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How do you determine when to make a cut from the top and when to cut from the bottom? How do you prevent the log from pinching and getting your bar pinched in the tree like it did just before you cut the video on the maple? Yours is the first video I've ever watched on how to use a chainsaw so I wanna get a couple more buzzwords before I make my own video on how to use a chainsaw. Thanks for telling me about Humboldt, I'm gonna repeat that in my video. Cant wait to see how you do it on the 10 year review of your new saw after you have run 100 tanks of fuel through it. Be safe even if you have to find someone experienced to show you how.
250 is the best homeowner grade chainsaw ever made.. every tree service around south bama , uses a ms250 for a brush,/ ground saw. And the brush/ground saw is the saw that gets used and abused the most.. also it gets used more because of its size and weight. And ive seen guys still have 250s from 8-9 years ago. And they have been BEAT UP.
Love it when people compare to completely different level of products but very good demonstration of why spending a lil extra gets you a much better machine. Nice vid 👍🏼
i own a 250 and a buddy owns a 260. i used both to cut up a 20 inch poplar and the extra power in the 260 was noticeable. ive used my 250 pretty hard and it will handle just about anything with a sharp chain, and i would recommend it to anyone. if yu can afford a 260 though and are clearing land or cutting firewood, i think its a better opton. i found it created less fatigue because it cut through larger trees with less effort. great video!
Great vid. I have theMS 250 and love it - Also was a birthday gift from my wife, with a pair of saw pants. Great to see you start the saws like we all start them in real life instead of pretending you step on it on the ground to start!
I had a ms 170... it was a good saw, but It died about 6 years old. I bought a ms 250 and I still have it! It's around 8-9 years, but runs fantastic! With a sharp chain it will cut like a beast!! Very reliable for cutting firewood, but is a pain to start when it is flooded! But I love my Lil 2 stroke baby!!
@@robertstellato5172 Yes. The p/n for the appropriate 7-tooth sprocket is 1123 640 2002. The bar and chain I used are p/n's 3005 000 4813 and 3636 005 0055 respectively.
The 250 is a good saw. The 260’s/261’s are very easy to rebuild. The only parts that suck is if you have bottom end work or antivibe work. If it’s just a piston and cylinder it’s a fast operation to change on the pro saws. Even the aftermarket pistons and cylinders can be touched up/polished to run nicely and at a fraction of what a true Stihl one costs
@@nsatoday I've just been rebuilding a 250 today as it happens. The previous owner had run it for so long with a loose, and then cracked/disintegrating, exhaust that it had melted the main cradle, brake lever and engine cover/rear handle! He said it had just got "a bit noisy".. I forgot they were a clam shell engine, horrible design. I hope it doesn't have to come apart again any time soon.
@@buggs9950, it’s been a long time since I messed with a non pro Stihl or Husky but I do remember the non pro saws being a PITA to work on and the bearings tended to be lower quality
I popped the jug in mine within 2 years. Only did 9 cord. I gave it away after I rebuilt it. I will never buy a non pro saw again. Too much time to rebuild.
I have ms 260 and ms 025. I use them both, depending of the size of the tree. 260 is 10 years old and 025 even older but they both work just fine. Great saws. Here in Finland we use a bit shorter bars in generally. My 260 has a 15" and 025 a 13" bar. Anyway, thank you for a nice video.
I'm just a few minutes in and you are talking about the oiler adjustment and I wanted to mention that the size of the bar can also be a factor on the need to increase the bar oil adjustment. Longer bars need more oil than shorter bars. You can check it by revving it up while pointing the bar tip at something to check the oil is coming from the bar tip. I prefer cardboard to check the spray off the tip of the bar because it's easier to see. If you ever do put a 25inch bar on it, you will need to increase the bar oil so you don't over heat the bar burning it up. A bar that has turned blue along the side near the chain shows that it has been way over heated. But otherwise you are right, that pitchy trees often require the oiler to be turned up some. After starting it I could hear that your chain is a bit too tight. I hope you have a blast with your new saw. The ms261is a great little saw that can do any cutting most people need a saw for. It should last you a really long time too. Great video. 😎👍
One thing i do like about the 025, older 250s, even newer 250s, is how easy they are to work on. And how cheap they are. You could rebuild an entire 025 fir like 100 bucks. It would take a lot of money to rebuild a 261. And they are very complex saws
Good video, I like the comparison. I have had the MS 250 along side the MS 290 Great saws. Just bought a MS 391 with 25 inch bar. Haven't even started it yet. Love those Stihls
Just bought an ms180 for work at a Tree service. It’s cheap, light and should run forever as long as I keep the chain sharp. Thanks for the good content!
The main difference between pro level saws and "farm" saws is pro saws have metal crankcase and farm or mid-range saws have plastic crankcases. Which is fine just know that you should avoid rough treatment of those farm saws. Keep a very sharp chain and don't pry or pinch or yank on them. Also keep a proper chain tension at all times. Read your owners manual and do what it says and your saw experience will be much happier!
Thanks for the work, I have a Husky 440, its a bitch to start sometimes, sometimes it starts great the put it down and no start. Got the MS250, great saw, didn't use it for 2 months, fires right up. Love the 250, I feel that if I get into a tree the 250 cannot handle, I should not be there. thanks again
IMO MS261 Pro saw is the only saw to have if you could only have 1 saw for your entire life. its powerful and low weight so great for every day use for most folk. Yeah there are cheaper (but heavier) saws and more powerful saws with new fangled fuel injection and such, but they are both heavier and costlier. But if you had to live out your days on this earth but with but a single chainsaw it would be the MS261 as best of breed.
Buy once, cry once! My dad always told me that you will long forget the price of an expensive piece of gear but if you get something cheap you will remember it every time you use it. Words to live by. Check out his channel of you want some cool content. ua-cam.com/users/MattMolnar10
Me personally… I’m goin with a 461r as my “one and only”..way more power…way more bar options (up to 36”)…and lots of aftermarket support with goodies and such
Not sure if you did this off camera but its good practice to let the saw warm up before it's hammered down. The chain also seems a little tight. Good video! Nice drone footage
@@timidater4803 they don't take long to warm up enough to use, especially in the summer.. would be different if it had a forged piston, those really need to be slowly warmed up because they can expand faster than the cylinder.
I have the 250 and 390 the only time I use the 390 is way bigger dia. I can run my 250 seems like all day, On the other hand, 390 seems like three cuts I'm filling the gas tank. I've cut a ton with my 250. The only problem I have with it bar jam. Where the chain locks at the end. If I keep the end out of the tree. I'm fine. It could because I run yellow chain. Now you can get the super-rapid cut chains for the 250. Turns that little saw into a beast. .
4 months and 5 trees into my 362cm. Yes it’s been trouble free and a powerful saw. Maybe a little too heavy for all purpose work with a 25 inch bar. My comment is- if they are calling it a pro saw it should have the wrap handle, the large clutch cover and large dual dogs. I added the factory upgrade kit and some aftermarket dogs, and a WCS bark box and NOW I have a pro saw! Looking to get the lightweight Oregon bar next because it really is heavy for my raccoon arms.
Raccoon arms hahaha. I've never heard that but that is funny stuff. You're right thought, it should have a full wrap handle as an option at least. I am looking to upgrade my dogs soon.
@@iffykidmn8170 I get the whole low stump thing… but I love my full wraps so I can work from the same side of the tree and keep a good grip and not have to back bar
@@tjlovesrachelsame. Wish there was a full wrap option for the 261/2. Love it on my 462, and can still usually pull off low stump cuts due to the varied terrain around here.
I had a MS250 it was reliable I used it alot but man did it dog out bad. I no longer use a chainsaw near as much but my cheap Poland way out toques the MS250. I had to have a new carb and oiler put in my MS250. I could have bought a new Poland for the repair cost. I wish all chainsaws had adjustable oilers.
@@FranciscoLinera I was referring to engine displacement and weight. Even though the 261 is about 4.6cc larger and about 1 lb less in weight. the 261 is a professional saw and built to be worked hard. The 251 while still built to be tough, doesnt have that same professional level and therefore is definitely aimed at more occasional use (aka a homestead saw) Otherwise, when it comes to cutting times. The 261 of course does beat out the 251, but it's not a very wide gap like a 362 vs a 261 or something. But yeah. the 251 and 261 on paper look to be quite similar. Indeed there are a few standout gold stars that the 261 has over the 251 because it is a professional level saw (and you pay a hefty price difference for it too!)
