Cush Core was a game changer in many ways, but one of the main benefits was I could ride lower PSI. You gotta try it!! Ride 35 up front and 32 in the rear and you will get so much more performance from your tires. 6’2 330
@@james-hb5tu Yup, DOT fluid is DOT fluid, it doesn't matter who made it (bike brand or automotive brand) as its designed to meet exactly the same specification. Obviously there are differences between DOT 4 and 5.1 (and other types) but DOT 4 for a car is the same as DOT 4 for a bike etc.
You can also use motocycle fork oil in mtb forks if it matches the specs :) Most of bike related fluids are just automotive fluids repacted into different bottles and sold for twice the price
Tips for big guys everywhere after my trials and tribulations: 1. Use a lower volume air can shock (float x or Superdeluxe). It will keep your rear pressures in a normal-ish range and help you get correct sag 2. Zeb > 38. The air spring design in the 38 requires a lot more pressure than other equivalent forks, and the max psi rating is higher (163 on zeb vs 140 on 38). I weigh 250 and in my zeb I run 90psi for 18% sag, I had to run 135psi in my 38 for same sag. 3. TRP brakes are a game changer. I thought codes were great until I tried them, I will never run anything else again. If not, get at least 2.0mm thick rotors like the Sram HS2 or Magura for whatever brakes you are running 4. More tire pressure. Don’t base it off of what your 160lb buddies ride. Your tire contact patch will be the same at a higher pressure as lighter guys at lower pressures, and it’ll save your rims and tires
@@kingflynxi9420 I should say specifically the trail evo or dhr evo. They’re just the most powerful and most resistant to fade. They’re easy to bleed like shimano, but more consistent (no wandering bite point), have a ton of power, and pads are easy to find. They also use 2.3mm thick rotors which helps a lot with heat dissipation and fade resistance
@@kingflynxi9420 they feel way better and have more power. Most high end brakes work much better than codes. Hayes, hope, trp, magura they all are so much nicer
I am shop manager in Bentonville Arkansas and I weigh 215 pounds, and everything this man has said is dead accurate. If you can run coil, do it, it’s more reliable and better for heavy guys.
I can confirm the TRP statement. I’ve run them all (Hope, Magura, Grimeca, recently Codes) the TRP DH-EVO are expensive but damn, so powerful, look awesome, super easy to bleed…far better than the codes I took off.
I'm 6'1" and 300 lbs. I'm new to the sport and it's great to see that there are people who are actually bigger than me that can do this. I am trying to lose some pounds, but most of the other UA-camrs I see videos for are like 145-160 lbs if that. So, thanks bro. I guess I gotta subscribe now.
Mate, you are the sole reason why I am getting back into this sport. I used to ride a lot of MTB as a teenager and kid, but now, in my late twenties, I am 201 cm / 6’7 and the same weight as you, and always thought I could never do it again. Thanks for showing that it is even for big guys possible!
6' 4" and 355lbs here. I appreciate another big guy doing fun things. They don't make anything for people our size, so it's always a game of finding what works and being unique with solutions.
I started at 260lbs, getting closer to 200lbs now (6'4"). I would honestly recommend very big people to treat enduro bikes like a trailbike. It just feels so much more stable and composed. It ends up being more in proportion and fitting.
DOT 4/5.1 (Department Of Transportation) Is car fluid and not SRAM specific. Not sure what brand you are using BUT Motul RBF660 is what I use in my Guides...came from my motorcycle :). Its a higher boiling point for track days. I been using it for a couple years in my Guides with no issues :)
I been reading about doing this since that's what I use to run in my sport bike for track days. How does it combat brake fade and boiling? I am 230 and smoke my brakes at the bike park on a regular.
@@corsaroc Well you have 2 sources for brake fade.. Pads and Fluid. The system transfers heat to the fluid so once that begins to boil you get air in the lines and lose pressure, in turn fade. So the higher boiling point of RBF helps there. It doesnt give stronger brakes just more fade resistant. 2 you can overheat the pads and they fade.SO a good pad for higher temps is key like metallic/sintered. Pads and Fluid are compliments to the system. I dont weigh that much so I dont experience fade in the park.
@@chrisjones7281 Thanks for the info. I do think my issue is the boiling. Fresh bleeds on the brakes and they are good for 2 park days then are soft. Granted most of the summer was 90+ when we were at the park but I got into the habit of bleeding after the second day. I don't remember what pads I switched to last but they were the metallic/sintered ones with the cooling fins which seemed to help ( might have been in my head).
Be cool if he got the opposite, hey? Fox (or RS, or any other suspension team) reaching out to him with a bespoke shock designed and built for his weight. That would be awesome! I really hope it happens. Friggen sweet that there are true Clydesdales out there shredding like champions 🤙🏻🤙🏻🤙🏻🤙🏻🤙🏻
6'5" 315 dude here. This is an excellent video for big boy mtbers. Great work. 1. I have never pumped up my rear air shock more than 300psi and I'm kind of blown away you have yours that high. Mine needs to be way higher because my sag is stupid deep. 2. What shock pump do you use? Mine doesn't go above 300. 3. Do you ever break spokes? I break a ton. 4. Have you tried the pedaling innovations Catalyst XL pedals? I only have a size 13 shoe but I LOOOOVE these pedals.
Similar size to you, there's ton of pumps between 350-400 psi. Check out fox pumps, but there's many. I run DT Swiss EX511/ 350 hubs with comp spokes and never have issues. If EX rims aren't enough get DT Swiss FR 541 rims, and always, always 32 spokes Front/Rear FR541 rear and EX511 front maybe the perfect combo for you. Last but not least, find the best wheel builder!
I find that if I have to stay on top of my spoke tension otherwise I break off the heads of the spokes normally on the non drive side of the rear wheel. The Blackburn digital pump is rated for 350 psi.
Go with a float X or SDU out back, you’ll be able to get the sag you want with much less pressure. Enduro is a super high leverage frame and that combined with the x2’s huge negative air spring is what’s preventing you from getting the sag you want. Either one of those other shocks I’d bet you would be around 350psi (only 25 over max) and be able to get 30% sag
I wonder how his stumpy evo is set up in comparison. It is a VERY linear frame that is usually the opposite of what a large rider wants. As a 250lb rider I find that I have to be particular about how progressive the rear linkage (I prefer VERY progressive back ends like what you see on Knollys or Rocky Mountain) is or get a cascade link which my current bike has. At his weight he's pushing the design limits of the shock, where I only need to run 280psi in my shock despite the higher leverage ratio of the cascade link
With ~340lbs, 60mm shock stroke, and 170mm travel you would need a 800lbs/inch coil. EXT offers them. How do I know? I have a 65mm stroke 800lbs/inch coil right here.
Running the wrong fluid in your brakes can cause your seals to either swell up or perish which in turn will stop your brakes from working. You saying that you use "car brake fluid" i assume you meen D.O.T. fluid and all dot oil is the same regardless of brand, so D.o.t. 4 from two different companies will be identical this goes for 5.1 too. On most d.o.t brakes 4 and 5.1 are interchangeable but NOT 5.0. Sounds like you have a placebo with your oil.
Awesome vid! I weigh 260, down from 340. Adjusting pressures on my bike is all over the place but air pressures are getting a little lower lol. Seeing another large person biking is motivating, Thank you! Did you crash and hurt your arm? lol
I thought I ran high PSI in my X2 as a big guy, but you've got me beat by a country mile! I wish manufacturers would pay attention to a broader audience than the old "average" and give us some options for suspension tuning/settings.
My buddy was trying to find a way to loose weight and so when he turned to me and my friend group, (we've all been biking for 30+ years) he was devastated to find that no bike would fit him because of his weight. This is super helpful!! I will show him this video not to replicate it, but to show him its possible to do what he knows he'll love.
