Thank you, Diane, I have been working as a pattern cutter for the last 7 years, never had the need to do blocks as companies provide them. Completely forgot how to draft them these are great tutorials for who has already some knowledge. Simple and clear, other tutorials are so confusing and some also seem wrong to me, Thank you thousands! :)
Thank you so very much for making this tutorial. I made my very first pants block pattern and continued to sew up a pair. They are pure joy to wear because they fit so well. Your instruction and PDF sheet are very kind and easy to follow. You are a great teacher. God bless you!
I love this woman so much thank you for sharing your knowledge with us I was struggling for the past 2 years to do the basic patterns but after finding your pdfs and these vids its no longer a struggle and I will continue with the sewing lessons that are on the channel It saves me from going to private schools and pay money to get confused thank you so much
like everyone I must thank you for your demonstration on how to make a pants block pattern. I have never attempted this before. So this was very much a challenge for me. But your handouts and watching your video at least 3 times....and tearing up my first two attempts ... I can proudly say I did it. Now to see if it fits. .so thank you from the bottom of my heart. Your demos, and handouts are so useful and easy to follow even for me. some of my calculations were off, but I managed to get back on track. the best I have seen on youtube.
Thank you Diane for your quick replies and fast solutions. I've never seen such a intelligent woman like you. It seems that you have a solution for every problem related to tailoring. 👍👍
Hi, Diane, it is the first time I watch your YourTube tutorials, I find your ones are very precise and easy to follow. I become a subscriber, and looking forward to gain more knowledge of pattern making, and altering the basic block. Thank you so much for the effort and it is so beneficial to those cannot attend a class such as these.
Hi Diane.. I finished doing the pant pattern following your video instructions... Now completed the stitching of it. Wow!!! I'm so happy wearing it. It's soooo soooo comfortable.. Never ever I've been this comfortable in a pant!! Thank you so much 😙😗😚 You are amazing.. Your teaching skills are outstanding!!👍👏
The hip of the pants will be about 5 cm higher than the crotch level. At crotch level, on the front, we add 1.5 cm ease each side of the grain line, but, you come back inside 1/4+1 to trace center front, so (+3&-4.3-1.3 on hip) On back, you add 1/20hip (+4.7) only on side seam, the other side4.7 & 2.5 is crotch. Finally, at the hip, front -1.3 & back +4.7=+3.4 ease on a half pants or +6.8 ease all around. I hope my answer makes it a little more clear, Diane
Great tutorial and the pdf is do helpful.Thank you for the wonderful work you have done.What would I change the crotch line,if I wanted to make a narrow pant in the ankle???
Hi Diane, your videos have being so helpful, thank you for all your efforts. Please can you kindly make a video on how to draft jacket with front piece, side piece and back piece all separate. I have been finding it difficult to draft. Thank you in advance
Thanks Diane I did the pattern and it came out great but if I want a more slimmed fitted pant I do I go about it and thanks for all your tutorials you are the best and happy new year
Just remember to remove equally on the back & front and inseam & side seam. a good idea is to compare the measurement with one of your pants that you like the leg.
Yes, I just did 2 videos using this pants block. 1 how to make it a sport pants, eliminate darts 2 the skinny leg next how to make the back yoke to eliminate the last dart and do the back patch pocket Diane
@@DianeDezieltoolfully Yes, thank you for showing modifications to create different looks. I would like to use this good fit to adjust commercial patterns but do not see how to do this for pants.
Hoi Diane, I recently round you on UA-cam, so glad i deed. I learn a lot of you! Thank you. Although you are very clear, i have a question about lowering the back crotch. Coupé you please explain what to do to correct the grainline. I made a wig to compensate the inseam. Hope to learn more, merci beaucoup !
Amazing tutorial very easy to follow thank you so much! I will most likely get your grading sets because no point in suffering and doing it on my own lol I have some base slopers but it is so time consuming.
Hi Christopher, Here in Montreal, we are SO bilingual french and english and centimetre and inches. We convert to metric in 1970, but still use imperial for many things. Diane
That just goes to show how smart you guys are. Centimeters seems easier to work with, I'm currently experimenting with both. For your digital pattern set is it the female bodice and pants only or male as well? I'm definitely planning to get it to make my life easier. I have just a random set depending on what I made for clients right now.
Hi Diane, Sincere gratitude from my heart for this pattern! I have been disappointed with all other pants tutorial on youtube! I used your pants block tutorial and my fitted pants turned out perfect! The only thing that I did differently was connecting the waist point directly to the crotch point with a smooth curve. Thanks again for the tutorial. God bless you!
Thank u so much... but I do not understand the part of front waist. I thought we were suppose to take the measurement of waist circumference, pls explain what front waist measurement is to me.. Thank you so much, I will be waiting for your reply ❤❤❤❤
Hello Danie and thanks for the video. Why for the back pattern are we adding 2.5cm on knee and 2cm on bottom opening? That gives a total of 5 cm and 4cm allowance after joining. Is that not too much. I understand back must be bigger but the allowance seems to much
For the drafting of the back,in the video you start from the center front and count 1/20 of waist plus 2 cm towards point A,but in the pdf you start from point A and count the same amount in the right.which one is correct?
Hi Diane! Just found your channel and am following along with your AMAZING and clear videos! I am going to be making the pant in order to follow along with your elastic waistband shorts tutorial. I can't wait to see how it turns out! I do have one question in the tutorial you say for the front waist - 1/2 front waist + ease + dart. However, for the back waist you say 1/4 of back waist + darts + east. I think you meant to say 1/4 of total waist OR 1/2 back waist. Right??? I'm somewhat of a beginner at pattern drafting, so I am still doubting myself a lot.