Good review. Good luck with the saw. I’ve had both. Except mine was a 260. Hard to compare the two though. Same size weight class but. Different performance in longevity. But that 261 is a beauty. All the best.
Having used both residential and commercial grade equipment, I much prefer the commercial grade. I just wish that the commercial equipment didn’t cost about three times more. But I am generally happy with the residential grade Stihl blower and string trimmer that I have used.
My dealer instructed me to not fire-up the 261 as one does the older types. Just hold the 261 fixed (on the ground or between your knees) and pull with the other hand (so no downward push!).
I’m running today on a full chisel and 20” bar. My only complaint is the mtronic thing is a bit finicky. Like the manually adjusted carb on my 461 better.
The 261 is definitely a much more heavy duty saw, but you can buy 2 ms250’s for the price of one 261. The 250 when it’s on sale for $300 is the best value you can get
I bought the 261c, figured I would be useing it for many years so worth the extra coin. I have never been so glad to spend the extra money on something. I bought this for a back up to my 046 mag, almost have no use for the 046 anymore.
Make sure your not choking a warm saw. My old 026 you could choke hot would start right up not a problem. My 361 if you choke it warm you will flood it, then very hard to start.
I run the stilh 261c and a echo cs590 both with 20" bars and I can say the echo is more powerful and quieter . Both good saws but the echo is half the price and so far way less repairs . Just my experience.
Go with the STIHL. You cannot go wrong with a STIHL. It will still be working in 20 years! Husqvarna is a solid second place. Echo has come a long way with chainsaws, but professional loggers still mainly use the Big two brands.
I have an old 250 that is in the saw hospital. The throttle messed up and with my abilities I figured the guy running the saw shop will have it repaired while I think about it. That is the first repair I have needed out of 2 chain saws,1 pole saw, 2blowers and 4 weed eaters. All Stihl.
Great informative video. Well done. My friend is a low level logger/firewood guy only doing trees up to about 18-20 inches and he needs a new saw. He's using cheap Chinese off brand saws now and I want to get him a good quality long life semi-professional saw in about the $400-475 range. Most likely we'll be getting a Stihl since he has a decent dealer nearby. Your video was helpful but you didn't mention those horrible flip and turn gas and oil caps that Stihl came out with a few years ago. I understand you can get retrofit old style ones from Stihl now. Thanks. I subscribed and will check out all your other videos.
I recommend that your friend finds a pro level saw that is a few years old. The pro saws are just a lot better for heavier use and they have more power to weight and when you are logging or cutting firewood you will thank me. I do mention the caps in the video but I don't mention that they are bad because I have had a good experience with them. They function fine for me and I like that I can use them with my gloves on and they have a good click feel when they close. I would recommend that you friend gets a 1-2yr old 362 or 261. Either saw can be found for about $400-500 used and they will last a lifetime if maintained.
All of my stihls have the floppy caps,I like em. My ms310 is 15 years old,my ms441c is almost 12 years old,and my newer ms250 has them. I've never had any problems with them other than saw dust collecting around the oil fill cap. If ya dont wipe around it with a rag it's easy to get saw dust and chips in your oil or stuck to the cap.
Thanks Richard! I am excited to get a 16” bar on the 261 and see how it cuts. I had another person call it a wood scalpel haha. I tried to put the 250s 16” bar on it and it did t fit, the bars must not be interchangeable.
@@claysavage8047 Yeah they are on very different levels. The 261 is better in every way but you pay for it by about double the cost up front. If you are just messing around in your woods then the 250 is perfectly fine, if you are getting into logging or really serious work then the 261 is your best bet.
@@claysavage8047 I guess I didn't read the comment that you commented on. Yeah they are different somehow. The chain was about a inch short if I remember. I will do a video comparing the two as well as buy the proper bar and chain for the 261.
@@Jazzking22 yeah I have a 261cm (totally dig it) A buddy of mine has a 250 and a 271. I didn't realize they have diferent bar mounts. We buy rollomatic e bars with. 325 pitch off of the same shelf. That's why I was wondering what the difference in bar mount is.
Actually no it is absolutely in the Homeowner category right on their website (just checked). I can also tell you first hand, it is a homeowner class saw that isn't even in the same arena as the MS261 or a bigger MS361/461. The 250 is a great saw and fits about 75% of homeowners needs but it isn't a "Landowner" saw, which isn't even a classification that Stihl uses.
Interesting, I'd say it's a difference in regions and marketing. Here in Australia Stihl have 3 categories of Chainsaw. Homeowner, Landowner and Professional. In Aus the 250 sits in the Landowner range whereas the 260 is a Professional saw.
Just an opinion here, but sell the 250 and try to find a used 026/260/261 so that you can run the same chains and bars on both saws. I have an 024, 026, and an 036 and run 18" bars with 325 chain on all of them. I used to have an 025 until a "friend" dropped a tree limb on it. It wasn't a bad saw for the average home owner, but it just wasn't enough for heating with firewood. Having the same bar and chains makes it nice not having to keep track of which bar/chain goes with which saw. Not to mention that if a bar/chain gets pinched on your 362, you can quickly grab them off the other saw and put it right back to work. I rarely use my 024 any more, but it was okay for limbing. Would have been better with a shorter 16" bar, but it ran the 18". 026 gets used mainly for limbing and bucking. 036 gets used mainly for bucking and felling. If I need more than an 18" bar, I have an 064 with a 28" bar and 404 chain. Realistically, the way I have my 036 set up, it will keep up or out run the 064 so long as the 18" bar isn't buried in the wood. Even then, it doesn't lag far behind until you get up over 20" of oak, hickory, or locust, and it's not worth carrying around the heavy 064 for those 6 or 8 cuts where it might be faster. I do use the 064 for bucking when I have a stack of logs and can cut through 2 at a time, as well as for noodling large rounds in half so I can safely lift them up on the splitter.
@@nospam3409 The 024 super AV can run a 20 in. bar according to the owner's manual. It's over 47 cc. Nice and light, great power to weight ratio. A much sought after saw. Parts are still available. Manufactured in Germany and the U.S. in the 80's. It was considered a semi pro saw, and a price tag for the home owner. It was the wood boss of the time.
@@johnnellis3025 there's a difference between running, and running well. With a 20" bar, an 024 is going to be really slow. 18" was slow enough that I went and found a used 036 to go with mine after the first season. 16" bar is a much better choice for an 024. My 026 was my last addition to the tool set. It runs circles around my 024. It and the 036 do the bulk of my work.
@@nospam3409 Is your 024 an 024 super? A bit of a difference. About a1/2 h.p. That is alot for a small eng. The difference between an 024 super and an 026, is about 5 c.c. Or about 1/5 more h.p. I run an 18'' bar more than a 16''. I have bigger saws to go to, but my 024 is my go to saw. Bought new in the 80's. Can take down 30-36 in. trees all day. A bit slower, but a lot lighter.
I have what must be a newer 250 as it doesn't have captive nuts on the bar but an assembly similar to the fuel and oil caps (lift and turn) so there is no risk of losing parts. Mine also has the Easy Start feature which is great. My OFF position hasn't worked forever - I just choke it out but your comment about the contact coming loose at 5:06 told me that I should take a look inside and I fixed it. Thanks. I cut everything with this saw. I found it an odd exclusion that you didn't show the 2nd cut or the side after you knocked the piece out.
Look the new husky first! 440 -16 inch.. got the NEW dial pin side plate!!! game changer:NEver loosens up chain/except when chain stretches.. never moves/always tight.. unreal!
@theykilledthegiggler i ended up getting a makita 4300 for my 'littlesaw'. limbing and such. and i run a dewalt 20v for ladder cutting. its crazy how far battery powered saws have come in the last few years
Still is the best. Huskys sound snaper, but pound for pound, still ALWAYS! Out cuts them. I've had a few friends with Huskys and bench grinders, me with my stills and a hand file. Always smoked them year after year.
I was looking at the sm 250. But, I found a little used McCulloch Timber Bear in really great condition. Don't get me wrong...I know it weighs just a few ounces over 18 lbs., with a. 20" bar and chain. But, "MAX" won't be traveling far. It's built like a brickhouse and weighs like one too. I know, it was well taken care of and made to last, with proper maintenance. On the other hand, I like the ms 250, but would die to get a new ms 261, for it compactness and HALF THE WEIGHT of my cherished and adored TIMBER BEAR MAX...new subscriber, be careful the widow maker was trying to snag another woodsman...
I run a 2018 Husqvarna 455 rancher my brother-in-law who owns a tree service runs nothing but pro-level still saws and is constantly having to take them to the shop my 450 ride rancher that runs almost as often as hard as his has never had a problem whatsoever. I really can't wait till you start splitting bar tips now that it still has removed the grease hole. Just so everyone knows bearings are supposed to be greased not oiled.