There are a few frame builders out there that build frames specifically for very large/very tall riders, they're generally hardtails, but a good fitting hardtail will probably be great vs riding a bike that may be too small if this friend is very tall
@@mrvwbug4423 We found a bike from a custom frame builder. Connected with him through some friends but your totally right! His bike did actually end up being a Hardtail
I'm 6'4" 240 lbs and I'm struggling with a lot of the same issues you are. Upgrading my rotors to 200mm and 220mm was a revelation! I can now stop on a dime! I'm still trying to figure out how to dial in my suspension, though. I feel like it's always too stiff because of how high the air pressure is in both my fork and shock. I've tried different volume spacers, too, and I can never quite get it right.
Send it in to get valved for your weight and riding style. The clickers on suspension products are made for people who fall inside of a pretty narrow band of "average" weight riders. Exception being something like the Fox X2, but that's a whole other can of worms and tuning always ends up compromised on those IMO. Stiff is good if it means "supportive" but not so much if it means "lacks sensitivity." If you feel like you lack sensitivity then you will greatly benefit from a custom valving mentioned above. Something that can also make the bike feel stiff or harsh on the trail is lack of rebound damping. With higher spring rates, a rebound revalve is almost always required. You'd be amazed in how much difference having the extra high-speed rebound damping makes. At least one advantage heavier riders have is that in air-sprung suspension we are fighting against seal friction a lot less than lighter riders!
Same stats here. Best fork upgrade I made was a negative air spring upgrade to offset the higher pressures. Brings the plushness back. Running MRP kit on a fox 36
Hot tips for the big boys. 1: DT Swiss ratched hubs are really strong. 2: Fox float X runs at lower pressure than other air shocks. 3: Shimano brake pads with cooling fins work. 4: Maxxis double down tire casings are stiff but comply to the trail.
@@fat.chance low leverage 29ers don't exist. the low leverage rate recommendation is also for riders who don't get sendy. With modern air shocks and progressive rate coils I would actually suggest a cascade linked big travel bike. Stacking a super linear bike with spacers just makes for a bike that is super choppy off the top and will clap HARD on big hits, I can attest to this as a 250lb rider on a Ripmo, cascade link made a huge difference for me.
Great vid. Coming from another big fella (135kg an 6'8), when you pick a bike consider leverage ratio as much as you consider reach. It will help your suspension setup and pressures immensely.
Yup! The Specialzied Enduro's leverage ratio is ~10% higher than most bikes in that category, which means it requires ~10% higher shock pressure to achieve the same amount of sag / support. It also means it requires a ~10% firmer compression tune. Not a great option for heavy riders.
Good rule of thumb is to divide the amount of rear wheel travel by the stroke of the shock to get a rough idea of the leverage ratio of the bike. Lower is better for extremely heavy riders.
Honestly, this was pretty eye-opening - I really took for granted being someone of "average" size in the MTB industry. I'm really glad you're making it work, but in the same breath, I feel that you shouldn't need to. Instead of our industry pushing for increasingly margin gains and gadgets, I'd be completely happy as a consumer to see frames and suspension to accommodate more bodies... of course, that's not how things work though. Glad you made this video and that you exist within the community man! Need more folks like you.
I'm similar to you, 6ft 3" 304lbs butt nakey. I run 120 psi in my 160mm forks with 2 tokens, no tokens in rear 160mm shock but running 280psi and sit at almost 30% sag. 200m rotors on sram guide r kevlar pads. Size L frame could have done with an XL frame really. 2016 enduro comp Trying to find riding clothes in 40" waist/3xl or kneepads that fit is a nightmare
Galfer makes a 246mm rotor that is 2.3mm thick. Codes should have clearance for a 2.3 with the pistons fully retracted. TRP DH-R Evo are designed for 2.3mm thick rotor. DOT 5.1 is DOT 5.1. Car fluid can be used and is recommended, since DOT 5.1 is the spec of the fluid. You might be able to get away with coil rear by running a heavy coil(Fox has 700, DNM has 750) for a longer stroke shock and then 3d print something to bind some of the coils(the way Sprindex works). This gives a stiffer spring rate without messing with a ton of preload. Getting your suspension valved for your weight will be a lot better than just cranking the knobs closed. I'm not sure if you're supported by Specialized, but other brand DH casing is much more supportive and protective than the Grid Gravity casing. If you're happy with the support you get then no need to change though!
I’m a big guy too. I’ve struggled with suspension setup! But I found a small company in California called fluid focus that tuned my x2 . Now believe it or not I can run 300 / 305 psi in my shock and the knobs actually do what there supposed to do!!! Mainly slow down the rebound! Hope this helps someone out… Ps later I had them tune my fork and it was a game changer..
Gotta say the rig looks sweet man. A guy i ride with is in ur weight range and is bad for just obliterating rear shocks so he ended up getting a custom built coil shock. Diety tmacs are a magic set of flat pedals and bigger than average, the grip on them is nuts.
I ran TMACs for a couple of years and actually broke a spindle on one just pedaling up out of a wash, was fixed under warranty with zero issues. My shins aren't fans of TMACS haha. I just switched to the PNW Loam pedal and the platform is just as big as the TMAC but I find the pins grip better and I get less pedal strikes. However the PNW pedal is lighter than the TMAC and I might wonder if they would hold up to a 300+lb rider. I'm 250lbs and have no concerns.
@@jonnysnakes5417 Yeah, mine look like they went through a war zone, the spindle was definitely a weird failure. Though I'm finding with the PNWs that the people who claim "pins work better than grub screws" on flats may actually be onto something. The feel of the PNWs is better than the TMACs.
SRAM (and others for bikes) brake fluid _is_ car brake fluid... DOT4/DOT5.1 is the same spec no matter who makes it. I would feel perfectly fine putting "bike brake fluid" in my car, and have done the reverse with zero problems.
Cascade components makes an aftermarket link that adds a lot of progressivity to the rear shock. I’m “only” about 250 pounds but I was constantly blowing through the travel as well. I fortunately can run a coil although it’s the stiffest spring I could find at 650 pounds but it pairs perfectly with the cascade link
The Specialized Enduro is already pretty progressive out back, and you have to bump up your spring rate a bit when you go with a cascade link, on my Ripmo I had to add 20psi to the air shock, but it was totally worth it as I was able to pull two spacers out of the air shock (from 5 to 3 on the DVO Topaz). TL;DR it's better to get your suspension progression from the linkage vs the shock
6'6" 320 here. Have you ever gone through rear hub internals(pawls, teeth, bearings)? That was what I seemed to destroy, until I purchased an I9 hub. Those Deity Highrise bars are the shit though, I run the 80 mm rise. I just use enduro tires with Cushcore at about 25 and 30 PSI and my problems were solved, but I am most likely 25 years older than you, so I don't hit the big stuff anymore. Thanks for the video.
I am also about 310-320 lbs. I contacted avalanche suspension they custom built/ tuned a marzochi bomber coil shock for me with an 800lb spring on it. I can say it works so much better than my air shock. I would recommend avalanche hands down
Running a shock that high psi would make me nervous if I'm not mistaken max psi recommended by fox for the X2 is like 260 or something. I just wanted to suggest u try a Rockshox super deluxe ultimate, I have one on my turbo levo and imho it's a much better shock and the max psi on it is 360 so I think would work much better for you. Have fun and be safe!!
Well I, like a lot of the other commenters, am also a larger rider at 280lbs and average height. I’m about to make a big purchase by getting a 2023 Norco Range and was very concerned that I would end of breaking it. I have broken several rear hubs in the past, so it’s nice to see that there are a number of portly fellows like myself that are able to make it work. Thanks for doing what you do!
As a 6'5” tall 330ish pound bike park and dh rider I would like to chime in. I have exclusively run a coil shock on my dh bikes for years. It requires a 650- 700 lb spring from fox and an internal valving change from avalanche downhill racing out of Connecticut. My current supreme dh runs a marzocchi (fox) coil with a valve job and it rides amazing even though the frame is designed with a pretty linear ramp up. My fox 40 has the avalanche racing hybrid coil set up and requires roughly half the air pressure a person our size would need to run and you gain the small bump sensitivity back that an air fork with max pressure lacks. I've run their stuff for years. Please get in contact with Craig over there this winter and I promise you it will change your life.
