Man you have some DEVINE fabricating skills. That is pure talent. Out of this world buggy build! I bet your son is always smiling riding in that beast! Again great job an glad to see there are people still out there that can think it an build it. You have to send some pics of it on the trail!
Wow, I only wish you had shown more of building it! I'm currently building my own buggy, completely different class as mine is tiny compared to this and only a single seat 2 wheel drive, but it was cool to see how yours slowly came together and looking closely at your tubing bends and the brackets and gussets you've made
Thank you, I appreciate your comment. I didn't think this build would get this much attention. I'll make sure to document in more details on the next chassis!
Awesome video, thank you for sharing! That was very well done, i am staring this same type project soon and i love seeing videos like this. i enjoyed your other tube frame buggy build as well.
I really like your hole build ,I really like your header work ,I just built my own headers ,I am not a fab guy and no nothing about fab work , but I did it ,so I know how work intense it is good job they look awesome
Não sei se você vai ler meu comentário, mas quase chorei de emoção ao ver esse vídeo de como é feito este veiculo. Estava me matando tentando entender de que forma ele era construído. Vídeo excelente!!!!!!!
hello friend greetings from Venezuela'm a fan of your constructions off road vehicles congratulate you really know how serious quiciera cost of manufacture of one of those vehicles ..
Awesome build, amazing fabrication work, I was wondering if there are any special modifications for a fuel cell to run at extreme angles and prevent fuel starvation? Also I can't remember the exact name but do you use any kind of "oil scavenge" setup, i.e. pressurized tank (oil/air) that will supply oil in the event that the oil in the pan sloshed away from the pump? They are used in high performance drag vehicles where the acceleration causes a loss of oil to the pump, I could imagine a rock crawler having an issue with the extreme angles.
Thank you. You are right on both accounts. The fuel cell has a little compartment to prevent fuel starvation, and I usually keep it over quarter full. You can see more details about the fuel cell build here: ua-cam.com/video/677fFUlJWhg/v-deo.html I also run an oil accumulator for the engine to prevent oil starvation.
Great work! Can you please give me some details about the kind of the metal that you used . And the size of the pipes that you use it to made this beauty body😍
It's hard to put a price on it. I have been collecting parts for over 10 years. It should cost you as much as building a hot rod, 20k to 50k$, I guess.
Very nice job! The project, all the positioning work, the weldings, and the clever idea for the painting cabin! What kind of diferentials do you used? Both are front diferentials (for rear steering?) are they blockable or L.S.D.? Sorry ask you so many questions, but I live in Brazil, and that kind of machine is very rare here. Here is more usual to find this machines only 4x2 and with lighter motorization (1.8 lts turbo) I have great curiosity about the gearbox (automatic or manual) and the transfer case. Also imagine how do you control the rear steering! Greetings from Brazil!
Thank you! The differentials are both steering 2.5 ton military axles (from older military trucks). They are called rockwells. I have spools inside both of them (permanently locked). The transmission is Ford C6, it has manual valve body (it shifts manually only). The transfer case is Atlas 4-speed, custom built for me. The rear steer is controlled with a hydraulic/electric power pack (similar to dump trailers), I have an electric switch in between the seats for moving the rear axle.
Hi, my friend, I'm from Brazil, I'm very fan of these machines, great job, it was very beautiful. Your "toy" I have a question to ask you, how did you build the chassis? Do you buy it ready or do you do it yourself?
Not only a great job but a art work!! I would like to know if you have a project that I can follow, because I don't have experience in mechanics but I would like to set up one of these machines.If you have send me by email
I have a machine called tube roller. It started life as a cheap harbour freight tube roller and I modified it to make it roll tube easier using electricity rather then being manual.
Rg Sabat I've seen a lot of rock bouncers and i have to say the look and design of yours is one of the best I've ever seen hands down. You do nice work and definitely have an eye for detail. My issue is figuring the distance from top of axle to where you mount the coil over on the cage. So say the coil over is 36 inches long un-mounted, do you (at full compression) make the distance 29-30inches from top of axle to mounting location on cage (subtracting the 6-7inches of up travel)? I'd be afraid of fabbing it all up then the buggy sit to low or vice versa. Or how much do coilovers compress once you have weight on them..... or that big badass 545 big block you got :D Know what I mean? Thank you so much for your time. And again, nice work on that bouncer of yours.
