Aluminum expands ~50% more than iron/steel when heated, it also contracts more as it cools down. Now, if you try to cast an aluminum part around a steel rod to have a hole in it... good luck with removing the rod )
Hi, before casting your aluminum, (or other), plan a mechanical system to vibrate the mold as you sink, as for vibrated concrete, the vibrations will strongly tamp your metal and prevent the formation of internal bubbles and other crevices. Good luck
Damn I never thought of combining the two processes, but if your metal is hot enough and you pour carefully I don't think that it is required. Make for a good experiment.
Not sure if it was done but preheating the mold might be a good idea aswell not only to stop it from causing uneven cooling but to remove possible moisture buildup causing an explosion and spraying molten aluminum out the top of the tube
For a tube that long you really need to preheat the mold. You can see where the first bit of the pour began to cool and solidify as it ran down to the bottom of the tube, and you can see that the bottom of the pour cooled much too quickly.
hiya BB, was noticing that you were looking at the inner weld seam on the square tube you used to cast the aluminum ingot. there is a way to remove that seam so you wont have that grove in your ingots... go look at fireball tool ... the guy there has a video on how to make a tool to remove that inner seam. its a handy dandy tool for sure =)
Very cool. After watching many of these diy casting videos makes me wonder about internal casting anomalies creating weak points in the structure. I still hope to try this some day.
@@anotherguy9402 Sure you can, but then you’re wasting about 22% of your material to turn square stock down to a round of the same size. Even if the aluminum is free, the fuel to melt it isn’t, so a 22% material waste is a 22% waste of fuel. Not to mention the wasted time on the lathe.
@@sharmageddon2171 a 1x1 square obviously has an area of 1. A circle of a diameter of 1 is pi • r^2 which in this case works out to 0.78.... That makes figuring out the percentage easy as you’ve set 1 as 100 percent, and anything below the decimal automatically becomes the percentage. So a round bar of the same diameter has a surface area on the end of 78% of the square, or 22% less. As the length is irrelevant to this you don’t have to worry about the third dimension for these calculations at all.
Well that was a pleasant surprise. I did not expect the bar to release as easily as it appears it did. I would love to see you cast a shorter bar with the mold preheated to about 100-150 C. That way if it sticks it should be easier to melt out a short bar. Now I am really bummed that I don’t have a legitimate shop with some machine tools. Guess I will have to make do with my garage, a claw hammer and a hand drill...😕 And thank you for the tutorial on something that I had wondered about, your proof of concept was enlightening.
Pro tip: Make sure to stock a good amount of square tubing all from the same batch if you’re gonna do something like this for this purpose. Sometimes the welds are in different places and thus new stock of the same dimension may not fit, without further modification.
I was wondering if you could do that with extruded steel.....now I know. Thank you for sharing your experiment it saved me time and materials. I will give this a try once my furnace is up and running. Thanks again....I thoroughly enjoy your channel you make some really cool things
I wonder if it would be easier to get out of the tubing if you had a bolt sticking through the bottom plate that you ground off. That way you could probably pull the aluminum out when you knock the bottom plate off, and then unscrew it??
i just tried this with 1 1/2 inch dia. 3/16 wall tubing for some bar stock. It will not come out. have myself a solid bar now, looks like going to have to cut the pipe off the outside. tried a hand torch to heat it up, while loaded on a 20 ton shop press and no luck, I think i bent my shop press though... Did you coat your tube with anything, was it oil hardened first?? wax??
Very cool idea. I just made some more arms for my homemade 2x72 and I also use tubing and had to add some weld around the arm to make it secure. This would have been a decent idea... though my forge isn't setup for casting this much aluminum. Good tip for the future. PS - I was surprised as well it came out so easily. Did you add anything on the inside first?
Might have come out easier and had less imperfections if you had smoked the inside of the mold with "lampblack" from a candle or acetylene flame before casting.