Hi - Had another question. in the pattern , you have mentioned to take the full length. What about the belt at the waist line. do we have to subtract 2 in or so from the total length. My drawing on paper is almost ready.! thanks again
Thank you your video is very helpful! I would like to know how to get the front waist length? Is it the (total waist/2)? So is front waist length same as back waist length. Thanks in advance! :)
Hello Kate, the front, it's waist divide by 4 plus ease (0.5 cm) plus (0.75 cm) to move the side seam towards the back The back, it's waist divide by 4 plus ease (0.5 cm) minus (0.75 cm) to move the side seam towards the back Diane
To get the right placement of the knee level, you measure up from the bottom of the pants, so in order to get that measurement correct: is the bottom of the pants at the ankle level or at the base of the foot/the floor? Thank you for a great tutorial!
Thank you so much for your videos have just finished the pants pattern your patterns drafting is an answer to my prayers. Two questions 1. If I wanted to make palazzo pants where would I start the widening of then pants? 2. How would I go about making high waisted pants without using a waist band how high up would I need to go and how would it affect the darts, I keen to make pants from the 1950s so any help would be appreciated. I only found this channel 2weeks ago and have watched nearly all your tutorials. I have also drafted bodice. sleeve, skirt and now pants. And now for the sewing. Thank you so much again am keen to see more videos and advice you are a wonderful teacher. Have a wonderful day. Cheers Tricia.
Hi Tricia, to make palazzo, I would simply pivot the waist dart at the bottom, then if it's not enough, you could add to the side seam and a little to the inseam (same measure bk &front) To pivot, start with the front, tracing from 1st side of the dart to grain line at bottom, than close the dart an trace the other side until grain line at bottom. measure the opening so you could do the same opening on the back leg. on the back you have 2 darts, I would pick the deepest one, trace parallel to grain line passing by this dart pivot. do as front, except, stop when you reach the front opening measure at bottom. you will have a tiny dart left. Last, eliminate the 2cm dart by adding it, 1cm each side of the tiny dart. I will make a video on this, soon. Diane
For the high waist, add parallel to the waist, 4 to 5 cm, than for the darts, you continu each side of each dart, square from the waist line going up. Same thing at side seam, square up. Indication for the darts sewing: notches on top, punch holes 3mm inside, each side of the dart, original punch hole end of dart. Assemble a prototype, a shorts is good, because most of the time there is a little correction to make at the waist side seam area to get a nice, smooth waist line. Diane
Thank you for your excellent explanation. Can you please tell me if it is necessary to add ease when the fabric has a moderate stretch ,cotton fabric with 10 % of elastan.
Hello Brigita, For woven fabric with elastan, even 1 or 2 % you do not need ease, 10% is very stretch, you could even go smaller a little. I think a basic block should have ease, than you modify it for style and fabric, you dont have to go over the construction every time. Diane
Hi Diane! Thank you so much for this well explained tutorial, I love the construction of your patterns! I have a doubt about the size of this pattern because some previous blocks I made (that fit not great but ok) are pretty smaller than this pattern, I mean the front is really close but the back of your pattern is 6cm wider than my old ones, does that sound ok? What is the fit of this pants? Thank you very much in advance! Stef 😘
Hello The difference might be the ease, this construction is for woven fabric, I know the back crotch looks long but the fit and confort is good. If your not sure, just try the top part, like a short. Diane
Hello Nwoye, Yes you could do fitted jeans from this block 1st you have to remove the ease at hip level. 2. eliminate front dart (1.5 at side seam and 5mm at center front) 3. eliminate back darts, for a good fit if you have round buttock, I would eliminate the small one and a little of the big one like this ( 1.5 cm at side seam and 1 cm at center back) the rest of the big one I would pivot it in the yoke line. 4. tighten the leg, The best thing to do is to compare an existing fitted jeans you have to the pants block, at the knee and at bottom and also the calf. Divide the difference by 4 and remove that 1/4 on each side of each leg (front & back) This is for sure a good video idea, but I get so many request, I don't know when I will be able to do it. Diane
I just love all your videos and your method of pivoting makes adapting a block pattern sooo much easier. I still struggle though to get a decent fit with pants. Can I ask, when you measure down from the waist to the chair whilst sitting, do you measure straight at a right-angle or do you follow the body contours? Thanks for all your highly instructional videos, I’ve watched them all.
Hi Woodcat, Thanks for your comment, I measure in straight line, but if you think you need a little longer (this is sur mesure) you could add to your construction, even after it's finish. trace a line 90° from grain line, just over the crotch curve, cut and add what you need. For the fitting you could try short. Diane
Does the legs always have to be 20cm wide for this pattern? Is it possible that I will just widen it to the width that I want? I saw your palazzo pant pattern video, but palazzo pants is really big and I just want the legs a little wider. Thank you for your time!
Hello Mam i found that your video lessons and pdf have some difference. Video lessons show pants measurement of back which is 1/20 of hip plus 2 cm from left side of center back while pdf suggest same measure from right side both has different shapes could you suggest something
Hello, could you help me with a problem I’m having please? So my waist is bigger than the one in the video so when I’m connecting the crotch to the waist, instead of curving the way it does in the video, it curves the other way like this > instead of this < like in the video, please could you help me with this please?
I am studying your tutorial..its so amazing .but I have question, may I know front waist n back waist is taken separately or not ?..#10 - 1/2 of front waist + 2cm+ 0.5cm=20.5cm.if so. Front waist measurement is 36cm.therefore waist circles measurement is 72 cm or 28.5 inches. but #14,15 & 16- 1/20 of waist + 2 cm=5.45cm ,so it means 3.45 is 1/20 of waist n waist measurement is 69 cm or 27 2/8 inches..🙂
Hello Linda, In this recipe of o basic pants block, we do on purpose, make the back inseam top part a little shorter. When I first learn that, I also find it weird, but there is 2 good reasons, 1. the back inseam is more bias, so it does stretch and you dont even feel it when you sew. 2. It gives a better fit to cover your buttock, because it allow you to give more length to the back crotch without going out more. This little detail is not done on sport wear. Diane
Hi! I’m a curvy girl, small waist and bigger hips and butt. This block is for a curvy girl? Or which modifications should be done to get a better fit? Can you consider make a video to explain how to make a pants sloper for curvys??? I’m having such a hard time with that. Thank you!!
thanks for this great pattern instruction it is clear and easiest way to make comfortable pant but I want to ask is there is special instructions or tips for plus size
Hi Damardar,I will make one (men's sport pants) by measuring. It's my 2nd project, 1st I will show how to make a drop shoulder/flat head sleeve. so most probably next weekend. Diane
Dianr, thank you again for your hard work! On the bottom of pg 21 of your instructions, you give conditions for lowering the point of the back crotch. I have looked and looked but haven't found any demonstration of how to do this. Could you explain? Would I be lowering from point B7? I am unsure. Thanks.
