What is the best finish for laser engraved slate tiles?
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- Опубліковано 28 бер 2022
- Today, I test out various finishes to see which gives the best results on slate tiles.
I tried various combinations of matt and gloss sprays, dedicated stone sealers, and a mix that I created myself by mixing 50% boiled linseed oil and 50% white spirits together.
I tested both before and after the engraving to see which results were best. I even scrubbed them with soapy water to see if that would degrade any of the finishes.
If you like what I am doing here, then please feel free to buy me a coffee!
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#Philscraftcorner #co2laser #Slates - Навчання та стиль
Thank you for taking time to test and show us and giving your personally tips
You are welcome. I hope the video helped :)
Thank you so much! I would have never thought about putting the finish on first! I definitely agree with the two you choose as best as well. This was truly helpful and straight to the point!
I'm glad you found the video helpful. Good luck with yours
Thank you for testing this out. I tried the Matte finish and it engraved perfectly. Appreciate the info!
I'm glad it worked well for you. If it wasn't for the cost. It would be my favourite finish
This was so in depth and helpful. Thank you.
Thank you, I'm glad you found the video helpful.
Fantastic, very useful, thanks phil!
I'm glad this helped you
Your video just popped up, I’m very glad it did as I just did my first two slate coasters. I sprayed with gloss after laser. I was very happy with the finish but I will not switch over to your solution. Great step by step video for a novice like myself to truly understand the difference.
I'm glad this helped you out so much. I hope you continue to get great results.
You can sand smooth any failed engravings but I personally don't like the smooth finish on the slates. It's great for testing settings though
Thanks alot phil. I will start using your mix.
That's great. I hope it works out for you. Just remember you really only need a tiny bit or you could lose some detail in the engraving.
Thank you, very informative!
Interesting video Phil thanks for sharing
Hope it helped out ☺️
Thank you for the video showing the before and after... I engrave then use Modge Podge... I'll try the before engraving method
Hmm. Midge Podge is a new one. I will have to see how that one goes
good vid cheers just started Laser engraving bit of a learning curve
There is a lot to learn. I hope this helped a little and don't forget to have fun
I see this video is a year old but i'm just getting into the craft.Still learning, trying to absorb as much as i can. Your video was very informative and well presented. Thank you for sharing.
Thank you. I'm glad you enjoyed it 😊
Just come across this vid and well done , I bought a d1 pro 20w and of course started with the coasters , I also do a lot of airbrush art work so what I’ve been doing is once the engraving has been done I then spray over with a 2k clear coat and it makes the graphics really pop and I’m buying it through the car paint suppliers in 1litre plus hardener. Months on the coasters still look like new and fully sealed and they don’t ever take on any stains , coffee rings etc.
Nice! I am glad you are getting great results.
Awesome video thank you
Thank you. I'm glad you enjoyed it 😊
Just tried your mix. You weren't wrong about how far it goes. I mixed up a "jam jar full" and dipped the tiny corner edge of a rag into the mix and it covered 2 coasters. Nice finish although my engraving needs work but I was encouraged by my first attempt.
Nice. I'm glad it's working out for you
stone finished looks good
It did look fairly good but it was a pain to apply
I use rustoleum clear coat before engraving. I wait till the next day to engrave and have very good results
thanks!
To start, I like the your finish before, and matt spray before. It might be the light but the bottom two on the right look bad.
Thanks
You are welcome
Newly subscribed. Good information for a noob like me. I recently discovered I can sand off mistakes with slate. A few minutes with a belt sander and the messed up engraving is good as new again, albeit with a smoother surface. The results are very different than raw unsanded and look quite good. Have you done any sanding prep before engraving on slate before? I plan to experiment with the process and see what looks I can add.
Thank you so much. I really appreciate the subscription. Sanding them smooth works well. But there is a ton of dust produced you can wet them down but again the slurry caused creates a pretty big mess.
I order my slates 150 at a time so the price for a new slate compared to the time taken to re finish. It just isn't worth it.
The finished result is pretty much the same as with a fresh slate but it has a smooth finish, which some people do not like.
Good points. But I'm a total noob who only just bought 4 coasters to play with. So rescuing mistakes is a HUGE deal for me. I have not even begun to make saleable products yet. Also, my workbench is outside so dust is not a problem for me
@@philscraftcorner
Trying your mixture looks good so far still experimenting mi noticed if you put the finish on after it just doesnt work anyway great advice ive only just started Laser engraving did everything with a router before
Remember, less is more
@@philscraftcorner still drying just gave it one caot should be ready tomorrow 👍👍
Coat
Have you tried a heat gun to dry your finish quicker than waiting for it to air dry? I use it a lot like when I apply multiple coats of tempera black paint on glass.
