brittle from work hardening due to having to hammer twice as much, and mistakes requiring a lot of effort to sort out again - thus work hardening even further. In contrast, working hot requires less effort, fewer blows, and mistakes are easier and faster to correct. So I'm not sure how you run the risk of over working it, unless you mean reheating the same section over and over again introducing problems.
Nice work... I would have rolled the lower rear helm edges as well as the visor. A flute along the center band would have accented the flute in the visor very well and made for a very very nicely finished helm. All in all a very nice piece.. keep up the good work.
Thanks. The little I know about making armor was through trial and error. Experiment! With a little patience and time you'll be able to make things far better!
I found a medieval helmet when metal detecting most of the metal had migrated but a lot of the imprint was still there to see .the neck guard was made of 2 skins and the brass ring and plum holder was still intact . the plume holder was lots of holes in a clump on the back of the helmet made of brass and a brass ring round the top just above the ear
Incredible craftsmanship, but it's only really good for show peace as is. While the edge of the helm is flared back some there is still an edge to it, to be safe for actual use you should roll the edges that have the greatest potential for contact with skin (even though you'd normally be wearing mail with it).
Just google it for your town/city but even some Car Factors (auto shops) sell it as they are used for panels. You must make sure to get either 16 or 18 gauge (1.2mm - 1.5mm)
Not particularly. Actually, the reason that a tank's armor plating is at a 45 degree angle is that the angle forces a bullet to pass through the armor where it is twice as thick. A slope this severe wouldn't really add much protection, but it does look nice doesn't it?
A viking-normann-bascinet-greathelm hybrid phantasy helmet... Very very good work but not historical. Protection: The optimal thickness for the historical level of protection is around 14-13 ga. (And you have to wear a padded hat under this.)
Tamás Borz I fight in a live steel group and in that group your helm needs to be minimum 3mm thick, I'm not sure what the equates to in gague, but I absolutely agree it's too thin, but I think it's fairly accurate, maybe not 100% to any specific piece, but very little was standardized pre-1700 (not sure of the exact date I just know it was around that time frame that it became more common) and also in all honesty I think a helmet that suits your needs made custom for the purpose is more historically accurate than one based on a museum price in some ways
3 mm is 11 ga (actually, smaller ga number is the thicker, i don't know, why...). More protection is always good, espetially, if you using it for real fights! ;-) I learned it several weaks before, that there where helmets like this at the late 1300's and in the 1400's, but i read more about the helmets of the 1000's to the1200's, this is why i belived earlier, this is only a fantasy helmet. I'm in a group of a Hungarian historical reenactment group in my city, and because we doing it very seriusly, we can use only fully realistic swords, helmets, clothes and shoes, so it's really important for me. (For example: we need to show pictures about original battleaxes from museums, before we can order from the blacksmith for ourself, without a sharpe edge... :-) )
Well, sloped armor is what I was originally going on about. I don't know if either could be employed on such a small scale, which is why most ballistic protection ditches the whole thing and goes for (relatively) single-use ceramic plating covered with Kevlar. Even then most helmets are just ceramic! PROTIP: Avoid getting shot in the head! :)
Beautiful helmet however it raises an issue that has been bugging me for some time. We seriously don't know how good most armour was. I mean we are clueless. That is somebody will take a reproduction helmet of some sort that most likely is only work hardened or dead soft and stick it on a post or something and hit it with something and say that's what happened when properly made armour was hit when worn by a human. It can't be at least in part because no human is going to offer the kind of resistance the post does. The blow that crushed or pierced the armor on display might have knocked a human down with little damage to the armour or not. The same with various other parts of the armour. There is no way for people like myself to judge how effective any of it was against the weapons it would have needed to resist.
