Thanks for the reply Gary I've only rebuilt a few 700r4s this a new for me i never had a apprenticeship anywhere just learned what i could in the Army and Diesel Automotive trade school but most was on the street by myself i love your videos don't know what id do with out them i enjoy my work even better with you here in the shop thanks man
I have 03 MB s55 my transmission delayed engaging and slightly jerking up and down shifts, new conductor plate , new fluids what do you think wrong with it
Thank you for the videos they're really nice you know the common failure of this transmission I have one that keeps on going in limp mode I can't get a conductor plate and distribution plug and the filter and the fluid but it's still going into limp mode and it sounds like the tc is winding or it could be the pump winding it worked for a a few days after I change the conductor plate but then it went back to limp mode where it only move a little bit
@@GaryFerraro I first had the problem I went to go get in my car and it wouldn't move at all I left it running after being on the highway for a few hours and I went to get back in my car and it wouldn't move so I let the car turned it on and off a couple times and it it moved a little bit and then went and go limp mode so I changed the conductor plate and the the plug and cleaned it all up and it ran fine for a week and then now it's doing the same thing as soon as it'll go for about a hundred feet and then it'll go into limp mode like it's going into limp mode out of first gear
By failing to have torque converter lined up, it got pushed in transmission, had to pull it out, could've that messed up my pump some how? I replaced motor,
+pastormarkm After you remove the clutchs, you will need to depress the belville return spring to get out the wire clip. For this you need a foot press or somekind of bench press to push the spring down and get the snap ring out.
Have you ever seen clutches delaminate on these transmissions? One of the clutch disks in the B2 housing completely delaminated causing the filter to clog up and run the transmission dry. Any idea what could cause this kind of failure?
@@GaryFerraro thanks for the very quick response. What’s odd is every other clutch disk looks great except the one that delaminated. The transmission had 122k miles when the failure occurred. I’ll be posting a short clip showing the failure in a minute
Was wondering what ATF you’d recommend for this transmission? The 2002 E320 RWD Wagon has Redline added at the last service. I’m thinking about a service (replace conductor plate and socket, filter and gasket, as well as draining torque converter). There’s lots of ATF to flush out through the line to to radiator - was thinking about using the Valvoline Max life multivehicle ATF. I’m told it’s compatible with the vehicle but I thought of asking you for a recommendation since I’m gonna use gallons for a full flush
? My 2008 dodge sprinter 3.0 turbo has a issue up shifting when the temperature outside starts heating up. could this be the gas pedal sensor over heating. When its cold outside it shifts fine.
Hi Gary, So did a full rebuild on the transmission new sprags, master rebuild kit etc. I filled it upwith fuild and even checked it with the dipstick, but it is still slipping. Is it possible for one of the solenoids to go bad and cause a problem like this?
Gary Ferraro hey Gary what’s was the complaint on this transmission for it to be in your shop for a repair? I have a nag1 now in my Chrysler 300c is parked as of day before the trans messed up its whinnning really loud and won’t move in any gear just revs slow whines loud any gear won’t move??? Wondering if it’s the sprag or something else. When I start the car cold it whine but it will go into gear and move a bit then it will stop again
@@GaryFerraro Yes and thank you. I had code p0732 and p2767 pop up on my transmission. I drive and it gets stuck in 2nd gear I swapped conductor plates and the same thing happens. It says incorrect gear ratio bank 2 and input speed sensor faulty. I'm just looking for advice on what I should do.
Hi Gary, Thanks again for the help. I got the pistons out and seals replaced. This Trans had major slippage at low speed. That is what led to the rebuild. I found the K2 steals show some wear rings that make me think they were the location of the slippage and it seems like they had way to little piston apply pressure to them allowing the slippage. So far the seals did not seam to be bad, so what else should I look at as a possible source of the slippage? (I should say the 4 plastic seals on the intermediate shaft did seem like they did not stick out of the shaft barely at all, so I guess that could be the source, but none of them seemed to be a clear failure leading to this much slippage) Thanks God bless... Mark
Hi Gary, It slipped all the time, not just during shifts. The F1 sprag is working correctly I haven't gotten to checking the F2 sprag yet, but I think there has to be something else going on... The Jeep dealer replaced the TCM and that did nothing, so they said it needed a rebuild. (Just more info in case that helps)
Checking to see if the sprag works is fine, but that doesn't mean its good, I replace them on every rebuild because of the high failure rate. The sprags are the bridges between the shifts, so if its slipping between the shifts replace them both. Gary
Thanks Gary, I got the two sprags and the separator plate ordered and on their way. The transmission was slipping all the time not just on shifts. Would the sprags going bad do that? The housings don't show pitting of unusual wear from the sprags slipping on/in them.
Gary Ferraro I forgot to mention it looks like the gearbox was worked on before. Especially the flange. So possibly they could have lost the shim. But then what is the shim size seeing as my local dealer doent show it.
Hey Gary finally got the transmission back in but its overheating it shifted great but its now is over heating not sure whats going on? any suggestions i also hear a rotational noise im pretty sure i got the converter in right i checked it a bunch their are no codes just hot oil warning fluid looks and smells great
Gary Ferraro the scan tool i used i looked under transmission it said 220 i think i figured it it out the exaust is not correct it needs to be redone to allow heat to escape from under it i also am going to run a 180 degree thermostat and put in a heavy duty trans cooled and put on a vented hood their is no way its anything mechanical i took her on the free way did 86 no issue i started driveing off the freeway i got a hot oil warning i also pull my foot on the brake and gas i did that several times no problems hemi swaps are known for heat issues
Hi...whatfor is that shim beetwen bearing and output shaft drive yoke? Can be that some Transmission don't have it?Thank uI have noices in 4gear all the time and when slowing down from 3 to 2 and from 2 to 1 gear but just for a second(in the moment when changes the gear)Noices like manual Transmissions have in Reverse gearThank u verry much
Gary. I drive 250cdi e-series mercedes with 722.646 transmission. I did wash the transmission with oil additive, drained oil, changed filter and gasket, filled in same amount of new oil as came out, then did flush change the oil 8,5L. Now I get 2nd gear excessive tc slip when trans oil is cold. When its warm, everything works fine. What would cause this? No issues before oil change.
Havent read fault codes, no engine light at least. No more slip than before (and for my experience it really does work good), apart from when the gearbox oil is cold. Did 3 full throttle accelerations on standard mode 1-2-3 and normao engine+gearbox temperatures The tc lockup on first gear is rather noticiable, locks up around 3300rpm. As said before, when gearbox oil is warm, it works as before ish, good I would describe.
Gary. I think I got this sorted. Transmission was low on oil level. When fully warmed up the level was at minimum. So likely it ran out of oil preasure when cold. I did not have the dipstick available when doing the flush oil change, I just added the same amount that came out and did th flush change for 8,5 litres.. likely it was low before the oil change allready. As another question, would you recommend resetting the adaptations, and if so would it be better to let the gearbox learn itself, or reset and run the adaptations as the Mercedes program quides to?
@@jarnokarjalainen2668 on the 722.6 i usually just drive them. In order for the trans to adapt, there cannot be any codes present, check engine light off and transmission temp above 140F
1stGenStunter Yes, you can even remove the bellhousing without removing the valvebody, before removing the valvebody make sure you remove the pass through connector first. Thanks for watching. Gary
The P0715 Can make the P0730 show up, Make sure trans is full of fluid. Make sure no oil worked its way up the wire loom and into the TCM. If all looks good and its full of fluid, your conductor plate is no good
Wery nice video ! Here i my country ( Hungary ) doesnt really good transmission specified mechanics . I had a very frustrating problem with my same trans like thisw . only difference is its in a c270 cdi . My biggest problem is it doesnt really gives mutch lock-up compared to others . what could cause it ?