Only complaints with my MS250 is the killswitch wire also comes out. I remedied that with some loctite. Only other thing is the air filter design. It does not seal the greatest.
How do tell how old your chainsaw is? I purchased a 250 model, as a homeowner with a small yard I wish it had the easy start. I would have been better to buy the 170 or 180 model for me. All my trees are now gone, pro tip do not plant them at the fence line in a tight neighborhood.
Grab the serial number and call the companies tech support, they will tell you or sometimes you can just google it to find serial ranges per production year. Bought an old used husky, and found it was from 1979 lol. Thing was an awesome first chainsaw.
You said you can use the bar from the MS250 on your MS261. I hope by now you realized you can not as the MS250 is a .325 pitch chain while the MS261 uses a 3/8 pitch chain. This affects the length of the drive lugs. Now, you might be able to swap the sprocket along with the bar along with the chain but by then it’s a lot of effort to run a chain with little teeth on a powerful saw.
261 is a great saw own one. 362 Is a Great saw for bucking up the bigger stuff I own one too. And last but NOT least my little MS180 IS the best limbing saw there is... That thing is a monster limbing saw. I had an 250 it was sold for the ms180. The weight is a HUGE difference. I found that the 250 was about the same weight as my 261 so it didnt fit in... 180 is a awesome saw and soooo light. I do have an old 036 that is a great saw to. I found it on Craiglist for 100 wont start type of deal. The fuel line was broken lol... That saw is Heavy but a BEAST. Blast though 22 inch pine like nothing.
@@Jazzking22 The only thing is the 180 may not be a 20 year still working like new type of saw. But for 200 220 who cares. if it lasts 4 5 years you got your money out of it. I just LOVE the weight of it. its sooo light. and NO it wont buck up 20 inch oak logs well.. But every tool has a purpose. That saw I love to fell smaller trees and limb with it. For that its awesome. Plenty of power for that type of work. If you have some big stuff you need to get a 60cc saw. My 261 is a good all around saw but it struggles with a slightly dull chain on Bigger stuff. where as the 60cc saw it can get it done just fine with a non razor sharp chain. Dull is dull but not every chain is razor sharp all the time.
Great vodeo...thanks. California has outlawed petrol less than 50cc saws as of Jan 1, 2024.. Thankful that I have the MS250. I usually find myself selecting it for the ease of handling and effectiveness on 45 acres of woodland. Thrifty with fuel as well. Tempting to get the MS261 except it has more power than I need. On your video it pulled a bit too hard when you were limbing.😮😮
To be honest, I grab my 261C at least 80% of the time over the last few years. It just runs so well and has been a great saw. It's not heavy and with a 16" bar it is very comfortable to operate.
I find that I have some trouble starting it after running it for a few minutes. Other times it fires right up? Not sure if its something I am doing but I am pretty sure I am starting it right.
@@medjoolmaker I haven't used the saw in a few weeks but It was running weird. It would start cold just fine but after running it for a few minutes then shutting it off and not starting it again for 5-10 minutes it would be hard if not impossible to start. I spoke to the Stihl rep and he said that they can flash the chip and that can sometimes stop the problem. When the saw is running well it is a beast, I think it may be the CM and not the regular corroborated saw that is the issue.
@@Jazzking22 thanks for feedback. holding off on new 261C purchase, skeptical of MTRONIC. Stihl dealers are assholes in my area and will not honor anything.
I run the 661 as my main saw, with a 25 and 36 inch bar and chain. I'm going to sell my 391 with a 20 inch bar and 2 chains, and I'm going to eventually get a 500i and an 881.
A buddy of mine bought the 500i and absolutely loves it but it is realllllyyy expensive. But I am a life long believer in the adage that "you get what you pay for". Be safe out there and thanks for watching.
You can’t swap a bar between the 261 and the 250. The 261 uses a big mouth bar and the 250 uses the small mouth bar,, like all Stihl saws in its family,the 021, 023, 025 , MS 230 and MS 250. The 261 has the 024,026,MS260 and 028in it’s family.
I still love it. It has loads of power and with a 16" bar and full chisel chain, it is a wood scalpel. I haven't experienced the hot start issues since I did the calibration back over a year ago. I think its a good saw for a "professional homeowner"!
I aquired one a lil bit ago. Guy dropped it off and didnt wanna pay the repair bill...so im gonna port it i think and see how she goes. Hopefully itll keep up with my ole' tried and true 026! If not ill just get rid of it...NOT 😂...ILL just make MORE room for it cause i never met a saw i didnt like 😉...BTW...if you run Stihl Ultra you WILL need the warranty! WORST oil out there...just saying. Preciate the video i enjoyed it!
I have chaps and full helmet. Neck guard isn't one of those things I would need. But when cutting around vines and old dead trees it actually makes a lot of sense as I demonstrated haha.
30+ years of pro timber felling, trimming, firewood cutting and a home owner saw will last forever if You dont abuse it and keep it maintained & clean. Some homeowner saws are heavier.
I would suggest that you aren't comparing apples to apples. I know you state your current saw is 6 years old, but I would bet if you compares a 6 year old MS260(1), you would see less features. Don't get me wrong the pro saws are always better, but the model year gap is giving you a lot of features that aren't really differences.
Really the new 250's aren't a lot different than the older ones. I am not really making the case that the 261 is better than the 250 just that they are different and used for different applications. There are things I didn't mention like the fact that the pro saw has metal crank case vs. plastic or that the sprockets are different, etc. I think both saws are great and when you are researching to buy one you need to think about your skill level, usage level, and budget before you go and buy one or the other. Thanks for your feedback and I hope you subscribe.
@@Jazzking22 I am not sure you have seen the new 251 saws, they "Look" exactly like the new pro saws. I agree there are many differences, and each saw has it's place, just saying it is and apples to oranges comparison. Kinda like comparing a 2020 Ford, to a 2014 Chevy, there is no comparison, the Chevy still wins LoL :-P
I check it often and typically keep it snug but I haven't noticed any issues with bar wear or over tempering. I typically can pull the chain down on the bottom about 3/8" and it doesn't seem too tight when I run it. It is kind of personal preference too but I will keep an eye on it. Thanks for watching and commenting.
@@Jazzking22 The reason he pointed this out is because the chain comes to a stop so quickly when you let off the throttle. The momentum from the chain should cause it to coast for about a second or so before it stops. It is a personal preference thing because some guys run them really loose on long bars, but that's definitely too tight. Being new, it will loosen up pretty quick, but I would recommend against running it that tight all the time. It's just going to stretch the chain faster, wear more on the drive sprocket or rim, and eat more HP instead of transferring it to the chain like it should. The tightest the chain should ever be will still allow you to easily pull the chain UP off the bar, but still keep the chain against, or almost against the bar on the bottom. I set my tension by lifting the chain in the middle of the bar until the drive links are around 3/4 of the way out of the bar groove, then snug the nuts while still lifting on the chain. Once they are snug, I let go of the chain and finish tightening the nuts. I do this with a new chain, and then retighten after each tank of fuel for the first few tanks. After it's worn in a little, I will let it run just a little bit looser.
Got the same two saws - MS261 w/18" & MS250 w/16". MS261 seems to be a gas hog compared my brother's comparable sized Husqvarna as well as the MS250. Outside of that, they're both great cutters with full chisel chains.