Not to said mean or uneducated but wouldn’t trying to drop some weight help you have your bike work better for you. This is coming from a moderately overweight guy myself
Bro... You're way bigger than I would have guessed from your videos and your bike sizing. Respect. Having that extra enertia on some of the features you hit brings a difficulty level few people will ever understand. You a bad ass. 🤙
Good stuff guys! I will say, at my biggest I was 301 and I was running 30 psi with Cushcore. You really should start letting some air out and see how much better it feels. I can’t see how you would need more the 40. I ran pressures like you back when I used tubes and it was a game changer once I started running the pressure lower.
@@christiandruan sounds sketchy. I tested 25 PSI front and rear and I started breaking spokes left and right in the rear. I mostly ride chunk rocks with hard pack dirt (most year round) so I had to bump up to 30 PSI in the rear. I do not have Cushcore
His rims won't survive it. Roval Traverses are a trail rim. If he had DT Swiss FR541s or FR560s or EX511s maybe. At 250lbs I killed 2 Ibis S35s in a year at the bike park and that is a burlier rim than the Rovals, I now run FR560s and am pretty much DH or Freeride rims for life at this point.
Specialized would probably love if you did a top 5 every once in awhile where you had your viewers send photos of their Specialized bikes and you pick your favorite top 5 like every other month or so and make a video about those bikes. It would be great for all of the people really proud of their bikes and it's just another video idea with viewer interaction. You could also do it with any brand but idk what you are allowed to do and not do.
Great video. I'm 6' 5" 265 lbs and know some of the issues that you face. Interested to hear what rear hub you are running on those wheels, as that is probably where I have most of my problems with longevity. I run 800mm bars with 75mm rise. Find that this puts me in a good position for riding, and makes the the stack height slightly more proportional when compared to smaller frame bikes relative to increase in rider height.
Main Issue I find with riding as a bigger heavier guy is wheels seem to flex like mad if I push it, actualy been considering running 24" with some 2.7" tyres for the extra strength. Anyone else had issue with wheels flexing like crazy?
I don't jump I don't park I don't downhill I XC and do beginner level forest trails downhill also I'm 220 all I can add is that I tried to run lower pressures on my fox factory 34 and float to make it more plush doesn't really work bike doesn't use more travel outside of jumps you mostly get more sag and pedal pumping you can't make it use full travel on light use that's not how they work so went back to recommended pressures, I also upgraded my brakes but nothing crazy replaced my oem with cooling fins Shimano pads and XT discs with the cooling flap thing, they worked all right for a 21km 13miles downhill from a mountain
If that's an AC joint separation and you're still slinging it after 2 weeks you're hurting yourself quite a bit. I separated mine in October and my PT said DO NOT sling it. You want that puppy getting moved around. He said med practice has changed. Jammed and shit that used to get splinted no longer does. You NEED to move it or you're going to heal stuff and low mobility. Like bruh I get it the weight of your shoulder doesn't feel good on a fucked AC joint but you need that or else your literally gunna be fucked in that arm. It will never be the same if you don't push past pain to build it back up. Get rid of that sling homie
On the contrary to you, i got myself a nice Rockshox coil and bought the stiffest spring for it thinking that i'll solve all my problems. And as soon as i did it i started dropping weight like crazy and now im 40lbs lighter stuck riding 20% sag on a 170 bike because none of the shops had coils made for this shock. I finally bought some coils and now i have like 5 of them with all different stiffness laying around just in case. The bike did feel racey tho, but I'm starting to question my desire to go with a coil shock lol.
as a 260lb rider, I've always been very concerned about breaking modern bikes and have intentionally limited myself to CrMo machines... You've given me the confidence to venture into the world of the modern bike, thank you!
Fox 38 or Rockshox ZEB Ultimate for 140kg Person? Which one can be better adjusted to the high weight? And which damper is best suited? For now I would choose a Fox 38 Factory and Fox Float X2 Factory in a Giant Reign E+ 0 2022.
I have the same bike and I was at 40% sag on the X2 also. I am able to get 20-25% sag with the rockshox super deluxe. I weigh in around 300lbs. I will say, unless you ride a lot of climby tech the 40% sag isn't a deal breaker.
If you thin thats fun…Pick up a rockhopper from the 80s - rigid, 1” steerer, upgrade to vees the cantis arent up to modern enduro courses. My favorite bicycle, 89 stumpy - never felt a bike so nice…
Have you looked into DVO for suspension? They do a lot of custom work. I had a coil shock from them when I was 250lbs that did good and it was basically off the shelf part.
This ^^ the Onyx might be one of the best big guy forks out there, no spacers to fuck with, at 250lbs I'm not even running close to max pressure in the air spring and at 30% sag I generally have to fuck up to hard clap the fork, normal big hits use around 95% of the travel, maybe a soft bottom out on a really big hit.
Have you ever tried more P than the 390psi your running in rear shock and have you ever had a blowout on the shock seals while pumping it up or while riding? Im curious to know how much room is engineered into these from their stated spec max P vs the actual failure threshold P! Thanks for the interesting info!
Started riding at 6'5" 300lbs down to 265. So basically the bike setup is changing itself lol. I have a hardtail so I don't have to worry about any rear suspension yet but I've just been focusing on getting better at the basics. I'm renting a bike at stratton in Oct so we will see how that goes.
Try doubling up on the front discs. Kinda how motorcycles do it. Also, consider a + sized rear tire. A 26x3.0 has the same diameter as a normal 27.5, in case you wanted to run a mullet setup. Pretty sure it's a similar story with 27.5 plus-tires being the same OD as 29er normal tires. Also, general rule of thumb, run rim widths (the ID) about half as big up to +5mm wider than half as wide as your tires. IE a 35-40mm ID rim on a 3" wide tire, or a 30-35mm id rim on a normal 2.35-2.4 inch tire.
Would appreciate some advice here. I was about to push the button on buying a new Canyon Torque CF however the weight limit is 100KG! If I use a non-Canyon dropper its 120KG. I'm 125KG before I put clothes on so by the time I'm ready to ride, I'm pushing 130KG. Has anyone here had any experience with Canyon MTBs and being a heavy rider? One owner I've met is 147KG and isn't concerned by that weight limit. Would be very grateful for any insight.
Hey man, 315lbs rider here I’ve been watching your videos for a while and am curious if you could share tips (perhaps in a video) to help us heavy dudes with braking? I am on both light weight and full fat e-bikes, and run strong TRP dhr brakes, 220mm rotors front and rear, and metallic pads, but on steep downs, I’m still cooking my brakes. I know I could / should modulate them more and that i tend to drag them, but I have to in order to make the next turn or avoid that huge rut up ahead etc. On my latest bike, I glaze every pad I try. It’s starting to become frustrating and is truthfully holding me back a bit with progressing. I’m not yet comfortable with 30+ mph lol. Also, I feel I have to go slower a bit partially due to my suspension not being as plush as I think it ought to be which then makes my lizard brain grab more brake Any tips and tricks for us hefty dudes?
Maybe the Enduro only goes to an S5? On the regular stumpjumper or stump Evo would you typically ride an S5 or an s6? I'm about 6'3 and a half with a tall inseam and the stock S5 seatpost would not go high enough for me without going past the max extension, I do realize that can be swapped. Even with that 50 mm rise bar up front, for your height it looks like that's still pretty slammed down.. ? I struggle a lot to get my stack high enough.
But, but.....DoT is and was always a car brakes fluid.... Its regulated by the goverment/state (DoT=department of transportation), so you will get always the same quality. So DoT 4/5.1, beside the label on the package is always the same and usable for car AND SRAM brakes. SRAM did this on purpose.