Hello, do you ever try including a red heated rebar just before casting aluminum? a 1/2' rebar centered in the tubing will give an extra strenght to the aluminum bar with only a little extra weight, and if you give a decent pre-heating to this rebar, (red hot) it will help a smoother casting by giving extra heat to melted aluminum, Try it ;-) --- Thanks for this vid ! Axelle.
Nice work. That shot of you cutting the bar on your band saw made me nervous. Thumbs were too close to the blade path for me. Maybe use a hardwood piece as support behind the piece being cut. To allow for hands further away from the blade path.
These long bars seem to come out pretty well, only a bit "lost" to shrink defect at the top. Have you tried making short, wide shapes (e.g. a 25mm thick 150mm dia disk) open faced into a steel mould? Just wondering how much would be usable.
I think if you also heat the pipe a little before you bump it out it may compress the bilot enough so that when it cools you have an easier time wacking it out
Always preheat your form! this is a metal casting rule. If you don't not only steam bubbles can form in your casting and cause imprefection it can also splash and explode molten metal around. You never know if the mold is moist or has small ammounts of water on it even if it sits in a dry environment.
Now that came out of the form easiliy. Wasn't expecting that.
Yeah, I was wondering that myself.
Aluminum expands ~50% more than iron/steel when heated, it also contracts more as it cools down.
Now, if you try to cast an aluminum part around a steel rod to have a hole in it... good luck with removing the rod )
M. Mitchell Marmel shrinkage
you can cast it around a sand core, there are recipes for that purpose
it shrinks as it cools. falls right out.
As a Dutch person, you had me at "free"
As an disabled person and on welfare, he had me too at "free". ;)
I’m Dutch and disabled. Proof that water seeks its own level.
He had me to I’m fricken poor
I'm not poor but this is definitely something I want to try out. Aluminium stock is crazy expensive here, but I can get tubes and profiles for free
I'm just a cheap MF. You had me at free too.
Hi, before casting your aluminum, (or other), plan a mechanical system to vibrate the mold as you sink, as for vibrated concrete, the vibrations will strongly tamp your metal and prevent the formation of internal bubbles and other crevices. Good luck
Exlent idea
Damn I never thought of combining the two processes, but if your metal is hot enough and you pour carefully I don't think that it is required. Make for a good experiment.
Reciprocating saw without a blade, clamp the pipe to a bench and use the saw to rattle the bench
great idea, but i defenetly dont want a vibrating mold, when im pouring hot metal
Not sure if it was done but preheating the mold might be a good idea aswell not only to stop it from causing uneven cooling but to remove possible moisture buildup causing an explosion and spraying molten aluminum out the top of the tube
Looks GREAT bud - NICELY _DONE_ !
All the BEST -
Chuck .
I have been working a lot on the bench grinder this week. Video about that coming soon... Next week!
May I have your old belt grinder?
Black Beard Projects, Спасибо тебе!
Can't wait to see the build! Keep up the great content 👍
Looking forward to it!
Black Beard Projects how many KG of aluminium was that you poured In the steel tube? Love ya work 👌
For a tube that long you really need to preheat the mold. You can see where the first bit of the pour began to cool and solidify as it ran down to the bottom of the tube, and you can see that the bottom of the pour cooled much too quickly.
Happy I saw this video. I am going to be making round stock for coins. Been considering different ideas. I am going to try some black pipe.
hiya BB, was noticing that you were looking at the inner weld seam on the square tube you used to cast the aluminum ingot. there is a way to remove that seam so you wont have that grove in your ingots... go look at fireball tool ... the guy there has a video on how to make a tool to remove that inner seam. its a handy dandy tool for sure =)
I think that was a good idea that is what I call thinking outside the box
This is a very clever way to make a sliding tool arm! Brilliant!
Spectacular welds, I love your humor in showing it like that :D
Excellent 👍👍👍. Thanks for sharing. Who needs to buy aluminum for projects? Melt scrap aluminum. COOL
That is indeed a good idea for stock bar for a lathe
Very cool.
After watching many of these diy casting videos makes me wonder about internal casting anomalies creating weak points in the structure.