A couple of thoughts. I started with an 025. Best thing that ever happened was when a "friend" dropped a limb on it and busted the handle and fuel tank. I now run an 026 and an 036 most of the time. If you drop that bar down to a 16" or 18", and loosen the chain up 1/8 of a turn, you'll swear it's a completely different saw. If 80% of your cuts can be done with a 16" bar without having to make a second cut, then the 20" bar is just extra weight that you're carrying that's eating HP for no reason other than "it looks cooler". The amount of bar oil needed is only dependent upon the chain, and primarily on the length of the chain. What type of wood you're cutting has no impact. Having said that, on smaller saws it would be hard to turn them down so much that it causes a problem. The only thing you DON'T want to do is run out of bar oil first. No need to waste that much oil on a 20" bar. More of an issue on bigger saws running much longer bars. Grape vines are man killers, even on small trees. Any time the tree has vines in it, assume that it's not going to go the way you want it to. Actually, always assume the tree is going to try to kill you regardless of the size, then plan your cuts accordingly. When you have a tree or limb laying up in something, you can make a cut from the top, but don't go very far or you'll end up pinching the bar. That small tree wasn't going to be a problem, but its a bad habit to be in. Make a small cut from the top to keep it from splitting, then cut from the bottom up to avoid pinching the bar. On a bigger piece of wood, cut deeper and stick a wedge in it to keep the cut from closing up. Your notches look pretty deep. Looked like they go through almost half way. That's dangerous because it puts the hinge near the center of the tree and you end up cutting almost all of the way through the hinge before the tree starts to move. The hinge you left on that tree was VERY thin, and could have easily broken early allowing the base of the tree to kick out and go anywhere it wants. A smaller wedge puts the hinge farther from the center of the tree. This leaves more hinge wood which is safer. It also gives your wedges more leverage. Good job on the chaps! I'd recommend a helmet also to help protect your noggin from unexpected deadwood falling out of the tree when it starts moving. I'm really not sure how much the helmet would help in such a scenario, but I also like the face shield on them. Safety glasses are nice, but sometimes they want to fog up on you. The mesh face shield on a helmet doesn't have that issue ;) Not trying to run you down or anything. Just want to keep you safe so you can watch those boys beat each other up over the years ;)
Wow, thanks for the well thought out comment. I do have a helmet but I didn't wear it because it was supposed to be a quick video (bad excuse). I tend to get dumb when I go on video and don't slow down and think before I start cutting so I agree with you on how to cut smaller trees that are hung up and especially with vines connecting them. I usually use a standard notch when I drop a tree and try to use a steeper top cut and make my notch about 1/3 into the tree that way my back cut is controlled and I have plenty of meat to control the fall. Again, I need to slow down and do it right, especially when I am doing these videos and a lot of people see them that may not know what they are doing. Thanks again for the comment and I vow to do better next video.
@@Jazzking22 totally understand. I can see how doing the video would be a huge distraction. You did a really good job with the video itself which is more than I can say for most of the stuff on youtube. Just slow down, take a few breaths, and be careful 😉👍
I have a 261c. Its a good saw but when and if it starts running like crap its going to be the computer controlled fuel solenoid. As a homeowner you may not have to worry but any stihl with the c at the end of the numbers is at risk. I have replaced 10 of them in my saws
I did worry about the new electronic fuel management system but you have to try it before you really know. Thanks for watching and commenting. How many hours do you have on your 261C?
The "M" at the end, for Mtronic, is what you gotta be careful of. Stihl sells the regular 261C with normal carb but you have to ask the dealer to ship it in for you. If you need a 261 today, you gotta get the Mtronic in most cases, but if you can wait a while, you can still get the normal carbed one.
I put Elastostart start pull ropes on all my big saws, especially the thumpers. Their bigger handles also help. They cost less than $20 at your local Stihl dealer. The almost $20 for a six pack of Ultra is not worth it to me. I never buy it. I run an JASO FD certified two cycle oil in all of my saws and not that filthy burning Ultra. I run 50:1 in everything and add a good stabilizer to my gas. I like Echo Red Armor and Husqvarna XP, both FD certified oils. You need to watch the 261 if it is a Memtronic saw, because the will jump to 14,500 in a heartbeat. This is why you see a lot of blown up 261’these days. Saws just cannot turn that fast without problems. I limit my saws to 12,600-12,800. You cannot do that with a Memtronic saw.
Thank you everyone for the comments, views, and likes!!! Please remember to SUBSCRIBE!!! It would mean a lot and I promise I will have some great new content out soon! Thanks again!
How do you determine when to make a cut from the top and when to cut from the bottom? How do you prevent the log from pinching and getting your bar pinched in the tree like it did just before you cut the video on the maple? Yours is the first video I've ever watched on how to use a chainsaw so I wanna get a couple more buzzwords before I make my own video on how to use a chainsaw. Thanks for telling me about Humboldt, I'm gonna repeat that in my video. Cant wait to see how you do it on the 10 year review of your new saw after you have run 100 tanks of fuel through it. Be safe even if you have to find someone experienced to show you how.
250 is the best homeowner grade chainsaw ever made.. every tree service around south bama , uses a ms250 for a brush,/ ground saw. And the brush/ground saw is the saw that gets used and abused the most.. also it gets used more because of its size and weight. And ive seen guys still have 250s from 8-9 years ago. And they have been BEAT UP.
A testament to how rugged they are for just a "homeowners grade" saw. thanks for watching.
It‘s the 251 these days.
You guys dont have trees down there worth cutting do ya?
I've got an old 025 (ms250 predecessor) that was discontinued in 2002, and still runs like a champ! I got it for $100 because it needed bar studs
My wife and dad went to the dealer 2 months ago got my a 500i for Christmas I love her
DAMN! she must REALLY love you!!! Lol
Does she have any single sisters? 😂 You're my idol! I'm just waiting for someone to bring me one blowed up so I can have one 2!
Love it when people compare to completely different level of products but very good demonstration of why spending a lil extra gets you a much better machine. Nice vid 👍🏼
Two
i own a 250 and a buddy owns a 260. i used both to cut up a 20 inch poplar and the extra power in the 260 was noticeable. ive used my 250 pretty hard and it will handle just about anything with a sharp chain, and i would recommend it to anyone. if yu can afford a 260 though and are clearing land or cutting firewood, i think its a better opton. i found it created less fatigue because it cut through larger trees with less effort. great video!
Thanks, I have 2 Husky's that stopped running. Very frustrating.
Suggestion for all chainsaw owners.... ALWAYS let your saw warm up b4 running it hard. Save your engine in the long run
I say fire it up and let it rip! Just Kidding (kinda). I typically run them easy for a few minutes then don't go full bore for a minute or two.
Wife bought you a chainsaw? She's a keeper!
She’s definitely a keeper my girl bought me the MS 250 shaaoou!!
She also bought a drone to record it 🤫🤫🤫
Great vid. I have theMS 250 and love it - Also was a birthday gift from my wife, with a pair of saw pants. Great to see you start the saws like we all start them in real life instead of pretending you step on it on the ground to start!
I had a ms 170... it was a good saw, but It died about 6 years old. I bought a ms 250 and I still have it! It's around 8-9 years, but runs fantastic! With a sharp chain it will cut like a beast!! Very reliable for cutting firewood, but is a pain to start when it is flooded! But I love my Lil 2 stroke baby!!
I just bought an MS250 and put a 16" bar for 3/8" picco .050 chain on it. It cuts extremely well, and handles very nicely. Thanks for your review.
It’s a great all around saw for 90% of people. Thanks for the kind words.
Hey JML - did you have to change the sprocket for the 3/.8 PICCO chain?
@@robertstellato5172 Yes. The p/n for the appropriate 7-tooth sprocket is 1123 640 2002. The bar and chain I used are p/n's 3005 000 4813 and 3636 005 0055 respectively.
I love my 261c with the 16" bar on it. It's like a wood scalpel. I also have a 20" for when the need arises, but I prefer it with the 16".
Check out the new light 04 bars they came out with
It's better balanced with the 16 for sure.
I’m a proud owner of a sthil MS 261 CM and it’s amazing 🤩 and I have a sthil ms 250 and it’s a great saw
For the price the MS250 is a great saw. Also like my MS180 Mini-Boss for small trees and branches. Nice review.
I flogged an MS250 commercially for years and, yeah okay, it was just plain worn out afterwards but it's definitely the best value tool I ever bought.
The 250 is a good saw. The 260’s/261’s are very easy to rebuild. The only parts that suck is if you have bottom end work or antivibe work. If it’s just a piston and cylinder it’s a fast operation to change on the pro saws. Even the aftermarket pistons and cylinders can be touched up/polished to run nicely and at a fraction of what a true Stihl one costs
@@nsatoday I've just been rebuilding a 250 today as it happens. The previous owner had run it for so long with a loose, and then cracked/disintegrating, exhaust that it had melted the main cradle, brake lever and engine cover/rear handle! He said it had just got "a bit noisy"..
I forgot they were a clam shell engine, horrible design. I hope it doesn't have to come apart again any time soon.
@@buggs9950, it’s been a long time since I messed with a non pro Stihl or Husky but I do remember the non pro saws being a PITA to work on and the bearings tended to be lower quality
I popped the jug in mine within 2 years. Only did 9 cord. I gave it away after I rebuilt it. I will never buy a non pro saw again. Too much time to rebuild.
Nice review! Love that you incorporate your son into the process and not telling him that he might be interrupting you - great Father!
