This was my go-to video for splitting my first hive. I have successfully used this technique four times now. I share this vide with new beekeepers whenever I can. Thanks Devan!
So as I understand the top box only had capped brood and the eggs where in the below box, the top box you would have to put a frame of eggs in it yes before splitting them so they can make there queen. Or as you say add a queen or queen cell for that top split.
Well David I'm going to tell you that I'm firm believer in years what you're trying to show everybody about single group Chambers because they work for me as well so keep up the good work this is old Rob again
What do you do if the queen is in the top box? Would you move the box with the queen in it onto the bottom board and take the queenless box and make the split?
Hi Devan, thanks for all your excellent videos. I’m an Aussie Beekeeper and have done most of my learning from you. I like the way you are focussed on the job to be done in each video and follow it through with precision and organisation. Keep the videos coming. With thanks Shayne Starkey
Great videos, Devan. Just something to be aware of with this method... My Russian hive has a queen that regularly takes laying breaks for 1-2 weeks. She'll just stop laying eggs and then when conditions change, she'll start up again. I have heard this is a characteristic of Russians. So this method may not work exactly as planned (with Russians) if you time your excluder placement during a laying break.
Yes, I've heard and seen this happen in colonies with a lot of russian genetics. 2 years ago when we had a big drought in southern Ontario, some of my own queen stopped laying in early august when there was no pollen or nectar coming in. Definitely something to watch for. Usually I'm making splits when the resources are pretty plentiful.
Devan Rawn I always thought it had to do with resources, too, but my Russian hive recently took a break for almost two weeks in the middle of Dandelion season. Very odd. She's laying now, but it seemed like a weird time to stop laying. Thanks for your videos.
Does this method require having to introduce a new queen to the top box you are taking away, seeing as you leave the queen and all eggs in one box and move the box with no queen or eggs?
Hi Deven, I just watched part 1 & part 2, which was posted in May, 2018. It is now Jan. 2019. What happened to part 3? This is like reading a book with the last pages ripped out. HELP !!! I’m going Crazy 🤪😬🤷🏼♂️
I just recently bought an active hive and didnt realize that there was no queen excluder, I watched this video and it helped a lot but can I exclude the queen and just make the top box a super?
Awesome. I absolutely like the way you do your videos with the progressions. I want to make some splits and towards the end of June make up some nucs but I’m torn on the queens. I’ve seen numerous ways to raise queens but for me I would only need 1 here or two there. I’m not sure what would be the best way to do that. If I grafted some larva, and ended up with 8 queens and only needed two , what would I do with the other 6. Your insight would be greatly appreciated.
Again a fantastic video. Really well put together and your teaching style is great. My only comment is that , if people are not putting in well mated queens as you advise, to make sure there are drones if there is a poor nectar flow or late in the season. Keep up the great work.
I plan on doing this method to one of my double deep hives and will be introducing a mated queen my question is when I pull the box that does not have the queen in it what’s the time frame on introducing the queen to it how does that all work?
hey devan, can you tell me the strength of your fence charger you use in joules? I would assume you have a solar charger. Is the charge strong enough to deter bears?
I like this method I have 10 frame double Deep both getting pretty packed out after I separate in four days do you think I could split the box with no queen Twice and add two Mated Queen’s
What would you have done if the queen was in the top box? Assuming you would have placed on the bottom board and took the bottom box as the split? Or remove the top box w/ queen and introduce new one on the original stand?
I'm my opinion (and others) your better to move queen box and put new nuc where mother colony was, that way you get foragers coming back to original location to keep up bee population since they won't have a laying queen for a month
In the past videos Devan you have explained why you use a single brood chamber but in following videos, you have demonstrated a split with 2 brood chambers. Do you use both or are you still sold on a single. Is the 2 brood hives for demonstration for those that have a two brood chambers?
Devan I’ve been looking at your one deep setup for brood, and for me as well it makes much more sense and should be easier for me. I am currently in 8 frame mediums. How would you make the transition from the mediums to the one deep?
I just meant making sure there is an appropriate number of frames containing brood and resources in each box. You may use this method only to find that the top box was 90% honey and there's no brood - not ideal for a new split.
