A simple way to master camera metering
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- Опубліковано 13 вер 2024
- In this video I discuss my simple but effective process for learning how to use your metering modes.
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Thanks Martin for all the great videos that you are making! It’s really something different with your experience and hands-on approach. I’ve been shooting as a hobbyist for more than 5 years now, and yet you have opened my eyes on some basic things, in a way, keep it simple. Thank you!
Practice practice practice, thanks for confirming and also pointing out some misconceptions
Thank you Martin, great video. I would love to see a video with images and explanations using examples. I'm new to photography and English is not my first language, so this would be really helpful.
That makes sense. Thank you, sir!
Very useful, thanks Martin, much appreciated.
Quick Q for maybe a future Q&A please?
Lots of people talk about that lovely Canon colour science, but this applies to OOC jpeg’s only? If I shoot raw, then the colours are dependent on the raw converter and processing software? Even my monitor settings, Colour space, etc? Lots of variables.
How can I know I am actually witnessing those lovely real Canon colours?
Sorry I know it’s a noob question, but I got a 6D a few months back (loving it) and I am trying to learn it seriously and studiously. It’s a new hobby for my retirement. Many thanks!
There will be difference in how raw files respond to changes. I have 6d and I also have a fun little sony a57, and the way a57 raw file responds when moving sliders in lightroom is good bit different than how 6d file will respond. It's usually less work to get skin color right on canon 6d (usually just color temp and tint change), while on a57 I always have to also dial down or shift red/purple/magenta in color mixer especially if a subject has a lot of tiny surface veins on their face.
@@1906aldo Thank you, that is very helpful.
Thank you Martin for this video. A long time ago I learned this while shooting on slide film.
Learning your camera and practicing is solid advice. Stick with manual mode. Once you learn it, you will get solid, repeatable results. Almost one year in on owning my 5D MKII, and I have been getting amazing shots using this strategy. It is not eaay, but worth the initial struggles.
Absolutely great to learn manual mode and fully understand it. But to stick with it thinking this is the absolute best way to get the best results is just not true. You get the best results by the way that works for you once you learn the basics of photography.
Thankx for another great video ! Get to know your gear is key indeed. Practicing really helps so much. It's one thing to read something and another thing to actually do it and experience it. Easier to remember.
Thanks, as always, for your content and efforts. Can I suggest a different topic to simplify? Actually, 2 intertwined concepts? 1: Color space (I'll add more down below). 2. Bit-depth. Here's why. Friends and I talk photography a bunch and we are all amateurs. This topic came up this week. 1. Does it make any difference (setting your camera to sRGB or Adobe (a) RGB if a). You shoot RAW, b) your monitor doesn't display it, and c) you upload your images to social media, bur rarely print. Of course there are lots of permutations here (i.e. does it make sense to edit in photoshop in aRBG if your monitor doesn't display it? And so even if printing, is it doing you any good to edit in a larger colorspace. When you supply clients with your work, what did you use? To point 2. At what point does using 14-bit depth over 12 make sense? I have heard the argument that if you shoot at higher ISOs, it really doesn't matter. As a last topic, and aside, Photoshop can work in the "calculated" 16-bit depth. What's going on here and why use it? ;-) Thank you Martin. I'm sure I'm not the only one with this question. I often wonder what photographers that supply photos to SI (Sports Ill), Glamour, etc. are asked to use.
Damn, there is just no getting away from homework in photography! Here is a really daft question: exposure compensation has no consequence if you're in manual mode (unless auto eyesso 😅). But what about metering (obviously it affects the exposure gauge in the optical view finder)? Doesn't it also affect AF?
Do you ever use the Live Histogram and adjust for proper exposure?
Yes I have a video on that too
Thanks Martin, another really helpful video.
Glad it was helpful!
Great advice as always, thanks!
I use spot metering a lot. My GF is black. And I've had some disappointing silhouette pictures 😄Maybe I'll try evaluative metering again. I sometimes wonder if Canon, and Lightroom have unconscious prejudice to fairer skin. That's not to be taken too seriously 😉
it is biased thats for sure. you just need to work out how much compensation you need to dial in all the time.
I've always assumed that matrix metering simply added up all the pixels in a scene and averaged them but after looking into it a bit more it's a bit more complex than that. It typically divides the frame into several zones then analyses each zone for brightness., colour, contrast and sometimes focus distance then compares the data to a database of typical scene patterns then uses that info to determine the exposure. It usually gives more weight to the centre of the frame and the area where the camera is focusing. So it makes sense what you were saying about different cameras interpreting scenes slightly differently.
Interesting, thanks Martin!!
Zone system? Learn to see zone 7 (white with detail) or zone 3 (Black with detail) and adjust up or down 2 stops or whatever is needed. No need to look at the back of the LCD once you learn to see.
Martin, I understand the exposure triangle and how it’s changing my image. But what is exposure compensation actually doing in the background? It is not changing my parameters that I can see, the aperture/shutter/ISO remain as I set them. I can only deduce exposure compensation is likely changing the 18% gray to something higher or lower to achieve my desired image. Is that correct? Thanks! Hope you’re well. Keith
If you are setting aperture, ISO, and shutter (basically going full manual), exposure comp does nothing. Exposure comp only applies when you are letting the camera control at least one of those three, and is your way to tell the camera that it is metering too light or dark and needs to adjust. For example, say you are in aperture priority, and letting the camera set the shutter (we’ll leave the ISO fixed for this discussion). Your scene has bright and dark zones, and the camera is running the shutter so quickly that you are underexposing the darker areas badly. That is when you use the exposure comp and bump it up a stop or two - by bumping it up, the camera will slow the shutter down without you having to manual check.
@@Skipsul I've often wondered what it was for, but I usually use manual. I need to try other modes for times when I need more speed. Then I need to try to understand this better.
as @skipsul says. I think for myself I need to try to remember what it was like learning photography, I want to make better tutorials and these questions help me think of this.
👍
are you online lessons only cover editing?
At the moment yes
Does anyone use a grey card anymore? Used to be one in nearly every camera bag.
I think the problem with them is they are too slow for a lot of photography and also not really needed these days. Its better to learn your camera so you actually know it so you dont need to rely on things like grey cards. Grey carding everything is extremely slow unfortunately.
So to summarise,as my dear old mother used to say,"suck it and see."...................................................
pretty much yes