Hi, amazing videos. I'm having a bespoke suit made and I'm trying to get my tailor to make it a Neapolitan silhouette but he doesn't seem to quite get there. As far as I can see, the key part is the shoulder line, Neapolitan suits seem to have a very pronounced crescent line ending in a very soft sleevehead, either con rollino or spalla camicia. The other thing that seems to determine the silhouette is the chest area, Neapolitan suits seem to follow the natural chest line looking almost like knitwear, while other jackets tend to have drape there and it looks much more formal, as if there's hollow air underneath. Obviously there are other elements ranging from wider lapels, pronounced lapel roll, barchetta chest pocket to patch pockets but how hard is it for a technically competent tailor to mimick the Neapolitan silhouette?
@@silviochan89 thank you. In my experience, I'm better off with a good off the rack suit than a bespoke one, I look great in ready to wear Canali jackets, with minor alterations it'd be perfect, and Casa del Sarto jackets look great in photos too, why should I even bother with bespoke? I can't go to Napoli to have my suits made so I tried three different bespoke local tailors spending 3x what I'd pay for off the rack Canali and no one seems to be able to create a jacket with a soul, I can't say they're not trying, the latest tailor prepared 3 different fitting jackets for me to try, but the look just doesn't quite come together the way your jackets do with a certain flow, softness and casualness to them, they somehow look stiff and formal. Do you think it's even possible to make a jacket Neapolitan style without training under a Neapolitan tailor?
I am glad there is people watching my video from Luanda, I will keep on to make more video to share my experience in bespoke tailoring to the world , today is Luna new year in HongKong, Happy new year to you and your family.
Good day. Well done Sir. Your sleeve head measures 3.7cm on one side and 5cm on the other side. Please which side fall on the back and which side fall on the front? Thanks.
Good day Sir. Please after stitching sleeve to armhole, we stitch shoulder pad and sleeve head. Please are we stitching them on the same seam line. Thanks.
Good question , the seam allowance of armhole for the final garment is 0.8 cm, shoulder pad stitch on the canvas only ( not the armhole ) , sleeve head hand stitch 0.6 cm seam allowance on the armhole ( must less than 0.8 cm ) , and then machine stitch 0.8 cm seam allowance for the final garment , after machine stitching, the hand stitch of sleeve head will be remove away, other basting stitches are allowed to stay on the armhole. , so sleeve head and sleeve are not stitched on the same line.
![Tips for attaching suit sleeves | How to sew a suit sleeve? | #how #sewing #suit #tutorial [PART4]](/img/n.gif)
Que lindo video ! Gracias Sr Silvio Chan
Thank you for watching
I am learning a lot from this video, thank you
@@Lornanduyanmy pleasure
Fantastic, learned a lot from this video
@@KalekeniPeter my pleasure
Hi, amazing videos. I'm having a bespoke suit made and I'm trying to get my tailor to make it a Neapolitan silhouette but he doesn't seem to quite get there. As far as I can see, the key part is the shoulder line, Neapolitan suits seem to have a very pronounced crescent line ending in a very soft sleevehead, either con rollino or spalla camicia. The other thing that seems to determine the silhouette is the chest area, Neapolitan suits seem to follow the natural chest line looking almost like knitwear, while other jackets tend to have drape there and it looks much more formal, as if there's hollow air underneath. Obviously there are other elements ranging from wider lapels, pronounced lapel roll, barchetta chest pocket to patch pockets but how hard is it for a technically competent tailor to mimick the Neapolitan silhouette?
You know a lots in mens tailoring, hope one day you will your ideal tailor to made your dream suits, have a good day and thank you for watching.
@@silviochan89 thank you. In my experience, I'm better off with a good off the rack suit than a bespoke one, I look great in ready to wear Canali jackets, with minor alterations it'd be perfect, and Casa del Sarto jackets look great in photos too, why should I even bother with bespoke? I can't go to Napoli to have my suits made so I tried three different bespoke local tailors spending 3x what I'd pay for off the rack Canali and no one seems to be able to create a jacket with a soul, I can't say they're not trying, the latest tailor prepared 3 different fitting jackets for me to try, but the look just doesn't quite come together the way your jackets do with a certain flow, softness and casualness to them, they somehow look stiff and formal. Do you think it's even possible to make a jacket Neapolitan style without training under a Neapolitan tailor?
Eu sou Angolano e vivo em Luanda, gostei muito dos vossos videos, quero muito aprender com vocês,e conversar com vocês, obrigado.
I am glad there is people watching my video from Luanda, I will keep on to make more video to share my experience in bespoke tailoring to the world , today is Luna new year in HongKong, Happy new year to you and your family.
A me la manica tipo uomo fa difetto sotto l' ascella dietro,cosa fare
SO HELPFUL - I make historical suits and the western videos all use shop-bought parts, I want to make the parts as would a tailor 100 years ago...
Thank you for watching, and I am glad the video it helps
@@silviochan89 - Many of your videos have been very helpful - thank you. I am sure you will get many more subscribers!
Yes, I’m learning ladies tailoring and to make softer parts, they often need to be made up. These help so much. Thank you!
@@mcomeslast thank you for watching, I hope in the future I can make video focus on womenswear
Agreed. I wanted to see how the sleeve head was made and this did not disappoint.
Good day. Well done Sir. Your sleeve head measures 3.7cm on one side and 5cm on the other side. Please which side fall on the back and which side fall on the front? Thanks.
Usually the front sleeve head is longer than the back sleeve head, I am happy with the result, so in my case 5 cm is front , 3.7 cm is back,
Thank you for watching
É uma arte. Parabéns!
you are the best teacher🙏🙏
my pleasure
Good day Sir. Please after stitching sleeve to armhole, we stitch shoulder pad and sleeve head. Please are we stitching them on the same seam line. Thanks.
Good question , the seam allowance of armhole for the final garment is 0.8 cm, shoulder pad stitch on the canvas only ( not the armhole ) , sleeve head hand stitch 0.6 cm seam allowance on the armhole ( must less than 0.8 cm ) , and then machine stitch 0.8 cm seam allowance for the final garment , after machine stitching, the hand stitch of sleeve head will be remove away, other basting stitches are allowed to stay on the armhole. , so sleeve head and sleeve are not stitched on the same line.
Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge with us do you give personal classes ??
Have a great day from Canada
Sorry, I do not give personal classes, thank you for being interested in my channel, have a nice day
Very nice 😊
Thank you for watching
Very nice
Thank you for watching
Very good sir. Please continue prabhakar India
thank you for watching, in fact the jacket have not been finished
شرح رائع
❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤
Thank you for watching
Great work but you could do with some proper left handed shears!
Gostei muito,e quero aprender muito mais,
I am glad you like my video , thank you .
شكرا شكرا
Cutting training
🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏💋💋💋💋💋💋💋💋💋💋
Thank you for watching
Muraa kotii tartibaa saa