@@GaryFerraro it has when im pushing the gas slowly to the floor . but when i floors it down fast doesnt. im seeing videos of the lot more HP OM606-s with stock gearbox and torque converter and they gives mutch more lockup.
2007 E350, dealer said valve body 8000 to fix, is there anyway I can change just the conductor plate and not reprogram? or do u still need to program the transmission after changing just the conductor plate?
Hi Gary, thanks for the great videos and explanations. i have a 722.663 that looses drive when hot, the scanner shows code 51 gear implausible or transmission slipping. could it be possible to slip due to loss of hydraulic pressure? and only orings and seal need replacement? the scanner live data says when hot, idling shifter in D brakes aplied "clutch speed difference" 100rpm, when cold it indicates exactly the engine rpm (about 700rpm) this problem arose after being parked for 30 days due to quarantine No bits in pan and already change fluid and filter.
When you loose drive do you loose reverse to? When you loose drive it doe not move forward at all? If you turn off the car for a few minutes and start it again can the car move a few blocks?
@@GaryFerraro I've already changed filter and fluid, is it possible to have this problem if solenoids orings get hardened or leaks? I'm brainstorming praying that i don't have to remove the transmission.
Enrique Dueñas I Believe i saw that once, (no shims). There is a procdure to check the end play. Do you know if this trans was worked on before or maybe apart before. You will have to measure the end play. i will get the procdure and let you know. im pretty packed at the shop, but i will try to post it tommorrow nite.
Found it, check page 115 of the following manual. www.all-trans.by/assets/site/files/mercedes/722.6.1.pdf I already measured the end play, and without the shim it is .3mm :S so, aparently it is ok without the shims... but im still not comfortable about it.
Hallo ich habe meine Getriebe neu überholt. Jetzt habe ich das Problem, dass das Getriebe nur noch in den 1. und 2. Gang schaltet (Automatik). Vorher hatte ich ebenfalls diese „Gangproblem“. Ich habe folgende 2 Fehler angezeigt bekommen: 1. P2502 Eingelegter Gang unplausibel 2. P2503 Gangvergleich Vergl. negativ/Zielgang n. erreicht Können Sie mir bitte helfen? Kann es sein, dass der Schalthebel kaputt ist oder das Steuergerät im Fußraum ist defekt? Haben Sie vielleicht Erfahrungen mit diesem Problem? Ich bedanke mich sehr für Ihre Hilfe! Viele Grüße Dhulfiqar Al-Rubaye
Eng:Hi, I have exactly the same codes, I've replaced the conductor plate, and it didn't help (reset codes properly). What was the solution in your case? Can you help? German: Hallo, ich habe genau die gleichen Codes, ich habe die Leiterplatte ausgetauscht, und es hat nicht geholfen (Codes richtig zurücksetzen). Was war in Ihrem Fall die Lösung? Kannst du helfen?
@@kfztuningdhulficar9648 Eng: So, you have to remove the transmission, disassemble it, repair it and place it back. Am I right? German: Sie müssen also das Getriebe ausbauen, zerlegen, reparieren und wieder einsetzen. Habe ich recht?
I had the same codes. In my case I had to replace ALL transmission oil (include from torque converter and radiator) -> not just in oil pan. This guy tells how to do this "properly/easier way": ua-cam.com/video/7syO7SzKKQ4/v-deo.html Also, oil level was incorrect in my case. I had to measure oil level when car was hot and oil should be between min and max on deep stick on (80 degree measurement). I've measured only on cold, so I didn't have enough oil. Hopefully it will help for someone.
i going to buy the tool,but i remove the pan end is nasty. so i going to remove it. it may have a bad pump or the torque converter. I going to rebuilt it. Any recomendations? to what to check or look for?
if your going to build, change both sprags, conductor plate too. If the pan had alot of crap in it, you need to flush that cooler out somehow. Let me know what you find.
hi gary in this tranny what i found was the B-2 clutches burn out. before i remove this tranny i put some good used oil just to moved it out. and the car it moved in reverse but hardly foward.
Gary Ferraro, I have a wjat I think is a 4 speed 4g tronic auto box in a viano Mercedes cdi 3.0 v6 wdf639.. So it has a vibration at 110 km/per hour or 68 miles/per hour. when I gun it on an up hill the 1st second I push the throttle it vibrates bad. Thanks to this video I could strip down the gearbox because it looks simuler . But the tailshaft flange has a bit of a play. And I checked the nut was very tight. I have the bearing ball out and it feels a bit dry if it is the right explanation . Now the 2 shims in the video behind the park gear mine has. But it does not have a shim behind the flange. Even the diagram at Mercedes says it does not have a shim there. It ndoes not have a bushing. The shaft does not look warn neither does the flange splines. Any ideas.
Thanks for the reply. I never checked for codes because I thought it was the propshaft. I am from south Africa so I don't know if the name of parts are correct. I did jack up the bus, all 4 wheels, and put it in drive and let it run while inspecting the drive Shaft(propshaft) and at the gearbox tail flange there was movement. I can send the video I took of this if I have your email
@@GaryFerraro I checked the diagnostics now and bear in mind the gearbox is out, but the code is 0743 Stored¤t Component Y3/6Y6 (Torque converter lockup PWM solenoid valve) does not function properly. Short circuit to ground or open circuit. Open circuit is because it is plugged out. But it is stored code so would that not mean something. I see symptoms is shudder when pulling away which it does if you floor it for a second there is a shudder. And then at 110km/p/hour a light vibration
@@GaryFerraro I have noticed the output shaft tip is bend slightly. I guess that would be the vibration. But how does it bend. nothing is in contact with that tip.
Dear Gary What is the normal operating temperature on 722.6. I have a suv ML 2003 2.7 diesel the trans warms up to 120c and will go even higer. The problem is going in to limp mode when hot, code is speed sensor 2-3 implausible signal or sliping. Can it also be the conductor plate?
Can be conductor plate, do you know what the code number is? 120c is almost 250f that running alittle to hot, about 20 degrees or so, if your driving it when in limp mode, that will heat up the trans
No i don’t have the number of the conductor plate, because i didn’t remove valve body. No the transmission goes into limp mode only when hot and also the converter clutch sems little strange to me, it never locks it self on the scann tool it’s always open or regulating. I don’t know how this benz tranns lock up is working but on zf transmissions it’s locked almost all the time but not here, i don’t know majbe it must be that way.
No, i meant the trouble code number. Sometimes its a softwear issue with the scan tool, one time i started looking into a speed sensor issue and realized it was the scan tool giving me the wrong info. What type of scanner do you have?
I have a P0715 and P1747 code with no shifting above 2-3 gear after installing a used tranny? Any suggestion on the P1747 code? P0715 -speed sensor inside faulty valve body?Thanks
If the code is currently present clear it, the trans should shift, if it comes back, the conductor plate on the trans is no good. Are you sure this is full of oil? do you have the tool (dipstick) to measure the fluid?
I do have the dipstick. I will go and check. The shop put 8 quarts in, will fluid shortage cause those codes? What if I clear the codes and it does not shift past 2-3 gear?
Hi Gary, Just found your video. Great production and explanation of the transmission. I have a SLK32 with a faint wirring sound that doesn't seem to change intensity with more revs. Is that something I need to worry about? Also found a circle of oil on the garage floor when I reversed out this morning. From reading up on your site I'm hoping it's just the electric plug leaking. There are many 722 transmission in local wrecking yards so wondering if I should get one and rebuild it as a spare for the 32. Or would I need to change some components as AMG modified them for faster shifting. Appreciate your advice. Cheers Danny in Australia.