I still hope to try this some day.
So simple idéal ! I never imagine it would be so easy to get the bar out of the tube...Thanks for tutorial
I would like to recommend that you clean the inside of the mold and preheat it in order to get a more sound casting.
would be even more useful when cast in a round tube as a lathe stock. Nice idea!
I thought exactly the same thing.. however for what he needs to do with it is actually perfect..
I didn't know that you can't put a square bar in a lathe.....
@@anotherguy9402 Sure you can, but then you’re wasting about 22% of your material to turn square stock down to a round of the same size.
Even if the aluminum is free, the fuel to melt it isn’t, so a 22% material waste is a 22% waste of fuel. Not to mention the wasted time on the lathe.
@@Nevir202 how did u come up with the 22% figure? Math used to be my forte about a decade ago but I've lost touch and would love to know
@@sharmageddon2171 a 1x1 square obviously has an area of 1.
A circle of a diameter of 1 is pi • r^2 which in this case works out to 0.78....
That makes figuring out the percentage easy as you’ve set 1 as 100 percent, and anything below the decimal automatically becomes the percentage.
So a round bar of the same diameter has a surface area on the end of 78% of the square, or 22% less.
As the length is irrelevant to this you don’t have to worry about the third dimension for these calculations at all.
Pro tip: heat the metal tube 1st before pouring. You can tell the difference by looking at the results
After seeing how expensive that kind of aluminum is for the thickness I need I’m definitely wanting to do this
Is it possible to cast t and v slotted Profile using ready made as reference?
Hello from France to you Italian friend and can't wait to see more of your project in the future ^_^
Why are you racist?
Very cool idea!
Love your videos, you’ve gotten me into restoring tools I find at flea markets😂 Keep it up!👍
James W hope you follow Scout Crafter on you tube.
"That's what she said"...👍
Well that was a pleasant surprise. I did not expect the bar to release as easily as it appears it did. I would love to see you cast a shorter bar with the mold preheated to about 100-150 C. That way if it sticks it should be easier to melt out a short bar. Now I am really bummed that I don’t have a legitimate shop with some machine tools. Guess I will have to make do with my garage, a claw hammer and a hand drill...😕 And thank you for the tutorial on something that I had wondered about, your proof of concept was enlightening.
What a great idea! I did not think you would have been able to drive the aluminum mold from the square tubing
Can’t wait for the new belt grinder!!!
High
That's awesome. It seems like a good idea to make a inner weld bead removing tool for the 2 inch square tubing.
Or just buy seamless tubing lol
Pro tip:
Make sure to stock a good amount of square tubing all from the same batch if you’re gonna do something like this for this purpose.
Sometimes the welds are in different places and thus new stock of the same dimension may not fit, without further modification.
Awesome idea, thanks for sharing 👍👍👍
Great idea thanks for sharing I am going to be busy for a while now 😃
New tooling arm for the grinder- great idea.
Great proof of concept test!!!
First thing I thought of, perfect toolbar for a belt grinder 😁
Thanks bro,so innovative
I was wondering if you could do that with extruded steel.....now I know. Thank you for sharing your experiment it saved me time and materials. I will give this a try once my furnace is up and running. Thanks again....I thoroughly enjoy your channel you make some really cool things
Brilliant idea. Thank you for your video :)
So much experience and you can see good
What degassing material was used?
Italiano? OMG! Bellissimo joby, my friend :D
I wonder if it would be easier to get out of the tubing if you had a bolt sticking through the bottom plate that you ground off.
That way you could probably pull the aluminum out when you knock the bottom plate off, and then unscrew it??
What a cool idea.. bro... great job.
Whoa! Solid as a bell.
Thanks for a great video!
Great video and idea, thank you!
Bella la voce inglese italianizzata 😂👍❤
Thank you for sharing, good work for what you have available, wishing you success for the rest of the project at hand, have a nice day.
Very nicely done
thats one very fine idea!!
Great idea....looking forward to your grinder build.
