Useful video - this repair process worked for me thanks. For those who can’t easily transplant in the extra section of wire, you can just buy online a replacement solenoid for £15 + P&P or a complete circuit board for £20 + P&P. To easily remove the handle, just remove all the side cover screws and slide the cover upwards, then reach inside and bend the small black latch down to release the handle. The extremely fine/fragile solenoid wires are obviously this toaster’s weak link in the chain and designed to fail after a few year’s use so that they sell more toasters!
It is good to hear that replacement parts are available. Since the broken wire on my toaster was still accessible, I didn’t check for replacement parts. But as you mention - this is a weak point in the design.
Thank you! This is exactly what was wrong with my sister’s toaster. I had to use a microscope to solder to the fine wire, but it works now. My sister’s only complaint is that she didn’t realize how easily the little hook that holds the knob in moves, and she accidentally broke it.
A few notes that may be useful: UNPLUG THE TOASTER. Geez, like this wouldn’t be obvious, but ok, there we are. There are three Phillips head screws PH#1 underneath the toaster that have to be loosened to remove the shell that contains the failed part (the knob side) Then you have to release the cleaning catches on the underside of the toaster, flip down the glass sides like you were going to clean it, and take out two Torx #10 screws hidden in the frame sides that hold the end shell on (specialty screwdriver head). Then you need to slide the knob-side shell of the toaster upward with the knob and its lever stopping you from removing it entirely. If you look up into the slid-up shell with a flashlight at that point, you will see that the toaster knob is inserted into a vertical socket. A plastic latch holds the metal shaft for the knob into that socket. If you take a thin screwdriver you can pry the slot latch away just enough to release it and pull the knob and its stem out without any issue and without breaking the plastic retention latch. WIth the knob released, take entire shell off. You will see the Printed Circuit Board (PCB) with the solenoid that retains the toaster knob and holds your bread down-and that’s usually what has failed; the wires in the solenoid have corroded/broken. Use wire nippers to cut the two plastic zip ties holding the wire bundles BUT NOT THE WIRES to the printed circuit board. Unscrew the one Phillips head screw and the plastic hold down securing the printed circuit board and slide the printed circuit board out. You can then either attempt to repair the single solenoid as outlined in some other videos or you can buy the replacement printed circuit board and do a wholesale replacement. Prices for the entire new circuit boards from, oddly, British suppliers seem to range between $15 and $45 USD-- I don’t understand the difference in vendors ---and it takes 5 to 7 days of shipping. My solenoid just wouldn't allow itself to be repaired in the part evening I allocated to this, so--I ordered a new PCB. If you get a whole new circuit board, then you need to disconnect the multi-wired white plug from the board, then de-solder FOUR wires from the old PCB while you solder them sequentially back into the replacement PCB. Don't screw that up! I did them one at a time. Once you have the new circuit board soldered to those four wires, plug it in to the white wire harness plug that you carefully took off the old board, put the whole thing back together again with the two small zip ties that you clipped off. Re-attach the small Phillips screw and the plastic hold down that stabilizes the PCB to the toaster shell, then slide the shell back back on. Carefully put the lever back into the slot until the "click" tells you that the plastic latch is engaged on its metal shaft, attach the three Phillips screws underneath, and screw in the two Torx screws in the frame on either side of the glass flip out windows--and boom---you're back to toast.
Same problem here, it turned out to be an easy fix if you have the right sized (pencil type) soldering iron. Rather than enamel wire, I just used a single strand from a larger 14 or 12awg stranded wire
Also had the same problem. Guess I shouldn't be surprised that french electronics behaves like this. Hasn't been able to assemble the toaster completely yet though. Some cable gets pinched so the RCD shuts the house down. Can't dive into the problem completely as the knob won't come off. Is there any trick to get the knob off?
I just pulled the knob straight out and eventually it came out without breaking anything. I imagine there is some sort of a secret sequence that was designed in, but wedging my fingers between the side and the knob did it for me.
@@HelloWorldETX Thanks for your reply. I was not able to muscle it off but it turns out the knob was locked in place by a plastic "latch" so by pushing the latch down with a tiny flathead screw driver, I was able to remove the knob easily.
Hello all! In my case, with the same issue, the problem was caused by an imperfect contact of one from two microswitches located on the opposite side, which actually are the safety system for the glass dors. After I installed a small piece of plastic underneath the microswitch board, the toaster finally is working.
I came to find out how to make magnetic bubbles, and I found out how to fix a toaster! I was hooked by your vids 50-52 and now I'm hanging for the next installment.. Is there another part and I'm just really bad at finding it ? More bubbles please!