False; there are ways to test armor resistance, and we know about how effective different armors were at stopping different blows. Where the real issue comes in, is that often, the people doing tests aren't using proper methods. Firstly, that post probably isn't wearing a chain coif and padded cap underneath the helm. Secondly, you're exactly right - you can hit armor in such a way that it drops a human to their knees without doing any visible damage to the armor. American football players face that exact issue; the helmet looks fine, the padding looks fine, nobody is bleeding, but they're suffering concussions and brain trauma with each hit. The only way to test for that kind of injury is to put an accelerometer on a head-analog and see what kind of forces it is subjected to; but really, a helmet does almost nothing to stop that. Plate can stop a sword dead. Unless the sword is somehow harder than the armor material (like steel swords vs. bronze armor) there is simply no way for the sword to cut through. If the wielder is prodigiously strong, and/or the sword is quite heavy, you can perhaps crush the armor and break the bones beneath. This is why hammers, maces, and spikes became the weapon of choice for dealing with a knight - they either impart a huge force from their increased mass, or they focus a lot of force onto a small point and pierce through. Really, plate is not that much more effective than chain, when it comes to stopping a blow. An edged weapon still has trouble getting through chain, and most of the "shock absorption" on armor (to prevent crush injuries) is coming from the padded cloth worn beneath. There is a prevailing myth that plate is better at stopping arrows than chain, because the narrow point of the arrow can possibly get in between the links. Properly made chain however, only offers gaps of a few millimeters, and any arrow small enough to pierce that (a bodkin) is going to apply enough PSI to get through plate as well. What made plate so popular was less about protection, and more about weight. Plate armor provides the same protection as chain, but weighs less and better distributes that weight over the body. Where this falls apart (somewhat) is when you start looking at later period jousting plate, and bullet-proofed chest armor. These were definitely the most protective armor money could buy, but they both gave up the weight-saving advantages of using plate over linked chain. Because plate started out lighter by nature, they could add more and more thickness to the metal. The sheer weight of jousting armor was where we get stories about knights not being able to stand up if knocked down, or needing to be hoisted onto their horses; the armor wasn't meant for mobility and combat, it was meant for sitting on a horse and getting whacked with pole. The later bullet proofed armor, was also made thicker, but usually only in the chest and usually the rest of the pieces were either regular plate or were discarded altogether. Once firearms became powerful enough to pierce even these defenses, armor was eschewed entirely.
Hey the kid did almost everything right, save for tempering. No need to be a dick, it still takes skill. He likely used what he had handy, hence that I-beam anvil I seen at 1:22 (I-beam/Railtrack= best poor mans anvil). You got to start somewhere and this guy shows initiative in just his improvised setup alone.
I get my sheet steel from a local metal supplier. If your looking to buy ask to see any cut offs they might have. Shops usually sell that stuff cheaper.
I like to see the use of Home Grown dies and tools. But your dishes, where did you get them? They are so different from what I have seen other places. Great job by the way, I am just getting geared up to start experimenting soon myself.
Is there any way that you could upload the patterns you used or at least post the dimensions of each piece? I also enjoy metalwork and would like to try to replicate your helmet.
did you make a lot of your blocks to forge with? been thinking of starting a little hobby on the side doing this and am curious for info from those who have experience. i go to conventions and most people don't like to give up their secrets due to losing sales.
Brandon Popham Gloves can be dangerous. If you work with power tools, it's often best to not have them on, as they can get caught by the tool and pull your hand into it.
Brandon Popham People tend not to use them with their hammering hand because you lose the feeling of the hammer, which can often tell you things about your work, like feeling when you're near the anvil while using a punch. Your supporting hand can usually be gloved without missing anything though.
For those thinking of getting into armour making... this is a great example of cold steel work. DO NOT use heat or a forge if you are just getting started in armouring .... learn how metal moves and works cold first... once you get the cold method down then you can start using heat in your work. Once you start using heat you must also learn how to properly heat treat your metal work so that it retains it's strength if you are using it for SCA or metal blade combat.
Chad O'Neill I am currently looking for sites or anything helpful tutorial wise to get me started in armour making, any way you could point me in the correct corner of the internet?
Nothing really tutorial wise.. best I can point you at is the armor archive. There are plenty of patterns that can get you started there. First thing I would do is make a dishing stump and just start banging away on something easy like a sugarloaf helm.
Chad O'Neill Out of curiosity why do you suggest not working hot initially? Mild steel can't be heat treated to nearly the hardness of carbon steel and that's what a lot of period armor is made of (or at least, the period equivalent). So there's not much downside to forging the armor instead of cold forming.