I could give it a go but generally I coat 50 or so at a time in the evening and then the next day they are ready. But plan ahead and start the next batch a couple of days before I run out of what I have ready
Quick question, one of the reasons to use coasters is to keep condensation from a cold drink from marking the surfaces that the drink is setting on. How do the finishes affect the natural absorption of the slate? Have you tried any testing for this? Just curious. I would like to try finishing my coasters to protect them but for the amount of effect it has and the extra cost, if it makes the coasters less usable then I am not sure it is worth it? However I do realize I am very new to this so I do not claim to fully understand everything I need to. Thanks for the video. You made a new subscriber.
Thank you so much for subscribing. The spray finishes resisted water except the engraved parts, those adsorbed as usual.
My finish is absorbed into the slate on the top few layers and as it's an oil finish it doesn't dry to resist water so still absorbs some into the slate
Great video. I'm curious if white spirits is the same as mineral spirits (also known as mineral turpentine)? Thanks.
They are usually interchangeable as a cleaner for oil based paints so I would say it would probably give similar results.
Do a small mix and test first though
@@philscraftcorner Thanks for the reply...small mix test is sound advice!
Hi Phil, Can you share the anchor that you have in the back ground, My husband would love one.
I cannot give this file away as it is from swastick design crafts. But all the details of where to get it are on this video. Thank you, ua-cam.com/video/79fBKWzEvKw/v-deo.html
Slate has a natural absorbency for moisture, which makes it a great choice for a coaster. Why would you want to seal it with an lacquer and remove the absorbency of the slate?
So, ceramic and glass coasters are not a good choice?
Just a quick question. Watching the video in my opinion the stone sealer worked well but you didn't seem to rate it, why? I use olive oil before and after and that seems to work OK. I will try the 50/50 mix. Also what is your laser and what settings? Great video.
The stone sealer worked ok. It had a more natural finish like it was almost raw slate. The contrast was not as strong and I had to apply 3 coats to get any kind of effect so time wise it was the worst one.
My machine is a Chinese 50w, I use 12% power at 275mm/s with a 2" lens
Hi. Thanks for the prompt reply. I'll give the 50/50 mix a go. It was me just being lazy thinking I could buy the sealer rather than making a mix. @@philscraftcorner
It also works out more expensive too.
I have a new method that helps get a more even coat. I dip the rag in the solution lightly and then I cover the rough edges and use the dry part of the rag to spread the bit that goes on the top to lightly coat the top.
It's much more consistent that way
Great video.
I really like the matt spray finish.
What is the matt soray called?
Mamy thanks
It's just matt spray varnish. You can get it from most hardware or DIY shops
@@philscraftcorner thankyou very much 👍
great video, thanks! bear in mind though that the results vary strongly according to how hard you go on the laser. I hammered the slates with my 10w diode with three passes at 20mm/s amd 90%. That does not result i. a whitish finish but more like a glittering golden finish, which will not take on oil…
I might have to see if I can replicate that effect on a co2
👍 might also depend on the slate’s origin and content of pyrite and other minerals. maybe i got a „glittery“ sort of slate.
There are some gold spots on these slates and I'm not quite sure what they are but they do give a bit of a cool effect
Sounds like you're running to slow/to much power. Try a speed test grid, I've noticed with my diode if I run high power slow speeds on slate it will yield your results. Wish I could attach a picture to better demonstrate.
I spray wd40 on mine, I use a sponge to rub it all in, and then i dry it with paper towel, then i engrave, works brilliantly
Sounds like a good one to test
@@philscraftcorner yup, I found if you don't dry it with the towel you get a shiny finish, so I always dry with a towel to elimate that problem (i dont like the shiny finish), when you put it next to one that hasn't been treated with wd40, the difference is like night and day
I'll definitely check it out
after applying wd40 and wife it with towel it doesnt smell wd40?
@@whenyourbored1212 only for a little bit, then it'll go away
Great video can you tell me what mixture ratio is for linseed oil and spirits
Thank you. The ratio is 1:1. It doesn't need to be exact. The reason for the white spirits is to help the linseed oil to dry quicker and not leave an oily finish.
I recommend letting them dry for at least 2-3 hours in a warm environment. Ideally overnight if you can. I do them in batches of 10-20 depending on how busy I am.
So your saying to precoat first? You think would be same for wooden coasters? Or any wood laser work ?
Great question, the answer is. It will definitely not work the same on wood. Every different type of wood engraves differently. I have not found one perfect solution for wood.
The best I have come up with is to run the laser out of focus, this gives a more even and darker engraving but much less detail.
Some people recommend a Borax and water solution but Borax is not available in the UK. That would also be a pre treatment though
Hi. I tried your finish, and a, that seems to be the best for me as well. Thank you.
