I shoot split finger, and mine usually runs 1/4” - 3/8” above square. Your info is spot on. Start there and adjust as needed when tuning. I tie my nocking points on as well.
I'm glad you've made it clear that it needs to be a squate 90°, I was thinking that would be correct but no video so far has actually said it. I SEE AN 8th of an Inch higher than square because pulling back the bow will change the position.
I was having to run a high nock point. Heard some crazy talk of 3under (what I shoot too) guys running negative tiller, I tried it and was able to get 1/4 inch nock height with nice arrow flight.
I just found a really clean and easy way to remove those brass nocking points. Grab the side of the brass opposite the opening with a pair of pliers. Insert a flathead screwdriver into the gap in the brass ring, and just turn it until the ring comes right off. Quick, clean and doesn't harm the string. Cheers, thanks for making this video! 👍🏾💪🏾🏹
Knock point goes above the arrow knock. In other words, you knock your arrow under the brass knock point. And yes, you have to compensate for the arrow diameter (knock width). Otherwise the back of the arrow will be lower than the arrow rest. I find 3/8 inch above works well.
I watched a video where the nock point was set based on the tiller, example if the tiller was 1/8” or 1/4” the nock point was 1/8” or 1/4” above zero on the bow square for split finger shooters.
Can the type of string affect the nocking point? I bought a new string but it was a different type and I nocked it the same height as my original string but noticed the arrow wasn't clearing the rest cleanly and had to adjust.
Considering different string materials move at different speeds, yes. Different strings made of the same materials and that shoot at the same speed should be consistent though, but I'm no scientist lol
Hi i am a beginner just bought a JUNXING F158 bow 32lb ot comes with a square and brass knocks I have a question with this bow where would you recommend i put the knocking points on the bow i will try split finger positioning im going to tie knocks not brass as you said once on You cant take off At least if i get it not quite right i can move up or down string Can you give me advise David
Is that the top or the bottom, that brass thing has width so top or bottom of that and I'metric so don't say it , show me exactly where on the scale, also why not show a recurve setup, is the shelf the rest in that case? So many questions
5.44 I'll never get back 🤣 why not put the camera above, and looking down on the bow square so the viewer can see it. So it's measured from the 90 degree line to the 'underside of the top nocking point' is it? You never said and we can't see. I'm going to do a video on this.
Experiment and you will be surprised what you will learn. I would claim vanes need more separation but experimenting is much more enjoyable than trusting the book.
So, basically you don't really know and are just winging it. Set it here, set it there, just set anywhere that feels right to you. 5:43 of nothing, and no substance to boot.
This is 5 minutes of absolute waffle. It does not answer any of the questions people need to ask. Is the position he gives the the top of the bottom nocking point, upon which the arrow is supported, or the bottom of the top nocking point, and how then is the position of the other nocking point determined? If only one nocking point is to be used then how is that determined?
Great info Jim, keep them going! Could you make video about brace height, which one, lower or higher, i s better for long or short DL, how it impacts on arrow flight etc. There isn't much about it. Cheers
That helps. It made me realize there's no exact measurement for a knocking point but 3 under shooters like myself need it a little higher. Subscribed and liked 👍👍
hello Jim imjust curious hows that bow shoot in the back ground i thought i invent something unique , but i see u have something similar , i figured the pull on my lims around 200 for a normal bow putting the arrow around 700fps ,i keep breaking lims and bow string so i actually have shot it yet or given up ,whats the speed of that arrow if you dont mind me asking
I shoot 3 under with a neutral tiller, I still use a brass nocking point, But have it so I can screw it up or down the serving for 500 to 1100 spine arrow thickness and stiffness. Had the same brass nocking point for almost a year now.
Nice video. I shoot split finger and use nock heights between 1/4 and 3/8. I too hate those brass knocks, always seem to get a sharp edge and have to smoorh with needle files.
Holy shit I have a headache. I've watched over a dozen videos and no one is the same. I'm new to this
I shoot split finger, and mine usually runs 1/4” - 3/8” above square. Your info is spot on. Start there and adjust as needed when tuning. I tie my nocking points on as well.
I am a beginner and finally I've found a good explanation!
Omg finally something that makes sense
And believe me, I'd go to a store if there was one nearby
I'm glad you've made it clear that it needs to be a squate 90°, I was thinking that would be correct but no video so far has actually said it.
I SEE AN 8th of an Inch higher than square because pulling back the bow will change the position.
Hi,
that 1/8" you speak of, is that 1/8" mark above square - the bottom of the nock, the centre or the top of the nock?
Wayne
I was having to run a high nock point. Heard some crazy talk of 3under (what I shoot too) guys running negative tiller, I tried it and was able to get 1/4 inch nock height with nice arrow flight.
Ah! My pleas were answered, I was away on holiday. Thanks for this!
Love the color of the bow very nice my friend
Super simple explanation.