Heated metal moves much faster and much easier into the desired shape. This can lead to over working the metal. When you work with cold metal and start shaping it you learn exactly how the metal moves without overworking it. When you are confident in your skills and then start to apply heat you can shape metal even faster without fear of overworking. Myself after starting cold style I can now work heated metal much more efficiently and with ease compared to friends who have been at this much longer than myself.
Chad O'Neill Okay, I see where you're coming from. But I am a little confused about the notion of overworking hot metal when it requires less work to form. When working cold, you run the risk of making the armor brittle from work hardening due to having to hammer twice as much, and mistakes requiring a lot of effort to sort out again - thus work hardening even further. In contrast, working hot requires less effort, fewer blows, and mistakes are easier and faster to correct. So I'm not sure how you run the risk of over working it, unless you mean reheating the same section over and over again introducing problems.
I appreciate the Elder Scrolls music at the end
I'm sending my SCA friends here. Thank you so much for sharing!
Thanks for sharing. I wasn't sure how to make a good helmet without using any heating or forging. Brilliant and simple crafting, excellent job.
I knew you'd have to put some TES song in the video. Awesome work, man!
Love the music, especially the mgs theme for an intro
All the songs you used I sang in with my choir for the Video Games Live concerts!
Aww did someone steal your sweetroll?
YES...THEN I TOOK IT FROM HIS COLD DEAD CARCASS.
STOP! You have violated the law! Pay the fine or serve the time.
Absolutely brilliant!! Great talent,brother!! Much beers from Uruguay!!!!
Came for cold forging techniques, stayed for the mgs2 music.
Nice work... I would have rolled the lower rear helm edges as well as the visor. A flute along the center band would have accented the flute in the visor very well and made for a very very nicely finished helm. All in all a very nice piece.. keep up the good work.
Awesome helmet and excellent taste in video game music!
Thanks. The little I know about making armor was through trial and error. Experiment! With a little patience and time you'll be able to make things far better!
Great work I’m really impressed
Such an awesome craftsmanship. Lookin' forward to your future projects. :)
Great work
Beatiful craftsmen work!
Very nice helmet and taste in music
very nice helm you've made there!
Nice work.
You have an excellent taste in music my good sir.
i knew i heard somethin familliar there! Metal gear solid 2 openign theme music by harry gregson williams. hell of a composer!
I found a medieval helmet when metal detecting most of the metal had migrated but a lot of the imprint was still there to see .the neck guard was made of 2 skins and the brass ring and plum holder was still intact . the plume holder was lots of holes in a clump on the back of the helmet made of brass and a brass ring round the top just above the ear
pretty cool design man! nice job
Nice work
ASMR for real men
This was very informative, thank you. I mostly commented to tell you I love your music selection :D
Nice helmet, keep up the good crafting
That took 20 minutes? It's a piece of art!
epic helmet, master blacksmith
Thats one, extra fine, visored great helm.
I abso-fucking-lutely love your work man. I make minatures of armor but still I would love you to teach me how to smith. Great job!
great craftsman ship!
well done!
Very very very good job
Big Boss is proud of you...
Congratulations, very good job, can you give me measurements of helmet or insoles?
Kandosii Vode! Ori’jate buy’ce!
Incredible craftsmanship, but it's only really good for show peace as is. While the edge of the helm is flared back some there is still an edge to it, to be safe for actual use you should roll the edges that have the greatest potential for contact with skin (even though you'd normally be wearing mail with it).
7.10 mass effect soundtrack XD! great worck, compliment!
Was Mass Effect actually good?
Cool scribing tool!
very nice jobs
Just google it for your town/city but even some Car Factors (auto shops) sell it as they are used for panels. You must make sure to get either 16 or 18 gauge (1.2mm - 1.5mm)
Bravo! Well done sir! I shall do the same!
I was grooving to Korobeinki towards the end
Not particularly. Actually, the reason that a tank's armor plating is at a 45 degree angle is that the angle forces a bullet to pass through the armor where it is twice as thick. A slope this severe wouldn't really add much protection, but it does look nice doesn't it?
A viking-normann-bascinet-greathelm hybrid phantasy helmet...
Very very good work but not historical.
Protection: The optimal thickness for the historical level of protection is around 14-13 ga. (And you have to wear a padded hat under this.)
