I looked up the price for what is essentially an ikea-esque amplifier and the pricing model is absurd. The total cost of components is probably $100 to $200.
I did their preamp kit and it’s been kind of a disappointment. The remote isn’t as universal as they market, and there’s some weird noise issues when changing volume.
@@irktwcI sent it back, they replaced the control board with a newer version, and I have it back. The noise issue is about 50% of what it was (loud popping on volume changes tied directly to the knob clicks) but is still present. The remote issue is that they market it as universal-compatible with a known protocol (Phillips RC-5). My universal remote reads the program just fine but the preamp does not respond to the universal. It also will not respond to a normal repeater. I wanted to control my stereo with one remote and have it stay in a closed cabinet. The preamp does not do that. Is it great when actually listening to music? Yes, it’s 100% transparent. Is it great from a practical standpoint? Not so much. It was $1,300 and I would not do it again if given the opportunity.
@@Metalwolf765 have you tried grounding your source chassis to the presmp chassis? Or the amp(s) chassis to the presmp chassis? You can just test by touching a wire to each, as long as you connect to bare, non-anodized metal. One or the other such links tend to solve most ground loops that are noticeable. For a longer term solution just back out a screw on each, wrap the wire around it, re-tighten until it’s strong. Lemme nough….😃
@@samuellord8576 I don’t think it’s a ground loop, I use XLRs. Besides, it happens on both inputs. One of those is a turntable with separate ground. If anything was going to cause an issue it’d be that. The problem, I think, has more to do with the volume knob/control board. I think my amplifiers pick up the on/off between the clicks of the knob as DC offset. They did not publish how the volume is controlled, and I think it may be relay-based stepped attenuation. The relays or switching seem to be causing dc offset pops as they come in and out.
I may be an idiot in this realm as I have spent 30 years in the Car Audio industry. Class D amplifiers have been a standard for years and I have incorporated them with proper power supplies running an array of drivers. The class D amplifiers I have used for my application make this look inferior, as well as low ohm load capabilities and power output. I am, of course, only using these for subwoofer drivers. Anyway, cool and thanks for the info.
Thank you for the effort putting this video together.
Great job! I easy enjoyed the video! I can’t wait to see what you do next!
Thanks for the review! Much appreciated!
What's the cost?
I looked up the price for what is essentially an ikea-esque amplifier and the pricing model is absurd. The total cost of components is probably $100 to $200.
Are you referring to their manufacturer parts cost? Where can you find any of these parts close to that cost?
@@DIYhyfygo to any parts supplier website. Circuit board, capacitors and transistors, resistors and wire. Seriously.
Nice video. Keep up the good work.
I did their preamp kit and it’s been kind of a disappointment. The remote isn’t as universal as they market, and there’s some weird noise issues when changing volume.
Sorry to hear that. Hopefully they can resolve your issues.
Solve the problem instead off…..
@@irktwcI sent it back, they replaced the control board with a newer version, and I have it back. The noise issue is about 50% of what it was (loud popping on volume changes tied directly to the knob clicks) but is still present.
The remote issue is that they market it as universal-compatible with a known protocol (Phillips RC-5). My universal remote reads the program just fine but the preamp does not respond to the universal. It also will not respond to a normal repeater.
I wanted to control my stereo with one remote and have it stay in a closed cabinet. The preamp does not do that.
Is it great when actually listening to music? Yes, it’s 100% transparent. Is it great from a practical standpoint? Not so much.
It was $1,300 and I would not do it again if given the opportunity.
@@Metalwolf765 have you tried grounding your source chassis to the presmp chassis? Or the amp(s) chassis to the presmp chassis? You can just test by touching a wire to each, as long as you connect to bare, non-anodized metal. One or the other such links tend to solve most ground loops that are noticeable. For a longer term solution just back out a screw on each, wrap the wire around it, re-tighten until it’s strong. Lemme nough….😃
@@samuellord8576 I don’t think it’s a ground loop, I use XLRs. Besides, it happens on both inputs. One of those is a turntable with separate ground. If anything was going to cause an issue it’d be that.
The problem, I think, has more to do with the volume knob/control board. I think my amplifiers pick up the on/off between the clicks of the knob as DC offset.
They did not publish how the volume is controlled, and I think it may be relay-based stepped attenuation. The relays or switching seem to be causing dc offset pops as they come in and out.
Darn Straight Forward!!!! ⏩⏩ I like it
While cool, it seems more expensive than Buckeye Amps, but he's in America. It's good to have options though. I like their DIY PreDIGin add-on option.
Buckeye make really good amps, from what I hear.
Looks nice. More of a "assembly required" than a DIY, but neat either way.
I may be an idiot in this realm as I have spent 30 years in the Car Audio industry. Class D amplifiers have been a standard for years and I have incorporated them with proper power supplies running an array of drivers. The class D amplifiers I have used for my application make this look inferior, as well as low ohm load capabilities and power output. I am, of course, only using these for subwoofer drivers. Anyway, cool and thanks for the info.
Spends a grand on an amplifier kit. Tightens the nuts on the inside of the speaker binding posts with a pair of pliers. 🤦🏻♂️
Can I borrow your socket set please 🙏
this case can be easy twice smaller why is so big brick
Hi, to ensure it is the same size as our Pre-Amp.
The PS is too small, the modules cannot develop their full power. This is a waste of very good modules by current starvation.
What's the digital signal has been passed through a deck and then into a class d it's just going into a garbage can
Class d objectively measure well and almost all modern music is being mixed and mastered with class d amps
ignorance on full display
Play some class d in the same sentence with high end amplifiers is an oxymoron
LOL no that's probably just you bud
Your specs are pseudoscience
Pseudoscience? Guess I should review Bigfoot next? Ghosts? Let me know what you'd like to see!