However, I applied the finish in a thin layer with a micro fibre cloth yesterday on the slate coasters, waited 24 hours, and engraved them this morning. (300dpi, 100speed, 20power as usual)
The engraved/white part of the coasters seems to be not that smooth as on the other one. There are bits that looks like not engraved. (First image with your finish, second image with satin gloss finish)
Is there anything I have not done right?
Thank you. ❤️
I cannot add the images. Oops. 😬👍🧡
Hi. It seems like you have applied correctly and waited long enough. The only thing I can think of is that you might have too much power. That's usually what happens when I have too much power
trying to find white spirits here in NL is hard work lol, is it the same as turps or paint brush cleaning stuff?
I have substituted for acetone when I was desperate at one point. I would assume turps and brush cleaner will work too.
Hi Phil, have you tried your mixture on wood for engraving? If so does it work like the Norton idea?
Cheers
Alan.
It is not great for wood engraving. It is a bit better than plain wood but I have found a mix of baking soda and water to work better. I will be testing a few different solutions with that too in the future 😊
@@philscraftcorner I'm curious what the "Norton idea" is that Alan refers to and also curious what you mean by using baking soda and water for wood...I haven't come across this suggestion before so not certain of what application this is referring to. Thanks.
You don't really want to use the stone sealer. The hole point of slate tiles is they are porous and will absorb the little bit of condensation from a cold drink and dry out over time instead of letting the condensation bead up and roll off onto the surface they're trying to protect.
So glass and ceramic coasters are no good?
You mentioned that your second choice was matte varnish. Here in the states I can only find spray varnish that is really spar urethane. Is that the case over the pond or do you have spray varnish really available?
I'm not entirely sure what kind of things are readily available to you guys in the states. I had a quick look on Amazon (who won't show me much unless I put in a US address) but I found some matte acrylic spray so maybe something similar and possibly a bigger container/better price too.
a.co/d/93c33Q3
Is what you used in the test actually spray varnish or was it spar urethane?
@@philscraftcorner
@@jimhamilton2680 it was definitely spray varnish.
Just lost your reply. Over here I can buy spray lacquer but not spray varnish. Will try the lacquer later today. The coasters looked much better when I used a lot less of the 50/50 and dried much faster. THANKS.
I noticed at the beginning you said boiled linseed oil. Is that indeed what you do is boil the linseed oil before mixing it with the white spirits? I know both things are flammable and I want to ensure this is safe to do. TIA
No. Definitely do not boil either of these things. That was a mistake that I didn't catch to correct myself 🤦🏻♂️.
Boiled linseed and linseed are very similar. Boiled is a little thinner and dries quicker in bare application. I would go with just linseed oil if you can. If not then boiled linseed oil will work just fine.
Question, Used your mix to coat several coasters but 24 hours later they are still tacky. Thought you mentioned 12 hours dry time at least, but 24 hours would be better. No way can I engrave these coasters today without a problem. Thoughts on what could be wrong?
Either not enough white spirits, not well mixed but most likely too much solution. It's literally just a drop for a whole coaster
Damn u have a few questions about this. Let's say that slab was white what color would the laster etch in. And is it textured?
If this was white stone the engraving would not be very noticeable, as it would likely still come out a white colour.(check my video about engraving onto concrete)
These are slightly nextured but only a little noticeable you can't catch your fingernail on the edge or anything
Where do I find the decale?
Just finish coating a bunch of slate coasters with the 50/50 mix. Surprised how glossy they came out. Was expecting more of a matte finish and the it took over 2 days for them to dry. Maybe I was doing something wrong. ????
Possibly put a little too much on. They only need a drop spreading out on there.
Less is more in this case
Yes, did as you said and it sure looks like a lot less is better. Used a cotton swab to put solution on to coaster and then uses a dry cloth to spread it around. May I ask your technique?
Phil, I've just finished watching your video for the umpteen time. Something is bothering me. At the beginning you showed 3 coasters that you finished before engraving including using the stone sealer. The 1st coaster, on your left, you said was sprayed with a varnish. The can clearly says "clear lacquer" . ????
One was lacquer one said top coat. I have tried several brands over the years. All had a different description.
Although lacquer and varnish are a little different in composition the results have always been similar for me.
As for the 50/50 mix. I can only think that either the slates were pre finished or you have used too much. Mine never come out shiny when dry and only take 6-12 hours depending on how warm it is
Would you recommend any of these for a slate cheese board regarding being food safe? Thanks.
If you need it food safe I would leave it raw slate. It doesn't look as nice but there's minimal risk with food that way
@@philscraftcorner thanks.
Any time i put my finish on after, the image just disappears. I've tried matte and glossy finishes
You want to put the finish on first
Do you think the brand of boiled linseed matters? Your brand doesn’t seem to be available on US Amazon.