Thank you. Yes, I understand your question. But the coil overs have all the adjustments you need to correct for all the height changes you want. I wasn't concerned with the distance from the top of axle to the CO cage mount when I was building. This is not universal, it will depend on parameters such as length of CO shaft (14, 16 or 18), brand of CO, etc... When you are building at full compression, you take off the springs so that the CO is fully compressed. Now, you design your belly (which is the lowest point of your chassis) to be at the ride height you want, minus how much shaft showing you want on the CO at ride height. For me, I was aiming to have 22" belly at ride height, so 22" -7" = 15", so I designed the belly to be 15" above the ground (or base plane) at full compression, with the tires on. This way the whole chassis will be as low as possible. After you are done building, you need to find the correct spring rates to achieve the 6-7" of up travel you were aiming for. This will depend on the unsprung weight. Remember that you also can thread in or out the top spring mount on the CO to increase the ride height if you want. There are other things to think about too, like the bump stop mounts. I set my bump stops to be fully compressed at 1" before the CO shaft is fully compressed (so 1" of shaft showing). This is not an exact science, but it seems to work well for me.
Hi RG - great work, I love your commitment and the fact you’re passing it on to nextgen. could you provide further details on the transfer case? For example, do you use a www.filthymotorsports.com/Atlas_2_Speed_p/atlas-2spd.htm? Also scratching my head on why two brake pedals? And, probably a stupid question, but do you really need the big block? What are you running 700 hp?
Thank you for your comment. I use a 4-speed atlas transfer case, 2:1 ratio in the main case and 2.72:1 in the crawl box before it. I use only the 2:1 case 90% of the time when I wheel. So, a 2 -speed would be just fine. I have two brake pedals, one for the front axle and one for the rear axle. The brakes are independent for safety, the other day a log ripped my rear brake line, but I was able to continue wheeling that day. One benefit is also to do a front dig (brake rear axle and power to the front) to turn sharply. Not a stupid question at all about the big block, it has 550 hp. The question of big block versus small block (of any kind) is a matter of personal preference and a debatable question by many! My vision is that the big block is easier to achieve high HP for the money invested and I like the low end torque (a lot), the down side is that they are heavier, but that doesn't bother me much. To me what really makes the difference offroad is power to weight ratio.
Rg Sabat ok thanks! this will be my next build I built a buggy before with a harbor freight bender and I need something a little better with tighter bends and less hand pumping lol
I am sorry but I don't have any plans. However, I might be doing step-by-step instructional videos in the future on how to build a chassis like this. You can subscribe to channel if you like.
@@rgsabat I hope in the close future you will make that wideo because I would like to create similar monster as your. From today - subscribe and notifications ;)
If you want to buy a turn key buggy similar to this one, it would cost between 50K$ to 100k$, depending on the options. If you build it yourself, you would save lots of money in labor.
did you make any plans on a computerprogramm for the chassi? if yes could you please tell me what programm you had used? sorry for bad english im from austria^^
I didn't use any computer program. I had a general idea about the look in my head when I first started, and then I designed and built the chassis on the spot.
Hello good day I am from Colombia, Bucaramanga Santander Is that I want to do a buggy but I can not find some plans to be able to build it I would like to know if you could help me with some plans THANK YOU VERY MUCH.
I'm sorry, I don't have any plans for building a buggy. I design the chassis as I'm building it in my garage. I didn't even know it will look like that when I started building this one.
The pro tools bender is around 400$, the die is around 400$ and the harbor freight roller is around 200$. But none of my benders are stock, all of them have been heavily modified. I was planning on making some new videos soon about bending tube and how I do it.
WERY wery COOL ! GOOD LUCK IN RUSSIA !! WE WATCH YOUR VIDEOS AND WATCH YOUR CREATIVITY! FAT LIKE!
Man you have some DEVINE fabricating skills. That is pure talent. Out of this world buggy build! I bet your son is always smiling riding in that beast! Again great job an glad to see there are people still out there that can think it an build it. You have to send some pics of it on the trail!
Thanks Shawn! You are right about my son loving it! He can't wait to be old enough to build his own.
Nice build glad to see you used a big ol Ford motor real nice !!!!
Thank you!
Wow, I only wish you had shown more of building it! I'm currently building my own buggy, completely different class as mine is tiny compared to this and only a single seat 2 wheel drive, but it was cool to see how yours slowly came together and looking closely at your tubing bends and the brackets and gussets you've made
Thank you, I appreciate your comment. I didn't think this build would get this much attention. I'll make sure to document in more details on the next chassis!
sweet build bud. building one is definitely on my bucket list.
Thank you
Congratulations what you have achieved !!!
Love it!
This is what living a good life is like haha great job and buy the way love your shop
Thank you :)
Awesome video, thank you for sharing! That was very well done, i am staring this same type project soon and i love seeing videos like this. i enjoyed your other tube frame buggy build as well.