Im curious how you are able to overpressure the shock? I'm 260, 290 with all my work crap on...and my fox is 300 psi max. I'd like to go higher. Are you just going past max and saying eff it or do you have a custom seals? I just found you and subbed...big boys on bikes! We always scare the 140 pounders...😂😂
Ive been looking for this info for so mamy years! I too am a fellow giant/ish.. im 6ft 2 and aroumd 340lbs. How do you get so much psi in to the rear shock? I run 325psi which is the "maximum" pressure. But once i pump about 315/320psi in the shock it physically wont let me pump anymore in .. Any ideas on how to bypass the max psi and get a bit more in there? Also will adding spacers help me to stiffen it up a bit more? Cheers! :)
6'3" 315 running a 2021 Altitude and EXT got me sorted with an E-Storia and an 800lb spring and custom valving, not cheap but got me to 30% sag. Couldn't get below 40% previously with the shitty DXP2.
I'm 6'0 230lbs even at max air pressure on my rear shock (280) I also could not get less than 40% sag. I was thinking about getting a coil shock next time but maybe I'll also try going above max spec pressure : ). Unless I can lose some weight before then.
6'8 290 fully geared. I was riding a rockhopper for a year and a half and was bending the hell out of my saddle rails on the stock saddle it came with. I upgraded the saddle to an ergon saddle with Chro-mo rails and it is so solid. I just got a stump jumper and am looking at what all I need to do to make it support me better. The bike shop knows me well and they helped me out a ton getting the suspension fully pumped up and everything, but still feels a little soft. Maybe cause I am used to a hard tail idk.
As a newer MTBer at about 230 lbs. (heavy for my height tbh) anyway I've found that the stock shock and fork on my first bike just struggle. I've ended up swapping out the fork and rear shock within a couple months just to not bottom out constantly. Even then, I'm near the limits on pressure to get the right tune. My point being, at what isn't that ridiculous of a weight I'm not over the specs, but I'm hitting them. Kind of interesting. Does everyone over ~240-250 just have to outright ignore the specs?
I'm 6'1" and 335 on a good day... And on my 2016 Knolly I'm running a bomber cr coil that's been modded and tuned by Avalanche. My fox 38 also has an Avy cartridge in it, it's the hybrid cool/air set up. I blew up a float X2, switched to a dhx2 and hated it. Now, my bikes suspension has never performed better. Highly recommend Avalanche for big boy suspension tuning. I also long shocked my delirium and went from 170mm rear to 185mm rear
I was on 220 and bought me a nice propain tyee. Then I gained some weight and stopped riding because I feared that I would brake my bike. Thanks for proofing me and the tech specs wrong. Let's shredd!
fellow big man here 6'5'' 300lbs What I've noticed is that bike manufactures are " SIZE-IST" they don't make bikes or components that can hold up to us big guys that ride hard! We need a big and tall bike company. Also what freewheel hub are you running? I run the onxy classic and have had great luck with them so far. I've killed so many rear hubs so many times I carry a complete rear wheel setup with me at all times.
At 6'6" and 230 pounds my issue isn't suspension or brakes but more the geometry. I have an XL Marin and I still make it look small. Any bigger and getting round corners would be difficult.
You can put ANY marketing branded DOT 4 or 5.1 into your brakes. Doesn't matter. If you need better brakes try Shimano Saints with metallic pads and ice-tech finned rotors.
I’m heavier then you. I run a EXT Storia on my Banshee Titan. BUT, I’m not sponsored so I bought a bike that function for me, that has the support and the leverage ratio in the suspension platform. I run a 650lb coil and I haven’t bottomed out yet. So for any of you big guys out there’s don’t buy a bike because some UA-camr has it. Do your homework and find a bike that you don’t have to run your suspension out of limit. Also, the FOX X2 is not a big boi shock. However this guy is sponsored and are limit to use there bike, and I can tell you they do not build bikes meant to be ridden by guys big as us.
Def a plus sized gravity rider as well. Love the content for us gravitationally exceptional riders. Question, what shock pump do you use for high volume?
Hey guys I need help I am 5‘9 and about 310-320 and I want mtb and I am over the limit what can happen if I ride a bike and I am over the limit with over 50😅
get you some real brakes, Magura's MT7's and run 2-piece rotors. Are you running a dot5 (higher temp fluid) Sucks there is not a suspension setup that will work for you too.
I´d be a bit concerned about the tire pressure and even more so the shock pressure you are running. I had a tire blow off the rim at around 50 psi when I trying to get a stubborn bead to seat. Bead destroyed and my ears where ringing for several days afterwards. Not something you want to happen while doing a high speed downhill run or landing a jump. And if the shock blows up on you at almost 400 psi. That´s going to be like a grenade going off...be safe out there and maybe do look into a coil a bit more or get a frame with lower leverage ratio.
Fellow 6’6” 330 lbs Specialized rider here. This is the video I’ve been waiting for since I started following this channel. Thank you!
I’m a heavy boy too so I’m copying
They’re both going to copy your bike set up regardless of what you say lol
Damn ,I'm 6' 2 250 😂 ,I always get big tyres to save the stress on everything and all is sweet 🤠🤟🙏
Cush Core was a game changer in many ways, but one of the main benefits was I could ride lower PSI. You gotta try it!! Ride 35 up front and 32 in the rear and you will get so much more performance from your tires.
6’2 330
@@ianmangham4570 hey can you explain a little? Newbie 6’0 270 lbs rider here. Thanks
You can run automotive brake fluid in SRAM without issues, it’s stated in the manual as long as it’s 5.1 or 4(being most common automotive type).
It does nothing to increase performance though
@@james-hb5tu Yup, DOT fluid is DOT fluid, it doesn't matter who made it (bike brand or automotive brand) as its designed to meet exactly the same specification. Obviously there are differences between DOT 4 and 5.1 (and other types) but DOT 4 for a car is the same as DOT 4 for a bike etc.
@@sandy_knight I think 5.1 has a slightly higher boiling point than DOT 4 and DOT 3
You can also use motocycle fork oil in mtb forks if it matches the specs :) Most of bike related fluids are just automotive fluids repacted into different bottles and sold for twice the price
@@james-hb5tu No
Tips for big guys everywhere after my trials and tribulations:
1. Use a lower volume air can shock (float x or Superdeluxe). It will keep your rear pressures in a normal-ish range and help you get correct sag
2. Zeb > 38. The air spring design in the 38 requires a lot more pressure than other equivalent forks, and the max psi rating is higher (163 on zeb vs 140 on 38). I weigh 250 and in my zeb I run 90psi for 18% sag, I had to run 135psi in my 38 for same sag.
3. TRP brakes are a game changer. I thought codes were great until I tried them, I will never run anything else again. If not, get at least 2.0mm thick rotors like the Sram HS2 or Magura for whatever brakes you are running
4. More tire pressure. Don’t base it off of what your 160lb buddies ride. Your tire contact patch will be the same at a higher pressure as lighter guys at lower pressures, and it’ll save your rims and tires
Can you elaborate on the TRP brakes part? What makes them better?
@@kingflynxi9420 I should say specifically the trail evo or dhr evo. They’re just the most powerful and most resistant to fade. They’re easy to bleed like shimano, but more consistent (no wandering bite point), have a ton of power, and pads are easy to find. They also use 2.3mm thick rotors which helps a lot with heat dissipation and fade resistance
@@kingflynxi9420 they feel way better and have more power. Most high end brakes work much better than codes. Hayes, hope, trp, magura they all are so much nicer
I am shop manager in Bentonville Arkansas and I weigh 215 pounds, and everything this man has said is dead accurate. If you can run coil, do it, it’s more reliable and better for heavy guys.
I can confirm the TRP statement. I’ve run them all (Hope, Magura, Grimeca, recently Codes) the TRP DH-EVO are expensive but damn, so powerful, look awesome, super easy to bleed…far better than the codes I took off.
I'm 6'1" and 300 lbs. I'm new to the sport and it's great to see that there are people who are actually bigger than me that can do this. I am trying to lose some pounds, but most of the other UA-camrs I see videos for are like 145-160 lbs if that. So, thanks bro. I guess I gotta subscribe now.
Mate, you are the sole reason why I am getting back into this sport.