Yep. Happy to report the toaster is still doing well. I need to get back to the bubble videos, the next one will be on the bubble generator and the role of the seed bubble. Thanks for the feedback
@@HelloWorldETX Mine seems to be an older model and was Torx 10. The repair was too fiddly for me so I bought a new PCB from Magimix £20 + £4 postage and changed the whole thing. Excellent video for explaining the fault, mines now fixed so I'm proud of myself for not sending it to landfill. thanks for sharing
@@pg5400 kudos to magimix for making replacement parts available. While it costs much more in the US ($45), the fact that it is even available is good news.
Thanks for the sharing, very instructive. I have the same effect but not the same cause. Checking the electronic I can see that one of the electrical resistants has burned (R22). Its coloured bars aren't readable anymore, so is it still fixable? Is that kind of circuit documented?
Resistors rarely go bad by themselves, something else causes them to burn out. So I would guess there is something else going on. I do not think I have any photos of the board to get the resistor values and there are no schematics that I have seen. Can you see your burnt resistor colors in my video?
@@HelloWorldETX Sorry for my delay, .... yes at the video timer: 3:06, on the upper left of the platine, just beside the black box (SRD-S-109D; B1/B2) there are 2 same components L1, L2 and in front of them a bue one (R22 that the label on the board). I would like to know the R22. You know I already Email Magimix support, ... they kindly refuse to respond, redirecting me to Magimix network service support. Not very help or kind to save the planet by repairing.
@@tristangeoffroy9286 Just on the off chance, don't suppose you ever got an answer on that R22 component? Has gone pop on mine too (I think happened when a heater element failed, but I didn't spot it when I ordered a new element).. Thanks!
@@tristangeoffroy9286 Thanks, was just trying to id the blown R22 component, but have subsequently desoldered it and identified as a 05D221K MOV. Am now assuming something else took a hit when it failed..
Useful video - this repair process worked for me thanks. For those who can’t easily transplant in the extra section of wire, you can just buy online a replacement solenoid for £15 + P&P or a complete circuit board for £20 + P&P. To easily remove the handle, just remove all the side cover screws and slide the cover upwards, then reach inside and bend the small black latch down to release the handle. The extremely fine/fragile solenoid wires are obviously this toaster’s weak link in the chain and designed to fail after a few year’s use so that they sell more toasters!
It is good to hear that replacement parts are available. Since the broken wire on my toaster was still accessible, I didn’t check for replacement parts. But as you mention - this is a weak point in the design.
Thank you! This is exactly what was wrong with my sister’s toaster. I had to use a microscope to solder to the fine wire, but it works now. My sister’s only complaint is that she didn’t realize how easily the little hook that holds the knob in moves, and she accidentally broke it.
It worked for me ... I managed to fix it like you recommended.
Thank you!
Another toaster saved from the dustbin.
Indeed! And i'm so proud of that. :)@@HelloWorldETX
Mine is now 12 years old and the latch stopped working this morning. I will try this. Thanks
Gosh ! Super great video with mega close-up on the fix you did!! This is just a great job you did there!! Kudoz to you and thanx for your time 🙂
Very useful. Thanks
A few notes that may be useful:
UNPLUG THE TOASTER.
Geez, like this wouldn’t be obvious, but ok, there we are.
There are three Phillips head screws PH#1 underneath the toaster that have to be loosened to remove the shell that contains the failed part (the knob side)
Then you have to release the cleaning catches on the underside of the toaster, flip down the glass sides like you were going to clean it, and take out two Torx #10 screws hidden in the frame sides that hold the end shell on (specialty screwdriver head).
Then you need to slide the knob-side shell of the toaster upward with the knob and its lever stopping you from removing it entirely.
If you look up into the slid-up shell with a flashlight at that point, you will see that the toaster knob is inserted into a vertical socket.
A plastic latch holds the metal shaft for the knob into that socket. If you take a thin screwdriver you can pry the slot latch away just enough to release it and pull the knob and its stem out without any issue and without breaking the plastic retention latch.
WIth the knob released, take entire shell off. You will see the Printed Circuit Board (PCB) with the solenoid that retains the toaster knob and holds your bread down-and that’s usually what has failed; the wires in the solenoid have corroded/broken.
Use wire nippers to cut the two plastic zip ties holding the wire bundles BUT NOT THE WIRES to the printed circuit board.
Unscrew the one Phillips head screw and the plastic hold down securing the printed circuit board and slide the printed circuit board out.
You can then either attempt to repair the single solenoid as outlined in some other videos or you can buy the replacement printed circuit board and do a wholesale replacement.
Prices for the entire new circuit boards from, oddly, British suppliers seem to range between $15 and $45 USD-- I don’t understand the difference in vendors ---and it takes 5 to 7 days of shipping. My solenoid just wouldn't allow itself to be repaired in the part evening I allocated to this, so--I ordered a new PCB.