+bretzelll Thank you!
I really like your hole build ,I really like your header work ,I just built my own headers ,I am not a fab guy and no nothing about fab work , but I did it ,so I know how work intense it is good job they look awesome
Thanks for your comment, and congrats on building your own headers! It is a great feeling when you put your mind into a challenge and accomplish it.
from Spain!!!! very very god job man!!!
Wow...Luuaaaaar Biasa...Mantaaap...!terimakasih atas kontennya....sukses slalu. Saya kagum sekali.
Stunning Machine. Good Work!
Many thanks!
Got to be one of the coolest videos I've seen thanks
your paint room looks like a kill room made by dexter morgan... lol AMAZING build man, i hope to do something like this someday.
lol... Thanks.
+Rg Sabat no problem!!!
Awesome work and design
Thanks
Watching at 2x speed and the music at the end turns into an almost decent drum and bass track!
Não sei se você vai ler meu comentário, mas quase chorei de emoção ao ver esse vídeo de como é feito este veiculo.
Estava me matando tentando entender de que forma ele era construído.
Vídeo excelente!!!!!!!
Awesome build man🤘 I’d love to have something like that 👍🇺🇸
Right on
Wow. So much work.
Beautiful Job!
nice work
Awesome Build!
Lots of respect. Very nice.
Thank you for taking the time to comment.
es un muy exelente y gran, gran trabajo... saludos desde Chile !!!
I like the buggatti window look a like ! good job man !
Thanks!
very nice work!
Thanks!
that settles it im starting my build this winter. thing looks amazing man. good job!
Thanks! Good luck on your build!
hi tell me plz the pipe diameter in mm and the woll tiknes plz , what a beutiful job u done 🙂
I would be proud to build such a fine machine
Thank you!
hello friend greetings from Venezuela'm a fan of your constructions off road vehicles congratulate you really know how serious quiciera cost of manufacture of one of those vehicles ..
Thank you. Vehicles like this usually cost between 30k and 70k us dollars.
well done, cool machine turned super!!!!!
Very impressive!
Esta excelente. Quiero hacer uno de estos
Awesome build, amazing fabrication work, I was wondering if there are any special modifications for a fuel cell to run at extreme angles and prevent fuel starvation? Also I can't remember the exact name but do you use any kind of "oil scavenge" setup, i.e. pressurized tank (oil/air) that will supply oil in the event that the oil in the pan sloshed away from the pump? They are used in high performance drag vehicles where the acceleration causes a loss of oil to the pump, I could imagine a rock crawler having an issue with the extreme angles.
Thank you. You are right on both accounts. The fuel cell has a little compartment to prevent fuel starvation, and I usually keep it over quarter full. You can see more details about the fuel cell build here: ua-cam.com/video/677fFUlJWhg/v-deo.html I also run an oil accumulator for the engine to prevent oil starvation.
I love whaching your videos 10 years ago I bild a buggy but was somthing what i love now I whant to try a project like yours I need loots details 🙂
Beleza 👍👍👏
молодец, крутая машинка получилось супер!!!!!
Awesome buggy
wow, awesome skills.
Bro that is bad ass !
Thank you.
nice work.
+DW 4X4 Thanks!
good job👍👍👍👍
What are the quality of the engine and laker
nice work... !
Thanks!
Love the Pink Floyd music mix. Yeah, the bouncer is cool too.lol
hermoso a la vista de un amante de los fierros
Darn if only i could or had the skills to build something like this
How do you Rock-bouncers roll those 12' Radius bends off 2" .120 wall. ?
Great work!
Can you please give me some details about the kind of the metal that you used . And the size of the pipes that you use it to made this beauty body😍
Thank you. For the chassis, I used 1 5/8" OD tube by 0.120" wall thickness, mild steel.
Great work!!! It is pretty terribly trying to paint a tube chassis while having an air line hanging down.
+Malarkosaurus Thanks! yes, it wasn't the best setup for painting, but I wanted to try to do everything in my own shop.
I like it. Excellent work sir.
Thank you.
As a wise man once said, * oooooo a very nice*
que medidas es el caño del chassis ???
Que chingón está tu trbajo
What’s the body or body blooprint
Merhaba piroje sini nerden alabilirim yardimci olurmusuniz
Very nice.
3-38 мин это ударник как работает ???
и как оно утроена ???
Where did you get those kind of skills !? It's an amazing build !
Thanks! Self taught metal fabrication.
How much did all the dom tubing cost? And what transmission and transfer case did you use? Awesome looking bouncer
That is awesome man. I’m interested in doing on about how much the whole thing cost?