Tamás Borz I fight in a live steel group and in that group your helm needs to be minimum 3mm thick, I'm not sure what the equates to in gague, but I absolutely agree it's too thin, but I think it's fairly accurate, maybe not 100% to any specific piece, but very little was standardized pre-1700 (not sure of the exact date I just know it was around that time frame that it became more common) and also in all honesty I think a helmet that suits your needs made custom for the purpose is more historically accurate than one based on a museum price in some ways
3 mm is 11 ga (actually, smaller ga number is the thicker, i don't know, why...). More protection is always good, espetially, if you using it for real fights! ;-)
I learned it several weaks before, that there where helmets like this at the late 1300's and in the 1400's, but i read more about the helmets of the 1000's to the1200's, this is why i belived earlier, this is only a fantasy helmet. I'm in a group of a Hungarian historical reenactment group in my city, and because we doing it very seriusly, we can use only fully realistic swords, helmets, clothes and shoes, so it's really important for me. (For example: we need to show pictures about original battleaxes from museums, before we can order from the blacksmith for ourself, without a sharpe edge... :-) )
Tamás Borz same here actually my group is 1400-1600 and were called the iron Hart vanguard
historical 1.5-2.5 mm (16-13 ga) was the most typical
Great helmet
This if this helmet went back to the middle ages then it would be nearly useless. But this is craftman is a boss without heating anything.
Metal gear solid!
Thank you so so much this was so helpful
Lol I like the Tetris theme
Well, sloped armor is what I was originally going on about. I don't know if either could be employed on such a small scale, which is why most ballistic protection ditches the whole thing and goes for (relatively) single-use ceramic plating covered with Kevlar. Even then most helmets are just ceramic! PROTIP: Avoid getting shot in the head! :)
If I asked you to make me a helmet exactly like that how much would it cost
tree fiddy
amazing!!!
FANTASTIC !!!!!
You dont happen to have measurements for this do you? If been making only blade but would love to start armor
elder scroll music in final , ooohhh very
the music of the videogames is relaxing
Beautiful helmet however it raises an issue that has been bugging me for some time. We seriously don't know how good most armour was. I mean we are clueless. That is somebody will take a reproduction helmet of some sort that most likely is only work hardened or dead soft and stick it on a post or something and hit it with something and say that's what happened when properly made armour was hit when worn by a human. It can't be at least in part because no human is going to offer the kind of resistance the post does. The blow that crushed or pierced the armor on display might have knocked a human down with little damage to the armour or not. The same with various other parts of the armour. There is no way for people like myself to judge how effective any of it was against the weapons it would have needed to resist.
False; there are ways to test armor resistance, and we know about how effective different armors were at stopping different blows.
Where the real issue comes in, is that often, the people doing tests aren't using proper methods. Firstly, that post probably isn't wearing a chain coif and padded cap underneath the helm. Secondly, you're exactly right - you can hit armor in such a way that it drops a human to their knees without doing any visible damage to the armor. American football players face that exact issue; the helmet looks fine, the padding looks fine, nobody is bleeding, but they're suffering concussions and brain trauma with each hit. The only way to test for that kind of injury is to put an accelerometer on a head-analog and see what kind of forces it is subjected to; but really, a helmet does almost nothing to stop that.
Plate can stop a sword dead. Unless the sword is somehow harder than the armor material (like steel swords vs. bronze armor) there is simply no way for the sword to cut through. If the wielder is prodigiously strong, and/or the sword is quite heavy, you can perhaps crush the armor and break the bones beneath. This is why hammers, maces, and spikes became the weapon of choice for dealing with a knight - they either impart a huge force from their increased mass, or they focus a lot of force onto a small point and pierce through.
Really, plate is not that much more effective than chain, when it comes to stopping a blow. An edged weapon still has trouble getting through chain, and most of the "shock absorption" on armor (to prevent crush injuries) is coming from the padded cloth worn beneath. There is a prevailing myth that plate is better at stopping arrows than chain, because the narrow point of the arrow can possibly get in between the links. Properly made chain however, only offers gaps of a few millimeters, and any arrow small enough to pierce that (a bodkin) is going to apply enough PSI to get through plate as well. What made plate so popular was less about protection, and more about weight. Plate armor provides the same protection as chain, but weighs less and better distributes that weight over the body.