I have ms 260 and ms 025. I use them both, depending of the size of the tree. 260 is 10 years old and 025 even older but they both work just fine. Great saws. Here in Finland we use a bit shorter bars in generally. My 260 has a 15" and 025 a 13" bar. Anyway, thank you for a nice video.
Out of curiosity, why the shorter bar?
@@boston7704 Our trees are smaller...
@@markkuvuori4300 so in finland "tree" are smaller than other country?? ooo i get it,treessssss,,,
@@markkuvuori4300 Are the operators smaller as well? Run a longer bar and stand up and buck it is easier on the back.
You could get by with a much smaller saw using that small of a bar and chain.
When your boy was like, “ Because it’s longer and bigger.” You had that quick look at the camera like. Hell Ya! Raising them right.
Haha its the only way to raise them! Oddly enough boys gravitate to the bigger chainsaw haha.
I'm just a few minutes in and you are talking about the oiler adjustment and I wanted to mention that the size of the bar can also be a factor on the need to increase the bar oil adjustment. Longer bars need more oil than shorter bars. You can check it by revving it up while pointing the bar tip at something to check the oil is coming from the bar tip. I prefer cardboard to check the spray off the tip of the bar because it's easier to see. If you ever do put a 25inch bar on it, you will need to increase the bar oil so you don't over heat the bar burning it up. A bar that has turned blue along the side near the chain shows that it has been way over heated.
But otherwise you are right, that pitchy trees often require the oiler to be turned up some.
After starting it I could hear that your chain is a bit too tight.
I hope you have a blast with your new saw. The ms261is a great little saw that can do any cutting most people need a saw for. It should last you a really long time too.
Great video. 😎👍
the baffle for winter and summer use is to prevent carb icing in the winter, it has nothing to do with engine temperature
One thing i do like about the 025, older 250s, even newer 250s, is how easy they are to work on. And how cheap they are. You could rebuild an entire 025 fir like 100 bucks. It would take a lot of money to rebuild a 261. And they are very complex saws
The point of the Humboldt cut is to get the base of the tree to land first preventing the rest of the tree breaking when it lands.
Johnny Autoseed yes it does. Thanks for commenting.
My Stihl 025 is 32 years old and still runs like a champ.
Good video, I like the comparison. I have had the MS 250 along side the MS 290 Great saws. Just bought a MS 391 with 25 inch bar. Haven't even started it yet. Love those Stihls
If it doesn't oil enough, drill out the oil ports on the bar. I believe a 3/16 drill bit is what it takes.
Edit: *spelling correction
I am glad you call the attempted start in cold start, roll over. That is exactly what I call it.
Great video!!! 1. Awesome breakdown of the saws, their purposes. 2. Being a father to your son, even included him. Really good stuff man
Just bought an ms180 for work at a
Tree service. It’s cheap, light and should run forever as long as I keep the chain sharp. Thanks for the good content!
All I can say is that I bought a 026 back in 1990 and stihl runs great.
They make great saws! Thanks for watching
That's awesome! That saw is older than me! My 391 is only 5 years young 😎 haha
The old ones are great . Anything before 2008 made in the USA and 2011 made inEurope . I would rather buy a used saw than a new one .
Next time it hiccups, throw it away and get a new one! Yep straight from China.
The main difference between pro level saws and "farm" saws is pro saws have metal crankcase and farm or mid-range saws have plastic crankcases. Which is fine just know that you should avoid rough treatment of those farm saws. Keep a very sharp chain and don't pry or pinch or yank on them. Also keep a proper chain tension at all times. Read your owners manual and do what it says and your saw experience will be much happier!
Homeowner saws have modular engines that bolt into plastic chassis.
Thanks for the work, I have a Husky 440, its a bitch to start sometimes, sometimes it starts great the put it down and no start. Got the MS250, great saw, didn't use it for 2 months, fires right up. Love the 250, I feel that if I get into a tree the 250 cannot handle, I should not be there. thanks again
IMO MS261 Pro saw is the only saw to have if you could only have 1 saw for your entire life. its powerful and low weight so great for every day use for most folk. Yeah there are cheaper (but heavier) saws and more powerful saws with new fangled fuel injection and such, but they are both heavier and costlier. But if you had to live out your days on this earth but with but a single chainsaw it would be the MS261 as best of breed.
Buy once, cry once! My dad always told me that you will long forget the price of an expensive piece of gear but if you get something cheap you will remember it every time you use it. Words to live by. Check out his channel of you want some cool content. ua-cam.com/users/MattMolnar10
Me personally… I’m goin with a 461r as my “one and only”..way more power…way more bar options (up to 36”)…and lots of aftermarket support with goodies and such
Not sure if you did this off camera but its good practice to let the saw warm up before it's hammered down.
The chain also seems a little tight.
Good video! Nice drone footage
Thats what I thought!! should give it some light break in stuff before going full beans!! He doesent know!
@@timidater4803 they don't take long to warm up enough to use, especially in the summer.. would be different if it had a forged piston, those really need to be slowly warmed up because they can expand faster than the cylinder.
Really cool drone footage of the tree dropping! My favorite part was George’s review! 😍
Glad you liked it!!
I have the 250 and 390 the only time I use the 390 is way bigger dia. I can run my 250 seems like all day, On the other hand, 390 seems like three cuts I'm filling the gas tank. I've cut a ton with my 250. The only problem I have with it bar jam. Where the chain locks at the end. If I keep the end out of the tree. I'm fine. It could because I run yellow chain. Now you can get the super-rapid cut chains for the 250. Turns that little saw into a beast.
.
4 months and 5 trees into my 362cm. Yes it’s been trouble free and a powerful saw. Maybe a little too heavy for all purpose work with a 25 inch bar. My comment is- if they are calling it a pro saw it should have the wrap handle, the large clutch cover and large dual dogs. I added the factory upgrade kit and some aftermarket dogs, and a WCS bark box and NOW I have a pro saw! Looking to get the lightweight Oregon bar next because it really is heavy for my raccoon arms.
Raccoon arms hahaha. I've never heard that but that is funny stuff. You're right thought, it should have a full wrap handle as an option at least. I am looking to upgrade my dogs soon.
Full wrap handle can be a pain in the arse if needing to low stump cut to meet contract requirements. You see more full wrap handles out west.
@@iffykidmn8170 I get the whole low stump thing… but I love my full wraps so I can work from the same side of the tree and keep a good grip and not have to back bar
@@tjlovesrachelsame. Wish there was a full wrap option for the 261/2. Love it on my 462, and can still usually pull off low stump cuts due to the varied terrain around here.
I had a MS250 it was reliable I used it alot but man did it dog out bad. I no longer use a chainsaw near as much but my cheap Poland way out toques the MS250. I had to have a new carb and oiler put in my MS250. I could have bought a new Poland for the repair cost. I wish all chainsaws had adjustable oilers.
We run still ms291 and 391s at my work to cut our bci and lvls and we use them everyday at least 6 hours a day and we never have problems
I've got a MS 251c. Very Similar to the 261c... just a small step below in power. Great tools! Stihl makes excellent chainsaws!
Similar? Just because it uses gas, oil and has a bar and chain?
Not even close.
@@FranciscoLinera I was referring to engine displacement and weight. Even though the 261 is about 4.6cc larger and about 1 lb less in weight. the 261 is a professional saw and built to be worked hard. The 251 while still built to be tough, doesnt have that same professional level and therefore is definitely aimed at more occasional use (aka a homestead saw)
Otherwise, when it comes to cutting times. The 261 of course does beat out the 251, but it's not a very wide gap like a 362 vs a 261 or something.
But yeah. the 251 and 261 on paper look to be quite similar. Indeed there are a few standout gold stars that the 261 has over the 251 because it is a professional level saw (and you pay a hefty price difference for it too!)
Good review. Good luck with the saw. I’ve had both. Except mine was a 260. Hard to compare the two though. Same size weight class but. Different performance in longevity. But that 261 is a beauty. All the best.
Thanks, you too! Thanks for Watching!
Having used both residential and commercial grade equipment, I much prefer the commercial grade. I just wish that the commercial equipment didn’t cost about three times more. But I am generally happy with the residential grade Stihl blower and string trimmer that I have used.
You would be impressed by the higher end Stihl string trimmers. The straight shaft models are beasts.
@@Jazzking22 km 110r kombi system with a straight shaft is what I got… love it… and pro saw or no saw
My dealer instructed me to not fire-up the 261 as one does the older types.
Just hold the 261 fixed (on the ground or between your knees) and pull with the other hand (so no downward push!).
You aren't supposed to drop start any of the newer stihl saws because they have the easy pull start system on them and it will mess them up.