I used to ride a lot of MTB as a teenager and kid, but now, in my late twenties, I am 201 cm / 6’7 and the same weight as you, and always thought I could never do it again.
Thanks for showing that it is even for big guys possible!
Same, my only issue is that I constantly seem to start breaking those wheels nut I guess I just need this cushion he mentioned
chucky riders rule !!!! i am 155kg and back on a bike after 40 years !!
Believe me, it is possible. Start easy and smooth. Whistler bikepark is not the goal for beginners. Have fun and everything else comes over the time.
isn't dot 5.1 car fluid for brakes? it's normal
this
6' 4" and 355lbs here. I appreciate another big guy doing fun things. They don't make anything for people our size, so it's always a game of finding what works and being unique with solutions.
Right there with ya 😂
What set up do you run? I'm looking to get a hard tail as my first mtb and looking for a good setup that won't break the bank.
I started at 260lbs, getting closer to 200lbs now (6'4"). I would honestly recommend very big people to treat enduro bikes like a trailbike. It just feels so much more stable and composed. It ends up being more in proportion and fitting.
enduro are bigger then trail? I'm 6"5 240 lbs trying to choose first mtb budget
Short guy offended here. 5’11 isn’t average. You’re a beast and I love you’re riding
Yep I'm average @ 5'8
DOT 4/5.1 (Department Of Transportation) Is car fluid and not SRAM specific. Not sure what brand you are using BUT Motul RBF660 is what I use in my Guides...came from my motorcycle :). Its a higher boiling point for track days. I been using it for a couple years in my Guides with no issues :)
I been reading about doing this since that's what I use to run in my sport bike for track days. How does it combat brake fade and boiling? I am 230 and smoke my brakes at the bike park on a regular.
@@corsaroc Well you have 2 sources for brake fade.. Pads and Fluid. The system transfers heat to the fluid so once that begins to boil you get air in the lines and lose pressure, in turn fade. So the higher boiling point of RBF helps there. It doesnt give stronger brakes just more fade resistant. 2 you can overheat the pads and they fade.SO a good pad for higher temps is key like metallic/sintered. Pads and Fluid are compliments to the system. I dont weigh that much so I dont experience fade in the park.
I commented nearly the same😆
@@chrisjones7281 Thanks for the info. I do think my issue is the boiling. Fresh bleeds on the brakes and they are good for 2 park days then are soft. Granted most of the summer was 90+ when we were at the park but I got into the habit of bleeding after the second day. I don't remember what pads I switched to last but they were the metallic/sintered ones with the cooling fins which seemed to help ( might have been in my head).
You're about to get a cease and desist from so many companies😂😂 haha sick perspective to see this kinda set up. Hope you're recovering well!
Be cool if he got the opposite, hey?
Fox (or RS, or any other suspension team) reaching out to him with a bespoke shock designed and built for his weight.
That would be awesome! I really hope it happens. Friggen sweet that there are true Clydesdales out there shredding like champions 🤙🏻🤙🏻🤙🏻🤙🏻🤙🏻
Awesome video!! I’m 6’9” 350lbs and just bought my first full suspension trying to figure out my rear shock 😂
What bike did you buy ?
6'5" 315 dude here. This is an excellent video for big boy mtbers. Great work.
1. I have never pumped up my rear air shock more than 300psi and I'm kind of blown away you have yours that high. Mine needs to be way higher because my sag is stupid deep.
2. What shock pump do you use? Mine doesn't go above 300.
3. Do you ever break spokes? I break a ton.
4. Have you tried the pedaling innovations Catalyst XL pedals? I only have a size 13 shoe but I LOOOOVE these pedals.
Similar size to you, there's ton of pumps between 350-400 psi. Check out fox pumps, but there's many.
I run DT Swiss EX511/ 350 hubs with comp spokes and never have issues.
If EX rims aren't enough get DT Swiss FR 541 rims, and always, always 32 spokes Front/Rear
FR541 rear and EX511 front maybe the perfect combo for you.
Last but not least, find the best wheel builder!
I find that if I have to stay on top of my spoke tension otherwise I break off the heads of the spokes normally on the non drive side of the rear wheel.
The Blackburn digital pump is rated for 350 psi.
some specific bike shop pumps are rated to 600psi, im sure your lbs has one of these
That is good to know about the shock pumps. Mine only goes to 300 and I need it to go just past that. Otherwise have too much sag for my bike.
Go with a float X or SDU out back, you’ll be able to get the sag you want with much less pressure. Enduro is a super high leverage frame and that combined with the x2’s huge negative air spring is what’s preventing you from getting the sag you want. Either one of those other shocks I’d bet you would be around 350psi (only 25 over max) and be able to get 30% sag
I wonder how his stumpy evo is set up in comparison. It is a VERY linear frame that is usually the opposite of what a large rider wants. As a 250lb rider I find that I have to be particular about how progressive the rear linkage (I prefer VERY progressive back ends like what you see on Knollys or Rocky Mountain) is or get a cascade link which my current bike has. At his weight he's pushing the design limits of the shock, where I only need to run 280psi in my shock despite the higher leverage ratio of the cascade link
I was gonna say I thought SRAM used Dot fluid in their brakes, car fluid can't be that different
With ~340lbs, 60mm shock stroke, and 170mm travel you would need a 800lbs/inch coil. EXT offers them. How do I know? I have a 65mm stroke 800lbs/inch coil right here.
Us big boys have to do some shady things to get our bikes running!
Running the wrong fluid in your brakes can cause your seals to either swell up or perish which in turn will stop your brakes from working. You saying that you use "car brake fluid" i assume you meen D.O.T. fluid and all dot oil is the same regardless of brand, so D.o.t. 4 from two different companies will be identical this goes for 5.1 too. On most d.o.t brakes 4 and 5.1 are interchangeable but NOT 5.0. Sounds like you have a placebo with your oil.
Awesome vid! I weigh 260, down from 340. Adjusting pressures on my bike is all over the place but air pressures are getting a little lower lol. Seeing another large person biking is motivating, Thank you! Did you crash and hurt your arm? lol
I thought I ran high PSI in my X2 as a big guy, but you've got me beat by a country mile! I wish manufacturers would pay attention to a broader audience than the old "average" and give us some options for suspension tuning/settings.
My buddy was trying to find a way to loose weight and so when he turned to me and my friend group, (we've all been biking for 30+ years) he was devastated to find that no bike would fit him because of his weight. This is super helpful!! I will show him this video not to replicate it, but to show him its possible to do what he knows he'll love.
There are a few frame builders out there that build frames specifically for very large/very tall riders, they're generally hardtails, but a good fitting hardtail will probably be great vs riding a bike that may be too small if this friend is very tall
@@mrvwbug4423 We found a bike from a custom frame builder. Connected with him through some friends but your totally right! His bike did actually end up being a Hardtail
I love your videos! And as a bigger guy you are a big inspiration. Nice work man
I'm 6'4" 240 lbs and I'm struggling with a lot of the same issues you are. Upgrading my rotors to 200mm and 220mm was a revelation! I can now stop on a dime! I'm still trying to figure out how to dial in my suspension, though. I feel like it's always too stiff because of how high the air pressure is in both my fork and shock. I've tried different volume spacers, too, and I can never quite get it right.
Send it in to get valved for your weight and riding style. The clickers on suspension products are made for people who fall inside of a pretty narrow band of "average" weight riders. Exception being something like the Fox X2, but that's a whole other can of worms and tuning always ends up compromised on those IMO.
Stiff is good if it means "supportive" but not so much if it means "lacks sensitivity." If you feel like you lack sensitivity then you will greatly benefit from a custom valving mentioned above. Something that can also make the bike feel stiff or harsh on the trail is lack of rebound damping. With higher spring rates, a rebound revalve is almost always required. You'd be amazed in how much difference having the extra high-speed rebound damping makes.
At least one advantage heavier riders have is that in air-sprung suspension we are fighting against seal friction a lot less than lighter riders!