I don't think brands matter at all. Remember use the least amount to coat the slates as you can and remove any excess
I tried that mixture but the lineseed oil and spirits but even days later it was tacky to the feel. Matte finish is the best I’ve seen. Maybe I did it too thick
Possibly used a bit much. It's only 2-3 drops per coaster, it goes a long long way
@@philscraftcorner I was using a foam brush so it was like dripping like 10-20 drops and splashing so I’ll try again
It might be worth trying with a rag. I find it a bit easier to control. Foam brushes are great when you get a hang of them though
Hello , after the matte finish have you tried stacking four coasters on top of each other for a few days. I too coated with shellac and stacked after a few days I could see little feet prints on the finish. Looking for an alternative thanks
@@mc-is4xs I need to leave them a few days before stacking them on top of each other.
If you need to store them once dry I suggest alternating direction, place one feet down then the next feet up etc. That way you can avoid any prints on the surface
I mixed the 50/50 linseed-mineral spirits concoction, but after applying it to the slate it didn't dry, even after letting it sit for 2 days. The slate still looks wet and the surface is a bit sticky. Any suggestions?
You have used too much. You literally have the slate practically dry with the mix.
Generally I get a fairly decent amount, apply it to the sides first and then with a dry bit of the cloth spread the excess over the top.
It should look more matte than shiny at that point
Ah, okay; will try that. Thanks.
I think I understand the amount your talking about, but would appreciate if you could include a segment showing your technique in an upcoming video.
Keep up the good work!
@@philscraftcorner
I have been thinking about doing an updated video with the technique I now use. I have another 120 coasters arriving in a few days so I will definitely get a video up for it.
Do the varnishes have to be water based or does it not matter?
I would say, water based will work better. Oil based will soak in further and take longer to dry.
Very nice, where do you get your slate coasters from?
I'm currently getting my coasters from UK hip flasks. They have been great so far for me
@@philscraftcorner thank you, I've just checked them out, are the coasters branded on the back? The wooden hip flasks look quite interesting have you tried them before?
@samrix5793 I haven't tried the wooden ones, the slate ones are plain on the back which makes them perfect
Could this be done with a 10watt lazer .ie a higher power 100% at 100speed ?
This can be done with a 10watt laser. I don't recommend running at 100% power. Try sticking around 80 and slowing your speed down
@philscraftcorner OK, thanks for the fast reply.
Does the engraving still show up outside in the rain? eg: Being placed on a grave. Thanks
From what I can tell from tests, the image will fade with water on it but once dry the image will be clear again
@@philscraftcorner thank you for the respond, 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Any difference between raw and boiled linseed oil?
Yes. Pure linseed is much more concentrated and in general thicker. It may work if you dilute it enough but I haven't tested that out
what are you charging for a set of coaster? How many in that set?
I usually sell them at £5 each and give a little discount
where do you get the slate from
I get them from Poundland £1 for 2 or from UK hip flasks they are 33p each if bought in bulk (100 or more) but shipping is pretty costly making them roughly 65p each
Hi will this machine work for a business ?
I run a small business with it. It would depend on what capacity you want to run at
By watching your video I think the Matt sealer is the best. I think you shouldn't have skipped the Matt sealer after engraving, in order to give a complete panorama and let the viewers decide which look is better after all
Isn’t the whole point of a coaster to soak up the condensation from drinks to not get it on your table? If you seal them you loose that and the moisture runs off the coaster and ruins the table? Lol
If that's the case, why do people make ceramic and glass coasters?
Why you would put any finish on slate beyond me the whole point of slate coaster is they asorb moisture..then you ruin that by putting a coat on it...
I was wondering this very thing. The point of natural stone, aside from it's looks, is it's natiral absorbtion properties. Sealing it, takes this away. I'm confused why everyone wants to seal them. Am I missing something?
I’m also happy with result not putting anything on coasters and saves valuable prep time. I clean with isopropyl alcohol to get dust off then burn. I might try some mat varnish though
The idea is to get a brighter contrast image. I think many want the better looking engraving more than the natural absorption properties of slate@@IAmErnicus
@ManiacRacing lol, this was like 10 months ago.
Since then I now buy coaster that are pre treated, so it's a non issue, for me anyway. 99% of my customers love the contrast and couldn't care less about the absorption. Lol
good deal. Im a total noob so Im still learning which is why I found this video
@@lasersandbeyond
Interesting video, however that music track is very off putting.
Mick you're getting top notch assistance and advice for free. The sheer sense of entitlement you have to be complaining is astounding. Was it necessary to complain? Did that comment serve any purpose? You can internalise those things and not just be a whingebag.
Great examples but you never actually said what the product was that came in second. i would have liked to see the can, You talk to fast for me tounderstand what it waas
I preferred the matte spray varnish. Over the gloss. But apply it first