The AMG E55 have special pressure solenoids with blue tops. If this noise is not changing with road speed, are you sure it's coming from the trans. Greetings from New York
Double check the noise in reverse to see if it's there. If there is a noise in drive and reverse but goes away in park or neutral, converter is no good. how does the car shift?
Shifts great. Snaps on down shifts either on acceleration or tapping the lever left. The wirring is quiet, faint and you need to listen for it. I've stopped driving it to find and fix the leak and do a service. After draining the sump, can I drain the tc by idling the engine in neutral and opening a cooler pipe. This was suggested to me but I'm afraid of spinning the transmission without oil.
Hello I have newly overhauled my gearbox. Now I have the problem that the transmission only in the 1st and 2nd gear switches (automatic). Before that I also had this "gait problem". I have received the following 2 errors: 1. P2502 Pickled gear implausible 2. P2503 speed comparison Comp. Negative / target gear reached Could you please help me? Can it be that the shift lever is broken or the control unit in the footwell is defective? Do you have any experience with this problem? Thank you very much for your help! Best regards Dhulfiqar Al-Rubaye
The car is built in 2002 CLK gear 722.6960 and switch gear 1 and 2 but with shift lever I turn and when I drive a bit after I do not want to switch with hand does not work
Hi, I have exactly the same codes, I've replaced the conductor plate, and it didn't help (reset codes properly). What was the solution in your case? Can you help?
There is some controversy about checking the fluid level in the MB 722.6 transmission using market supplied Dipstick's.Can you show a pic of where the dipstick enters the trans oil in the sump? Especially where the "Black Diamond" on the plastic measuring tip prevents the tip from travelling past a certain point? Effectively the "black Diamond" acts as a "Stop". Or does this stop not exist at all? If this is the case, it would make checking the fluid level a very "Hit and Miss" affair. Very informative video, Thanks for sharing.
Hi Gary, Thanks for your reply. Problem with that is, the dipstick has a flexible plastic measuring tip, which has Hot / Cold marking's ( plus of course, the the actual rod itself is flexible .) So if you push it down, and it reaches the bottom, then the measuring tip will bend, so you wont get the a correct reading. It's my point that the "Black Diamond" on the measuring tip, acts as a stop. So next time you have a trans opened up, can you insert a dipstick into the tube, and see how much emerges in the sump? Of course, if there is no stop, then ( theoretically ) you should be able to push the dipstick so far down the tube, that 6 inches should be visible in the sump? If possible, and you can do this, could you please take a pic and post it here? Many Thanks for your help with this, it will settle the point once and for all. Best Regards, Jim.
Hello Kathy, First thing you need to do is make sure there is fluid in the trans, this trans should have a filler tube but no dipstick to check fluid level. The dipstick is considered a "tool" and you would either have to purchase it or go to a shop that has one. Reason why i say to check the fluid level is because these transmissions love to leak out of the connector where the wire harness gets plugged into, this connector has been updated a few times. Start with that and let me know how it goes Gary
+Gary Ferraro thanks for the quick reply..so i do have the trans dipstick also fluid is fine i cleaned conductor plate also the valves checked all the linkage, and filled with new atf around 4liters...theres no fluid feeding through the trans cooler lines when i turn the car on..also the code i got was with a standard obd2 with abs scanner and i got p0730..any exsperienced fix would be appreciated..
Ok, so its full of fluid, thats good. Next question are you taking of only one cooler line? and if so is it the return line? (thats the line the fluid will flow out of) The P0730 code is Gear ratio error. Are you disconnecting the line at the radiator? Gary
Hi Gary, Greetings from Northern Virginia, my apologies for any intrusion. Q: I have a 722.608; w 247K miles drooped trans pan found metal shrapnel. Changed out Transmission Valve Body Conductor Plate TCU filter fluid change. Receiving via MB Star EGS Fault 147 - Sporadically Gear implausible or transmission slipping and 151 Sporadically Gear comparison negative. Target gear not achieved Could you please share with me your thoughts on possible causes and a focus to resolve? I have been using WIS / ASRA related information as a troubleshooting fault case guide. The left rear wheel hub, tire rim, lug nut did get hung up in the housing while driving and may also be a cause. Thanks and Best to you and yours. I use to get out to you're neighborhood often, now only Battery Park, 33 Whitehall
I have checked the transmission fluid level numerous times when warm @ temperature 80 degrees with the dip stick and it is within the hash marks.The vehicle seems to run fine change gears and then after a period of time starts slipping and going into hydraulic limp mode I believe.
2007 E350, dealer said valve body 8000 to fix, at what point will I need to program the transmission, can I just clean all that up and put back together and not have to reprogram? not sure what you meant when you said take info out and put back in, on one of your videos, by the way great videos, thanks
You may have a 722.9 which has the TCM inside the trans, i would need to run your vin number to confirm trans type and also need to know what codes you have,
Any way videos are great, but cant mess with car cause it belongs to my old lady, as much as I'd want to, but i think best to leave it to a professional , hence computerized issues, and what not......if it were mine I'd follow Gary's video! So i took it in to Henrys mercedes in whittier, the opened it and said rebuild for 3800, dealer wanted from 5000 to 8000. Two year warranty, so Henrys it is. Wish Gary was in Calif! Ent and talked to Henry, seemed to have great disposition as Gary, very clean shop, and dedicated. Let you guys know how it turns out, thanks again Gary Albert
Gary, great vid, thank you for your invaluable knowledge. I have a slip from 2nd-3rd. When cold, less of a slip and when hot, definitely slips. I have great power behind all 5 gears, just the 2-3 slip. There was darkish grey material in the bottom of the pan (did not smell burnt), few medium sized pieces of (friction disc?) and I'd say normal fine metallic gunk on the magnet/pan bottom,(nothing large screaming shearing gears, etc.) I do feel that I should replace 3rd gear friction discs and it sounds that i should replace sprags also however, "What drum are the 3rd gear discs in?" K1, B3, V8 lol. Btw, my sprinter transmission has only 76k on it. A tranny shop, ditching the van and complete rebuilds are all out of the question. I can only afford to rebuild the one drum, sprags and fluid. Conductor plate is replaced. Any and all help is appreciated.
Hello, The K2 clutch comes on in 3rd and stays on for 4th and 5th. The K1 clutch comes on in 2nd and stays on for 3rd and 4th. maybe a lazy solenoid also, the shift solenoids are all the same if you want to swap them around
Big thanks for the super quick response Gary! I was thinking of swapping out solenoids also. Not going to cost me anything to try...I'll post back next week when i try that out. Thank you.
If this does not move foward, look at your band in the back of the transmission. have you ever worked on a 4L80E Trans before? The planetary has to be indexed for reassembly.
Gone are the days when you could take a Chrysler 727, put all the parts in a box and shake it really hard. Tip it out and a fully assembled transmission would fall out.. just add fluid.
Great video Gary, have u seen this fault before? hard downshift 2-1: Whats the bellville snap ring look like? Case Number: K29132783 Vehicle Issue: Vehicle has a harsh 2-1 down shift. Year: 2005 | 2006 | 2007 Model: LX - 300 | LX - Magnum | WK - Grand Cherokee | LX - Charger | XK - Commander Automatic Transmission / Transaxle Model: NAG1 (5spd Automatic - RWD - Electronic Shift - TCM) System or Component: Automatic Transmission / Transaxle Symptom:Harshness | Too Hard / Firm / Stiff | Double Bump Engagement | Harsh Engagement | Upshift / Downshift Issues Transmission Gear or Shift Involved: 2-1 Downshift Case Verification: No codes are setting. The 2-1 down shift is harsh. Recommendation: Inspect the K1 clutch Bellville retainer snap ring is seated correctly. This can prevent the K1 clutch from un-applying fast enough and cause a momentary 3 element fight. You may want to check for stuck or sticky 1-2, 4-5 shift valves in the valve body before removing the transmission.