Same stats here. Best fork upgrade I made was a negative air spring upgrade to offset the higher pressures. Brings the plushness back. Running MRP kit on a fox 36
Hot tips for the big boys.
1: DT Swiss ratched hubs are really strong.
2: Fox float X runs at lower pressure than other air shocks.
3: Shimano brake pads with cooling fins work.
4: Maxxis double down tire casings are stiff but comply to the trail.
and buy a low leverage ratio bike! this frame is one of the worst for big guys haha
@@fat.chance low leverage 29ers don't exist. the low leverage rate recommendation is also for riders who don't get sendy. With modern air shocks and progressive rate coils I would actually suggest a cascade linked big travel bike. Stacking a super linear bike with spacers just makes for a bike that is super choppy off the top and will clap HARD on big hits, I can attest to this as a 250lb rider on a Ripmo, cascade link made a huge difference for me.
@fat.chance what's a good medium frame gravel bike to reccomend for a short 300lb rider?
I'm 450 lbs and riding HT, 100 mm travel in the front. No issues.
Great vid. Coming from another big fella (135kg an 6'8), when you pick a bike consider leverage ratio as much as you consider reach. It will help your suspension setup and pressures immensely.
Exactly this, too many buy a special brand because everyone else have one. I did the same until I did my homework!
Yup! The Specialzied Enduro's leverage ratio is ~10% higher than most bikes in that category, which means it requires ~10% higher shock pressure to achieve the same amount of sag / support. It also means it requires a ~10% firmer compression tune. Not a great option for heavy riders.
Good rule of thumb is to divide the amount of rear wheel travel by the stroke of the shock to get a rough idea of the leverage ratio of the bike. Lower is better for extremely heavy riders.
Honestly, this was pretty eye-opening - I really took for granted being someone of "average" size in the MTB industry.
I'm really glad you're making it work, but in the same breath, I feel that you shouldn't need to. Instead of our industry pushing for increasingly margin gains and gadgets, I'd be completely happy as a consumer to see frames and suspension to accommodate more bodies... of course, that's not how things work though.
Glad you made this video and that you exist within the community man! Need more folks like you.
It is strange to me that no one is making and marketing big and tall bikes (of all types), considering how fat so many people in the US are.
That's the problem with your country. Last place medals
I'm similar to you, 6ft 3" 304lbs butt nakey. I run 120 psi in my 160mm forks with 2 tokens, no tokens in rear 160mm shock but running 280psi and sit at almost 30% sag. 200m rotors on sram guide r kevlar pads. Size L frame could have done with an XL frame really. 2016 enduro comp
Trying to find riding clothes in 40" waist/3xl or kneepads that fit is a nightmare
Galfer makes a 246mm rotor that is 2.3mm thick. Codes should have clearance for a 2.3 with the pistons fully retracted. TRP DH-R Evo are designed for 2.3mm thick rotor.
DOT 5.1 is DOT 5.1. Car fluid can be used and is recommended, since DOT 5.1 is the spec of the fluid.
You might be able to get away with coil rear by running a heavy coil(Fox has 700, DNM has 750) for a longer stroke shock and then 3d print something to bind some of the coils(the way Sprindex works). This gives a stiffer spring rate without messing with a ton of preload.
Getting your suspension valved for your weight will be a lot better than just cranking the knobs closed.
I'm not sure if you're supported by Specialized, but other brand DH casing is much more supportive and protective than the Grid Gravity casing. If you're happy with the support you get then no need to change though!
I'm amazed that the X2 is working for you, we service so many of those compared to most other rear shocks.
I’m a big guy too. I’ve struggled with suspension setup! But I found a small company in California called fluid focus that tuned my x2 . Now believe it or not I can run 300 / 305 psi in my shock and the knobs actually do what there supposed to do!!! Mainly slow down the rebound! Hope this helps someone out…
Ps later I had them tune my fork and it was a game changer..
Gotta say the rig looks sweet man.
A guy i ride with is in ur weight range and is bad for just obliterating rear shocks so he ended up getting a custom built coil shock.
Diety tmacs are a magic set of flat pedals and bigger than average, the grip on them is nuts.
I ran TMACs for a couple of years and actually broke a spindle on one just pedaling up out of a wash, was fixed under warranty with zero issues. My shins aren't fans of TMACS haha. I just switched to the PNW Loam pedal and the platform is just as big as the TMAC but I find the pins grip better and I get less pedal strikes. However the PNW pedal is lighter than the TMAC and I might wonder if they would hold up to a 300+lb rider. I'm 250lbs and have no concerns.
@mrvwbug44 had a pretty big rock strike with the tmacs that bent the crank arm but the pedal barley got s scratch lol
@@jonnysnakes5417 Yeah, mine look like they went through a war zone, the spindle was definitely a weird failure. Though I'm finding with the PNWs that the people who claim "pins work better than grub screws" on flats may actually be onto something. The feel of the PNWs is better than the TMACs.
Me: geeee wonder what happened to his arm
*2 videos down. Riding a MTB with a third person view using a GoPro and VR goggles..*
Me: ... Ohhh
Tbh you can loose weight here for you would find an air coil to fit your weight I have a friend 6'5 220lbs
Idk why I’m watching this I’m 5’6” and 130 lbs 😂 crazy how big some dudes get
I use johnson's baby mineral oil as a brake fluid for several years lol) so it's not that rare to use something other than normal bike brake fluids )
SRAM (and others for bikes) brake fluid _is_ car brake fluid... DOT4/DOT5.1 is the same spec no matter who makes it. I would feel perfectly fine putting "bike brake fluid" in my car, and have done the reverse with zero problems.
Man thank you fuck I have so much more confidence now after watching your channel! Soo many questions answered for the bigger guy! Thank you
Thanks so much for the tips. I am a fluffy 320lbs so this is super valuable to know!
DOT is DOT the car dot 5.1 is the same glycol based fluid as the kind used for MTB brakes
Cascade components makes an aftermarket link that adds a lot of progressivity to the rear shock. I’m “only” about 250 pounds but I was constantly blowing through the travel as well. I fortunately can run a coil although it’s the stiffest spring I could find at 650 pounds but it pairs perfectly with the cascade link
This guy would need like a 1300lb spring with the cascade link haha
The Specialized Enduro is already pretty progressive out back, and you have to bump up your spring rate a bit when you go with a cascade link, on my Ripmo I had to add 20psi to the air shock, but it was totally worth it as I was able to pull two spacers out of the air shock (from 5 to 3 on the DVO Topaz). TL;DR it's better to get your suspension progression from the linkage vs the shock
@@ChewyWookiee Probably around a 900-1000lb. At 250lbs I would run a 700 linear or 675 progressive rate with a cascade linked coil bike.
6’5 “ 350 !! I bought an ext e storia ! Total game changer bud . I highly recommend it .
Could you detail ur setup?
You should try running a marzocchi z1 coil fork
6'6" 320 here. Have you ever gone through rear hub internals(pawls, teeth, bearings)? That was what I seemed to destroy, until I purchased an I9 hub. Those Deity Highrise bars are the shit though, I run the 80 mm rise. I just use enduro tires with Cushcore at about 25 and 30 PSI and my problems were solved, but I am most likely 25 years older than you, so I don't hit the big stuff anymore. Thanks for the video.
love you channel sir.... and just for shits and giggles:
AL-YOU-MIN-E-UM
much love from one (UK) big boy to another x
Kinda Cool, Americans use the same expression. Shits and giggles…. Good riding from Appalachian mountains USA We’re all hillbillies 🤙🏼
@@A_shreddingDad and it's all fun and games..., Until someone giggles and shits.
@@asw16177 oh damn one even better!!! Im gettin a feeling shits about to hit the fan round here
I am also about 310-320 lbs. I contacted avalanche suspension they custom built/ tuned a marzochi bomber coil shock for me with an 800lb spring on it. I can say it works so much better than my air shock. I would recommend avalanche hands down
How much did it run you?