Looks like the bars came out great! Cool stuff man, can't wait to see the new grinder project!
i just tried this with 1 1/2 inch dia. 3/16 wall tubing for some bar stock. It will not come out. have myself a solid bar now, looks like going to have to cut the pipe off the outside. tried a hand torch to heat it up, while loaded on a 20 ton shop press and no luck, I think i bent my shop press though... Did you coat your tube with anything, was it oil hardened first?? wax??
Very cool idea. I just made some more arms for my homemade 2x72 and I also use tubing and had to add some weld around the arm to make it secure. This would have been a decent idea... though my forge isn't setup for casting this much aluminum. Good tip for the future. PS - I was surprised as well it came out so easily. Did you add anything on the inside first?
Cant wait to see your future project with alluminium !
Hola buen trabajo, quiero saber que le echas después de sacar la escoria?
nice clip. What did you put in the liquid aluminium to clean out?
Nice idea 💡 👌
Might have come out easier and had less imperfections if you had smoked the inside of the mold with "lampblack" from a candle or acetylene flame before casting.
Great idea
Hello, do you ever try including a red heated rebar just before casting aluminum? a 1/2' rebar centered in the tubing will give an extra strenght to the aluminum bar with only a little extra weight, and if you give a decent pre-heating to this rebar, (red hot) it will help a smoother casting by giving extra heat to melted aluminum, Try it ;-) --- Thanks for this vid ! Axelle.
What a great idea!
Cool video and walkthrough.
Can you tell me about the welding device used to secure the foot to the steel tube/mold, please?
Thank you
Hey man, actually better than i expected. Good stuff!
Beautifull idea !
first video ive seen of yours. this is an awesome iea, thanks for this! makes me excited to make some cool things.
Is there a way to make it less porous at the end?
How strong is the bar? How much compression or tension it can withstand?
Excellent.
Nice work. That shot of you cutting the bar on your band saw made me nervous. Thumbs were too close to the blade path for me. Maybe use a hardwood piece as support behind the piece being cut. To allow for hands further away from the blade path.
ingenious,
Didn't heat the profile and then pour aluminum to minimize cracks?
This video was Oddly Satisfying to watch 👍 thank you for another great and informative video 😁
Just awesome man!
Thank you for sharing!
I wonder if you could add Molten titanium to the aluminum?
Excellent vid - What do you use for flux. Thank you
These long bars seem to come out pretty well, only a bit "lost" to shrink defect at the top. Have you tried making short, wide shapes (e.g. a 25mm thick 150mm dia disk) open faced into a steel mould? Just wondering how much would be usable.
What happens if you put oil inside the metal before pouring the aluminum in it.
Looking forward to the build 👍👍
That was pretty cool to see, thanks for sharing :D
Did you do anything to prep the tubing before the pour?
Like clean it up with something or smoke the inside tube with soot?
What did you salvage for aluminium stock to melt down?
It looks like solid round or square bar?
I wonder if white out would make it easier to remove the bar from the mold
Stra figo sto video fra !!
Hey what’s the welder you’re using?
I think if you also heat the pipe a little before you bump it out it may compress the bilot enough so that when it cools you have an easier time wacking it out
Genius! Would it work similarly with Copper, Bronze, Brass etc?
Excellent as usual! Looking forward to seeing more of this.
I poured in piece of tubing once and it didn’t work out like that at all lol I had to melt it back out.
my favorite part was watching you beat it out
Resourceful; kudos.
what type of welding rod?
Always preheat your form! this is a metal casting rule. If you don't not only steam bubbles can form in your casting and cause imprefection it can also splash and explode molten metal around. You never know if the mold is moist or has small ammounts of water on it even if it sits in a dry environment.
I love this videos
Did u heat up the steel at all before pouring?
Hello big like thanks for this beautiful video i love the result bravo see you later
Молодец!) Очень круто!
Nicely scrounged! :D
very good.
Thanks bro
Молодец. Вдохновляет!!!
Does anyone know if this process would work for brass?
Very good👌💯🤔