Here in the UK I read similar reviews and it got me scared when I was about to start my kitchen build. Then I watched your earlier videos that you refer to in the above video and I got more confidence. I followed your instructions/process and have fitted tall cabinets and under worktop cabinets with no issues with the legs at all. Only thing I had to do was to take back one box of legs unused to the store. I figured i would buy an extra box just in case I broke a leg, but in following what you do that never happened - so i never used them. Thank you !
Sir i am very grateful for what you are doing. Im in the middle of IKEA kitchen assembly and your videos help me greatly in understanding what should i do and be aware of. I dont need to feel the stress of facing unknown. Thank you
Thanks. I broke a few legs when I tried out where exactly to install the sink cabinet. I had an idea, but I wanted to check it with the real thing before I installed it. And it was my first kitchen. So, I broke the legs, read the manual again, and learned from that. And then I bought some extra legs. They are very cheap. It's no problem to order a box or two extra just in case.
Thanks for letting us know. I know that the longer legs (4½" - 11 cm) are for the SEKTION kitchen system, which we have here in Canada and the USA. The shorter legs (8 cm) is not on the market here, as we have no use for those here. They are, as far as I know, only only for the METOD kitchen system. I'm not sure why both length of legs are on the market in Germany and the Netherlands, and probably other countries too.
@@kitchensbyrannes Thanks for your reply, I didn't know there's an entire kitchen system they sell in North America named SEKTION. Interesting. Here in Germany only the 11 cm legs have that name and are sold for the METOD cabinets. According to a forum post these legs were introduced around 2020 in Germany and 2 years earlier in NL. My guess would be that theres a gerenral trend towards higher counter tops as people are getting taller on average and many people suffer back problems on top of that. But take it with a grain of salt, I'm not expert by any means. Btw I'm about to install an IKEA kitchen soon and am very happy to have stumbled upon your channel. Thanks so much for the great tips you give! As for the legs I'm still thinking about getting some from Amazon, they are generally way cheaper, though need to be screwed. We'll see... Have a great day, mate!
Hate them for the pantry cabinets. How do they not break? Does everyone have an 11 foot ceiling to lift the 90 inch pantry cabinet up and swing it all around without those darn feet hitting the floor (or falling off). Recently installed an 80-inch pantry cabinet -- on a 2x4 base! Just slide her on... easy-peasy. Thanks for your insights Rannes - they have helped a lot with my kitchen install over the past year.
You're welcome. For any cabinets, except the 38x38" you don't add the legs before the cabinet is hanging in the rail. Yes, also the biggest 90" high one.
What about a peninsula where you have no rail? Also, the legs they had in 2001-2007 timeframe were much better. Still black plastic but they didn't fall out of the cabinet when you slid the cabinet sideways. I don't know when they switched to the crappier legs. This is another source of anger and frustration. They used to work fine and then IKEA tried to save half a cent per leg and made them worse.
Thank you for your comment. Well....there's no need for anger and frustration if you don't slide them, right? 🤗 Just do as granddad (that's me) shows you, and you'll be much happier 🤣
@@kitchensbyrannes I appreciate the video. I will use the technique for sure. Just wanted to point out that some cabinets don't work with the rail system without a hack. And sometimes even the rail-compatible cabinets can't use a rail because you have no wall behind them (like a peninsula).
I use the same legs for installing peninsulas and island, but yes, it takes a bit more effort not to break the legs. But absolutely possible. Did you check the island videos? 🤗
@@kitchensbyrannes the steel legs are perfect height for a toe kick drawer! I’ve never understood the toe kick facing. Just blocks you from cleaning underneath cabinets, which gets GROSS.
So only Norwegians are able to read and understand instructions? :D I don't get why you hassle with legs in the back, when installing the cabinet on a wall. If it is not a dry wall in which you missed every stud, this is not necessary.
It appears so...with the Norwegians. They have been known to call help desks for centuries. ua-cam.com/video/pQHX-SjgQvQ/v-deo.htmlsi=oXU9IhtTdfRXShO9 Legs. I don't see putting in the rear work as a hassle or more work. I see it as "job well done." I cannot find one single argument which makes sense to me for not doing it. Extra work and a small extra expense, is not stopping me from making sure my work is top notch. I know the screws I use for the rails are strong, I know that all of them are in a rail, but I cannot guarantee that all the viewers do it right, so when I recommend to use legs all over, I do it to make sure their kitchens are as good as possible, and can hold the weight of a heavy quartz counter top and a few full-body individuals having a snack while sitting on the top of the kitchen counters.