Those bars ain’t extreme 🤘🏻I run the same at 6’1” 200lbs. Now the rest of the setup…😮55psi whatever works. Love your videos man🤙🏻
I do like those bars, brushed alloy looks awesome and the 5 cm rise should be the norm going forward imo. Great vid.
Running a shock that high psi would make me nervous if I'm not mistaken max psi recommended by fox for the X2 is like 260 or something.
I just wanted to suggest u try a Rockshox super deluxe ultimate, I have one on my turbo levo and imho it's a much better shock and the max psi on it is 360 so I think would work much better for you.
Have fun and be safe!!
That’s crazy! I didn’t realize you were 6’5. Thanks for showing us your bike set up. Get well soon 👊🏽
Well I, like a lot of the other commenters, am also a larger rider at 280lbs and average height. I’m about to make a big purchase by getting a 2023 Norco Range and was very concerned that I would end of breaking it. I have broken several rear hubs in the past, so it’s nice to see that there are a number of portly fellows like myself that are able to make it work. Thanks for doing what you do!
As a 6'5” tall 330ish pound bike park and dh rider I would like to chime in. I have exclusively run a coil shock on my dh bikes for years. It requires a 650- 700 lb spring from fox and an internal valving change from avalanche downhill racing out of Connecticut. My current supreme dh runs a marzocchi (fox) coil with a valve job and it rides amazing even though the frame is designed with a pretty linear ramp up. My fox 40 has the avalanche racing hybrid coil set up and requires roughly half the air pressure a person our size would need to run and you gain the small bump sensitivity back that an air fork with max pressure lacks. I've run their stuff for years. Please get in contact with Craig over there this winter and I promise you it will change your life.
Would love a tutorial video for how you rawed your aluminum parts!
Not to said mean or uneducated but wouldn’t trying to drop some weight help you have your bike work better for you. This is coming from a moderately overweight guy myself
Bro... You're way bigger than I would have guessed from your videos and your bike sizing. Respect. Having that extra enertia on some of the features you hit brings a difficulty level few people will ever understand. You a bad ass. 🤙
Good stuff guys! I will say, at my biggest I was 301 and I was running 30 psi with Cushcore. You really should start letting some air out and see how much better it feels. I can’t see how you would need more the 40. I ran pressures like you back when I used tubes and it was a game changer once I started running the pressure lower.
I know guys at 300lbs running sub 25 psi. Just need to have a good rims.
@@christiandruan sounds sketchy. I tested 25 PSI front and rear and I started breaking spokes left and right in the rear. I mostly ride chunk rocks with hard pack dirt (most year round) so I had to bump up to 30 PSI in the rear.
I do not have Cushcore
His rims won't survive it. Roval Traverses are a trail rim. If he had DT Swiss FR541s or FR560s or EX511s maybe. At 250lbs I killed 2 Ibis S35s in a year at the bike park and that is a burlier rim than the Rovals, I now run FR560s and am pretty much DH or Freeride rims for life at this point.
What shock pump do you use? I have really hard time going to 300psi
Specialized would probably love if you did a top 5 every once in awhile where you had your viewers send photos of their Specialized bikes and you pick your favorite top 5 like every other month or so and make a video about those bikes. It would be great for all of the people really proud of their bikes and it's just another video idea with viewer interaction. You could also do it with any brand but idk what you are allowed to do and not do.
Yes to this !
But add in Commencal 😅
Great video. I'm 6' 5" 265 lbs and know some of the issues that you face. Interested to hear what rear hub you are running on those wheels, as that is probably where I have most of my problems with longevity.
I run 800mm bars with 75mm rise. Find that this puts me in a good position for riding, and makes the the stack height slightly more proportional when compared to smaller frame bikes relative to increase in rider height.
Main Issue I find with riding as a bigger heavier guy is wheels seem to flex like mad if I push it, actualy been considering running 24" with some 2.7" tyres for the extra strength. Anyone else had issue with wheels flexing like crazy?
Try using a smaller wheel like you’re doing, with 36 spokes instead of 28 or 32.
You’re aiming 24” wheels to replace a 26” set?
@@krinkedsurface yeah aiming to replace my 26" wheels with a set of 24", been looking at the 48h Halo wheels
I don't jump I don't park I don't downhill I XC and do beginner level forest trails downhill also I'm 220 all I can add is that I tried to run lower pressures on my fox factory 34 and float to make it more plush doesn't really work bike doesn't use more travel outside of jumps you mostly get more sag and pedal pumping you can't make it use full travel on light use that's not how they work so went back to recommended pressures, I also upgraded my brakes but nothing crazy replaced my oem with cooling fins Shimano pads and XT discs with the cooling flap thing, they worked all right for a 21km 13miles downhill from a mountain
If that's an AC joint separation and you're still slinging it after 2 weeks you're hurting yourself quite a bit. I separated mine in October and my PT said DO NOT sling it. You want that puppy getting moved around. He said med practice has changed. Jammed and shit that used to get splinted no longer does. You NEED to move it or you're going to heal stuff and low mobility. Like bruh I get it the weight of your shoulder doesn't feel good on a fucked AC joint but you need that or else your literally gunna be fucked in that arm. It will never be the same if you don't push past pain to build it back up. Get rid of that sling homie
On the contrary to you, i got myself a nice Rockshox coil and bought the stiffest spring for it thinking that i'll solve all my problems. And as soon as i did it i started dropping weight like crazy and now im 40lbs lighter stuck riding 20% sag on a 170 bike because none of the shops had coils made for this shock. I finally bought some coils and now i have like 5 of them with all different stiffness laying around just in case. The bike did feel racey tho, but I'm starting to question my desire to go with a coil shock lol.
as a 260lb rider, I've always been very concerned about breaking modern bikes and have intentionally limited myself to CrMo machines... You've given me the confidence to venture into the world of the modern bike, thank you!
Fox 38 or Rockshox ZEB Ultimate for 140kg Person?
Which one can be better adjusted to the high weight? And which damper is best suited? For now I would choose a Fox 38 Factory and Fox Float X2 Factory in a Giant Reign E+ 0 2022.
I have the same bike and I was at 40% sag on the X2 also. I am able to get 20-25% sag with the rockshox super deluxe. I weigh in around 300lbs. I will say, unless you ride a lot of climby tech the 40% sag isn't a deal breaker.
What’d you run your psi on the RS SD shock to achieve that sag?
@Positive Media Productions 325 psi and 3 volune spacers has been the sweet spot for me
If you thin thats fun…Pick up a rockhopper from the 80s - rigid, 1” steerer, upgrade to vees the cantis arent up to modern enduro courses. My favorite bicycle, 89 stumpy - never felt a bike so nice…
Have you looked into DVO for suspension? They do a lot of custom work. I had a coil shock from them when I was 250lbs that did good and it was basically off the shelf part.
This ^^ the Onyx might be one of the best big guy forks out there, no spacers to fuck with, at 250lbs I'm not even running close to max pressure in the air spring and at 30% sag I generally have to fuck up to hard clap the fork, normal big hits use around 95% of the travel, maybe a soft bottom out on a really big hit.
Have you considered getting a custom tune for your suspension?
28 spokes only, and no wheel failures? I'm impressed... what kind are they? Sapim, DT, Dartmoor, butted, 13 gauge, straight...?
Have you ever tried more P than the 390psi your running in rear shock and have you ever had a blowout on the shock seals while pumping it up or while riding? Im curious to know how much room is engineered into these from their stated spec max P vs the actual failure threshold P! Thanks for the interesting info!
Started riding at 6'5" 300lbs down to 265. So basically the bike setup is changing itself lol. I have a hardtail so I don't have to worry about any rear suspension yet but I've just been focusing on getting better at the basics. I'm renting a bike at stratton in Oct so we will see how that goes.
Try doubling up on the front discs. Kinda how motorcycles do it. Also, consider a + sized rear tire. A 26x3.0 has the same diameter as a normal 27.5, in case you wanted to run a mullet setup. Pretty sure it's a similar story with 27.5 plus-tires being the same OD as 29er normal tires. Also, general rule of thumb, run rim widths (the ID) about half as big up to +5mm wider than half as wide as your tires. IE a 35-40mm ID rim on a 3" wide tire, or a 30-35mm id rim on a normal 2.35-2.4 inch tire.
