Відео

Short answer No, I have not. But I personally have ton of unused filament that finally found use in this project. Worth mentioning that products like this doesn't exists outside of 3D printing - it has grind that holds boxes tight and even if you take one out from the middle the rest will stay on place and wont slide around. Also don't forget about fully customizable sizes and boxes even can be adjusted for specific tools. Project was done about a year ago and I have spent 3-4 spools and you can get spool of PLA now for 10-15$ + electricity I think it puts us under 100$

Works with any Klipper 3d printer. Sovol SV08 runs on Klipper.

@@hobbyistnotesis it possible to install on head tool?

@@shahram677 There is no STL provided by manufacturer for stock SV08 toolhead if you find or make one you can fit it.

Thank you 🙏

This one: www.printables.com/model/809509-filtervzero-active-carbon-filter-for-voron-v0

Thanks!

Вы правы. Плата отлично работает и в других принтерах просто изначально целевая аудитория была владельцы Voron 0

@@hobbyistnotes думаю пойдет мне на эксперименты хорошо, уже заказал, правда сколько ехать будет еще. а то я все еще на марлине, в все вокруг массово клиппер хвалят, пора и мне перебраться. а так я и к ворону присматривался, что бы собрать, но все же взял старенький но актуальный гиперкуб

@@romanv951 С текущими алгоритмами и клипером можно заставить любой принтер печать хорошо если есть руки, напильник и желание. На сегодняшний день клипер с Mainsail стал очень хорош и учитывая растущее комьюнити он будет становиться еще лучше.

Thank you!

Thank you 🙏

You say add Jarvis 🤖?

@@hobbyistnotes yes

You just hair to late with this comment as I have successfully assembled second plate with H2 V2S Lite but with smaller heat block to test theory of smaller heat block being better than the stock one in terms of extruder leaking. I wish I have filmed assembly process and hope to spend more time for Part 2 soon.

For me sum of all containers turned out to be very close to be edge to edge of each drawer. I only have around ~25mm left on the right side of the drawer which turned out to be a perfect spot and size for my long screwdrivers.

Check here: github.com/bigtreetech/KNOMI/tree/master/KNOMI2/STL

@@acozad1 same process just pick knomi2 in ide device list.

There is nothing in title says we will install klipper, it clearly says "in Ender 3 with Klipper"

Thank you, there is so much more to improve... I wish I had 30h in my day.

That sucks, huge thanks for sharing your story. I know in some countries Orange Pi's are quite popular due to cheap price, didn't really expected that it would have such issues. Btw my initial guess was that CB2 is made based on Orange Pi as they have very similar specs, have you tried just flashing the CB2 image over there?

What exactly you mean "won’t let it go" ?

I am not fully sure what exactly you mean, if you interested in running RPI via UART you better watch the video guide by NERO 3D the link is in description.

If you in US it's very easy pick: Bambulabs P1S with AMS so far there is nothing better for starter and it worth every penny. In our print farm we have 12 of those and they work 24x7 with minimal amount of issues.

I have used H and everyone use H in enderwire kits.

Before I answer this comment, it's worth mentioning I haven't been paid by the company: - The thermistor is attached with a screw, but the heater cartridge attachment is still a joke. - By the feel, screws look like aluminum, so I can see how they easily break, but I personally haven't broken one yet, so not much to say here. - If you've ever assembled an extruder or gear assembly, you know we want little backlash between the gears to handle thermal expansion. I've checked two of those extruders, and they both have normal backlash. The reason why you hear clicking compared to other multi-gear extruders is usually due to one or more plastic gears that silence the whole assembly. You can solve the clicking by adding a little grease between the gears, which actually makes the extruder much quieter. I've done it myself; no explanation why BUQI hasn't applied it from the factory. - A leaking extruder is a very common issue with high-flow setups, and the only way to use it is to print very fast or at lower temps than usual. I think overall it can be mitigated a bit by using a lower-power heater cartridge; the 70-watt cartridge definitely contributes, but using a lower-power cartridge will drop flow rate. I have a similar issue with my high-flow Dragon; even Bambu has it. For instance, try and print small text with Bambu.

@@hobbyistnotes I think the gear backlash is excessive, common complaint. Makes it difficult to dial in retraction. My extruder is over 6 months old so perhaps they've improved it.

@@gptech2444 May be but on 2 of units I have it's the same as I would set for my Voron CW2 and I don't have problems with retractions there at all I think problems with retractions related to hotend, I am going to have some experiments and run it with other headblock when it will come from China and we will see. Hope I won't forget to post it ether here or make a short about it.

@@hobbyistnotes Look forward to the update.

@@gptech2444 The main reason why I think it's hotend is that lately I was playing a lot with high flow hotends and those I got are all leaky. It's very frustrating but when you really go fast it's not a huge problem. Bambu printers actually have leaky hotends too (I have 4 bambulabs P1S printers) and if you print something slow or lets say something like tiny text it's hard sometimes to clean those strings. With Bambulabs tho guys figured perfect balance between flow of the hotend, speed and power of the heater cartridge, assembly is very well tuned. Over all H2V2S Lite feels like guys rushed and haven't finished few things and what is most frustrating those are very simple things to tune.

Tricky request because there is no way to satisfy every printer and every motherboard as each of them have own pin-out. If you aren't sure how to wire this toolhead to existing printer just wire it exactly the same as "your" existing setup.

okay, thanks!

Also, don't know if you had a clicking problem on retraction on your h2, but for me the solution was to change my linear advance since it was too high, hope this helps!

When you flash original firmware from BTT GitHub repo does your device works?