Hello Crissidoll from B7 you have a line square down. On that line, from the crotch point you found at point 20. ( C1 to B1 - 0.5 cm) Drop the back crotch point 0.1 cm per 1cm extra over 10 cm (in the difference between 1/2 hip minus 1/2 waist For example; waist 72 hip 104 1/2 waist 36 1/2 hip 52 52 - 36 = 16. 16 - 10 = 6. So you would drop 0.6 cm When the hip is bigger, you usually get a very angle back inseam so it's almost bias and it's stretchy. Usually you don't even notice that the back is shorter when you sew. Diane
@@DianeDezieltoolfully Thank you so much l was literally just re-viewing some of your content, including this video. You are, for real, my sewing teacher! Forever grateful. 🖤
Hello Rose, To make low waist, -take you pants block and close all your darts (temporary, so pin them) -put you side seam together, just the top part, (from the waist to about 5 cm down), seam line on seam line. -trace the lower waist, in a nice continuous line, from center front to center back, keeping 90° for 1 or 2 cm both ends. We usually drop more on the front than in the back, let's say 5 cm front and 3 cm back, because when you sit the waist goes down in the back. Also, for lower waist, the waist band should be shape. This is a good video idea. Diane
@@DianeDezieltoolfully thanks a lot 😘...yes please try to do a video about low waist pants. ..I am eager to watch it.. especially when the teacher is you..you have a nice personality and a nice way of explanation. .I love you
Hello Rose, When the waist band is up from the natural waist, it could be a straight piece, but for low waist, it has to follow the shape of the body that is smaller to bigger towards the hip. So the waist band should be more like the shape of a waist facing or let's say the part that you remove on top of the pants but parallel to the new waist line. Diane
Thank you for the tutorial, but I tried this pattern and the hip is way too tight. Looks like you took out of the hip measurement in front to cut out the crotch. Please can you explain better because when I measured after making the pattern, the hip becomes 35inches meanwhile my hip measurement is 37 inches.
Ok, thank you Diane, but I did exactly what you did but measured in inches which is what I'm used to. But I will check again regardless. I watched another UA-cam video where the person starts the crotch at quarter of the hip measurement as against yours which starts 2inches into the quarter of the hip measurement (for my size)... what is your professional opinion regarding this? I'm sorry I'm asking so many questions but Im confused. Thankyou for your reply.
This is exactly d issue I observed while drafting d pattern but hope to adjust it by adding my curve outside rather than taking from inside so it sizes me.
Hello Benjamin, yes you could use this recipe for both, the only difference is that for men you don't need the front dart and in the back you need only one dart. Diane
Hi Benjamin, As you must know, in sport wear pants, there is not much difference, since for both we eliminate the darts, but in ladys jeans, there is a bigger difference between the waist and the hip. They now some time manage to transfer part of the back dart into the yoke for curvy woman. In dressy pants, the main difference is the 2 to 3 darts to have a better fit in lady pants, while in men's pants there is only 1 in the back, since they have, just like kids a small difference between waist and hip. Also, when you do the men fitting, each one decide where they want there waist to reach (usually bellow the belly), so you end up with lower front to keep the balance. Often, in dressy pants, they also want a little more ease ( 1 to 2 cm ) at the hip level and lower crotch (1 to 3 cm ) for confort. I hope this could help. Diane
Hi Despoina, I think the basic pants should be with the darts , (except if your waist is thick, and doing the construction gives you a side seam that is straight or go out). But after to make a more sport pants or if you have a little stretch in your fabric, you eliminate some, like the front one and the small one in the back. The reason is that if you eliminate the dart your side seam is going to be too curve, so when I eliminate (those 2 darts) I usually reduce the hip by 5mm back & front. At the waist, on the back, I go in 1cm on both side, than cancel the small dart. On the front, I go in 5mm at center front, and 1.5 at side seam. (I should do a video) Diane
Hello Diane, I watched your video of “Pant Block Pattern” and it’s quite helpful. My problem is that, whenever I stitched a pant for myself it becomes tight from my belly, because I have bit heavy belly. Can you please guide me that, what should I do or how much loosing should I keep? If you need to know my measurements I can forward to you later. Thank you very much. Bye for now!
Hello Safia, Yes I would like to have your measurements to give you the proper answer, but for now, I could say it's important that your side seam remain straight, so you must had fabric where it's needed, only on the front or all around. Diane
Diane Deziel - Hello Diane, Thank you for your prompt reply and I’m so happy that you are trying to help me. I’m struggling this problem from a very long time. These are my measurements all in inches:- My pant ready length is 38 inches, hip/belly round is 46 inches, waist round is 40 inches, Thigh round is 24 inches, knee round is 16 inches and pant down round where we hem15 inches. The front crotch is 14 inches and back crotch is 17 inches. (The crotch area I keep long because I use padded underwear). So I hope with your kind guidance I’ll be able to make my straight pant correct. Thank you very much for your kind help. Bye for now!
Hello Diane, As per your request, I have forwarded my pant measurements and waiting for your guidance that how should I draft pattern for my pant. I would appreciate if you could help me in this regard. Thank you very much. Bye!
Oh Dear Diane, Thank you very much for remembering me. Few hours ago I stitched a new pant with different measurements but I failed. Its become very tight from the abdomen (belly). I myself very surprised, that where I'm making a same mistake that my pant gets tight from the belly only. No problem dear Diane take your time and I'll be waiting for your kind guidance. Thanks and Bye for now!
