Very much how I knit my swatches, except the labelling, I must remember this. Thank you! I never use the swatching method in the machine knitting manuals, their are just too small to be accurate.
It would be far easier to cast on 60 stitches, knit a number of rows (20) checking the stitch size at this stage. Knit a 2 row contrast, knit 60 rows, marking both 21st needles each side of 0 every 6 rows for 60 rows, finish with a 2 row contrast and then a final 20 or so rows in the main colour. Measuring at different points either with a ruler or even easier with a special knitting machine stitch measurement ruler, no counting, just instant stitch and row readings wherever you put the ruler between two yarn tags. Then you can work out an average overall tension for 10cm. At least this is the way I do it.
Just followed the instructions for a perfect start rib and I have to say it looks perfect. It was very tight at first using old thickish 4 ply then I changed to a 3 ply. Can I ask a question could my ribber and main bed be too close? I have set it to get as close as possible to each other and this is the first time using this ribber on my Brother 950i machine.
Is this more accurate than the 40 stitches (marked by thread or holes) by 60 rows? It will be a challenge to count tuck or lace stitches manually. Thank you for the very informative videos.
It is easier because you don't have to count length wise. If you have a contrast color stripe each end of 100 or 50 rows (or 60), no counting is needed. Counting widthwise is pretty easy on just about any fabric. :)
@@theknittingschool I think what naomi is saying is that you don't have to count either direction if you mark the the needles while knitting. Diana Sullivan shows this in her beginner videos: ua-cam.com/video/BsWQEVfsuaE/v-deo.html. She marks needles 21 left and right with contrast yarn every few rows so she just has to measure between the two markers and knows it's 40 needles wide (standard machine). I noticed that my needle count strip even has markers on it that show needles 21 on either side while watching that video :)
Thank you for your video. You clearly demonstrate how to measure the swatch but it is very difficult trying to count tuck or slip stitches Using the green/blue/yellow ruler method to calculate row and stitches depending on the machine , yarn or stitch pattern used alleviates that problem.
Thank you, as a newbie this was most helpful.I will adopt this as my way of swatch making.
Thank you Helen. I wish you would start teaching again.
Thank you, this is so helpful and very well explained!
Thank you for a great video I like how you write it out and explain it as you are doing this.
Very much how I knit my swatches, except the labelling, I must remember this. Thank you! I never use the swatching method in the machine knitting manuals, their are just too small to be accurate.
It would be far easier to cast on 60 stitches, knit a number of rows (20) checking the stitch size at this stage. Knit a 2 row contrast, knit 60 rows, marking both 21st needles each side of 0 every 6 rows for 60 rows, finish with a 2 row contrast and then a final 20 or so rows in the main colour.
Measuring at different points either with a ruler or even easier with a special knitting machine stitch measurement ruler, no counting, just instant stitch and row readings wherever you put the ruler between two yarn tags. Then you can work out an average overall tension for 10cm.
At least this is the way I do it.
Love it 😍
Thanks for sharing it 😊
Thanks for this video, this is super helpful! How would you go about measuring out the needles for other stitches such as 2x2 rib or half cardigan?
I had the same question 🤔
Top erklärt. Danke. Liebe Grüße Heike
Just followed the instructions for a perfect start rib and I have to say it looks perfect. It was very tight at first using old thickish 4 ply then I changed to a 3 ply. Can I ask a question could my ribber and main bed be too close? I have set it to get as close as possible to each other and this is the first time using this ribber on my Brother 950i machine.
Hello ! With which machine have you knitted the brown garnement you’re measuring in the video ? :)
Brilliant!
Is this more accurate than the 40 stitches (marked by thread or holes) by 60 rows? It will be a challenge to count tuck or lace stitches manually. Thank you for the very informative videos.
It is easier because you don't have to count length wise. If you have a contrast color stripe each end of 100 or 50 rows (or 60), no counting is needed. Counting widthwise is pretty easy on just about any fabric. :)
@@theknittingschool I think what naomi is saying is that you don't have to count either direction if you mark the the needles while knitting. Diana Sullivan shows this in her beginner videos: ua-cam.com/video/BsWQEVfsuaE/v-deo.html. She marks needles 21 left and right with contrast yarn every few rows so she just has to measure between the two markers and knows it's 40 needles wide (standard machine).
I noticed that my needle count strip even has markers on it that show needles 21 on either side while watching that video :)
Благодарим!
Thank you for your video. You clearly demonstrate how to measure the swatch but it is very difficult trying to count tuck or slip stitches Using the green/blue/yellow ruler method to calculate row and stitches depending on the machine , yarn or stitch pattern used alleviates that problem.
using this method, you don’t need to count the rows, only the wales, which are pretty easy to count :)