i have found that using a snub on my combo set up, causing less anchor sailing, but catches more wind to the side the snubber is on. over all a better anchoring experience, and if no windless you can use the rolling hitch pulled back to your wench in the cock pit to ease the anchor up. with little strain
Sorry sir for having to say this, you are 50% right on this rolling hitch. As a foreigner, I apologise for my poor English, but I would like to try to explain the error. The comparison of the rolling hitch with the clove hitch is fine, I appreciate that. Also, your are completely right with the numbers of turns around the Anchor line considering the original rolling hitch, but the order of the turns is not correct. For the correct rolling hitch you have to start with two round turns on the side where the load is, and after that you switch to the other side and finish the rolling hitch as you would do with a clove hitch (single half hitch). Recommendation: To add more security to the rolling hitch it's preferable to use more round turns at the beginning. Sometimes I use 3, 4 or 5 round turns, when I expect strong winds during anchoring. Btw: I like too the idea of using the prussik-knot for this application. Therefore I use a 60cm dyneema-sling from my climbing equipment. The prussik is by far easier to remember as the rolling hitch, I think. Another variation that I like to consider is the klemheist-knot. Also very secure and easy to tie for beginners.
I have an Island Packet 29 with combo chain/nylon rode. I experience the "clicking" sound you mentioned of the nylon rubbing in the roller groove (I call it a "thunk"). I kinda like the sound because in a hard blow, as long as I continue to hear the "thunk" sound when the boat swings that tells me the boat is still attached to the anchor. LOL. If I stop hearing the "thunk" sound......something is major wrong!
Thanks Carl. Funny thing. I just put mine on in a windy anchorage. I think I was setting it up just as you were posting your comment 😂 It gives me such peace of mind
I use a folded/doubled 25ft dock line with a prusik hitch attached to the chain or rode. I run it through the second bow roller so I don’t worry about abrasion from the toe rail. Seems to work well and easily so far.
Thank you for your good video, about the snubber. It is a clever solution. Please remember, that it will be a great advantage for you to AWOID the "anchorsailing" completely - you may set up an "anchorsail" as far aft in your boat as possible. Then you willl have far less chafe problems.
Thank you Anders. Good point. They’re called “riding sails” only problem is that on my boat I can’t really put one up back far enough. Ketches and especially yawls are perfect for this kind of thing.
Thank you for answer about riding sail. I have been “nerding” in this fenomen for years, and have found several methods that reduce or completely eliminate “anchorsailing”. 1: The reason is too much windage “up front” (and underwater body more aft) - so reducing at front and adding aft will help: move aft dinghy, surfboard, canopy or solar-panels and any small “riding sail” will help. 2: The ultimate test of “law of physics” is to turn the boat and tie anchor rode aft - then you will change all unbalance - and lie quiet - perfect to test on at very hot day, to get wind into the cabin. 3: Lay out an extra anchor in ”V” 60 -70 degrees angle - then you will be steady. “Extra anchor” don’t need much size and may have short scope. Eventually “hammerlock”. 4: Use a bridle from anchor rode to aft, so that you give the boat an angle to the wind of app. 45 deg. The boat will go to one side and keep steady at an angle. Wind pressure will be higher but constant, and anchor will NOT be wriggled from side to side. 5: The BOOM solution - use a boom or spar to make two bridles from the rode spread out and be tied midship - the boat now be anchored like a katamaran/trimaran with bridle and the load from anchor to both hulls. Your boat will lie SURPRISINGLY steady. 6: The hypothetical solution is to move the underwater area / lateral area up front, to reverse the physical forces windage in relation to underwater resistance - but who has a front daggerboard? - this would also work. I do NOT have a webpage for these explanations, but I’m working on it. This "anchor sailing" is very little understood - I think more information would be helpful to many sailors.
Thank you for the detailed demonstration here. I have a 25 ft powerboat and was concerned about strain on my windlass using combined rode. Thank you for this new knot and explanation behind it, I had the same concerns and wanted a backup when anchoring in the San Juan Islands!
So, on synthetic line I've not had so much luck with the Midshipman's Hitch. And, it seems you you have the ends backwards, the load is on what should be the bitter end. I've had more luck using Blake's Hitch. I got a 10 mm Dyneema climbing runner (sling), I use a Klemheist (rather than a Prussik) to bend it to the rode, then maybe a shackle or a carabiner to make attaching the snubber a quick job. Small diameter, does great holding onto the rode. Holds chain just fine, too.