Where this falls apart (somewhat) is when you start looking at later period jousting plate, and bullet-proofed chest armor. These were definitely the most protective armor money could buy, but they both gave up the weight-saving advantages of using plate over linked chain. Because plate started out lighter by nature, they could add more and more thickness to the metal. The sheer weight of jousting armor was where we get stories about knights not being able to stand up if knocked down, or needing to be hoisted onto their horses; the armor wasn't meant for mobility and combat, it was meant for sitting on a horse and getting whacked with pole. The later bullet proofed armor, was also made thicker, but usually only in the chest and usually the rest of the pieces were either regular plate or were discarded altogether. Once firearms became powerful enough to pierce even these defenses, armor was eschewed entirely.
Hey the kid did almost everything right, save for tempering. No need to be a dick, it still takes skill. He likely used what he had handy, hence that I-beam anvil I seen at 1:22 (I-beam/Railtrack= best poor mans anvil). You got to start somewhere and this guy shows initiative in just his improvised setup alone.
Awesome!
I get my sheet steel from a local metal supplier. If your looking to buy ask to see any cut offs they might have. Shops usually sell that stuff cheaper.
Is that a greathelm and armet hybrid ? Damn , surely looks cool.
Do you have any patterns available?
+oyababu at 17:14 i seen an imperfection on the top of the visor. other than that, very cool.
excellent craftsmanship
That GTA IV theme got me :D
I like to see the use of Home Grown dies and tools. But your dishes, where did you get them? They are so different from what I have seen other places. Great job by the way, I am just getting geared up to start experimenting soon myself.
+t w I heard you can get similar dishes if you can get the bottom of a gas tank, or you could cut them out of a tree stump
+Gloin79 thanks for the tip 😎
How much? It looks epic
Exelent!
NICE!!!
Great Work! Do you know which radius the half of the "Bowl" had before you hammered it round?
How long did this take you? Planning on building my own soon for a uni project but I'm on a tight time scale!!
was that the elder scrolls IV: oblivion music at the end of the video?
Alguien sabe de un canal de algo similar pero con un herrero tradicional estos vídeos son geniales pero sería aún mejor ver cómo lo hacían antes
I might attempt something like this! But instead, would duralumin work? It will most likely be for display/costuming
I want to try.
Is there any way that you could upload the patterns you used or at least post the dimensions of each piece? I also enjoy metalwork and would like to try to replicate your helmet.
muito complicado fabricar um desses com equipamentos tecnológicos de hoje, imaginar dois mil anos atrás, como era
Hell nah
that is nice helmet
How'd you get the corners of the eyes
did you make a lot of your blocks to forge with? been thinking of starting a little hobby on the side doing this and am curious for info from those who have experience. i go to conventions and most people don't like to give up their secrets due to losing sales.
how long its take to make somthing like this
Want to make one we're do I find a pattern for one to get started
I am immensely jealous BTW...
the audio and transitions leave a lot to be desired but fantastic helm, gorgeous work
could you tell me were to find templates for this style of helmet ?
Please, Can you tell me where did you buy those swage block? I cannot find any online shop :(
can I get the template for that?
Agreed! :)
How about Sloped and Spaced armor?
will it add some protection? O.o
outfreaking standing !!!!!
Excellent work, are you self taught?
Ain't no body got time for that!
Beautiful!! can you share the templates parts to make it in paper, thanks!!
METAL GEAR!!!
is there a template we can download for this
What type of carbon steel would you recommend? EN9?
Hey where'd you get that "bowl" for your vice? I've been looking high and low for that.
I work with metal a lot so why no gloves and another question is how long is the process to make it
Brandon Popham Gloves can be dangerous. If you work with power tools, it's often best to not have them on, as they can get caught by the tool and pull your hand into it.
I know not to use them with power tools but when using a hammer and stuff
Brandon Popham People tend not to use them with their hammering hand because you lose the feeling of the hammer, which can often tell you things about your work, like feeling when you're near the anvil while using a punch. Your supporting hand can usually be gloved without missing anything though.