5/8'" to 3/4" works for me. I shoot three under. Most of the time I use 5/8"
I just found a really clean and easy way to remove those brass nocking points. Grab the side of the brass opposite the opening with a pair of pliers. Insert a flathead screwdriver into the gap in the brass ring, and just turn it until the ring comes right off. Quick, clean and doesn't harm the string. Cheers, thanks for making this video! 👍🏾💪🏾🏹
Thank you for this!
Thanks mate just got one of these today and yeah no instructions so great video tar!!
And does the arrow sit above or below the brass?
below
Hi Jim, does your arrow nock go under or ocher the nocking point at those measurements, thanks
I was wondering the same thing and came to the understanding that the given measurements are for the top of the bottom nocking point.
a nock point video that makes sense. They said it couldn't be done
As a total newbie, do you put your nock point below or above your arrow nock?
Either way, you must account for the width of your arrow nock?
Knock point goes above the arrow knock. In other words, you knock your arrow under the brass knock point. And yes, you have to compensate for the arrow diameter (knock width). Otherwise the back of the arrow will be lower than the arrow rest. I find 3/8 inch above works well.
I watched a video where the nock point was set based on the tiller, example if the tiller was 1/8” or 1/4” the nock point was 1/8” or 1/4” above zero on the bow square for split finger shooters.
Good video!!! Have to say every bow is different in its design. My bows jump between 3(8 to 5(8 ths. Point on 25 yards!!
Considering an arrow rest is the first step.
Should Brace height be made before installing the knocking point? Does it make a difference?
Yes
hahaha all the typeing peeps helped me decide.. tyvm :>)
Can the type of string affect the nocking point? I bought a new string but it was a different type and I nocked it the same height as my original string but noticed the arrow wasn't clearing the rest cleanly and had to adjust.
Considering different string materials move at different speeds, yes. Different strings made of the same materials and that shoot at the same speed should be consistent though, but I'm no scientist lol
Which bow is that?
This video is Nocking Point approved! ;-)
Like Jim needs any approval from me.
I was all excited, thought I would see the two of you together again ....... but nooooooooo!
I live my life to gain the approval of my two Archey dads! 🥰
Hi dear, does it make a diffrence for thumb draw style vs mediteranian draw ? Or is it the same nocking point position for both?
Hi i am a beginner just bought a JUNXING F158 bow 32lb ot comes with a square and brass knocks I have a question with this bow where would you recommend i put the knocking points on the bow i will try split finger positioning im going to tie knocks not brass as you said once on You cant take off At least if i get it not quite right i can move up or down string
Can you give me advise
David
Hey buddy, whats that black recurve on the left corner there?
I shoot 3 under and always start at 1/2” and occasionally even go 5/8”.
Is that the top or the bottom, that brass thing has width so top or bottom of that and I'metric so don't say it , show me exactly where on the scale, also why not show a recurve setup, is the shelf the rest in that case? So many questions
5.44 I'll never get back 🤣 why not put the camera above, and looking down on the bow square so the viewer can see it. So it's measured from the 90 degree line to the 'underside of the top nocking point' is it? You never said and we can't see. I'm going to do a video on this.
Experiment and you will be surprised what you will learn. I would claim vanes need more separation but experimenting is much more enjoyable than trusting the book.
Do you really need a nocking point?
I shot without a knocking point for 2 months... Pretty accurate. I put one on and I can't hit the target.... 😂
Nice info.. thanks for share..
completely different then mr Bodnik,he says ,should me much higher, eight eight of an inch .. confusing
So, basically you don't really know and are just winging it. Set it here, set it there, just set anywhere that feels right to you. 5:43 of nothing, and no substance to boot.
This is 5 minutes of absolute waffle. It does not answer any of the questions people need to ask. Is the position he gives the the top of the bottom nocking point, upon which the arrow is supported, or the bottom of the top nocking point, and how then is the position of the other nocking point determined? If only one nocking point is to be used then how is that determined?
Great info Jim, keep them going!
Could you make video about brace height, which one, lower or higher, i s better for long or short DL, how it impacts on arrow flight etc. There isn't much about it.
Cheers
That helps. It made me realize there's no exact measurement for a knocking point but 3 under shooters like myself need it a little higher. Subscribed and liked 👍👍
hello Jim imjust curious hows that bow shoot in the back ground i thought i invent something unique , but i see u have something similar , i figured the pull on my lims around 200 for a normal bow putting the arrow around 700fps ,i keep breaking lims and bow string so i actually have shot it yet or given up ,whats the speed of that arrow if you dont mind me asking
I shoot 3 under with a neutral tiller, I still use a brass nocking point, But have it so I can screw it up or down the serving for 500 to 1100 spine arrow thickness and stiffness. Had the same brass nocking point for almost a year now.
Could you use tape as a nocking point to test or even be permanent??!
Great tutorial videos!You got a new sub...
Nice video. I shoot split finger and use nock heights between 1/4 and 3/8.
I too hate those brass knocks, always seem to get a sharp edge and have to smoorh with needle files.
What else can you use besides brass?? Would tape work?
@@MOAON_AABE Serving or floss. Serving is preferred though
Way too low of a starting point. 3 fingers under can easily be 3/4” above level.