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Rolleiflex repair, servicing a Rolleiflex Automat TLR. Part 01
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- Опубліковано 4 вер 2024
- I serviced this older Rolleiflex Automat TLR camera some time back, but never got around to editing the videos. This camera had multiple problems, and I had to strip it right down to the chassis to deal with what I found.
Consumables used servicing camera bodies:
I use naphtha (cigarette lighter fluid) for cleaning metal parts. CRC Heavy Duty Lectra Clean for dried grease that the naphtha won’t dissolve. A generic wax and grease remover to soak mechanical parts prior to cleaning in an ultrasonic cleaner. Glass cleaned with normal domestic glass cleaner.
Parts are lubricated with Inox MX6 (a synthetic grease), Rocol Dry Molybdenum paste, MicroLubrol Helimax XP helicoid grease, graphite powder, or graphite grease as needed.
Leatherettes are glued back with Ados F2 adhesive.
Consumables used servicing shutter and lens assemblies:
Naphtha (cigarette lighter fluid), or occasionally CRC Heavy Duty Lectraclean. Lenses cleaned with normal domestic glass cleaner.
Parts are lubricated Rocol Dry Molybdenum paste, MicroLubrol Helimax XP helicoid grease, graphite powder, or graphite grease as needed.
I just discovered your videos in my initial research into restoring a slightly corroded TLR 2.8A. This video answered more questions on accessing the lenses than hours of research did. Looking forward to watching the rest of the series. Thanks for posting this.
A little personal input about removing the fake leather plastic vinyl.
I use a reflow heat gun, at about 150°C and going slowly feeling by touch the temperature of the vinyl.
This way you can easily remove slowly the vinyl.
I had once a old Yashika that had a hardened vinyl by it's age and was cracking, the heat made it ductile again just for the time to remove it without damaging it.
Thanks for the video !
This is a great series, thank you.
The sychro lever at the bottom right of the faceplate should also be removed to get the cover off - this is why you had difficulties with that corner. The lever comes off its spindle with the removal of the retaining screw and then the spindle stays connected to the shutter mechanism, with the faceplate sliding off over it (much like the centre of the flash port); it has a return spring attached to the underside of the lens board which probably happened to pop off as you were ratching the focus. I imagine this could be a PITA to reassemble if it's disturbed unwittingly, so removing the lever first avoids the potential issue of losing the spring/damaging the connecting lever and makes removing the faceplate easier.
Yes, that part was fun. Like a lot of things in life, things go much smoother if you already know what you need to do.
Thank you so so so much for this video. I can’t express enough how helpful this has been to me
Excellent video, thank you so much! This is invaluable.
Hi there! Just stumbled on this vid and was wondering if you could help me out.
I’ve just been gifted what seems to be a Rolleiflex T model 3. Looks to be in great condition however when I adjusted the aperture using the dial, the blades closed and now won’t open. The aperture dial itself moves but not the blades, so I assume it’s some old lubrication gone hard.
Would be very appreciative if you would be able tell me how simple of a fix this might be. Cheers!
Are you still doing camera repairs? Thanks
Not for you....only my own cameras.
@@ChrisSherlock Yer doing it for us all at this point. Videos like this is invaluable
Best way to keep track of parts is to put them each or a certain group like your washers in a plastic small zip bag and marking them where they go. I refurbish old 20s and 30s fans and this works well.
Smart man! You buy like a 100 pack and use once or with a pen you can erase with?
@@felixisme I put a small piece of masking tap on it and peal it off.