Winters coming!! HRV and Radiant floor preparation.
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- Опубліковано 10 жов 2023
- / neckofthewoods2020
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Did you check to make sure your pressure tank is not leaking internally? this is where you pressurize your system not by adding fluid. Question if you are losing pressure are you loosing fluid? you should never need to add fluid unless there is a leak somewhere I saw you talking about wood ceiling You should just bite the bullet and add furring strips. I recommend stappling up the finish wood as it will go into the tounge and give you an amazing amount of hold even with 3/4 in thick furring. No need to use construction adhesive as the wood is going to expand and contract (move) So you dont want it cracking from being held where it cannot move
Thinking about all of the mini spits you plan on installing makes me wonder why your radiant is not carrying the load It should be more than enough.. But that said.. you need to leave it run and not be turning it on and off. If this is not adequate you may need to install a buffer tank to even out the supply side. Your output and return Delta is way way to high.. So run your pump at the highest speed Actually what you may need to do is run a larger pump.
We're a new subscriber, the house looks great! Super impressed with the ICF build. I'm curious about the HRV energy consumption. The LifeBreath 267 is rated at 22-44 watts on the spec sheet, is your energy performance in a similar range? We are off-grid, so we have to take energy consumption in the winter in to account for appliances. If you have a tool to check the amp draw or the total watts while the HRV is on high, we'd really appreciate the feedback.
So far it’s to hard to tell. Summer the RV takes everything with the AC and winter the electric heaters. Since the HRV has been running I don’t see a huge swing from the summer or winter before. The only big issue is the Lifebreath is a huge POS!!! It never runs, runs 24/7 or runs correctly. I’m 99% sure it’s got a bad relay but they won’t warrently it without a service call and since i installed I’m not allowed to service or diagnose and a service call will cost more than the relay and the whole electric board!! So for now I’m almost running it manually when I’m in the house. Lifebreath as a company sucks!!!! But once we move in and stop the RV I’ll have a better idea! And right now it sucks. Summer electric is like $120 and winters like $270. Thanks for watching by the way!!!
Thanks so much for the info. Much appreciated! We will definitely avoid the Lifebreath brand.
@@bigskyoffgrid welcome!!
I know people who have icf full basements in Minnesota with only 2” of eps foam bored under the slab and it cooks them out of the basement I think something on your system isn’t correct your delta should only be 30° loss not 50°
Thanks that makes me feel better!!
A heating forum thinks it’s my water heater. while my pumps are fine for the runs, it’s not fine for the head loss of the heater plus the head loss of the runs. We all kinda agree the tanks not come off and getting replaced so up the sizes of the pumps as it’s cheaper and easy. Get the water going much faster. As for getting cooked out, I do feel that way in the winter. Last year at only 65, working down there is so hot and stuffy! That’s why this year I can’t wait for the HRV since it’ll be blowing in outside air that’s not 100% the same as inside air temps. They say only 80% of the heat is recovered. So instead of having 68* at the vents, I’ll probably see it much cooler and make it feel better. Do you happen to know what temp they keep it at? I’m going for 68 this winter.
They normally run there’s 66-68° witch makes it feel like 72-74ish
What btu size is your tankless?
@@randyanderson1983 yeah 66-68 definitely feels warm in ICF!! The tankless is 199,999 BTU.
4:31. 120 degree tubes you say, should be more like 170. If the boiler has an outdoor temperature sensor it should push 130° on a 50 degree day and likely max out at 170-180 when its close to freezing and below
I’ve never heard of a radiant system running that high. Radiator systems yes, but not radiant floor systems. The pumps I don’t think are allowed to go over 150 and the pipes could take it but the psi has to be never low!!
Agreed , I would still turn up the temp from 120 a bit. Your return temp should be 80-85. Turning your circular pump to it's max would help. The loops could be too long , there's a lot of factors. You shouldn't have to worry about air in the system as you have a air elimination device on top of the expansion tank.
Nothing fancy here re radiant heat- no annual system checks, and we just turn it on and off as needed.
Under slab foam is an interesting topic. I wonder if the folks who have 4 or more inches of insulation there think it ‘works.’
ive been researching and i think my pumps are undersized. not for the runs but for the tankless heaters restrictions. ive never turned it on at zero pressure to see what happends so maybe itd pressure up some but i dont think it will. at least not to 13psi. what pumps are you using?
i think it would. 53* is just really cold and an R10 i think sucks. since there is no thermal bridges it probably doesnt happen fast but i think is still an issue. an R20 would almost be impossible to ever transfer heat since even in the summer, the floors still 68 or something and the cold ground isnt cooling it more so.
Mate..honestly the amount of mistakes we make it’s not that bad, always a workaround …if it was me, just cut your losses, use IR heaters in the basement where you need them..and install an UFH wet system on the first floor upstairs, atleast that way you will be warm in your living room as heat from UFH pipes usually only warm around 2m above. Using the basement as a furnace wasn’t going to work tbh. Make the decision and go for it.
I had to look those terms up…so like switch the basement tubes to up stairs tubes? Originally that was the plan. Up and down radiant. We have a 3rd zone still on the controller. It’ll be hard but doable. That’s why I haven’t done it.
Then I was thinking radiators plus the mini splits also as install would be faster and easier. The mini splits will suck though below like 10° but radiators in each room would help.
Do IR’s draw a lot of power? Being ICF maybe not. I did know the basement would never work, had my hopes though with ICF. I don’t want to give up just yet on the basement. Some have stated the pumps are the issue because the tankless heater is not a boiler. But since pumps are cheaper and easier to install, we can force more water through the tankless.
I’m not an expert…but no matter what pump you use, you are heating the entire Planet below your and my feet…..even if you get the Titanic of pumps, do you think it will work? move on bro, on to the next problem 😬
you are loosing so much temp because you don't have flow, and you don't have flow because you are piping all your pumps thru the boiler that is very restrictive. you are not supposed to do that, you must rig a primary loop using a boiler circulation pump correctly sized and then hook all your zones to a secondary loop using a closely spaced tee or even better a low loss header (hydraulic separator). then your boiler will be able to put out a whole lot more BTUs.
Yes that’s what most have said. That’s why I doubled the pump sizes. A boilers just not in the cards. They run about $5000 and the cheap store ones I don’t think I’ll risk it for $2000-$2500 to have them break sooner rather than later. Everything else you said I have no idea who to run that. Have to look into it. As for the more BTU comment, if the water going out is 120-130 and the flow is very fast through the floor and through the pump, I’m not sure how I’m losing BTUs. Before it goes in the floor it’s hot and correct. When it comes out it’s cold. That’s seems like a floor problem. Not a boiler problem.