It's hard to put a price on it. I have been collecting parts for over 10 years. It should cost you as much as building a hot rod, 20k to 50k$, I guess.
What is the name of the engine of this buggy?
Amazing 😎🤙🏻
Very nice job! The project, all the positioning work, the weldings, and the clever idea for the painting cabin!
What kind of diferentials do you used? Both are front diferentials (for rear steering?) are they blockable or L.S.D.?
Sorry ask you so many questions, but I live in Brazil, and that kind of machine is very rare here. Here is more usual to find this machines only 4x2 and with lighter motorization (1.8 lts turbo)
I have great curiosity about the gearbox (automatic or manual) and the transfer case. Also imagine how do you control the rear steering!
Greetings from Brazil!
Thank you! The differentials are both steering 2.5 ton military axles (from older military trucks). They are called rockwells. I have spools inside both of them (permanently locked). The transmission is Ford C6, it has manual valve body (it shifts manually only). The transfer case is Atlas 4-speed, custom built for me. The rear steer is controlled with a hydraulic/electric power pack (similar to dump trailers), I have an electric switch in between the seats for moving the rear axle.
I will see what I can found here in Brazil, i subscribed your channel. Will keep u posted! Thank's
nice work if I may ask jake you use a silencer ?
Great . I have a question is there a project for construction if exists could you inform me?
Bad ass!
what the music...i love that
+Edo Prasetyawan Music by Topher Mohr and Alex Elena
Nice work pal! All done in a 2 car garage even! I'm impressed! Ball park on your budget build?
Thank you. I collected parts for many years, I would say about 30k-40k$.
very very very big big big love!!!!!!!!!!!
супер. цена проекта ?
Hi, my friend, I'm from Brazil, I'm very fan of these machines, great job, it was very beautiful. Your "toy" I have a question to ask you, how did you build the chassis? Do you buy it ready or do you do it yourself?
Thank you. I didn't buy it ready, I designed and built the whole chassis myself piece by piece.
Ball show, great job !!
Very cool, and have to manufactures there in your city or Mr. know someone who manufactures, wanted to buy a for a Cherokee v8 engine
how much did it cost? how long?
What size tubing is the body made out of? 1.5"? 2"?
1 5/8" OD
Hola amigos sus videos son exelentes , pero me gustaria que lo hagan en español gracias saludos .
brilliant
hi great job
what steel did you use for the chassis?
Thank you. I used mostly 1 5/8" OD cold rolled mild steel tubes.
thank you
Not only a great job but a art work!! I would like to know if you have a project that I can follow, because I don't have experience in mechanics but I would like to set up one of these machines.If you have send me by email
Thank you! I'm sorry I'm not working on anything now.
How do you fabricate your curved tubes? Is that from metal rollers or bender? Very nice!!
I have a machine called tube roller. It started life as a cheap harbour freight tube roller and I modified it to make it roll tube easier using electricity rather then being manual.
brother, you are a badass...are you a mechanical engineer?
Thank you! I'm not a mechanical engineer. Believe it or not, but I have learned fab skills by practicing and searching the web.
@RG Sabat
hi, excelent job, the question is, is it possible to get any plans of this monster? I dream to build same like your one. Many thanks
Thank you. I don't have any plans. I didn't even know the final look when I started building it.
Where could I get the cage plan
I don’t know where to get a cage plan, I didn’t follow a plan building mine.
How do you measure the ride height for coil over install? distance from axle to cage?
I built the whole chassis at full compression, and then I chose the coil-over spring rates to get 6-7" of up travel. That's it.
Rg Sabat I've seen a lot of rock bouncers and i have to say the look and design of yours is one of the best I've ever seen hands down. You do nice work and definitely have an eye for detail. My issue is figuring the distance from top of axle to where you mount the coil over on the cage. So say the coil over is 36 inches long un-mounted, do you (at full compression) make the distance 29-30inches from top of axle to mounting location on cage (subtracting the 6-7inches of up travel)? I'd be afraid of fabbing it all up then the buggy sit to low or vice versa. Or how much do coilovers compress once you have weight on them..... or that big badass 545 big block you got :D Know what I mean? Thank you so much for your time. And again, nice work on that bouncer of yours.