+Hollis Smith Maybe online transmission parts supplier(if they sell them seperatly, If not go to your local transmission shop and ask if they have extras
hello I am from Poland I have From a few years of Mercedes Ml in 163 3.2 v6 year 1998 the vehicle has a mileage of 250,000 km I have recently been struggling with the problem of an automatic transmission which goes into emergency mode after heating error on the diagnostic computer sensor sporadic speed sensor error N3 and problem with engine misfiring on 1 2 3 cylinder coils ok ok wires spark sparkling ok catalysts where can there be a problem please help in diagnosis.
Well, you may have 2 problems but a bad running engine can affect the way a transmission works, so the first thing i would do is straighten out your engine issues and see if the transmission problems are resolved. Are Clylinders 1,2 and 3 on the same side?
hello, as you asked the cylinders where the ignition falls, they are on the same side looking from the front of the engine on the left hand cylinders 1 2 3 the other side does not fall out, I just turned the injection, but it also does not think that the wine is after the pressure of fuel ordered expensive road fuel and manomert to measure the pressure of fuel on the strips - coils tested candles new NGK platinium cables ca. catalyst empty humped jets egr checked, also vacuum, I ordered in Mercedes servis intake manifold gasket is hard, I will let you know what to do next when I deposit new pump-pump Fuel in the tank clean as new - I have three MLs in 163 3.2 v6 this all with LPG STAG the rest works well only with this are troubles.
The problem with ASB 722.6 appeared when I replaced the plug with o-rings, the power supply of the box when I tried to unscrew the socket were damaged-contacts, I realized it and replaced the plate with the new filter and oil for a year was ok now such anomaly - which is an occasional sensor error N3 rotational speed only how hot after a dynamic drive when the moment is stopped, eg 30 min goes into emergency mode after cooling, eg 6 hours, everything is ok
Great videos Garry. You say that the tolerances should be 'tightened up'. I'm thinking that you are talking about using thicker snap rings in the clutch packs to get to spec? Is a minimum specified clearance better than a mid range clearance? I dont want them too tight to cause problems.D
I got a Chrysler 2006 everything works on my transmission but when the revolutions going down you feel vibrations that I believe the came from my transmission
Wondering if anyone can help me I'm getting like a shudder at low rpms it shifts fine when I shift it in manual mode it goes away it also shudders when I'm slowing down to stop like the torque converter isn't unlocking it's a 06 Dodge charger Daytona with about 130000 yea it's my daily driver
Torque converter clutch apply normally will be commanded when the car is hot, when coming to a stop as you feel the shudder put the car in neutral see if it goes away
Gary Ferraro it dose go away in neutral so that's probably slipping clutch plates I guess that's y it stopps when I put it in manual mode cuz it locks up all my clutches
EndofUSA At the begining i didnt know what i was going to find, if you start watching from 6:45 is when i found the problem with the trans. Thanks for watching
Gary Ferraro what I meant was I am sure the owner of the AT had observed and had complains of what the trouble was, like was it flaring in any of the gears, hard shifting, no shifting, whining sound etc. Thanks
EndofUSA Sorry about that, It had a really bad slip on the 1-2 shift. I found the F1 sprag to be bad, which is the bridge for the 1-2 shift on the 722.6.
yes we have in the city mostly older model Mercedes 140 124 202 210 190 per Mercedes no problems know all is well,I do not have experience on other machines Opel volskvagen Grand Cherokee Mitsubishi toyota
Thanks for the reply Gary I've only rebuilt a few 700r4s this a new for me i never had a apprenticeship anywhere just learned what i could in the Army and Diesel Automotive trade school but most was on the street by myself i love your videos don't know what id do with out them i enjoy my work even better with you here in the shop thanks man
Thank you and thanks for watching
I have 03 MB s55 my transmission delayed engaging and slightly jerking up and down shifts, new conductor plate , new fluids what do you think wrong with it
Thank you for the videos they're really nice you know the common failure of this transmission I have one that keeps on going in limp mode I can't get a conductor plate and distribution plug and the filter and the fluid but it's still going into limp mode and it sounds like the tc is winding or it could be the pump winding it worked for a a few days after I change the conductor plate but then it went back to limp mode where it only move a little bit
Did it drive ok for the first 10 minutes or so and then stop moving?
@@GaryFerraro I first had the problem I went to go get in my car and it wouldn't move at all I left it running after being on the highway for a few hours and I went to get back in my car and it wouldn't move so I let the car turned it on and off a couple times and it it moved a little bit and then went and go limp mode so I changed the conductor plate and the the plug and cleaned it all up and it ran fine for a week and then now it's doing the same thing as soon as it'll go for about a hundred feet and then it'll go into limp mode like it's going into limp mode out of first gear
If you see the square hole at the bottom of bell housing, did the hole has plug/cover?
it would normally take a plastic cover
Great Gary.
how do you know if the clutch packs are burned and need to be replaced in the 722.6 transmission
Well, you could drop the pan see if anything is in the pan, other than that you would have to take the trans down
By failing to have torque converter lined up, it got pushed in transmission, had to pull it out, could've that messed up my pump some how?
I replaced motor,
Excellent video Gary! Thanks for sharing. One question, how do I get the K1 apply piston out so I can replace the o-ring seals in it?
+pastormarkm After you remove the clutchs, you will need to depress the belville return spring to get out the wire clip. For this you need a foot press or somekind of bench press to push the spring down and get the snap ring out.
Have you ever seen clutches delaminate on these transmissions? One of the clutch disks in the B2 housing completely delaminated causing the filter to clog up and run the transmission dry. Any idea what could cause this kind of failure?
At one point there was probably water in the trans. Water melts the glue that holds the paper onto the disk. I would change all of the clutch plates.
@@GaryFerraro thanks for the very quick response. What’s odd is every other clutch disk looks great except the one that delaminated. The transmission had 122k miles when the failure occurred. I’ll be posting a short clip showing the failure in a minute
@@OnlyKelp ok, or you can send pictures
gsferraro@yahoo.com
Was wondering what ATF you’d recommend for this transmission? The 2002 E320 RWD Wagon has Redline added at the last service. I’m thinking about a service (replace conductor plate and socket, filter and gasket, as well as draining torque converter). There’s lots of ATF to flush out through the line to to radiator - was thinking about using the Valvoline Max life multivehicle ATF. I’m told it’s compatible with the vehicle but I thought of asking you for a recommendation since I’m gonna use gallons for a full flush
Sure that should work, as long as it is a premium Synthetic fluid you will be fine
? My 2008 dodge sprinter 3.0 turbo has a issue up shifting when the temperature outside starts heating up. could this be the gas pedal sensor over heating. When its cold outside it shifts fine.
Hi Gary,
So did a full rebuild on the transmission new sprags, master rebuild kit etc. I filled it upwith fuild and even checked it with the dipstick, but it is still slipping. Is it possible for one of the solenoids to go bad and cause a problem like this?
+pastormarkm Solenoids on this unit rarely go bad, the 3 shift solenoids are the same, maybe swap them around see if the problem changes.
pastormarkm tq converter?
Gary Ferraro hey Gary what’s was the complaint on this transmission for it to be in your shop for a repair? I have a nag1 now in my Chrysler 300c is parked as of day before the trans messed up its whinnning really loud and won’t move in any gear just revs slow whines loud any gear won’t move??? Wondering if it’s the sprag or something else. When I start the car cold it whine but it will go into gear and move a bit then it will stop again
Is it similar to all 722.6 ?