Jordan, my 261C came with an 18" bar and I bought a 20" light bar and I find it feels better balanced and feels lighter than with the 18" bar
I am going to go with a 16" bar and try that with a full chisel chain. I hear from a lot of people that it turns the saw into a "wood scalpel".
I’m running today on a full chisel and 20” bar. My only complaint is the mtronic thing is a bit finicky. Like the manually adjusted carb on my 461 better.
The 261 is definitely a much more heavy duty saw, but you can buy 2 ms250’s for the price of one 261. The 250 when it’s on sale for $300 is the best value you can get
I bought the 261c, figured I would be useing it for many years so worth the extra coin. I have never been so glad to spend the extra money on something. I bought this for a back up to my 046 mag, almost have no use for the 046 anymore.
I just got a 250 for $250
Make sure your not choking a warm saw. My old 026 you could choke hot would start right up not a problem. My 361 if you choke it warm you will flood it, then very hard to start.
I own the ms 230 since 2007, never let me down.
Great reviews. I’ve run echoes and have been considering going to Stihl. Your video gave some good insight.
I run the stilh 261c and a echo cs590 both with 20" bars and I can say the echo is more powerful and quieter . Both good saws but the echo is half the price and so far way less repairs . Just my experience.
Stihl you cannot go wrong with it
Go with the STIHL. You cannot go wrong with a STIHL. It will still be working in 20 years! Husqvarna is a solid second place. Echo has come a long way with chainsaws, but professional loggers still mainly use the Big two brands.
@@JmmMartin-lj5woalso 2 lbs heavier though. The cs590 is closer kin to an ms362 or ms311.
Great clip. I just bought me a ms 250. Hope it is as good as my old 025.
Nice! I still love running my 250. It’s a great saw for work around the house.
I have an old 250 that is in the saw hospital. The throttle messed up and with my abilities I figured the guy running the saw shop will have it repaired while I think about it.
That is the first repair I have needed out of 2 chain saws,1 pole saw, 2blowers and 4 weed eaters. All Stihl.
The pro grade is always going to have a metal handle wrap. If it’s got plastic it’s not a prograde saw
Great informative video. Well done. My friend is a low level logger/firewood guy only doing trees up to about 18-20 inches and he needs a new saw. He's using cheap Chinese off brand saws now and I want to get him a good quality long life semi-professional saw in about the $400-475 range. Most likely we'll be getting a Stihl since he has a decent dealer nearby. Your video was helpful but you didn't mention those horrible flip and turn gas and oil caps that Stihl came out with a few years ago. I understand you can get retrofit old style ones from Stihl now. Thanks. I subscribed and will check out all your other videos.
I recommend that your friend finds a pro level saw that is a few years old. The pro saws are just a lot better for heavier use and they have more power to weight and when you are logging or cutting firewood you will thank me. I do mention the caps in the video but I don't mention that they are bad because I have had a good experience with them. They function fine for me and I like that I can use them with my gloves on and they have a good click feel when they close. I would recommend that you friend gets a 1-2yr old 362 or 261. Either saw can be found for about $400-500 used and they will last a lifetime if maintained.
I'd recommend a older pro saw like 372xp or ms 360
All of my stihls have the floppy caps,I like em. My ms310 is 15 years old,my ms441c is almost 12 years old,and my newer ms250 has them. I've never had any problems with them other than saw dust collecting around the oil fill cap. If ya dont wipe around it with a rag it's easy to get saw dust and chips in your oil or stuck to the cap.
Exactly my reasoning too, longer and bigger. George knows what it's all about.
Love my 261 as well and have had it for a few weeks. I have a 20” bar on mine, highly recommended it! Just subscribed, good luck on your channel.
Thanks Richard! I am excited to get a 16” bar on the 261 and see how it cuts. I had another person call it a wood scalpel haha. I tried to put the 250s 16” bar on it and it did t fit, the bars must not be interchangeable.
@@Jazzking22 I wonder what is different about them.. I always thought they were the same mount.
@@claysavage8047 Yeah they are on very different levels. The 261 is better in every way but you pay for it by about double the cost up front. If you are just messing around in your woods then the 250 is perfectly fine, if you are getting into logging or really serious work then the 261 is your best bet.
@@claysavage8047 I guess I didn't read the comment that you commented on. Yeah they are different somehow. The chain was about a inch short if I remember. I will do a video comparing the two as well as buy the proper bar and chain for the 261.
@@Jazzking22 yeah I have a 261cm (totally dig it) A buddy of mine has a 250 and a 271. I didn't realize they have diferent bar mounts. We buy rollomatic e bars with. 325 pitch off of the same shelf. That's why I was wondering what the difference in bar mount is.
This video never gets old, love seeing the unseen fuck ups.
Yeah, I left it in to show how stupid we can all be. No matter how much we cut... you need to be careful.
The MS250 is actually from Stihl's Landowner range. It's bigger, tougher and more powerful than any saw in the Homeowner range.
Actually no it is absolutely in the Homeowner category right on their website (just checked). I can also tell you first hand, it is a homeowner class saw that isn't even in the same arena as the MS261 or a bigger MS361/461. The 250 is a great saw and fits about 75% of homeowners needs but it isn't a "Landowner" saw, which isn't even a classification that Stihl uses.
Interesting, I'd say it's a difference in regions and marketing. Here in Australia Stihl have 3 categories of Chainsaw. Homeowner, Landowner and Professional. In Aus the 250 sits in the Landowner range whereas the 260 is a Professional saw.
@@AJFixie Yeah. They do that in different regions I’ve heard. But here it’s a homeowner, then it steps up the the farm boss, then professional.
It's really great how you've indexed the content. Thanks!
Great fire wood saws so stand up and buck and don't forget to get the gullet
buckin billy ray be kind
It looks like you took care of the 250 is that the original bar good luck with the 260
Thanks from Quebec...very nice video...very professional
I have a ms 250c and I’m planning on getting the ms 362 CM so my homeowner saw will be my back up saw either way .
Just an opinion here, but sell the 250 and try to find a used 026/260/261 so that you can run the same chains and bars on both saws. I have an 024, 026, and an 036 and run 18" bars with 325 chain on all of them. I used to have an 025 until a "friend" dropped a tree limb on it. It wasn't a bad saw for the average home owner, but it just wasn't enough for heating with firewood. Having the same bar and chains makes it nice not having to keep track of which bar/chain goes with which saw. Not to mention that if a bar/chain gets pinched on your 362, you can quickly grab them off the other saw and put it right back to work. I rarely use my 024 any more, but it was okay for limbing. Would have been better with a shorter 16" bar, but it ran the 18". 026 gets used mainly for limbing and bucking. 036 gets used mainly for bucking and felling. If I need more than an 18" bar, I have an 064 with a 28" bar and 404 chain. Realistically, the way I have my 036 set up, it will keep up or out run the 064 so long as the 18" bar isn't buried in the wood. Even then, it doesn't lag far behind until you get up over 20" of oak, hickory, or locust, and it's not worth carrying around the heavy 064 for those 6 or 8 cuts where it might be faster. I do use the 064 for bucking when I have a stack of logs and can cut through 2 at a time, as well as for noodling large rounds in half so I can safely lift them up on the splitter.
@@nospam3409 The 024 super AV can run a 20 in. bar according to the owner's manual. It's over 47 cc. Nice and light, great power to weight ratio. A much sought after saw. Parts are still available. Manufactured in Germany and the U.S. in the 80's. It was considered a semi pro saw, and a price tag for the home owner. It was the wood boss of the time.
@@johnnellis3025 there's a difference between running, and running well. With a 20" bar, an 024 is going to be really slow. 18" was slow enough that I went and found a used 036 to go with mine after the first season. 16" bar is a much better choice for an 024. My 026 was my last addition to the tool set. It runs circles around my 024. It and the 036 do the bulk of my work.
@@nospam3409 Is your 024 an 024 super? A bit of a difference. About a1/2 h.p. That is alot for a small eng. The difference between an 024 super and an 026, is about 5 c.c. Or about 1/5 more h.p. I run an 18'' bar more than a 16''. I have bigger saws to go to, but my 024 is my go to saw. Bought new in the 80's. Can take down 30-36 in. trees all day. A bit slower, but a lot lighter.
@@johnnellis3025 mine is a standard 024. I've honestly never seen an 024 super. Too far back to remember.
Damn, that's a nice saw. I want one and I don't even have a need for it.
Similar to yourself, I have the smaller ms 230 and upgraded recently to the 241c. Both are very good chainsaws with excellent power to weight.
