Thanks for posting the video. To get this procedure to work on my 2003 Silverado I had to go a step further. I left the fuse alone. Instead I disconnected the positive and negative battery cables, held the two cable ends together for 30-40 seconds and then waited another 20 minutes or so to reconnect the battery and then follow the process you described. My guess is there was residual voltage stored in various capacitors that needed to be drained. Nothing else worked for me.
Great video. Got a 2002 Suburban that I purchased recently. It's got vent motor problem I now see. Tried the recalibration procedure and I now hear the actuator motor working, but does not get the front vents. Hearing a click as it tries to find the front vent actuator. Will have to work on it when it gets warmer.
05 yukon. I replaced my digital control box with a junkyard box and it's still only works at 90°. So I'm just going to leave it.. I did the reset like you did and now my front is working fine on the actuators no year later my rear heat only blows cold. Actually I think it's because I unplugged the battery and I'm going to have to do that again. I've got a parasite draw in my door lock switch is supposed to be common in these suburbans and yukons GMc trucks. Last year I replaced my battery that cured the radio clock being at 12 every day. That's what started the whole goose chase. I replace the radio bad idea because junkyard radios don't work unless you pull a tiny little black resistor. I had to find a video about it. Gm suks
You did everything right except you need to install the part not just have it hanging there. The only way it’s going to move the blend door is it has to be installed.
Yep. The blend door actuator needs to go full hot and cold to know where it needs to be. When it receives resistance from the blend door bottoming out it stops and learns the position.
-- Hey thanks, same problem up front. Those cams really like to be lubed as well (under the dashed) used silicone. You could save me a crap ton of time answering this: does this recalibration work for the rear HVAC system as well? What I really need to know now before I spend 95 bucks on a rear module.
I'm not sure about the rear. I actually put a rear module in this car as well and it has been working without issue. So I would give it a try. It costs nothing but a few minutes of your time.
@@brettbuiltit7504 -- Yeah tried it a couple times. Nothing happened, so one of three things. Calibration doesn't work for rear HVAC, the actuator, or module back there is gone, or both. When my parts come in and it get it swapped out, I'll come back and let you know if it does work.
@@MarkJacksonGaming problem for me was actually the wrong actuator. That one in this video was actually for the rear. Got one for the front from an actual parts store and not the jungle website and it worked just fine. I did a part 2 video about it. I'm just amazed somebody found my rambling somewhat useful.
@@brettbuiltit7504 -- You're not going to believe this. I was turning the heat/cool dial on the rear HVAC all the way to the hottest setting. Yeah, put on the reading glasses, that's 'AUTO'. Of course this was after I tore it all apart today, looking at it, and the actuator seemed to be working fine. Long story short, I'm a complete idiot, but I did get a look at the module part number, already replaced OEM. What's that saying: the sun shines on a dog's ass every once in a while. 200 bucks saved :) Thanks again for your help.
Thanks for posting the video. To get this procedure to work on my 2003 Silverado I had to go a step further.
I left the fuse alone. Instead I disconnected the positive and negative battery cables, held the two cable ends together for 30-40 seconds and then waited another 20 minutes or so to reconnect the battery and then follow the process you described. My guess is there was residual voltage stored in various capacitors that needed to be drained. Nothing else worked for me.
Great video. Got a 2002 Suburban that I purchased recently. It's got vent motor problem I now see. Tried the recalibration procedure and I now hear the actuator motor working, but does not get the front vents. Hearing a click as it tries to find the front vent actuator. Will have to work on it when it gets warmer.
How did you get to the acuator? Good video.
05 yukon. I replaced my digital control box with a junkyard box and it's still only works at 90°.
So I'm just going to leave it.. I did the reset like you did and now my front is working fine on the actuators no year later my rear heat only blows cold. Actually I think it's because I unplugged the battery and I'm going to have to do that again. I've got a parasite draw in my door lock switch is supposed to be common in these suburbans and yukons GMc trucks.
Last year I replaced my battery that cured the radio clock being at 12 every day. That's what started the whole goose chase. I replace the radio bad idea because junkyard radios don't work unless you pull a tiny little black resistor.
I had to find a video about it. Gm suks
worked great ...once I pulled the right fuse. #38 fuse / HVAV IGN. on my 2010 Avalanche. Thanks
Worked great in my 2005 suburban. Heat was blowing on passengers side when on cool. Fuse out then in and works great. Thanks for the free fix..
That’s what the internet is for!
@Spexic did you have to replace the actuator?
You did everything right except you need to install the part not just have it hanging there. The only way it’s going to move the blend door is it has to be installed.
You only have to remove the 10 amp fuse for HVAC not the radio fuse for recalibration.
Yep. The blend door actuator needs to go full hot and cold to know where it needs to be. When it receives resistance from the blend door bottoming out it stops and learns the position.
-- Hey thanks, same problem up front. Those cams really like to be lubed as well (under the dashed) used silicone. You could save me a crap ton of time answering this: does this recalibration work for the rear HVAC system as well? What I really need to know now before I spend 95 bucks on a rear module.
I'm not sure about the rear. I actually put a rear module in this car as well and it has been working without issue. So I would give it a try. It costs nothing but a few minutes of your time.
@@brettbuiltit7504 -- Yeah tried it a couple times. Nothing happened, so one of three things. Calibration doesn't work for rear HVAC, the actuator, or module back there is gone, or both.
When my parts come in and it get it swapped out, I'll come back and let you know if it does work.
@@MarkJacksonGaming problem for me was actually the wrong actuator. That one in this video was actually for the rear. Got one for the front from an actual parts store and not the jungle website and it worked just fine. I did a part 2 video about it. I'm just amazed somebody found my rambling somewhat useful.
@@brettbuiltit7504 -- You're not going to believe this. I was turning the heat/cool dial on the rear HVAC all the way to the hottest setting. Yeah, put on the reading glasses, that's 'AUTO'. Of course this was after I tore it all apart today, looking at it, and the actuator seemed to be working fine. Long story short, I'm a complete idiot, but I did get a look at the module part number, already replaced OEM. What's that saying: the sun shines on a dog's ass every once in a while. 200 bucks saved :) Thanks again for your help.
Very helpful. Thank you.
Cómo estás me puedes decir cómo cambiar los filtros del aire ?
mine is doing the same thing as yours, new actuator isn't moving.. did you ever get it fixed?
did u ever fix it ?
No heat on both driver and passenger sides?
Thank you very much i helped my sister with her tahoe now she has heat again👍🏻👍🏻
👍👍👌
Tried this 3 times and mine keeps coming back up at 75 not 74
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