Are these the same trandmissions on a 2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee, if so, where is the input speed sensor located?
It could be yes, depends on engine size, is it a 3.7? if so the input speed sensor is on the conductor plate
@@GaryFerraro Yes and thank you. I had code p0732 and p2767 pop up on my transmission. I drive and it gets stuck in 2nd gear I swapped conductor plates and the same thing happens. It says incorrect gear ratio bank 2 and input speed sensor faulty. I'm just looking for advice on what I should do.
@@jasonmiller4311 check your TCM make sure no oil got in the TCM
Hi Gary, Thanks again for the help. I got the pistons out and seals replaced. This Trans had major slippage at low speed. That is what led to the rebuild. I found the K2 steals show some wear rings that make me think they were the location of the slippage and it seems like they had way to little piston apply pressure to them allowing the slippage. So far the seals did not seam to be bad, so what else should I look at as a possible source of the slippage? (I should say the 4 plastic seals on the intermediate shaft did seem like they did not stick out of the shaft barely at all, so I guess that could be the source, but none of them seemed to be a clear failure leading to this much slippage) Thanks
God bless...
Mark
+pastormarkm if the trans slipped on the shifts, replace the F1 and F2 sprags, these have a high failure rate. Gary
Hi Gary, It slipped all the time, not just during shifts. The F1 sprag is working correctly I haven't gotten to checking the F2 sprag yet, but I think there has to be something else going on... The Jeep dealer replaced the TCM and that did nothing, so they said it needed a rebuild. (Just more info in case that helps)
Checking to see if the sprag works is fine, but that doesn't mean its good, I replace them on every rebuild because of the high failure rate. The sprags are the bridges between the shifts, so if its slipping between the shifts replace them both. Gary
Thanks Gary, I got the two sprags and the separator plate ordered and on their way. The transmission was slipping all the time not just on shifts. Would the sprags going bad do that? The housings don't show pitting of unusual wear from the sprags slipping on/in them.
you wont be able to tell if the elements are worn, you also need a special tool(dipstick) to check the fluid level, do you have this?
Gary Ferraro I forgot to mention it looks like the gearbox was worked on before. Especially the flange. So possibly they could have lost the shim. But then what is the shim size seeing as my local dealer doent show it.
Hey Gary finally got the transmission back in but its overheating it shifted great but its now is over heating not sure whats going on? any suggestions i also hear a rotational noise im pretty sure i got the converter in right i checked it a bunch their are no codes just hot oil warning fluid looks and smells great
Do you have a scan tool to see how hot the temp is?
Gary Ferraro the scan tool i used i looked under transmission it said 220 i think i figured it it out the exaust is not correct it needs to be redone to allow heat to escape from under it i also am going to run a 180 degree thermostat and put in a heavy duty trans cooled and put on a vented hood their is no way its anything mechanical i took her on the free way did 86 no issue i started driveing off the freeway i got a hot oil warning i also pull my foot on the brake and gas i did that several times no problems hemi swaps are known for heat issues
Hi...whatfor is that shim beetwen bearing and output shaft drive yoke? Can be that some Transmission don't have it?Thank uI have noices in 4gear all the time and when slowing down from 3 to 2 and from 2 to 1 gear but just for a second(in the moment when changes the gear)Noices like manual Transmissions have in Reverse gearThank u verry much
I have a sprinter t1n, when I reverse I have to wait a few seconds before I go into drive otherwise it will not move,what could be the issue.tks
Hasthe fluid level been checked?
Gary. I drive 250cdi e-series mercedes with 722.646 transmission. I did wash the transmission with oil additive, drained oil, changed filter and gasket, filled in same amount of new oil as came out, then did flush change the oil 8,5L. Now I get 2nd gear excessive tc slip when trans oil is cold. When its warm, everything works fine. What would cause this? No issues before oil change.
any codes? do you feel a slip when driving?
Havent read fault codes, no engine light at least. No more slip than before (and for my experience it really does work good), apart from when the gearbox oil is cold. Did 3 full throttle accelerations on standard mode 1-2-3 and normao engine+gearbox temperatures The tc lockup on first gear is rather noticiable, locks up around 3300rpm. As said before, when gearbox oil is warm, it works as before ish, good I would describe.
@@jarnokarjalainen2668 Are you looking at live data, how do you know TCC is locking up?
Gary. I think I got this sorted. Transmission was low on oil level. When fully warmed up the level was at minimum. So likely it ran out of oil preasure when cold. I did not have the dipstick available when doing the flush oil change, I just added the same amount that came out and did th flush change for 8,5 litres.. likely it was low before the oil change allready.
As another question, would you recommend resetting the adaptations, and if so would it be better to let the gearbox learn itself, or reset and run the adaptations as the Mercedes program quides to?
@@jarnokarjalainen2668 on the 722.6 i usually just drive them. In order for the trans to adapt, there cannot be any codes present, check engine light off and transmission temp above 140F
hi i need help with my 98 mercedes benz ml320 722.6 trans my shifter goes into gear but feels like its in neutral...any ideas much appreciated
Can the bellhousing assembly only be removed after the valvebody is removed?
1stGenStunter Yes, you can even remove the bellhousing without removing the valvebody, before removing the valvebody make sure you remove the pass through connector first. Thanks for watching. Gary
Hi Gary, I have 2005 ML500 getting codes P0715, P0730 with shifting issues?
The P0715 Can make the P0730 show up, Make sure trans is full of fluid. Make sure no oil worked its way up the wire loom and into the TCM. If all looks good and its full of fluid, your conductor plate is no good
Wery nice video ! Here i my country ( Hungary ) doesnt really good transmission specified mechanics . I had a very frustrating problem with my same trans like thisw . only difference is its in a c270 cdi . My biggest problem is it doesnt really gives mutch lock-up compared to others . what could cause it ?
OK, so the trans has no lock-up? is it setting a code?
@@GaryFerraro it has when im pushing the gas slowly to the floor . but when i floors it down fast doesnt. im seeing videos of the lot more HP OM606-s with stock gearbox and torque converter and they gives mutch more lockup.
@@GaryFerraro anyway no trouble codes
@@druszan17 When you floor it the converter will unlock
@@GaryFerraro yes, but when im pushing to the floor gently it stays locked .
2007 E350, dealer said valve body 8000 to fix, is there anyway I can change just the conductor plate and not reprogram? or do u still need to program the transmission after changing just the conductor plate?
Vin# WDBUF56XX7B011408
In their notes was : 115549 trans. Fault ---0778 -- B1 brake solenoid valve / also
Hi Gary, thanks for the great videos and explanations.
i have a 722.663 that looses drive when hot, the scanner shows code 51 gear implausible or transmission slipping.
could it be possible to slip due to loss of hydraulic pressure? and only orings and seal need replacement?
the scanner live data says when hot, idling shifter in D brakes aplied "clutch speed difference" 100rpm, when cold it indicates exactly the engine rpm (about 700rpm) this problem arose after being parked for 30 days due to quarantine
No bits in pan and already change fluid and filter.
When you loose drive do you loose reverse to? When you loose drive it doe not move forward at all? If you turn off the car for a few minutes and start it again can the car move a few blocks?
@@GaryFerraro yes, that's what happens!
@@Mientras_Tanto Sounds like the main filter is clogging up, something in the transmission or converter is probably coming apart
@@GaryFerraro I've already changed filter and fluid, is it possible to have this problem if solenoids orings get hardened or leaks? I'm brainstorming praying that i don't have to remove the transmission.
@@Mientras_Tanto ok, when you replaced the filter, was ok for a day or two? What type of scanner are you using to read the codes?
Is it possible that the tranx didnt came with the parking/bearing and bearing/output shims? I didnt find those on my transmission, what can i do ?