I have what must be a newer 250 as it doesn't have captive nuts on the bar but an assembly similar to the fuel and oil caps (lift and turn) so there is no risk of losing parts. Mine also has the Easy Start feature which is great. My OFF position hasn't worked forever - I just choke it out but your comment about the contact coming loose at 5:06 told me that I should take a look inside and I fixed it. Thanks. I cut everything with this saw. I found it an odd exclusion that you didn't show the 2nd cut or the side after you knocked the piece out.
You have a 251 not a 250
@@stevenbrown5210 it's a 250. It's labeled 250 - bought it new. It has some letter designations but 250.
The captive nuts aren't on the bar. They're on the cluth cover
last year i picked up a used 362. great power but now needing a smaller limbing saw. a 250 might be in my future. cheers from albany
You can get a good used 250 for under $200 and with a 16" bar and yellow chain, you will be limbing with the best of them and it won't wear you out.
Look the new husky first! 440 -16 inch.. got the NEW dial pin side plate!!! game changer:NEver loosens up chain/except when chain stretches.. never moves/always tight.. unreal!
@theykilledthegiggler i ended up getting a makita 4300 for my 'littlesaw'. limbing and such. and i run a dewalt 20v for ladder cutting. its crazy how far battery powered saws have come in the last few years
The 362 is a great limbing saw personally
Still is the best. Huskys sound snaper, but pound for pound, still ALWAYS! Out cuts them. I've had a few friends with Huskys and bench grinders, me with my stills and a hand file. Always smoked them year after year.
I was looking at the sm 250. But, I found a little used McCulloch Timber Bear in really great condition. Don't get me wrong...I know it weighs just a few ounces over 18 lbs., with a. 20" bar and chain. But, "MAX" won't be traveling far. It's built like a brickhouse and weighs like one too. I know, it was well taken care of and made to last, with proper maintenance. On the other hand, I like the ms 250, but would die to get a new ms 261, for it compactness and HALF THE WEIGHT of my cherished and adored TIMBER BEAR MAX...new subscriber, be careful the widow maker was trying to snag another woodsman...
Thanks and feel free to send me a shot of that saw. Sounds like a tank that was built to last!
I run a 2018 Husqvarna 455 rancher my brother-in-law who owns a tree service runs nothing but pro-level still saws and is constantly having to take them to the shop my 450 ride rancher that runs almost as often as hard as his has never had a problem whatsoever. I really can't wait till you start splitting bar tips now that it still has removed the grease hole. Just so everyone knows bearings are supposed to be greased not oiled.
cool that you didnt edit out the video. Great comparison. and a Molnar... a proud hungarian name.
Only complaints with my MS250 is the killswitch wire also comes out. I remedied that with some loctite. Only other thing is the air filter design. It does not seal the greatest.
How do tell how old your chainsaw is? I purchased a 250 model, as a homeowner with a small yard I wish it had the easy start. I would have been better to buy the 170 or 180 model for me. All my trees are now gone, pro tip do not plant them at the fence line in a tight neighborhood.
Grab the serial number and call the companies tech support, they will tell you or sometimes you can just google it to find serial ranges per production year. Bought an old used husky, and found it was from 1979 lol. Thing was an awesome first chainsaw.
You said you can use the bar from the MS250 on your MS261. I hope by now you realized you can not as the MS250 is a .325 pitch chain while the MS261 uses a 3/8 pitch chain. This affects the length of the drive lugs.
Now, you might be able to swap the sprocket along with the bar along with the chain but by then it’s a lot of effort to run a chain with little teeth on a powerful saw.
You are 100% correct. I figured this out later on. Thanks for the comment.
261 is a great saw own one. 362 Is a Great saw for bucking up the bigger stuff I own one too. And last but NOT least my little MS180 IS the best limbing saw there is... That thing is a monster limbing saw. I had an 250 it was sold for the ms180. The weight is a HUGE difference. I found that the 250 was about the same weight as my 261 so it didnt fit in... 180 is a awesome saw and soooo light. I do have an old 036 that is a great saw to. I found it on Craiglist for 100 wont start type of deal. The fuel line was broken lol... That saw is Heavy but a BEAST. Blast though 22 inch pine like nothing.
I keep hearing good things about the MS180. If I get my hands on one I will do a review and put it up against the 250. Thanks for commenting.
@@Jazzking22 The only thing is the 180 may not be a 20 year still working like new type of saw. But for 200 220 who cares. if it lasts 4 5 years you got your money out of it. I just LOVE the weight of it. its sooo light. and NO it wont buck up 20 inch oak logs well.. But every tool has a purpose. That saw I love to fell smaller trees and limb with it. For that its awesome. Plenty of power for that type of work. If you have some big stuff you need to get a 60cc saw. My 261 is a good all around saw but it struggles with a slightly dull chain on Bigger stuff. where as the 60cc saw it can get it done just fine with a non razor sharp chain. Dull is dull but not every chain is razor sharp all the time.
Great vodeo...thanks. California has outlawed petrol less than 50cc saws as of Jan 1, 2024.. Thankful that I have the MS250. I usually find myself selecting it for the ease of handling and effectiveness on 45 acres of woodland. Thrifty with fuel as well. Tempting to get the MS261 except it has more power than I need. On your video it pulled a bit too hard when you were limbing.😮😮
To be honest, I grab my 261C at least 80% of the time over the last few years. It just runs so well and has been a great saw. It's not heavy and with a 16" bar it is very comfortable to operate.
13 months 1422 trees 28,000kg, my ms261 is still going like it’s brand new
3:41 is all you guys need to know 😂
Haha I brought in the expert so there was no questioning the review.
261c is a great saw. You will pass it down to your kids one day. I love mine.
I find that I have some trouble starting it after running it for a few minutes. Other times it fires right up? Not sure if its something I am doing but I am pretty sure I am starting it right.
Jordan Molnar still
Having issues?
@@medjoolmaker I haven't used the saw in a few weeks but It was running weird. It would start cold just fine but after running it for a few minutes then shutting it off and not starting it again for 5-10 minutes it would be hard if not impossible to start. I spoke to the Stihl rep and he said that they can flash the chip and that can sometimes stop the problem. When the saw is running well it is a beast, I think it may be the CM and not the regular corroborated saw that is the issue.
@@Jazzking22 thanks for feedback. holding off on new 261C purchase, skeptical of MTRONIC. Stihl dealers are assholes in my area and will not honor anything.
@@medjoolmaker yeah sometimes the old technology just works better.
I run the 661 as my main saw, with a 25 and 36 inch bar and chain. I'm going to sell my 391 with a 20 inch bar and 2 chains, and I'm going to eventually get a 500i and an 881.
Kinda what I'm gonna be running with the 661 , but with a top handle for climbing.
A buddy of mine bought the 500i and absolutely loves it but it is realllllyyy expensive. But I am a life long believer in the adage that "you get what you pay for". Be safe out there and thanks for watching.
You need to top up oil EVERY TIME you top up the fuel..
I have a 290 farm boss for almost ten years. Sucker just won’t quit.
Love my 362
You can’t swap a bar between the 261 and the 250. The 261 uses a big mouth bar and the 250 uses the small mouth bar,, like all Stihl saws in its family,the 021, 023, 025 , MS 230 and MS 250. The 261 has the 024,026,MS260 and 028in it’s family.
Yes agreed. I have a second bar I purchased specifically for the 261
just bought a ms 661 36´´ bar with wrap handle
That's a Beast! Be safe out there.
I own the 250 and for around the house it is a fantastic saw.
2 years on since this video, what’s your opinion of the new saw now?
I still love it. It has loads of power and with a 16" bar and full chisel chain, it is a wood scalpel. I haven't experienced the hot start issues since I did the calibration back over a year ago. I think its a good saw for a "professional homeowner"!
@@Jazzking22 Damn! Proho! Act accordingly.
I aquired one a lil bit ago. Guy dropped it off and didnt wanna pay the repair bill...so im gonna port it i think and see how she goes. Hopefully itll keep up with my ole' tried and true 026! If not ill just get rid of it...NOT 😂...ILL just make MORE room for it cause i never met a saw i didnt like 😉...BTW...if you run Stihl Ultra you WILL need the warranty! WORST oil out there...just saying. Preciate the video i enjoyed it!
@@curtisbaker5407 good to know. What oil do you run?
@@Jazzking22 Amsoil Saber
I had a bearded G.I. Joe in the Mid 70's that looked just like you!
Haha that's awesome! Thanks for watching!