@@kitchensbyrannes I do find it kind of cumbersome to put legs in the back on 80cm cabinets or in the corners. That's why the rail system is so nice, because it is quick and easy. You don't have to crawl on the floor and rip out your arm do get to legs. And that's my point: Of course you can do it, if you are up to it. But it's not necessary and if you do the rail right you will not have any problems with the weight of anything. But you know that already ;) I installed a few ikea kitchens already. Gotta check out the rest of your videos and find out if you got some good tricks for me in the future. Thanks for your work! :)
That one cabinet....the 88x88 cm corner, it is a pain. No one have arms long enough to get to that leg in the corner. I have a video showing how, but you don't need to watch it 😉🤣 You're right about the rails. Do it right and the legs at the back becomes less important....but ....🤗
So, front legs FIRST, then tie together cabinets second, then 100% level all cabinets , and the last step is just to put the rear legs and just make them have contact the ground to avoid messing up your previous level ?
Good video. I'm not a big fan of the legs. I understand they cannot be shifted. But sometimes it happens accidentally especially if not on a rail (island). I do what you said and don't straddle legs between cabinets. I am curious if they made metal adjustable kitchen cabinet legs if people would buy those at the higher cost.
The legs just need to be better quality. Cheap plastic. Should be screwed too the cabinets. Not just inserted waiting to crack off. Just installed a kitchen for a client and honestly the legs drove me nuts. Sending them to my cabinet maker for the next reno.
Hi Mike. Thanks for your input. I disagree wholeheartedly however 😉 Did you watch the video in its entirety? And this one: ua-cam.com/video/y21bJrHf8gg/v-deo.htmlsi=-NRoeEiOmDxmnpdy They "fail" for a reason, but I don't see the problem IF one uses them with their limitations in mind. I wish the instructions would be better. The real problem is that the instructions show the legs must be mounted BEFORE the cabinet is hung onto the rail. If you do how I do it, no broken legs, no problems.
Do you have any tips on setting the proper height for the legs at the back of base cabinets in a galley kitchen layout, where hands can’t easily reach?
For a regular depth cabinet, you just lay on the floor and reach in. For the 38x38" (88x88 cm), check this: ua-cam.com/video/1scxJS1P-NY/v-deo.htmlsi=2462KOBPEI2CVBDb
Here in the UK I read similar reviews and it got me scared when I was about to start my kitchen build. Then I watched your earlier videos that you refer to in the above video and I got more confidence. I followed your instructions/process and have fitted tall cabinets and under worktop cabinets with no issues with the legs at all. Only thing I had to do was to take back one box of legs unused to the store. I figured i would buy an extra box just in case I broke a leg, but in following what you do that never happened - so i never used them. Thank you !
Excellent, Noel. If you know how to do it, and not do it, it's possible to get through a full installation without breaking a single leg.
Sir i am very grateful for what you are doing. Im in the middle of IKEA kitchen assembly and your videos help me greatly in understanding what should i do and be aware of. I dont need to feel the stress of facing unknown. Thank you
You are most welcome 🤗
I learned the hard way broke two on my corner cabinet. Now I know! Mark McKenna Tucson, AZ
Know you know for your next kitchen, Mark 😉
Thanks. I broke a few legs when I tried out where exactly to install the sink cabinet. I had an idea, but I wanted to check it with the real thing before I installed it. And it was my first kitchen. So, I broke the legs, read the manual again, and learned from that. And then I bought some extra legs. They are very cheap. It's no problem to order a box or two extra just in case.
Excellent!
The longer legs got introduced after the shorter ones were on the market some years already, which would explain why there are less reviews for them.
Thanks for letting us know.
I know that the longer legs (4½" - 11 cm) are for the SEKTION kitchen system, which we have here in Canada and the USA. The shorter legs (8 cm) is not on the market here, as we have no use for those here. They are, as far as I know, only only for the METOD kitchen system.
I'm not sure why both length of legs are on the market in Germany and the Netherlands, and probably other countries too.
@@kitchensbyrannes Thanks for your reply, I didn't know there's an entire kitchen system they sell in North America named SEKTION. Interesting. Here in Germany only the 11 cm legs have that name and are sold for the METOD cabinets.
According to a forum post these legs were introduced around 2020 in Germany and 2 years earlier in NL. My guess would be that theres a gerenral trend towards higher counter tops as people are getting taller on average and many people suffer back problems on top of that. But take it with a grain of salt, I'm not expert by any means.
Btw I'm about to install an IKEA kitchen soon and am very happy to have stumbled upon your channel. Thanks so much for the great tips you give!
As for the legs I'm still thinking about getting some from Amazon, they are generally way cheaper, though need to be screwed. We'll see... Have a great day, mate!
You too.
PS: if you have many base cabinets, attaching legs with screws is a pain 😲
Hate them for the pantry cabinets. How do they not break? Does everyone have an 11 foot ceiling to lift the 90 inch pantry cabinet up and swing it all around without those darn feet hitting the floor (or falling off).
Recently installed an 80-inch pantry cabinet -- on a 2x4 base! Just slide her on... easy-peasy.
Thanks for your insights Rannes - they have helped a lot with my kitchen install over the past year.
You're welcome.