Enrique Dueñas I Believe i saw that once, (no shims). There is a procdure to check the end play. Do you know if this trans was worked on before or maybe apart before. You will have to measure the end play. i will get the procdure and let you know. im pretty packed at the shop, but i will try to post it tommorrow nite.
Found it, check page 115 of the following manual.
www.all-trans.by/assets/site/files/mercedes/722.6.1.pdf
I already measured the end play, and without the shim it is .3mm :S so, aparently it is ok without the shims... but im still not comfortable about it.
Enrique Dueñas 0.3 to 0.5 is the spec, your within that range you should be ok, Good job on checking the end play. Gary
Hallo
ich habe meine Getriebe neu überholt. Jetzt habe ich das Problem, dass das Getriebe nur noch in den 1. und 2. Gang schaltet (Automatik). Vorher hatte ich ebenfalls diese „Gangproblem“.
Ich habe folgende 2 Fehler angezeigt bekommen:
1. P2502 Eingelegter Gang unplausibel
2. P2503 Gangvergleich Vergl. negativ/Zielgang n. erreicht
Können Sie mir bitte helfen? Kann es sein, dass der Schalthebel kaputt ist oder das Steuergerät im Fußraum ist defekt? Haben Sie vielleicht Erfahrungen mit diesem Problem?
Ich bedanke mich sehr für Ihre Hilfe!
Viele Grüße Dhulfiqar Al-Rubaye
Eng:Hi, I have exactly the same codes, I've replaced the conductor plate, and it didn't help (reset codes properly). What was the solution in your case? Can you help?
German: Hallo, ich habe genau die gleichen Codes, ich habe die Leiterplatte ausgetauscht, und es hat nicht geholfen (Codes richtig zurücksetzen). Was war in Ihrem Fall die Lösung? Kannst du helfen?
@@vladk9360 Oh bei mir war ein Lager kaputt Bremsanlage
@@kfztuningdhulficar9648 Eng: So, you have to remove the transmission, disassemble it, repair it and place it back. Am I right?
German: Sie müssen also das Getriebe ausbauen, zerlegen, reparieren und wieder einsetzen. Habe ich recht?
I had the same codes. In my case I had to replace ALL transmission oil (include from torque converter and radiator) -> not just in oil pan. This guy tells how to do this "properly/easier way": ua-cam.com/video/7syO7SzKKQ4/v-deo.html Also, oil level was incorrect in my case. I had to measure oil level when car was hot and oil should be between min and max on deep stick on (80 degree measurement). I've measured only on cold, so I didn't have enough oil. Hopefully it will help for someone.
What would cause that transmission to have a harsh shift from 1st to 2nd?
Do you have any codes present for the transmission?
hi gary i have a 06 sprinter 2500.it wont move at all.
when you rebuilt these units do you changed the electronic components?
Do you have the tool to check the fluid ? see if it shows overfull, possible the pump is no good.
i going to buy the tool,but i remove the pan end is nasty.
so i going to remove it.
it may have a bad pump or the torque converter.
I going to rebuilt it.
Any recomendations?
to what to check or look for?
if your going to build, change both sprags, conductor plate too. If the pan had alot of crap in it, you need to flush that cooler out somehow. Let me know what you find.
hi gary in this tranny what i found was the B-2 clutches burn out.
before i remove this tranny i put some good used oil just to moved it out.
and the car it moved in reverse but hardly foward.
do you change the gasket pump plate in this?
Gary Ferraro, I have a wjat I think is a 4 speed 4g tronic auto box in a viano Mercedes cdi 3.0 v6 wdf639.. So it has a vibration at 110 km/per hour or 68 miles/per hour. when I gun it on an up hill the 1st second I push the throttle it vibrates bad. Thanks to this video I could strip down the gearbox because it looks simuler . But the tailshaft flange has a bit of a play. And I checked the nut was very tight. I have the bearing ball out and it feels a bit dry if it is the right explanation . Now the 2 shims in the video behind the park gear mine has. But it does not have a shim behind the flange. Even the diagram at Mercedes says it does not have a shim there. It ndoes not have a bushing. The shaft does not look warn neither does the flange splines. Any ideas.
The shim behind the bearing, if not there don't worry about it. Do you have any codes present for the trans?
Thanks for the reply. I never checked for codes because I thought it was the propshaft. I am from south Africa so I don't know if the name of parts are correct. I did jack up the bus, all 4 wheels, and put it in drive and let it run while inspecting the drive Shaft(propshaft) and at the gearbox tail flange there was movement. I can send the video I took of this if I have your email
@@GaryFerraro I checked the diagnostics now and bear in mind the gearbox is out, but the code is 0743
Stored¤t
Component Y3/6Y6 (Torque converter lockup PWM solenoid valve) does not function properly. Short circuit to ground or open circuit.
Open circuit is because it is plugged out.
But it is stored code so would that not mean something.
I see symptoms is shudder when pulling away which it does if you floor it for a second there is a shudder. And then at 110km/p/hour a light vibration
@@GaryFerraro I have noticed the output shaft tip is bend slightly. I guess that would be the vibration. But how does it bend. nothing is in contact with that tip.
@@sv_endless6340 Not really sure on that, never seen it, if you release the gas, the vibration is still there?
Dear Gary
What is the normal operating temperature on 722.6. I have a suv ML 2003 2.7 diesel the trans warms up to 120c and will go even higer. The problem is going in to limp mode when hot, code is speed sensor 2-3 implausible signal or sliping. Can it also be the conductor plate?
Can be conductor plate, do you know what the code number is? 120c is almost 250f that running alittle to hot, about 20 degrees or so, if your driving it when in limp mode, that will heat up the trans
No i don’t have the number of the conductor plate, because i didn’t remove valve body. No the transmission goes into limp mode only when hot and also the converter clutch sems little strange to me, it never locks it self on the scann tool it’s always open or regulating. I don’t know how this benz tranns lock up is working but on zf transmissions it’s locked almost all the time but not here, i don’t know majbe it must be that way.
No, i meant the trouble code number. Sometimes its a softwear issue with the scan tool, one time i started looking into a speed sensor issue and realized it was the scan tool giving me the wrong info. What type of scanner do you have?
The codes are p2502 and p220a i have a delphi scan tool.
Those are speed sensor codes correct?
I have a P0715 and P1747 code with no shifting above 2-3 gear after installing a used tranny? Any suggestion on the P1747 code? P0715 -speed sensor inside faulty valve body?Thanks
If the code is currently present clear it, the trans should shift, if it comes back, the conductor plate on the trans is no good. Are you sure this is full of oil? do you have the tool (dipstick) to measure the fluid?
I do have the dipstick. I will go and check. The shop put 8 quarts in, will fluid shortage cause those codes? What if I clear the codes and it does not shift past 2-3 gear?
What causes the P1747 ?
what is the definition of P1747, low on fluid can cause, if you clear the code and it still doesnt shift, there is an electrical issue
Hi Gary,
Just found your video. Great production and explanation of the transmission. I have a SLK32 with a faint wirring sound that doesn't seem to change intensity with more revs. Is that something I need to worry about? Also found a circle of oil on the garage floor when I reversed out this morning. From reading up on your site I'm hoping it's just the electric plug leaking. There are many 722 transmission in local wrecking yards so wondering if I should get one and rebuild it as a spare for the 32. Or would I need to change some components as AMG modified them for faster shifting. Appreciate your advice. Cheers Danny in Australia.
The AMG E55 have special pressure solenoids with blue tops. If this noise is not changing with road speed, are you sure it's coming from the trans. Greetings from New York
The wirring is there in P, N and D but not in R. That suggests to me it's related to the box.