Would appreciate some advice here. I was about to push the button on buying a new Canyon Torque CF however the weight limit is 100KG! If I use a non-Canyon dropper its 120KG. I'm 125KG before I put clothes on so by the time I'm ready to ride, I'm pushing 130KG.
Has anyone here had any experience with Canyon MTBs and being a heavy rider? One owner I've met is 147KG and isn't concerned by that weight limit.
Would be very grateful for any insight.
I'm 6'2 265 lbs. I'm about to upgrade to a full suspension from my Giant Talon 1. I'm probably gonna go with a YT izzo for my first full suspension.
Hey man, 315lbs rider here
I’ve been watching your videos for a while and am curious if you could share tips (perhaps in a video) to help us heavy dudes with braking?
I am on both light weight and full fat e-bikes, and run strong TRP dhr brakes, 220mm rotors front and rear, and metallic pads, but on steep downs, I’m still cooking my brakes. I know I could / should modulate them more and that i tend to drag them, but I have to in order to make the next turn or avoid that huge rut up ahead etc.
On my latest bike, I glaze every pad I try.
It’s starting to become frustrating and is truthfully holding me back a bit with progressing. I’m not yet comfortable with 30+ mph lol.
Also, I feel I have to go slower a bit partially due to my suspension not being as plush as I think it ought to be which then makes my lizard brain grab more brake
Any tips and tricks for us hefty dudes?
Maybe the Enduro only goes to an S5? On the regular stumpjumper or stump Evo would you typically ride an S5 or an s6? I'm about 6'3 and a half with a tall inseam and the stock S5 seatpost would not go high enough for me without going past the max extension, I do realize that can be swapped.
Even with that 50 mm rise bar up front, for your height it looks like that's still pretty slammed down.. ? I struggle a lot to get my stack high enough.
But, but.....DoT is and was always a car brakes fluid....
Its regulated by the goverment/state (DoT=department of transportation), so you will get always the same quality.
So DoT 4/5.1, beside the label on the package is always the same and usable for car AND SRAM brakes.
SRAM did this on purpose.
Im curious how you are able to overpressure the shock? I'm 260, 290 with all my work crap on...and my fox is 300 psi max. I'd like to go higher.
Are you just going past max and saying eff it or do you have a custom seals?
I just found you and subbed...big boys on bikes! We always scare the 140 pounders...😂😂
Great video…. 😎👊🏼 Common @SpecializedMTB build this guy a custom bike. Would be badass to see you huckin a bike custom fit to you. Stay Classy 👊🏼🙏🏼😎
Ive been looking for this info for so mamy years! I too am a fellow giant/ish.. im 6ft 2 and aroumd 340lbs. How do you get so much psi in to the rear shock? I run 325psi which is the "maximum" pressure. But once i pump about 315/320psi in the shock it physically wont let me pump anymore in .. Any ideas on how to bypass the max psi and get a bit more in there? Also will adding spacers help me to stiffen it up a bit more?
Cheers! :)
6'3" 315 running a 2021 Altitude and EXT got me sorted with an E-Storia and an 800lb spring and custom valving, not cheap but got me to 30% sag. Couldn't get below 40% previously with the shitty DXP2.
I'm 6'0 230lbs even at max air pressure on my rear shock (280) I also could not get less than 40% sag. I was thinking about getting a coil shock next time but maybe I'll also try going above max spec pressure : ). Unless I can lose some weight before then.
6'8 290 fully geared. I was riding a rockhopper for a year and a half and was bending the hell out of my saddle rails on the stock saddle it came with. I upgraded the saddle to an ergon saddle with Chro-mo rails and it is so solid. I just got a stump jumper and am looking at what all I need to do to make it support me better. The bike shop knows me well and they helped me out a ton getting the suspension fully pumped up and everything, but still feels a little soft. Maybe cause I am used to a hard tail idk.
As a newer MTBer at about 230 lbs. (heavy for my height tbh) anyway I've found that the stock shock and fork on my first bike just struggle. I've ended up swapping out the fork and rear shock within a couple months just to not bottom out constantly. Even then, I'm near the limits on pressure to get the right tune. My point being, at what isn't that ridiculous of a weight I'm not over the specs, but I'm hitting them. Kind of interesting. Does everyone over ~240-250 just have to outright ignore the specs?
My man, that sling!? Seperation or break? 😢
I'm 6'1" and 335 on a good day... And on my 2016 Knolly I'm running a bomber cr coil that's been modded and tuned by Avalanche. My fox 38 also has an Avy cartridge in it, it's the hybrid cool/air set up. I blew up a float X2, switched to a dhx2 and hated it. Now, my bikes suspension has never performed better. Highly recommend Avalanche for big boy suspension tuning. I also long shocked my delirium and went from 170mm rear to 185mm rear
You're also on a Knolly frame and they're probably the best of the best for big riders because they are about as progressive as progressive gets
I was on 220 and bought me a nice propain tyee. Then I gained some weight and stopped riding because I feared that I would brake my bike.
Thanks for proofing me and the tech specs wrong. Let's shredd!
Dude, get your size 17 feet some XL Catalyst One Pedals by Pedaling Innovations. They won't even work for people under a size 13. They're like 160mm!
fellow big man here 6'5'' 300lbs What I've noticed is that bike manufactures are " SIZE-IST" they don't make bikes or components that can hold up to us big guys that ride hard! We need a big and tall bike company.
Also what freewheel hub are you running? I run the onxy classic and have had great luck with them so far. I've killed so many rear hubs so many times I carry a complete rear wheel setup with me at all times.
At 6'6" and 230 pounds my issue isn't suspension or brakes but more the geometry. I have an XL Marin and I still make it look small. Any bigger and getting round corners would be difficult.
You can put ANY marketing branded DOT 4 or 5.1 into your brakes. Doesn't matter.
If you need better brakes try Shimano Saints with metallic pads and ice-tech finned rotors.
I’m heavier then you. I run a EXT Storia on my Banshee Titan. BUT, I’m not sponsored so I bought a bike that function for me, that has the support and the leverage ratio in the suspension platform. I run a 650lb coil and I haven’t bottomed out yet. So for any of you big guys out there’s don’t buy a bike because some UA-camr has it. Do your homework and find a bike that you don’t have to run your suspension out of limit. Also, the FOX X2 is not a big boi shock. However this guy is sponsored and are limit to use there bike, and I can tell you they do not build bikes meant to be ridden by guys big as us.
Damn dude im 6'6" 330lbs and i wear a size 14. Your and inch or 2 shorter with size 17. Man i thought my feet were ski's 😂. Nice set up though
Def a plus sized gravity rider as well. Love the content for us gravitationally exceptional riders.
Question, what shock pump do you use for high volume?
Hey guys I need help I am 5‘9 and about 310-320 and I want mtb and I am over the limit what can happen if I ride a bike and I am over the limit with over 50😅
I'm around 230lbs and ride with 45-50 psi both front and rear, I find anything lower feels awful, god forbid my gravel bike is 130psi front and rear.
Hello. I have 2 questions:
1- Are those Roval rim’s 30mm wide internally?
2- Do you have issues with creaking steerer headset?
get you some real brakes, Magura's MT7's and run 2-piece rotors. Are you running a dot5 (higher temp fluid)
Sucks there is not a suspension setup that will work for you too.
I´d be a bit concerned about the tire pressure and even more so the shock pressure you are running. I had a tire blow off the rim at around 50 psi when I trying to get a stubborn bead to seat. Bead destroyed and my ears where ringing for several days afterwards. Not something you want to happen while doing a high speed downhill run or landing a jump. And if the shock blows up on you at almost 400 psi. That´s going to be like a grenade going off...be safe out there and maybe do look into a coil a bit more or get a frame with lower leverage ratio.