It would be great to see a demonstration on using a combination rode through a windless, there’s not much video out there pertaining to this. My question is how does the transition work? Do you cleat the rode? Do you move the chain and rope on the gypsy while raising the anchor? Can the rope go through the gypsy?
If the boat is sailing on the anchor rode, would cocking the boat to one side solve two problems for you? I am thinking of Larry Pardee’s method of angling the boat off of his sea anchor with a snatch block with a line led aft. This would angle your boat to the wind, and lessen or prevent the boat sailing, and it would give you a fair lead from your chock for the leather protected snubber. It’s going to add windage though.
Yes I am familiar with that technique and it may well work if you want to go to the trouble of setting it up. I've never seen anyone doing it. Most people just accept that the boat will sail to the anchor, and like you say added windage.
I’m thinking you could loop the snubber around your roller (which would hold it centred on the roller rather than slipping side to side) . Then you could eliminate the noise and the chafing. Thoughts?
I just had this happen last weekend that I chafed through 2/3 strands of nylon rode on the anchor roller. Almost left $200 worth of new Rocka Vulcan anchor in 26 feet of 55 deg water. I also wonder if its worth doing one on both side to equalize the strain?
The main reason to use a snubber on a chain is to reduce the noise of the chain if is snatching and grinding on the gypsy . Placing one on a rope rode seems unnecessary , but I take your point that you can reduce chafe if your lead is not fair . But you could do this by simply wrapping something around the anchor rope in way of the fair lead or having a leather or plastic sleeve over the rode itself
In my case the snubber is the same diameter as the anchor rode but it is hollow single braid so it acts like a thinner line. Prussiks are usually smaller diameter. Either way if the knot slips add wraps
Hello Marco. I also have an ODay 322 and love it. I have a 22 lb Bruce plow anchor but during a hectic hurricane evacuation I put a 33 lb Bruce anchor on the bow. I’m wondering what pound Bruce you have? I want to put the 22 lb back on the bow as it is easier to hoist up by hand. Do you think 22 lb is sufficient?
I have always had a 22 lb Bruce and in 25 years with the 322 I never budged. Obviously the 33 will hold better but for most conditions I think it's overkill. The right amount of chain and scope is what's important. I found a chart from Bruce anchors that I remember seeing many years ago and it recommends 22 lb for 29'-32' in storm conditions. I can't attach the image here but I will try to PM you
Thank you very much. I wasn’t sure because I used a Danforth for years before that. A friend and I were also discussing. A 33 lb anchor is only 11 lbs more than 22 lb. A boat such as an Oday 322 is virtually 11,000 lbs. It must be some exponential system to make only 11 lbs difference able to secure such a larger vessel? We don’t know how that works. However, your answer gives me even more confidence in swapping out the 33 lb with the 22 lb Bruce.
@@bowiehamilton9888 use the rolling hitch back to your cockpit wench and drag the anchor line it, it wont matter what type of heavy anchor you got, you just may not be able to fit it in the roller
i have found that using a snub on my combo set up, causing less anchor sailing, but catches more wind to the side the snubber is on. over all a better anchoring experience, and if no windless you can use the rolling hitch pulled back to your wench in the cock pit to ease the anchor up. with little strain
Good points. I agree. Thanks for the comment
Sorry sir for having to say this, you are 50% right on this rolling hitch. As a foreigner, I apologise for my poor English, but I would like to try to explain the error.
The comparison of the rolling hitch with the clove hitch is fine, I appreciate that. Also, your are completely right with the numbers of turns around the Anchor line considering the original rolling hitch, but the order of the turns is not correct.
For the correct rolling hitch you have to start with two round turns on the side where the load is, and after that you switch to the other side and finish the rolling hitch as you would do with a clove hitch (single half hitch).
Recommendation:
To add more security to the rolling hitch it's preferable to use more round turns at the beginning. Sometimes I use 3, 4 or 5 round turns, when I expect strong winds during anchoring.
Btw: I like too the idea of using the prussik-knot for this application. Therefore I use a 60cm dyneema-sling from my climbing equipment. The prussik is by far easier to remember as the rolling hitch, I think.
Another variation that I like to consider is the klemheist-knot. Also very secure and easy to tie for beginners.