Double check the noise in reverse to see if it's there. If there is a noise in drive and reverse but goes away in park or neutral, converter is no good. how does the car shift?
Shifts great. Snaps on down shifts either on acceleration or tapping the lever left. The wirring is quiet, faint and you need to listen for it. I've stopped driving it to find and fix the leak and do a service. After draining the sump, can I drain the tc by idling the engine in neutral and opening a cooler pipe. This was suggested to me but I'm afraid of spinning the transmission without oil.
I never liked to do that, you can service the trans and in about a week do a drain and fill
Hello
I have newly overhauled my gearbox. Now I have the problem that the transmission only in the 1st and 2nd gear switches (automatic). Before that I also had this "gait problem".
I have received the following 2 errors:
1. P2502 Pickled gear implausible
2. P2503 speed comparison Comp. Negative / target gear reached
Could you please help me? Can it be that the shift lever is broken or the control unit in the footwell is defective? Do you have any experience with this problem?
Thank you very much for your help!
Best regards Dhulfiqar Al-Rubaye
ok, so to confirm, this makes a 1-2 shift and has no 3rd, 4th or 5th? What is the year of your car?
The car is built in 2002 CLK gear 722.6960 and switch gear 1 and 2 but with shift lever I turn and when I drive a bit after I do not want to switch with hand does not work
I have reconditioned the transmission and new board and everything new but I think that loses the program or does not know when can switch
Hi, I have exactly the same codes, I've replaced the conductor plate, and it didn't help (reset codes properly). What was the solution in your case? Can you help?
There is some controversy about checking the fluid level in the MB 722.6 transmission using market supplied Dipstick's.Can you show a pic of where the dipstick enters the trans oil in the sump? Especially where the "Black Diamond" on the plastic measuring tip prevents the tip from travelling past a certain point? Effectively the "black Diamond" acts as a "Stop". Or does this stop not exist at all? If this is the case, it would make checking the fluid level a very "Hit and Miss" affair.
Very informative video, Thanks for sharing.
You basically put the Dipstick "tool" down through the filler tube until it bottoms out and stops
Hi Gary, Thanks for your reply. Problem with that is, the dipstick has a flexible plastic measuring tip, which has Hot / Cold marking's ( plus of course, the the actual rod itself is flexible .) So if you push it down, and it reaches the bottom, then the measuring tip will bend, so you wont get the a correct reading. It's my point that the "Black Diamond" on the measuring tip, acts as a stop. So next time you have a trans opened up, can you insert a dipstick into the tube, and see how much emerges in the sump? Of course, if there is no stop, then ( theoretically ) you should be able to push the dipstick so far down the tube, that 6 inches should be visible in the sump? If possible, and you can do this, could you please take a pic and post it here? Many Thanks for your help with this, it will settle the point once and for all.
Best Regards, Jim.
Also gary i took off the trans cooler lines that connects to the radiator and no fluid passes through when i start the engine
Hello Kathy,
First thing you need to do is make sure there is fluid in the trans, this trans should have a filler tube but no dipstick to check fluid level. The dipstick is considered a "tool" and you would either have to purchase it or go to a shop that has one. Reason why i say to check the fluid level is because these transmissions love to leak out of the connector where the wire harness gets plugged into, this connector has been updated a few times. Start with that and let me know how it goes Gary
+Gary Ferraro thanks for the quick reply..so i do have the trans dipstick also fluid is fine i cleaned conductor plate also the valves checked all the linkage, and filled with new atf around 4liters...theres no fluid feeding through the trans cooler lines when i turn the car on..also the code i got was with a standard obd2 with abs scanner and i got p0730..any exsperienced fix would be appreciated..
Ok, so its full of fluid, thats good. Next question are you taking of only one cooler line? and if so is it the return line? (thats the line the fluid will flow out of) The P0730 code is Gear ratio error. Are you disconnecting the line at the radiator? Gary
+Gary Ferraro yes the line at the radiator i did both lines and nothing
Does the car move at all? foward or reverse
Hi Gary, Greetings from Northern Virginia, my apologies for any intrusion. Q: I have a 722.608; w 247K miles drooped trans pan found metal shrapnel. Changed out Transmission Valve Body Conductor Plate TCU filter fluid change. Receiving via MB Star EGS Fault 147 - Sporadically Gear implausible or transmission slipping and 151 Sporadically Gear comparison negative. Target gear not achieved Could you please share with me your thoughts on possible causes and a focus to resolve? I have been using WIS / ASRA related information as a troubleshooting fault case guide. The left rear wheel hub, tire rim, lug nut did get hung up in the housing while driving and may also be a cause. Thanks and Best to you and yours. I use to get out to you're neighborhood often, now only Battery Park, 33 Whitehall
The trans is full, you have the "tool" to check it? How does the car drive? do you feel any slipping?
I have checked the transmission fluid level numerous times when warm @ temperature 80 degrees with the dip stick and it is within the hash marks.The vehicle seems to run fine change gears and then after a period of time starts slipping and going into hydraulic limp mode I believe.
ok, when does it slip? on what shift?
Gary Ferraro - today slipped going from 1st to 2nd gear and then loss of drive. It key reset. Thanks
a friend of mine told me they can be the torque converter I want to know what you think
What speed do you feel this?
when I hit the gas stop when I Let Go little bit star
Certainly sounds like Torque, when your driving and left off the gas, then go back on the gas you get the shudder? What model chrysler to you have?
chrysler 300c tran...722.6
chrysler 300c tran...722.6
2007 E350, dealer said valve body 8000 to fix, at what point will I need to program the transmission, can I just clean all that up and put back together and not have to reprogram? not sure what you meant when you said take info out and put back in, on one of your videos, by the way great videos, thanks
You may have a 722.9 which has the TCM inside the trans, i would need to run your vin number to confirm trans type and also need to know what codes you have,
ok, I will get that info, thanks
Any way videos are great, but cant mess with car cause it belongs to my old lady, as much as I'd want to, but i think best to leave it to a professional , hence computerized issues, and what not......if it were mine I'd follow Gary's video! So i took it in to Henrys mercedes in whittier, the opened it and said rebuild for 3800, dealer wanted from 5000 to 8000. Two year warranty, so Henrys it is. Wish Gary was in Calif! Ent and talked to Henry, seemed to have great disposition as Gary, very clean shop, and dedicated. Let you guys know how it turns out, thanks again Gary
Albert
Thanks for watching, Greetings from New York
good video, how he does it in a shirt and pants without wearing the juice??? i ruin a top just checking the oil!
Lol, Thanks for watching
Thanks very much for the wonderful videos
Thanks for watching Tarence, please subscribe
Gary, great vid, thank you for your invaluable knowledge.
I have a slip from 2nd-3rd. When cold, less of a slip and when hot, definitely slips. I have great power behind all 5 gears, just the 2-3 slip. There was darkish grey material in the bottom of the pan (did not smell burnt), few medium sized pieces of (friction disc?) and I'd say normal fine metallic gunk on the magnet/pan bottom,(nothing large screaming shearing gears, etc.)
I do feel that I should replace 3rd gear friction discs and it sounds that i should replace sprags also however, "What drum are the 3rd gear discs in?" K1, B3, V8 lol.
Btw, my sprinter transmission has only 76k on it. A tranny shop, ditching the van and complete rebuilds are all out of the question. I can only afford to rebuild the one drum, sprags and fluid. Conductor plate is replaced.
Any and all help is appreciated.
Hello,
The K2 clutch comes on in 3rd and stays on for 4th and 5th. The K1 clutch comes on in 2nd and stays on for 3rd and 4th. maybe a lazy solenoid also, the shift solenoids are all the same if you want to swap them around
Big thanks for the super quick response Gary! I was thinking of swapping out solenoids also. Not going to cost me anything to try...I'll post back next week when i try that out. Thank you.