For any cabinets, except the 38x38" you don't add the legs before the cabinet is hanging in the rail. Yes, also the biggest 90" high one.
What about a peninsula where you have no rail? Also, the legs they had in 2001-2007 timeframe were much better. Still black plastic but they didn't fall out of the cabinet when you slid the cabinet sideways. I don't know when they switched to the crappier legs. This is another source of anger and frustration. They used to work fine and then IKEA tried to save half a cent per leg and made them worse.
Thank you for your comment.
Well....there's no need for anger and frustration if you don't slide them, right? 🤗
Just do as granddad (that's me) shows you, and you'll be much happier 🤣
@@kitchensbyrannes I appreciate the video. I will use the technique for sure. Just wanted to point out that some cabinets don't work with the rail system without a hack. And sometimes even the rail-compatible cabinets can't use a rail because you have no wall behind them (like a peninsula).
I use the same legs for installing peninsulas and island, but yes, it takes a bit more effort not to break the legs. But absolutely possible.
Did you check the island videos?
🤗
They have steel legs too. Just get those.
They don't work with the toekicks, and as I show in the video, the plastic legs are good. Very good 👍
@@kitchensbyrannes the steel legs are perfect height for a toe kick drawer!
I’ve never understood the toe kick facing. Just blocks you from cleaning underneath cabinets, which gets GROSS.
Around here, most kitchens I install have no flooring under the cabinets 😱
@@kitchensbyrannes WHAT??
I know.....I kid you not
So only Norwegians are able to read and understand instructions? :D I don't get why you hassle with legs in the back, when installing the cabinet on a wall. If it is not a dry wall in which you missed every stud, this is not necessary.
It appears so...with the Norwegians.
They have been known to call help desks for centuries.
ua-cam.com/video/pQHX-SjgQvQ/v-deo.htmlsi=oXU9IhtTdfRXShO9
Legs. I don't see putting in the rear work as a hassle or more work. I see it as "job well done." I cannot find one single argument which makes sense to me for not doing it.
Extra work and a small extra expense, is not stopping me from making sure my work is top notch.
I know the screws I use for the rails are strong, I know that all of them are in a rail, but I cannot guarantee that all the viewers do it right, so when I recommend to use legs all over, I do it to make sure their kitchens are as good as possible, and can hold the weight of a heavy quartz counter top and a few full-body individuals having a snack while sitting on the top of the kitchen counters.
@@kitchensbyrannes I do find it kind of cumbersome to put legs in the back on 80cm cabinets or in the corners. That's why the rail system is so nice, because it is quick and easy. You don't have to crawl on the floor and rip out your arm do get to legs. And that's my point: Of course you can do it, if you are up to it. But it's not necessary and if you do the rail right you will not have any problems with the weight of anything. But you know that already ;)
I installed a few ikea kitchens already. Gotta check out the rest of your videos and find out if you got some good tricks for me in the future. Thanks for your work! :)
That one cabinet....the 88x88 cm corner, it is a pain. No one have arms long enough to get to that leg in the corner. I have a video showing how, but you don't need to watch it 😉🤣
You're right about the rails. Do it right and the legs at the back becomes less important....but ....🤗
So, front legs FIRST, then tie together cabinets second, then 100% level all cabinets , and the last step is just to put the rear legs and just make them have contact the ground to avoid messing up your previous level ?
Yes, but before that, put in the grey lock nut at the bracket/rail.
Good video. I'm not a big fan of the legs. I understand they cannot be shifted. But sometimes it happens accidentally especially if not on a rail (island). I do what you said and don't straddle legs between cabinets. I am curious if they made metal adjustable kitchen cabinet legs if people would buy those at the higher cost.
I think people gladly would spend more money to get metal legs, even though we all know now, it's not needed.
The legs just need to be better quality. Cheap plastic. Should be screwed too the cabinets. Not just inserted waiting to crack off.
Just installed a kitchen for a client and honestly the legs drove me nuts.
Sending them to my cabinet maker for the next reno.
Hi Mike.
Thanks for your input. I disagree wholeheartedly however 😉
Did you watch the video in its entirety?
And this one: ua-cam.com/video/y21bJrHf8gg/v-deo.htmlsi=-NRoeEiOmDxmnpdy
They "fail" for a reason, but I don't see the problem IF one uses them with their limitations in mind.
I wish the instructions would be better. The real problem is that the instructions show the legs must be mounted BEFORE the cabinet is hung onto the rail.
If you do how I do it, no broken legs, no problems.
Do you have any tips on setting the proper height for the legs at the back of base cabinets in a galley kitchen layout, where hands can’t easily reach?
For a regular depth cabinet, you just lay on the floor and reach in.
For the 38x38" (88x88 cm), check this:
ua-cam.com/video/1scxJS1P-NY/v-deo.htmlsi=2462KOBPEI2CVBDb
@@kitchensbyrannes Thanks very much for the info. I didn't think of using a trench for the task.
You're welcome 🤗