How far away do you need to move the hive with no queen from the original hive, if you don't put a queen in straight away and let the new colony build some Queen cells?
Better to move queen box and put new nuc in spot of old one to gain returning foragers. Original queen box only needs moved over a few feet. Or take new nuc 3 miles to not loose foragers
I have a single deep hive with 1 super above and excluder. Would I just leave the super and the excluder on top and insert the hive body in between for this method? It doesn't seem like the super above would interfere. Once I put the new hive body in between, how long would you give the existing queen to build out the box before you start the split process?
You could just leave the super on above an excluder if you want. If you're turning a single into a double just for this method, I can't really tell you how long it will take. if there's lots of nice comb, a big bee population, and a honey flow then it will probably just be a couple of weeks until they've used that second box. but it depends on the condition of your hive. It's maybe not the best method if you're managing a single brood box now.
My goal is to have two colonies going into winter and right now I have one. I started with a nuc a month ago and already have wall to wall bees. I gave the queen extra frames and also put a super on. There's also a strong nectar flow and they are not interested in sugar feeding anymore. So my hope is after adding another deep hive that they not only want the space but will demonstrate the health that would allow for the split. I also have a fantastic queen source- Ruhl Beekeeping Supply who gets their queens from Oliveras in California. I'm interested in trying the Saskatraz type. I'm also toying with the idea to try the double nuc boxes like Michael Palmer uses in Vermont and overwinter some here.
I am not a beekeeper, nor have any plans to begin, but I found your videos very interesting and entertaining. It is awesome to see the process. Keep up the good work! mmm honey.
Hey, that's really cool, thanks. I want to be making more general interest videos around bees, getting away from the "how-to". I always wanted non-beekeepers to watch my videos. The same way I'm no astrophysicist, but I could listen to Neil DeGrasse-Tyson talk all day.
Hi Devin, Have you ever watched a Really Good “Who Dunnit” Movie & right when the guilty culprit is about to be named, ...your TV dies?, forever? ...🙀..., that’s how i’m feeling... HELP!!! I need a part 3 fix! Where are you? We Miss you!!
Wouldn't it be easier just to get one of the frames from the bottom box (one with eggs, of course), shake out all the bees and move it to the top box (swapping it)? Then they'd have eggs to raise a new queen from and you'd not have the problem with introducing a matted queen and so on... I mean, that colony seems strong (2 boxes full!), so why not split it keeping the genetic? Hope my question makes sense! :) Thanks for the videos.
Your question makes sense for sure, but it's just not the way I like to be a beekeeper. Introducing a mated queen shouldn't be considered a problem. Letting a split raise their own queen means no laying queen in the colony for 3-4 weeks. I don't have that kind of time in our summers if I expect to get any production out of my colonies. And there's a lot more to genetic selection than, "that colony seems strong".
Thanks for your answer, Devan. When I mentioned introducing a mated queen as a problem, I mean for the very little or amateur bee keeper, because many of us simply don't have any raised queen and buying one is not always that easy or fast - at least here in Europe it takes 10 to 14 days to get one in hands plus the time you'd have to wait until finding out if the colony will accept here. Hence my way of thinking, but I understand your problem with the weather, of course. Again, thanks for your kind answers and greatings!
Always very informative and I actually did this today feeling confident.... now let’s hope the new mated queens will be accepted when I insert her tomorrow. Continue your great work..... was wondering how many hives do you have.... and are you always working alone ? Thanks from Mirabel Quebec
Tnx! I like your methods and science behind them. For example, when you calculated why a single brood chamber is sufficient, it makes mathematical sense and not just an opinion. Keep up the great work!
Good technic split but something wrong quality of queen.when make split 5 day later you have to cut closet cups of Queens. Don't touch open cups of Queens because all of them 4 days eggs and take enough royal gley.
All was great except your mite treatment, usse a pint jar with a #8 hardwarescreen, 1 cup of bees 1/2 c. Of powdered sugar, pour sugar into jar of bees, roll jar enough to coat bees w sugar, Shake bee jar onto. A white dish for 1 min. , add a small amount of water,to dish, count mites, Release unharmed bees back into hive, presto... no dead bees this way!