Ok, let me know, there are 3 shift solenoids
Hi Gary, haw can I know the tipe of transmission my 97 C23 2.3L. 4Cylinder has?? I see here You are working in a 722.6 Rodolfo
If you want to e-mail me the vin, i could see if it comes up gsferraro@yahoo.com
I have a 4l30e transmission, (Isuzu Axiom),ther is now gears forward,in reverse no problem!what can it be?
If this does not move foward, look at your band in the back of the transmission. have you ever worked on a 4L80E Trans before? The planetary has to be indexed for reassembly.
for yet there did not work ie all may be due to the rear brake band?
I was told after the oil additives start to slip and then ceased to be included
if the planetaries have rust on them and it's not bad can I just clean the planetaries and reuse them
i would say yes, just clean them good
Gone are the days when you could take a Chrysler 727, put all the parts in a box and shake it really hard. Tip it out and a fully assembled transmission would fall out.. just add fluid.
LOL, thats what my uncle says
“certainly don’t wanna lose that” proceeds to put it on another table then where all the other parts are 😂I would have done the same
goes on a rag i have spread out, Most times when i put something in a safe place i can't find it LOL, thanks for watching
and also i want it to rebuilt but i haven't done any of these.
the problem is that is shifting hard 1-2
So I'd guess this was a pre 99 transmission.
The broken free wheel is a common issue on those
I always change the F1 and F2 sprags
@@GaryFerraro sprags? Sorry non native speaker
Great video Gary, have u seen this fault before? hard downshift 2-1: Whats the bellville snap ring look like?
Case Number: K29132783
Vehicle Issue: Vehicle has a harsh 2-1 down shift.
Year: 2005 | 2006 | 2007
Model: LX - 300 | LX - Magnum | WK - Grand Cherokee | LX - Charger | XK - Commander
Automatic Transmission / Transaxle Model: NAG1 (5spd Automatic - RWD - Electronic Shift - TCM)
System or Component: Automatic Transmission / Transaxle
Symptom:Harshness | Too Hard / Firm / Stiff | Double Bump Engagement | Harsh Engagement | Upshift / Downshift Issues
Transmission Gear or Shift Involved: 2-1 Downshift
Case Verification: No codes are setting. The 2-1 down shift is harsh.
Recommendation: Inspect the K1 clutch Bellville retainer snap ring is seated correctly.
This can prevent the K1 clutch from un-applying fast enough and cause a momentary 3 element fight.
You may want to check for stuck or sticky 1-2, 4-5 shift valves in the valve body before removing the transmission.
Never had this issue before. Belville spring is a thick dished plate.
@@GaryFerraro cheers, i'll open it up and have a look, do you need any special tool to depress the belleville spring to get the circlip on?
My car rolls in park after it was towed. What can possibly be broke?
is this just a rear wheel drive or 4matic
Gary Ferraro the car is rear wheel drive
anyone know where to get check balls fo ford 2001 f150 4r100
+Hollis Smith Maybe online transmission parts supplier(if they sell them seperatly, If not go to your local transmission shop and ask if they have extras
hello I am from Poland I have From a few years of Mercedes Ml in 163 3.2 v6 year 1998 the vehicle has a mileage of 250,000 km I have recently been struggling with the problem of an automatic transmission which goes into emergency mode after heating error on the diagnostic computer sensor sporadic speed sensor error N3 and problem with engine misfiring on 1 2 3 cylinder coils ok ok wires spark sparkling ok catalysts where can there be a problem please help in diagnosis.
Well, you may have 2 problems but a bad running engine can affect the way a transmission works, so the first thing i would do is straighten out your engine issues and see if the transmission problems are resolved. Are Clylinders 1,2 and 3 on the same side?
hello, as you asked the cylinders where the ignition falls, they are on the same side looking from the front of the engine on the left hand cylinders 1 2 3 the other side does not fall out, I just turned the injection, but it also does not think that the wine is after the pressure of fuel ordered expensive road fuel and manomert to measure the pressure of fuel on the strips - coils tested candles new NGK platinium cables ca. catalyst empty humped jets egr checked, also vacuum, I ordered in Mercedes servis intake manifold gasket is hard, I will let you know what to do next when I deposit new pump-pump Fuel in the tank clean as new - I have three MLs in 163 3.2 v6 this all with LPG STAG the rest works well only with this are troubles.
@@pawew.3801 ok, so once the misfires are straighten out see what you have
The problem with ASB 722.6 appeared when I replaced the plug with o-rings, the power supply of the box when I tried to unscrew the socket were damaged-contacts, I realized it and replaced the plate with the new filter and oil for a year was ok now such anomaly - which is an occasional sensor error N3 rotational speed only how hot after a dynamic drive when the moment is stopped, eg 30 min goes into emergency mode after cooling, eg 6 hours, everything is ok
@@pawew.3801 when you say ASB do you mean ABS?
Great videos Garry. You say that the tolerances should be 'tightened up'.
I'm thinking that you are talking about using thicker snap rings in the clutch packs to get to spec? Is a minimum specified clearance better than a mid range clearance? I dont want them too tight to cause problems.D
+alfamontreal100 The clerances vary but, K1, B1, K2, K3, Mimum .020-.030B2 .008-.051, B3, .039-.055. Gary
I got a Chrysler 2006 everything works on my transmission but when the revolutions going down you feel vibrations that I believe the came from my transmission
Wondering if anyone can help me I'm getting like a shudder at low rpms it shifts fine when I shift it in manual mode it goes away it also shudders when I'm slowing down to stop like the torque converter isn't unlocking it's a 06 Dodge charger Daytona with about 130000 yea it's my daily driver
ok, does this happen cold? also as your slowing down, put the car into neutral see if it stops shuddering
Gary Ferraro yea it happens when it's cold
Torque converter clutch apply normally will be commanded when the car is hot, when coming to a stop as you feel the shudder put the car in neutral see if it goes away
Gary Ferraro it dose go away in neutral so that's probably slipping clutch plates I guess that's y it stopps when I put it in manual mode cuz it locks up all my clutches
When you get the shudder at low rpm, how fast are you going?
At the very beginning you didn't say what was the trouble with the transmission!!!
EndofUSA At the begining i didnt know what i was going to find, if you start watching from 6:45 is when i found the problem with the trans. Thanks for watching
Gary Ferraro
what I meant was I am sure the owner of the AT had observed and had complains of what the trouble was, like was it flaring in any of the gears, hard shifting, no shifting, whining sound etc. Thanks
EndofUSA Sorry about that, It had a really bad slip on the 1-2 shift. I found the F1 sprag to be bad, which is the bridge for the 1-2 shift on the 722.6.
Gary Ferraro
thanks.
thank's from Armenia
Your welcome, greetings from new york.
I also do repair transmissions, and if I necessarily for sharing!sorry for myenglish :)
no worries my friend, do you have alot of automatic transmissions there?
yes there is the fact that the parts are very expensive to repair and too expensive
yes we have in the city mostly older model Mercedes 140 124 202 210 190 per Mercedes no problems know all is well,I do not have experience on other machines Opel volskvagen Grand Cherokee Mitsubishi toyota
You were one letter away from being a Ferrari so close no dice on this one .
Nope but i have a family member that is a Ferrari owner
One of the easiest transmissions I've ever torn apart.
Yes, they are nice to work on
Not your greatest showing but we appreciate your efforts.
Marco Navarro Thanks for watching.
Marco Navarro what did you expect, scratch n sniff?
when i go 40 and 50miles
Strange choice of clothing to rebuild a transmission.
My work uniform