Thank you. Yes, I understand your question. But the coil overs have all the adjustments you need to correct for all the height changes you want. I wasn't concerned with the distance from the top of axle to the CO cage mount when I was building. This is not universal, it will depend on parameters such as length of CO shaft (14, 16 or 18), brand of CO, etc... When you are building at full compression, you take off the springs so that the CO is fully compressed. Now, you design your belly (which is the lowest point of your chassis) to be at the ride height you want, minus how much shaft showing you want on the CO at ride height. For me, I was aiming to have 22" belly at ride height, so 22" -7" = 15", so I designed the belly to be 15" above the ground (or base plane) at full compression, with the tires on. This way the whole chassis will be as low as possible. After you are done building, you need to find the correct spring rates to achieve the 6-7" of up travel you were aiming for. This will depend on the unsprung weight. Remember that you also can thread in or out the top spring mount on the CO to increase the ride height if you want. There are other things to think about too, like the bump stop mounts. I set my bump stops to be fully compressed at 1" before the CO shaft is fully compressed (so 1" of shaft showing). This is not an exact science, but it seems to work well for me.
Hi RG - great work, I love your commitment and the fact you’re passing it on to nextgen.
could you provide further details on the transfer case? For example, do you use a www.filthymotorsports.com/Atlas_2_Speed_p/atlas-2spd.htm?
Also scratching my head on why two brake pedals?
And, probably a stupid question, but do you really need the big block? What are you running 700 hp?
Thank you for your comment. I use a 4-speed atlas transfer case, 2:1 ratio in the main case and 2.72:1 in the crawl box before it. I use only the 2:1 case 90% of the time when I wheel. So, a 2 -speed would be just fine. I have two brake pedals, one for the front axle and one for the rear axle. The brakes are independent for safety, the other day a log ripped my rear brake line, but I was able to continue wheeling that day. One benefit is also to do a front dig (brake rear axle and power to the front) to turn sharply. Not a stupid question at all about the big block, it has 550 hp. The question of big block versus small block (of any kind) is a matter of personal preference and a debatable question by many! My vision is that the big block is easier to achieve high HP for the money invested and I like the low end torque (a lot), the down side is that they are heavier, but that doesn't bother me much. To me what really makes the difference offroad is power to weight ratio.
Is that welded seam tubing?
yes
What did you use to bend the pipe? what kind of pipe bender?
I used an electric/hydraulic ProTools 105HD tube bender, and a modified harbour freight tube roller.
Rg Sabat ok thanks! this will be my next build I built a buggy before with a harbor freight bender and I need something a little better with tighter bends and less hand pumping lol
Thanks for answering friend
Wow... Itz peri peri eweansome car
Qual e motor que vc usa
how long did you build this monster machine?
about 8 months
Hi! Very nice project! Where can I buy some Heim joints like yours for a good price? Thanks you!
Thanks. Ruffstuff specialities.
Hi mate, is it any chance to get any plans of your chasse? Thanks for answer
I am sorry but I don't have any plans. However, I might be doing step-by-step instructional videos in the future on how to build a chassis like this. You can subscribe to channel if you like.
@@rgsabat I hope in the close future you will make that wideo because I would like to create similar monster as your. From today - subscribe and notifications ;)
2:49 what is the name of it
Heim joints.
RG Sabat thank you
what transmission is that you're using?
Ford C6 transmission
+Rg Sabat Oh ok that's a solid tranny. did you do any upgrades to it?
Yes, it does have some upgrades to handle the extra power, but I'm not sure about the details on the internals.
Well I love the dune buggy with the 545 man that's some serious shit. Your a very skilled welder! And fabricator
Thank you!
How much a project like this costs?
If you want to buy a turn key buggy similar to this one, it would cost between 50K$ to 100k$, depending on the options. If you build it yourself, you would save lots of money in labor.
did you make any plans on a computerprogramm for the chassi?
if yes could you please tell me what programm you had used?
sorry for bad english im from austria^^
I didn't use any computer program. I had a general idea about the look in my head when I first started, and then I designed and built the chassis on the spot.
Hello good day
I am from Colombia, Bucaramanga Santander
Is that I want to do a buggy but I can not find some plans to be able to build it
I would like to know if you could help me with some plans
THANK YOU VERY MUCH.
I'm sorry, I don't have any plans for building a buggy. I design the chassis as I'm building it in my garage. I didn't even know it will look like that when I started building this one.
Rg Sabat Ok thanks, you do not know who can help me with some plans. I like you very much 😔
Rg Sabat
That bad that you do not have plans you are very well, I liked it very much 😖
How can I contact you I have questions
what do you use to bend the tube
I have a Pro Tools 105HD tube bender and a custom tube roller that I built out of a Harbor Freight tube roller.
The pro tools bender is around 400$, the die is around 400$ and the harbor freight roller is around 200$. But none of my benders are stock, all of them have been heavily modified. I was planning on making some new videos soon about bending tube and how I do it.
I mean the frame and chassis
the main rails are 31" apart and the chassis width is 54".