Thanx Diane for the tutorial, please I beg for your pardon the formulae you use at the back; distance from center front connecting to the crotch then back extension at the waist, is it 1/28 (waist)+2 ?
Hello Sorry for my big accent, It's 1/20 and you could get the free PDF in my six site Direct link; dianedezie7.wixsite.com/toolfully/free-download Diane
Hello Emmanuel, I would say you could use the technic for both, BUT for men you don't need front dart and the back should have only one dart, most probably the smallest value, place where the big one is. Diane
Hello Pooja To narrow the pants & keep it balance, you must remove the same amount on both side of both legs. the measurements could be different at the bottom and at the knee, to nothing at hip level. Diane
Diane Deziel Thank you Diane. So I have to reduce only knee and bottom width. Thank you so much. You are wonderful. Honestly, your channel is the only channel I watch most on youtube. 😃
Diane Deziel Can you please tell me how did you take the measurement of bottom width because when I made pattern, it has really wide bottom, so I think I'm doing some mistake here and if I reduce the width of knee and bottom then angle of side seam and inseam is also changes, which changes the whole pattern. Please explain how do you measure width of bottom. I'm confused. 😶
Hi Lily, it is a lady size 10 from Canada, body measurements: bust 93 cm, waist 69 cm and hip 94 cm. The block construction usually have ease, bust + 2 to 4 cm, waist + 2 cm and hip + 2 to 4cm. Since every single company or manufacture have there own measure, even different from one style the an other and from one season to an other, and it's also depending on the fabric used like the percentage of elastic fibre, I would say it is in some chart a 36 an in other a 38. I hope this could help. Diane
Hi mam thanx for your great information.. can i ask you. This pattern okey with big size and this pattern is the basic pattern which we can make modify it for other models..thanx
Hello Amee, Yes this is a basic pants block, and you could use this recipe for bigger size BUT most probably to keep a curve side seam on the top part you are going to need to eliminate the front dart and the small dart on the back. Diane
Diane where can I find the pants pattern draft. I have been to you site but could not find it. Please tell me where to find it, please. I love the way you draft them, I want to try your way. Ali Pye
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Thank you, Diane, I have been working as a pattern cutter for the last 7 years, never had the need to do blocks as companies provide them. Completely forgot how to draft them these are great tutorials for who has already some knowledge. Simple and clear, other tutorials are so confusing and some also seem wrong to me, Thank you thousands! :)
i just finished drafting & sewing the muslin, and the fit is perfect!! i’m so happy. thank you Diane!!
Thank you so very much for making this tutorial. I made my very first pants block pattern and continued to sew up a pair. They are pure joy to wear because they fit so well. Your instruction and PDF sheet are very kind and easy to follow. You are a great teacher. God bless you!
I love this woman so much thank you for sharing your knowledge with us I was struggling for the past 2 years to do the basic patterns but after finding your pdfs and these vids its no longer a struggle and I will continue with the sewing lessons that are on the channel It saves me from going to private schools and pay money to get confused
thank you so much
i adore your videos Diane! feeling really lucky i get to learn from someone so skilled. thank you!
this is amazing. so much better than most design schools! thankyou!
Everything you do is exceptional. You are the only person I have given so many likes. You deserve it.
Thank you and I do appreciate it, it my motivation to continue. Diane
like everyone I must thank you for your demonstration on how to make a pants block pattern. I have never attempted this before. So this was very much a challenge for me. But your handouts and watching your video at least 3 times....and tearing up my first two attempts ... I can proudly say I did it. Now to see if it fits. .so thank you from the bottom of my heart. Your demos, and handouts are so useful and easy to follow even for me. some of my calculations were off, but I managed to get back on track. the best I have seen on youtube.
Thank you Diane for your quick replies and fast solutions. I've never seen such a intelligent woman like you. It seems that you have a solution for every problem related to tailoring. 👍👍
Pooja Agarwal شكرااااا
Pooja Agarwal شكرااااا
.jean and diamond outfits
Thank you so much for work and time you are spending. I am very interesting in your videos
Best pant block I have ever made...THANK YOU SOOOO MUCH💕
Hi, Diane, it is the first time I watch your YourTube tutorials, I find your ones are very precise and easy to follow. I become a subscriber, and looking forward to gain more knowledge of pattern making, and altering the basic block. Thank you so much for the effort and it is so beneficial to those cannot attend a class such as these.
This is the single most comprehensive tutorial I have come across. Thank you!
You are wonderful - super fit for the pants, but I still need to learn how to use the sloper. Thank you so very much.
Hi Diane..
I finished doing the pant pattern following your video instructions...
Now completed the stitching of it.
Wow!!! I'm so happy wearing it.
It's soooo soooo comfortable..
Never ever I've been this comfortable in a pant!!
Thank you so much 😙😗😚
You are amazing..
Your teaching skills are outstanding!!👍👏
Thank you for your clear instructions and PDF reference!
love your videos Diane!!!
Merci beaucoup Diane, pour cette vidéo très utile ! Je vais pouvoir adapter ce modèle sur-mersure à l'infini 💚
Thank you for this tutorial. Well explained. Very good work.
I love your videos! They are so clear and helpful. Thanks a lot for sharing them with us 🌹
Love your teaching style. Thank you so much
Merci encore une fois Diane pour ce vidéo, j'attends avec impatience la version française. Bonne journée.
This is so, so helpful! I'm getting ready to use my very first pattern and it's so overwhelming. Thank you so much!
My pleasure!
Can you please explain front rise,back rise & hip measurement?
The hip of the pants will be about 5 cm higher than the crotch level. At crotch level, on the front, we add 1.5 cm ease each side of the grain line, but, you come back inside 1/4+1 to trace center front, so (+3&-4.3-1.3 on hip) On back, you add 1/20hip (+4.7) only on side seam, the other side4.7 & 2.5 is crotch.
