Mt Jefferson summit: The South Ridge (4K)
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- Опубліковано 18 вер 2024
- On July 4th, Christian and I summited Mt Jefferson. We took a non traditional approach to the route which included a lake party at Shale Lake, and a sunset climb up Goat Peak. We then set out early and climbed the South Ridge. After traversing most of the way around the summit block we ended up sending the North Ridge (5.3) In my opinion, Mt Jefferson is the hardest mountain in Oregon. This was a long but epic climb! We ended up clocking 31 miles and over 8000 ft of vert.
The nature there is so beautiful. Thanks for making such awesome video.
Thanks!
Great video, guys! Gods the Jefferson Wilderness really is paradise. This is my next mountain goal in Oregon.
Its a good one! good luck!
Great video you guys. When I climbed Jeff, the traverse was 99% snow-free. Someday I'll go back and do it on snow. Goat Peak is one of my FAV 2ndary peaks. Nice work.
yea, it was a blast!
I made it to the saddle about 15 years ago and got shaky leg scared so we turned around. It still haunts me a little that we didn't summit, but seeing your video makes me feel like it was the right choice. what a pile of choss! but still alluring!
Yea, that final 300 vertical feet is no joke! first time I went up I also stopped at the red saddle as I wasn't prepared for the technical bits, but I had to return. took a few years to gain the skills and experience needed. Thanks for Watching!
Probably the best choice. Not sure I even have aspirations to climb Jefferson, but I did enjoy the video.
WOW what view! 👣
Wow! Great video!! Deserves more views.
You two sure know how to peg the fun meter. What a great partner you have!!!
Thanks! She is pretty incredible on every level!
hell ya! damn, south ridge is no joke! well documented & ya'll look like a lot of fun... fantastic video.. looks like i'm gonna have to work up to this! :-p
yea, it was a beast, in my opinion the hardest mountain in Oregon!
What an intense last bit. Would you consider a snow ascent?
Yes! I plan on it someday. I think it would be in some ways safer, but others, more challenging. Getting good snow and ice conditions would be very important, and likely difficult to predict.
It's too bad hiking in Oregon gotten more difficult due to the red tape with the central cascade Permit system
It really is! It takes a lot of the spontaneous trips out of the question, but even planning climbs in certain weather windows, etc. It's a frustrating process.
Epic! Do you prefer this time of year to do it? Seems like most do it in spring.
There are pros and cons to each, I would like to try in the spring, but we were only the 2nd ppl to sign the summit log this year so I don't think many made it up this spring.
This is all a big nope fest for me, but fun to watch.
Haha yea, that mountain is no joke!
that traverse!
Awesome video! Congrats on a stellar climb. I wanna wwama!
Good job! I made it to the saddle last June with my brother but we did not know how to get to the summit from there. Didn't even consider doing the traverse. Would you say the repel is a convenience or is the terrain on the north Ridge technical enough where a ropes are required for an average climber?
It's hard to say what is average, as everyone has different levels of experience and comfortability with risk. I know a lot of people opt to protect the traverse, at least while on the snow/ice, it's really hard to protect much past that on the way up as the mountain is so rotten. There were several rap/belay stations on the north ridge though. I think choosing to repel is pretty standard, but I know people do free solo it all. Again, it really just depends on your personal comfort level with exposure and risk. It is a dangerous mountain.
Love your vids! In your opinion what would you consider to be more difficult
Mount Jefferson or North Sister?
That's a good question, and I've been thinking about that a lot! They are both very difficult, in some ways similar (lots of sketchy loose rock) but other ways different. Jefferson is a longer climb with more elevation gain, it requires a steep ice / snow traverse pretty much year round, which means extra gear, and that traverse is no joke. Both mountains have difficult route finding, and supposedly have a 4th class option to the top, but on both, I ended up on 5th class terrain. On paper I'd say that Jefferson is harder, my personal experiences with the mountains, N Sister was harder for me, primarily because of getting off route and also doing it as a single day push, coupled with the conditions we did it in. It all added up to a less enjoyable climb then Jeff.
Thank you for your response! Going for Mount Jefferson this weekend. One last question if you don’t mind. The steep traverse, would you say it’s along the lines of Mount Hoods Old Chute? Or is it a bit steeper?
@@TVinmyEye its steeper, and more exposed. its about 60 degrees on average where old chute is about 40-45 degrees. you definitely want 2 axes / tools and plan for some painful front pointing. Its an epic mountain! good luck
@@MountainMontage Thank you! I just summited yesterday afternoon. Grueling but amazing ascent up!
@@TVinmyEye Congrats!!