This was my go-to video for splitting my first hive. I have successfully used this technique four times now. I share this vide with new beekeepers whenever I can. Thanks Devan!
And so where was your Queen? 4 days after excluder went in
You do a WONDERFUL job with your videos!
Looking forward to the third video. I've learned more from your channel than I have from all the beeks in my area.
So as I understand the top box only had capped brood and the eggs where in the below box, the top box you would have to put a frame of eggs in it yes before splitting them so they can make there queen. Or as you say add a queen or queen cell for that top split.
Well David I'm going to tell you that I'm firm believer in years what you're trying to show everybody about single group Chambers because they work for me as well so keep up the good work this is old Rob again
When do you plan to have part 3? ☺️
Me too.... Looking for #3
@@chipfriday8166 Me too Looking for 3
Don't think he ever made one.
What do you do if the queen is in the top box? Would you move the box with the queen in it onto the bottom board and take the queenless box and make the split?
Hi Devan, thanks for all your excellent videos. I’m an Aussie Beekeeper and have done most of my learning from you. I like the way you are focussed on the job to be done in each video and follow it through with precision and organisation. Keep the videos coming. With thanks Shayne Starkey
Great video. Couldn't you just split the 2 brood boxes and listen to see which one starts roaring to determine which box the queen is in?
Shit that's actually a good idea😯
Great video..especially the circles you drew.
Hello. When you mention going back after 4 days. Does that include the day you put the queen excluder on Or 4 days after that?
Great videos, Devan. Just something to be aware of with this method... My Russian hive has a queen that regularly takes laying breaks for 1-2 weeks. She'll just stop laying eggs and then when conditions change, she'll start up again. I have heard this is a characteristic of Russians. So this method may not work exactly as planned (with Russians) if you time your excluder placement during a laying break.
nice to see my favorite bees channels interact with each other.
Yes, I've heard and seen this happen in colonies with a lot of russian genetics. 2 years ago when we had a big drought in southern Ontario, some of my own queen stopped laying in early august when there was no pollen or nectar coming in. Definitely something to watch for. Usually I'm making splits when the resources are pretty plentiful.
My exact thoughts, two awesome channels!!!
Devan Rawn I always thought it had to do with resources, too, but my Russian hive recently took a break for almost two weeks in the middle of Dandelion season. Very odd. She's laying now, but it seemed like a weird time to stop laying. Thanks for your videos.
Does this method require having to introduce a new queen to the top box you are taking away, seeing as you leave the queen and all eggs in one box and move the box with no queen or eggs?
You still make this look so simple.
Thanks for the help.
Hi Deven,
I just watched part 1 & part 2, which was posted in May, 2018.
It is now Jan. 2019.
What happened to part 3?
This is like reading a book with the last pages ripped out.
HELP !!! I’m going Crazy 🤪😬🤷🏼♂️
Devan, how do I introduce a queen into the brood box that has no queen? Do I have to purchase one? Or is there a way to have them raise one?
Where is part three? Your videos are very useful.
Hey devan great vids just wondering...when should you stop doing splits June July Aug?
Looking forward to video 3. Thanks for making these!
I just recently bought an active hive and didnt realize that there was no queen excluder, I watched this video and it helped a lot but can I exclude the queen and just make the top box a super?
Devan , how long would you wait before you introduce a queen to the queen less colony . ?
Awesome. I absolutely like the way you do your videos with the progressions. I want to make some splits and towards the end of June make up some nucs but I’m torn on the queens. I’ve seen numerous ways to raise queens but for me I would only need 1 here or two there. I’m not sure what would be the best way to do that. If I grafted some larva, and ended up with 8 queens and only needed two , what would I do with the other 6. Your insight would be greatly appreciated.
Again a fantastic video. Really well put together and your teaching style is great. My only comment is that , if people are not putting in well mated queens as you advise, to make sure there are drones if there is a poor nectar flow or late in the season. Keep up the great work.
I plan on doing this method to one of my double deep hives and will be introducing a mated queen my question is when I pull the box that does not have the queen in it what’s the time frame on introducing the queen to it how does that all work?
hey devan, can you tell me the strength of your fence charger you use in joules? I would assume you have a solar charger. Is the charge strong enough to deter bears?