Finally, at the hip, front -1.3 & back +4.7=+3.4 ease on a half pants or +6.8 ease all around.
I hope my answer makes it a little more clear, Diane
Many thanks for the prompt reply Diane :)
We appreciate your support and thank you once again for helping us.....!!!!!
plz mam Draft a Mens Shorts Pattern step by step with a standards garment measurement spec sheet including all information.......!!!!
Thank you for your fast reply.You are an amazing teacher.
Thank you Diane, wonderful tutorial.
Great tutorial and the pdf is do helpful.Thank you for the wonderful work you have done.What would I change the crotch line,if I wanted to make a narrow pant in the ankle???
Your amazing! Am lost but slowing getting it. Thank you very for your videos
Thanks for your comment, the block construction is not an easy task.
Diane
Hi Diane, your videos have being so helpful, thank you for all your efforts. Please can you kindly make a video on how to draft jacket with front piece, side piece and back piece all separate. I have been finding it difficult to draft. Thank you in advance
very very useful and valuable videos you given us. thank you and God bless you teacher.
You are soo fabulous for doing this!!!
Hello
Thank you for this video. I wanted to know if the same method works for plus size pants - like Hip size around 50 and waist around 45.
Thanks Diane I did the pattern and it came out great but if I want a more slimmed fitted pant I do I go about it and thanks for all your tutorials you are the best and happy new year
Just remember to remove equally on the back & front and inseam & side seam. a good idea is to compare the measurement with one of your pants that you like the leg.
Diane Deziel thanks you're the best
Thank you so much for this tutorial
Thank you very much for the generous sharing.
Will you please consider doing a video showing us how to use this Sloper on a commercial pattern? Thank you for your videos!
Yes, I just did 2 videos using this pants block.
1 how to make it a sport pants, eliminate darts
2 the skinny leg
next how to make the back yoke to eliminate the last dart and do the back patch pocket
Diane
@@DianeDezieltoolfully Yes, thank you for showing modifications to create different looks. I would like to use this good fit to adjust commercial patterns but do not see how to do this for pants.
Hoi Diane,
I recently round you on UA-cam, so glad i deed. I learn a lot of you! Thank you. Although you are very clear, i have a question about lowering the back crotch. Coupé you please explain what to do to correct the grainline. I made a wig to compensate the inseam.
Hope to learn more, merci beaucoup !
You’re awesome as always Diane!! ❤️❤️❤️
Rất vui được làm quen với bạn
Amazing tutorial very easy to follow thank you so much! I will most likely get your grading sets because no point in suffering and doing it on my own lol I have some base slopers but it is so time consuming.
Hi Christopher,
I know grading is not the fun part, design and creation are!
Diane
I love the sewing part but since I measure in inches, grading and pattern making can be a nuisance.
Hi Christopher,
Here in Montreal, we are SO bilingual french and english and centimetre and inches. We convert to metric in 1970, but still use imperial for many things. Diane
That just goes to show how smart you guys are. Centimeters seems easier to work with, I'm currently experimenting with both. For your digital pattern set is it the female bodice and pants only or male as well? I'm definitely planning to get it to make my life easier. I have just a random set depending on what I made for clients right now.
Very helpful. Thank you
Hello Diane, thanks a lot for these instructions! life savers :) please how do I get the pdf? The website is not available. Thanks a lot
Hi Diane, Sincere gratitude from my heart for this pattern! I have been disappointed with all other pants tutorial on youtube! I used your pants block tutorial and my fitted pants turned out perfect! The only thing that I did differently was connecting the waist point directly to the crotch point with a smooth curve. Thanks again for the tutorial. God bless you!
Thank u so much... but I do not understand the part of front waist. I thought we were suppose to take the measurement of waist circumference, pls explain what front waist measurement is to me.. Thank you so much, I will be waiting for your reply ❤❤❤❤
Best pant drafting video. Can you demonstrate how to add a pleat to the pants
Hello Penol
Yes this is important it's coming back to fashion.
Diane
good tutorial. have a nice day.
Does this method can be used for men's pants?
Hello Danie and thanks for the video. Why for the back pattern are we adding 2.5cm on knee and 2cm on bottom opening? That gives a total of 5 cm and 4cm allowance after joining. Is that not too much. I understand back must be bigger but the allowance seems to much
Easy to understand. Thank you so much..😘😘😘
For the drafting of the back,in the video you start from the center front and count 1/20 of waist plus 2 cm towards point A,but in the pdf you start from point A and count the same amount in the right.which one is correct?
How I manually showing sym axis and symmetrize in pant waist pattern? Please send me a easy vedeo for your kind
Hi Diane! Just found your channel and am following along with your AMAZING and clear videos! I am going to be making the pant in order to follow along with your elastic waistband shorts tutorial. I can't wait to see how it turns out!
I do have one question in the tutorial you say for the front waist - 1/2 front waist + ease + dart. However, for the back waist you say 1/4 of back waist + darts + east. I think you meant to say 1/4 of total waist OR 1/2 back waist. Right??? I'm somewhat of a beginner at pattern drafting, so I am still doubting myself a lot.
I have the exact same question....
And yes Diane Deziel is wonderful. Thank you.
Did you ladies ever figure it out? I am stuck on this same point. I don’t know what she means Front and back waist calculations
Can we use this same pattern for shorts ?
I really want to make this block but confused about where to find the pdf
Hi - Had another question. in the pattern , you have mentioned to take the full length. What about the belt at the waist line. do we have to subtract 2 in or so from the total length. My drawing on paper is almost ready.! thanks again
Is this pant block without the waistband
Thank you your video is very helpful! I would like to know how to get the front waist length? Is it the (total waist/2)? So is front waist length same as back waist length. Thanks in advance! :)
Hello Kate,
the front, it's waist divide by 4 plus ease (0.5 cm) plus (0.75 cm) to move the side seam towards the back
The back, it's waist divide by 4 plus ease (0.5 cm) minus (0.75 cm) to move the side seam towards the back
Diane
Hello Diane, can you please provide a link on you Wix site of full image of what these block pants look like once complete please!