GOBLESS GOT MY FISRT SAW WHENT 4 THE 880 CUZ MADE ME FEEL GOODER BOUT MYSELF!!!!1
Did you calibrate the ms261? I’ve heard that it needs to be done.
Yeah I have a whole video on how to do it.
Light colored air filters are easier to tell when dirty and cleaned.
Best get yourself some chaps and some kind of neck guard in the future. And keep an eye out for them widow makers.
I have chaps and full helmet. Neck guard isn't one of those things I would need. But when cutting around vines and old dead trees it actually makes a lot of sense as I demonstrated haha.
Good teaching skills
30+ years of pro timber felling, trimming, firewood cutting and a home owner saw will last forever if You dont abuse it and keep it maintained & clean. Some homeowner saws are heavier.
Where is your hearing protection? Foam buds are not enough!!! Good job.
What difference does power to weight ratio make in a chain saw?? power only moves the chain not the saw.
The higher the power to weight ratio the more power you get in a lighter saw.
I would suggest that you aren't comparing apples to apples. I know you state your current saw is 6 years old, but I would bet if you compares a 6 year old MS260(1), you would see less features. Don't get me wrong the pro saws are always better, but the model year gap is giving you a lot of features that aren't really differences.
Really the new 250's aren't a lot different than the older ones. I am not really making the case that the 261 is better than the 250 just that they are different and used for different applications. There are things I didn't mention like the fact that the pro saw has metal crank case vs. plastic or that the sprockets are different, etc. I think both saws are great and when you are researching to buy one you need to think about your skill level, usage level, and budget before you go and buy one or the other. Thanks for your feedback and I hope you subscribe.
@@Jazzking22 I am not sure you have seen the new 251 saws, they "Look" exactly like the new pro saws. I agree there are many differences, and each saw has it's place, just saying it is and apples to oranges comparison. Kinda like comparing a 2020 Ford, to a 2014 Chevy, there is no comparison, the Chevy still wins LoL :-P
@@anthonyklein2944 Chevy wins!?? Now I know you're crazy and can't be trusted haha. Just loan me your brand new 250 and I will review it!
@@Jazzking22 ROTFLOL Oh I don't own homeowner saws, only the pro series. Be Safe!
@@anthonyklein2944 I would have guessed you would be an electric saw kind of guy haha. Be good.
sounds like you're running the chain a bit too tight.
I check it often and typically keep it snug but I haven't noticed any issues with bar wear or over tempering. I typically can pull the chain down on the bottom about 3/8" and it doesn't seem too tight when I run it. It is kind of personal preference too but I will keep an eye on it. Thanks for watching and commenting.
@@Jazzking22 The reason he pointed this out is because the chain comes to a stop so quickly when you let off the throttle. The momentum from the chain should cause it to coast for about a second or so before it stops. It is a personal preference thing because some guys run them really loose on long bars, but that's definitely too tight. Being new, it will loosen up pretty quick, but I would recommend against running it that tight all the time. It's just going to stretch the chain faster, wear more on the drive sprocket or rim, and eat more HP instead of transferring it to the chain like it should. The tightest the chain should ever be will still allow you to easily pull the chain UP off the bar, but still keep the chain against, or almost against the bar on the bottom. I set my tension by lifting the chain in the middle of the bar until the drive links are around 3/4 of the way out of the bar groove, then snug the nuts while still lifting on the chain. Once they are snug, I let go of the chain and finish tightening the nuts. I do this with a new chain, and then retighten after each tank of fuel for the first few tanks. After it's worn in a little, I will let it run just a little bit looser.
Got the same two saws - MS261 w/18" & MS250 w/16". MS261 seems to be a gas hog compared my brother's comparable sized Husqvarna as well as the MS250. Outside of that, they're both great cutters with full chisel chains.
Mid range Stihl saws generally run a wider chain compared to Husqvarnas. Takes more fuel to fling more chips.
Nice comparison video 👍🏼🇺🇸
Thank you!
What about 251. Had it a year no prob use carbide.luv it.
I have a 251 Wood Boss also. mine has been excellent and has the same power as ms 250.
A couple of thoughts.
I started with an 025. Best thing that ever happened was when a "friend" dropped a limb on it and busted the handle and fuel tank. I now run an 026 and an 036 most of the time. If you drop that bar down to a 16" or 18", and loosen the chain up 1/8 of a turn, you'll swear it's a completely different saw. If 80% of your cuts can be done with a 16" bar without having to make a second cut, then the 20" bar is just extra weight that you're carrying that's eating HP for no reason other than "it looks cooler".
The amount of bar oil needed is only dependent upon the chain, and primarily on the length of the chain. What type of wood you're cutting has no impact. Having said that, on smaller saws it would be hard to turn them down so much that it causes a problem. The only thing you DON'T want to do is run out of bar oil first. No need to waste that much oil on a 20" bar. More of an issue on bigger saws running much longer bars.
Grape vines are man killers, even on small trees. Any time the tree has vines in it, assume that it's not going to go the way you want it to. Actually, always assume the tree is going to try to kill you regardless of the size, then plan your cuts accordingly.
When you have a tree or limb laying up in something, you can make a cut from the top, but don't go very far or you'll end up pinching the bar. That small tree wasn't going to be a problem, but its a bad habit to be in. Make a small cut from the top to keep it from splitting, then cut from the bottom up to avoid pinching the bar. On a bigger piece of wood, cut deeper and stick a wedge in it to keep the cut from closing up.
Your notches look pretty deep. Looked like they go through almost half way. That's dangerous because it puts the hinge near the center of the tree and you end up cutting almost all of the way through the hinge before the tree starts to move. The hinge you left on that tree was VERY thin, and could have easily broken early allowing the base of the tree to kick out and go anywhere it wants. A smaller wedge puts the hinge farther from the center of the tree. This leaves more hinge wood which is safer. It also gives your wedges more leverage.
Good job on the chaps! I'd recommend a helmet also to help protect your noggin from unexpected deadwood falling out of the tree when it starts moving. I'm really not sure how much the helmet would help in such a scenario, but I also like the face shield on them. Safety glasses are nice, but sometimes they want to fog up on you. The mesh face shield on a helmet doesn't have that issue ;)
Not trying to run you down or anything. Just want to keep you safe so you can watch those boys beat each other up over the years ;)
Wow, thanks for the well thought out comment. I do have a helmet but I didn't wear it because it was supposed to be a quick video (bad excuse). I tend to get dumb when I go on video and don't slow down and think before I start cutting so I agree with you on how to cut smaller trees that are hung up and especially with vines connecting them. I usually use a standard notch when I drop a tree and try to use a steeper top cut and make my notch about 1/3 into the tree that way my back cut is controlled and I have plenty of meat to control the fall. Again, I need to slow down and do it right, especially when I am doing these videos and a lot of people see them that may not know what they are doing. Thanks again for the comment and I vow to do better next video.
@@Jazzking22 totally understand. I can see how doing the video would be a huge distraction. You did a really good job with the video itself which is more than I can say for most of the stuff on youtube. Just slow down, take a few breaths, and be careful 😉👍
I've never heard anyone say limbing with a shorter bar is easier... not on your back
I have a 261c. Its a good saw but when and if it starts running like crap its going to be the computer controlled fuel solenoid. As a homeowner you may not have to worry but any stihl with the c at the end of the numbers is at risk. I have replaced 10 of them in my saws
I did worry about the new electronic fuel management system but you have to try it before you really know. Thanks for watching and commenting. How many hours do you have on your 261C?
Probably around 300 cords. I hardly ever use it anymore since I replaced my 362c with the 500i. I mostly cut big wood that is way to big for the 261
The "M" at the end, for Mtronic, is what you gotta be careful of.
Stihl sells the regular 261C with normal carb but you have to ask the dealer to ship it in for you.
If you need a 261 today, you gotta get the Mtronic in most cases, but if you can wait a while, you can still get the normal carbed one.
I put Elastostart start pull ropes on all my big saws, especially the thumpers. Their bigger handles also help. They cost less than $20 at your local Stihl dealer. The almost $20 for a six pack of Ultra is not worth it to me. I never buy it. I run an JASO FD certified two cycle oil in all of my saws and not that filthy burning Ultra. I run 50:1 in everything and add a good stabilizer to my gas. I like Echo Red Armor and Husqvarna XP, both FD certified oils. You need to watch the 261 if it is a Memtronic saw, because the will jump to 14,500 in a heartbeat. This is why you see a lot of blown up 261’these days. Saws just cannot turn that fast without problems. I limit my saws to 12,600-12,800. You cannot do that with a Memtronic saw.
Really like em. Cheers