Thank you. Yes you are right. I too like the Prussik
I have an Island Packet 29 with combo chain/nylon rode. I experience the "clicking" sound you mentioned of the nylon rubbing in the roller groove (I call it a "thunk"). I kinda like the sound because in a hard blow, as long as I continue to hear the "thunk" sound when the boat swings that tells me the boat is still attached to the anchor. LOL. If I stop hearing the "thunk" sound......something is major wrong!
I hear you!
Thank you I have been looking for this exact solution for my boat. Very detailed explanation.
Thanks Carl. Funny thing. I just put mine on in a windy anchorage. I think I was setting it up just as you were posting your comment 😂
It gives me such peace of mind
I use a folded/doubled 25ft dock line with a prusik hitch attached to the chain or rode. I run it through the second bow roller so I don’t worry about abrasion from the toe rail. Seems to work well and easily so far.
Sounds great. Good thinking 🤔
Thank you for your good video, about the snubber. It is a clever solution.
Please remember, that it will be a great advantage for you to AWOID the "anchorsailing" completely - you may set up an "anchorsail" as far aft in your boat as possible.
Then you willl have far less chafe problems.
Thank you Anders. Good point. They’re called “riding sails” only problem is that on my boat I can’t really put one up back far enough. Ketches and especially yawls are perfect for this kind of thing.
Thank you for answer about riding sail.
I have been “nerding” in this fenomen for years, and have found several methods that reduce or completely eliminate “anchorsailing”.
1: The reason is too much windage “up front” (and underwater body more aft) - so reducing at front and adding aft will help: move aft dinghy, surfboard, canopy or solar-panels and any small “riding sail” will help.
2: The ultimate test of “law of physics” is to turn the boat and tie anchor rode aft - then you will change all unbalance - and lie quiet - perfect to test on at very hot day, to get wind into the cabin.
3: Lay out an extra anchor in ”V” 60 -70 degrees angle - then you will be steady. “Extra anchor” don’t need much size and may have short scope. Eventually “hammerlock”.
4: Use a bridle from anchor rode to aft, so that you give the boat an angle to the wind of app. 45 deg. The boat will go to one side and keep steady at an angle. Wind pressure will be higher but constant, and anchor will NOT be wriggled from side to side.
5: The BOOM solution - use a boom or spar to make two bridles from the rode spread out and be tied midship - the boat now be anchored like a katamaran/trimaran with bridle and the load from anchor to both hulls. Your boat will lie SURPRISINGLY steady.
6: The hypothetical solution is to move the underwater area / lateral area up front, to reverse the physical forces windage in relation to underwater resistance - but who has a front daggerboard? - this would also work.
I do NOT have a webpage for these explanations, but I’m working on it.
This "anchor sailing" is very little understood - I think more information would be helpful to many sailors.
@@andersskoleovergaard9313 Very good information. Thank you for taking the time to share it 🙏
Great video Marco, especially the explanation of the rolling hitch. This definitely help with the peace of mind while anchoring next season!
Thank you Peter. I'm delighted that you will sleep better going forward.
Thank you for the detailed demonstration here. I have a 25 ft powerboat and was concerned about strain on my windlass using combined rode. Thank you for this new knot and explanation behind it, I had the same concerns and wanted a backup when anchoring in the San Juan Islands!
Thank you for your comment. Glad the video helped you.
I always use the rolling hitch on my Trawler. Two lines on the anchor chain both with 4 wraps and they hold great and are very easy to unwrap.
That's great! Thanks for the comment
So, on synthetic line I've not had so much luck with the Midshipman's Hitch. And, it seems you you have the ends backwards, the load is on what should be the bitter end.
I've had more luck using Blake's Hitch.
I got a 10 mm Dyneema climbing runner (sling), I use a Klemheist (rather than a Prussik) to bend it to the rode, then maybe a shackle or a carabiner to make attaching the snubber a quick job. Small diameter, does great holding onto the rode. Holds chain just fine, too.
Those are all excellent points Kurt. Yes the hitch is backwards. Thanks for sharing
Awesome video Marco. I set up a snubber for my combination rode this summer and it worked great.
Thanks Colin. That's great to hear.
Another excellent, informative video thanks for posting.
Yes... great idea , and a sound sleep
Thank you Steve
Another great video. Thank you so much.
It would be great to see a demonstration on using a combination rode through a windless, there’s not much video out there pertaining to this. My question is how does the transition work? Do you cleat the rode? Do you move the chain and rope on the gypsy while raising the anchor? Can the rope go through the gypsy?
All good questions. I will look into it and get back to you.