What time of the year was this done? Early spring, I'm assuming.
I like this method I have 10 frame double Deep both getting pretty packed out after I separate in four days do you think I could split the box with no queen Twice and add two Mated Queen’s
Goodday Devon. Part 3 splitting, is eagerly awaiting. Will there be one,lots of people want's to see it. Thank you very much. Cobus🐳
What would you have done if the queen was in the top box? Assuming you would have placed on the bottom board and took the bottom box as the split? Or remove the top box w/ queen and introduce new one on the original stand?
I would have just switched the boxes positions, yes. Left the queen in the original spot. But at that point it's kind of up to you.
I'm my opinion (and others) your better to move queen box and put new nuc where mother colony was, that way you get foragers coming back to original location to keep up bee population since they won't have a laying queen for a month
In the past videos Devan you have explained why you use a single brood chamber but in following videos, you have demonstrated a split with 2 brood chambers. Do you use both or are you still sold on a single. Is the 2 brood hives for demonstration for those that have a two brood chambers?
Nice video, Devan. How long do you leave the split queenless before introducing the mated queen?
Usually just overnight. I'll come back the next day and put in mated queens or a cell.
So are you adding the 3rd part ?
When do you recommend doing a split what month is best ?
So what about the last part? I'm impatiently waiting for it
Devan I’ve been looking at your one deep setup for brood, and for me as well it makes much more sense and should be easier for me. I am currently in 8 frame mediums. How would you make the transition from the mediums to the one deep?
you left the top entrance open. is it possible that the queen could move between boxes that way?
Thanks for the video, some questions?
What does shuffled frame mean?
And what you accomplish by doing it?
Thanks again
I just meant making sure there is an appropriate number of frames containing brood and resources in each box. You may use this method only to find that the top box was 90% honey and there's no brood - not ideal for a new split.
How far away do you need to move the hive with no queen from the original hive, if you don't put a queen in straight away and let the new colony build some Queen cells?
Better to move queen box and put new nuc in spot of old one to gain returning foragers. Original queen box only needs moved over a few feet. Or take new nuc 3 miles to not loose foragers
Another awesome video! Thanks for the knowledge and repository for when I need to make splits! Keep up the good work!
Won't the bees in the box you shifted go back to the old hive? Or, are they young bees so not flying yet? Thanks.
Old bees will fly back, the young bees won't.
how far away do you move the hives apart ? great vid
More than twice the radius of the forager bee, which is approximately 6 km or 3.7 miles.
I have a single deep hive with 1 super above and excluder. Would I just leave the super and the excluder on top and insert the hive body in between for this method? It doesn't seem like the super above would interfere. Once I put the new hive body in between, how long would you give the existing queen to build out the box before you start the split process?
You could just leave the super on above an excluder if you want. If you're turning a single into a double just for this method, I can't really tell you how long it will take. if there's lots of nice comb, a big bee population, and a honey flow then it will probably just be a couple of weeks until they've used that second box. but it depends on the condition of your hive. It's maybe not the best method if you're managing a single brood box now.
My goal is to have two colonies going into winter and right now I have one. I started with a nuc a month ago and already have wall to wall bees. I gave the queen extra frames and also put a super on. There's also a strong nectar flow and they are not interested in sugar feeding anymore. So my hope is after adding another deep hive that they not only want the space but will demonstrate the health that would allow for the split. I also have a fantastic queen source- Ruhl Beekeeping Supply who gets their queens from Oliveras in California. I'm interested in trying the Saskatraz type. I'm also toying with the idea to try the double nuc boxes like Michael Palmer uses in Vermont and overwinter some here.
Is it permissible to wait longer (5-6 days) to look for frames with eggs?
I really enjoy your videos, keep up the good work.
Do you make your own shallow top boxes with the bee entrance?
I am not a beekeeper, nor have any plans to begin, but I found your videos very interesting and entertaining. It is awesome to see the process. Keep up the good work! mmm honey.
Hey, that's really cool, thanks. I want to be making more general interest videos around bees, getting away from the "how-to". I always wanted non-beekeepers to watch my videos. The same way I'm no astrophysicist, but I could listen to Neil DeGrasse-Tyson talk all day.
