35040 R/C Receiver Direct Installation
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- Опубліковано 26 лип 2024
- PIKO America gives you the newest products from PIKO... www.piko-america.com/
In this video, Dan will walk you through the installation of a PIKO 35040 R/C Receiver into a PIKO loco. This installation is known as a direct installation because the PCB is completely replaced by the 35040 R/C Receiver board. (It's even easier to do a parallel installation of a 35040 R/C Receiver, however if you plan on using analog sound as well you might want the extra space created from the direct install.)
This video shows you how to open the tender, remove the factory wiring and completely install the PIKO 35040 R/C Receiver - including where to mount a heat sink. (The heat sink we used is over-sized but readily available online for a low price. Remember that to avoid shorting with a heat sink, you must be sure to put insulation between the bottom of the rectifier board and the metal of the heat sink.)
After the installation, Dan shows how to test and run your new R/C controlled PIKO loco. We hope you enjoy your PIKO Trains!
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Good vid! I'd be interested in seeing some instructions on how to do a battery power conversion.
Same here!
Looks like an easy installation and would be fun to have some control options while operating your train.
Thanks for watching and thanks for the comment. (Hopefully we will find time to show folks how to do the parallel installation, which is even easier!)
When doing this install as shown, if the locomotive has interior lights how does that function? Do they go out when switching from forward to reverse and visa versa?
How do connect this to locomotive with two engines.? there only room for one.
battery install tutorial please!
Boogeyman... In general, a battery installation would go much like this one. The difference is you would switch the green rectifier board to input B - where your battery power would likely come from - and then you would need to find a place to install your battery system.
How to video when u have analog sound board please.
@boogeymanDracula... we just posted the Analog Sound Install video. (See this link... ua-cam.com/video/xev_s9ZqnfE/v-deo.html&lc=UgxdJ8A5X6U4bUnBuol4AaABAg)
What is happening if the loco keeps stopping on battery power ? I have two locos on battery power and they stop after a few seconds. Is it wifi signal interfering with the Piko remote ?
Paul, please contact us at support@piko-america.com for questions. That is the place for tips or questions regarding your specific battery system and we usually respond within a day, most often faster. In general, Wi-Fi signals should not interfere with the R/C signals we use.
May be a stupid question - but the subtitle says "To avoid shorting, make sure to put insulation between the bottom of the rectifier board and the metal heat sink." But in the video it says ensure good contact between the 4 black squares and the heat sink. How do I ensure good contact while putting insulation between them? I'm new to this, but to me they sound contradictory. Also what type of material should be used to provide the insulation?
@Cory Wilson, We understand how this could seem like contradictory information. The four squares/rectangles take heat away from the circuit board. The other pins on the board, or the heatsink itself, have some metal in them. So they should not touch elements that carry current on PC boards.
Kapton tape is well-known as an insulating material. Electrical tape could also do if you don't have Kapton tape.
@@PIKOAmerica Wow - that was a FAST response! THANK YOU! So to make sure I'm understanding correctly (sorry again for the noob question) - I need to insulate metal-to-metal contact between the board (solder points) and the heat-sink, but allow direct contact between the four squares/rectangles to the heat-sink, correct?
I'll look to see if I can pick up some Kapton tape... maybe Eric has some I can borrow. I ordered two of the 35040 remote/receivers today, that I hope to use in some scratch-built locos. I have one of your small r/c diesel switchers and love the behavior of the radio/receiver!
@@corywilson4550 That is correct. The four square points are for heat exchange/diffusion. Anything else should be insulated.
Have fun!
@@PIKOAmerica Thanks again for your answer. I'm working on a scratch-build, and I'm very new to this. If I want to use LED lights, is there a specific voltage that I need to look for? For example, if I plan to use 14.4V battery power (2 7.7v in series), would I need to choose LEDs that accept higher than 14.4V DC, or does the board somehow control the forward voltage to a certain level? Also - regarding the lighting - are there any wiring diagrams showing how, for example, a simple two-lead LED light should be wired to the board? (Again I apologize as I know these are very basic questions, just trying to learn without burning anything up!) Thanks everyone!
@@corywilson4550 Cory, just in case questions like this are best sent via email. (support@piko-america.com) We respond to email much faster usually! :)
The 35040 receiver outputs more-or-less the input voltage to the light outputs. All our locos have resistors in series in one lead to the LED. LEDs only operate on 2-3V, so you will need a resistor. You will probably want to calculate the value yourself based on whatever lights you are using.
What battery should i use? I considered multiple Options but i cant decide
Hi @RommyArts... questions like this are usually better via email or the phone. You can easily contact us at support@piko-america.com anytime.
The challenge for us to answer is that the battery you use is really up to you. Some folks use 14V R/C car-type batteries, others use AA or AAA's with battery housings... but there are more options depending on what you want.
Thats fine for just one loco, but can i use it for more than one? Wont the signals of different locos interfere?
@RommyArts, This system was designed so it is completely flexible and eight R/C channels are built into the 35040 board and the remote! You can install a 35040 in every loco and control them from the R/C remote with matching channels, or different ones. Multiple locos can have the same R/C channel for a double or triple consist - or with distributed power! You can also have a second channel for another loco or consist. You can have a third channel for more options like a switching line. The eight channels give you nearly endless possibilities from one simple system!
@@PIKOAmerica and how do i bind a second receiver to the controller?
@@shmeerlubs5506 The instructions show you where the radio channel frequencies can be changed. It is a circular dial that can move from 0-7, giving you 8 channels to choose from.
In my loco there are 2 cables coming from the front and back light each. How should I connect them?
@RommyArts, please contact our support line via phone or email. The email address is support@piko-america.com. This wiring question is covered in the manual, and the support folks can respond to your specific question to better assist you.
Will there be problems if the shell is metal?
Robert, if you have locos with metal shells just make sure all electronics are properly insulated so no electrical contact is made with the shell.
@@danpikoamerica7314 So the metal will not interfere with signal?
Good vid! I'd be interested in seeing some instructions on how to do a battery power conversion.