Thanks, that is just what I need on my boat!
Thanks patmatte55. Happy to be of service.
Great setup. Even a land-lubber can now make a snubber. Thanks, Marco!
Thanks Cat's Paw! Keep up the good work!
If the boat is sailing on the anchor rode, would cocking the boat to one side solve two problems for you? I am thinking of Larry Pardee’s method of angling the boat off of his sea anchor with a snatch block with a line led aft. This would angle your boat to the wind, and lessen or prevent the boat sailing, and it would give you a fair lead from your chock for the leather protected snubber. It’s going to add windage though.
Yes I am familiar with that technique and it may well work if you want to go to the trouble of setting it up. I've never seen anyone doing it. Most people just accept that the boat will sail to the anchor, and like you say added windage.
I much prefer a Camel Hitch, with the snubber rope over the roller, with a pin in the roller to prevent snubber from jumping the roller.
Thanks for the comment. I will look into it.
Good idea to use the camel hitch. It works like a asymmetrical prussik with a half turn at the end. 👍
Thanks for sharing.
You’re welcome. My pleasure
I’m thinking you could loop the snubber around your roller (which would hold it centred on the roller rather than slipping side to side) . Then you could eliminate the noise and the chafing. Thoughts?
That could work, I'll look into it. Thanks for watching!
Good explanation
Thanks Deb 🙏
Marco what are the chances of an anchoring video? Deep/Shallow water techniques, different anchor types etc? Thank you
Great suggestion! I’ll see what I can do
Grate video, just discovered your channel ⛵⛵
Welcome aboard! Thanks for the support
I just had this happen last weekend that I chafed through 2/3 strands of nylon rode on the anchor roller. Almost left $200 worth of new Rocka Vulcan anchor in 26 feet of 55 deg water. I also wonder if its worth doing one on both side to equalize the strain?
Wow! Lucky. Good luck in the future. I have run the line as a bridle too
The main reason to use a snubber on a chain is to reduce the noise of the chain if is snatching and grinding on the gypsy .
Placing one on a rope rode seems unnecessary , but I take your point that you can reduce chafe if your lead is not fair . But you could do this by simply wrapping something around the anchor rope in way of the fair lead or having a leather or plastic sleeve over the rode itself
Thanks for the comment. Seems just as complicated to me to put chafing gear on the anchor rode. Six of one...
The reason to use a snubber is NOT to reduce noise. You have no clue what you're talking about.
uhhh seems pretty complicated on your end too. the snubber has a variety of uses other than chaffing or noise
Every time i have a rope and chain. I have some idiot in a powerboat cut or damage the rope. I now tie the spare anchor as weight to lower the rope
That works as a kellet or sentinel as well depending on how far down the rope you send it
I’m assuming the snubber line is same diameter as anchor rode? If one uses a Prussik do you need a smaller diameter line to have the prussik hold?
In my case the snubber is the same diameter as the anchor rode but it is hollow single braid so it acts like a thinner line. Prussiks are usually smaller diameter. Either way if the knot slips add wraps
Hello Marco. I also have an ODay 322 and love it. I have a 22 lb Bruce plow anchor but during a hectic hurricane evacuation I put a 33 lb Bruce anchor on the bow. I’m wondering what pound Bruce you have? I want to put the 22 lb back on the bow as it is easier to hoist up by hand. Do you think 22 lb is sufficient?
I have always had a 22 lb Bruce and in 25 years with the 322 I never budged. Obviously the 33 will hold better but for most conditions I think it's overkill. The right amount of chain and scope is what's important. I found a chart from Bruce anchors that I remember seeing many years ago and it recommends 22 lb for 29'-32' in storm conditions. I can't attach the image here but I will try to PM you
Thank you very much. I wasn’t sure because I used a Danforth for years before that. A friend and I were also discussing. A 33 lb anchor is only 11 lbs more than 22 lb. A boat such as an Oday 322 is virtually 11,000 lbs. It must be some exponential system to make only 11 lbs difference able to secure such a larger vessel? We don’t know how that works. However, your answer gives me even more confidence in swapping out the 33 lb with the 22 lb Bruce.
@@bowiehamilton9888 use the rolling hitch back to your cockpit wench and drag the anchor line it, it wont matter what type of heavy anchor you got, you just may not be able to fit it in the roller
Why don't you just round off the edges of the metal. Then they won't chafe the rope.
Good point but then I would have not had a reason to make the video 🤣
Thanks for watching