Hello Jea,
here, I just put my new PDF for all blocks, much improve!
Direct link; dianedezie7.wixsite.com/toolfully/free-downloadDiane
To get the right placement of the knee level, you measure up from the bottom of the pants, so in order to get that measurement correct: is the bottom of the pants at the ankle level or at the base of the foot/the floor? Thank you for a great tutorial!
I measure from the waist to about 2 cm from the floor. All the informations and steps available in free down load on my site toolfully.com
Thank you so much!
Thank you so much for your videos have just finished the pants pattern your patterns drafting is an answer to my prayers. Two questions 1. If I wanted to make palazzo pants where would I start the widening of then pants? 2. How would I go about making high waisted pants without using a waist band how high up would I need to go and how would it affect the darts, I keen to make pants from the 1950s so any help would be appreciated. I only found this channel 2weeks ago and have watched nearly all your tutorials. I have also drafted bodice. sleeve, skirt and now pants. And now for the sewing. Thank you so much again am keen to see more videos and advice you are a wonderful teacher. Have a wonderful day. Cheers Tricia.
Hi Tricia, to make palazzo, I would simply pivot the waist dart at the bottom, then if it's not enough, you could add to the side seam and a little to the inseam (same measure bk &front)
To pivot, start with the front, tracing from 1st side of the dart to grain line at bottom, than close the dart an trace the other side until grain line at bottom. measure the opening so you could do the same opening on the back leg. on the back you have 2 darts, I would pick the deepest one, trace parallel to grain line passing by this dart pivot. do as front, except, stop when you reach the front opening measure at bottom. you will have a tiny dart left. Last, eliminate the 2cm dart by adding it, 1cm each side of the tiny dart. I will make a video on this, soon.
Diane
For the high waist, add parallel to the waist, 4 to 5 cm, than for the darts, you continu each side of each dart, square from the waist line going up. Same thing at side seam, square up.
Indication for the darts sewing: notches on top, punch holes 3mm inside, each side of the dart, original punch hole end of dart.
Assemble a prototype, a shorts is good, because most of the time there is a little correction to make at the waist side seam area to get a nice, smooth waist line. Diane
Thank you so muchI would love that. Thank you for your quick response I do appreciate it . Cheers Tricia.
Thank you so much for this tutorial!!
Please Ma, does the pattern apply for plus size woman with "bigger lower bellies" or do we need to add some allowance at the lower waist area
Thank you for your excellent explanation. Can you please tell me if it is necessary to add ease when the fabric has a moderate stretch ,cotton fabric with 10 % of elastan.
Hello Brigita, For woven fabric with elastan, even 1 or 2 % you do not need ease, 10% is very stretch, you could even go smaller a little. I think a basic block should have ease, than you modify it for style and fabric, you dont have to go over the construction every time. Diane
Hi Diane! Thank you so much for this well explained tutorial, I love the construction of your patterns! I have a doubt about the size of this pattern because some previous blocks I made (that fit not great but ok) are pretty smaller than this pattern, I mean the front is really close but the back of your pattern is 6cm wider than my old ones, does that sound ok? What is the fit of this pants?
Thank you very much in advance!
Stef 😘
Hello
The difference might be the ease, this construction is for woven fabric, I know the back crotch looks long but the fit and confort is good. If your not sure, just try the top part, like a short.
Diane
I can't find the pant block pattern on the wixsite and it's instructions? Only a bodice sloper...please help
There is a new Pdf very complete and improve "The construction of the basic templates" With all the pieces
Diane
Thank you so much for sharing your information
Hello Ma.
Thanks so much for this tutorial . please can this pattern be used to make fitted jeans?
Hello Nwoye,
Yes you could do fitted jeans from this block
1st you have to remove the ease at hip level.
2. eliminate front dart (1.5 at side seam and 5mm at center front)
3. eliminate back darts, for a good fit if you have round buttock, I would eliminate the small one and a little of the big one like this ( 1.5 cm at side seam and 1 cm at center back) the rest of the big one I would pivot it in the yoke line.
4. tighten the leg, The best thing to do is to compare an existing fitted jeans you have to the pants block, at the knee and at bottom and also the calf. Divide the difference by 4 and remove that 1/4 on each side of each leg (front & back)
This is for sure a good video idea, but I get so many request, I don't know when I will be able to do it.
Diane
@@DianeDezieltoolfully Thanks Ma
I just love all your videos and your method of pivoting makes adapting a block pattern sooo much easier. I still struggle though to get a decent fit with pants. Can I ask, when you measure down from the waist to the chair whilst sitting, do you measure straight at a right-angle or do you follow the body contours? Thanks for all your highly instructional videos, I’ve watched them all.
Hi Woodcat, Thanks for your comment,
I measure in straight line, but if you think you need a little longer (this is sur mesure) you could add to your construction, even after it's finish. trace a line 90° from grain line, just over the crotch curve, cut and add what you need. For the fitting you could try short. Diane
Does the legs always have to be 20cm wide for this pattern? Is it possible that I will just widen it to the width that I want? I saw your palazzo pant pattern video, but palazzo pants is really big and I just want the legs a little wider. Thank you for your time!
Hello Chau
You could do the leg wider no problem.
Diane
Hello Mam i found that your video lessons and pdf have some difference. Video lessons show pants measurement of back which is 1/20 of hip plus 2 cm from left side of center back while pdf suggest same measure from right side both has different shapes could you suggest something
Can I adapt this pattern to cigarette pants?
Thank you very much for this information
merci beaucoup Diane !!!!
la version en français cette semaine
Hello, could you help me with a problem
I’m having please? So my waist is bigger than the one in the video so when I’m connecting the crotch to the waist, instead of curving the way it does in the video, it curves the other way like this > instead of this < like in the video, please could you help me with this please?