No 3rd video of the splitting hive?????
Part 3 coming soon?
Where do get the queens from?
Hi Devin,
Have you ever watched a Really Good “Who Dunnit” Movie & right when the guilty culprit is about to be named, ...your TV dies?, forever?
...🙀..., that’s how i’m feeling...
HELP!!! I need a part 3 fix!
Where are you? We Miss you!!
That's a new for me, I never thought to split the hive that way, thanks for sharing
Wouldn't it be easier just to get one of the frames from the bottom box (one with eggs, of course), shake out all the bees and move it to the top box (swapping it)? Then they'd have eggs to raise a new queen from and you'd not have the problem with introducing a matted queen and so on... I mean, that colony seems strong (2 boxes full!), so why not split it keeping the genetic? Hope my question makes sense! :) Thanks for the videos.
Your question makes sense for sure, but it's just not the way I like to be a beekeeper.
Introducing a mated queen shouldn't be considered a problem. Letting a split raise their own queen means no laying queen in the colony for 3-4 weeks. I don't have that kind of time in our summers if I expect to get any production out of my colonies. And there's a lot more to genetic selection than, "that colony seems strong".
Thanks for your answer, Devan. When I mentioned introducing a mated queen as a problem, I mean for the very little or amateur bee keeper, because many of us simply don't have any raised queen and buying one is not always that easy or fast - at least here in Europe it takes 10 to 14 days to get one in hands plus the time you'd have to wait until finding out if the colony will accept here. Hence my way of thinking, but I understand your problem with the weather, of course. Again, thanks for your kind answers and greatings!
Where is the third part ?
Thank you for this Devan im new to beekeeping and will be getting my first hive in the new year here in the uk
You can actually save time(4 days of waiting) if you just have the patience in finding the queen then do the splitting.
What if the queen was already laying in BOTH brood boxes ?
That's why he waited 4 days after adding the excluder. Any eggs would be larva by then.
that's good, the main point is where is the queen now, next day he will add a queen to queenless box and that's it, eggs always good.
You need to check first if their is new eggs in any of frames, for each box
Do sell Queens. I’m ready to do some splits but your bees seem more mellow than mine
Always very informative and I actually did this today feeling confident.... now let’s hope the new mated queens will be accepted when I insert her tomorrow. Continue your great work..... was wondering how many hives do you have.... and are you always working alone ? Thanks from Mirabel Quebec
Devan, what do you use for smoker fuel?
Just softwood shavings. Pine mostly. Nothing special and I'm not strongly opinionated on the subject. Whatever works.
Tnx! I like your methods and science behind them. For example, when you calculated why a single brood chamber is sufficient, it makes mathematical sense and not just an opinion. Keep up the great work!
Excellent video. Very detailed. Thank you!
best channel so far.
Part 3 please
where is video 3?
Good technic split but something wrong quality of queen.when make split 5 day later you have to cut closet cups of Queens. Don't touch open cups of Queens because all of them 4 days eggs and take enough royal gley.
Miss your videos
Very good series, thank you so much, keep up the good work 👍
Park 3 is taking a while to fill. Isn't it? 🤣🤣
Yeah I searched for naught. Last video of any kind was July 23, 2019. Think we can safely assume we'll never see Part 3.
Part 3?
This is a good program you have.
Great vid! Man ur bees don’t mind smoke do they!? I smoke mine they start yelling and moving all over lol
part 3 plz
All was great except your mite treatment, usse a pint jar with a #8 hardwarescreen, 1 cup of bees
1/2 c. Of powdered sugar, pour sugar into jar of bees, roll jar enough to coat bees w sugar,
Shake bee jar onto. A white dish for 1 min. , add a small amount of water,to dish, count mites,
Release unharmed bees back into hive, presto... no dead bees this way!
wheres number 3 dawg
We want 3...we want 3...we want 3...
Again, Thanks to my on line mentor.
The ending is counterintuitive. I was expecting a walk away scenario as the conclusion. Your smoking method🤦♂️
Yo
🤗🤗🤗😎😎😎😍😍😍
Part 3?