Mr. WoodBob, I needed a refresher as I have three boxes in the works. Anyway, your video fast forwards starting at 11:14 and runs through 11:49. Was going to ask what purpose of blue tape was, but you covered that later - thanks for refresher.
Dear Mr. WoodBob, I would love to hear how you addressed the wood movement for lid top panel and box bottom. Are these solid wood mitered corners or Tongue and groove or any other mechanism? Video was great!!!
Thank you! For the bottom, the panel is 1/8" plywood in a dado and not glued (with room). For the top, it is all solid wood in a rabbet joint with a very narrow gap. That inlay hides the gap. It is mostly glued (not all) and I have never had an issue with any of my box lids separating due to wood movement.
The hinge catching is some sort of defect in the hinges themselves. If you notice when your box is upside down it won't do it. I think the top of the catch hangs down too low so I wrap a small piece of copper wire strand through the top hole and it seems to fix it
Very nice! I was wondering. Can this hinge operate without the bar that submerges in the walls? Id like to save some time on Tea boxes hinge tops. Thanks and Happy New Year.
The hinge catching is some sort of defect in the hinges themselves. If you notice when your box is upside down it won't do it. I think the top of the catch hangs down too low so I wrap a small piece of copper wire strand through the top hole and it seems to fix it
All these gadgets to make things easier take forever, way too much time to set everything up and it seems unnecessary. Those type hinges need a space carved into the back of the mortise or the bar will bind, it's not the hinges, it's the installation.
Beautiful box
Mr. WoodBob, I needed a refresher as I have three boxes in the works. Anyway, your video fast forwards starting at 11:14 and runs through 11:49. Was going to ask what purpose of blue tape was, but you covered that later - thanks for refresher.
Dear Mr. WoodBob, I would love to hear how you addressed the wood movement for lid top panel and box bottom. Are these solid wood mitered corners or Tongue and groove or any other mechanism? Video was great!!!
Thank you! For the bottom, the panel is 1/8" plywood in a dado and not glued (with room). For the top, it is all solid wood in a rabbet joint with a very narrow gap. That inlay hides the gap. It is mostly glued (not all) and I have never had an issue with any of my box lids separating due to wood movement.
The hinge catching is some sort of defect in the hinges themselves. If you notice when your box is upside down it won't do it. I think the top of the catch hangs down too low so I wrap a small piece of copper wire strand through the top hole and it seems to fix it
Great video. Question. Does Rockler suggest the proper router bits, collar, and drill sizes?
Very nice! I was wondering. Can this hinge operate without the bar that submerges in the walls? Id like to save some time on Tea boxes hinge tops. Thanks and Happy New Year.
Yes it will work you don't need to install that bar at all. But then you would not have a stop when the box opens it would go all the way back.
Great video dude! very instructive. What about a pair of shoes? you need to be safe. Thanks!
Did you ever figure out how to fix the “catching” in the hinge. I’ve done several boxes and still haven’t solved it.
The hinge catching is some sort of defect in the hinges themselves. If you notice when your box is upside down it won't do it. I think the top of the catch hangs down too low so I wrap a small piece of copper wire strand through the top hole and it seems to fix it
All these gadgets to make things easier take forever, way too much time to set everything up and it seems unnecessary. Those type hinges need a space carved into the back of the mortise or the bar will bind, it's not the hinges, it's the installation.
Can you write the hinge dimensions please?
Put shoes on, shop safety first
Too much setup unless your making a batch, rather hand tool it.