I am studying your tutorial..its so amazing .but I have question, may I know front waist n back waist is taken separately or not ?..#10 - 1/2 of front waist + 2cm+ 0.5cm=20.5cm.if so. Front waist measurement is 36cm.therefore waist circles measurement is 72 cm or 28.5 inches. but #14,15 & 16- 1/20 of waist + 2 cm=5.45cm ,so it means 3.45 is 1/20 of waist n waist measurement is 69 cm or 27 2/8 inches..🙂
Diane, why you don't check whether the inner seam for the front and back is the same? If not, it will be difficult to match when sewing!
Hello Linda,
In this recipe of o basic pants block, we do on purpose, make the back inseam top part a little shorter. When I first learn that, I also find it weird, but there is 2 good reasons,
1. the back inseam is more bias, so it does stretch and you dont even feel it when you sew.
2. It gives a better fit to cover your buttock, because it allow you to give more length to the back crotch without going out more.
This little detail is not done on sport wear.
Diane
Oh, that's why! Tq for your explanation Diane! I gotta experiment n see my self whether 1cm diff will make the fabric hug the butt better 😘
thanks a lot I did it ..it's amazing 😍 are these steps fit for big sizes???
Hi! I’m a curvy girl, small waist and bigger hips and butt. This block is for a curvy girl? Or which modifications should be done to get a better fit? Can you consider make a video to explain how to make a pants sloper for curvys??? I’m having such a hard time with that. Thank you!!
thanks for this great pattern instruction it is clear and easiest way to make comfortable pant but I want to ask is there is special instructions or tips for plus size
Can someone please explain to me why the grain line is 105cm long?
So helpful! Thank you.
Hi diane, from Croatia... Do you have a video, or any kind of instruction for man pants pattern.. pleeeease.. :-)
Hi Damardar,I will make one (men's sport pants) by measuring. It's my 2nd project, 1st I will show how to make a drop shoulder/flat head sleeve.
so most probably next weekend. Diane
I know it’s been seven years since you did this video. IS THERE ANYWAY YOU COULD DO IT AGAIN in INCHES?BECAUSE THE Centimetre is VERY CONFUSING.
Great thank you
Dianr, thank you again for your hard work!
On the bottom of pg 21 of your instructions, you give conditions for lowering the point of the back crotch. I have looked and looked but haven't found any demonstration of how to do this. Could you explain? Would I be lowering from point B7? I am unsure.
Thanks.
Hello Crissidoll
from B7 you have a line square down. On that line, from the crotch point you found at point 20. ( C1 to B1 - 0.5 cm)
Drop the back crotch point 0.1 cm per 1cm extra over 10 cm (in the difference between 1/2 hip minus 1/2 waist
For example; waist 72 hip 104
1/2 waist 36 1/2 hip 52
52 - 36 = 16. 16 - 10 = 6. So you would drop 0.6 cm
When the hip is bigger, you usually get a very angle back inseam so it's almost bias and it's stretchy. Usually you don't even notice that the back is shorter when you sew.
Diane
@@DianeDezieltoolfully Thank you so much l was literally just re-viewing some of your content, including this video. You are, for real, my sewing teacher! Forever grateful. 🖤
thank you so much Diane
how are you Diane Deziel 💖please answer me how can I adjust this pattern if I would make it low waist???
Hello Rose,
To make low waist,
-take you pants block and close all your darts (temporary, so pin them)
-put you side seam together, just the top part, (from the waist to about 5 cm down), seam line on seam line.
-trace the lower waist, in a nice continuous line, from center front to center back, keeping 90° for 1 or 2 cm both ends. We usually drop more on the front than in the back, let's say 5 cm front and 3 cm back, because when you sit the waist goes down in the back.
Also, for lower waist, the waist band should be shape.
This is a good video idea.
Diane
@@DianeDezieltoolfully thanks a lot 😘...yes please try to do a video about low waist pants. ..I am eager to watch it.. especially when the teacher is you..you have a nice personality and a nice way of explanation. .I love you
@@DianeDezieltoolfully sorry..what do mean by the waist band should be shape???
Hello Rose,
When the waist band is up from the natural waist, it could be a straight piece, but for low waist, it has to follow the shape of the body that is smaller to bigger towards the hip. So the waist band should be more like the shape of a waist facing or let's say the part that you remove on top of the pants but parallel to the new waist line.
Diane
@@DianeDezieltoolfully thanks a lot. .yes I got it.
What about the waist band for the trouser, i really want to know so please provide me with the vedio torturial
My next one
Diane
Thank you for the tutorial, but I tried this pattern and the hip is way too tight. Looks like you took out of the hip measurement in front to cut out the crotch. Please can you explain better because when I measured after making the pattern, the hip becomes 35inches meanwhile my hip measurement is 37 inches.
Hi Imelda, I did not see your pattern, but is it possible that you subtract the ease instead of adding it? (it's exactly the difference) Diane
Ok, thank you Diane, but I did exactly what you did but measured in inches which is what I'm used to. But I will check again regardless. I watched another UA-cam video where the person starts the crotch at quarter of the hip measurement as against yours which starts 2inches into the quarter of the hip measurement (for my size)... what is your professional opinion regarding this? I'm sorry I'm asking so many questions but Im confused. Thankyou for your reply.
This is exactly d issue I observed while drafting d pattern but hope to adjust it by adding my curve outside rather than taking from inside so it sizes me.
Thank you Diane for sharing.The best pant tutorial video on UA-cam. Can this pattern drafting be used for both male and female?
Hello Benjamin,
yes you could use this recipe for both, the only difference is that for men you don't need the front dart and in the back you need only one dart.
Diane
Thank you for the prompt and detailed reply Diane you are the best...😉
Please what is the difference between the men's trousser block and this video?
Hi Benjamin,
As you must know, in sport wear pants, there is not much difference, since for both we eliminate the darts, but in ladys jeans, there is a bigger difference between the waist and the hip. They now some time manage to transfer part of the back dart into the yoke for curvy woman.