@@hobbyistnotes Yes, if I flash the firmware from github via the web interface, everything works! but as soon as I build it myself without changing the source data, nothing works through Vs code

@@borys9549 I have feeling you forgot to pick proper KNOMI version in your editor.

Version v2

@@borys9549 Not even sure how to help you. What OS you use? Have you tried my firmware?

Yeah, I wish they would send me Revo version as I have ton of revo nozzles and even a HF one. I assume Revo version is more expensive due to E3D license. To be fair it's still a very nice extruder and I will make some modifications to hotend so it will be perfect assembly. May be will make YT short about it.

Glad it was helpful!

I don't use stacked boxes too much only on rarely used tools or if I have spare tools to store. So far since video was made it wasn't an issue for me at all.

I am not confident but those looks like JST SH connector to me, not sure about the size. I personally would try 1.0mm size, but it's just a guess.

It is and flow gains are smaller than I expected.

@@hobbyistnotes 😢

There are plenty stls around for those setups, it was full size voron toolhead. You don't have to overcomplicate, 1st move over Klipper and after that you can install something like: www.thingiverse.com/thing:5172583 - one of the best cheap options around.

The only TFT screen it works with is: BIGTREETECH TFT35 E3

@@hobbyistnotes yes that's what I have. A ender 3 pro running a micro Swiss all metal hot end , a btt skr mini v3 and the tft35. Currently in custom Marlin. Want to move over to klipper

@@ForwardEngineering There is just no way I am going back to Marlin, Klipper is so much better for all my use cases.

@@hobbyistnotes okay cool just wanted to confirm functionality. Is there any reconfiguration stuff I need to be worried about like e steps, bed leveling mesh, ???

There is a learning curve sometimes filled with frustration, but it’s worth it. Use klipper config from BTT github repo for the board you have and it’s 95% of the work with config done. Now klipper is well documented and a lot of info out there how to proceed, I would recommend you to watch several full guides before starting just to get familiar. Use latest Maisail now it’s the best and MainsailOS has all needed packages preinstalled. If you use RPI mainsail OS is presented in “special images” section of RPI Imager tool.

BTT Knomi, I have several videos about it on my channel.

I got those very long time ago from AliExpress, if you search for "usb-c connector" there is plenty of those coming out. Amazon also have plenty of those. Just look one with little PCB attached where you can solder D+ and D-

Something like this: www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805817657245.html

Based on my research(it can be wrong): USB logical signals are operate in range of 3.3v where SN65HVD1050DR signals can accept up to ~5v. Also UART from printers motherboard are feed in to serial port of RPI not the USB. SN65HVD1050 has CAN Bus-Fault Protection in range between -27 V to 40 V.

Tho there is always an opportunity to burn RPI in case your 24v EBB36 voltage wire goes in contact with any of the signal wires...

I do, as I used cheap Ender 3 motors, but I don't print much on low speed with this machine so it's almost unnoticeable.

@@hobbyistnotes thanks for info. i got a creality k1 and 3 pro is a backup printer. im trying to decide this mode is worth to upgrade or not. most of cost going to linear rails and probably not planning to upgrade stepper motors like yours. still researching

​@@ywsyildizI think in budget now you can do this mod very cheap I bet around 100-150$. I personally would do it again. You can run stock Ender 3 bed setup as me, it works perfect.

Good Luck.

@@hobbyistnotes Thanks

Thanks!

I used Random magnets and random wood screws from the kit I had... this enclosure long time gone so I don't even have opportunity to check.

@@hobbyistnotes Also, is the lack table rigid? Does it not move when the printer goes like 200 mm/s, etc,.

If your floor is leveled its pretty stable table, I used those for a while.

@@hobbyistnotes Can't wait to build!

Yeah... I heard that "reasoning" about 100 times and it still works for 100s of thousands of Ender 3s that were sold. 4 of my Ender 3s had factory wiring and I had 0 issues printing on them last 3 years. But to make you feel better about a week ago I have ordered proper crimps and it will be crimped, in the video I have mentioned it's a proof of concept and things will be changed down the road.

@@hobbyistnotesI have to agree with you I solder connectors on rc cars and we run some crazy amps and voltage through them and have never had an issue.

@@redline6871 His point is that screw in terminals and soldered multi stranded wires aren't the best mix due to solder between strands is slowly getting weaker and it weakens the connection between the wire and screw in terminal. It's kind of a legit point but in reality Creality uses this solution on ton of printers and I have seen only few issues related to such solution. Also when this point usually brought in electrical world people are talking about completely different connectors than what we have. I believe that as long as you know and accept the risk at the end you are the person who hold responsibility for your own house.

After trying CAN once I don't want to go back.... Yes it's a bit expensive but worth every penny.

This mod gave my Ender 3 second life, used to collect dust for a year but now it's becoming a test rig with fast swapable plates.

Thank you! 😄

Follow "My Printers configs" link there you will find an STL

@@hobbyistnotes I checked that repo in the link - I only see two umbilical attachment STL's I don't see bracket for the board

@@PaulHuckaby Ohh.. you talking about pcb spacer, here: github.com/hartk1213/MISC/blob/6e4f22c85e541eafab4471c52c59f51c7ac6b2b8/PCBs/Stealthburner_Toolhead_PCB/STLs/pcb_spacer.stl

@@hobbyistnotes Yep that is what I was after - Awesome thanks!

You can, I just used bigger original extruder motors cus had plans to print fast and I had them on hands.

​@@hobbyistnotesCan the original stepper print quickly?

@@bayunugrahasuparto9639 They are, most people running original motors with this mod. Also 17HS15-1504S1 motors are 10$ a piece even you find original being "slow" it's easy to replace.