If you get a whole new circuit board, then you need to disconnect the multi-wired white plug from the board, then de-solder FOUR wires from the old PCB while you solder them sequentially back into the replacement PCB. Don't screw that up! I did them one at a time.
Once you have the new circuit board soldered to those four wires, plug it in to the white wire harness plug that you carefully took off the old board, put the whole thing back together again with the two small zip ties that you clipped off. Re-attach the small Phillips screw and the plastic hold down that stabilizes the PCB to the toaster shell, then slide the shell back back on. Carefully put the lever back into the slot until the "click" tells you that the plastic latch is engaged on its metal shaft, attach the three Phillips screws underneath, and screw in the two Torx screws in the frame on either side of the glass flip out windows--and boom---you're back to toast.
@@rogerwu7594 good detail and suggestions
Same problem here, it turned out to be an easy fix if you have the right sized (pencil type) soldering iron. Rather than enamel wire, I just used a single strand from a larger 14 or 12awg stranded wire
Also had the same problem. Guess I shouldn't be surprised that french electronics behaves like this. Hasn't been able to assemble the toaster completely yet though. Some cable gets pinched so the RCD shuts the house down. Can't dive into the problem completely as the knob won't come off. Is there any trick to get the knob off?
I just pulled the knob straight out and eventually it came out without breaking anything. I imagine there is some sort of a secret sequence that was designed in, but wedging my fingers between the side and the knob did it for me.
@@HelloWorldETX Thanks for your reply. I was not able to muscle it off but it turns out the knob was locked in place by a plastic "latch" so by pushing the latch down with a tiny flathead screw driver, I was able to remove the knob easily.
Hello all! In my case, with the same issue, the problem was caused by an imperfect contact of one from two microswitches located on the opposite side, which actually are the safety system for the glass dors. After I installed a small piece of plastic underneath the microswitch board, the toaster finally is working.
@@cristinastase3998 so the switch needed a little shim to adjust its switch point? Or was something shorting?
Good work. Get satisfaction in self repairing
Thanks for the assist on how to take it apart.
glad it was helpful. happy toasting.
I came to find out how to make magnetic bubbles, and I found out how to fix a toaster! I was hooked by your vids 50-52 and now I'm hanging for the next installment.. Is there another part and I'm just really bad at finding it ? More bubbles please!
Yep. Happy to report the toaster is still doing well.
I need to get back to the bubble videos, the next one will be on the bubble generator and the role of the seed bubble. Thanks for the feedback
@@HelloWorldETX Mine seems to be an older model and was Torx 10. The repair was too fiddly for me so I bought a new PCB from Magimix £20 + £4 postage and changed the whole thing. Excellent video for explaining the fault, mines now fixed so I'm proud of myself for not sending it to landfill. thanks for sharing
@@pg5400 kudos to magimix for making replacement parts available. While it costs much more in the US ($45), the fact that it is even available is good news.
What did you use to remove the machine screws at the sides of the glass doors?
On mine they were just Phillips head machine screws, no special tools required.
@@HelloWorldETX mine were torex 15 although I had to use a 3point 2.0 to get one damaged screw out
@@marcusphilips7891 TX 10 on mine and very tight!
Thanks for the sharing, very instructive. I have the same effect but not the same cause. Checking the electronic I can see that one of the electrical resistants has burned (R22). Its coloured bars aren't readable anymore, so is it still fixable? Is that kind of circuit documented?
Resistors rarely go bad by themselves, something else causes them to burn out. So I would guess there is something else going on. I do not think I have any photos of the board to get the resistor values and there are no schematics that I have seen. Can you see your burnt resistor colors in my video?
@@HelloWorldETX Sorry for my delay, .... yes at the video timer: 3:06, on the upper left of the platine, just beside the black box (SRD-S-109D; B1/B2) there are 2 same components L1, L2 and in front of them a bue one (R22 that the label on the board). I would like to know the R22. You know I already Email Magimix support, ... they kindly refuse to respond, redirecting me to Magimix network service support. Not very help or kind to save the planet by repairing.
@@tristangeoffroy9286 Just on the off chance, don't suppose you ever got an answer on that R22 component? Has gone pop on mine too (I think happened when a heater element failed, but I didn't spot it when I ordered a new element).. Thanks!
@@jescombe yes I did find and change the component and I worked. Do you need something ?
@@tristangeoffroy9286 Thanks, was just trying to id the blown R22 component, but have subsequently desoldered it and identified as a 05D221K MOV. Am now assuming something else took a hit when it failed..
what can you expect from a toast that cost 170 dollars : O