In dressy pants, the main difference is the 2 to 3 darts to have a better fit in lady pants, while in men's pants there is only 1 in the back, since they have, just like kids a small difference between waist and hip.
Also, when you do the men fitting, each one decide where they want there waist to reach (usually bellow the belly), so you end up with lower front to keep the balance. Often, in dressy pants, they also want a little more ease ( 1 to 2 cm ) at the hip level and lower crotch (1 to 3 cm ) for confort.
I hope this could help.
Diane
Very helpful Diane...Thank you
How can we make the front of the pants without darts ?
Hi Despoina, I think the basic pants should be with the darts , (except if your waist is thick, and doing the construction gives you a side seam that is straight or go out).
But after to make a more sport pants or if you have a little stretch in your fabric, you eliminate some, like the front one and the small one in the back.
The reason is that if you eliminate the dart your side seam is going to be too curve, so when I eliminate (those 2 darts) I usually reduce the hip by 5mm back & front.
At the waist, on the back, I go in 1cm on both side, than cancel the small dart.
On the front, I go in 5mm at center front, and 1.5 at side seam.
(I should do a video)
Diane
Ooh that would be fantastic if you can make a video , cause I’m trying make a jumpsuit . 💐
Hello Diane, I watched your video of “Pant Block Pattern” and it’s quite helpful. My problem is that, whenever I stitched a pant for myself it becomes tight from my belly, because I have bit heavy belly. Can you please guide me that, what should I do or how much loosing should I keep? If you need to know my measurements I can forward to you later. Thank you very much. Bye for now!
Hello Safia,
Yes I would like to have your measurements to give you the proper answer, but for now, I could say it's important that your side seam remain straight, so you must had fabric where it's needed, only on the front or all around.
Diane
Diane Deziel - Hello Diane, Thank you for your prompt reply and I’m so happy that you are trying to help me. I’m struggling this problem from a very long time. These are my measurements all in inches:- My pant ready length is 38 inches, hip/belly round is 46 inches, waist round is 40 inches, Thigh round is 24 inches, knee round is 16 inches and pant down round where we hem15 inches. The front crotch is 14 inches and back crotch is 17 inches. (The crotch area I keep long because I use padded underwear). So I hope with your kind guidance I’ll be able to make my straight pant correct. Thank you very much for your kind help. Bye for now!
Hello Diane, As per your request, I have forwarded my pant measurements and waiting for your guidance that how should I draft pattern for my pant. I would appreciate if you could help me in this regard. Thank you very much. Bye!
I did not forgot about you, I was just very busy and I want to do the plan properly, with your measurements, just give me a few more days.
Diane
Oh Dear Diane, Thank you very much for remembering me. Few hours ago I stitched a new pant with different measurements but I failed. Its become very tight from the abdomen (belly). I myself very surprised, that where I'm making a same mistake that my pant gets tight from the belly only. No problem dear Diane take your time and I'll be waiting for your kind guidance. Thanks and Bye for now!
Totally confused from the START how do I know where to put the grain line to begin with?
The grain line is the length you measured (waist to floor -2) and it becomes the centre line.
@@KaidaMizu Ok, so I put it center of the paper. TY!
Thanx Diane for the tutorial, please I beg for your pardon the formulae you use at the back; distance from center front connecting to the crotch then back extension at the waist, is it 1/28 (waist)+2 ?
Hello
Sorry for my big accent, It's 1/20
and you could get the free PDF in my six site Direct link; dianedezie7.wixsite.com/toolfully/free-download
Diane
@@DianeDezieltoolfully Alright thnx
Does there exist a tutorial in U.S. traditional. I do not know the metric system very well.
Wanted to know if the Pant Block Pattern is for both male and female.
Hello Emmanuel,
I would say you could use the technic for both, BUT for men you don't need front dart and the back should have only one dart, most probably the smallest value, place where the big one is.
Diane
Hello, Diane! Can you please tell me what should I do to narrow the bottom of pants?
Hello Pooja
To narrow the pants & keep it balance, you must remove the same amount on both side of both legs. the measurements could be different at the bottom and at the knee, to nothing at hip level.
Diane
Diane Deziel Thank you Diane. So I have to reduce only knee and bottom width. Thank you so much. You are wonderful. Honestly, your channel is the only channel I watch most on youtube. 😃
Diane Deziel Can you please tell me how did you take the measurement of bottom width because when I made pattern, it has really wide bottom, so I think I'm doing some mistake here and if I reduce the width of knee and bottom then angle of side seam and inseam is also changes, which changes the whole pattern. Please explain how do you measure width of bottom. I'm confused. 😶
Brilliant ! Thank you so much !
Hello Diane, what country size 10 is this? i need to make one in european size 38, is this the equivalant?
Hi Lily, it is a lady size 10 from Canada, body measurements: bust 93 cm, waist 69 cm and hip 94 cm. The block construction usually have ease, bust + 2 to 4 cm, waist + 2 cm and hip + 2 to 4cm.
Since every single company or manufacture have there own measure, even different from one style the an other and from one season to an other, and it's also depending on the fabric used like the percentage of elastic fibre, I would say it is in some chart a 36 an in other a 38.
I hope this could help.
Diane
Hi mam thanx for your great information.. can i ask you. This pattern okey with big size and this pattern is the basic pattern which we can make modify it for other models..thanx
Hello Amee,
Yes this is a basic pants block, and you could use this recipe for bigger size BUT most probably to keep a curve side seam on the top part you are going to need to eliminate the front dart and the small dart on the back.
Diane
@@DianeDezieltoolfully thanx alot mam for your fast and helpful reply
Excuse me can i get front crotch width more? 1/20 hip or 1/16 hip
Diane where can I find the pants pattern draft. I have been to you site but could not find it. Please tell me where to find it, please. I love the way you draft them, I want to try your way. Ali Pye
Hi Tony, I move my site to Etsy and all the free PDF to WIX dianedezie7.wixsite.com/toolfully
Diane